as someone who has just brought a blown up banshee and knows nothing im glad your here to help with this shit. keep up with the good work man love your stuff
Just want to say, love your videos man!! Bought my 1st banshee, 89! but no engine, radiator and wiring harness, everything else is there. It’s a budget build but with your videos, I feel confident to build my own engine-obtaining lost cost parts from different vendors. It’s just so hard finding a descent priced engine out here in SoCal. Thanks again for all your nicely done, detailed videos!!!
Polish them cylinders man! And paint your case halves. Wanted to do a 4 mil so bad on mine but when my piston blew apart my crank was fine and a fresh bore was all I needed so I went back stock. Turns out I’m glad I did cause a stock motor with pipes is all you need for xc racing to holeshot 450’s and to not rip your arms off during 2 hour long races.
Oh forgot about the pipes question. Ditch the FMF’s I did and went with T6’s but my porting and displacement is stock. I’ve heard great things about SLP pipes being great pipes for ported motors for trails.
"the more coolant the cooler the head should be" I agree to some extent, however the less coolant in the head at once = a higher flow of coolant through the radiator so it is similar and kind of balances out.
Honestly I would just grab the SLP pipes only because you know you're going to do it anyway so you might as well clean those FMF pipes up try to sell them get some money back on it and just prevent any headaches later on. Plus, once the purchase is made. That's one less purchase you have to worry about down the road. Like I said you're going to do it anyway so you might as well just get it over and done with and maybe you'll get lucky and get a few dollars back on the FMF pipes. I'd go with what the company recommends. That'll be less jetting headaches down the road as well
@@MichaelSabo hell yeah man I just did the same thing with my dirt bike my pipe was bent I looked around for a little bit for someone who may be able to fix it but I ended up just going with an FMF gnarly pipe cuz it would have cost me the same and I knew I was going to do it eventually. And I'm having the same problem now because my motor just started leaking coolant between the bottom end and the cylinder. So instead of risking a problem I'm probably just going to go ahead and buy a complete rebuild kit for it because I know I'm going to do it eventually anyway and in the end God willing I'll save some money by going all out and doing it right the first time. Just my opinion but that's what I would do. Cool videos man I appreciate the response back
i was considering drivelines 421 kit as well, but im thinking about ordering driveline performance 392 big bore, i want the 392 because i can still run the stock length rods without going 4 mill and spending the extra cash. They clame 68+ hp on stock carbs. Im going with 28mm. also getting new cases from F.a.s.t racing. super pumped to start build.
F.A.S.T and driveline are great. I was really close to doing the 392 kit also; I haven't run it but I think you'll be happy with it. Good luck on your build man!
@@MichaelSabo for sure 👍🏼 I would like to go with the 421 but am going with the 392 to try and save a little. Plan to be doing a ground up build with all oem plastics, graphics, ect. But with a built motor. Thanks for the luck, sure ill need it 👍🏼
Random question, is the SUV in the background your daily driver? I'm asking because I also built a monster toy but daily a bone stock plain 95 civic. I always find it funny when our dailys are totally different than our toys. Really loved this build, I built an 01 ZX9R that made 265 at the back wheel, its my baby. Muzzy 1099 BB kit, Darton liners pressed in, forged eagle h beam rods, zxzone 270 cams, massive keihin CVK40's with 220 mains. I know what its like to build a carbed monster, thats why I dig this!
Dude that ZX9R sounds outrageous; I had a 1000RR with about 185 and I could never imagine wanting more lol. At the time of this build I believe my daily was a C5 corvette that I had done some work to but I sold that to invest into my business and have not had a daily that matches my need for speed since 😂
Damn 600 for a complet set of pipe is a good deal ! U can get probably get a goof 200-250 for these fmf so you should 100% do it !! Kinda makes me want a 421 now haha
You definetely need big bore pipes! She will run butnim betting she will be lean and you will loose ALOT of power because the motor wont breathe optimally. I wound up finding an old school set of rocket pipes (r1 to be specific) for my 472 build that should let her breathe.
By the new ones sell those ones Make sure when you are selling them that they are cleaned up and looking party Might be able to sell them if they're clean for 300 So in reality you only spends 200 bucks for the new pipes
Awesome video cool to see more 2 stroke builds popping up do you have plans to dyno after the build is over? one more question is your dad from boston and your mom from minnesota? you pronounce some stuff real weird
As often as your compression deems necessary. My banshee ran an entire XC race season (2 hour long woods races about 9-10 of them) and is still cherry on compression for another season. If your jetting is good and you don’t run shitty oil your top end can last a long time on a two stroke.
I bought my banshee 1 year and a half and the motor was rebuild for the first time 4-5 years ago ! And iv beat the shit out of it its really reliable.Ill rebuild it this winter compression is around 100-105 but still start after 2 kicks
I don’t understand why both the intake and exhaust ports are on the cylinder of the banshee. I thought that 2 strokes had the exhaust port on the cylinder and the intake on the case? And won’t the bottom end not get lubricated because the intake is not run thru the case? Please someone clarify this for me.
John22724 my kdx200 is the same. The intake is at the bottom of the cylinder, the mixture still feeds into the crankcase. It’s just in the way the ports are arranged.
Don't run the FMF pipes, get new ones and jet accordingly once only. The FMFs won't breath enough for your big bore build
as someone who has just brought a blown up banshee and knows nothing im glad your here to help with this shit. keep up with the good work man love your stuff
Austin Meyer look up south Texas banshee on YT his videos are very in depth!!
Just want to say, love your videos man!! Bought my 1st banshee, 89! but no engine, radiator and wiring harness, everything else is there. It’s a budget build but with your videos, I feel confident to build my own engine-obtaining lost cost parts from different vendors. It’s just so hard finding a descent priced engine out here in SoCal. Thanks again for all your nicely done, detailed videos!!!
The chariot head is the best , ive had it for years with no issues
Polish them cylinders man! And paint your case halves. Wanted to do a 4 mil so bad on mine but when my piston blew apart my crank was fine and a fresh bore was all I needed so I went back stock. Turns out I’m glad I did cause a stock motor with pipes is all you need for xc racing to holeshot 450’s and to not rip your arms off during 2 hour long races.
Oh forgot about the pipes question. Ditch the FMF’s I did and went with T6’s but my porting and displacement is stock. I’ve heard great things about SLP pipes being great pipes for ported motors for trails.
"the more coolant the cooler the head should be" I agree to some extent, however the less coolant in the head at once = a higher flow of coolant through the radiator so it is similar and kind of balances out.
Honestly I would just grab the SLP pipes only because you know you're going to do it anyway so you might as well clean those FMF pipes up try to sell them get some money back on it and just prevent any headaches later on. Plus, once the purchase is made. That's one less purchase you have to worry about down the road. Like I said you're going to do it anyway so you might as well just get it over and done with and maybe you'll get lucky and get a few dollars back on the FMF pipes. I'd go with what the company recommends. That'll be less jetting headaches down the road as well
This is good advice... thank you; I may just go ahead and buy the pipes.
@@MichaelSabo hell yeah man I just did the same thing with my dirt bike my pipe was bent I looked around for a little bit for someone who may be able to fix it but I ended up just going with an FMF gnarly pipe cuz it would have cost me the same and I knew I was going to do it eventually. And I'm having the same problem now because my motor just started leaking coolant between the bottom end and the cylinder. So instead of risking a problem I'm probably just going to go ahead and buy a complete rebuild kit for it because I know I'm going to do it eventually anyway and in the end God willing I'll save some money by going all out and doing it right the first time. Just my opinion but that's what I would do. Cool videos man I appreciate the response back
Your a pure Genius
i was considering drivelines 421 kit as well, but im thinking about ordering driveline performance 392 big bore, i want the 392 because i can still run the stock length rods without going 4 mill and spending the extra cash. They clame 68+ hp on stock carbs. Im going with 28mm. also getting new cases from F.a.s.t racing. super pumped to start build.
F.A.S.T and driveline are great. I was really close to doing the 392 kit also; I haven't run it but I think you'll be happy with it. Good luck on your build man!
@@MichaelSabo for sure 👍🏼
I would like to go with the 421 but am going with the 392 to try and save a little. Plan to be doing a ground up build with all oem plastics, graphics, ect. But with a built motor. Thanks for the luck, sure ill need it 👍🏼
Random question, is the SUV in the background your daily driver? I'm asking because I also built a monster toy but daily a bone stock plain 95 civic. I always find it funny when our dailys are totally different than our toys. Really loved this build, I built an 01 ZX9R that made 265 at the back wheel, its my baby. Muzzy 1099 BB kit, Darton liners pressed in, forged eagle h beam rods, zxzone 270 cams, massive keihin CVK40's with 220 mains. I know what its like to build a carbed monster, thats why I dig this!
Dude that ZX9R sounds outrageous; I had a 1000RR with about 185 and I could never imagine wanting more lol. At the time of this build I believe my daily was a C5 corvette that I had done some work to but I sold that to invest into my business and have not had a daily that matches my need for speed since 😂
Can't wait to see her all cleaned up and running again
Heck yea cant wait for this to be done
Good stuff Michael can't wait to hear that ATV start up again.
Get the new pipes!!!! Can’t wait till it’s done
Clean and paint the pipes, if u decide to buy new, get toomey t5
Awesome Mike《☆》Ya just get the pipes specific to Your build so You don't spend too much :*:Time & Money:*: jetting 🎅👍
Watched the whole vid im excited to see the bottom end break down
Damn 600 for a complet set of pipe is a good deal ! U can get probably get a goof 200-250 for these fmf so you should 100% do it !! Kinda makes me want a 421 now haha
This would sound super sick with some DMC 916
I like your cooling heads more. My 280 drag toy has red instead of polished and the bottom casings are polished.
You definetely need big bore pipes! She will run butnim betting she will be lean and you will loose ALOT of power because the motor wont breathe optimally. I wound up finding an old school set of rocket pipes (r1 to be specific) for my 472 build that should let her breathe.
Sell the pipes and boost bottle, go SLP your already doing an awesome build might as well keep up with decent performing pipes
Build a Yamaha warrior 35O next
Get the slp pipes please.. Love your video's keep up the great work..
Gonna be so sick!!!!
Love your videos
You should definitely clean the outside off the motor before starting the desasenbly
go with cpi or shearers for the pipes and spend the extra money it would be worth it
joseph goodrich 🤠
Cpi is only good for hp so not the best for trails.. dont know much about shearer i think he should buy paul turner high rev or maybe pro circuit
Go with SLP's man. Good pipes!
wut size socket is for that nut that holds front sprocket?
By the new ones sell those ones Make sure when you are selling them that they are cleaned up and looking party Might be able to sell them if they're clean for 300 So in reality you only spends 200 bucks for the new pipes
run Dmc Aliens or 916's there badass!!!!!
Clean up the fmf and sell them an try the Paul Turner pipes
Great video!👌
Mxrider2stroke Braaap ayyy bro👊🏻🤙🏼
You should run Toomey T5 pipes or T6
Is use wut have instead of spending the $600
Awesome video cool to see more 2 stroke builds popping up do you have plans to dyno after the build is over?
one more question is your dad from boston and your mom from minnesota? you pronounce some stuff real weird
Lmao 😂 Both are from Philly. If I can find someone local to dino, that's something I would consider!
@@MichaelSabo it would be awesome to see the numbers in the low end
I say run the pipes till you can sell them and upgrade. Please clean them though haha.
How often shoud you rebuild a two stroke
After every ride
As often as your compression deems necessary. My banshee ran an entire XC race season (2 hour long woods races about 9-10 of them) and is still cherry on compression for another season. If your jetting is good and you don’t run shitty oil your top end can last a long time on a two stroke.
Not so sure depends what you’re running
I’d like, after every kick if possible
I’m on my sixth year same top end
I bought my banshee 1 year and a half and the motor was rebuild for the first time 4-5 years ago ! And iv beat the shit out of it its really reliable.Ill rebuild it this winter compression is around 100-105 but still start after 2 kicks
What stage ports?
Stage 1?
I don’t understand why both the intake and exhaust ports are on the cylinder of the banshee. I thought that 2 strokes had the exhaust port on the cylinder and the intake on the case? And won’t the bottom end not get lubricated because the intake is not run thru the case? Please someone clarify this for me.
John22724 my kdx200 is the same. The intake is at the bottom of the cylinder, the mixture still feeds into the crankcase. It’s just in the way the ports are arranged.
Dirt Moto ok thanks for the clarification
You should get a Polaris predator 500 them are nice
"Bok, I dont know why"... Twice is my limit, I do know why.
Get cpi or shearer
RUN CPI PIPES
Awese job! This thing will be brappin in no time!!!
Second
Idk if it's too late, but don't knife edge the divider! It's bad practice. If you find a engine porter doing that, run away.
Get some toomey 5’s
Salinas Racing831 do you have Toomey 5’s if so how are they because I’m thinking of gettin ones
Really overrated pipes... t5 has about more 1-2 hp than fmf but 2 3 less tq they just sound really good
I think he will be doing trails so he shoud get something with more torque like paul turner high rev pro circuit
Sell the old ones and get the new ones
Sell the fmf fattys and get the ones driveline recommends
First
If you talked less you could do more work👍
Please gift me your old parts