My Clake One Light clutch had started to play up, so it came time for a strip down to see what was going wrong. This is not a step by step guide to anything, I just took video of what I did.
I just did similar. Bought 2nd hand. Only a bit of surface rust in mine, so bearings ok. Greased mine up with ACF50 grease (corrosion blocker). The case can be split by getting a knife in there and twisting. Thanks for posting vid.
All good again. When the motor was getting rebuilt, I did the full service again and replaced the bearings and installed the longer hose (on the Beta, its best to get a slightly longer hose, the stock one is a fraction short). I rate the Clake system very highly, changed my riding completely.
I find throwing tools strangely therapeutic! They should build rubber 'dummyspit' tool set you can have in your shed to save your good tools from ending up down the driveway somewhere. 😅 Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. Just got mine installed and it feels great. Thanks for the tip about the water entry point. I might put a little grease there to act as a dam.
Had same prob. Changed bearings and took measurements. I find that the prices are absurd for bearings. That bottom bearing was same condition. Did like you but I replaced it has when you put force on it, it unhibits the lever to comeback easily.
From memory, all clips were either 'e' clips or spring clips which you don't need special tools for. Everything in mine was hard to disassemble due to how much corrosion had gone on.
I just faced same broblem what you have. After opening bottom cover, noticed that there was also watter leak and bearings was rusty. I can clean and grease small ones, but must change main bottom bearing, that was totally stuck. I think you change also this bearing. But did you change also main upper bearing, wich is in other side? Can’t get this arm out, to see how this upper bearing look’s
Bleed, bleed, bleed. They are very hard to get all the air out. Reverse bleed if you can, rotate resivour on the best so holes are at the highest point.
@@gumbyenduroadventures6225 figured out the issue.... i bled it like crazy and made sure air was out. Wet clutch bathed in cold thick oil is natural going to have some excess friction. I let it warm up to full operating temp to check for leaks around the new slave, and all is well again, nothing more than the typical light drag.
Thanks for the video and tips 1. There is no specific position to reassemble the lever after dissemblable all the components ? 2. Do you procede a reverse bleeding with a syringe and the tradionnal methode of Clake ? Thanks AD
1. Personal choice, how big your fingers and hands are. Set lever to preferred position, then nip up friction bolt. 2. Reverse bleed with syringe makes bleeding quicker, but finish off with clake method to get very last bits of air out of system.
I just did similar. Bought 2nd hand. Only a bit of surface rust in mine, so bearings ok. Greased mine up with ACF50 grease (corrosion blocker). The case can be split by getting a knife in there and twisting.
Thanks for posting vid.
Yeah, my bearing was so bad, the case was really tough to split. Enjoy the Clake!
Thank you so much!!! How old was this one light clutch thats in this video (how many hours on it)?
Hi mate, this clutch had close to 75 hours on it. Not bad given the jet wash abuse!
So how’s the Clake doing?
Did you replace the bearings?
I just ordered a Clake, can’t wait.
All good again. When the motor was getting rebuilt, I did the full service again and replaced the bearings and installed the longer hose (on the Beta, its best to get a slightly longer hose, the stock one is a fraction short). I rate the Clake system very highly, changed my riding completely.
fuck yes, thank you
Welcome.
I was so stoked for u when you found the screw. I dropped mine today and finally found it after throwing some tools
I find throwing tools strangely therapeutic! They should build rubber 'dummyspit' tool set you can have in your shed to save your good tools from ending up down the driveway somewhere. 😅
Thanks for the comment 👍
Do they make different cam profiles for the One Light. Mine has U5 stamped on it.
Nah, as far as I know the adjustment screw is the only 'tunable' bit. No sign of different profiles in their spare parts offerings either.
Omg get a room...... lol
Great video. Just got mine installed and it feels great. Thanks for the tip about the water entry point. I might put a little grease there to act as a dam.
Had same prob. Changed bearings and took measurements. I find that the prices are absurd for bearings.
That bottom bearing was same condition. Did like you but I replaced it has when you put force on it, it unhibits the lever to comeback easily.
Was the clip holding the bearing easy to remove?
From memory, all clips were either 'e' clips or spring clips which you don't need special tools for. Everything in mine was hard to disassemble due to how much corrosion had gone on.
I just faced same broblem what you have. After opening bottom cover, noticed that there was also watter leak and bearings was rusty.
I can clean and grease small ones, but must change main bottom bearing, that was totally stuck. I think you change also this bearing. But did you change also main upper bearing, wich is in other side?
Can’t get this arm out, to see how this upper bearing look’s
Is the “force balance adjustment” the clutch adjustment too? I can’t get mine to work. Lever is all the way in but gear is still engaged.
Bleed, bleed, bleed. They are very hard to get all the air out. Reverse bleed if you can, rotate resivour on the best so holes are at the highest point.
@@gumbyenduroadventures6225 figured out the issue.... i bled it like crazy and made sure air was out.
Wet clutch bathed in cold thick oil is natural going to have some excess friction. I let it warm up to full operating temp to check for leaks around the new slave, and all is well again, nothing more than the typical light drag.
Hahaha, yeah I have a Beta, i gave up trying to find neutral pretty quickly! Clutch drag is just part if life now. Glad you got it sorted.
howdy thanks for the vid , did you get the size of the bearing and how did you get the old bearing out ? mine is stuffed .....
Thanks for the video and tips
1. There is no specific position to reassemble the lever after dissemblable all the components ?
2. Do you procede a reverse bleeding with a syringe and the tradionnal methode of Clake ?
Thanks
AD
1. Personal choice, how big your fingers and hands are. Set lever to preferred position, then nip up friction bolt.
2. Reverse bleed with syringe makes bleeding quicker, but finish off with clake method to get very last bits of air out of system.