Bought my DBB about 6 years ago to replace the Trend router jigs, and I've been using the smaller diameter plunging cutters to do tubular latches for a while. They work well. Last week I got hold of the 29 and 32mm plunging cutters so that I could install a number of Perko (Correction: they are Astras, see below) tubular closers - the large 4000 series ones with the 280mm long body. Fire rated ones need a 31/32mm diameter hole, non-fire rated a 29mm hole. I've now installed six Astra 4000s into brand new solid oak doors, with varying thicknesses between 42mm and 64mm, as well as redrilling one door to 32mm where a colleague had inadvertently drilled the door at 29mm and couldn't figure out how to safely redrill to 32mm. This has always been a twitchy sort of job to do because you only have 6 to 7mm of timber between the hole and the face of the door, so even a couple of degrees out and you risk drilling out the side of the door - not a good idea with £2k plus doors! On chipboard core doors and softwood doors I find I can use a heavy cordless drill (Makita DHP481/DHP484) without problems - solid oak doors are somewhat harder to do and I'm happier with a corded drill on the 29 and 32mm holes Well done Souber for a great piece of kit!
Glad to have helped you in your problem. However, the closers you mentioned were not Perko's but would have been the Astra Closer. Samuel Heath would have something to say about that as they make the Perko closer.
Hi Phil Agreed, that Cordless drills have improved. The requirement is a drill with 2500-3000rpm. Only a few Cordless Drills can do this. So, if you have a cordless which can do those speeds that might be acceptable. But, it must have a 13mm Chuck and not be too heavy. Heavy Drills can cause operating difficulties.
I have recently purchased one of these jigs and I’m really impressed with it , easy to set up and use .
Bought my DBB about 6 years ago to replace the Trend router jigs, and I've been using the smaller diameter plunging cutters to do tubular latches for a while. They work well. Last week I got hold of the 29 and 32mm plunging cutters so that I could install a number of Perko (Correction: they are Astras, see below) tubular closers - the large 4000 series ones with the 280mm long body. Fire rated ones need a 31/32mm diameter hole, non-fire rated a 29mm hole.
I've now installed six Astra 4000s into brand new solid oak doors, with varying thicknesses between 42mm and 64mm, as well as redrilling one door to 32mm where a colleague had inadvertently drilled the door at 29mm and couldn't figure out how to safely redrill to 32mm. This has always been a twitchy sort of job to do because you only have 6 to 7mm of timber between the hole and the face of the door, so even a couple of degrees out and you risk drilling out the side of the door - not a good idea with £2k plus doors!
On chipboard core doors and softwood doors I find I can use a heavy cordless drill (Makita DHP481/DHP484) without problems - solid oak doors are somewhat harder to do and I'm happier with a corded drill on the 29 and 32mm holes
Well done Souber for a great piece of kit!
Glad to have helped you in your problem. However, the closers you mentioned were not Perko's but would have been the Astra Closer. Samuel Heath would have something to say about that as they make the Perko closer.
@@SouberTools Yes, indeed. We tend to call all these things by the generic name, a bit like Hoovers.
I’m curious why Paul doesn’t recommend cordless? I realize this was 7 years ago but what is the limit of cordless vs corded?
Hi Phil Agreed, that Cordless drills have improved. The requirement is a drill with 2500-3000rpm. Only a few Cordless Drills can do this. So, if you have a cordless which can do those speeds that might be acceptable. But, it must have a 13mm Chuck and not be too heavy. Heavy Drills can cause operating difficulties.
Paul is the man :-)
@Marcel Noel definitely, have been using flixzone} for months myself :)