When you send shop air (around 120psi) through the fitting, the air rushes by (not into) a hole to the cooling system, the faster moving air has lower pressure than the air inside the car's cooling system, so the air in the system is drawn to the lower pressure "outside" of the system.
great video, thx. I have a Boxster leaking in 2 places, but could not find the locations. Purchased the tool (pricey but worth it) .Since it only do a test when all the coolant is out of the system to confirm leaks, I modified the tool to be used as a pressure tool by replacing the gauge from vacuum gauge to pressure gauge, and put in about 15 psi (by opening the valve body lever till it hit 15 psi) in the system. Worked like a charm and confirmed the location of the leaks. Thanks for video again, great job.
+Jamal Abbas Excellent! I like that modification! I Wish I had done that for my LR3. For me it did work as leak test with coolant in system in original configuration. It did not help locate because it sucks and not pushes, but it did confirm the leak... I figured it out the leak location when the water pump bearing started screaming at me a few days after the leak test.
you can either replace the vacuum gauge with a pressure gauge to put pressure in the system rather than vacuum and that will locate any leak you have (its best used with coolant in system, and I have done it with max 15 psi of pressure in system). you do need to plug the tube to direct the air into the system. Or buy a pressure tester ( which would be a waste of money IMHO, since you can used the tool to do both.
Thank you for the response. I don't how to remove the vacuum gauge from Airlift and spec for pressure gauge to buy, please post a video to youtube if you can.
There is no hose or tube that needs top be pinched on the Boxster to draw the vacuum on the coolant system. As I understand it, the cap acts as the overflow protection on the Boxster.
yes and no, if you have trapped air in a system that is essentially full, it will not pull out that air. if you are filing an empty system, you will have no air gaps using this tool.
Was this system completely empty if coolant or emptied prior to this. What if you drain the coolant and there is coolant left over in the motor or pipe ?
Did you drain the coolant first? I have problem allocating the engine block plug from my 2004 MB E320. I wonder whether I could use the uview to suck coolant out when I do the vacuum?
From what I understand from the UVIEW's documentation is that the UVIEW 55000 (or any other venturi style system) is not really designed to "suck" out the coolant. What I have heard of is this to get coolant out of the engine block.... Drain via the radiator pet cock, hook up the UVIEW 55000, pull a vacuum for a few seconds, then drain again via the radiator pet cock.
Thank you for posting this vid, just made my purchase a lot more solid. One question, can I use this to evacuate the old fluid out of the cooling system first? Then refill with new fluids?
Oscar Diaz I don't know the answer to that for sure, but I think in theory it could be done. You'd need a compressor that could handle the cfm for a full suck out.
Mmmm. attach to radiator, or to reservoir? My choice? Which is better? On a Tundra 5.7. I couldn't fine an adapter to fit the small radiator inlet. It didn't work on the reservoir. Short story, it didn't work for me.
I order uview and got to the point I had 25psi on the gauge. But the gauge did not hold the 25psi. It started to drop to zero slowly. I could hear noise of water/coolant and bubbles. Not sure at this point where the air is coming in. I did close the bleed valve. Any thoughts what I should do next ?
I'm not sure how effective the airlift would be in a partially filled Boxster coolant system. On my Land Rover, it seemed that it didn't do a very good job of pulling the air out in a partially filled system which is not near as complex as the Boxster. Depending on the situation and age of coolant, I would lean towards a full refill. The engine drain plug will get the job done. I don't know the size, when I drained my coolant last because a bad waterpump, I cut the hoses and replaced them.
Thank you for quick response. Draining from the engine and removing the hose clams under the engine is not too hard. Pull the vehicle on the ramp and get the job done. But draining the radiator is kind of hard. Because we need to remove the front bumper etc.. I have no idea what the bleeder does.
If the car is level, that drain plug is the lowest point in the system. There is no need to open up the radiators if you elevate the car evenly. The bleeder valve is used when you do the coolant refill the hard way.
so , can a person use an air compressor at home to make the unit work and if so how to hook up the compressor end ...?Once hooked up , do you just let the compressor run and if so , at what psi ?
Home shop grade air compressor with normal psi settings (max 120) works perfect (that is what is used in this video) at 1:08 you can see where I plug in the air hose, let it run and draw down to 25 inches of vacuum on the uview airlift gauge.
Thank you for the video. Just picked this up and performed coolant refill on my Scud. Easy to follow and almost even easier to do.
Thanks for the demo. This tool is magical. Also, thank you for putting the camera down. I was getting seasick there, for a second.
***** It is an good tool, high quality. I'd never do cooling system work on a Boxster without it.
When you send shop air (around 120psi) through the fitting, the air rushes by (not into) a hole to the cooling system, the faster moving air has lower pressure than the air inside the car's cooling system, so the air in the system is drawn to the lower pressure "outside" of the system.
Is there an overflow hose off of the coolant tank that needs to be pinched during the process?
great video, thx. I have a Boxster leaking in 2 places, but could not find the locations. Purchased the tool (pricey but worth it) .Since it only do a test when all the coolant is out of the system to confirm leaks, I modified the tool to be used as a pressure tool by replacing the gauge from vacuum gauge to pressure gauge, and put in about 15 psi (by opening the valve body lever till it hit 15 psi) in the system. Worked like a charm and confirmed the location of the leaks. Thanks for video again, great job.
+Jamal Abbas Excellent! I like that modification! I Wish I had done that for my LR3. For me it did work as leak test with coolant in system in original configuration. It did not help locate because it sucks and not pushes, but it did confirm the leak... I figured it out the leak location when the water pump bearing started screaming at me a few days after the leak test.
+ZipZapDIY without your video, I would have ended up buying only a pressure test tool, but now I have 2 in 1 tool. Thank you again for the video.
could you give some tips how you figured where the leaks were ? I have similar problem the gauge is not holding the vacuum at 25psi.
you can either replace the vacuum gauge with a pressure gauge to put pressure in the system rather than vacuum and that will locate any leak you have (its best used with coolant in system, and I have done it with max 15 psi of pressure in system). you do need to plug the tube to direct the air into the system. Or buy a pressure tester ( which would be a waste of money IMHO, since you can used the tool to do both.
Thank you for the response. I don't how to remove the vacuum gauge from Airlift and spec for pressure gauge to buy, please post a video to youtube if you can.
There is no hose or tube that needs top be pinched on the Boxster to draw the vacuum on the coolant system. As I understand it, the cap acts as the overflow protection on the Boxster.
Thank you! Will be using it today. Your video was very helpful.
is this good for removing any trapped air in the cooling system?
yes and no, if you have trapped air in a system that is essentially full, it will not pull out that air. if you are filing an empty system, you will have no air gaps using this tool.
Can we use it to suck all the old coolant out?
Was this system completely empty if coolant or emptied prior to this.
What if you drain the coolant and there is coolant left over in the motor or pipe ?
yes, this system was completely empty. I have used the airlift on a partially empty system at about 75% full and it works just as well.
Does the cooling system have to be empty? Or will that vacuum draw out the old coolant as well?
as far as I know, it is not suitable for drawing out the coolant.
Yup, just tried and nothing came out.
Did you drain the coolant first?
I have problem allocating the engine block plug from my 2004 MB E320. I wonder whether I could use the uview to suck coolant out when I do the vacuum?
From what I understand from the UVIEW's documentation is that the UVIEW 55000 (or any other venturi style system) is not really designed to "suck" out the coolant. What I have heard of is this to get coolant out of the engine block.... Drain via the radiator pet cock, hook up the UVIEW 55000, pull a vacuum for a few seconds, then drain again via the radiator pet cock.
Can I use any air compressor, I have a young heng air compressor 4500 psi. Would that work ?
Thank you for posting this vid, just made my purchase a lot more solid.
One question, can I use this to evacuate the old fluid out of the cooling system first? Then refill with new fluids?
it cannot remove the old fluid
doesn't lipmus paper do the same thing by simply sticking it into the radiator water to see if it changes color
so can you use the vacuum to remove the coolant or would that take longer than draining it?
Oscar Diaz I don't know the answer to that for sure, but I think in theory it could be done. You'd need a compressor that could handle the cfm for a full suck out.
I was just asking because sometimes it takes a bit to drain from the petcock but thanks for answering my question
Mmmm. attach to radiator, or to reservoir? My choice? Which is better? On a Tundra 5.7. I couldn't fine an adapter to fit the small radiator inlet. It didn't work on the reservoir. Short story, it didn't work for me.
I choose radiator, I suspect that is better for coolant flow on the refill... you may need to pinch the tube going to the reservoir
Draw a vacuum or to pressurize it? Looks like you pumped air into it
One way valve. Air pressure from pump is rerouted to perform a vacuum
the air coming from the compressor keeps going straight and pulls a vacuum on where it is plugged into the gauge.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect
I order uview and got to the point I had 25psi on the gauge. But the gauge did not hold the 25psi. It started to drop to zero slowly. I could hear noise of water/coolant and bubbles. Not sure at this point where the air is coming in. I did close the bleed valve. Any thoughts what I should do next ?
Check weep hole at water pump and check the coolant reservoir tank for cracks.
Do I need to drain the coolant before I use this tool ? If so should I drain from the engine coolant drain plug (5mm hex) bolt ?
I'm not sure how effective the airlift would be in a partially filled Boxster coolant system. On my Land Rover, it seemed that it didn't do a very good job of pulling the air out in a partially filled system which is not near as complex as the Boxster. Depending on the situation and age of coolant, I would lean towards a full refill. The engine drain plug will get the job done. I don't know the size, when I drained my coolant last because a bad waterpump, I cut the hoses and replaced them.
Thank you for quick response. Draining from the engine and removing the hose clams under the engine is not too hard. Pull the vehicle on the ramp and get the job done. But draining the radiator is kind of hard. Because we need to remove the front bumper etc.. I have no idea what the bleeder does.
If the car is level, that drain plug is the lowest point in the system. There is no need to open up the radiators if you elevate the car evenly. The bleeder valve is used when you do the coolant refill the hard way.
so , can a person use an air compressor at home to make the unit work and if so how to hook up the compressor end ...?Once hooked up , do you just let the compressor run and if so , at what psi ?
Home shop grade air compressor with normal psi settings (max 120) works perfect (that is what is used in this video) at 1:08 you can see where I plug in the air hose, let it run and draw down to 25 inches of vacuum on the uview airlift gauge.
+ZipZapDIY That is not psi, it is a vacuum.
+Larry Henson correct, the gauge reads.. inches of vacuum, I misspoke. thx.
+Paul Reitz My bad; no vacuum pump. The brass fitting has a venturi, flowing air from compressor draws a vacuum on the coolant reservoir.
Great tutorial but...These are inHG relative pressure gauge. Not PSI. So -25 inHG relative equal -12.25 psig
another zenith blue...
The Airlift 55000 kit at Amazon: amzn.to/1QXiaco
Updated one a.co/jbARmbH
what the fuck car is that?
Porsche Boxster.
ZipZapDIY i said porsche to myself after writing that..thx for the reply