I've been feeling really disappointed in myself with my current dog walk progress but hearing you say those kind words at the end actually got to me. Thanks for the reinforcement. All we can do is keep trying our best ✨
I am a first time dog owner, but I’m trying to learn as much as possible to help my dog as much as possible. She went from reacting to dogs so severely and so often that I had thought it would be better to rehome her (because I thought I was doing horribly) To being able to walk a few meters behind 4 dogs with her worst reaction being a growl (because she was startled) So yeah, this does work, and it’s an amazing feeling to slowly see a dog go from insecure and fearful to confident and trusting in you
Idk who would still be here but I’m the same person on a different acc lol Grace (the dog I was talking about here) is doing pretty great with other dogs! So much so that we’ve been able to adopt two more. A small female yorkie, and a large male gsd. She’s done great with both, albeit a bit nervous at first. Keep trying, it’s worth it.
Since the pandemic started, my dog has reversed on their training and become more reactive because we have been inside all the time. It's been really frustrating as of late and I really feel defeated over it. I literally don't know what to do to make it better, so when I saw your dog lunge as mine has been lately, it helped me realize I am not the only one going through this. Thanks for the tips and for letting me rant.
This is an awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to actually counter condition and desensitize your dog to other dogs rather than correct him for being nervous! I think your timing is great, but if you don’t mind I’d like to make a tiny recommendation! (I realize I’m a year late so you may have already noticed this!) The clicker is a marker for the dog doing something he should be doing, so whatever he is doing when you click, he will think is the correct decision in that moment! Instead of clicking when he’s staring at another dog (which is telling him that his hyper fixation is a good thing) you could try saying his name in place of the clicking, and then clicking the moment he willingly disengages from the dog! This way you’re rewarding his choice to ignore the dog, rather than rewarding him staring at the dog! Your concept is exactly right for this style of training, but that small change might make a big difference in his overall engagement with you near other dogs! I hope I’m not coming across as rude or disrespectful, this is an awesome video and you’re an incredible owner for taking this time with him! ❤️
Thanks so much Jessica - you're not coming off as disrespectful at all :) Remy and I have (since this video) transitioned to clicking only for disengaging from the trigger. Check out our "11 Reactive Dog Training Tips" video to see how we've progressed! I've consulted with a few different trainers on reactivity, and they're the ones who initially suggested starting out by using the clicker more as a disengagement tool than a reward - so, once the clicker is associated with treats, clicking to distract the dog as a way to encourage them to break their focus from the trigger. This does seem to be a strategy plenty of reactivity-based trainers use, but I've also gotten a lot of comments on this video suggesting this method isn't ideal. However, it's hard to know if the average commenter on this video really has much knowledge about working with reactive dogs. Anyhow, I used that method when Remy was really struggling to disengage. He's gotten a lot better, so now we only click and disengagement. I agree that's probably the ideal way to use the clicker! Thank you for the kind words, and do make sure to check out our other reactivity video if you're curious about how Remy is doing now!
Love the humility. I am fostering a 4 month old pup. Some training has gone well, but I get really discouraged when it doesn't. Additionally, after 3 consulations 😢 we know his back leg needs to be amputated due to a serious break that was not given medical care. Physical therapy and acupuncture will not be enough. So factoring in his current disability makes it more complicated. Thank you for your patience!
I do understand leash reactivity as this was me and my dog for a while. So I feel you here and appreciate this video. Through plenty of training, reactivity is no longer an issue for me & I noticed that everything in this video is wrong. For one, as soon as you saw this other dog you were already on guard and prepared to create distance, even if that means going into someone else's driveway. We do need distance of course but the most important thing is not so much high value treats but the relationship between you and your dog. I needed to go back to basics and focus on a more structured walk, i needed to repair our relationship and build the bond and trust between us. I was sure never to click and treat when my dog was fixating on another (as you did.. this only rewards the fixation and in the end your dog had no interest in the reward anyway) , I marked and rewarded when my dog broke eye contact. I do appreciate this video though and the fact that you'd be working hard to help your dog so a huge Thank You for sharing your story xx
Hey there - thanks for the comment! You'll note the video is about what NOT to do when reactive dog training so yes, I am showing mistakes here. However, I'll have to respectively disagree with what you consider a mistake. Creating distance and using high-value treats is essential to working on reactivity, there is no way around it. You are quite vague about your language when it comes to building your relationship with your dog, but a dog's reactivity is about their response to other dogs, not to you. With reactivity, starting with clicking while your dog is looking at another dog is actually a great place to start. It is building the connection that other dogs are a good thing and result in treats. This is key for reactive dogs who are afraid of other dogs. Clicking also actually helps get your dog in the habit of disengaging and looking at you, which is what you reinforce later as your dog gets better at dealing with other dogs. When your dog has no interest in the reward, it is not because the food is not a good motivator - it's because the dog is over threshold and needs more space. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you were able to work on your own dog's reactivity. Check out our follow-up video to see where we are now! ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html
This is how our walks can be. My husky has been ambushed so many times by little dogs that every dog is a threat now. I've asked other dog walkers to not continue toward us because she's reactive, and one person told me "that's not my problem control your dog". I told her "Clearly you're not concerned about your dogs safety". I know it won't be fixed over night but I live in an apartment so they are everywhere.
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
This was encouraging to me. Our 2 yr old Doodle has become quite reactive to other dogs. 15 minutes ago we came home and were in the front yard when there was a lady walking a small dog across the street. My dog went CRAZY barking and lunging. All 50 lbs of him. I was so discouraged because there is NO getting his attention when this happens and I feel like such a bad dog mom. I will continue to work on getting his attention in places where the dog is farther away.
Don't feel bad! It's basically impossible to get your dog's attention when he's over threshold. You have the right idea - start off with more distance and practice look at that / look at me and desensitization. A force-free / R+ training can help a lot too!
@@carolynlilly7445 It's really important to be able to control the distance. Even if that means going up into people's driveways or even yards if you have to. If you can't control the distance on walks, I'd suggest walking at times when you most likely won't encounter dogs, and then make specific trips to parks or areas with dogs where you can control the distance to work on desensitization. Otherwise you'll just set yourself up for failure. Of course sometimes the unexpected happens and dogs can pop up out of nowhere. This is where a "Yikes!" command can come in handy - teach your dog that "yikes" (or some other word) means that you turn around and quickly run back the other way. Start off by making it a fun game when another dog is not around. Say "Yikes!" and get your dog to turn around and run the other way, dispensing treats and praise. Repeat enough times on normal walks and the eventually when a dog pops up out of nowhere, your dog will be able to turn around and get out of dodge ASAP!
Im really glad you posted this video, my dog is super reactive like this, even more so. Every video it on youtube the dog seems to be way to calm. Its very hard to walk him with other dogs sometimes people. I appreciate it,
Thanks for the advice and the encouraging words. I've been doing well with my rescue Bloodhound, but she has some major leash reactivity in certain situations, aka when pedestrians walk towards us or with slower moving cars. So yesterday with the help of trainer we worked on the pedestrian thing really nicely (session ended badly when a slow moving car came towards us) but overall a good session. Today a friend came over and feeling confident after last night and a nice walk earlier in the morning, I wanted to practice what we worked on yesterday. Anyway, it went horribly. One of my mistakes was trying to take her out when she was on high alert in the first place (a visitor she's never met before). Lesson learned. I hope I didn't screw anything up in the long term. I want to go try and walk around later, so we will, but I gave her a Kong and a nice bone to try and chill out a little bit.
You sound like you've been working really hard. You should be super proud! We all have bad days or slip ups - it's totally normal and unavoidable. Remember, progress is never linear! Kudos to you for doing right by your dog and helping her as best you can. What more can a dog ask for?
@@K9ofMine Thanks! She still has those same problems, but strangely enough she was a total sweetheart at the vet today, even with other animals around, so I take every small win that I can get.
I have a few questions and I hope this doesn’t seem like hate. 1) if you want him to engage with you when a high distraction goes by, why do you allow him to walk ahead of you when there are no distractions instead of having him heel and teaching him a “focus” command? 2) why do use a harness? 3) when he sees another dog and stares, don’t you think by clicking you’re teaching him it’s ok to be focused on the dog? Ik that you want it to mean that since he isn’t reacting he gets a reward but that doesn’t seem to be what I saw happening as every time you rewarded him he went right back to staring almost like saying “ hey thanks for the snack but this dog is much more interesting so I’m going to go back to focusing on it now” I also own and have worked with many reactive dogs so i love watching videos of other people training their reactive dog(s)
Astallings 53 Hey there! Happy to answer your questions. 1) a heel command is a lot of work for a dog. It’s not really something you’re supposed to ask for all throughout a walk. It’s his walk too and he deserves to be able to sniff and engage with the world. As for the focus command, we do have a great “touch” but other dogs are too stimulating so he doesn’t respond in those cases. 2) Why would I not use a harness? The front clip is a handy option if I really can’t handle his pulling, and he has throat injuries due to his former owners who must have used a traditional collar with no training or a choke collar, as he begins to cough and choke the minute any tension is on his flat collar. Plus, he is pretty good at wiggling out of a flat collar leash, even a martingale. 3) The reward is for non-reactive behavior. It’s fine if he looks at the dog and then looks back at me. Heck, it’s fine if he just looks at the dog until I click. He is learning that there is a dog there, but I am even more worth paying attention to because I have hot dogs! It is rewiring his brain to realize that staying calm and paying attention to me when he sees other dogs get him hot dogs! I’m not a behaviorist but I’ve worked with several and this is the technique they teach when handling leash reactive dogs.
K9 of Mine 1) it’s definitely true that dogs deserve times to sniff and explore but I highly recommend having him in a heel and then have ig a designated area were he can sniff and wonder. Dogs thrive on structure and I was just confused on how you expected him to focus on you when there is a very high distraction when he doesn’t do that when there is no distraction. 2) I only asked as I don’t use harnesses and am always interested in others choice in tools 3) how is he learning that it’s worth paying attention to you when he literally takes the treat and right away goes back to staring at the dog? Even when you were waving the treat in front of his face. He took it, continued to stared at the dog and reacted. So it seems like you are rewarding him for staring (which is still a type of reaction) without meaning too as you are marking the staring and a click on the clicker means that the dog did something that you wanted it too. Another recommendation is that you strengthen your “touch” command and/or work on a “focus” command and mark and reward when he does those, move away if he gets over stimulated. I’ve worked with many reactive dogs that’s why this video was kinda confusing for me. As none of the many professionals I’ve worked with or talked to have done this training, but there are so many training methods out there🙂
Astallings 53 Hey there! So a few things - having a designated sniffing area would defeat the purpose of the walk. Walks are my dog’s time to sniff and explore. Keeping him in a heel the entire walk would be stressful and miserable for him. I wouldn’t do that to him. Also not sure why you think he doesn’t pay attention to me when there are not distractions around- he often does. All throughout our walks we do target/ touches. 3) Learning happens via repetition. He is being rewarded for looking at the dog and not reacting. The next level up from that is to click when he looks at the dog and looks away, back to me. He can do this with more distance. But in this situation we were too close. I am clicking and rewarding him for looking at the dog and not barking and lunging - that is the behavior I am rewarding. He is allowed to look at the dog. I’m really surprised you have worked with professionals and never seen this strategy. I’ve talked with certified animal behavior consultants, trainers, and watched many videos on dog reactivity and this is the exact method used. It’s not really anything new or unusual. The dog needs to learn to be able to look at the stimuli without reacting, and that’s what is being reinforced with this strategy. Hope that helps!
K9 of Mine 1) teaching a heel for reactive dogs has been incredibly successful for me as it adds to the structure of the walk and the dogs are focused on learning and successfully doing a heel to get a reward and a lot less focused on other dogs 3) sorry I meant I haven’t seen it done and it actually work. Thanks for your time. I love asking others training questions so I can fully understand what my clients have tried before (usually along the lines of what you’re doing) and tweak my training so I am able to help more dogs by seeing what works for others and what isn’t working. Again Thank you for your time. Have fun training!
You did great 😊. Tough situation there. I have a walk with narrow passes and sometimes it's unavoidable that you've got to muscle through. I've just got to remember to head back the way I came to open the distance.
Thank you. I think I will try this to calm my dog when meeting other dogs. My 7 months old pup gets extremely excited when he sees other dogs. Lunges on the leash, pulls towards them. he isn’t aggressive but he is not too sure of himself when interacting with new dogs. He is asking for play and showing that he is “bigger” at the same time - pumping up his confidence that way, I think. He is frantically jumping up and away from the dog he just met. Lot’s of dogs aren’t too happy about his energy and excitement and he is often ignoring their cues to back away, so he gets growled at 😅 sometimes he even gets spanked by them, so it isn’t really helping his confidence around other dogs. Some dogs totally ignore him and let him jump on their heads, others snap at him. I think this is why he is confused and doesn’t know how to behave when meeting other dogs. I don’t want it to escalate to fear aggression. I think teaching him he needs to be calm when interacting with unfamiliar dogs could help him great deal
Hey Ewa, truthfully my dog is very similar. Most dogs are reactive due to fear, but some dogs are what trainers refer to as "frustrated greeters". These dogs are SO worked up by other dogs and so excited to go say hello that they can't control themselves. As you've noted, the problem with this is that this very enthusiastic and oftentimes inappropriate behavior can make other dogs very nervous, as it's quite rude and pushy. It can also often result in the other dog biting since they are so uncomfortable with the situation! Teaching calmness around other dogs is definitely the way to go!
Oh I feel your pain! This has definitely happened to me and I have a large GSD...so it looks awful when she lunges and barks. Sometimes it's hard to create enough distance...and omg, the person not leaving! This happened to me once when I was training at a local park and I knew my dog, Layla had enough. Just as we were leaving, a person with a puppy came around the corner...I literally had to run into a person's front yard- and it wasn't a big front yard. I felt like telling the person- 'can you not see I'm struggling and please GO AWAY!' Today was a good day though... sunny Sunday morning and I wanted to take her on a long run, prepared to see a lot of dogs and she did great! I agree about the high value treats- my husband cuts up chicken neck pieces and I bring cheese bits with me. Chicken neck pieces are kept for very high value reward- or when a dog is directly across the street from us :)
Great video!!!!Very realistic.I say to my leash reactive dog when we spot another 🐕, "let's go" or "leave it" and we move in another/opposite direction where he can not visually see that other dog.The more he can see them,the more he gets worked up. if your dog is simply leash reactive but not dog aggressive,a good therapy is to have them play with other dogs off leash..in a controlled playgroup.
Seeing that other dog owner totally oblivious was so frustrating- I wish people payed more attention to what's going on around them. This video was great, and made me feel better about our morning. Passed a few dogs doing okay and then got stuck on one dog- their owner was also getting treats out and had them sit and watch us and both dogs just lost it. Its so hard for me to not freeze and panic, and it's surprisingly hard to manage a 55 lb dog that's pulling and lunging!
It can definitely be frustrating! I try to practice the "when in doubt, get more space" philosophy, but that can be pretty challenging depending on where you're walking.
I've watched several videos on this issue. I think you're actually doing the right thing compared to others. I haven't yet checked out your other videos to see if you had any follow ups. I use the same techniques.
Hi, thank you for this really helpful video. I have a rescue who was jumpy to begin with. Unfortunately, over lockdown it wasn't possible to get her spayed so I was very tense when dogs approached and she's become reactive. It's so frustrating when other dogs owners don't pay attention tho! This gives me hope. Thanks again.
This video is so great. Thank you for posting it. I'm struggling with one of my dogs. I think she may actually need medication in addition to continued training. But, regardless of that, seeing this made me feel so much better. I have been feeling as though I've been failing her as a mother. This made me realize that I can't be expected to be perfect either. Maddie and I will just keep working on it together.
I understand - it can be SO HARD working with a reactive dog. Hanging in there, and rest assured knowing that you are doing everything you can for your girl! She is lucky to have you as a dog mom :)
I could be wrong but I'm not sure it helps saying "good boy" right after he has barked and tried to lunge at the other dog is a great idea it gives of mixed messages and your almost rewarding him for his bad actions
Hey James! I might have already said this in a different comment, but I’m saying “good boy” when Remy breaks his focus and looks at me instead of the other dog. It’s really important to encourage the behavior you do want (him breaking focus from the dog to me) even if it comes after the dog goes over threshold. Of course it would have been better if he hasn’t reacted at all, but sometimes it happens! I still need to reward him for recovering.
Remy looks just like my dog and reacts to other dogs the same way! When we are too close to another dog, say we were turning a corner and encountered a dog, and it's too late so my dog begins to lunge. What's the best way to respond to that scenario? I know tensing up makes it worse but I instinctively tense up to pull him away. Is there anything I can or should do in that moment?
Hey Abe - what I would suggest is working on a "U-turn" or "Yikes!" command with your dog. Practice in low-stress environment like indoors, your driveway, or an empty street. Walk with your dog and say "Yikes!" (or your chosen command) and then immediately turn around and go back the way you came. Reward your dog when they turn and go back with you. Practice, practice, practice until your dog is a pro. Then - hopefully, when you turn a corner and see a dog, your dog won't mind turning tail and heading back with the "Yikes" command because he knows he'll get something tasty in return! I've been attending a Reactive Rover class and have been recording our class working on this, along with some other skills. I'll make sure to alert you about it when it's uploaded - hopefully next week or so. Good luck!
I think he was over threshold the from the beginning. Time to possibly re assess the "buffer zone" for Remy....Need more distance to start counter conditioning :) he's beautiful by the way. He lip licked on first click. It would be better to allow him to do what you want to do and not let him rehearse what you do not want.
I agree Kimberly, looking back on this video now, Remy was over threshold basically the entire time. Unfortunately it was impossible to get any more distance than we had going up the neighbor's driveway! Thankfully this video was from awhile ago, and his threshold has gotten much more manageable.
In the 6 years I had my labernese, she still has reactivuty to dogs but on shorter distance. I worked hard to manage her reactivity to be on a very short distance. I'd say that my dog would lunge and bark when another dog is a couple meters away from me and not on the other side of the street. I'll be working on my dog's reactivity on motorcycle and other animals as well. I'll never be on the cellphone while walking my dog and I am always trying to avoid loose leash dogs or dogs on retractable leash wich already makes incomfortable to be around or off leash dogs wich doesn't help with my dog's reactivity. Motorcycles are only out half the year because of winter. I wish that I knew how to dealt with this issues earlier as it would have been easier and probably faster.
I’m not a trainer, but I do work with dogs. Whenever you notice a dog staring at another dog or a person and fixating, you need to get their attention somehow and/or block their line of sight so they can’t stare. It’s the same way that you stop fence fighting
Yes, getting them to divert their focus and put their attention on you is the ultimate goal. But initially focusing on counter-conditioning at a distance works too (giving treats to dog even while they look at the dog to create positive associations). Make sure to check out our follow up video, we’ve come a long way!
Thanks for this video and for rescuing and sticking with a reactive dog. I just did the same thing. You mentioned there were loads of good videos out there on positive training for a reactive dog. Would you be willing to post links to some that you found most helpful?
Sure! KikoPup is a great resource: ua-cam.com/video/Eo-L2qtD7MQ/v-deo.html Here's another good one from KikoPup: ua-cam.com/video/cbhM4oKZjsE/v-deo.html This is another good one too: ua-cam.com/video/hyjyOpcAd9E/v-deo.html& I'd suggest avoiding anyone who advocates for prong collars and corrections, that strategy can really backfire and cause more aggression.
I think maybe click after He looks at you, so it is more of rewarding him paying attention to you instead of rewarding him for looking at the other dog. I am glad you are working on it with him. You are doing great!
Thank you! We’ve managed to work up to him disengaging and looking at me, but initially we just worked on rewarding for non barking/lunging and creating a good association w the other dog.
@@RobinFae6772 the name of this tool is "Click für Blick" as we call it in german. We don't click in the first step the view to the dog owner. We click first of all the view to the distraction. We reinforce every "green" behavior like viewing, sniffing and other. The result is, that we gonna be able to communicate with the dog in an emotional level:to change the exited /aggressive emotion to a calmer and positiver emotion. We also offer an alternative /exercise, for example like searching food or some lessons of obedience or a hand touch, that helps the dogs to hold themselves in an psychic secure and calm state.
No hate for anyone that rescues a dog and cares enough to train them, and I respect your ability to self-analyze. For the sake of dialogue though, I do feel like the clicking was pretty off. IMO you want to click at 2:08 and 2:14, when he stops laser focusing on the other dog and instead focuses on you. You were clicking as he stared at the other dog, essentially marking for him that focusing on the environmental object we want to desensitize him to was the right behavior. In my opinion this is also a matter of engagement (when he was dialed in you were saying his name/clicking with no response). To counter condition I would recommend a much more controlled environment where you aren’t dependent on a stranger not talking on his cell phone (something that is entirely out of your control and pretty normal for people to do).
Yeah, a lot of people have suggested that I'm rewarding Remy in this video for undesired behavior, but it's a pretty common strategy to use the clicker as a disengagement tool/distraction, especially early on in training when the dog can't disengage well themselves. Not everyone agrees with doing that, but it's not unusual at all and a pretty common technique for trainers. At this point trying to break Remy's focus with the clicker was my best bet, and just creating a positive association with strange dogs. As we progressed, I was able to only click to reward Remy for voluntarily disengaging, but that's not really Phase 1.
@@K9ofMine fair enough. You know Remy and what makes him tick infinitely better than any of us, and I recognize that. I just personally prefer primary reward to build positive association if they take it, but like you said he wasn’t even taking your treats because of the distance and type of treat, so the secondary was an interesting idea. Maybe someday I’ll find myself clicking in that scenario too, I just tend to have a different training plan that involves viewing a dog park or trail from a distance and using primary rewards. Then over the course of several days, getting closer and closer without flooding the dog, all the time with high value primary rewards and play. The idea being that seeing other dogs slowly becomes the best part of the day. When I am on a walk, I want the dog’s focus regardless of the environmental factor (it could be an elephant for all I care lol). I want his reaction to always be to look to me when encountering something new or scary. I think a lot depends on the dog and their personality too though, and that’s where your judgment with Remy trumps mine a hundred times over.
I totally agree, the situation you describe is what we aim for now. These days Remy only gets rewarded for looking at me and breaking his focus on the other dog. But this was really early in our training and at that time just building any kind of positive association w other dogs was my primary goal. Truthfully I think clicking just for observing the other dog is more appropriate for fear-based reactivity and not the best option for us because Remy’s reactivity is very much arousal/excitement based, but I didn’t really know that when this was filmed. And obviously this situation wasn’t great because I couldn’t get any more distance. I think hanging outside of a dog park at a distance is a great idea and in fact, I might make a habit of that this summer!
OMG, this video is me and my dog to a freaking tee! Just last week, we were standing back waiting for this lady and her dog to pass and she was just on her cell phone not even noticing me trying to keep my dog from having a meltdown. I finally had to let her know that we were waiting for her to pass so my dog doesn't attack her dog. She was totally clueless! I have been trying to practice the techniques in all these videos, but unfortunately, we're still struggling with leash aggression. Just this week, I fell flat on my face while my tricky dog escaped out of his harness and lunged at another dog. Weird thing is, once he was off the leash, he was just happily sniffing the other dog's butt. But my pride and my bruised knees paid the price. Thankfully the owner was nice. She was more worried about me than my crazy dog. Hopefully, my dog and I will both catch on soon.
It's tough for sure! My dog is similar - he's actually pretty good off leash but is a mess on leash. This is referred to generally as "frustrated greeter", where a lot of the reactivity comes from not being able to run over and say hello. I used to just let Remy dash over and say hi to other dogs on walks, but it's better to teach your dog to be calm around other dogs. Especially because it can be scary for the other dog to have my giant ultra-excited dog come barreling over to them. It's bad doggy manners!
Hi there, we just adopted a rescue dog Clifford and he reacts identical to Remy, but with some mid air barrel roles. Can you link your harness? We have one that also clicks to his collar which helps with leash biting, but would like a newer one. Also any tips for bringing him outside of a dog populated apartment smoothly? We work on sit, touch and eyes on me currently. Thank you!!
Hey Katelyn - the harness in this video actually broke after a couple of months, so now we use the Rabbitgoo harness (amzn.to/3vNVO9V) which has a back and front click option. We also have been using the 2Hounds Freedom Harness (amzn.to/3ep1aTc) lately and I'm a big fan of that one too! There are some pretty cool leashes out there that have chain for the last foot or so to help with leash biting, it might be worth looking into if that's your main issue. I totally know the struggle living in an apartment complex with a reactive dog! I used to be in a high-rise but thankfully was only on the 3rd floor so I could just hop down the stairs with Remy, thanks goodness. Hand targeting is a great way to keep your dog's focus. A good heel command might be helpful too. I'd also suggest having someone run defense and scope out your path before you exit, if possible. I've heard of some folks even carrying an umbrella or piece of cardboard to block their dog's sightline when needed. Just make sure you desensitize your own dog to those items if you plan on going that route!
I just started watching your videos! It's really helpful to see how you manage the situation. I will watch more and learn from them! I was wondering if reactivity of your dog is from fear or excitement(frustration)?
Hey Kay! I'm so glad you found this video helpful. Remy is definitely falls under the "frustrated greeter" category of reactivity. I even used to let him approach dogs on leash long before I realized what his issues were, since he'd drag me over to them in a frenzy. He has pretty poor emotional regulation!
Something like this happened to my dog a little while ago ;-; The owner walked in front of us with 4 dogs, all staring and pulling towards my dog, so she lunged (no surprise there, they were only a few feet ahead of her, and her general limit is 10 feet for multiple dogs) I then backed up, the owner sat there, then went around the cars next to us and right behind us, and one of the dogs would’ve gotten bit if I didn’t move beforehand and if I instead tried to calm my dog. So yeah, pay attention when there’s a reactive dog that’s focusing on yours. The simple decision to be ignorant can become a trip to the vet and/or a month of wasted progress with the reactive dog.
Omg, I understand!! I've been working on reactivity during walks and some people just seem to not care. My dog is finally getting over his fear of other dogs, and this woman who's knows we are training walks her dogs slowly towards us and taunts him almost every day. He's getting better with other dogs but I had to advocate that it wasn't cute or helpful when she did that, turned out she was doing it for laughs-smh. If my boy had gotten loose to her or her dogs while she taunted him during our training walks than my babe would be put down in the state we live in, but to her it was funny. The treat advise in your video worked like gold, i was using cheese but I think he preferred diced up hot dogs haha! Thank you!
Hi there, My dog Baxter used to love greeting dogs on the lead and playing with them when he was little. After an incident when he was on the lead and a dark colored dog came up to him and bit him, he became scared of dark colored dogs and then is scared of all dogs when he is on the lead. He is a Black and Tan kelpie ( a dark coloured dog) and started attacking the mirror when he saw himself. By this point I knew he had issues. Unfortunately he shows his fear as aggression. We have been to doggie school and saw a vet to see if anything was wrong with him. But nothing was wrong with him. He is very obedient when there are no dogs around on walks while he is on the lead. He enjoys playing with dogs while he isn’t on the lead. Baxter is agressive to his old puppy friends which are dark coloured dogs. I struggle to work him as I am scared he will bite me and I also find it embarrassing that my dog is aggressive. Are there any tips or advice which could help him to lean trust back with other dogs on the lead?
Thanks! To answer your question - a lot of harnesses will have a back clip attachment (which is at the top of the harness) as well as a front clip attachment, which I'm using in that video. A front-clip can make it easier to manage a dog who is pulling and lunging, since when they yank forward, the front-clip attachment kind of forces them to turn around.
Hey Fabian - we're actually releasing a new video soon that covers more about using your surroundings to your advantage. One thing you can do is use parked cars, benches, and trees as visual barriers, which can help a lot to keep a dog under threshold.
Thank you! I recognize that stare. My miniature pinscher has come a long way with walking on leash, but is still pretty reactive to people on bikes or skateboards, squirrels, cats, other dogs, and especially motorcycles. If I don't have a clicker can I use a command like "look at me" instead? We also need to work on him being friendly to people who come into our home. He's a sweet little dog but he's very anxious.
Hey there! The clicker is actually a reward cue, not a command, so the use will be different then what you describe. The click is an easy way of saying “good job, now here comes the treat” and is great for marking good behavior with precision, giving you more time to get out a treat. If you don’t have a clicker, a cue word like “yes” can work as well, just try to be consistent with tone. “Look at me” would work great as a focus command - that’s what I use too! Hand targeting is another great command for refocusing a dog. But a command is asking for a behavior, whereas clicking or “yes” is just letting the dog know they did well. A very overwhelmed or aroused dog will have a difficult time following a command, which is why I don’t often ask Remy to “look at me” near a dog unless we have enough distance and I trust that he is capable of focus. Otherwise, he just gets clicks and treats for NOT lunging and barking, even if that just means standing frozen. Hope that helps!
We had a small one( the devil in my dog's opinion) suddenly appear from behind, with his owner the other day. They ran straight past us, but took us totally by surprise, my dog, who's an improving rescue bag of nerves, jumped sideways, and a car was coming. Thank goodness there were speed bumps, or he'd have been hit. It's so hard after that not to join in with the hyper vigillance. I must be getting better though, because i didn't cry!
My dog is something like this he goes crazy for dogs when I take him in a walk and is really reactive with people on bikes too any advice I’m going to try to buy that clicker you have
Hey Alex - make sure to check out our other videos on reactivity because we have a lot of great videos on how to counter condition your dog to triggers! For now, just stay at a distance where your dog is under threshold and reward him if he can remain calm. But definitely check out our other videos, I think you’ll find them helpful.
My dog reacts to people and bikes, not other dogs. I live in the city so there's little chance I'd have that kind of distance between my dog and the trigger (the bike path is right next to the park too)
Is this best to do before even attempting off leash training? My dog is reactive regardless of being on-leash or off-leash and I can't even take her to the dog park. I would love to get her off leash, but as it stands right now, I can't even seem to get her to focus on me once something gets her attention (now after looking into the CARE method and this, I understand I am simply too close).
Hey JT - Yes, if your dog can't pay attention to you on-leash, you definitely should not be doing off leash training (unless it's in an enclosed space like a fenced-in yard). The general rule is, your dog should not be off-leash unless you have a rock solid recall. Basically, if you wouldn't be willing to bet $50 that your dog will come back to you when called, the dog should not be off leash! Practice "look at me" and other games where your dog must pay attention to you - first inside, and then outside in a familiar area, like your driveway or just a boring street in front of your house. Don't even try asking for focus in new environments until she can focus on you indoors and in familiar outdoor settings. Remember that outdoors can be VERY stimulating for dogs, especially in areas with a lot of smells or environments they aren't normally in. Be patient, your girl is doing her best but it can all be very overwhelming! That's where practice in low-stress environments comes in handy :)
This is sooooo helpful! I just started trying to walk my shepherd walk without lunging, barking and me pulling the leash with all my might! Your video gave me tips that are easy and doable right off the bat!! Thank you!! Your pittie Remmie is soooooo cute!!! 🐾❤️❤️🙏🏻
I'm glad it was helpful - make sure to watch out other videos on reactive dog training too, we have some other great tips you might appreciate. And thank you for the kind words about Remy :) He is quite the handsome boy!
The bottom (aka front clip) is good to stop a dog from pulling, since when they pull it kind of turns them around. Not necessarily better for training, just depends on what you need. I usually use back clip harness too but if I think Remy is going to lunge I might do a front clip just so that he can’t pull me so much when he lunges.
I am not a fan of "balanced training," that uses aversive tools personally. Especially not for reactive dogs. The goal with a reactive dog is to help the dog practice calmness in response to triggers. An e-collar shock, prong collar, or leash correction will build stress in the dog, adding stress rather than easing it. If you’re doing your job right working with a reactive dog, utilizing distance and counter-conditioning, there will be no need to correct the dog, as you’ll be working under the dog’s threshold. The problem is, when balanced trainers choose to correct a reactive dog as it reacts to a trigger, they are trying to work with a dog that is over threshold. A dog who is lunging and barking is already too over threshold - they are no longer in a learning state of mind. The dog is complete overwhelmed, over-aroused, and unable to take in new information or learn in that kind of state. Instead, the goal should always be to help the dog stay at a distance that is effective to keep the dog in “learning mode” while working on counter-conditioning. Some balanced trainers may use an e-collar stimulation or correction to stop a dog from staring down a trigger prior to going over threshold. But again, I still see this as adding stress to a situation where your goal is to lessen the stress. It just doesn't make sense IMO and is counter-productive to the end goal, which is change the dog's emotion around triggers, not just stop the outward behavior itself.
@@K9ofMine thanks for the well-written response - truly appreciated. I have a reactive dog and have been working with him (purely positive) for something like three years now with very little (but noticeable) progress. I went down the internet rabbit hole on training for reactive dogs since my schedule recently changed and I've now got a lot of time to train with him, and there are certainly two schools of thought that seemed like they'd be beneficial - pure positive and balanced. Problematically, I see the logic behind (mild) corrections with a properly sized/applied/used corrective tool, as well as how those corrections could hide the anxiety (like you said) and just build stress and reinforce the trigger. That's my big fear. I really appreciate your thoughtful response - I'm trying to gather info to decide and, ultimately, I just want to do right by my dog.
I know how frustrating and confusing it can all be, I've been there myself and can relate! The more I've come to understand my own dog's arousal issues, the less I feel punishment is appropriate for what I am trying to help him with. But of course I know how difficult reactivity can be and I only sympathize with owners who struggle with this, regardless of the methods they choose to pursue! I will say it's worth noting that "purely positive" isn't a real method - it's more a term balanced trainers use to criticize the force-free camp. Force-free simply refers to not using fear, discomfort, or intimidation to control a dog. Largely, this means not using any positive punishment (adding an unpleasant stimuli as a punishment). But even force-free trainers will use a mix of positive reinforcement along with negative punishment (removing a desired stimuli as a punishment). "Purely positive" isn't really a thing. I know it's kind of confusing, but we did write a more thorough explanation here: www.k9ofmine.com/how-to-not-train-dog-with-aversives-punishment/ Also make sure to check out our other videos if you want to do more force-free reactivity training. And if you're struggling, it might be worth bringing in an outside professional. I'd opt for consulting with a force-free behaviorist who specializes in reactivity before resorting to aversive tools, but that's just me of course. Regardless of how you move forward, I wish you all the best with your dog!
I know it's probably going to be a slow process but how would we move from learning to walk by other dogs nicely to actually being able to greet other dogs? My Dillon has a few dogs he's friends with and does become more comfortable once he's spent a bit of time near a particular dog. Once he's had a good interaction with one, he won't react to them again.
Hey Kathryn! Honestly, I wouldn't recommend encouraging on-leash greetings with strange dogs ever. It's just too risky, you don't know the temperament of the other dog, and leashed interactions are always more stressful since the dogs feel more trapped and don't have an easy means of escape. Instead, I'd focus on finding a few close dog friends - maybe the dogs of people you know well who can vouch for their dog's temperament, or dogs of a similar play style that you meet. Arrange doggie playdates with those tried-and-tested dog friends! If you want to a good way to meet and greet new dogs who could become new play partners, check out our video on parallel walks - that's the best way to introduce two dogs together. After a walk you can allow some managed greeting and see how it goes from there!
My dog is exactly the same, but his threshold is much wider. He doesn't walk back with me though if he sees a dog and we're too close. He's a big boy and stubborn, so I have to fish him back and it blows any training out the window :C
That sounds tough Anna. Have you tried REALLY delicious treats? Or maybe some new meat he has never had before? I found that when I used rotisserie chicken one day for training Remy was much more responsive and attentive than he normally is, simply because he had never had rotisserie chicken before and was super excited about it.
Great video! I’ve been working with my reactive dogs for years - my husband and I walk our dogs together (one is more reactive than the other) so they tend to feed off each other - however we keep a distance between them when encountering another dog which helps and of course they’re both great when walking alone! They’re also great off leash! But the reactivity hasn’t gone away - sometimes it feels like it’s become worse!!! So at this point we keep managing - perhaps it’ll never get better?
I feel you Marianne! Sometimes management is the best you can do. Remy and I have hit plenty of plateaus too. Sometimes hiring a professional behavior expert can make a big difference - I know I discovered several things I was doing that was setting back progress a bit when I brought in a pro. A veterinary behaviorist might also be worth considering - some dogs are just so anxious that they'll really need some meds to have any effective behavior modification work take hold. Hang in there!
I really needed to see and hear this. I just happened to buy the same style leash you had because of my 2 yr old doodle pulling on walks to the point of choking. I'm hoping the lead in chest will help. I've been told to use a prong collar and that will only be the leash that works but he's so scared of it and walks are just us unenjoyable😞 I'm hoping the new harness is good!
Hey Marisa - I'd really encourage you NOT to use a prong collar. Aversive training methods (aka using fear or pain to control a dog's behavior) are really not recommended by experienced, certified trainers who are up to date on the latest science behind dog training. Prong collars are never a great idea, but are especially dangerous for fearful dogs - and it sounds like your guy is pretty fearful! Having your dog associate fear and pain with your walk can end up working against you in the long run. There are plenty of great, more gentle anti-pull options out there, like the front-clip harness you bought. There are some others options too (like the Gentle Leader head harness, dual-leash harnesses, etc), I'd suggest checking out our guide to no-pull harnesses for more details. www.k9ofmine.com/best-dog-collar-for-pulling/ However, ultimately, ANY anti-pull harness is just a tool you use to be able to take your dog on walks safely WHILE you work on training. The goal should always be to teach your dog not to pull on the leash and how to loose-leash walk instead. You may be surprised how many dogs can pick this up quickly. We have a guide here on Loose Leash Walking 101 www.k9ofmine.com/loose-leash-walking/ The easiest method is to just start counting (to yourself) one, two, three on walks. When you reach three seconds, give the dog a treat. Repeat the counting and do this a few times. Now, when you count to three, instead of just giving your dog the treat, hold the treat near the seam of your pants at hand height and wait for your dog to come get the treat from that hand position. Eventually your dog will learn that if he is close to your hip, he'll get treats! That's much better than pulling! Other strategies also involve halting the walk as soon as there is pressure on the leash. Wait for your dog to let the leash go slack (or call him towards you if he needs some direction) and as soon as the leash is slack, keep walking. Alternatively, as soon as there is slack click, give a treat, and then continue the walk. Rinse and repeat. Obviously this can be tough at first as it might take you 10 minutes to move a few paces with an experienced puller. But eventually he'll learn that pulling doesn't pay!
@@K9ofMine I can't thank you enough for taking the time to tell me those tips. I watch countless training videos and I've bought everything they tell me to get but nothing helps without him being scared. I tried the collar yesterday and he stayed near my side much more than the flat collar. I can never get fit right because when we walk his head is always down sniffing which makes the neck area slack again😞 but I'll try again today and also I'll definitely be checking out the links. Thank you again, it means so much to have positive words and support.
That’s definitely a tough situation! I would suggest trying to hide - either between two cars or up a driveway to get some distance. Anything to reduce your dog’s sight line so if he has to see them both, at least it’s for as little time as possible.
@@K9ofMine thanks for your reply, I live in a small town so theres always someone walking their dog someone here before I can get to a nice whiter place to practice him focus to me 😊
Your video is helpful. I have the sweetest dog, but she turns into a mad dog when seeing certain dogs on a walk. She turns her head when we pass the german shepard ( our near by neighbors) barking in his yard. I wonder why certain dogs are triggers, and certain dogs she respects. I want to gain control because I avoid walking her knowing I need to yank a 65lb dog that sounds ferocious. What is the clicking device used?
Aw poor thing. Some dogs get hairy with dogs if a certain size or breed due to a past bad experience or just being more intimidated by a larger dog. Hopefully she can start to feel more comfortable around those problem dogs! That tool is a clicker, it’s used to mark and reward specific behaviors. They are a really handy training tool!
Yes, with prolonge use a front clip can be problematic. That's why the goal is always to teach a dog not to pull, rather than use a tool. I don't support the use of aversive tools like prong collars. They also pose a substantial risk of injury to a dog's throat and use pain to manage a dog, which I don't recommend.
@@K9ofMine it is tho, Ive even tried it on myself and it didn't hurt. I'm not saying you have to use one, but they're great if you know what your doing
@@ittoscrustysock7534 Using it on your arm or wherever else will not be the same sensation as around your dog's neck with great force. Also, keep in mind that prong collars wouldn't work if they didn't hurt... why else would they stop your dog from pulling?
Remi is so BEAUTIFUL AHH! I'm dying! This pittle stole my heart, and your training tips helped me a lot! I'll be subbing and seeing more videos in the near future. Thank you for making this video! 💕
My dog is leash reactive to dogs when on walks. She will also bark occasionally people but only if they talk me and my sister, but were I live there arnt many dogs on walks so it is hard to work with her on it, the good thing is that she has gotten better with people but dogs are still not that good.
I feel you, it's not easy having a reactive dog! As far as practicing, that can be the benefit of working with a trainer since they have access to other dogs to practice with. You could also try using Nextdoor or a local FB group and ask folks in your area who do have dogs to meet up one day and let you practice walking by.
I was training my 10 month old pup I adopted 3 months ago. I could not walk her for almost 2 months cause I sprained my ankle badly, my hubby had been doing it for me. Yesterday, a lady followed us close and I was walking away from her and getting the dog to continue walking and saying leave it. The lady followed us closely and I went to someones driveway away from the dog behind us. Lady looked like she wanted the dogs to meet and greet, I know my pup is not ready for a meet and greet yet in her training as she can be reactive. Well, it is the 2nd time she did became reactive, since I got her. Need to desensitise her more.
It can definitely be tough navigating overly friendly neighbors! I've learned to be a lot more vocal about the fact that Remy isn't ready for meet-and-greets.
Check out our follow up video, you might find some of those tips more helpful: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html In a city, parked cars can really work in your favor. Use physical barriers to lessen the intensity and obstruct direct sight-lines to other dogs.
It's around 7 or 8 months after you posted this video and I have a question, did your dog get less reactive? Did the training work? I have the same problem with my dog and I'm trying to train her but it doesn't seem to be working.
Great question! Yes, we have seen a big improvement. You can see our follow up video here: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html I won't lie though, it takes work and time. Progress is slow and steady. This isn't the kind of thing that takes days to resolve, more like months. If your dog continues to bark and lunge, you may need more distance from the triggers and possibly higher value treats. I hope that helps, good luck!
@@K9ofMine any suggestions for a dog that is actually aggressive and will not take treats at all? A dog that will redirect it's aggression to the handler when the target cannot be reached. Thanks. X
It says this video was posted a year ago, did you get it fixed? I've had my dog about a month and a half and he's worse than this. I've tried everything I can think of including a prong collar and nothing works, he doesn't care, he's completely focused on the other dog even if it's a mile down the trail.
Hey Frank! Sorry to hear you are struggling with reactivity with your dog. I definitely understand what a challenge it can be! Reactivity isn't really something that's easily resolved overnight - it takes some work and ongoing effort. Remy has definitely improved - make sure to check out our other video about reactivity to see how he has progressed: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html But, I can't say he is "fixed" and honestly, he might always be a reactive dog. However, we've reached a manageable point that I can live with - we can see dogs across the street and be fine, but we can't get any closer. Some dogs will be mostly fine after a couple of months of hard work. Some, like Remy, will improve but might always have some reactive behaviors. I think of it a bit like being a recovering alcoholic - you'll always essentially be an alcoholic to some degree, you'll always struggle with the temptation of alcohol and your relationship with it. But over time and with work, you'll develop good coping mechanisms and strategies to keep yourself happy and safe. I'd suggest reflecting on what situation would be manageable for you and your dog. I for one had a lot of expectations of trips to the dog park and taking Remy everywhere with me. It was hard for me to accept that Remy will never be that dog, but when I did comes to terms with that, it was easier for me to figure out what I NEEDED from Remy, vs what I wanted (but could ultimately be OK without). I will say that a month and a half is a pretty short amount of time. If you've only had this dog for a month, he's probably still adjusting to your home. A new home can be a really stressful transition for a dog - some dogs take up to three months to really settle down! So I wouldn't be too hard on him right now. One easy way to start things off is just work on changing his association with other dogs. Try to stay at distance away from other dogs where he isn't completely losing his mind barking and lunging, because at that point "learning mode" is out the window since he's over-threshold. So, at a distance where can still be (relatively) normal, try just tossing a bunch of treats on the ground. You might need something high value like chicken or string cheese! Sniffing and eating is soothing for dogs, so this will naturally lower your dog's blood pressure and help him chill a bit. Keep doing this and he'll learn that A) seeing other dogs = treats B) he should look to you when he sees other dogs because you're about to throw down some awesome tasties! This is called classical conditioning - you're changing your dog's association from negative to positive. Once you've done that for a bit, you can transition to more operant conditioning, which is rewarding your dog for a specific desired behavior. A great way to do this with a reactive dog is through the engage/disengage game (we have a video all about that here: ua-cam.com/video/FBXwaAG_JaQ/v-deo.html) I know this can all seem like a lot, but I do promise it gets easier over time. It will take some real effort on your part though. If you're struggling, I'd suggest reaching out to a Certified Dog Behavior Expert (we have a video on how to find one too, check out our library). Don't just work with any old trainer because if they aren't an expert in reactivity they might offer some bad advice that can make the situation worse. Good luck, hang in there! We're rooting for you.
I have a 9 month old gsd and I don’t know what to do. I live in a small town where if I stop to train her like this people look at me like I have 2 heads. The paths are also small so it can be impossible to keep a good distance from others, and even to walk to a field I have to walk past other people to get there. She goes crazy at any people we see and it’s so embarrassing
Don’t let the judgement of other people keep you down! Most people have no idea how to deal with reactive dogs, they just don’t get it. So ignore them. You’ll really need to start out walking her in areas where you can get plenty of distance - those narrow paths will have to be off limits for a while. Make sure you check out our other videos on reactivity to get some tips. Hang in there!
Telling people to move along often does not end well. But I share your frustration. People who approach with their dog when you’re obviously trying to keep them separated. If that guy stood there for literally five minutes though, that’s crazy.
@@calholl SORRY I guess my reply from yesterday didn't come through when I said the name but the harness comes in 12 different colors ranging from Small to XL it's on Amazon it's called "BABYLTRL Big Dog Harness No Pull Adjustable Pet Reflective Oxford Soft Vest for Large Dogs Easy Control Harness" it's currently 12.99 was the original price is 17.99
My dog does this, but more intense. I got him with the hopes I would be able to take him to a dog park and let him socialize. It’s still not a possibility. The good thing is he never barks, but he’s already but another dog and always reacts to other dogs no matter what I try.
I definitely dreamed of taking Remy to the dog park when I first got him too! The good news is that dog parks are overrated and can actually be quite dangerous and exacerbate behavior issues! We have a video on tips for training a reactive dog here: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html It's mostly about distance, rewarding for calm behavior and disengagement, and keeping your dog below threshold as much as possible. Definitely don't hesitate to hire a certified behavior consultant or an experienced force-free trainer if you're struggling. A pro can make a huge difference just figuring out where you need to improve. Good luck!
That's really tough Ezra! Hopefully our videos can help, but I'd also recommend reaching out to a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant through the CCPDT (www.ccpdt.org/certification/dog-behavior-consultant/). Good luck, I know it can be really tough!
I think the reason it's not working is because your dog isn't understanding what you want from him. Also, harnesses only encourage pulling, there is no real resistance happening that is powerful enough to deter such a strong dog. My dog used to be the same way, except he was also aggressive. We never were able to make progress with him using methods like this. When Remy is staring at the other dog and you click you are rewarding his heightened excitement. The clicker marks the desired behavior, even though you aren't rewarding the lunging and barking you are rewarding him just before he explodes. He wasn't actually under threshold because he was still fixated on the other dog. You also are using treats at the beginning of the training instead of paying him after he's preformed properly. For my dog, he was to the point he was almost put down. Teaching him focus and side were absolute game changers, as well as the prong and e collar. When your dog has tunnel vision he doesn't care about your clicker or your voice. A pop on a prong or a loud noise followed by redirection and behavior modification was the only thing that worked for us. He went from a dangerous out of control lawsuit waiting to happen, to an under control dog that doesn't only preform or listen when food or toys are involved.
Harness do not encourage pulling. No tool encourages pulling. The goal is not to use force or coercion, but to help the dog learn to disengage from the trigger themselves. You can't reinforce an emotion. Most dogs are reactice due to fear, and utilizing a prong collar or e-collar increases the negative association. If your dog is already afraid of another dog, and you begin to incorporate pain when they see another dog, it's no surprise that their fear towards other dogs only increases. In this context, the clicker is also being used to get Remy's attention away from the other dog. It helps him break his focus. The only reason it did not work in this situation was because I was too close to the trigger. If your dog has tunnel vision it is not because he needs a firm correction. It means you as a trainer have not assessed the situation and have the dog in a position where he is over threshold. In this case, I should have had more distance. I would never use a prong or e-collar on Remy. As a dog with aggressive issues, many dogs who have been trained with an e-collar or prong end up with increased aggression due to the elevated stress and anxiety these tools cause. I'm glad you found something that has worked for you and your dog. If your're intrested, we have a follow up video in the description showing the progress we've made. These strategies do work, they are what are used by certified animal behaviorists, and they are the least harmful techniques with the lowest risk of fallout.
Front clip harnesses really aren't good especially for dogs who pull. You should also try out a prong collar for him, the clicker doesn't seem to get his attention at all.
Front clip harnesses are specifically designed for dogs who pull - when they move forward, the front clip causes them to spin around, negating a lot of the pulling power. I would never use a prong collar on Remy because A) I don't support the use of aversive tools that cause intentional pain or discomfort B) A prong collar increases stress, and since Remy is already reactive and dealing with a lot of stress, that kind of tool would make Remy more anxious and nervous, not less. C) Remy already has trachea damage due to his previous owners using a prong collar - even the slightest throat tension causes him to gag and cough. In this situation, Remy did not respond to the clicker because he was over threshold. Clickers are great tools, but in this situation we were really just too close to the other dog to have it be effective as a distraction (and some would fairly argue it shouldn't even be used in that manner).
@@K9ofMine Front clip harnesses cause joint issues, can cause trachea damage, and frustrates dogs who have reactivity issues. Prongs don't cause pain, also front clip harnesses are considered an aversive tool because they cause discomfort when the dog pulls. Prongs distribute even pressure, the prongs are rounded not sharp at all, prongs were made to be painless and to prevent trachea damage. Do research on the tools you use, and the tools you're against. His old owners did not use a real prong collar, the trachea can't be damaged by a well fitted real prong because they have a treachea plate. My rescue Bull terrier has severe joint problems because his old owners used a front clip harness when he was a puppy, real herm springer prong collars are harmless, front clip harnesses aren't. Get a head halter or use a slip lead for more control that won't damage the dog or frustrate it :) But of course it's your choice and your dog.
Yes, any piece of gear can potentially cause harm. Even a standard flat collar can hurt a dog’s trachea if they constantly pull. So sure - a front clip harness CAN cause issues over time, but it’s not designed to inflict discomfort or pain, and when well-fitted, the risk is minimal. Prong collars are designed to inflict pain or - at the very least - discomfort. How do you think such a tool works? Why would it stop a dog from pulling unless it hurt? If you choose to use a prong collar, that’s your choice. But don’t be willfully naive about how it works. Any balanced trainer will tell you a prong collar causes discomfort… that’s why it works. You really need to understand what the goal of such a tool is. I’m sorry your pup has joint issues - any vet would absolutely agree that front clip harnesses shouldn’t be used on puppies, as their joints are being developed. Luckily Remy is a full grown adult dog. As I said, I don’t support the use of aversive tools and won’t be using a prong collar on my dog. They are very poor tools for reactivity, as they increase stress and do nothing to resolve the dog’s inner turmoil, instead shutting down the dog’s communication.
@@K9ofMine I clearly said it distributes even pressure, a front clip harness is far more uncomfortable. I was recommending better options, not asking for your biased opinion on prong collars. And you are incorrect again, well fitted prongs do not add stress, especially for fearful dogs. I've put a prong collar on my own neck before using it on any of my dogs or any of the dogs that I train. Again, do in depth research. Prong collars are even very commonly used on service dogs and police dogs, it's the best tool for training reactive dogs, but of course every dog is different.
@@K9ofMine Also like I said before, front clip harnesses are considered aversive tools because it causes discomfort and effects the natural gait of the dog while pulling them back when they pull forward. Anyway, have a nice night because I'm not here to argue.
At this stage, Remy just looking at another dog without reacting is a net win, which is why I was trying to click for him looking at the other dog prior to going over threshold. But there are actually a few different theories on how to use treats like this. A lot of times you can change the dog's underlying emotion just by feeding treats around a trigger. So by feeding Remy while he's in the presence of dogs, I can change his underlying emotion from stress and anxiety to positive emotions (aka when I see a dog, I get a cookie, so other dogs are actually awesome). Looking back now years later, the better option here would have been to simply rely on management strategies like treat scatters because Remy was over threshold already for most of this encounter.
My dog is really reactive, he’ll lunge and bark at other dogs, mostly big ones. It took us a year but he finally will take treats from me outside (and will sit but its like 50/50). I only use chicken treats outside (we do both freeze dried and plain, cooked). I will have to try the cooked hotdog!
I don’t support using corrections for reactivity. A collar would certainly be easier, but Remy has a neck injury from his previous home (maybe due to someone going crazy on collar corrections, who knows) and even the slightest pressure on his neck results in a coughing fit! Poor guy.
Mijn hond gaat zitten of midden op de straat liggen dan zit er geen beweging meer in schaam mij kapot hij luister dan voor geen cent en snoepjes helpen dan totaal niet jammer genoeg 😐te veel prikkels midden in de stad geen tijd om zich op mij te focussen.
Let me contribute with my experience: this dog is/was walking in front of you. Unless you are able to have full control and have the dog by your side with no tension on the leash its game over (my dog is very leash-reactive) so first you need to work on absolute leash reactivity. Once this is fixed, you need to give the treats while moving towards the object of excitement a lot of them to desinsibilize the dog but you are the leader of the pack the dog needs to first learn that his objective while walking is to follow, observe and sense you AT ALL TIMES. Thats how I fix my dog. Leash reactivity method working for me: see Beckmanns channel.
I totally understand your point of view, but I have to disagree on some things. Honestly, having Remy in a tight heel is just not the way to go for him. He is very easily aroused, and we've had much better success letting him sniff and giving him other means of engagement such as with treat scatters, etc. Him being in a tight heel would be very stressful for him, and a tight heel just isn't a priority for us. The whole "your dog can't walk in front of you" mindset is pretty outdated at this point, as is the concept of being "alpha" and the idea that you need to be a "pack leader" for your dog. I mean -- if you don't want your dog to walk in front of you, that's up to you, but it's not a priority for me as long as Remy is not dragging me around. Dogs walk faster than humans, they're naturally going to be ahead of us a lot. I totally get what you mean about engagement - and I've managed to get great engagement with Remy through pattern games and asking for a focus cue. But honestly, I don't love it. I'd rather have him sniff and experience his environment than stare at me for 15 minutes, as it's kind of un-nerving and not fun for either of us. Everyone has different goals and expectations for their dog. But my goal is not to control Remy perfectly so that when I say A he always does B without question. People who get hyper fixated on control usually end up with a personality-less, shut-down dog, and that's not the relationship I'm looking for. My goal is to get him to feel more comfortable and relaxed in his environment. I'm glad you found something that worked for you!
I'm sure you realize that you can't always take treats with you everywhere. Need to utilize other methods and also the harness is not the right kind, IMHO. I personally don't believe in harness (chest) collars but looks like he's moderately dog aggressive too but not horribly so. His is manageable.
When we are doing training sessions yes, I will always have treats with me. I can and will always bring treats on walks and don't take Remy into situations where I am unprepared. It's just about prepping for our adventures. If by "other methods" you mean a prong collar, I could say the same about that - "you can't always have a prong collar on your dog." Interesting that you "don't believe" in harnesses (whatever that means). Front clip harnesses work great for us. Harnesses are not for managing reactivity, they are simply for a bit more control on walks. I would be fine with a standard flat collar, but Remy has a damaged trachea from his past owners (who knows, maybe they were using a prong collar), so harnesses are the only option for us.
@@K9ofMine I don't use a prong collar even though it's useful for some dogs while it's not for others. I use a head collar. The harness for anti pulling didn't work but the head halter collar works wonderfully. My daughter can walk my 65 lb catahoula now with just a single finger if it comes down to it. He hates the head halter collar though but has learned to accept it. I used to walk with him on a prong collar. It worked at first but when the years went on, he learned to lean and slowly pull with it on so I had to go back to square one. It works for other dogs that I have but not for this one. I have no idea why. Catahoulas are complicated creatures, lol. Mine are actual working hog dog hunters.
@@TedH71 Wow, hog hunters? That sounds neat! We did try a head halter initially but Remy was a huge baby and would collapse onto the ground and refuse to move lol. I know we could have gotten him more used to it with more practice, but I ended up stopping, especially after hearing some people claim it could cause some serious neck and spine damage (it seems like every harness or collar will have someone claiming it physically injures dogs, so who knows). Maybe we'll try it again though.
@@K9ofMine Frankie did that crap. I had no patience for his nonsense and kept walking and corrected him every time he started to paw at his face. Not all head halter collars are created equal. I'll have to look up the brand. I think it was Gentle Leader. Their harness does NOT work. Frankie's worst habit is pulling while walking literally. He does not have dog reactiveness though while walking unless the dog is trying to attack him over by the fence and I'm able to get him to quit talking back. Catahoulas are talkers and prone to selective dog aggression when they're mature around 2 to 3 years of age. Lots of catahoula breeders don't tell puppy buyers that. I personally believe catahoulas are very prone to Littermate Syndrome if they're raised in suburban areas. I refuse to sell littermates to people who live in the suburbs. I might if the person in question lives rurally and hog hunts because you have to intensively train them separately which can break that intense bond. Catahoulas are also used to round up cattle. I've not had the right connections to get my dogs cattle work. My Frankie started showing selective dog aggression (esp against males) around age 8 which was surprisingly late and he's 10 now. Typical catahoula behavior, I promise. People are shocked when their little catahoula decides they don't like another dogs at the dog park. I don't ever take my dogs to the dog parks. They are easily offended by rude dogs and will go off on them to correct them for their behavior. One example is a dog that probably is a lab or golden retriever who will charge up to your dog and slam on the brakes and nearly slam into your dog. That's a doggy version of F you. My catahoulas HATE this and will and have taken down dogs doing this to them. They prefer the polite sniffing of butts and tails greeting. They also will NOT tolerate another dog pawing on their shoulders because to them, it's showing that the other dog wants to be alpha and is testing them. Even my most submissive catahoula will bite in that situation.
@@TedH71 Ah yes, Gentle Leader is what we used. I wouldn't suggest correcting a dog for fussing with a head halter, that will just build a negative association with the halter. Instead, I'd offer treats throughout the walk to create a positive association. But of course that takes time and patience. I agree, dog parks are usually bad news. Remy behaves exactly as you described off leash - charges as fast as he can and then halts right in front of the other dog. That's why he is not allowed to play with others anymore - he's too rude!
You don't talk to him name, action, click. You go on edge as soon as you see a dog sending tension down the lead. Head up, control and carry on walking.
Thanks for commenting, but that would never work for us. If we kept walking Remy would definitely react. Going up a driveway and getting more distance is what we needed at this stage in our training.
You need to practice basic obidience during these encounters. Treats are good at the right time but here they will not help your dogo get over his problem. Your dog's behaviour shows atm that you are not in charge of the situation nor is he looking up to you for guidance in these moments. Balanced training is your key to success.
My second thought after watching your video is that I would not use clicker to get the dogs attention. Rather make a sound of some sort for example and when you get attention - click and reward. Because when you start to think of it - what are you really clicking here? The dog is amped up 110% concentrated on the dog and you are clicking and rewarding it.
No, reactivity has nothing to do with obedience. It’s a behavior problem, not obedience. Remy actually has a great sit, stay, and place cue established among others. Treats are in fact the beat way to change your dog’s association with a stimulating trigger, encouraging calm rather than fear. I’d suggest you read up on reactivity as it sounds like you don’t really understand what’s happening for the dog cognitively. While you’re not using the word dominance, you are implying as much. My dog very much looks to me for help in these situations, but if I put him in a situation where he is too close to a trigger, he is going to react because he is over threshold. Me doing a leash pop is not going to change what distance he requires to feel safe and calm. That is where long-term counter conditioning comes in.
@@r.i.s.t.o I’ve already answered this several times in other comments, but it’s a very normal practice to use the clicker as a distraction to re-orient the dog towards you. But generally I would agree. I prefer using a sound or kissy noise to get Remy’s attention and rewarding that disengagement.
You cannot successfully longterm cure the problem with treats. I hope as the time goes by you understand it while the problem does not improve or goes worse. Your dog needs guidance and leadership. He needs you to be there to show him what to do in these situations. That is the only way to get him to calm down. It has nothing to do with brute dominance. Have a look at the NoBadDog channel for help.
Yeah we’re not going to agree on this. Desensitization and counter conditioning are the strategies that certified dog behaviorists, who resolve issues like this for a living and are educated in dog cognition, use to resolve reactivity like this. Teaching a dog how to be calm in the face of triggers is guidance, and that’s exactly what counter-conditioning does. To me it’s so obvious why shocks or corrections would be inappropriate in a situation like this, but it’s not clear to everyone I suppose. I’d suggest you check out my other videos, as Remy’s reactivity has indeed improved by using these behaviorist-recommended techniques.
I don't see an issue with telling them my dog is reactive and requesting they don't linger too long directly in front of us. After all, they don't want to be harassed by my dog either!
@@K9ofMine I mean .. shouldn't it be on you guys to move at that point, though? there is a courtesy aspect, sure, but it shouldn't be their responsibility not to 'linger' on a big wide street because someone else's dog struggles not to freak out even at a distance .. maybe if it were a cramped little sidewalk or something but ..
@@ipunchbeeswell.. she makes it two of her 5 points in the video about "5 things not to do" .. one of which is that the other guy was on a cellphone. although ... in the summary she's using it as a general example of being aware of other people who are not aware of themselves and their dog's behavior in the video it came across really differently to me her reply kinda made it feel that way too, and it seemed like there was room to move.. I don't think she had to stay stuck there either??
My dog is too uneasy to focus on treats. Even at a distance she would be barking like anything and pulling towards them. She does it to people, dogs and nothing. I don't know what to do with her
Aw poor thing. How is she inside? Sounds like outside is really tough for her. You could start desensitizing and counter-conditioning just in your yard or driveway, in familiar outdoor areas that aren't as scary.
@@K9ofMine inside she's fine. But if she hears a noise she'll bark a little same as my other dog. Outside if she hears a noise she does the same but she loves being in the garden. Sounds like a good idea! Thank you!
I know I'm a bit late to this video, but this is seriously so so helpful. My dog (my profile picture) is severely leash reactive to other dogs and some people, so it's helpful to see what I'm doing that I could work on! The words at the end were super nice to hear too, I feel like a lot of the time, he's a lost cause, or I should just give up, but I know the more I keep trying, the better he'll get :)
I know it can be super hard - check out our other videos on reactivity too because I've been working a lot on this with Remy. I think it's definitely a matter of adjusting expectations as well as a lot of counter-conditioning. Good luck, I know working with a reactive dog can be stressful.
It’s OK, I know how frustrating all this. Remember that this is just what I was able to catch on camera - he’s definitely had worse outbreaks than this. I would also say don’t wait to try medication, it can make a huge difference!
Hey Kaitlyn, it really depends. It can take months of training work and practice - this isn't really the kind of thing that resolves overnight. Check out our update video if you'd like: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html Walking by another dog without your reacting will depend on a number of things - the environment, your distance from the other dog, how much practice you've done with games like engage/disengage, etc.
Kaitlyn -- impatience in any type of dog training, whether teaching tricks, working on behavior modification, training for sports etc., is not a good plan. Besides getting there is half the fun! Good luck.
The answer is not a simple "yes" or "no" unfortunately. When I initially got Remy, I would let him play off leash with neighbor dogs or at the dog park (bad idea but I didn't know better back then). He was happy, but would play very rambunctiously and was sometimes very rude, barking in the face or dogs until they would run around with him. A few times I noticed him nipping the heels of other dogs while running with them. Then one day, he was playing with some neighbor dogs and a scuffle broke out - I wasn't there and have no idea who "started it" but he was notably more reactive after that incident. I decided Remy needed to learn some play manners. I took him to a trainer who practiced letting him socialize with other dogs in the day camp while wearing a muzzle, to be safe. He mostly just barked a lot. He had a few good play sessions, but as I learned more about dog body language, I realized that the way he would run up and charge other dogs - even if it was just to play - was not OK or fair to the other dogs. Since then he has not been allowed to play off-leash. Even if I know he is trying to play, his intimidating lunges and rudeness shouldn't be something other dogs have to deal with. I hope maybe if his reactivity can improve, maybe with supervision he could play off leash again at some point, but right now it's not something I'm even considering.
So what Ive learned here is sometimes you have to walk on other people's property and people aren't allowed to move freely on a cell phone outside in public areas and must pay attention to you and your dogs needs at all times.
I don't think you should necessarily ask the other dog owner to keep moving. I think you need to be proactive and turn around yourself. Asking another dog owner to do something for you could ..... well, not go well, depending on the other dog owner's attitude. I just turn around and maybe double back several minutes later.
I agree asking the other person to keep moving might not work out well depending on who you're talking to. In this case I was already backed up my neighbor's driveway and couldn't go anywhere else. Otherwise I agree, getting more distance yourself is usually the best option.
I've been feeling really disappointed in myself with my current dog walk progress but hearing you say those kind words at the end actually got to me. Thanks for the reinforcement. All we can do is keep trying our best ✨
It's defiantly not easy and you are NOT alone! Hang in there
Spent years working on leash reaction and thousands of dollars and still no progress. So, yeah, you’re far from alone.
I am a first time dog owner, but I’m trying to learn as much as possible to help my dog as much as possible.
She went from reacting to dogs so severely and so often that I had thought it would be better to rehome her (because I thought I was doing horribly)
To being able to walk a few meters behind 4 dogs with her worst reaction being a growl (because she was startled)
So yeah, this does work, and it’s an amazing feeling to slowly see a dog go from insecure and fearful to confident and trusting in you
You should be so proud of all your hard work! Thank you for not giving up on her, I know it's difficult.
This would be a dream my 8 month pup is so reactive its disheartening i really hope one day we can be around other dogs
How long did it take to get to this point?
Idk who would still be here but I’m the same person on a different acc lol
Grace (the dog I was talking about here) is doing pretty great with other dogs! So much so that we’ve been able to adopt two more. A small female yorkie, and a large male gsd. She’s done great with both, albeit a bit nervous at first. Keep trying, it’s worth it.
Since the pandemic started, my dog has reversed on their training and become more reactive because we have been inside all the time. It's been really frustrating as of late and I really feel defeated over it. I literally don't know what to do to make it better, so when I saw your dog lunge as mine has been lately, it helped me realize I am not the only one going through this. Thanks for the tips and for letting me rant.
You are not alone! There are so many owners of reactive dogs out there. I promise with work it gets better!
I had such a terrible experience today with my newly adopted dogs and I needed to hear this! Thank you for making the video!
My goal this year is to train my dog out of leash reactivity. Great reminders! Thank you!!
You can do it!
I could cry at this video. This is so what I needed to see and hear. Thank you. 🙏🏻😊
Hang in there, it gets better!
This is a great video, thank you for not only giving tips but showing how in real life training can sometimes not go as planned!
awesome stuff, especially giving a POV for an average walk. thank you
You're so very welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video :)
This is an awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to actually counter condition and desensitize your dog to other dogs rather than correct him for being nervous! I think your timing is great, but if you don’t mind I’d like to make a tiny recommendation! (I realize I’m a year late so you may have already noticed this!) The clicker is a marker for the dog doing something he should be doing, so whatever he is doing when you click, he will think is the correct decision in that moment!
Instead of clicking when he’s staring at another dog (which is telling him that his hyper fixation is a good thing) you could try saying his name in place of the clicking, and then clicking the moment he willingly disengages from the dog! This way you’re rewarding his choice to ignore the dog, rather than rewarding him staring at the dog! Your concept is exactly right for this style of training, but that small change might make a big difference in his overall engagement with you near other dogs!
I hope I’m not coming across as rude or disrespectful, this is an awesome video and you’re an incredible owner for taking this time with him! ❤️
Thanks so much Jessica - you're not coming off as disrespectful at all :)
Remy and I have (since this video) transitioned to clicking only for disengaging from the trigger. Check out our "11 Reactive Dog Training Tips" video to see how we've progressed!
I've consulted with a few different trainers on reactivity, and they're the ones who initially suggested starting out by using the clicker more as a disengagement tool than a reward - so, once the clicker is associated with treats, clicking to distract the dog as a way to encourage them to break their focus from the trigger. This does seem to be a strategy plenty of reactivity-based trainers use, but I've also gotten a lot of comments on this video suggesting this method isn't ideal. However, it's hard to know if the average commenter on this video really has much knowledge about working with reactive dogs.
Anyhow, I used that method when Remy was really struggling to disengage. He's gotten a lot better, so now we only click and disengagement. I agree that's probably the ideal way to use the clicker!
Thank you for the kind words, and do make sure to check out our other reactivity video if you're curious about how Remy is doing now!
Love the humility. I am fostering a 4 month old pup. Some training has gone well, but I get really discouraged when it doesn't. Additionally, after 3 consulations 😢 we know his back leg needs to be amputated due to a serious break that was not given medical care. Physical therapy and acupuncture will not be enough. So factoring in his current disability makes it more complicated. Thank you for your patience!
I do understand leash reactivity as this was me and my dog for a while. So I feel you here and appreciate this video. Through plenty of training, reactivity is no longer an issue for me & I noticed that everything in this video is wrong. For one, as soon as you saw this other dog you were already on guard and prepared to create distance, even if that means going into someone else's driveway. We do need distance of course but the most important thing is not so much high value treats but the relationship between you and your dog. I needed to go back to basics and focus on a more structured walk, i needed to repair our relationship and build the bond and trust between us. I was sure never to click and treat when my dog was fixating on another (as you did.. this only rewards the fixation and in the end your dog had no interest in the reward anyway) , I marked and rewarded when my dog broke eye contact.
I do appreciate this video though and the fact that you'd be working hard to help your dog so a huge Thank You for sharing your story xx
Hey there - thanks for the comment! You'll note the video is about what NOT to do when reactive dog training so yes, I am showing mistakes here. However, I'll have to respectively disagree with what you consider a mistake. Creating distance and using high-value treats is essential to working on reactivity, there is no way around it.
You are quite vague about your language when it comes to building your relationship with your dog, but a dog's reactivity is about their response to other dogs, not to you.
With reactivity, starting with clicking while your dog is looking at another dog is actually a great place to start. It is building the connection that other dogs are a good thing and result in treats. This is key for reactive dogs who are afraid of other dogs. Clicking also actually helps get your dog in the habit of disengaging and looking at you, which is what you reinforce later as your dog gets better at dealing with other dogs.
When your dog has no interest in the reward, it is not because the food is not a good motivator - it's because the dog is over threshold and needs more space.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad you were able to work on your own dog's reactivity. Check out our follow-up video to see where we are now! ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html
This is how our walks can be. My husky has been ambushed so many times by little dogs that every dog is a threat now. I've asked other dog walkers to not continue toward us because she's reactive, and one person told me "that's not my problem control your dog". I told her "Clearly you're not concerned about your dogs safety". I know it won't be fixed over night but I live in an apartment so they are everywhere.
I’m sorry, that’s terrible. It’s atrocious how inconsiderate other dog owners can be - especially if they’ve never owned a more challenging dog 🤦♀️
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
This was encouraging to me. Our 2 yr old Doodle has become quite reactive to other dogs. 15 minutes ago we came home and were in the front yard when there was a lady walking a small dog across the street. My dog went CRAZY barking and lunging. All 50 lbs of him. I was so discouraged because there is NO getting his attention when this happens and I feel like such a bad dog mom. I will continue to work on getting his attention in places where the dog is farther away.
Don't feel bad! It's basically impossible to get your dog's attention when he's over threshold. You have the right idea - start off with more distance and practice look at that / look at me and desensitization. A force-free / R+ training can help a lot too!
@@K9ofMine What if you can't control distance when you are on a walk and a dog appears out of nowhere?
@@carolynlilly7445 It's really important to be able to control the distance. Even if that means going up into people's driveways or even yards if you have to. If you can't control the distance on walks, I'd suggest walking at times when you most likely won't encounter dogs, and then make specific trips to parks or areas with dogs where you can control the distance to work on desensitization. Otherwise you'll just set yourself up for failure.
Of course sometimes the unexpected happens and dogs can pop up out of nowhere. This is where a "Yikes!" command can come in handy - teach your dog that "yikes" (or some other word) means that you turn around and quickly run back the other way. Start off by making it a fun game when another dog is not around. Say "Yikes!" and get your dog to turn around and run the other way, dispensing treats and praise. Repeat enough times on normal walks and the eventually when a dog pops up out of nowhere, your dog will be able to turn around and get out of dodge ASAP!
Im really glad you posted this video, my dog is super reactive like this, even more so. Every video it on youtube the dog seems to be way to calm. Its very hard to walk him with other dogs sometimes people. I appreciate it,
You’re welcome! Hang in there, I know it can be tough.
Thanks for the advice and the encouraging words. I've been doing well with my rescue Bloodhound, but she has some major leash reactivity in certain situations, aka when pedestrians walk towards us or with slower moving cars. So yesterday with the help of trainer we worked on the pedestrian thing really nicely (session ended badly when a slow moving car came towards us) but overall a good session. Today a friend came over and feeling confident after last night and a nice walk earlier in the morning, I wanted to practice what we worked on yesterday. Anyway, it went horribly. One of my mistakes was trying to take her out when she was on high alert in the first place (a visitor she's never met before). Lesson learned. I hope I didn't screw anything up in the long term.
I want to go try and walk around later, so we will, but I gave her a Kong and a nice bone to try and chill out a little bit.
You sound like you've been working really hard. You should be super proud! We all have bad days or slip ups - it's totally normal and unavoidable. Remember, progress is never linear! Kudos to you for doing right by your dog and helping her as best you can. What more can a dog ask for?
@@K9ofMine Thanks! She still has those same problems, but strangely enough she was a total sweetheart at the vet today, even with other animals around, so I take every small win that I can get.
thank you for your channel , greeting from Manchester
I have a few questions and I hope this doesn’t seem like hate. 1) if you want him to engage with you when a high distraction goes by, why do you allow him to walk ahead of you when there are no distractions instead of having him heel and teaching him a “focus” command? 2) why do use a harness? 3) when he sees another dog and stares, don’t you think by clicking you’re teaching him it’s ok to be focused on the dog? Ik that you want it to mean that since he isn’t reacting he gets a reward but that doesn’t seem to be what I saw happening as every time you rewarded him he went right back to staring almost like saying “ hey thanks for the snack but this dog is much more interesting so I’m going to go back to focusing on it now”
I also own and have worked with many reactive dogs so i love watching videos of other people training their reactive dog(s)
Astallings 53 Hey there! Happy to answer your questions. 1) a heel command is a lot of work for a dog. It’s not really something you’re supposed to ask for all throughout a walk. It’s his walk too and he deserves to be able to sniff and engage with the world. As for the focus command, we do have a great “touch” but other dogs are too stimulating so he doesn’t respond in those cases. 2) Why would I not use a harness? The front clip is a handy option if I really can’t handle his pulling, and he has throat injuries due to his former owners who must have used a traditional collar with no training or a choke collar, as he begins to cough and choke the minute any tension is on his flat collar. Plus, he is pretty good at wiggling out of a flat collar leash, even a martingale. 3) The reward is for non-reactive behavior. It’s fine if he looks at the dog and then looks back at me. Heck, it’s fine if he just looks at the dog until I click. He is learning that there is a dog there, but I am even more worth paying attention to because I have hot dogs! It is rewiring his brain to realize that staying calm and paying attention to me when he sees other dogs get him hot dogs! I’m not a behaviorist but I’ve worked with several and this is the technique they teach when handling leash reactive dogs.
K9 of Mine 1) it’s definitely true that dogs deserve times to sniff and explore but I highly recommend having him in a heel and then have ig a designated area were he can sniff and wonder. Dogs thrive on structure and I was just confused on how you expected him to focus on you when there is a very high distraction when he doesn’t do that when there is no distraction. 2) I only asked as I don’t use harnesses and am always interested in others choice in tools 3) how is he learning that it’s worth paying attention to you when he literally takes the treat and right away goes back to staring at the dog? Even when you were waving the treat in front of his face. He took it, continued to stared at the dog and reacted. So it seems like you are rewarding him for staring (which is still a type of reaction) without meaning too as you are marking the staring and a click on the clicker means that the dog did something that you wanted it too. Another recommendation is that you strengthen your “touch” command and/or work on a “focus” command and mark and reward when he does those, move away if he gets over stimulated.
I’ve worked with many reactive dogs that’s why this video was kinda confusing for me. As none of the many professionals I’ve worked with or talked to have done this training, but there are so many training methods out there🙂
K9 of Mine also thank you for answering!
Astallings 53 Hey there! So a few things - having a designated sniffing area would defeat the purpose of the walk. Walks are my dog’s time to sniff and explore. Keeping him in a heel the entire walk would be stressful and miserable for him. I wouldn’t do that to him. Also not sure why you think he doesn’t pay attention to me when there are not distractions around- he often does. All throughout our walks we do target/ touches. 3) Learning happens via repetition. He is being rewarded for looking at the dog and not reacting. The next level up from that is to click when he looks at the dog and looks away, back to me. He can do this with more distance. But in this situation we were too close. I am clicking and rewarding him for looking at the dog and not barking and lunging - that is the behavior I am rewarding. He is allowed to look at the dog. I’m really surprised you have worked with professionals and never seen this strategy. I’ve talked with certified animal behavior consultants, trainers, and watched many videos on dog reactivity and this is the exact method used. It’s not really anything new or unusual. The dog needs to learn to be able to look at the stimuli without reacting, and that’s what is being reinforced with this strategy. Hope that helps!
K9 of Mine 1) teaching a heel for reactive dogs has been incredibly successful for me as it adds to the structure of the walk and the dogs are focused on learning and successfully doing a heel to get a reward and a lot less focused on other dogs 3) sorry I meant I haven’t seen it done and it actually work.
Thanks for your time. I love asking others training questions so I can fully understand what my clients have tried before (usually along the lines of what you’re doing) and tweak my training so I am able to help more dogs by seeing what works for others and what isn’t working.
Again Thank you for your time. Have fun training!
You did great 😊. Tough situation there. I have a walk with narrow passes and sometimes it's unavoidable that you've got to muscle through. I've just got to remember to head back the way I came to open the distance.
Sometimes there are just no good options!
Thank you. I think I will try this to calm my dog when meeting other dogs. My 7 months old pup gets extremely excited when he sees other dogs. Lunges on the leash, pulls towards them. he isn’t aggressive but he is not too sure of himself when interacting with new dogs. He is asking for play and showing that he is “bigger” at the same time - pumping up his confidence that way, I think. He is frantically jumping up and away from the dog he just met. Lot’s of dogs aren’t too happy about his energy and excitement and he is often ignoring their cues to back away, so he gets growled at 😅 sometimes he even gets spanked by them, so it isn’t really helping his confidence around other dogs. Some dogs totally ignore him and let him jump on their heads, others snap at him. I think this is why he is confused and doesn’t know how to behave when meeting other dogs. I don’t want it to escalate to fear aggression. I think teaching him he needs to be calm when interacting with unfamiliar dogs could help him great deal
Hey Ewa, truthfully my dog is very similar. Most dogs are reactive due to fear, but some dogs are what trainers refer to as "frustrated greeters". These dogs are SO worked up by other dogs and so excited to go say hello that they can't control themselves. As you've noted, the problem with this is that this very enthusiastic and oftentimes inappropriate behavior can make other dogs very nervous, as it's quite rude and pushy. It can also often result in the other dog biting since they are so uncomfortable with the situation! Teaching calmness around other dogs is definitely the way to go!
@@K9ofMine oh yes! Frustrated greeter is just the term. Thank you very much for your response ❤️
Oh I feel your pain! This has definitely happened to me and I have a large GSD...so it looks awful when she lunges and barks. Sometimes it's hard to create enough distance...and omg, the person not leaving! This happened to me once when I was training at a local park and I knew my dog, Layla had enough. Just as we were leaving, a person with a puppy came around the corner...I literally had to run into a person's front yard- and it wasn't a big front yard. I felt like telling the person- 'can you not see I'm struggling and please GO AWAY!' Today was a good day though... sunny Sunday morning and I wanted to take her on a long run, prepared to see a lot of dogs and she did great! I agree about the high value treats- my husband cuts up chicken neck pieces and I bring cheese bits with me. Chicken neck pieces are kept for very high value reward- or when a dog is directly across the street from us :)
I definitely need to try chicken neck - I don't think Remy would take his eyes off of me!
Great video!!!!Very realistic.I say to my leash reactive dog when we spot another 🐕, "let's go" or "leave it" and we move in another/opposite direction where he can not visually see that other dog.The more he can see them,the more he gets worked up. if your dog is simply leash reactive but not dog aggressive,a good therapy is to have them play with other dogs off leash..in a controlled playgroup.
Seeing that other dog owner totally oblivious was so frustrating- I wish people payed more attention to what's going on around them. This video was great, and made me feel better about our morning. Passed a few dogs doing okay and then got stuck on one dog- their owner was also getting treats out and had them sit and watch us and both dogs just lost it. Its so hard for me to not freeze and panic, and it's surprisingly hard to manage a 55 lb dog that's pulling and lunging!
It can definitely be frustrating! I try to practice the "when in doubt, get more space" philosophy, but that can be pretty challenging depending on where you're walking.
I've watched several videos on this issue. I think you're actually doing the right thing compared to others. I haven't yet checked out your other videos to see if you had any follow ups. I use the same techniques.
Follow up will be coming along in the near future!
Hey I really like the camera angle you're able to capture in your videos. Is this just a regular head-mounted action cam?
Pretty sure this was just my phone!
Hi, thank you for this really helpful video. I have a rescue who was jumpy to begin with. Unfortunately, over lockdown it wasn't possible to get her spayed so I was very tense when dogs approached and she's become reactive. It's so frustrating when other dogs owners don't pay attention tho! This gives me hope. Thanks again.
It can definitely be tough working with a reactive dog! Hang in there. There are a lot of people in similar positions due to the pandemic.
This video is so great. Thank you for posting it. I'm struggling with one of my dogs. I think she may actually need medication in addition to continued training. But, regardless of that, seeing this made me feel so much better. I have been feeling as though I've been failing her as a mother. This made me realize that I can't be expected to be perfect either. Maddie and I will just keep working on it together.
I understand - it can be SO HARD working with a reactive dog. Hanging in there, and rest assured knowing that you are doing everything you can for your girl! She is lucky to have you as a dog mom :)
Avoid medication!🇬🇧
I could be wrong but I'm not sure it helps saying "good boy" right after he has barked and tried to lunge at the other dog is a great idea it gives of mixed messages and your almost rewarding him for his bad actions
Hey James! I might have already said this in a different comment, but I’m saying “good boy” when Remy breaks his focus and looks at me instead of the other dog. It’s really important to encourage the behavior you do want (him breaking focus from the dog to me) even if it comes after the dog goes over threshold. Of course it would have been better if he hasn’t reacted at all, but sometimes it happens! I still need to reward him for recovering.
Remy looks just like my dog and reacts to other dogs the same way! When we are too close to another dog, say we were turning a corner and encountered a dog, and it's too late so my dog begins to lunge. What's the best way to respond to that scenario? I know tensing up makes it worse but I instinctively tense up to pull him away. Is there anything I can or should do in that moment?
Hey Abe - what I would suggest is working on a "U-turn" or "Yikes!" command with your dog. Practice in low-stress environment like indoors, your driveway, or an empty street. Walk with your dog and say "Yikes!" (or your chosen command) and then immediately turn around and go back the way you came. Reward your dog when they turn and go back with you. Practice, practice, practice until your dog is a pro. Then - hopefully, when you turn a corner and see a dog, your dog won't mind turning tail and heading back with the "Yikes" command because he knows he'll get something tasty in return!
I've been attending a Reactive Rover class and have been recording our class working on this, along with some other skills. I'll make sure to alert you about it when it's uploaded - hopefully next week or so. Good luck!
I think he was over threshold the from the beginning. Time to possibly re assess the "buffer zone" for Remy....Need more distance to start counter conditioning :) he's beautiful by the way. He lip licked on first click. It would be better to allow him to do what you want to do and not let him rehearse what you do not want.
I agree Kimberly, looking back on this video now, Remy was over threshold basically the entire time. Unfortunately it was impossible to get any more distance than we had going up the neighbor's driveway! Thankfully this video was from awhile ago, and his threshold has gotten much more manageable.
In the 6 years I had my labernese, she still has reactivuty to dogs but on shorter distance. I worked hard to manage her reactivity to be on a very short distance. I'd say that my dog would lunge and bark when another dog is a couple meters away from me and not on the other side of the street. I'll be working on my dog's reactivity on motorcycle and other animals as well. I'll never be on the cellphone while walking my dog and I am always trying to avoid loose leash dogs or dogs on retractable leash wich already makes incomfortable to be around or off leash dogs wich doesn't help with my dog's reactivity. Motorcycles are only out half the year because of winter. I wish that I knew how to dealt with this issues earlier as it would have been easier and probably faster.
I’m not a trainer, but I do work with dogs. Whenever you notice a dog staring at another dog or a person and fixating, you need to get their attention somehow and/or block their line of sight so they can’t stare. It’s the same way that you stop fence fighting
Yes, getting them to divert their focus and put their attention on you is the ultimate goal. But initially focusing on counter-conditioning at a distance works too (giving treats to dog even while they look at the dog to create positive associations). Make sure to check out our follow up video, we’ve come a long way!
Thanks for this video and for rescuing and sticking with a reactive dog. I just did the same thing. You mentioned there were loads of good videos out there on positive training for a reactive dog. Would you be willing to post links to some that you found most helpful?
Sure! KikoPup is a great resource: ua-cam.com/video/Eo-L2qtD7MQ/v-deo.html
Here's another good one from KikoPup: ua-cam.com/video/cbhM4oKZjsE/v-deo.html
This is another good one too: ua-cam.com/video/hyjyOpcAd9E/v-deo.html&
I'd suggest avoiding anyone who advocates for prong collars and corrections, that strategy can really backfire and cause more aggression.
I think maybe click after He looks at you, so it is more of rewarding him paying attention to you instead of rewarding him for looking at the other dog. I am glad you are working on it with him. You are doing great!
I just want to correct myself. What you are doing is good.
Thank you! We’ve managed to work up to him disengaging and looking at me, but initially we just worked on rewarding for non barking/lunging and creating a good association w the other dog.
@@RobinFae6772 the name of this tool is "Click für Blick" as we call it in german. We don't click in the first step the view to the dog owner. We click first of all the view to the distraction. We reinforce every "green" behavior like viewing, sniffing and other. The result is, that we gonna be able to communicate with the dog in an emotional level:to change the exited /aggressive emotion to a calmer and positiver emotion. We also offer an alternative /exercise, for example like searching food or some lessons of obedience or a hand touch, that helps the dogs to hold themselves in an psychic secure and calm state.
Your not rewarding for not barking your actually marking & rewarding the dogs mental intent & emotional state when he's fixated on the other dog.
No hate for anyone that rescues a dog and cares enough to train them, and I respect your ability to self-analyze. For the sake of dialogue though, I do feel like the clicking was pretty off. IMO you want to click at 2:08 and 2:14, when he stops laser focusing on the other dog and instead focuses on you. You were clicking as he stared at the other dog, essentially marking for him that focusing on the environmental object we want to desensitize him to was the right behavior. In my opinion this is also a matter of engagement (when he was dialed in you were saying his name/clicking with no response). To counter condition I would recommend a much more controlled environment where you aren’t dependent on a stranger not talking on his cell phone (something that is entirely out of your control and pretty normal for people to do).
Yeah, a lot of people have suggested that I'm rewarding Remy in this video for undesired behavior, but it's a pretty common strategy to use the clicker as a disengagement tool/distraction, especially early on in training when the dog can't disengage well themselves. Not everyone agrees with doing that, but it's not unusual at all and a pretty common technique for trainers.
At this point trying to break Remy's focus with the clicker was my best bet, and just creating a positive association with strange dogs. As we progressed, I was able to only click to reward Remy for voluntarily disengaging, but that's not really Phase 1.
@@K9ofMine fair enough. You know Remy and what makes him tick infinitely better than any of us, and I recognize that. I just personally prefer primary reward to build positive association if they take it, but like you said he wasn’t even taking your treats because of the distance and type of treat, so the secondary was an interesting idea. Maybe someday I’ll find myself clicking in that scenario too, I just tend to have a different training plan that involves viewing a dog park or trail from a distance and using primary rewards. Then over the course of several days, getting closer and closer without flooding the dog, all the time with high value primary rewards and play. The idea being that seeing other dogs slowly becomes the best part of the day. When I am on a walk, I want the dog’s focus regardless of the environmental factor (it could be an elephant for all I care lol). I want his reaction to always be to look to me when encountering something new or scary. I think a lot depends on the dog and their personality too though, and that’s where your judgment with Remy trumps mine a hundred times over.
I totally agree, the situation you describe is what we aim for now. These days Remy only gets rewarded for looking at me and breaking his focus on the other dog. But this was really early in our training and at that time just building any kind of positive association w other dogs was my primary goal. Truthfully I think clicking just for observing the other dog is more appropriate for fear-based reactivity and not the best option for us because Remy’s reactivity is very much arousal/excitement based, but I didn’t really know that when this was filmed. And obviously this situation wasn’t great because I couldn’t get any more distance.
I think hanging outside of a dog park at a distance is a great idea and in fact, I might make a habit of that this summer!
Thank you for making this video I have been struggling with my dog reacting to other dogs walking by when we are out walking 💙
Hang in there, we know how tough it can be!
OMG, this video is me and my dog to a freaking tee! Just last week, we were standing back waiting for this lady and her dog to pass and she was just on her cell phone not even noticing me trying to keep my dog from having a meltdown. I finally had to let her know that we were waiting for her to pass so my dog doesn't attack her dog. She was totally clueless! I have been trying to practice the techniques in all these videos, but unfortunately, we're still struggling with leash aggression.
Just this week, I fell flat on my face while my tricky dog escaped out of his harness and lunged at another dog. Weird thing is, once he was off the leash, he was just happily sniffing the other dog's butt. But my pride and my bruised knees paid the price. Thankfully the owner was nice. She was more worried about me than my crazy dog. Hopefully, my dog and I will both catch on soon.
It's tough for sure! My dog is similar - he's actually pretty good off leash but is a mess on leash. This is referred to generally as "frustrated greeter", where a lot of the reactivity comes from not being able to run over and say hello.
I used to just let Remy dash over and say hi to other dogs on walks, but it's better to teach your dog to be calm around other dogs. Especially because it can be scary for the other dog to have my giant ultra-excited dog come barreling over to them. It's bad doggy manners!
This video is actually extremely helpful to me as my dog is quite similar to yours with reaction and well in looks too.
Our crazy bois
Hi there, we just adopted a rescue dog Clifford and he reacts identical to Remy, but with some mid air barrel roles. Can you link your harness? We have one that also clicks to his collar which helps with leash biting, but would like a newer one.
Also any tips for bringing him outside of a dog populated apartment smoothly? We work on sit, touch and eyes on me currently.
Thank you!!
Hey Katelyn - the harness in this video actually broke after a couple of months, so now we use the Rabbitgoo harness (amzn.to/3vNVO9V) which has a back and front click option. We also have been using the 2Hounds Freedom Harness (amzn.to/3ep1aTc) lately and I'm a big fan of that one too!
There are some pretty cool leashes out there that have chain for the last foot or so to help with leash biting, it might be worth looking into if that's your main issue.
I totally know the struggle living in an apartment complex with a reactive dog! I used to be in a high-rise but thankfully was only on the 3rd floor so I could just hop down the stairs with Remy, thanks goodness. Hand targeting is a great way to keep your dog's focus. A good heel command might be helpful too.
I'd also suggest having someone run defense and scope out your path before you exit, if possible. I've heard of some folks even carrying an umbrella or piece of cardboard to block their dog's sightline when needed. Just make sure you desensitize your own dog to those items if you plan on going that route!
@@K9ofMine thank you!
Hi are there updates on how Remy has been doing?
Yes! Check the video description to see our 6 month update!
I just started watching your videos! It's really helpful to see how you manage the situation. I will watch more and learn from them! I was wondering if reactivity of your dog is from fear or excitement(frustration)?
Hey Kay! I'm so glad you found this video helpful. Remy is definitely falls under the "frustrated greeter" category of reactivity. I even used to let him approach dogs on leash long before I realized what his issues were, since he'd drag me over to them in a frenzy. He has pretty poor emotional regulation!
Something like this happened to my dog a little while ago ;-;
The owner walked in front of us with 4 dogs, all staring and pulling towards my dog, so she lunged (no surprise there, they were only a few feet ahead of her, and her general limit is 10 feet for multiple dogs)
I then backed up, the owner sat there, then went around the cars next to us and right behind us, and one of the dogs would’ve gotten bit if I didn’t move beforehand and if I instead tried to calm my dog.
So yeah, pay attention when there’s a reactive dog that’s focusing on yours. The simple decision to be ignorant can become a trip to the vet and/or a month of wasted progress with the reactive dog.
Yes, it's very frustrating when other folks' carelessness sets your own dog back. Sorry you had to deal with that, it's no fun!
Omg, I understand!! I've been working on reactivity during walks and some people just seem to not care. My dog is finally getting over his fear of other dogs, and this woman who's knows we are training walks her dogs slowly towards us and taunts him almost every day. He's getting better with other dogs but I had to advocate that it wasn't cute or helpful when she did that, turned out she was doing it for laughs-smh. If my boy had gotten loose to her or her dogs while she taunted him during our training walks than my babe would be put down in the state we live in, but to her it was funny. The treat advise in your video worked like gold, i was using cheese but I think he preferred diced up hot dogs haha! Thank you!
Im about to embark on this exact mission. I thought it was really funny when you put in the animations for 'point of no return' lol
Once you get the hang of your dog’s body language you know exactly when you’ve gone too far haha
I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!!! YOUR MY FAVE
Aww thanks! :)
Hi there,
My dog Baxter used to love greeting dogs on the lead and playing with them when he was little. After an incident when he was on the lead and a dark colored dog came up to him and bit him, he became scared of dark colored dogs and then is scared of all dogs when he is on the lead. He is a Black and Tan kelpie ( a dark coloured dog) and started attacking the mirror when he saw himself. By this point I knew he had issues.
Unfortunately he shows his fear as aggression. We have been to doggie school and saw a vet to see if anything was wrong with him. But nothing was wrong with him. He is very obedient when there are no dogs around on walks while he is on the lead. He enjoys playing with dogs while he isn’t on the lead.
Baxter is agressive to his old puppy friends which are dark coloured dogs. I struggle to work him as I am scared he will bite me and I also find it embarrassing that my dog is aggressive.
Are there any tips or advice which could help him to lean trust back with other dogs on the lead?
Real training in real time. Remi is very cute!!! Excellent.😅
He is a cutie for sure!
Why is the leash not hooked into the top part of the harness? 🤔 Just wondered that. Love the advice
Thanks! To answer your question - a lot of harnesses will have a back clip attachment (which is at the top of the harness) as well as a front clip attachment, which I'm using in that video. A front-clip can make it easier to manage a dog who is pulling and lunging, since when they yank forward, the front-clip attachment kind of forces them to turn around.
How do I do this in a city where there's not alot of space to distance my dog from another dog
Hey Fabian - we're actually releasing a new video soon that covers more about using your surroundings to your advantage. One thing you can do is use parked cars, benches, and trees as visual barriers, which can help a lot to keep a dog under threshold.
Thank you! I recognize that stare. My miniature pinscher has come a long way with walking on leash, but is still pretty reactive to people on bikes or skateboards, squirrels, cats, other dogs, and especially motorcycles. If I don't have a clicker can I use a command like "look at me" instead? We also need to work on him being friendly to people who come into our home. He's a sweet little dog but he's very anxious.
Hey there! The clicker is actually a reward cue, not a command, so the use will be different then what you describe. The click is an easy way of saying “good job, now here comes the treat” and is great for marking good behavior with precision, giving you more time to get out a treat. If you don’t have a clicker, a cue word like “yes” can work as well, just try to be consistent with tone.
“Look at me” would work great as a focus command - that’s what I use too! Hand targeting is another great command for refocusing a dog. But a command is asking for a behavior, whereas clicking or “yes” is just letting the dog know they did well.
A very overwhelmed or aroused dog will have a difficult time following a command, which is why I don’t often ask Remy to “look at me” near a dog unless we have enough distance and I trust that he is capable of focus. Otherwise, he just gets clicks and treats for NOT lunging and barking, even if that just means standing frozen. Hope that helps!
We had a small one( the devil in my dog's opinion) suddenly appear from behind, with his owner the other day. They ran straight past us, but took us totally by surprise, my dog, who's an improving rescue bag of nerves, jumped sideways, and a car was coming. Thank goodness there were speed bumps, or he'd have been hit. It's so hard after that not to join in with the hyper vigillance. I must be getting better though, because i didn't cry!
I totally understand how stressful it can be! Our sensitive pups do keep us on our toes. Sounds like he’s lucky to have you in his corner 🍀
My dog is something like this he goes crazy for dogs when I take him in a walk and is really reactive with people on bikes too any advice I’m going to try to buy that clicker you have
Hey Alex - make sure to check out our other videos on reactivity because we have a lot of great videos on how to counter condition your dog to triggers! For now, just stay at a distance where your dog is under threshold and reward him if he can remain calm. But definitely check out our other videos, I think you’ll find them helpful.
My dog reacts to people and bikes, not other dogs. I live in the city so there's little chance I'd have that kind of distance between my dog and the trigger (the bike path is right next to the park too)
Is this best to do before even attempting off leash training? My dog is reactive regardless of being on-leash or off-leash and I can't even take her to the dog park. I would love to get her off leash, but as it stands right now, I can't even seem to get her to focus on me once something gets her attention (now after looking into the CARE method and this, I understand I am simply too close).
Hey JT - Yes, if your dog can't pay attention to you on-leash, you definitely should not be doing off leash training (unless it's in an enclosed space like a fenced-in yard). The general rule is, your dog should not be off-leash unless you have a rock solid recall. Basically, if you wouldn't be willing to bet $50 that your dog will come back to you when called, the dog should not be off leash!
Practice "look at me" and other games where your dog must pay attention to you - first inside, and then outside in a familiar area, like your driveway or just a boring street in front of your house. Don't even try asking for focus in new environments until she can focus on you indoors and in familiar outdoor settings.
Remember that outdoors can be VERY stimulating for dogs, especially in areas with a lot of smells or environments they aren't normally in. Be patient, your girl is doing her best but it can all be very overwhelming! That's where practice in low-stress environments comes in handy :)
This is sooooo helpful! I just started trying to walk my shepherd walk without lunging, barking and me pulling the leash with all my might! Your video gave me tips that are easy and doable right off the bat!! Thank you!! Your pittie Remmie is soooooo cute!!! 🐾❤️❤️🙏🏻
I'm glad it was helpful - make sure to watch out other videos on reactive dog training too, we have some other great tips you might appreciate. And thank you for the kind words about Remy :) He is quite the handsome boy!
Super late but why clip the bottom of the harness and not the top? My dogs harness also has the bottom clip. Is it more beneficial when training?
The bottom (aka front clip) is good to stop a dog from pulling, since when they pull it kind of turns them around. Not necessarily better for training, just depends on what you need. I usually use back clip harness too but if I think Remy is going to lunge I might do a front clip just so that he can’t pull me so much when he lunges.
@@memicoot thank you so much! My dog does the same. Will definitely try this at her next training!
What are your thoughts on balanced training?
I am not a fan of "balanced training," that uses aversive tools personally. Especially not for reactive dogs.
The goal with a reactive dog is to help the dog practice calmness in response to triggers. An e-collar shock, prong collar, or leash correction will build stress in the dog, adding stress rather than easing it.
If you’re doing your job right working with a reactive dog, utilizing distance and counter-conditioning, there will be no need to correct the dog, as you’ll be working under the dog’s threshold.
The problem is, when balanced trainers choose to correct a reactive dog as it reacts to a trigger, they are trying to work with a dog that is over threshold. A dog who is lunging and barking is already too over threshold - they are no longer in a learning state of mind. The dog is complete overwhelmed, over-aroused, and unable to take in new information or learn in that kind of state.
Instead, the goal should always be to help the dog stay at a distance that is effective to keep the dog in “learning mode” while working on counter-conditioning.
Some balanced trainers may use an e-collar stimulation or correction to stop a dog from staring down a trigger prior to going over threshold. But again, I still see this as adding stress to a situation where your goal is to lessen the stress. It just doesn't make sense IMO and is counter-productive to the end goal, which is change the dog's emotion around triggers, not just stop the outward behavior itself.
@@K9ofMine thanks for the well-written response - truly appreciated.
I have a reactive dog and have been working with him (purely positive) for something like three years now with very little (but noticeable) progress. I went down the internet rabbit hole on training for reactive dogs since my schedule recently changed and I've now got a lot of time to train with him, and there are certainly two schools of thought that seemed like they'd be beneficial - pure positive and balanced.
Problematically, I see the logic behind (mild) corrections with a properly sized/applied/used corrective tool, as well as how those corrections could hide the anxiety (like you said) and just build stress and reinforce the trigger. That's my big fear.
I really appreciate your thoughtful response - I'm trying to gather info to decide and, ultimately, I just want to do right by my dog.
I know how frustrating and confusing it can all be, I've been there myself and can relate! The more I've come to understand my own dog's arousal issues, the less I feel punishment is appropriate for what I am trying to help him with. But of course I know how difficult reactivity can be and I only sympathize with owners who struggle with this, regardless of the methods they choose to pursue!
I will say it's worth noting that "purely positive" isn't a real method - it's more a term balanced trainers use to criticize the force-free camp. Force-free simply refers to not using fear, discomfort, or intimidation to control a dog. Largely, this means not using any positive punishment (adding an unpleasant stimuli as a punishment). But even force-free trainers will use a mix of positive reinforcement along with negative punishment (removing a desired stimuli as a punishment). "Purely positive" isn't really a thing. I know it's kind of confusing, but we did write a more thorough explanation here: www.k9ofmine.com/how-to-not-train-dog-with-aversives-punishment/
Also make sure to check out our other videos if you want to do more force-free reactivity training. And if you're struggling, it might be worth bringing in an outside professional. I'd opt for consulting with a force-free behaviorist who specializes in reactivity before resorting to aversive tools, but that's just me of course.
Regardless of how you move forward, I wish you all the best with your dog!
@@K9ofMine thanks again. I'll check out the link.
I really enjoyed this video gave me a few ticks and tips for my pup.
Glad it was helpful!
I know it's probably going to be a slow process but how would we move from learning to walk by other dogs nicely to actually being able to greet other dogs?
My Dillon has a few dogs he's friends with and does become more comfortable once he's spent a bit of time near a particular dog. Once he's had a good interaction with one, he won't react to them again.
Hey Kathryn! Honestly, I wouldn't recommend encouraging on-leash greetings with strange dogs ever. It's just too risky, you don't know the temperament of the other dog, and leashed interactions are always more stressful since the dogs feel more trapped and don't have an easy means of escape. Instead, I'd focus on finding a few close dog friends - maybe the dogs of people you know well who can vouch for their dog's temperament, or dogs of a similar play style that you meet. Arrange doggie playdates with those tried-and-tested dog friends!
If you want to a good way to meet and greet new dogs who could become new play partners, check out our video on parallel walks - that's the best way to introduce two dogs together. After a walk you can allow some managed greeting and see how it goes from there!
Thank you
My dog is exactly the same, but his threshold is much wider. He doesn't walk back with me though if he sees a dog and we're too close. He's a big boy and stubborn, so I have to fish him back and it blows any training out the window :C
That sounds tough Anna. Have you tried REALLY delicious treats? Or maybe some new meat he has never had before? I found that when I used rotisserie chicken one day for training Remy was much more responsive and attentive than he normally is, simply because he had never had rotisserie chicken before and was super excited about it.
Great video! I’ve been working with my reactive dogs for years - my husband and I walk our dogs together (one is more reactive than the other) so they tend to feed off each other - however we keep a distance between them when encountering another dog which helps and of course they’re both great when walking alone! They’re also great off leash! But the reactivity hasn’t gone away - sometimes it feels like it’s become worse!!! So at this point we keep managing - perhaps it’ll never get better?
I feel you Marianne! Sometimes management is the best you can do. Remy and I have hit plenty of plateaus too. Sometimes hiring a professional behavior expert can make a big difference - I know I discovered several things I was doing that was setting back progress a bit when I brought in a pro. A veterinary behaviorist might also be worth considering - some dogs are just so anxious that they'll really need some meds to have any effective behavior modification work take hold. Hang in there!
Hi, nice video. I was just wondering where did you buy that harness you are using in the video. Thank you.
Thanks Teja! The harness we are using is here: www.amazon.com/Harness-Adjustable-Reflective-Oxford-Control/dp/B072XJC386
I really needed to see and hear this. I just happened to buy the same style leash you had because of my 2 yr old doodle pulling on walks to the point of choking. I'm hoping the lead in chest will help. I've been told to use a prong collar and that will only be the leash that works but he's so scared of it and walks are just us unenjoyable😞 I'm hoping the new harness is good!
Hey Marisa - I'd really encourage you NOT to use a prong collar. Aversive training methods (aka using fear or pain to control a dog's behavior) are really not recommended by experienced, certified trainers who are up to date on the latest science behind dog training.
Prong collars are never a great idea, but are especially dangerous for fearful dogs - and it sounds like your guy is pretty fearful! Having your dog associate fear and pain with your walk can end up working against you in the long run.
There are plenty of great, more gentle anti-pull options out there, like the front-clip harness you bought. There are some others options too (like the Gentle Leader head harness, dual-leash harnesses, etc), I'd suggest checking out our guide to no-pull harnesses for more details. www.k9ofmine.com/best-dog-collar-for-pulling/
However, ultimately, ANY anti-pull harness is just a tool you use to be able to take your dog on walks safely WHILE you work on training. The goal should always be to teach your dog not to pull on the leash and how to loose-leash walk instead.
You may be surprised how many dogs can pick this up quickly. We have a guide here on Loose Leash Walking 101 www.k9ofmine.com/loose-leash-walking/
The easiest method is to just start counting (to yourself) one, two, three on walks. When you reach three seconds, give the dog a treat. Repeat the counting and do this a few times. Now, when you count to three, instead of just giving your dog the treat, hold the treat near the seam of your pants at hand height and wait for your dog to come get the treat from that hand position. Eventually your dog will learn that if he is close to your hip, he'll get treats! That's much better than pulling!
Other strategies also involve halting the walk as soon as there is pressure on the leash. Wait for your dog to let the leash go slack (or call him towards you if he needs some direction) and as soon as the leash is slack, keep walking. Alternatively, as soon as there is slack click, give a treat, and then continue the walk. Rinse and repeat. Obviously this can be tough at first as it might take you 10 minutes to move a few paces with an experienced puller. But eventually he'll learn that pulling doesn't pay!
@@K9ofMine I can't thank you enough for taking the time to tell me those tips. I watch countless training videos and I've bought everything they tell me to get but nothing helps without him being scared. I tried the collar yesterday and he stayed near my side much more than the flat collar. I can never get fit right because when we walk his head is always down sniffing which makes the neck area slack again😞 but I'll try again today and also I'll definitely be checking out the links. Thank you again, it means so much to have positive words and support.
What would you suggest if you see a dog and it’s too close so move away to find another dog coming the other direction?
That’s definitely a tough situation! I would suggest trying to hide - either between two cars or up a driveway to get some distance. Anything to reduce your dog’s sight line so if he has to see them both, at least it’s for as little time as possible.
@@K9ofMine thanks for your reply, I live in a small town so theres always someone walking their dog someone here before I can get to a nice whiter place to practice him focus to me 😊
Your video is helpful. I have the sweetest dog, but she turns into a mad dog when seeing certain dogs on a walk. She turns her head when we pass the german shepard ( our near by neighbors) barking in his yard. I wonder why certain dogs are triggers, and certain dogs she respects. I want to gain control because I avoid walking her knowing I need to yank a 65lb dog that sounds ferocious. What is the clicking device used?
Aw poor thing. Some dogs get hairy with dogs if a certain size or breed due to a past bad experience or just being more intimidated by a larger dog. Hopefully she can start to feel more comfortable around those problem dogs!
That tool is a clicker, it’s used to mark and reward specific behaviors. They are a really handy training tool!
@@K9ofMine - Thank you. She reacts poorly to little dogs most often. I will look into buying the clicker.
I like to use a prong. Front clip harnesses are not good, they alter the dogs gait and can cause shoulder and back injuries
Yes, with prolonge use a front clip can be problematic. That's why the goal is always to teach a dog not to pull, rather than use a tool. I don't support the use of aversive tools like prong collars. They also pose a substantial risk of injury to a dog's throat and use pain to manage a dog, which I don't recommend.
@@K9ofMine prongs don't hurt tho lol
@@ittoscrustysock7534 I'm sure that would make you feel better about using one, but that's not true sadly.
@@K9ofMine it is tho, Ive even tried it on myself and it didn't hurt. I'm not saying you have to use one, but they're great if you know what your doing
@@ittoscrustysock7534 Using it on your arm or wherever else will not be the same sensation as around your dog's neck with great force. Also, keep in mind that prong collars wouldn't work if they didn't hurt... why else would they stop your dog from pulling?
Remi is so BEAUTIFUL AHH! I'm dying! This pittle stole my heart, and your training tips helped me a lot! I'll be subbing and seeing more videos in the near future. Thank you for making this video! 💕
Thank you! I think he’s pretty adorable too. And even cuter when he’s not causing a scene, haha.
My dog is leash reactive to dogs when on walks. She will also bark occasionally people but only if they talk me and my sister, but were I live there arnt many dogs on walks so it is hard to work with her on it, the good thing is that she has gotten better with people but dogs are still not that good.
I feel you, it's not easy having a reactive dog! As far as practicing, that can be the benefit of working with a trainer since they have access to other dogs to practice with. You could also try using Nextdoor or a local FB group and ask folks in your area who do have dogs to meet up one day and let you practice walking by.
I was training my 10 month old pup I adopted 3 months ago. I could not walk her for almost 2 months cause I sprained my ankle badly, my hubby had been doing it for me.
Yesterday, a lady followed us close and I was walking away from her and getting the dog to continue walking and saying leave it. The lady followed us closely and I went to someones driveway away from the dog behind us. Lady looked like she wanted the dogs to meet and greet, I know my pup is not ready for a meet and greet yet in her training as she can be reactive. Well, it is the 2nd time she did became reactive, since I got her. Need to desensitise her more.
It can definitely be tough navigating overly friendly neighbors! I've learned to be a lot more vocal about the fact that Remy isn't ready for meet-and-greets.
Mine is reactive to people who get too close and creating distance is not always an option because I live in the city. Any tips?
Check out our follow up video, you might find some of those tips more helpful: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html
In a city, parked cars can really work in your favor. Use physical barriers to lessen the intensity and obstruct direct sight-lines to other dogs.
It's around 7 or 8 months after you posted this video and I have a question, did your dog get less reactive? Did the training work? I have the same problem with my dog and I'm trying to train her but it doesn't seem to be working.
Great question! Yes, we have seen a big improvement. You can see our follow up video here: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html
I won't lie though, it takes work and time. Progress is slow and steady. This isn't the kind of thing that takes days to resolve, more like months. If your dog continues to bark and lunge, you may need more distance from the triggers and possibly higher value treats. I hope that helps, good luck!
@@K9ofMine Thank you! That's gonna be useful info!
@@K9ofMine any suggestions for a dog that is actually aggressive and will not take treats at all? A dog that will redirect it's aggression to the handler when the target cannot be reached. Thanks. X
It says this video was posted a year ago, did you get it fixed? I've had my dog about a month and a half and he's worse than this. I've tried everything I can think of including a prong collar and nothing works, he doesn't care, he's completely focused on the other dog even if it's a mile down the trail.
Hey Frank! Sorry to hear you are struggling with reactivity with your dog. I definitely understand what a challenge it can be!
Reactivity isn't really something that's easily resolved overnight - it takes some work and ongoing effort. Remy has definitely improved - make sure to check out our other video about reactivity to see how he has progressed: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html
But, I can't say he is "fixed" and honestly, he might always be a reactive dog. However, we've reached a manageable point that I can live with - we can see dogs across the street and be fine, but we can't get any closer.
Some dogs will be mostly fine after a couple of months of hard work. Some, like Remy, will improve but might always have some reactive behaviors. I think of it a bit like being a recovering alcoholic - you'll always essentially be an alcoholic to some degree, you'll always struggle with the temptation of alcohol and your relationship with it. But over time and with work, you'll develop good coping mechanisms and strategies to keep yourself happy and safe.
I'd suggest reflecting on what situation would be manageable for you and your dog. I for one had a lot of expectations of trips to the dog park and taking Remy everywhere with me. It was hard for me to accept that Remy will never be that dog, but when I did comes to terms with that, it was easier for me to figure out what I NEEDED from Remy, vs what I wanted (but could ultimately be OK without).
I will say that a month and a half is a pretty short amount of time. If you've only had this dog for a month, he's probably still adjusting to your home. A new home can be a really stressful transition for a dog - some dogs take up to three months to really settle down! So I wouldn't be too hard on him right now.
One easy way to start things off is just work on changing his association with other dogs. Try to stay at distance away from other dogs where he isn't completely losing his mind barking and lunging, because at that point "learning mode" is out the window since he's over-threshold. So, at a distance where can still be (relatively) normal, try just tossing a bunch of treats on the ground. You might need something high value like chicken or string cheese!
Sniffing and eating is soothing for dogs, so this will naturally lower your dog's blood pressure and help him chill a bit. Keep doing this and he'll learn that A) seeing other dogs = treats B) he should look to you when he sees other dogs because you're about to throw down some awesome tasties!
This is called classical conditioning - you're changing your dog's association from negative to positive. Once you've done that for a bit, you can transition to more operant conditioning, which is rewarding your dog for a specific desired behavior. A great way to do this with a reactive dog is through the engage/disengage game (we have a video all about that here: ua-cam.com/video/FBXwaAG_JaQ/v-deo.html)
I know this can all seem like a lot, but I do promise it gets easier over time. It will take some real effort on your part though. If you're struggling, I'd suggest reaching out to a Certified Dog Behavior Expert (we have a video on how to find one too, check out our library). Don't just work with any old trainer because if they aren't an expert in reactivity they might offer some bad advice that can make the situation worse.
Good luck, hang in there! We're rooting for you.
I have a 9 month old gsd and I don’t know what to do. I live in a small town where if I stop to train her like this people look at me like I have 2 heads. The paths are also small so it can be impossible to keep a good distance from others, and even to walk to a field I have to walk past other people to get there. She goes crazy at any people we see and it’s so embarrassing
Don’t let the judgement of other people keep you down! Most people have no idea how to deal with reactive dogs, they just don’t get it. So ignore them. You’ll really need to start out walking her in areas where you can get plenty of distance - those narrow paths will have to be off limits for a while. Make sure you check out our other videos on reactivity to get some tips. Hang in there!
Telling people to move along often does not end well. But I share your frustration. People who approach with their dog when you’re obviously trying to keep them separated. If that guy stood there for literally five minutes though, that’s crazy.
Yeah, honestly, I probably wouldn't tell him to keep moving... just wishful thinking!
Thanks for this video I really needed it for my rescue dog she has the same harness as your pup as well! :)
Hi! Can you share what harness this is??? I've been looking for a front clip one that would be good for reactive dog. Thank you!
@@calholl also the red on the clips is a sliding lock so your can make sure nobody can remove the harness.
@@-demon_dog-8511 Thanks- do you know the name/brand? Thanks!
@@calholl SORRY I guess my reply from yesterday didn't come through when I said the name but the harness comes in 12 different colors ranging from Small to XL it's on Amazon it's called "BABYLTRL Big Dog Harness No Pull Adjustable Pet Reflective Oxford Soft Vest for Large Dogs Easy Control Harness" it's currently 12.99 was the original price is 17.99
My dog does this, but more intense. I got him with the hopes I would be able to take him to a dog park and let him socialize. It’s still not a possibility. The good thing is he never barks, but he’s already but another dog and always reacts to other dogs no matter what I try.
I definitely dreamed of taking Remy to the dog park when I first got him too! The good news is that dog parks are overrated and can actually be quite dangerous and exacerbate behavior issues!
We have a video on tips for training a reactive dog here: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html
It's mostly about distance, rewarding for calm behavior and disengagement, and keeping your dog below threshold as much as possible. Definitely don't hesitate to hire a certified behavior consultant or an experienced force-free trainer if you're struggling. A pro can make a huge difference just figuring out where you need to improve. Good luck!
I have a big gsd x maremma that is very strong she is 9 months and reactive 😫 I need help
That's really tough Ezra! Hopefully our videos can help, but I'd also recommend reaching out to a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant through the CCPDT (www.ccpdt.org/certification/dog-behavior-consultant/). Good luck, I know it can be really tough!
This is the perfect use of the clicker
Much more effective to use “YES” rather than a clicker; use whenever your dog looks back at you in any situation…🇬🇧
I think the reason it's not working is because your dog isn't understanding what you want from him. Also, harnesses only encourage pulling, there is no real resistance happening that is powerful enough to deter such a strong dog. My dog used to be the same way, except he was also aggressive. We never were able to make progress with him using methods like this. When Remy is staring at the other dog and you click you are rewarding his heightened excitement. The clicker marks the desired behavior, even though you aren't rewarding the lunging and barking you are rewarding him just before he explodes. He wasn't actually under threshold because he was still fixated on the other dog. You also are using treats at the beginning of the training instead of paying him after he's preformed properly.
For my dog, he was to the point he was almost put down. Teaching him focus and side were absolute game changers, as well as the prong and e collar. When your dog has tunnel vision he doesn't care about your clicker or your voice. A pop on a prong or a loud noise followed by redirection and behavior modification was the only thing that worked for us. He went from a dangerous out of control lawsuit waiting to happen, to an under control dog that doesn't only preform or listen when food or toys are involved.
Harness do not encourage pulling. No tool encourages pulling. The goal is not to use force or coercion, but to help the dog learn to disengage from the trigger themselves. You can't reinforce an emotion. Most dogs are reactice due to fear, and utilizing a prong collar or e-collar increases the negative association. If your dog is already afraid of another dog, and you begin to incorporate pain when they see another dog, it's no surprise that their fear towards other dogs only increases.
In this context, the clicker is also being used to get Remy's attention away from the other dog. It helps him break his focus. The only reason it did not work in this situation was because I was too close to the trigger.
If your dog has tunnel vision it is not because he needs a firm correction. It means you as a trainer have not assessed the situation and have the dog in a position where he is over threshold. In this case, I should have had more distance. I would never use a prong or e-collar on Remy. As a dog with aggressive issues, many dogs who have been trained with an e-collar or prong end up with increased aggression due to the elevated stress and anxiety these tools cause.
I'm glad you found something that has worked for you and your dog. If your're intrested, we have a follow up video in the description showing the progress we've made. These strategies do work, they are what are used by certified animal behaviorists, and they are the least harmful techniques with the lowest risk of fallout.
Front clip harnesses really aren't good especially for dogs who pull. You should also try out a prong collar for him, the clicker doesn't seem to get his attention at all.
Front clip harnesses are specifically designed for dogs who pull - when they move forward, the front clip causes them to spin around, negating a lot of the pulling power. I would never use a prong collar on Remy because A) I don't support the use of aversive tools that cause intentional pain or discomfort B) A prong collar increases stress, and since Remy is already reactive and dealing with a lot of stress, that kind of tool would make Remy more anxious and nervous, not less. C) Remy already has trachea damage due to his previous owners using a prong collar - even the slightest throat tension causes him to gag and cough.
In this situation, Remy did not respond to the clicker because he was over threshold. Clickers are great tools, but in this situation we were really just too close to the other dog to have it be effective as a distraction (and some would fairly argue it shouldn't even be used in that manner).
@@K9ofMine Front clip harnesses cause joint issues, can cause trachea damage, and frustrates dogs who have reactivity issues. Prongs don't cause pain, also front clip harnesses are considered an aversive tool because they cause discomfort when the dog pulls. Prongs distribute even pressure, the prongs are rounded not sharp at all, prongs were made to be painless and to prevent trachea damage. Do research on the tools you use, and the tools you're against. His old owners did not use a real prong collar, the trachea can't be damaged by a well fitted real prong because they have a treachea plate. My rescue Bull terrier has severe joint problems because his old owners used a front clip harness when he was a puppy, real herm springer prong collars are harmless, front clip harnesses aren't. Get a head halter or use a slip lead for more control that won't damage the dog or frustrate it :) But of course it's your choice and your dog.
Yes, any piece of gear can potentially cause harm. Even a standard flat collar can hurt a dog’s trachea if they constantly pull. So sure - a front clip harness CAN cause issues over time, but it’s not designed to inflict discomfort or pain, and when well-fitted, the risk is minimal.
Prong collars are designed to inflict pain or - at the very least - discomfort. How do you think such a tool works? Why would it stop a dog from pulling unless it hurt?
If you choose to use a prong collar, that’s your choice. But don’t be willfully naive about how it works. Any balanced trainer will tell you a prong collar causes discomfort… that’s why it works. You really need to understand what the goal of such a tool is.
I’m sorry your pup has joint issues - any vet would absolutely agree that front clip harnesses shouldn’t be used on puppies, as their joints are being developed. Luckily Remy is a full grown adult dog.
As I said, I don’t support the use of aversive tools and won’t be using a prong collar on my dog. They are very poor tools for reactivity, as they increase stress and do nothing to resolve the dog’s inner turmoil, instead shutting down the dog’s communication.
@@K9ofMine I clearly said it distributes even pressure, a front clip harness is far more uncomfortable. I was recommending better options, not asking for your biased opinion on prong collars. And you are incorrect again, well fitted prongs do not add stress, especially for fearful dogs. I've put a prong collar on my own neck before using it on any of my dogs or any of the dogs that I train. Again, do in depth research. Prong collars are even very commonly used on service dogs and police dogs, it's the best tool for training reactive dogs, but of course every dog is different.
@@K9ofMine Also like I said before, front clip harnesses are considered aversive tools because it causes discomfort and effects the natural gait of the dog while pulling them back when they pull forward. Anyway, have a nice night because I'm not here to argue.
Yeah distance what I'm gonna do if I walk my dog on path and have to walk by other people or dogs its impossible
Does anyone know what breed this is
He’s a pit mix (mostly APBT and Staffy)
Why would you mark that behaviour as a positive? Genuinely curious
At this stage, Remy just looking at another dog without reacting is a net win, which is why I was trying to click for him looking at the other dog prior to going over threshold. But there are actually a few different theories on how to use treats like this. A lot of times you can change the dog's underlying emotion just by feeding treats around a trigger. So by feeding Remy while he's in the presence of dogs, I can change his underlying emotion from stress and anxiety to positive emotions (aka when I see a dog, I get a cookie, so other dogs are actually awesome).
Looking back now years later, the better option here would have been to simply rely on management strategies like treat scatters because Remy was over threshold already for most of this encounter.
My dog is really reactive, he’ll lunge and bark at other dogs, mostly big ones. It took us a year but he finally will take treats from me outside (and will sit but its like 50/50). I only use chicken treats outside (we do both freeze dried and plain, cooked). I will have to try the cooked hotdog!
Congrats, that's great progress! I know it's not easy but it sounds like the hard work is finally paying off.
Good video but I recommend using the neck leash so u can correct more :)
Collar* not leash
I don’t support using corrections for reactivity. A collar would certainly be easier, but Remy has a neck injury from his previous home (maybe due to someone going crazy on collar corrections, who knows) and even the slightest pressure on his neck results in a coughing fit! Poor guy.
Mijn hond gaat zitten of midden op de straat liggen dan zit er geen beweging meer in schaam mij kapot hij luister dan voor geen cent en snoepjes helpen dan totaal niet jammer genoeg 😐te veel prikkels midden in de stad geen tijd om zich op mij te focussen.
Let me contribute with my experience: this dog is/was walking in front of you. Unless you are able to have full control and have the dog by your side with no tension on the leash its game over (my dog is very leash-reactive) so first you need to work on absolute leash reactivity. Once this is fixed, you need to give the treats while moving towards the object of excitement a lot of them to desinsibilize the dog but you are the leader of the pack the dog needs to first learn that his objective while walking is to follow, observe and sense you AT ALL TIMES. Thats how I fix my dog. Leash reactivity method working for me: see Beckmanns channel.
I totally understand your point of view, but I have to disagree on some things. Honestly, having Remy in a tight heel is just not the way to go for him. He is very easily aroused, and we've had much better success letting him sniff and giving him other means of engagement such as with treat scatters, etc. Him being in a tight heel would be very stressful for him, and a tight heel just isn't a priority for us.
The whole "your dog can't walk in front of you" mindset is pretty outdated at this point, as is the concept of being "alpha" and the idea that you need to be a "pack leader" for your dog. I mean -- if you don't want your dog to walk in front of you, that's up to you, but it's not a priority for me as long as Remy is not dragging me around. Dogs walk faster than humans, they're naturally going to be ahead of us a lot.
I totally get what you mean about engagement - and I've managed to get great engagement with Remy through pattern games and asking for a focus cue. But honestly, I don't love it. I'd rather have him sniff and experience his environment than stare at me for 15 minutes, as it's kind of un-nerving and not fun for either of us.
Everyone has different goals and expectations for their dog. But my goal is not to control Remy perfectly so that when I say A he always does B without question. People who get hyper fixated on control usually end up with a personality-less, shut-down dog, and that's not the relationship I'm looking for. My goal is to get him to feel more comfortable and relaxed in his environment.
I'm glad you found something that worked for you!
I'm sure you realize that you can't always take treats with you everywhere. Need to utilize other methods and also the harness is not the right kind, IMHO. I personally don't believe in harness (chest) collars but looks like he's moderately dog aggressive too but not horribly so. His is manageable.
When we are doing training sessions yes, I will always have treats with me. I can and will always bring treats on walks and don't take Remy into situations where I am unprepared. It's just about prepping for our adventures. If by "other methods" you mean a prong collar, I could say the same about that - "you can't always have a prong collar on your dog."
Interesting that you "don't believe" in harnesses (whatever that means). Front clip harnesses work great for us. Harnesses are not for managing reactivity, they are simply for a bit more control on walks. I would be fine with a standard flat collar, but Remy has a damaged trachea from his past owners (who knows, maybe they were using a prong collar), so harnesses are the only option for us.
@@K9ofMine I don't use a prong collar even though it's useful for some dogs while it's not for others. I use a head collar. The harness for anti pulling didn't work but the head halter collar works wonderfully. My daughter can walk my 65 lb catahoula now with just a single finger if it comes down to it. He hates the head halter collar though but has learned to accept it. I used to walk with him on a prong collar. It worked at first but when the years went on, he learned to lean and slowly pull with it on so I had to go back to square one. It works for other dogs that I have but not for this one. I have no idea why. Catahoulas are complicated creatures, lol. Mine are actual working hog dog hunters.
@@TedH71 Wow, hog hunters? That sounds neat! We did try a head halter initially but Remy was a huge baby and would collapse onto the ground and refuse to move lol. I know we could have gotten him more used to it with more practice, but I ended up stopping, especially after hearing some people claim it could cause some serious neck and spine damage (it seems like every harness or collar will have someone claiming it physically injures dogs, so who knows). Maybe we'll try it again though.
@@K9ofMine Frankie did that crap. I had no patience for his nonsense and kept walking and corrected him every time he started to paw at his face. Not all head halter collars are created equal. I'll have to look up the brand. I think it was Gentle Leader. Their harness does NOT work. Frankie's worst habit is pulling while walking literally. He does not have dog reactiveness though while walking unless the dog is trying to attack him over by the fence and I'm able to get him to quit talking back. Catahoulas are talkers and prone to selective dog aggression when they're mature around 2 to 3 years of age. Lots of catahoula breeders don't tell puppy buyers that. I personally believe catahoulas are very prone to Littermate Syndrome if they're raised in suburban areas. I refuse to sell littermates to people who live in the suburbs. I might if the person in question lives rurally and hog hunts because you have to intensively train them separately which can break that intense bond. Catahoulas are also used to round up cattle. I've not had the right connections to get my dogs cattle work. My Frankie started showing selective dog aggression (esp against males) around age 8 which was surprisingly late and he's 10 now. Typical catahoula behavior, I promise. People are shocked when their little catahoula decides they don't like another dogs at the dog park. I don't ever take my dogs to the dog parks. They are easily offended by rude dogs and will go off on them to correct them for their behavior. One example is a dog that probably is a lab or golden retriever who will charge up to your dog and slam on the brakes and nearly slam into your dog. That's a doggy version of F you. My catahoulas HATE this and will and have taken down dogs doing this to them. They prefer the polite sniffing of butts and tails greeting. They also will NOT tolerate another dog pawing on their shoulders because to them, it's showing that the other dog wants to be alpha and is testing them. Even my most submissive catahoula will bite in that situation.
@@TedH71 Ah yes, Gentle Leader is what we used. I wouldn't suggest correcting a dog for fussing with a head halter, that will just build a negative association with the halter. Instead, I'd offer treats throughout the walk to create a positive association. But of course that takes time and patience. I agree, dog parks are usually bad news. Remy behaves exactly as you described off leash - charges as fast as he can and then halts right in front of the other dog. That's why he is not allowed to play with others anymore - he's too rude!
You don't talk to him name, action, click. You go on edge as soon as you see a dog sending tension down the lead. Head up, control and carry on walking.
Thanks for commenting, but that would never work for us. If we kept walking Remy would definitely react. Going up a driveway and getting more distance is what we needed at this stage in our training.
You need to practice basic obidience during these encounters. Treats are good at the right time but here they will not help your dogo get over his problem. Your dog's behaviour shows atm that you are not in charge of the situation nor is he looking up to you for guidance in these moments. Balanced training is your key to success.
My second thought after watching your video is that I would not use clicker to get the dogs attention. Rather make a sound of some sort for example and when you get attention - click and reward. Because when you start to think of it - what are you really clicking here? The dog is amped up 110% concentrated on the dog and you are clicking and rewarding it.
No, reactivity has nothing to do with obedience. It’s a behavior problem, not obedience. Remy actually has a great sit, stay, and place cue established among others. Treats are in fact the beat way to change your dog’s association with a stimulating trigger, encouraging calm rather than fear. I’d suggest you read up on reactivity as it sounds like you don’t really understand what’s happening for the dog cognitively.
While you’re not using the word dominance, you are implying as much. My dog very much looks to me for help in these situations, but if I put him in a situation where he is too close to a trigger, he is going to react because he is over threshold. Me doing a leash pop is not going to change what distance he requires to feel safe and calm. That is where long-term counter conditioning comes in.
@@r.i.s.t.o I’ve already answered this several times in other comments, but it’s a very normal practice to use the clicker as a distraction to re-orient the dog towards you. But generally I would agree. I prefer using a sound or kissy noise to get Remy’s attention and rewarding that disengagement.
You cannot successfully longterm cure the problem with treats. I hope as the time goes by you understand it while the problem does not improve or goes worse.
Your dog needs guidance and leadership. He needs you to be there to show him what to do in these situations. That is the only way to get him to calm down. It has nothing to do with brute dominance.
Have a look at the NoBadDog channel for help.
Yeah we’re not going to agree on this. Desensitization and counter conditioning are the strategies that certified dog behaviorists, who resolve issues like this for a living and are educated in dog cognition, use to resolve reactivity like this.
Teaching a dog how to be calm in the face of triggers is guidance, and that’s exactly what counter-conditioning does. To me it’s so obvious why shocks or corrections would be inappropriate in a situation like this, but it’s not clear to everyone I suppose.
I’d suggest you check out my other videos, as Remy’s reactivity has indeed improved by using these behaviorist-recommended techniques.
Totally understand your points but the owner and other dog should be free to do as they please. They weren't the ones that were reactive.
I don't see an issue with telling them my dog is reactive and requesting they don't linger too long directly in front of us. After all, they don't want to be harassed by my dog either!
@@K9ofMine I mean .. shouldn't it be on you guys to move at that point, though? there is a courtesy aspect, sure, but it shouldn't be their responsibility not to 'linger' on a big wide street because someone else's dog struggles not to freak out even at a distance .. maybe if it were a cramped little sidewalk or something but ..
@@ipunchbeeswell.. she makes it two of her 5 points in the video about "5 things not to do" .. one of which is that the other guy was on a cellphone.
although ... in the summary she's using it as a general example of being aware of other people who are not aware of themselves and their dog's behavior
in the video it came across really differently to me
her reply kinda made it feel that way too, and it seemed like there was room to move.. I don't think she had to stay stuck there either??
My dog is too uneasy to focus on treats. Even at a distance she would be barking like anything and pulling towards them. She does it to people, dogs and nothing. I don't know what to do with her
Aw poor thing. How is she inside? Sounds like outside is really tough for her. You could start desensitizing and counter-conditioning just in your yard or driveway, in familiar outdoor areas that aren't as scary.
@@K9ofMine inside she's fine. But if she hears a noise she'll bark a little same as my other dog. Outside if she hears a noise she does the same but she loves being in the garden. Sounds like a good idea! Thank you!
I know I'm a bit late to this video, but this is seriously so so helpful.
My dog (my profile picture) is severely leash reactive to other dogs and some people, so it's helpful to see what I'm doing that I could work on!
The words at the end were super nice to hear too, I feel like a lot of the time, he's a lost cause, or I should just give up, but I know the more I keep trying, the better he'll get :)
I know it can be super hard - check out our other videos on reactivity too because I've been working a lot on this with Remy. I think it's definitely a matter of adjusting expectations as well as a lot of counter-conditioning. Good luck, I know working with a reactive dog can be stressful.
Every video i see the dogs aren't nearly as bad as mine. I have no clue on what to do.
It’s OK, I know how frustrating all this. Remember that this is just what I was able to catch on camera - he’s definitely had worse outbreaks than this. I would also say don’t wait to try medication, it can make a huge difference!
Why is that guy still there🤣🤣🤣 ... is he a part of this training video???🤔
How long will this take until we can just walk by and my dog doesn’t react? I’m growing impatient! :)
Hey Kaitlyn, it really depends. It can take months of training work and practice - this isn't really the kind of thing that resolves overnight. Check out our update video if you'd like: ua-cam.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/v-deo.html
Walking by another dog without your reacting will depend on a number of things - the environment, your distance from the other dog, how much practice you've done with games like engage/disengage, etc.
Kaitlyn -- impatience in any type of dog training, whether teaching tricks, working on behavior modification, training for sports etc., is not a good plan. Besides getting there is half the fun! Good luck.
Did Remy ever learn using this method?
Yes, he has improved a lot with desensitization and counter-conditioning. Hoping to post an update video soon!
Is he friendly off leash?
The answer is not a simple "yes" or "no" unfortunately. When I initially got Remy, I would let him play off leash with neighbor dogs or at the dog park (bad idea but I didn't know better back then). He was happy, but would play very rambunctiously and was sometimes very rude, barking in the face or dogs until they would run around with him. A few times I noticed him nipping the heels of other dogs while running with them.
Then one day, he was playing with some neighbor dogs and a scuffle broke out - I wasn't there and have no idea who "started it" but he was notably more reactive after that incident. I decided Remy needed to learn some play manners. I took him to a trainer who practiced letting him socialize with other dogs in the day camp while wearing a muzzle, to be safe. He mostly just barked a lot. He had a few good play sessions, but as I learned more about dog body language, I realized that the way he would run up and charge other dogs - even if it was just to play - was not OK or fair to the other dogs.
Since then he has not been allowed to play off-leash. Even if I know he is trying to play, his intimidating lunges and rudeness shouldn't be something other dogs have to deal with. I hope maybe if his reactivity can improve, maybe with supervision he could play off leash again at some point, but right now it's not something I'm even considering.
So what Ive learned here is sometimes you have to walk on other people's property and people aren't allowed to move freely on a cell phone outside in public areas and must pay attention to you and your dogs needs at all times.
Exactly.
I don't think you should necessarily ask the other dog owner to keep moving. I think you need to be proactive and turn around yourself. Asking another dog owner to do something for you could ..... well, not go well, depending on the other dog owner's attitude. I just turn around and maybe double back several minutes later.
I agree asking the other person to keep moving might not work out well depending on who you're talking to. In this case I was already backed up my neighbor's driveway and couldn't go anywhere else. Otherwise I agree, getting more distance yourself is usually the best option.