I have the same compressor.I added 1 air tank.Before I added the air tank I timed how long it took to inflate a tyre.I then timed it with the air tank in play.It did not make one bit of difference.But using the air blower gun it made a big difference.The tank helps a lot to run air tools and blower guns but doesnt help at all as far as shortening tyre inflation time.
@@greygum7 did you just time for 1 tyre if so not really a real world. I found it cuts down time for me as when finished with one tyre compressor is still pumping. But really saved me 15 seconds overall
Great choice Andrew ! My dual ARB compressor is fitted under my rear seat in my F250, It’s just nice to keep the unit out of the elements, water, dust etc. I also have it pumping into a larger style 9L tank with dual ports on each side of the vehicle for quick access. It’s fantastic pumping up 37” tyres with a larger tank. Personally I wouldn’t run my compressor off my lithium system, I just run my vehicle while pumping up. I put compressors in the same category as winches, high current I like to run off start batteries.
Andrew, seeing that you installing a air reservoir, I tried to work our how to be to pump 4 tyres from say 1 bar to 2 bar? Well here it is. 1. It's a function of pressure x volume. Base all my calculations on 'free air'. This means the volume (free air) at atmospheric pressure (Patm). 2. At sea level, Patm = 1Bar 3. If your wheel's volume is 20L and pressure is 2Bar: 20x2 = 40L free air. 4. Remember if your wheel is already at 1Bar, you must have 1 + 1 = 2 Bar x full of 20L free air to take up to 2Bar. To pump your wheels from 2Bar to 3Bar you need 2 + 1 = 3 x 80L free air = 240L !. So for every 1Bar you want to increase the pressure in your 4 wheels, you must first overcome the current pressure in the wheels before any air will enter. 5. If you have a 5L tank, it must be pumped 80/5 = 16Bar + 1Bar. 6. Example: Sodastream cylinder is approximately 250ml (0.25L). So at 200Bar he will give you 0.25x200 = 50L of free air. Just enough to increase the pressure of two wheels with one Bar from 0Bar. 7. You also need to consider the size of the tank at the ultimate volume of free air because you will eventually have equilibrium pressure between the wheels and the tank. 7. How many times do you want the air reserve in your tank to be able to pump the wheels? 8. If your tank can take 6Bar pressure: 6-1 = 5. So you only have 5Bar to work with. 80L free air / 5Bar = 16L. Your cylinder will need to be about 20L. Is it worth it? Or do one rather invest in a bigger compressor....? Just a thought
Use a simple buzzer. that way you wont forget that your switch is on. and the noise of the buzzer is not a problem because you will be using your compressor, so it's a win win. Great stuff as usual.
Advantage of two tanks is that the first tank will be your "wet" tank, still storing pressure, but also separating most of the moisture from your second tank, leaving the air you're using considerably drier
Andrew, if you put in a changeover switch to power your compressor, interlock the switch (and therefore your changeover relay) to the parking brake. That way you will never forget to change back because you (should) take off your parking brake to drive. Use a relay latch arrangement to stop it coming back on when you apply the parking brake again. (I can send a drawing) I’m an auto electrician and design electrical systems for trucks, ambulances and the like. You make some excellent points that are valid and a good way of thinking. There is no “answer” it’s just what works on your vehicle, use case and system limits. Great videos!
Great video as usual Andrew. Don’t want to be a stickler but I’m not sure “80 amps per hour” is a unit that should be used. For current draw (at any point in time) is just current hence 80 amps and if calculated as energy consumed over a period of time then it would be “AH or amp hours, NOT amps per hour. Just a tip is all
same here. ASPW please get the electrical units straightened out, for the sake of everybody who is still learning this stuff for school or college. You're confusing their minds.
I have my second battery at the front. Then one positive cable from each battery running inside the cab to a master battery selector switch. The output from that switch goes to the accessories in the back. When I run the compressor, I set it to both batteries and run the engine at high idle...with a stick or a rock 👌
double batteries = double trouble so they say. BUT, with the help of a140Amp + battery splitter so the alternator sees each battery seperate, works fine. Most setups are 'Poor Man' and the alternator charges the battery with the least resistance, albeit the one with highest voltage and not the flatest.
for that warning buzzer you were talking about you may be able to use the handbrake warning light on the dash as some form of signal wire or have it connected to a relay so your compressor changeover switch only works while the handbrake is up
yes a simole interlock and HD 100Amp relay. I live in the bush and most 4bys coming to the station front gate swing the steerong left right left so the front wheels bite in on the slight slope . Toyos are bad for rusting up the Hand brake cable . I like true 4WD that have air maxi brakes . less to go wrong
Dear Andrew, accidentially I do know a lot about pneumatic. It should allways have an air-dryer-system in front of the compressor. The easiest to the system would be a kind of zentrifugal dryer as they are used in heavy duty trucks, since they don't disturb the air intake. In addition to that the tanks should have drainage-valves (one per tank on its lowest point) to manual drain them from than to than. And there should be a dryer placed in front of each over-pressure-protection-valve and one behind each tank on the low-pressure-side of the system. There are several reasons to it. One you did already mentioned: to have a dry air outtake. Another one is corrosion prevention. Yes, you might have worked with stainless steel, yet it is surprising how much details inside valves and stuff are not made out of stainless steel. In addition to that there is the issue of temperature. In low temperature below freezing point - like in the Australian Alpes (since you are in Australia) - vapouring water would condense and stock-freeze moving parts to kill the system. In high temperature like you'll get it more and more often throughout the year in Australia due to the clima change (es well as world wide) all the small sealings will cought moisture to die in its material and function. Thus: don't save money on the dryers and the drainage valves in any high pressure system running on atmospheric air breesed into it. It only is different, if it comes to closed pressure systems, like in an air condition or a refrigerator or so on - independed from whether or not it at the end is actually pneumatic or hydraulic. Not if it is supposed to last. Sincerily, Stefan.
I have the cables for the air connected just before the dc/dc- charger. 50 mm2 from the start battery to the back tray-dmax. So while enginge running and compressor running..well, dc/dc doesnt get much but it works.
We are just waiting on delivery of the ARB single high ouput compressor. We decided to also get the ARB LINX system and the compressor kit that allows you to set a specific pressure and then press one button on the LINX and it will automatically deflate/inflate accordingly. You can also turn on the compressor from any position as you can take the LINX out of its mount on the dash with you. The other reason for the LINX system, is that we want to wire 3 work lights and the front spot lights to it, that way while we are in the back of the camper body, and we hear anything outside that we want to illuminate, or scare off, we simply bring the LINX unit into the back with us as we camp for the night and can turn all of the lights on/off remotely. We think it will be a good security feature, never mind the bonus of being able to turn the lights on when wandering around easily from your pocket as the LINX control unit is very similar to a mobile phone. It goes without saying it will be powering our rear air locker too. All that gear will be leaving ARB Europe in April, we will post up a video when we get a chance.
I always, always run the engine while pumping. Why wouldn't you? BUT. The average charger (DC-DC) will not keep up with a large compressor. So even with the engine running, current will not be replaced as its used. Much better from the starter battery with direct alternator charging.
@@4xoverland let's look at the numbers a bit closer. The compressor draws 80 amps...okay, agreed. If you ran it for an hour, it would use 80ah...meaning if you have 200ah of lithiums and ran the compressor for ONE HOUR, your batteries would be depleted to 120ah. It is highly unlikely that you would run the compressor for anywhere near one whole hour....probably 15 minutes if that model is as good as ARB claims. Knowing you, Andrew, it is also highly unlikely that you would allow your lithium batteries to be hugely depleted overnight. I have a 300ah system in my caravan and even though it runs fridges, lights, water pumps etc during the night, it is rarely lower than about 80% SOC by morning AND even then, the roof-mounted solar panels have them back up to 100% SOC by 0900 which is about when we head off most days. Don't overthink it mate. The lithiums will do the job nicely.
@@4xoverland Absolutely, cranking batteries are designed for amps for short periods of time. With the alternator running, although it helps, its the battery delivering the bulk of the 80+ amps required by the compressor. The alternator is a/ not very efficient and b/not putting in a lot of amps at idle. It's probably no better than the DC-DC charger. Lithium batteries can deliver that current, but their built in battery management system rarely can, so they are quite limited.
As Bill points out, with the right Lithiums with the capacity, they would be the preferred option for the compressor, but not many of us have the high current capable Lithiums, so cranking battery is probably the only choice for most of us.
So we’ve worked out that the compressor is in the wrong spot hooked up to the wrong battery. Excellent! Now just to change it all over to something/somewhere else. Great vid Andrew and very entertaining. 😉🍺
Yep like other people have said, "keep it simple" wire it directly from your starting battery! Location at the back of the vehicle is perfectly fine and voltage drop won't be a problem if you size the cable correctly.
The earlier Troopy was a near perfect touring truck; I really admired it. You obviously know all it's good points and shortcomings.This new vehicle is an upgrade, a blank canvas with loads more space to paint on and I hope you are only adding, removing or changing fundamental stuff based on a need learnt from the Troopy experience. For the average Dave money is a major consideration and the search for the "perfect" truck is very elusive... a compromise of needs and wants as you so often state. Looking forward to the finished truck.
I wonder how much performance difference there is between have one ARB air tank (4L) and 2 (8L) when you have to pump up from say 18psi to 36psi? I don't think it would be all that much,
Shane Norwell - Correct. Air tanks (this size) are only beneficial on a vehicle for running say an air nozzle to give a short burst of air, cleaning say a part off. Otherwise a waste of space and weight.
@@shanenorwell8580 true, I would like to say that a comp has only so much fart, if its gotta blow up a tank first then its not going into the goodyear as fast, But if ya start the comp earlier , well thats a diff fish
I was once of the opinion that the ARB twin compressor was overkill. But after experiencing many failures of one side of mine in remote locations that has resulted in ARB rebuilding it no less than four times, I now believe it's a necessary redundancy.
jack turtle - in general you’re correct, but if you are running with a group and frequently airing up/down, it sucks to be ‘that guy’ that everyone is waiting on.
I run a $175 cheap Dick Smith twin piston comp rated @ 220Psi @300L/s. (Best buy on the market IMHO) goes from 10Psi to 22 in no time x 4 is still under 10Mins. My biggest concern since I have alzheimers is that with the clip-on fitting I will one day blow a tyre to destruction.
You do a nice job Andrew, however one massive flaw. The air outlet at the back will fill with dust and mud and be impossible to use. Put the outlet inside a side box. Made the exact same mistake with the same arb fittings.
MMMM, not strictly true Retho. On loaders and trucks that come with air brake sytems as TRUE 4WD's have, they normally have a couple of snap on outlets. The trick is to get a glove and cut the thumb out and put this over the outlet. works for me
I’m running an ARB single compressor and it’s been great. I was thinking about installing a tank to help with airing up. But from what I can see from my research, there is very little benefit to installing a tank. Any thoughts on whether that’s true or not?
Andrew you should start subscribing to the "KISS" philosophy. You would have been better running the supply to the start battery which is what you do for your winch supply. And when using your winch the engine is always running to protect the battery from heavy, damaging discharge. Or was this just a test for your subscribers? Cheers.
Thanks. I almost mounted my arb duel compress or to my aux battery! Because I have it in my camper shell of my Toyota Tundra. Running long wires to the compressor will cause too much of a drop so as you explained mounting it in the engine bay high up and running air lines to the tank and go from there is best. What size tire is best for a full size truck for what we do? My tundra can fit 33-37s on my old man emu lift with the arb bumper.
I just recently moved the compressor from the engine bay to a rear storage system I built. The compressor was too close to the exhaust (lack of room) and had too much dust in the engine bay. Next for me is installing the aux battery, which will be really close to the compressor, but I feel like I still need to wire it to the starter battery. I dont have the dual, so I only max out at 40amps. I think just wiring it directly to the starter with a large gauge cable.
Good point. Never thought about it! Now, a system that you just connect your two front wheels and after your back wheels at the same time, would be lovely as well!!
You've already got a compressor tank Your tray roll bar !. Probably hold 20 litres or more. Get someone to build it for materials only and let them have the idea to develop for general manufacture and sale. No added weight.
I love watching your videos, Andrew, I think you maybe get just a little bit more fun designing and building than using the vehicles afterwards. The thought that goes into every aspect of the construction is something to watch. I don't know how many vehicles you've bought, modified, trialled and inspected but it looks as though you treat it as an opportunity to see if you can make or do anything better than the last time. No matter how many times you may have done that thing before. I just love the attention to detail. You seem like a perfectionist but one that knows perfection cannot be obtained but you'll do whatever you can to reach it. Please, don't stop.
Thinking process and using the comments advice gives you a great way before settling on your final installation. Take your time but be sure saves you from I should or could have... I will go for close to the battery, comp and tank below if you have space with a out side hose plug. No rooting for air and cable lines or wear and tear etc. To keep it simple is the best. Thanks for sharing!
I personally think your overthinking the whole disconnect switch to your charging setup. You will be stunned how fast that lithium bank will charge up, especially if you are running any sort of solar again. Yes 60amps is a lot of current, but it isn’t a lot of current for very long. You are better suited to just make a habit of starting that air compressor up after you leave camp so the tanks are full when you get to asphalt. With the dual compressor and two tanks your tires will be full in very short order. 60amps is also probably peak output, for that last bit of struggle to get your tanks to max pressure. Also, carry a cap for that split in between the two tanks in case one ruptures.
Always a good policy, imagine being under a vehicle being pelted with stones year after year. Its a bit like bull bar lights , should always have some garden hose over the cables . I laugh at the dumb electricians who nearly always place the trailer plug as the lowest thing on the vehicle . Mount them above the tow hitch ffs , even if you have to lenghten the cable. Look @ how semis, and trailers have a helper spring to guide cables and air hose. A little bit extra done @ home is better than doing a lot in the bush
I do agree I have 2 boss px07 and I now use I carry a rattle gun but I do change my tyre pressure regularly on different grounds is the reason why I got the bigger compressors and never looked back
I have a PX07 as my back-up compressor....I rely mainly on the Endless Air 9cfm pump which is about 4 times better than the PX07. They are a great compressor with 100% duty cycle, but like the ARB jobbie, they do draw a lot of current.
@@Y.D.M.P : edit needed, Amp/h doesn't exist. it is Amp.hr (Ah) lol... Ah is used because the battery is "assumed" to be 12V nominal.... and traditionally people had Amp meters not Watt meters..
Andrew, You're over thinking it mate. Take the power for the compressor off the same cable that feeds the DC-DC... Simple. While the compressor is running, the DC-DC might be getting a little less power, but it's only for a few minutes, and the alternator will have the voltage at 13.x volts. Obviously fusing it directly off the big cable (which itself is fused at the battery). Thin trigger wire to the switch, and you're done. No reason you can't wire a second switch in the back.
What size cable and fuse would you need to run a dc charger and compressor on the same cable?Big thats what.40 amp fuse for compressor + 30 amp fuse for 25 amp dc charger = 80 amp maxi fuse.3 awg cable.Big.
The very first item in the ARB 4L Air tank installation guide says to mount the tank so the outlet is closest to the ground to avoid moisture accumulation. You have plenty of room behind that tool box to mount the cylinder vertical. Not doing so, moisture will collect in the tank and reduce the capacity to 50% over time. Love your videos Andrew and i see you driving around now and then. Keep up the good work!
Yes 100% you must mount upright so you can drain the tank otherwise the pipe connections rust out and block after even minimum usage! I had to take mine back to ARB a week ago for this very reason! It’s almost certain that the way they installed this tank will mean it will rust out
Andrew, you are using ARB gear, so you should try to use ARB LINX instead of filling your cockpit with massive number of switches. I fitted ARB Linx to my Defender and connected with ARB double compressor and ARB front and rear difflocks. It works perfect together and I don t have many additional switches. You really should try it as you use also fridges and additional batteries.
8L still seems like a small tank capacity for a >1 horsepower air compressor. I took one of those dual compressors on a job that required a lot of air and they overheat until the (quite expensive) fuse pops after running continuously for around 15min or stop starting for about 35 min if it is able to pump a tank up to a reasonable pressure and therefore shut down for longer say run 5min stop 5min it never overheated. If you are taking it to a sensible pressure that beast can fill a 4L tank in no time. You are also right about being worried about voltage drop we had to run it on 1000A jumper leads or the voltage drop over 5m was too much and it ran crap and overheated (and melted the 400 amp rated cables we tried first.)
You know how some people think twin stack exhausts on something that isn't an American truck is a good idea? Twin air tanks is the next must have thanks to you Andrew. 😜
I love it!! I can fit two tanks..... No, I don't need two tanks.......I'm going to fit two tanks!!!! Haha, awesome video!! Really enjoy your content Andrew
I found out (a long time ago) with aa building site compressor that it doesn't matter how much air hose you have as long as the compressor is close to it's power source. This is because, as you stated, it there is current drop if the power source is too far away but the hose does not lose pressure despite having a longer length. Is it safe to assume that the same rules apply here? Can you accoustically insulate the compressor if it is in the cockpit of the 4by to reduce the noise effect on passengers? Lastly, when I bought my 100 Series, the compressor was already fitted but, in a position where I often bump it with my knee when exiting the vehicle so, that might be an inportant consideration for you too, Andrew.
When I do any thing with tyres the passengers are told, "everybody out " Have seen where people have rocked round and the jack toppled. anyway just how noisy is a compressor and 99.9% of V8's have a hoon exhausts. If ya can hear the comp ypu know its running IMHO
With regard to the location of the compressor, I am using Viair compressor that comes with a tank. The compressor suction inlet can be connected to a hose and filter that can be routed to the inside of the car. So you can easily install the compressor in the engine bay and not worry about sucking dust or hot air. Try to configure your ARB that way … It may work
Good idea but I think just running a intake line into the cab and having the compressor in the tool box will fix noise problems and putting bushes in the bolts to the tray above the toolbox can reduce vibration. I am very impressed by the battery bank storage
Hi Andrew, I have 2 x 100Ah Lithium batteries ad a Redarc 40A charger. I have run these batteries flat and still then powered the compressor off them with the car started. I will note that it did sound down on power, at which point the engaged my 'self jumpstart' switch which links the AUX and starter battery (to bypass the charger). The difference in my setup is that i have two alternators; i expect with one alternator you would need to bump up the RPM to increase current output.
wow 2 chargers, KISS for me . Years back a mate had an old 80 series with a u/s air con sys but the comp still worked , so he used that. Just put a few squirts of peanut oil in the A/C comp inlet every few months
It might be possible to use a push button switch with a latching circuit. wire the latching circuit to the hand break so when the hand break is released the system de activates and feeds power to the other systems at the back. I've seen magnetic contactors used on many of the trucks at work. Hope this helps
Why not in the engine bay with the compressor airtake connected to the engine air intake after the air filter? With a one way valve? Won't be fighting the engine for air if the engine is at idle.
Good morning Andrew I am truly enjoying the Variety Videos that You have Invested such enormous effort( & ofcourse Financial) to create - Emmense Gratitude. On this Specific Video. I was glued. The privilege of being audience to the Trail of thought, simply priceless. I am looking forward to the Solution that You will settle on. Again. Emmense gratitude. Keep Up these Video please.
In reality having an air tank or multiple air tanks would not necessarily pump your tyre up faster because first you must fill the tank up. You are still reliant on how much air the compressor put out . All an air tank does is give you greater volume ideal for blowing / tools etc .
Hi Andrew, Do not be concerned about the comments regarding the compressor. On my most recent build I have a single ARB compressor in the cab running off my 125aH lithium with a 40A DCDC charger. Compressor performs very, very similarly at idle and with engine off. The lithium batteries handle high current draw extraordinarily well. When the folks commenting first experience a lithium battery they will then realise how ridiculous they sound. A question (apologies if I have missed it along the way), which rim/tyre combination size have you decided on? 285/75R16 and to a lesser extent 285/70R17 seem to be very easy to come by Australia wide
Excellent demonstration of the thought-process that should go into planning this stuff. Maybe worth pointing out that another consideration would be the presence of air-locking diff's. Not much point in fitting the compressor's switch somewhere obscure and then realising it means you can't start the compressor when you need it to engage your diff' locks. On a similar note, I was wondering how you wired up your electrical water heater? A 300w heating element draws >20Amps. You probably don't want it running directly off your starter battery or you'll end-up with a flat battery after a few days camping but a 20A draw on an AGM battery is kind of high (IMO). Ideally, the heater will be used when the vehicle is running (which'd mean it'll be okay to run off the starter battery) but there'll also be times when it's used while camping too. I was actually wondering about fitting a switch to allow the heater to draw power from either battery but, as Andrew notes, you then really need some kind of glaringly-obvious indicator to ensure you don't leave the switch in the wrong position and accidentally suck a heap of juice out of the "wrong" battery. Honestly, I wonder if the simplest solution might be to wire the water-heater up to the starter battery and then just put a sticker next to the water-heater switch saying something like "Use only with engine running" Decisions, decisions!
The Dream Build for sure :-) I'm not sure how often a compressor is need in Australia? (I've driven there, and mastered the Melbourne Hook Turn, but not spent any time off-road). My experience in southern Africa is that you need to get somewhere on tar (like up the N7 from CT to Windhoek) and then you are off-piste for what could be weeks, with lower tyre pressures. Then, a week or more later, you get back on tar and want to pump up. Speed of inflation is never an issue for me, because in my top five Africa driving rules (Never drive at night being #1) is Never Be In a Hurry. Bad things happen when you rush. Saving ten minutes on reinflating tyres is inconsequential. I've been using the same old Vyair compressor in a bag for a decade. Does the job. I connect it to Anderson winch connectors (receiver-mount winch) that are installed front and rear, so the cables are there when needed. But you know you can just drive slowly on tar - to the petrol station that will be there. It depends on how aired-far down you are, but another channel I watch has a guy who recovers stuck vehicles in Utah driving an hour on tar to get to his customers, tugging them out and then driving back on tar - all at 9 psi...
Love rule #1 Never at night. and yet so many have enough candle power to light up a run way. Once I wanted to get back to town and made the mistake of driving at night. Came into a creek crossing and drove over a shadow , a dark spot, which turned out to be a huge flat, but upward rounded stone, big enough to jack all 4 wheels off the ground. Spent a few hours trying to get free, went to sleep and took most of the next day carrying in stones to put under the wheels, big enough not to get spat out. Last time I ever drove an unknown track at night. Also black rouge bulls make black ARB bull bars look like plastic . We have WRITE OFF troopy as a result . looks like it had been dragged side on by a dozer and then pushed front on into a big tree . The bonnet had to be cut of with grinder to salvage the OK motor
I support everyone's right to a preference and an opinion. Mine is that offloading/overlanding has become an overpriced industry and all the bits of kit being produced render us little boys playing with all our little toys. All this unnecessary complication is about money being generated into the 4x4 market and making some people rich. I have a fairly cheap Chinese compressor that connects to my starter battery and it has served its purpose simply and reliably since 2007. It will probably come to pass that I will need to replace my compressor and I will go the same route, costing a tenth of the price and a tenth of the angst generated by all this fuss and complication. Offroading/overlanding has always meant leaving behind the luxuries and complexities in my home in the city and relaxing in simplicity of style and purpose in the bush. I've never needed more and have had the privilege of travelling to some pretty remote places in Africa over the years. Sometimes I just think we need to re-prioritize.
I agree with you. Completely. But doing cool stuff with my 4x4 and presenting it is my job. If I wasn't doing this, Id probably go for something a lot simpler. But make no mistake, people love this stuff. And so do I.
Of course! I absolutely understand your perspective and support you in it. I have been watching your videos, bought your DVD's and bought your books from almost two decades ago. And will continue to do so.
You can use a hose with a filter on the end for your air compressor intake. Route that inside the vehicle and keep the compressor outside. That's how mine is set up, I'm surprised the Arb doesn't come with such a thing.
Hi Andrew, I would place a large solenoid on the wire that feeds from the main battery to the rear panel and have it wired to the compressor switch, once you turn on the compressor, it will connect to both batteries.
The compressor will draw 80 amps Andrew as soon as soon as it is turned on, the hour bit generally relates to battery capacity only in technical terms. But yes if you run the compressor only it will draw around or less than 80 amps every hour it runs.
Hi Andrew - having a bit of a binge watch at the moment. However did you consider gre Clearview Spider when considering inflating / deflating systems. My knees are starting to kick against kneeling next to my wheels while transitioning and am considering g the spider. Did you look at it? Regards
ARB, even make that a selling point for these compressors. As long as the air inlet is piped somewhere clean the compressor can run in water / mud / dust.
Can you just run it off your aux battery that is charged with a DC to DC charger and run the vehicle while using the compressor. Wouldn't the DC to DC charger not be running the compressor like the alternator would be?
Been following the channel when I can. Just seen your thoughts re compressor and battery choice. I am no expert but what is the current draw you said 80amps earlier on and then towards end you said 40amps. I haven’t looked at the Lithium spec of your batteries but better check what Cell Rating / Energy Density I am guessing given the price they might be 0.5C so if 80 amps continuous draw that’s too high for that battery. You did say under bonnet close to starter battery . Yep good idea and can I suggest you run an additional secondary cylinder style air filter to the compressor air intakes and mount it high up. I have seen some run it to air box filter but risky better to do seperate filter. Anyway will watch to see what you do, as we never stop learning. Cheers MATG
One Man Trail thanks for the heads up, being 1C then that’ should be enough, should he decide to use the Lithums to be the supply power source, not what I would do for day to day operation I would be more incline to use the alternator and starter battery system.
I know I am a bit of a dill when it comes to this stuff but why do you need a tank for the compressor. I have been using compressoers for years without one and can't work out why I would need one? If it is only to speed things up then I don't think I will be getting one.
The way a compressor works. Is that is will pump air into you tire. The better and faster the compressor. The faster they inflate. (That's logical) With an air tank, you can fill it full of air with high pressure. So therotically, you can have a crappy compressor that pumps the air tank. But because you have an air tank, you have that pressure built up. And it will fill up the tire extremely quick. If you have big tyres, and will be dropping them down to very low psi. And pumping them up to decent psi. This process can take alot of time. A bigger compressor would make it quicker. But then adding an air tank, you don't have to pump air, as you allready have air. And it becomes extremely quick. Most people probably don't need this compressor or air tank. But it is available for those who do.
What else can we waste money on. I worked in a caravan park here in the Kimberley for a couple of seasons loved to watch the toys roll in $238.000 Chevs with $100K fit outs including superchargers, pulling $350K extensible trailers. If ya got it ya got it
Andrew, I gotta say, I think you'll be just fine on the lithiums. I run my ARB Elements fridge, ARB twin compressor, a 1500w inverter, and all my camp lighting while charging camera batteries all off one 100ah lithium and 200w of solar feeding it and I've never been lacking for power during 6 week trips. You'll have double that, you're gonna be golden!
For the question of which batteries to use. I wired each side of the compressor to its own 80A change-over relays. When the engine is running, its switched to starter/alternator. When it's not, it's off the auxiliary lithium battery in the rear where the compressor itself is mounted. jaydeeautocables.com.au/collections/heavy-duty-relays/products/maxi-relays As for fitting a second tank, just fit a single 9L tank. The Air-on-board branded ones are under $100. I have the ARB Twin & a 9L tank fitted in a Nissan Pathfinder. They're a great physical size & would easily fit where you mounted the 4L ARB one. Now I have twin air lockers, Airbagman bags in the rear & use it for my tires / basic air tools, so I opted for a larger tank to reduce the duty cycle of the compressor, as it's in the cab, but it's awesome! www.aironboard.com.au/store/products/tanks/9-litre-steel-air-tank.html
Why not the pellycase, arb twin compressor set. Comes with the tank, the right cables. It is watertight so you can store it everywhere, you can use whatever battery available. You can even help your friends by taken the compressor use there batteries. If you switch between different cars you take the compressor tight it down and ready to go..
When you move the pump away from the battery you make your hard lines linger. Plus your attaching separate tanks. Like wires the lines have resistance causing you to use more power to pump up the tanks.
Did you consider a belt driven compressor? I don't know how much room is in a LC engine bay , but I have one fitted to my 2015 Prado with a 10 litre air tank and it works a treat..very fast and also great for blowing out air filter elements, and no problems with batteries and charging..all up $1650, which is expensive.
@@JS-tb9hu More or less , but has a grease nipple for lubrication and is purpose built by a Coy. named Endless Air..I bought the unit and bracket , did the hoses and out let myself and had an Auto Electrician do the wiring to a switch in the cab
I figure, if you are going to overkill on air compressor, get two - you can then pump two tyres at a time and have a spare should one fail. The tank is nice, but my experience has been that it doesn't add that much when you are pumping tyres. Perhaps with what you've already fitted Andrew, you can fit a second quick connect to the tank so you can pump two tyres at a time?
Viktor Sligo the point Ethan is trying to make is that if there is space for two 4L tanks then there is clearly room for one larger tank that would be more size and space efficient.
I have the same compressor.I added 1 air tank.Before I added the air tank I timed how long it took to inflate a tyre.I then timed it with the air tank in play.It did not make one bit of difference.But using the air blower gun it made a big difference.The tank helps a lot to run air tools and blower guns but doesnt help at all as far as shortening tyre inflation time.
@@greygum7 did you just time for 1 tyre if so not really a real world. I found it cuts down time for me as when finished with one tyre compressor is still pumping. But really saved me 15 seconds overall
"You don't need two tanks. Who cares? ........ Okay I'm gonna fit two tanks." lol
Great choice Andrew !
My dual ARB compressor is fitted under my rear seat in my F250, It’s just nice to keep the unit out of the elements, water, dust etc.
I also have it pumping into a larger style 9L tank with dual ports on each side of the vehicle for quick access. It’s fantastic pumping up 37” tyres with a larger tank.
Personally I wouldn’t run my compressor off my lithium system, I just run my vehicle while pumping up.
I put compressors in the same category as winches, high current I like to run off start batteries.
Awesome setup. How long does it take to fill up the 37s with the air tank?
The replies to comments on people who don't understand it's not their car are brilliant. Love the build.
Andrew, seeing that you installing a air reservoir, I tried to work our how to be to pump 4 tyres from say 1 bar to 2 bar? Well here it is. 1. It's a function of pressure x volume. Base all my calculations on 'free air'. This means the volume (free air) at atmospheric pressure (Patm).
2. At sea level, Patm = 1Bar
3. If your wheel's volume is 20L and pressure is 2Bar: 20x2 = 40L free air.
4. Remember if your wheel is already at 1Bar, you must have 1 + 1 = 2 Bar x full of 20L free air to take up to 2Bar. To pump your wheels from 2Bar to 3Bar you need 2 + 1 = 3 x 80L free air = 240L !. So for every 1Bar you want to increase the pressure in your 4 wheels, you must first overcome the current pressure in the wheels before any air will enter.
5. If you have a 5L tank, it must be pumped 80/5 = 16Bar + 1Bar.
6. Example: Sodastream cylinder is approximately 250ml (0.25L). So at 200Bar he will give you 0.25x200 = 50L of free air. Just enough to increase the pressure of two wheels with one Bar from 0Bar.
7. You also need to consider the size of the tank at the ultimate volume of free air because you will eventually have equilibrium pressure between the wheels and the tank.
7. How many times do you want the air reserve in your tank to be able to pump the wheels?
8. If your tank can take 6Bar pressure:
6-1 = 5. So you only have 5Bar to work with. 80L free air / 5Bar = 16L. Your cylinder will need to be about 20L. Is it worth it? Or do one rather invest in a bigger compressor....? Just a thought
WOW all that math , do you do that every time , just kidding
Use a simple buzzer. that way you wont forget that your switch is on. and the noise of the buzzer is not a problem because you will be using your compressor, so it's a win win.
Great stuff as usual.
Advantage of two tanks is that the first tank will be your "wet" tank, still storing pressure, but also separating most of the moisture from your second tank, leaving the air you're using considerably drier
Andrew, if you put in a changeover switch to power your compressor, interlock the switch (and therefore your changeover relay) to the parking brake. That way you will never forget to change back because you (should) take off your parking brake to drive. Use a relay latch arrangement to stop it coming back on when you apply the parking brake again. (I can send a drawing)
I’m an auto electrician and design electrical systems for trucks, ambulances and the like. You make some excellent points that are valid and a good way of thinking. There is no “answer” it’s just what works on your vehicle, use case and system limits. Great videos!
Great video as usual Andrew. Don’t want to be a stickler but I’m not sure “80 amps per hour” is a unit that should be used. For current draw (at any point in time) is just current hence 80 amps and if calculated as energy consumed over a period of time then it would be “AH or amp hours, NOT amps per hour. Just a tip is all
Excellent explanation . I always have a chuckle when i hear the terms being misused. Im a stickler too. Haha
same here. ASPW please get the electrical units straightened out, for the sake of everybody who is still learning this stuff for school or college. You're confusing their minds.
I have my second battery at the front. Then one positive cable from each battery running inside the cab to a master battery selector switch. The output from that switch goes to the accessories in the back. When I run the compressor, I set it to both batteries and run the engine at high idle...with a stick or a rock 👌
double batteries = double trouble so they say. BUT, with the help of a140Amp + battery splitter so the alternator sees each battery seperate, works fine. Most setups are 'Poor Man' and the alternator charges the battery with the least resistance, albeit the one with highest voltage and not the flatest.
Just an idea plumb the air intake of the compressor into the air box. It keeps the intake clean and the compressor close to the battery
for that warning buzzer you were talking about you may be able to use the handbrake warning light on the dash as some form of signal wire or have it connected to a relay so your compressor changeover switch only works while the handbrake is up
yes a simole interlock and HD 100Amp relay.
I live in the bush and most 4bys coming to the station front gate swing the steerong left right left so the front wheels bite in on the slight slope . Toyos are bad for rusting up the Hand brake cable . I like true 4WD that have air maxi brakes . less to go wrong
Dear Andrew,
accidentially I do know a lot about pneumatic. It should allways have an air-dryer-system in front of the compressor. The easiest to the system would be a kind of zentrifugal dryer as they are used in heavy duty trucks, since they don't disturb the air intake.
In addition to that the tanks should have drainage-valves (one per tank on its lowest point) to manual drain them from than to than.
And there should be a dryer placed in front of each over-pressure-protection-valve and one behind each tank on the low-pressure-side of the system.
There are several reasons to it.
One you did already mentioned: to have a dry air outtake.
Another one is corrosion prevention. Yes, you might have worked with stainless steel, yet it is surprising how much details inside valves and stuff are not made out of stainless steel.
In addition to that there is the issue of temperature. In low temperature below freezing point - like in the Australian Alpes (since you are in Australia) - vapouring water would condense and stock-freeze moving parts to kill the system.
In high temperature like you'll get it more and more often throughout the year in Australia due to the clima change (es well as world wide) all the small sealings will cought moisture to die in its material and function.
Thus: don't save money on the dryers and the drainage valves in any high pressure system running on atmospheric air breesed into it.
It only is different, if it comes to closed pressure systems, like in an air condition or a refrigerator or so on - independed from whether or not it at the end is actually pneumatic or hydraulic.
Not if it is supposed to last.
Sincerily,
Stefan.
I have the cables for the air connected just before the dc/dc- charger. 50 mm2 from the start battery to the back tray-dmax. So while enginge running and compressor running..well, dc/dc doesnt get much but it works.
50 sq cable is used on 150/200Amp welders Wow
We are just waiting on delivery of the ARB single high ouput compressor. We decided to also get the ARB LINX system and the compressor kit that allows you to set a specific pressure and then press one button on the LINX and it will automatically deflate/inflate accordingly. You can also turn on the compressor from any position as you can take the LINX out of its mount on the dash with you. The other reason for the LINX system, is that we want to wire 3 work lights and the front spot lights to it, that way while we are in the back of the camper body, and we hear anything outside that we want to illuminate, or scare off, we simply bring the LINX unit into the back with us as we camp for the night and can turn all of the lights on/off remotely. We think it will be a good security feature, never mind the bonus of being able to turn the lights on when wandering around easily from your pocket as the LINX control unit is very similar to a mobile phone. It goes without saying it will be powering our rear air locker too. All that gear will be leaving ARB Europe in April, we will post up a video when we get a chance.
Just start your engine Andrew and then pump up the tyres, you could damage your batteries if you don't have the engine running with that current draw.
Gotta say I agree... I would always run the engine when running the compressor, no matter which battery it’s wired to
I always, always run the engine while pumping. Why wouldn't you? BUT. The average charger (DC-DC) will not keep up with a large compressor. So even with the engine running, current will not be replaced as its used. Much better from the starter battery with direct alternator charging.
@@4xoverland let's look at the numbers a bit closer. The compressor draws 80 amps...okay, agreed. If you ran it for an hour, it would use 80ah...meaning if you have 200ah of lithiums and ran the compressor for ONE HOUR, your batteries would be depleted to 120ah.
It is highly unlikely that you would run the compressor for anywhere near one whole hour....probably 15 minutes if that model is as good as ARB claims.
Knowing you, Andrew, it is also highly unlikely that you would allow your lithium batteries to be hugely depleted overnight. I have a 300ah system in my caravan and even though it runs fridges, lights, water pumps etc during the night, it is rarely lower than about 80% SOC by morning AND even then, the roof-mounted solar panels have them back up to 100% SOC by 0900 which is about when we head off most days.
Don't overthink it mate. The lithiums will do the job nicely.
@@4xoverland Absolutely, cranking batteries are designed for amps for short periods of time. With the alternator running, although it helps, its the battery delivering the bulk of the 80+ amps required by the compressor. The alternator is a/ not very efficient and b/not putting in a lot of amps at idle. It's probably no better than the DC-DC charger. Lithium batteries can deliver that current, but their built in battery management system rarely can, so they are quite limited.
As Bill points out, with the right Lithiums with the capacity, they would be the preferred option for the compressor, but not many of us have the high current capable Lithiums, so cranking battery is probably the only choice for most of us.
I think you could have a longer air tank in the same spot as the small one is mounted. enough air to run air tools would be pretty great
So we’ve worked out that the compressor is in the wrong spot hooked up to the wrong battery.
Excellent! Now just to change it all over to something/somewhere else.
Great vid Andrew and very entertaining. 😉🍺
I mounted my twin ARB under drivers seat with no air tank and running off the starter battery. Works perfectly.
I have my single ARB compressor mounted under the front passenger seat, SWB. Used for lockers and tyres. The switch is on the dash.
Yep like other people have said, "keep it simple" wire it directly from your starting battery! Location at the back of the vehicle is perfectly fine and voltage drop won't be a problem if you size the cable correctly.
As I’m driving a vehicle around half the size of yours - or less, I appreciate your thoughts, ideas, and solutions.
The earlier Troopy was a near perfect touring truck; I really admired it. You obviously know all it's good points and shortcomings.This new vehicle is an upgrade, a blank canvas with loads more space to paint on and I hope you are only adding, removing or changing fundamental stuff based on a need learnt from the Troopy experience. For the average Dave money is a major consideration and the search for the "perfect" truck is very elusive... a compromise of needs and wants as you so often state. Looking forward to the finished truck.
I wonder how much performance difference there is between have one ARB air tank (4L) and 2 (8L) when you have to pump up from say 18psi to 36psi? I don't think it would be all that much,
Lock your Hubs 4WDing the benefits of a tank are so minimal it’s not worth the cost, weight and effort mate.
Shane Norwell - Correct. Air tanks (this size) are only beneficial on a vehicle for running say an air nozzle to give a short burst of air, cleaning say a part off. Otherwise a waste of space and weight.
@@shanenorwell8580 true, I would like to say that a comp has only so much fart, if its gotta blow up a tank first then its not going into the goodyear as fast, But if ya start the comp earlier , well thats a diff fish
Thank you for letting us in on your thought process along the way.
I was once of the opinion that the ARB twin compressor was overkill. But after experiencing many failures of one side of mine in remote locations that has resulted in ARB rebuilding it no less than four times, I now believe it's a necessary redundancy.
I always picture a young David Attenborough discussing his 4x4 adventure anxieties when i watch this fella with my eyes closed.
What is the rush to pump up the tyres?? and how many minutes do you run your compressor
jack turtle - in general you’re correct, but if you are running with a group and frequently airing up/down, it sucks to be ‘that guy’ that everyone is waiting on.
I run a $175 cheap Dick Smith twin piston comp rated @ 220Psi @300L/s. (Best buy on the market IMHO) goes from 10Psi to 22 in no time x 4 is still under 10Mins. My biggest concern since I have alzheimers is that with the clip-on fitting I will one day blow a tyre to destruction.
do you have issues with wire corrosion after time? would marine wire be worth the extra expense?
Only use marine grade, A) its silver coated. B) it outlast the boat IMHO. The poor man pays twice
@@RobertTaylor-vd2mw I'm aware of marine grade wire being pre-tinned. Good stuff last on an overlander long time especially if shielded.
You do a nice job Andrew, however one massive flaw. The air outlet at the back will fill with dust and mud and be impossible to use. Put the outlet inside a side box. Made the exact same mistake with the same arb fittings.
There is a large rubber bung covering it. I just didn't show it, but you can see the green cord. I had this on my Troopy and it kept all the dust out.
MMMM, not strictly true Retho. On loaders and trucks that come with air brake sytems as TRUE 4WD's have, they normally have a couple of snap on outlets. The trick is to get a glove and cut the thumb out and put this over the outlet. works for me
I’m running an ARB single compressor and it’s been great. I was thinking about installing a tank to help with airing up. But from what I can see from my research, there is very little benefit to installing a tank. Any thoughts on whether that’s true or not?
Andrew you should start subscribing to the "KISS" philosophy. You would have been better running the supply to the start battery which is what you do for your winch supply. And when using your winch the engine is always running to protect the battery from heavy, damaging discharge. Or was this just a test for your subscribers? Cheers.
Right on Paul. KISS works, double batteries = double trouble unless done correctly , see earlier post
Thanks. I almost mounted my arb duel compress or to my aux battery! Because I have it in my camper shell of my Toyota Tundra.
Running long wires to the compressor will cause too much of a drop so as you explained mounting it in the engine bay high up and running air lines to the tank and go from there is best.
What size tire is best for a full size truck for what we do? My tundra can fit 33-37s on my old man emu lift with the arb bumper.
I just recently moved the compressor from the engine bay to a rear storage system I built. The compressor was too close to the exhaust (lack of room) and had too much dust in the engine bay. Next for me is installing the aux battery, which will be really close to the compressor, but I feel like I still need to wire it to the starter battery. I dont have the dual, so I only max out at 40amps. I think just wiring it directly to the starter with a large gauge cable.
Good point. Never thought about it! Now, a system that you just connect your two front wheels and after your back wheels at the same time, would be lovely as well!!
You've already got a compressor tank Your tray roll bar !. Probably hold 20 litres or more. Get someone to build it for materials only and let them have the idea to develop for general manufacture and sale. No added weight.
I love watching your videos, Andrew, I think you maybe get just a little bit more fun designing and building than using the vehicles afterwards. The thought that goes into every aspect of the construction is something to watch. I don't know how many vehicles you've bought, modified, trialled and inspected but it looks as though you treat it as an opportunity to see if you can make or do anything better than the last time. No matter how many times you may have done that thing before. I just love the attention to detail. You seem like a perfectionist but one that knows perfection cannot be obtained but you'll do whatever you can to reach it.
Please, don't stop.
Thinking process and using the comments advice gives you a great way before settling on your final installation. Take your time but be sure saves you from I should or could have... I will go for close to the battery, comp and tank below if you have space with a out side hose plug. No rooting for air and cable lines or wear and tear etc. To keep it simple is the best. Thanks for sharing!
laugh so hard watching you get excited about truck parts lmao bless your honest ways
I personally think your overthinking the whole disconnect switch to your charging setup. You will be stunned how fast that lithium bank will charge up, especially if you are running any sort of solar again. Yes 60amps is a lot of current, but it isn’t a lot of current for very long. You are better suited to just make a habit of starting that air compressor up after you leave camp so the tanks are full when you get to asphalt. With the dual compressor and two tanks your tires will be full in very short order. 60amps is also probably peak output, for that last bit of struggle to get your tanks to max pressure. Also, carry a cap for that split in between the two tanks in case one ruptures.
Will the compressor tank need a protective bash plate ??
Always a good policy, imagine being under a vehicle being pelted with stones year after year. Its a bit like bull bar lights , should always have some garden hose over the cables . I laugh at the dumb electricians who nearly always place the trailer plug as the lowest thing on the vehicle . Mount them above the tow hitch ffs , even if you have to lenghten the cable. Look @ how semis, and trailers have a helper spring to guide cables and air hose. A little bit extra done @ home is better than doing a lot in the bush
I like the way how are you demonstrate things 👌 , good luck
I do agree I have 2 boss px07 and I now use I carry a rattle gun but I do change my tyre pressure regularly on different grounds is the reason why I got the bigger compressors and never looked back
I have a PX07 as my back-up compressor....I rely mainly on the Endless Air 9cfm pump which is about 4 times better than the PX07. They are a great compressor with 100% duty cycle, but like the ARB jobbie, they do draw a lot of current.
80 amps is current, not 80 amp.hour. Then 80amps times 12v is near 1,000 watts power. Cheers.
I thought it was only me shouting at the monitor "It's amps! Not amp-hours!"
@@Y.D.M.P : edit needed, Amp/h doesn't exist. it is Amp.hr (Ah) lol...
Ah is used because the battery is "assumed" to be 12V nominal.... and traditionally people had Amp meters not Watt meters..
Michael Mears Yes me too..
I miss spoke. I do understand the difference. That pump can drawer 70 amps at full load.
@@DuncanMargetts Yep, I got told I was confused when I pointed this out on another video.
Running a single arb and no tank but having 8 tyres to do I wish I bought a double Great stuff mate
Andrew, You're over thinking it mate.
Take the power for the compressor off the same cable that feeds the DC-DC... Simple.
While the compressor is running, the DC-DC might be getting a little less power, but it's only for a few minutes, and the alternator will have the voltage at 13.x volts.
Obviously fusing it directly off the big cable (which itself is fused at the battery). Thin trigger wire to the switch, and you're done. No reason you can't wire a second switch in the back.
What size cable and fuse would you need to run a dc charger and compressor on the same cable?Big thats what.40 amp fuse for compressor + 30 amp fuse for 25 amp dc charger = 80 amp maxi fuse.3 awg cable.Big.
The very first item in the ARB 4L Air tank installation guide says to mount the tank so the outlet is closest to the ground to avoid moisture accumulation. You have plenty of room behind that tool box to mount the cylinder vertical. Not doing so, moisture will collect in the tank and reduce the capacity to 50% over time. Love your videos Andrew and i see you driving around now and then. Keep up the good work!
Yes 100% you must mount upright so you can drain the tank otherwise the pipe connections rust out and block after even minimum usage! I had to take mine back to ARB a week ago for this very reason!
It’s almost certain that the way they installed this tank will mean it will rust out
Andrew,
you are using ARB gear, so you should try to use ARB LINX instead of filling your cockpit with massive number of switches.
I fitted ARB Linx to my Defender and connected with ARB double compressor and ARB front and rear difflocks. It works perfect together and I don t have many additional switches. You really should try it as you use also fridges and additional batteries.
8L still seems like a small tank capacity for a >1 horsepower air compressor. I took one of those dual compressors on a job that required a lot of air and they overheat until the (quite expensive) fuse pops after running continuously for around 15min or stop starting for about 35 min if it is able to pump a tank up to a reasonable pressure and therefore shut down for longer say run 5min stop 5min it never overheated. If you are taking it to a sensible pressure that beast can fill a 4L tank in no time.
You are also right about being worried about voltage drop we had to run it on 1000A jumper leads or the voltage drop over 5m was too much and it ran crap and overheated (and melted the 400 amp rated cables we tried first.)
Glen Collins - with 100% duty cycle like the ARBs, you shouldn’t have an issue and a tank is not needed at all for tires.
You know how some people think twin stack exhausts on something that isn't an American truck is a good idea? Twin air tanks is the next must have thanks to you Andrew. 😜
I love it!! I can fit two tanks..... No, I don't need two tanks.......I'm going to fit two tanks!!!! Haha, awesome video!! Really enjoy your content Andrew
I found out (a long time ago) with aa building site compressor that it doesn't matter how much air hose you have as long as the compressor is close to it's power source. This is because, as you stated, it there is current drop if the power source is too far away but the hose does not lose pressure despite having a longer length.
Is it safe to assume that the same rules apply here?
Can you accoustically insulate the compressor if it is in the cockpit of the 4by to reduce the noise effect on passengers?
Lastly, when I bought my 100 Series, the compressor was already fitted but, in a position where I often bump it with my knee when exiting the vehicle so, that might be an inportant consideration for you too, Andrew.
Tell the passengers to get out.
When I do any thing with tyres the passengers are told, "everybody out " Have seen where people have rocked round and the jack toppled. anyway just how noisy is a compressor and 99.9% of V8's have a hoon exhausts. If ya can hear the comp ypu know its running IMHO
With regard to the location of the compressor, I am using Viair compressor that comes with a tank. The compressor suction inlet can be connected to a hose and filter that can be routed to the inside of the car. So you can easily install the compressor in the engine bay and not worry about sucking dust or hot air. Try to configure your ARB that way … It may work
XO also played with where to put compressor on Gladiator.
Aftermarket in 90's put compressors in rear of GM F bodies like Pontiac Trans Am.
Good idea but I think just running a intake line into the cab and having the compressor in the tool box will fix noise problems and putting bushes in the bolts to the tray above the toolbox can reduce vibration.
I am very impressed by the battery bank storage
Hi Andrew, I have 2 x 100Ah Lithium batteries ad a Redarc 40A charger. I have run these batteries flat and still then powered the compressor off them with the car started. I will note that it did sound down on power, at which point the engaged my 'self jumpstart' switch which links the AUX and starter battery (to bypass the charger). The difference in my setup is that i have two alternators; i expect with one alternator you would need to bump up the RPM to increase current output.
wow 2 chargers, KISS for me . Years back a mate had an old 80 series with a u/s air con sys but the comp still worked , so he used that. Just put a few squirts of peanut oil in the A/C comp inlet every few months
It might be possible to use a push button switch with a latching circuit. wire the latching circuit to the hand break so when the hand break is released the system de activates and feeds power to the other systems at the back. I've seen magnetic contactors used on many of the trucks at work. Hope this helps
Why not in the engine bay with the compressor airtake connected to the engine air intake after the air filter? With a one way valve? Won't be fighting the engine for air if the engine is at idle.
Good morning Andrew
I am truly enjoying the Variety Videos that You have Invested such enormous effort( & ofcourse Financial) to create - Emmense Gratitude.
On this Specific Video.
I was glued.
The privilege of being audience to the Trail of thought, simply priceless.
I am looking forward to the Solution that You will settle on.
Again. Emmense gratitude.
Keep Up these Video please.
In reality having an air tank or multiple air tanks would not necessarily pump your tyre up faster because first you must fill the tank up. You are still reliant on how much air the compressor put out . All an air tank does is give you greater volume ideal for blowing / tools etc .
SO true , and not that barmy .LOL
Maybe these guys start the compressor hours in advance of when they need it ????
So many experts in the comments. Lets wait and see. I'm sure Andrew will develop a system that we would all love to have in our rigs.
Hi Andrew, Do not be concerned about the comments regarding the compressor. On my most recent build I have a single ARB compressor in the cab running off my 125aH lithium with a 40A DCDC charger. Compressor performs very, very similarly at idle and with engine off. The lithium batteries handle high current draw extraordinarily well. When the folks commenting first experience a lithium battery they will then realise how ridiculous they sound.
A question (apologies if I have missed it along the way), which rim/tyre combination size have you decided on? 285/75R16 and to a lesser extent 285/70R17 seem to be very easy to come by Australia wide
Great video!
How long air tank need to refill after filling the first tire ?
Andrew, where did you get the Toyota compatible ARB compressor switch?
Hey mate, our work cruisers have them fitted to the engine air intake. No issues
Thinking out loud 😁😁😁
Does totally opposite to what he thinks at times ....confusing at times ....but very informative....loved it
Excellent demonstration of the thought-process that should go into planning this stuff.
Maybe worth pointing out that another consideration would be the presence of air-locking diff's. Not much point in fitting the compressor's switch somewhere obscure and then realising it means you can't start the compressor when you need it to engage your diff' locks.
On a similar note, I was wondering how you wired up your electrical water heater?
A 300w heating element draws >20Amps.
You probably don't want it running directly off your starter battery or you'll end-up with a flat battery after a few days camping but a 20A draw on an AGM battery is kind of high (IMO).
Ideally, the heater will be used when the vehicle is running (which'd mean it'll be okay to run off the starter battery) but there'll also be times when it's used while camping too.
I was actually wondering about fitting a switch to allow the heater to draw power from either battery but, as Andrew notes, you then really need some kind of glaringly-obvious indicator to ensure you don't leave the switch in the wrong position and accidentally suck a heap of juice out of the "wrong" battery.
Honestly, I wonder if the simplest solution might be to wire the water-heater up to the starter battery and then just put a sticker next to the water-heater switch saying something like "Use only with engine running"
Decisions, decisions!
How about a little light illuminating above the rear seat when there is power to the air compressor.
Already mounted.
Why not put it under the tray but have it pull air from inside the cabin?
Andrew, will you be fitting a canopy? Would you consider mounting your compressor in there?
Yes. But it will be able to be removed, so I want it permanently mounted in the vehicle.
The Dream Build for sure :-) I'm not sure how often a compressor is need in Australia? (I've driven there, and mastered the Melbourne Hook Turn, but not spent any time off-road). My experience in southern Africa is that you need to get somewhere on tar (like up the N7 from CT to Windhoek) and then you are off-piste for what could be weeks, with lower tyre pressures.
Then, a week or more later, you get back on tar and want to pump up. Speed of inflation is never an issue for me, because in my top five Africa driving rules (Never drive at night being #1) is Never Be In a Hurry. Bad things happen when you rush. Saving ten minutes on reinflating tyres is inconsequential.
I've been using the same old Vyair compressor in a bag for a decade. Does the job. I connect it to Anderson winch connectors (receiver-mount winch) that are installed front and rear, so the cables are there when needed. But you know you can just drive slowly on tar - to the petrol station that will be there. It depends on how aired-far down you are, but another channel I watch has a guy who recovers stuck vehicles in Utah driving an hour on tar to get to his customers, tugging them out and then driving back on tar - all at 9 psi...
Love rule #1 Never at night. and yet so many have enough candle power to light up a run way. Once I wanted to get back to town and made the mistake of driving at night. Came into a creek crossing and drove over a shadow , a dark spot, which turned out to be a huge flat, but upward rounded stone, big enough to jack all 4 wheels off the ground. Spent a few hours trying to get free, went to sleep and took most of the next day carrying in stones to put under the wheels, big enough not to get spat out. Last time I ever drove an unknown track at night. Also black rouge bulls make black ARB bull bars look like plastic . We have WRITE OFF troopy as a result . looks like it had been dragged side on by a dozer and then pushed front on into a big tree . The bonnet had to be cut of with grinder to salvage the OK motor
I support everyone's right to a preference and an opinion. Mine is that offloading/overlanding has become an overpriced industry and all the bits of kit being produced render us little boys playing with all our little toys. All this unnecessary complication is about money being generated into the 4x4 market and making some people rich. I have a fairly cheap Chinese compressor that connects to my starter battery and it has served its purpose simply and reliably since 2007. It will probably come to pass that I will need to replace my compressor and I will go the same route, costing a tenth of the price and a tenth of the angst generated by all this fuss and complication. Offroading/overlanding has always meant leaving behind the luxuries and complexities in my home in the city and relaxing in simplicity of style and purpose in the bush. I've never needed more and have had the privilege of travelling to some pretty remote places in Africa over the years. Sometimes I just think we need to re-prioritize.
I agree with you. Completely. But doing cool stuff with my 4x4 and presenting it is my job. If I wasn't doing this, Id probably go for something a lot simpler. But make no mistake, people love this stuff. And so do I.
Of course! I absolutely understand your perspective and support you in it. I have been watching your videos, bought your DVD's and bought your books from almost two decades ago. And will continue to do so.
For some 5 star is the Hilton, for me its the Southern Cross and the night sky , not neons and traffic lights
You can use a hose with a filter on the end for your air compressor intake. Route that inside the vehicle and keep the compressor outside. That's how mine is set up, I'm surprised the Arb doesn't come with such a thing.
Hi Andrew, I would place a large solenoid on the wire that feeds from the main battery to the rear panel and have it wired to the compressor switch, once you turn on the compressor, it will connect to both batteries.
11:44 when you remember what passion for a car really feels like.. good ol troop carrier.
The compressor will draw 80 amps Andrew as soon as soon as it is turned on, the hour bit generally relates to battery capacity only in technical terms. But yes if you run the compressor only it will draw around or less than 80 amps every hour it runs.
Hi Andrew - having a bit of a binge watch at the moment. However did you consider gre Clearview Spider when considering inflating / deflating systems. My knees are starting to kick against kneeling next to my wheels while transitioning and am considering g the spider. Did you look at it?
Regards
Good to see you moving g forward and keeping us entertained...good info
Just extend and run the air comps air filter into the cab.
ARB, even make that a selling point for these compressors. As long as the air inlet is piped somewhere clean the compressor can run in water / mud / dust.
I have almost the exact same setup in my 79 (minus the tank) - works very well
for any ARB compressor is necessary to install air reservoir tank?
hey Andrew ,
you can actually get an extension kit for the fiters of the arb compressor
actually a snorkel original from arb
Can you just run it off your aux battery that is charged with a DC to DC charger and run the vehicle while using the compressor. Wouldn't the DC to DC charger not be running the compressor like the alternator would be?
Excellent video, very informative. Thanks for the effort!
Been following the channel when I can. Just seen your thoughts re compressor and battery choice. I am no expert but what is the current draw you said 80amps earlier on and then towards end you said 40amps. I haven’t looked at the Lithium spec of your batteries but better check what Cell Rating / Energy Density I am guessing given the price they might be 0.5C so if 80 amps continuous draw that’s too high for that battery. You did say under bonnet close to starter battery . Yep good idea and can I suggest you run an additional secondary cylinder style air filter to the compressor air intakes and mount it high up. I have seen some run it to air box filter but risky better to do seperate filter. Anyway will watch to see what you do, as we never stop learning. Cheers MATG
They run 1C continuous, or 100amps.
One Man Trail thanks for the heads up, being 1C then that’ should be enough, should he decide to use the Lithums to be the supply power source, not what I would do for day to day operation I would be more incline to use the alternator and starter battery system.
It sounds and now looks like it was pissing down rain how nice
I know I am a bit of a dill when it comes to this stuff but why do you need a tank for the compressor. I have been using compressoers for years without one and can't work out why I would need one? If it is only to speed things up then I don't think I will be getting one.
The way a compressor works. Is that is will pump air into you tire. The better and faster the compressor. The faster they inflate. (That's logical)
With an air tank, you can fill it full of air with high pressure. So therotically, you can have a crappy compressor that pumps the air tank. But because you have an air tank, you have that pressure built up. And it will fill up the tire extremely quick.
If you have big tyres, and will be dropping them down to very low psi. And pumping them up to decent psi. This process can take alot of time. A bigger compressor would make it quicker. But then adding an air tank, you don't have to pump air, as you allready have air. And it becomes extremely quick.
Most people probably don't need this compressor or air tank. But it is available for those who do.
@@ethan928 Yep, and also if you want to run air tools.
@@philipjooste9075 that too ahaha forgot about that
What else can we waste money on. I worked in a caravan park here in the Kimberley for a couple of seasons loved to watch the toys roll in $238.000 Chevs with $100K fit outs including superchargers, pulling $350K extensible trailers. If ya got it ya got it
Andrew, I gotta say, I think you'll be just fine on the lithiums. I run my ARB Elements fridge, ARB twin compressor, a 1500w inverter, and all my camp lighting while charging camera batteries all off one 100ah lithium and 200w of solar feeding it and I've never been lacking for power during 6 week trips. You'll have double that, you're gonna be golden!
If air is a requirment, wouldn't it be simpler to have a belt driven unit with a magnetic clutch, like an AC compressor ?
Andrew you should look into the ARB Links system
Any videos on your tires and why you chose this particular set?
For the question of which batteries to use. I wired each side of the compressor to its own 80A change-over relays. When the engine is running, its switched to starter/alternator. When it's not, it's off the auxiliary lithium battery in the rear where the compressor itself is mounted.
jaydeeautocables.com.au/collections/heavy-duty-relays/products/maxi-relays
As for fitting a second tank, just fit a single 9L tank. The Air-on-board branded ones are under $100.
I have the ARB Twin & a 9L tank fitted in a Nissan Pathfinder. They're a great physical size & would easily fit where you mounted the 4L ARB one.
Now I have twin air lockers, Airbagman bags in the rear & use it for my tires / basic air tools, so I opted for a larger tank to reduce the duty cycle of the compressor, as it's in the cab, but it's awesome!
www.aironboard.com.au/store/products/tanks/9-litre-steel-air-tank.html
Why not the pellycase, arb twin compressor set. Comes with the tank, the right cables. It is watertight so you can store it everywhere, you can use whatever battery available. You can even help your friends by taken the compressor use there batteries. If you switch between different cars you take the compressor tight it down and ready to go..
I understand your concern with voltage drop, but you also have pressure drop in the lines. So when you make one line shorter the other gets longer.
When you move the pump away from the battery you make your hard lines linger. Plus your attaching separate tanks. Like wires the lines have resistance causing you to use more power to pump up the tanks.
Wrong , pressure acts equally in all directions, but flow is a different thing
4:45 - 5:25 the thinking process 😂
Did you consider a belt driven compressor? I don't know how much room is in a LC engine bay , but I have one fitted to my 2015 Prado with a 10 litre air tank and it works a treat..very fast and also great for blowing out air filter elements, and no problems with batteries and charging..all up $1650, which is expensive.
Is it basically like an a/c pump?
@@JS-tb9hu More or less , but has a grease nipple for lubrication and is purpose built by a Coy. named Endless Air..I bought the unit and bracket , did the hoses and out let myself and had an Auto Electrician do the wiring to a switch in the cab
I figure, if you are going to overkill on air compressor, get two - you can then pump two tyres at a time and have a spare should one fail. The tank is nice, but my experience has been that it doesn't add that much when you are pumping tyres. Perhaps with what you've already fitted Andrew, you can fit a second quick connect to the tank so you can pump two tyres at a time?
I look forward to seeing your solution!
Why would you install 2, four litre air tanks instead of maybe, one 10 litre air tank? (If you had the room)
Viktor Sligo the point Ethan is trying to make is that if there is space for two 4L tanks then there is clearly room for one larger tank that would be more size and space efficient.