Ordered a bunch of stuff from drip depot for a 1500sq foot garden. It came pretty fast and was nicely packaged. What won me over though was a couple of tootsie pops placed in a bag with the paper work. Me and my daughter sat on the floor and ate the Tootsie pops while we did the inventory on our new system. Nice touch drip depot. Also all these UA-cam videos are awesome to reference. You can tell the difference between a company that just wants to sell you something and one that wants you to be happy. Will be ordering from you in the future.
Thank you truly for the kind words! Glad you liked the tootsie pops, I probably eat a few too many of the chocolate ones myself since we have boxes of them :)
Heather, as agreed your check is in the mail for the comment ;) All kidding aside, this is one of the first things I walked into Monday morning, so a huge thank you! This set the perfect tone for not just the day, but the week. And I'm printing it out and hanging it in my office. If any questions come up during your install, send them my way (seriously!) I'll be happy to assist :)
I was just wrapping things up for the evening down here when this came in... Man, thank you for sending me hope in an absolutely great mood, I truly appreciate it!
By far the BEST guide I've seen for anything ever. I don't consider myself handy, but it seems that it was just due to mediocre/poor explanations in the past! This makes the set up seem so simple. Thank you so much for this; I almost gave up on drip irrigation!
Thank you for the kind words! What a great way to start Friday morning over here :) If any questions come up while you plan and install your system, don't hesitate for a second to reach out, I'll be happy to assist!
These videos make me feel like I can absolutely do this. I can’t wait to make a blueprint and order some kits from you guys - thank you so much for the incredibly clear explanations!
Thank you Elizabeth! That was our entire goal with this video series, to make drip irrigation easier for everyone. This comment means a lot. We're here to help after everything arrives as well -- you can reach out there or on our website with any and all questions and we'll get back to you (usually within minutes during office hours) :)
Ann, thank you for the kind words! Straight forward and understandable was what I was hoping for on that one -- your comment here is the absolute best way to head into the weekend, thank you truly :)
Yulia, thank you for the feedback, truly! That's exactly what we hoped when built this one, we wanted it to "click" for everyone -- once it clicks, it starts getting easier :) Thank you sincerely!
You are out here SAVING LIVES. 😪😘 I only have three,3 ft tall beds at present but I'm going to go with your list because...why reinvent the wheel...plus I will get more beds.
I had a quick look at your channel, and I think you're the one out saving lives (and thank you for that)! I'm absolutely glad I could help with your garden and raised beds though =D If any questions come up while you plan out your system, don't hesitate to drop a line 😀
Your videos have been extremely helpful while I've been installing my drip irrigation system! Planning is the key to getting it right. I messed that up a few times because I couldn't figure out which zones I needed to be able to water by themselves, but we're on track now, and I think I finally have everything I need to complete the job.
Thank you for the kind words Cathy! You're in good company, we mess up the planning stage ourselves from time to time. The very first video project I did (gravity system) I had to go back the next day with the parts I'd missed on the first day lol :)
@@dripdepot Thanks, I'm wondering if I should use drip line or drip tape or both for my garden. I will have 20 rows of corn, 5 tomato plants, a 6ish ft long trellis wall for cucumbers, a 50ft long trellis wall for green pole beans, 4 squash mounds and 6 pepper and herb plants.
The description of your garden is making me hungry, must be close to lunch! How long are your rows going to be? You could allow that to guide your decision -- 1/4" drip line is good for up to about 30' (with 12" spacing, less with 6"), drip tape is good for very long rows (hundreds of feet in some cases). If the rows are closer to your trellis length (50'), drip tape would be the better solution for sure. If the rows vary and you have some short and some long, it is possible to use both on the same system, you'd just want to make sure they have similar flow rates (or plan accordingly for some plants needing less water, some more). And now to satisfy this craving for some fresh vegetables lol
@@dripdepot Lol Thanks! its going to be a great garden I hope. My corn rows will be approximately about 40 ft long and I have my 5 staked tomatoes in a row with the cucumber trellis which is also approximately 40 ft long. Do you think I could get away with only using drip lines, or should I use drip tape for the 40 ft rows and 50ft trellis wall? Thanks soo much for the help. I'm making my cart as we speak.
That's awesome you're growing corn! I lost mine to the raccoons both times I've tried, grr. Maybe this will be the year haha. I think with 40' to 50' you can safely eliminate 1/4" drip line and can focus on 1/2" drip line or 5/8" drip tape. The two are very similar, the biggest difference is in cost (tape costs less), durability (1/2" drip line is more durable), and flexibility -- 1/2" dripline can wind a little bit, drip tape has to be in perfectly straight rows (not a problem if you're planted in straight rows of course) :)
Having some extra fittings during the install can be handy, there's always that doesn't go according to plan. And definitely send back the unused ones, we'll get you refunded, no restocking fees :)
That's great news! And confidence is definitely a big part of it, that's actually one of our goals with these videos: helping folks gain the confidence to dive on in. :)
You can indeed loop the ends! On raised beds I don't think it would improve efficiency any, but it also wouldn't hurt it -- we do like to loop the ends when we're doing bigger plants like trees or shrubs though :) We connect both sides of the drip line to a 1/4" tee to make a ring out of it -- that gets emitters to all sides of the plant's root zone, which in turn encourages even root growth.
If any questions come up, let us know, we'll absolutely be happy to assist. We've seen that attitude in retail irrigation stores before as well, very strange!
😊😊😊What a great video!! Have my cart going! I can't find the hose adapter on your website "AS PICTURED" in the video at time 7:09 can you send a link to this exact one. Thanks for the greatest video ever!!! Also my hose spiket is so low to the ground.. what can I use to bring it sideways..?
Thank you too Penny! Thank you for the best comment ever (truly!) The exact hose adapter I used in the video is this one here: www.dripdepot.com/perma-loc-tubing-by-fhts-elbow-adapter-thread-size-three-quarter-inch-fht-perma-loc-size-half-inch That one is also a good one for situations in which the spicket is low to the ground, so you're definitely on the right track! Penny, I don't normally answer questions with a video link, but we actually made a video that's perfect for your question -- the video covers multiple ways to setup head assemblies on spickets that are low to the ground (maybe the second greatest video ever? 😄). Here is the link to that one: ua-cam.com/video/rMTwhC-nSOc/v-deo.html If any questions come up, don't hesitate for a second to reach out, I'll be happy to help :) Thank you again Penny, loved your comment!
Thank you for taking the time out to answer. I have been binge watching all your videos! They are so dang good!!!! I am going to set this place up like drip heaven. @@dripdepot
@@pennyarizzio2824 Awesome Penny, thank you (truly!) for watching :) You can reach out any time and I'll be happy to help -- we (or I) can be reached here in the comments, or on the Contact Us part of our website, and we do actually read and reply to every email we get, no bots except an auto reply when we're out of the office.
Can you use the same size far the main line and emitter line or drip line? Like 1/2 & 1/2 or does main line needs to be larger and the drip line needs to be smaller in size?
You sure can! I'd say 1/2" and 1/2" is very common in smaller to average sized gardens -- on really small systems, like just a few potted plants, we even see systems made of all 1/4" tubing. Basically so long as everything is within spec (not too much flow or length for the size of the line used) it's perfectly acceptable to use the same sized line for both main and drip line. More than acceptable even, as it saves some of the material costs which is always a good thing. :)
Hello, In the "main line" chapter, regarding the tubing size vs. lenght/GPH chart (200/200 rule), are you referring to internal or outside diameter? Thanks for sharing!
Very good question, there's actually a bit more going on there than we touched on, good catch. The diameter we're referring to there is the inside diameter -- to some degree, even that's misleading though as 1/2" tubing rarely has an actual 0.500" inside diameter. For example, our 1/2" tubing has a 0.600" inside diameter which will experience less friction loss than an actual 0.500" inside diameter. Even PVC has this issue, with 1/2" PVC having an average (it can vary a little depending on wall thickness) inside diameter of 0.622". Essentially, in the video we'll be referring to 0.600" inside diameter (with larger 1/2" sizes, such as 0.620", being able to go a little further and/or have a bit more flow going through) :)
@dripdepot Hey great video. I'm planning out my irrigation system for about ~150 vanilla vines/ fruit trees/ raised bedsI've got planted across my property and using this video as a guide. One concern I've had that was an issue for me in the past when I used soaker hoses, was that it seems like I didn't get even distribution of pressure along the hose. I'm going to be designing the system over the next couple weeks, and I've got several different zones planned (one for vines, one for beds, one for trees, one for a small patch of lawn). How should I be thinking about line pressure? The zone I really care about is for my vines, and while I haven't decided on either sprinklers or mist, its important to me that all emitters are flowing at pretty much exactly the same rate, and its going to be a particularly long run because most of my plants are planted along my fence-line. What steps can I take in the design phase to ensure I'll get good, consistent flow rates from my emitters for a given zone? Do I risk emitters at the end of a run emitting less than emitters at the origination of a run?
Very good question, and uniformity is one of the most important parts of irrigation, so you're on the right track in asking about it. The primary concern regarding pressure in your upcoming project is going to be in friction loss -- that is, pressure lost from friction between water and the wall of the tubing. Friction losses primary variables are: The material of the line (poly, PVC, etc), the diameter of the line, the overall length of the line and the flow going through it in GPH or GPM (which is the sum of the flow rate of all emitters operating at once). Basically, you want to minimize friction loss to a reasonable amount to ensure all emitters have enough pressure. I'm going to link a video at the end of this comment that goes into a bit more detail -- I try not to answer questions with videos, but the information is a bit much for a comment reply, the video will be able to provide better detail. Another factor to uniformity that's similar to pressure (and this is one where I most often see mistakes made) is the flow rate of the water source versus the flow rate of the system. You want the flow rate provided by the water source to exceed the flow demanded by the system. When the system flow exceeds the flow of the water source, some emitters are starved of water and uniformity goes out the window -- the symptoms of insufficient flow are very similar to those of insufficient pressure, so a lot of times someone will think they don't have enough pressure when in reality they don't have enough flow. As a quick example: Let's say you were using 10 sprinklers for your vines and each sprinkler put out 25 GPH. That would be a system flow (or system demand) of 250 GPH. If the water source only flowed at 200 GPH, some of those sprinklers would be starved of water. In the example above, that 250 GPH in system flow is also the same number you'd use to calculate friction loss, so you can account for both pressure and flow with that same system flow number. The solution for both problems (low PSI, too low of flow) is pretty easy in simply zoning the system into two or more zones, it's just best to account for it first so you can plan for it in the design phase -- much easier to start with knowing how many zones you need than try and add more later. Ok, I'm going to link two videos here -- this first one is about sizing a mainline. It covers friction loss in pretty good detail: ua-cam.com/video/f81BHQnXi0Y/v-deo.html This second video is how to test the flow rate of your water source. Are you going to be using a hose bib? If so, that's exactly what we're testing in this video (though you can use the same method for other water source types): ua-cam.com/video/tGxJaqQeg94/v-deo.html I know this is a lot of information, so please, don't hesitate to send over any follow-up questions that come up. I'm absolutely happy to answer any questions (and I think asking them is the right way to go, measure twice, cut once and all that). :)
Great info, I used to have sprinkle system and now converting them to drip system by using rain bird converter removing the sprinkler head and replace by converter head but I am not sure ,do I have to calculate everything too the same way you doing
Mostly so! You'd just treat the location you're converting as your water source instead of something like the hose bib we used in the video. You'll draw your mainline from the location you're converting and testing the flow rate of the water source at the location you're converting. Testing the flow rate of the water source is likely to be the most challenging part since it's at ground level, but if you're able to direct the flow into a bucket you should be able to get a good idea of its flow rate. Did the sprinkler operate well previously? If so, that's a good sign you have strong flow, though still best to confirm if possible. :)
You can, though it will take some planning in regards to pressure. The reason for this is, drip tape usually operates at 10 to 15 PSI depending on the thickness of the tape. 1/4" dripline works optimally at 25 PSI. When using both on the same zone, you'll want to regulate pressure for the tape. 1/4" dripline can operate at 10 to 15 PSI, it's just unlikely to put out the stated 0.5 GPH flow rate at that pressure, but will drip water making it possible to use both on the same zone.
I'm brand new to this and I have really been enjoying your videos! Sorry if this is an obvious question, but say I wanted to do 1/2" mainline but split it off into four separate lines, also using 1/2" tubing (like a pitchfork shape). Can each straight section of line be up to 200', or does the whole structure need to be under 200'? Thank you!
That's a very good question! Largely, each individual run is its own 200' length, so you can indeed go over 200' total, so long as no one individual run is over 200'. To some degree this would depend on the flow going through each 200' section (at higher flow rates I'd start wanting to check the math) but, in general, each individual length is treated as its own for the most part :)
OK, I'm going to stop buying my drip irrigation supplies from HD and go with you guys just to support your awesomeness! Question: In your example you show 3'x9' beds with two ~9' drip lines. What's the rule for the number of lines in a bed? In my case i have all 4x4 square foot garden style beds. From your example it seems I could go with three or four lines. Can you offer a rule of thumb?
Thank you for the kind words! Great question on the number of lines -- to some degree it is determined by the number of rows. A common approach is to run one line for each row of plants. For the most part that's what we did here, though some of those might not have been in an exact row (we installed this system for someone that had been hand watering beds, so the plants were all already in place). In a 3' to 4' wide bed, we'll usually do 3 lines (and there will often be 3 rows of plants in that size of bed). Are your 4' wide beds going to have 3 rows of plants? If so, you'd be served well by 3 lines, each one going right down its own row -- in common loamy garden soil, water spreads about 12" from the point of drip below the surface, so you might even get some overlap beneath the soil. A little bit of overlap, or "head to head coverage" can be beneficial as it means no matter where the roots go, they'll find moisture. If your soil is particularly sandy and/or you'll have a 4th row of plants, a 4th line could be called for, but I think in most cases 3 will work very well here. :)
Thank you so much for your videos. They are great and helped me design and install my own drip irrigation system in my garden of raised beds. The ordering and receiving process was smooth, and everything was pretty easy. I have encountered a problem that I’m hoping you can help me with. Occasionally a couple of the 1/4” goof plugs pop off the end of a couple of 1/4” drip lines when the system is running. It’s not all of the goof plugs just three out of 29, and when it happens I have a hard time getting them to stay on. Any suggestions?
Happy to help! And I can confirm the goof plugs should not pop out of the end. The first thing I check in these situations is pressure -- are you using a pressure regulator at the hose bib to maintain downstream pressure at around 25 PSI? If not, there's a good chance that's the culprit and you'd just need to throw a regulator at the hose bib -- they're inexpensive and small enough to fit into most head assemblies -- here's an example of one: www.dripdepot.com/three-quarter-inch-hose-thread-pressure-regulator-psi-25-psi If you do have a regulator, you can try removing the goof plug and then making a new cut just an inch or so in (but careful not to cut into an emitter if there's one right at the end of the line). If the tubing had become stretched for any reason at the end, a new cut will give you a fresh smaller hole to work with :) I hope one of these help! If not, I'll be happy to continue to assist and help you get up and running.
@@dripdepot Thank you. Cutting the tubing and giving it a fresh cut is what I did to help solve the issue. I do have a pressure regulator of 25 PSI. I've set-up my hose bib exactly as your design video taught me. I might have to order some more drip line bc I had to cut one of the lines pretty short since there was an emitter close to the end of a line that kept losing the goof plug. Thank you for your reply! I appreciate it!
@@runnermom44 Did re-doing the cuts end up working? If so, some of the ones you haven't re-cut yet may be able to be used -- when the tubing gets warm, it undergoes thermal expansion -- this thermal expansion will cause the tubing to expand and increase its grip on the goof plug (and 1/4" fittings in general). If it's warm enough where you're at, try placing it in direct sunlight for a bit and see if that takes care of it. If you end up needing to cut a lot of tubing, let me know so I can help with that extra roll of drip line :)
@@dripdepot Re-doing the cut did not work for all of three of them at first. I did have to re-cut two of them twice. Would you recommend shutting off the system when I do this? I did have the system running as I cut and replaced the goof plugs. Perhaps the tubing wasn't warm enough to expand due to the water running through the end?
@@runnermom44 You bet, I'd recommend doing it with the water off -- as you noted, this will help the thermal expansion, but it will also make seating the goof plug easier for you so you don't have to fight the water pressure as well :) If this happens again, take an image if you can and fire it off to me from our website, I can take a look and make sure nothing else is at play contributing.
Definitely a little daunting at first, but you'll love it! Drip irrigation ends up being crazy fun, after I installed my first system I started finding excuses to add more beds in various parts of the yard lol -Adam
@@dripdepot Okay, I did it, just purchased a Deluxe System from you with a few modifications, I added the bells and whistles, and should get it hopefully by the weekend for me to install, I have 4 large, 1 small raised bed and a larger 20x50 bed. wish me luck.
We'll get it packed up and headed your way today, you'll get an email from us with your tracking soon :) And you're going to have fun! You can also reach out to us with any questions that come up, we'll have someone here on Sunday that will be able to get back to you. We know lots of tips and tricks we can send over. The hardest part is when you first open the box and see a bunch of supplies, it can feel briefly overwhelming. Just start by organizing things and, before you know it, you've got an irrigation system. -Adam
I still don't know if I want 1/4 with built in emitters down the row of my bed or 1/2 with built in emitters, or 1/4 running to each random plant from the 1/2 tube.
Is it a raised bed? If so, how long is it? If it's 15' or less, the 1/4" line with built-in emitters will work great -- the 1/2" is very similar but isn't needed until bed length gets longer than 15' to 30'. It's not uncommon to use a little mix of line with built in emitters to get the plants in straight rows, and then some 1/4" tubing with a dripper in the end coming off 1/2" tubing to get to out of the way plants :) I'm probably a bit biased in favor of 1/4" drip line with pre-installed emitters, I use it extensively in my home garden, but that bias came from getting good results :D
Is there a reason you couldnt just create a loop with the drip line rather than running two separate lines? Saw a video where someone used drip line and T's to create circles around potted plants.
You sure can! We use the loop (or "drip rings") for trees, some shrubs, larger potted plants and some fruit bushes -- it's a great way to deliver water all around a container or larger plant/tree, and you've got it exactly right, a single Tee fitting is all that's needed. With raised beds we typically plant in straight rows, so going with a loop there usually only leads to using more material which can increase costs if it ends up requiring another spool of drip line.
We're glad you found it either way! You never know when you might have another drip project come up, or have the opportunity to assist with someone else's :)
@@dripdepot how do I get help for you guys? I just got my delivery a week ago. I order a few things from your company but I wanted to see if anybody can help me because I have too many different areas that need drip alligation.
We'd be happy to help! With something more in depth like this, the best way to contact us will be via email so we can include things like images. This link goes to our "Contact Us" which sends us an email to our support email: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- you can email us direct or use that link to send the email. We have a few experts whose primary duty is helping via email, so you'll get a reply from an actual person pretty quick during our office hours :) I'll also keep an eye out so I can assist the agent who receives the email (and look forward to it!).
This is a terrific explanation but I’m confused anyway :). If I’m purchasing the basic drip irrigation kit does it include the entire head assembly? The filter in the video looks very different than the filter in the kit.
You bet, all of our raised bed kits will come with the full head assembly :) Sometimes we have to swap filters in and out depending on what we have in stock, but they're all equally strong (around 150 mesh) that attach to the head assembly in the same place and same way. If you ever have any questions about what's in the kits, or how to install it after everything arrives, don't hesitate to reach out, happy to help with both sides!
Hi, thanks for the video. About the size of the main line, if I´m planning to have 2 zones working in parallel one of 116 ft and the other of 129ft plus 166ft of drip lines total for both (longer bed 10 ft). Should it be enough 1/2´´ for the main lines and 1/4´´ for the drip line? or should I use 3/4´´ for the main line considering I will have 2 zones? any suggestion?
From what you've described so far, it sounds like you could use 1/2" as your mainline, at least in regards to length if both of those lines will be operating independently of one another. The other thing to account for will be the flow rate going through the 1/2" lines -- you want the total flow going through each one to be less than 200 GPH -- with 166' of drip lines it sounds like you'll be under that 200 GPH mark, but i wanted to mention it just in case :)
@@stephaniefuente-albadoming7961 You're very welcome! If any last minute questions come up or installation questions when everything arrives, don't hesitate to shout out :)
Very good video. I have a question: My main water line is 3/4 inch which goes through a 30 PSI pressure reducer. I have connected four 1/2 inch hoses to this main line. The first hose is feeding 26 0.8 GPH emitter, second hose is feeding 16 0.8 GPH emitter, third hose is feeding 30 0.8 GPH emitter and fourth hose is feeding 18 0.8 GPH emitter. Total emitter in the system is about 90. Are emitters toward the end of hoses going to starve. I appreciate if you let me know. Thank you.
From what you've described, I think you're going to absolutely be good to go -- I'll explain below: You're well within the green in regards to the capacity for both your 3/4" and 1/2" tubing, unless the lines were very long (over 200' for 1/2" and close to 500' for the 3/4"). I suspect your lines aren't that long, so I don't think you'll be losing much pressure at all from friction. With pressure accounted for, the only thing that could starve them would be flow rate -- for example, if your water source flows at 50 GPH but the flow rate of the system (90 0.8 GPH emitters in this case) was 72 GPH, some would be starved of water. Happy to confirm that a water source with that low of a flow rate is very rare, so I imagine that you'll be good to go in regards to flow as well and will get good performance from your emitters :)
Three main questions. 1. I have a 75' lawn that I want to lay underground pipe to a back-of-property line that is 135'. There are 35-40 pieces of shrubbery. At the end of the 75" I will require a T. From this point do I continue to use 1/2" or do I reduce to 1/4". 2. Actually I think it may be the same question around the house. Do I use the 1/2" and then 1/4" for each plant? I do plan to have a timer. 3. Can I send you a detailed map and you suggest the correct plan or kit to buy?
We'll be happy to assist! 1. From the information I have, you'd likely be using 1/2" after the Tee, but then possibly using 1/4" coming off the 1/2" near the plants. 2. You got it! The most common approach is 1/2" and then 1/4" near the plant (1/4" can't run very far compared to 1/2"). 3. Kind of! Do reach out to us and send the map and any additional information in text and we'll absolutely help get you pointed in the right direction and help keep you on the right path. During office hours we reply to emails very quickly, so you won't have to wait a day for every single email. Our office hours are currently 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. PST Mon-Fri (they'll increase soon during Spring and early Summer). Just in case, here is the link to our Contact Us page to send us an email: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new
It's probably out of spec, but I find with a heavy vacuum I can easily exceed the capabilities of the Hendricks backflow preventer. As simple as 20-25PSI with 50 gallons of water volume will blow straight through the tube exceeding the backflow drainage. I was quite suprised to observe this. I do have a 2nd backflow preventer on my hose bib which actually works. But I was quite surprised by this behavior. Maybe someday I'll write the company and ask.
Interesting! And it likely is worth writing as backflow prevention is of preeminent importance in any irrigation system or any cross connection really. We all (public and those in the industry) tend to take it for granted a bit, just installing one and assuming it will work reliably in all situations. You're probably correct that it's out of spec a bit, at least depending on how quickly the 50 gallons was applied -- the better version of the backflow preventers we carry (J10 Vacuum Breaker) is rated for 720 GPH, after that I think you'd get something similar to your experience. If anything else, hopefully this comment will get those reading it to be mindful of their backflow prevention, thank you for bringing some attention to it :)
If connecting sprinkler heads to a timer, do you still need backflow preventer/filter/pressure regulator - or is that just necessary for drip irrigation?
A backflow preventer you'll definitely still want -- a filter, if you're using lawn sprinklers on municipal water, could go either way -- in most cases they wont' be needed since sprinklers have much larger orifices than drip emitters. If you did opt for a filter, you could use a much wider mesh. If it's a dirty water source, some filtration would be best, though still not as fine as with drip. A pressure regulator is not often used in lawn sprinklers -- a lot of modern sprinklers (Hunter Pro Spray, RainBird 1800) includes built in regulation in each unit, and traditional sprinkler rotors can operate at high pressure. If you have particularly high PSI, over 70 PSI, a regulator could benefit, but in most cases lawn sprinklers won't need one. Essentially: Backflow prevention for sure, filtration and pressure regulation can go either way, but in most cases are not used with lawn sprinklers :)
In ground bed or raised bed? One of the raised bed kits would be a great place to start either way -- if you have in-ground beds the only big change to the kit would be removing some of the elbows (elbows are used to get the mainline tubing up the wall of raised beds). If you have raised beds, it would just be a matter of customizing the kit to match things up (quantity of fittings, length of mainline, total length of drip line) to your system -- you're on the right video to help with that part as well, you can draw it up like we did here and count/add up what you need. We'd also be happy to help -- we can review your design and tallied up fittings and see if we spot any problems. Also happy to answer any questions that come up as you go through the process. We can assist here or from our Contact Us page here: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new :)
50 micron filtration is incredibly strong filtration -- if it's filtering the water at 50 micron before the irrigation system, you should be good to go, at least so long as there's nothing downstream of the filter that you wouldn't want in the irrigation system. The stronger drip irrigation filters filter at 100 to 80 micron, so at 50 you'll be getting very clean water, cleaner even than we we often see in drip systems (again, so long as there's nothing between the sediment filter and the irrigation system that could be picked up). :)
Hi Adam, quick question about the size of the mainline tubing. I will be running drip Irrigation lines from 2 separate hose bibs. One line would be 100 feet in length and the other is 110 feet in length. I checked the flow rate of both the hose vibs and it is 300 gph. Should i go for the 1/2 inch tubing or the 3/4 inch for mainline? I would like to add more flower beds in the future and would want to extend the drip line at both the hose bibs. Thank you.
The size of the mainline will usually be determined by the flow rate of the irrigation system -- this isn't necessarily the flow rate of the hose bib (though it's good to know that number as well). To determine the flow rate of the irrigation system/zone, just add up the flow rate of all the emitters that will be operating at once (e.g., 500 0.5 GPH drippers is 250 GPH irrigation system flow rate). If it's getting close to 200 GPH system flow, 3/4" would probably be the better bet, particularly since you'd like to expand on it later. When you determine the system flow rate, you can also compare it to the flow rate of your water hose bib. You don't want the system flow to exceed the hose bib flow -- a quick example, if you had 350 GPH system flow and 300 GPH from the hose bib, some emitters would be starved of water. In the industry, they'll typically leave a 20% cushion between system flow and water source flow, or 240 GPH in this case. The cushion helps ensure success without calculating every detail (small losses from some fittings, etc). If you have questions on any of this, just say the word, I'm back in the office for the week and happy to assist :)
If the incline isn't severe, not much will change -- gravity does increase pressure, but it takes quite a bit of elevation change to really impact anything. Water pressure is generated/lost at a rate of 0.433 PSI for every 1' of elevation change, so even a 5' inline is only a little over 2 PSI. Being 30' from the faucet, you'd want to use a 1/2" mainline -- 1/2" mainline is good for up to about 200', so you'd be well into the green. Basically, not too much would change for you and unless the incline is severe, you'd unlikely even notice a difference between a system on a flat field :)
Is it okay to attach 1/4 " distributer tubing to 1/2 " poly tubing via a 1/4" barbed coupling? or do I need to use the barbed coupling on emitter tubing only?
You bet, in fact, using a 1/4" coupling is the preferred way to connect 1/4" poly to 1/2" poly, so you're absolutely on the right track :) All you do is use a 1/4" punch to make a hole in the wall of the 1/2" poly, connect your 1/4" tubing to one side of the coupling and then push the other side into the punched hole. We made a short video that shows the above steps if you'd like to see the process in action: ua-cam.com/video/_dXByuYcgtM/v-deo.html
When you say 200’ is the maximum run length, is that the max length of any single row, or the total length of the system? For example, could I run 100 feet of 1/2” mainline from my water source then connect it to 200’ of 1/2” drip tubing (5 rows each 40’ long)? Would that still work, or is that now a “run length” of 300’?
You bet, in regards to line length, what you described would still be within specification -- that limitation applies to a single length, so it is ok to have multiple individual lengths whose sum is greater than 200' so long as no one run is over 200'. :)
Please can you help me with the design of the irrigation system for my vegetable farm. One is 80 m x 48 m and the second one is 10 m x 64 m greenhouse. We intend to plant in grow bags.
Thank you for reaching out! You bet, we'd be happy to offer guidance. If you can, contact us here at our contact us link -- that link sends us an email and during our office hours we'll get back to you promptly. Our office hours are currently 7 am to 3 pm PST Mon-Fri. Here is that link: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new
My mainline is 176.5ft on one side of the garden, we plan on adding more in the future so we’re planning on a 3/4 inch mainline. Should our emitter line/drip tape be 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch? Also, on the other half of the garden we have rows of crops. The rows are about 28 feet. Is it okay if we use the drip tape for that? Or does that need to be mainline too? Sorry if you’ve addressed this in other videos, I am struggling to get all of this figured out still😅
@@Katherineroberts33 Great questions Katherine, and you're welcome to reach out with questions at any time :) First, good call on going with the 3/4" if it's 176.5' and you plan to expand in the future -- going 3/4" now will help future proof everything. How long are your rows going to be coming off that mainline? 1/4" drip line is good for about 20' to 30' depending on your (6" or 12") emitter spacing. After that, better to go with 1/2" drip line or drip tape. You don't have to add your drip tape or drip line lengths into your total mainline length, each individual run will count for its own individual run -- so, for example, if you have five 20' runs of 1/4" drip line, even though that totals 100', each individual one is within the recommended maximum. One thing to account for with your total tape or drip line (or even a mix) is the flow rate of the system versus the flow rate of the water source. The flow rate of the system is the sum of all emitters operating at once -- for example, if you were using 500' of drip tape with a 0.5 GPH emitter spaced every 12", you'd have a system flow rate of 250 GPH. You want to compare that number to the flow rate provided by the water source to make sure there's enough flow to feed all the emitters. If you haven't yet, you can test the flow rate of your water source with just a timer and a bucket -- time how long it takes to fill the bucket with water, and then plug the numbers into the Flow Rate Calculator at this link: www.dripdepot.com/irrigation-calculators If the flow rate of the system (adding up all the emitters) exceeds the flow provided by the source, not to worry, the solution is pretty easy -- usually it just means going with a second zone by using either a hose bib splitter or a 2 outlet timer so you can have two individual systems that run at different times (and I can help with that if it ends up being the case) :)
Outside of anything digital, the easiest (and least expensive) would probably be large format drafting paper -- there's large graph/drafting paper out there that can be as large as 24” x 36” or even 36” x 48” that would allow you to create a reasonable scale to work with :) You could break it up into smaller chunks on separate pieces of graphing paper and tape them together afterwards, essentially creating your own large format drafting paper. There's always digital options/apps, but most of the free ones are focused on lawn irrigation (if you're irrigating a pasture or a large lawn they'd be worth looking into) or are cost prohibitive at the moment. Definitely more of a challenge when you start getting into larger sizes, happy to help with any questions!
You bet! While we cannot fully design a system remotely, we can absolutely help with yours. If it's not too complex, we can probably tell at a glance :) If you have a sketch with measurements, that would be best (or measurements as an overlay over the photo). A lot of what goes into these is determining how much tubing is needed to get water everywhere it needs to get to. You can get our email address at this link: help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000049095-how-to-contact-drip-depot
Close! For 6" spaced line, you'd multiply the total liner feet by 1 (since there's an emitter every 6", there's 2 per foot). If you use 12" spacing, you can multiply its length by 0.5 (one 0.5 GPH emitter every foot). :)
Hello, Can i make my mainline the same diameter as the dripline If it has a sufficient flowrate coming out of it to meet the l/h needs of the dripline and if my dripline doesn't exceed the maximum length you've put up on the grid ( is that because too much length would lose pressure and drippers wouldnt work?) or am I missing something. Also instead of putting end plugs, I have seen alot of examples where people connect the ends of the driplines with each other via a perpendicular line to form a sort of grid. I understand this makes it so water can come from elsewhere incase there's a blockage but is there any other advantage to doing this. Im trying to understand and save money on fittings as you can tell, especially for my mainline which is 1"
You can make your main the same diameter as the dripline so long as you account for the physics -- you do have it exactly right, smaller diameters experience more friction loss than larger diameters, so you could end up losing a lot of pressure if it's not sized correctly. With that said, that doesn't mean bigger is always better, as you noted, costs are something to take into account, and if your flow doesn't call for a larger diameter and you don't plan to expand on it, there's no need to spend more on a larger diameter. You've also got it right on the "grid" or "loop" -- its primary benefit is so that water can come from any direction in the event of a clog. In larger systems, there's also pressure benefits, but that's not really seen in smaller systems. In smaller systems I prefer to go with end caps -- end caps also have the benefit of allowing you to flush your lines (which in turn, greatly reduces clogging). Basically, you're on the right track with all your thoughts there :)
Why didn’t you just run 20’ from the spigot (instead of 18’) to the beds and then the 27’ run could have fed each bed with a tee joint at each bed. Less cuts and couplers that way. I am planning my raised bed garden and that’s why I ask.
I'm probably misunderstanding (and if I am, definitely let me know!), but the reason we went 18' and then Tee'd off is so that each bed could have its own individual on/off. Here is an image that shows the design we were going for -- the coupling valves in this design are in a slightly different place, but achieve the same thing (third picture down): help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000119078-raised-bed-sample-layouts
Ah, good catch! I think it was from knowing in advance that I'd be rounding up to the 100' since the 50' would be too short (we shot the design video after we installed the actual system). Thank you for catching that by the way! We'll be able to fix this one without re-uploading the video, so truly and much appreciated.
Is that the results you got from the timer and bucket test? If so, that is indeed a very healthy flow rate! There will be some small losses from fittings, head assembly parts, etc -- a lot of designers like to subtract 20% to account for all of those so they don't have to calculate each one individually -- this leaves enough cushion to generally "ensure success" :)
Probably quite a few, but I think I'd jump to the front of the queue myself on this one! In all seriousness, I'm also happy to help from here, any questions you have, don't hesitate to fire off this way, in the comments or through our contact us on our website. We do have actual people who help via email all day and are trained in drip irrigation. I'm always available to them for any questions that go above their knowledge base too :) Wishing you a beautiful morning out there in Honolulu!
You can slow down the speed of the video by clicking on the little "gear" in the lower right-hand corner and then set it at .75. This slower speed helps me when the person in the video talks fast. :)
We really appreciate you taking the time to point out this issue. We are working on a solution to make navigating the website easier. If you need any help finding something in particular, we're happy to help provide personal assistance to find the right parts available in chat on our website or email support@dripdepot.com.
@@dripdepot the delivery arrived today. Please, please stop using fedex. They don't care about your product. Today's jackass driver, instead of walking up the path and putting the box on the porch, reaches over and balances the box on the edge of a raised bed on the far side of the yard. Caused me to break a pot trying to get out there before it fell off of the raised bed into the yard. They have literally chunked stuff over the fence into the yard and have the gall to take a picture of it.
Ugh, I too hate delivers that go like this. In all seriousness, we used to use UPS and experienced the same problem (that really got noticeable when they took on Amazon deliveries). There will be discussion about it again this year, I'll absolutely submit this feedback -- we collect a lot of it during the season. Perhaps surprisingly, we experience the fewest issues with USPS, now if we could just get them to do large/heavy packages for a lower rate.
@@dripdepot thanks for your reply. I think service is not consistent nation wide for any given delivery company. It's all down to who works at those facilities. In one city, Fedex might be giving better service than UPS and another city USPS might be better. In my city, USPS is probably the better one, although UPS is not too bad. Maybe it would be better to give customers the option of who they prefer to make the delivery and what each price is at checkout.
I'm planning my drip irrigation setup for an indoor 5x5 tent and trying to figure out what the best setup would be. I have 3 rows of 3 plants and i've heard some people say that I should be looping the mainline to equalize pressure, but most schematics I see just have the lines come to an end with an end cap. What are your thoughts on running closed loop? Thank you! Edit: I'll be using 9" halo emitters for each 5 gallon pot.
Great question on the loop, we see landscapers who are new to drip frequently doing closed loops. With smaller and/or lower pressure systems, it doesn't really offer a benefit. In fact, it often just ends up translating to higher material costs to get enough tubing to close the loop. There is a benefit in larger and/or higher pressure systems, but for drip it has to be a pretty large system to really benefit. :) From what you've described, you'll be more than good to go with standard layout (assuming there's enough pressure to begin with of course, but there likely is) :)
Ordered a bunch of stuff from drip depot for a 1500sq foot garden. It came pretty fast and was nicely packaged. What won me over though was a couple of tootsie pops placed in a bag with the paper work. Me and my daughter sat on the floor and ate the Tootsie pops while we did the inventory on our new system. Nice touch drip depot. Also all these UA-cam videos are awesome to reference. You can tell the difference between a company that just wants to sell you something and one that wants you to be happy. Will be ordering from you in the future.
Thank you truly for the kind words! Glad you liked the tootsie pops, I probably eat a few too many of the chocolate ones myself since we have boxes of them :)
no lie this is the best you tube video in existence. This guy needs a huge raise!
Heather, as agreed your check is in the mail for the comment ;)
All kidding aside, this is one of the first things I walked into Monday morning, so a huge thank you! This set the perfect tone for not just the day, but the week. And I'm printing it out and hanging it in my office.
If any questions come up during your install, send them my way (seriously!) I'll be happy to assist :)
Just discovered these guys. I'm sold. UA-cam channel is off the charts in terms of clarity and thoroughness. Will be ordering soon...
I was just wrapping things up for the evening down here when this came in... Man, thank you for sending me hope in an absolutely great mood, I truly appreciate it!
By far the BEST guide I've seen for anything ever. I don't consider myself handy, but it seems that it was just due to mediocre/poor explanations in the past! This makes the set up seem so simple. Thank you so much for this; I almost gave up on drip irrigation!
Thank you for the kind words! What a great way to start Friday morning over here :)
If any questions come up while you plan and install your system, don't hesitate for a second to reach out, I'll be happy to assist!
These videos make me feel like I can absolutely do this. I can’t wait to make a blueprint and order some kits from you guys - thank you so much for the incredibly clear explanations!
Thank you Elizabeth! That was our entire goal with this video series, to make drip irrigation easier for everyone. This comment means a lot.
We're here to help after everything arrives as well -- you can reach out there or on our website with any and all questions and we'll get back to you (usually within minutes during office hours) :)
You deserve a big thumbs-up!👍 your explanation is crystal clear, no better one is needed.
Ann, thank you for the kind words! Straight forward and understandable was what I was hoping for on that one -- your comment here is the absolute best way to head into the weekend, thank you truly :)
Exactly my thoughts! got my 👍
Wow. This is the best explanation I have seen. It all finally makes sense. Thank you for the video!
Yulia, thank you for the feedback, truly! That's exactly what we hoped when built this one, we wanted it to "click" for everyone -- once it clicks, it starts getting easier :)
Thank you sincerely!
You are out here SAVING LIVES. 😪😘 I only have three,3 ft tall beds at present but I'm going to go with your list because...why reinvent the wheel...plus I will get more beds.
I had a quick look at your channel, and I think you're the one out saving lives (and thank you for that)! I'm absolutely glad I could help with your garden and raised beds though =D
If any questions come up while you plan out your system, don't hesitate to drop a line 😀
That was an absolutely awesome tutorial. Thanks 😊👍🏽
You're very welcome, thank you for the shout out!
This is the best video I have found that explains how to irrigate without making it complicated. Thank you for making this video!
Grace, this is one of the first things I looked at this Monday -- thank you! What a way to start the week, you rock :)
Drip Depot Rocks!
Thank you George! I musta say, George L rocks as well! =D
Your videos have been extremely helpful while I've been installing my drip irrigation system! Planning is the key to getting it right. I messed that up a few times because I couldn't figure out which zones I needed to be able to water by themselves, but we're on track now, and I think I finally have everything I need to complete the job.
Thank you for the kind words Cathy! You're in good company, we mess up the planning stage ourselves from time to time. The very first video project I did (gravity system) I had to go back the next day with the parts I'd missed on the first day lol :)
SOLD! Great salesmanship brother! Im blueprinting and measuring out what I need will make a purchase soon. Thanks!
Thank you for the kind words! If any questions come up along the way, we'll be happy to assist :)
@@dripdepot Thanks, I'm wondering if I should use drip line or drip tape or both for my garden. I will have 20 rows of corn, 5 tomato plants, a 6ish ft long trellis wall for cucumbers, a 50ft long trellis wall for green pole beans, 4 squash mounds and 6 pepper and herb plants.
The description of your garden is making me hungry, must be close to lunch!
How long are your rows going to be? You could allow that to guide your decision -- 1/4" drip line is good for up to about 30' (with 12" spacing, less with 6"), drip tape is good for very long rows (hundreds of feet in some cases). If the rows are closer to your trellis length (50'), drip tape would be the better solution for sure. If the rows vary and you have some short and some long, it is possible to use both on the same system, you'd just want to make sure they have similar flow rates (or plan accordingly for some plants needing less water, some more).
And now to satisfy this craving for some fresh vegetables lol
@@dripdepot Lol Thanks! its going to be a great garden I hope. My corn rows will be approximately about 40 ft long and I have my 5 staked tomatoes in a row with the cucumber trellis which is also approximately 40 ft long. Do you think I could get away with only using drip lines, or should I use drip tape for the 40 ft rows and 50ft trellis wall? Thanks soo much for the help. I'm making my cart as we speak.
That's awesome you're growing corn! I lost mine to the raccoons both times I've tried, grr. Maybe this will be the year haha.
I think with 40' to 50' you can safely eliminate 1/4" drip line and can focus on 1/2" drip line or 5/8" drip tape. The two are very similar, the biggest difference is in cost (tape costs less), durability (1/2" drip line is more durable), and flexibility -- 1/2" dripline can wind a little bit, drip tape has to be in perfectly straight rows (not a problem if you're planted in straight rows of course) :)
Excellent video, actively planning drip irrigation for my 70+ Arboviratite plants/trees
Thank you! If any questions come up, don't hesitate to reach out, happy to help :)
I literally way over bought fittings and plan on returning the extras post install. This makes way more sense 🤣
Having some extra fittings during the install can be handy, there's always that doesn't go according to plan. And definitely send back the unused ones, we'll get you refunded, no restocking fees :)
Great presentation! I no longer feel frustrated! Thank you for making things clear!
You're very welcome, thank you for the great comment as well!
Thanks for the awesome video. I am currently studying agricultural engineering and this tutorial is very informative for projects.
Thank you for the kind words! If any questions ever come up that we may be able to help with, don't hesitate to reach out. :)
Great explanation! I definitely am more confident going into my project now.
That's great news! And confidence is definitely a big part of it, that's actually one of our goals with these videos: helping folks gain the confidence to dive on in. :)
Another hit Andy! Quick question... Can you also loop the 1/4" runs instead of dead ending them? Would loops be any more or less efficient?
You can indeed loop the ends! On raised beds I don't think it would improve efficiency any, but it also wouldn't hurt it -- we do like to loop the ends when we're doing bigger plants like trees or shrubs though :)
We connect both sides of the drip line to a 1/4" tee to make a ring out of it -- that gets emitters to all sides of the plant's root zone, which in turn encourages even root growth.
@dripdepot Thank you!
@@SouthCarolinaTransPlant Any time! =D
Excellent video.Lot to learn
Hi, currently in Irrigation lessons in class, thanks for the vulgarisation, i understand that stuff better now!
You're very welcome, I hope you do great in class and you're welcome to ask questions any time!
much thanks super step by step help.. ive wanted to use in my vegy garden for years..just never got all the steps together thanks for your video!!
You're very welcome! If any questions come up, please don't hesitate to reach out :)
Thank you for this! Guys at the store didn't want to help, so you're getting my purchase.
If any questions come up, let us know, we'll absolutely be happy to assist. We've seen that attitude in retail irrigation stores before as well, very strange!
Wow this made things way easier for me. Thank you so much.
You bet, thank you for your comment as well!
Thank you for making these videos. They have been so helpful.
You're very welcome, thank you as well for watching!
Brilliant, simply explained and engaging thank you.
Ty ty ty! I was trying to figure out if i needed the pressure regulator and backflow preventer before or after the timer🤔
You're very welcome Tara!
😊😊😊What a great video!! Have my cart going! I can't find the hose adapter on your website "AS PICTURED" in the video at time 7:09 can you send a link to this exact one. Thanks for the greatest video ever!!! Also my hose spiket is so low to the ground.. what can I use to bring it sideways..?
Thank you too Penny! Thank you for the best comment ever (truly!)
The exact hose adapter I used in the video is this one here: www.dripdepot.com/perma-loc-tubing-by-fhts-elbow-adapter-thread-size-three-quarter-inch-fht-perma-loc-size-half-inch
That one is also a good one for situations in which the spicket is low to the ground, so you're definitely on the right track!
Penny, I don't normally answer questions with a video link, but we actually made a video that's perfect for your question -- the video covers multiple ways to setup head assemblies on spickets that are low to the ground (maybe the second greatest video ever? 😄). Here is the link to that one: ua-cam.com/video/rMTwhC-nSOc/v-deo.html
If any questions come up, don't hesitate for a second to reach out, I'll be happy to help :)
Thank you again Penny, loved your comment!
Thank you for taking the time out to answer. I have been binge watching all your videos! They are so dang good!!!!
I am going to set this place up like drip heaven. @@dripdepot
@@pennyarizzio2824 Awesome Penny, thank you (truly!) for watching :)
You can reach out any time and I'll be happy to help -- we (or I) can be reached here in the comments, or on the Contact Us part of our website, and we do actually read and reply to every email we get, no bots except an auto reply when we're out of the office.
Can you use the same size far the main line and emitter line or drip line? Like 1/2 & 1/2 or does main line needs to be larger and the drip line needs to be smaller in size?
You sure can!
I'd say 1/2" and 1/2" is very common in smaller to average sized gardens -- on really small systems, like just a few potted plants, we even see systems made of all 1/4" tubing. Basically so long as everything is within spec (not too much flow or length for the size of the line used) it's perfectly acceptable to use the same sized line for both main and drip line. More than acceptable even, as it saves some of the material costs which is always a good thing. :)
Love love this
Thank you so much Jo! :)
Thank you for laying out this map
You're very welcome Matt!
It can’t be more clear. 🎉
Thank you for the feedback, clarity was exactly what I was going for on this one!
Hello,
In the "main line" chapter, regarding the tubing size vs. lenght/GPH chart (200/200 rule), are you referring to internal or outside diameter?
Thanks for sharing!
Very good question, there's actually a bit more going on there than we touched on, good catch. The diameter we're referring to there is the inside diameter -- to some degree, even that's misleading though as 1/2" tubing rarely has an actual 0.500" inside diameter. For example, our 1/2" tubing has a 0.600" inside diameter which will experience less friction loss than an actual 0.500" inside diameter.
Even PVC has this issue, with 1/2" PVC having an average (it can vary a little depending on wall thickness) inside diameter of 0.622".
Essentially, in the video we'll be referring to 0.600" inside diameter (with larger 1/2" sizes, such as 0.620", being able to go a little further and/or have a bit more flow going through) :)
Love it
Thank you for the kind words! We hoped to get it in time for the planning season, managed to on the first day of Spring :)
Happy Gardening!
THANK YOU
Any time! :)
@dripdepot Hey great video. I'm planning out my irrigation system for about ~150 vanilla vines/ fruit trees/ raised bedsI've got planted across my property and using this video as a guide. One concern I've had that was an issue for me in the past when I used soaker hoses, was that it seems like I didn't get even distribution of pressure along the hose. I'm going to be designing the system over the next couple weeks, and I've got several different zones planned (one for vines, one for beds, one for trees, one for a small patch of lawn).
How should I be thinking about line pressure? The zone I really care about is for my vines, and while I haven't decided on either sprinklers or mist, its important to me that all emitters are flowing at pretty much exactly the same rate, and its going to be a particularly long run because most of my plants are planted along my fence-line. What steps can I take in the design phase to ensure I'll get good, consistent flow rates from my emitters for a given zone? Do I risk emitters at the end of a run emitting less than emitters at the origination of a run?
Very good question, and uniformity is one of the most important parts of irrigation, so you're on the right track in asking about it.
The primary concern regarding pressure in your upcoming project is going to be in friction loss -- that is, pressure lost from friction between water and the wall of the tubing. Friction losses primary variables are: The material of the line (poly, PVC, etc), the diameter of the line, the overall length of the line and the flow going through it in GPH or GPM (which is the sum of the flow rate of all emitters operating at once). Basically, you want to minimize friction loss to a reasonable amount to ensure all emitters have enough pressure.
I'm going to link a video at the end of this comment that goes into a bit more detail -- I try not to answer questions with videos, but the information is a bit much for a comment reply, the video will be able to provide better detail.
Another factor to uniformity that's similar to pressure (and this is one where I most often see mistakes made) is the flow rate of the water source versus the flow rate of the system. You want the flow rate provided by the water source to exceed the flow demanded by the system. When the system flow exceeds the flow of the water source, some emitters are starved of water and uniformity goes out the window -- the symptoms of insufficient flow are very similar to those of insufficient pressure, so a lot of times someone will think they don't have enough pressure when in reality they don't have enough flow.
As a quick example: Let's say you were using 10 sprinklers for your vines and each sprinkler put out 25 GPH. That would be a system flow (or system demand) of 250 GPH. If the water source only flowed at 200 GPH, some of those sprinklers would be starved of water.
In the example above, that 250 GPH in system flow is also the same number you'd use to calculate friction loss, so you can account for both pressure and flow with that same system flow number.
The solution for both problems (low PSI, too low of flow) is pretty easy in simply zoning the system into two or more zones, it's just best to account for it first so you can plan for it in the design phase -- much easier to start with knowing how many zones you need than try and add more later.
Ok, I'm going to link two videos here -- this first one is about sizing a mainline. It covers friction loss in pretty good detail: ua-cam.com/video/f81BHQnXi0Y/v-deo.html
This second video is how to test the flow rate of your water source. Are you going to be using a hose bib? If so, that's exactly what we're testing in this video (though you can use the same method for other water source types): ua-cam.com/video/tGxJaqQeg94/v-deo.html
I know this is a lot of information, so please, don't hesitate to send over any follow-up questions that come up. I'm absolutely happy to answer any questions (and I think asking them is the right way to go, measure twice, cut once and all that). :)
Great info, I used to have sprinkle system and now converting them to drip system by using rain bird converter removing the sprinkler head and replace by converter head but I am not sure ,do I have to calculate everything too the same way you doing
Mostly so! You'd just treat the location you're converting as your water source instead of something like the hose bib we used in the video. You'll draw your mainline from the location you're converting and testing the flow rate of the water source at the location you're converting.
Testing the flow rate of the water source is likely to be the most challenging part since it's at ground level, but if you're able to direct the flow into a bucket you should be able to get a good idea of its flow rate. Did the sprinkler operate well previously? If so, that's a good sign you have strong flow, though still best to confirm if possible. :)
Thanks for sharing
Can you mix drip tape and dripline in a small system like this?
You can, though it will take some planning in regards to pressure. The reason for this is, drip tape usually operates at 10 to 15 PSI depending on the thickness of the tape. 1/4" dripline works optimally at 25 PSI. When using both on the same zone, you'll want to regulate pressure for the tape. 1/4" dripline can operate at 10 to 15 PSI, it's just unlikely to put out the stated 0.5 GPH flow rate at that pressure, but will drip water making it possible to use both on the same zone.
I'm brand new to this and I have really been enjoying your videos! Sorry if this is an obvious question, but say I wanted to do 1/2" mainline but split it off into four separate lines, also using 1/2" tubing (like a pitchfork shape). Can each straight section of line be up to 200', or does the whole structure need to be under 200'? Thank you!
That's a very good question! Largely, each individual run is its own 200' length, so you can indeed go over 200' total, so long as no one individual run is over 200'.
To some degree this would depend on the flow going through each 200' section (at higher flow rates I'd start wanting to check the math) but, in general, each individual length is treated as its own for the most part :)
Thank you so much!
OK, I'm going to stop buying my drip irrigation supplies from HD and go with you guys just to support your awesomeness!
Question: In your example you show 3'x9' beds with two ~9' drip lines. What's the rule for the number of lines in a bed? In my case i have all 4x4 square foot garden style beds. From your example it seems I could go with three or four lines. Can you offer a rule of thumb?
Thank you for the kind words!
Great question on the number of lines -- to some degree it is determined by the number of rows. A common approach is to run one line for each row of plants. For the most part that's what we did here, though some of those might not have been in an exact row (we installed this system for someone that had been hand watering beds, so the plants were all already in place).
In a 3' to 4' wide bed, we'll usually do 3 lines (and there will often be 3 rows of plants in that size of bed). Are your 4' wide beds going to have 3 rows of plants? If so, you'd be served well by 3 lines, each one going right down its own row -- in common loamy garden soil, water spreads about 12" from the point of drip below the surface, so you might even get some overlap beneath the soil. A little bit of overlap, or "head to head coverage" can be beneficial as it means no matter where the roots go, they'll find moisture.
If your soil is particularly sandy and/or you'll have a 4th row of plants, a 4th line could be called for, but I think in most cases 3 will work very well here. :)
Thank you so much for your videos. They are great and helped me design and install my own drip irrigation system in my garden of raised beds. The ordering and receiving process was smooth, and everything was pretty easy. I have encountered a problem that I’m hoping you can help me with. Occasionally a couple of the 1/4” goof plugs pop off the end of a couple of 1/4” drip lines when the system is running. It’s not all of the goof plugs just three out of 29, and when it happens I have a hard time getting them to stay on. Any suggestions?
Happy to help! And I can confirm the goof plugs should not pop out of the end.
The first thing I check in these situations is pressure -- are you using a pressure regulator at the hose bib to maintain downstream pressure at around 25 PSI? If not, there's a good chance that's the culprit and you'd just need to throw a regulator at the hose bib -- they're inexpensive and small enough to fit into most head assemblies -- here's an example of one: www.dripdepot.com/three-quarter-inch-hose-thread-pressure-regulator-psi-25-psi
If you do have a regulator, you can try removing the goof plug and then making a new cut just an inch or so in (but careful not to cut into an emitter if there's one right at the end of the line). If the tubing had become stretched for any reason at the end, a new cut will give you a fresh smaller hole to work with :)
I hope one of these help! If not, I'll be happy to continue to assist and help you get up and running.
@@dripdepot Thank you. Cutting the tubing and giving it a fresh cut is what I did to help solve the issue. I do have a pressure regulator of 25 PSI. I've set-up my hose bib exactly as your design video taught me. I might have to order some more drip line bc I had to cut one of the lines pretty short since there was an emitter close to the end of a line that kept losing the goof plug. Thank you for your reply! I appreciate it!
@@runnermom44 Did re-doing the cuts end up working? If so, some of the ones you haven't re-cut yet may be able to be used -- when the tubing gets warm, it undergoes thermal expansion -- this thermal expansion will cause the tubing to expand and increase its grip on the goof plug (and 1/4" fittings in general). If it's warm enough where you're at, try placing it in direct sunlight for a bit and see if that takes care of it.
If you end up needing to cut a lot of tubing, let me know so I can help with that extra roll of drip line :)
@@dripdepot Re-doing the cut did not work for all of three of them at first. I did have to re-cut two of them twice. Would you recommend shutting off the system when I do this? I did have the system running as I cut and replaced the goof plugs. Perhaps the tubing wasn't warm enough to expand due to the water running through the end?
@@runnermom44 You bet, I'd recommend doing it with the water off -- as you noted, this will help the thermal expansion, but it will also make seating the goof plug easier for you so you don't have to fight the water pressure as well :)
If this happens again, take an image if you can and fire it off to me from our website, I can take a look and make sure nothing else is at play contributing.
Oh great, now I have no excuses, Thx.
Definitely a little daunting at first, but you'll love it! Drip irrigation ends up being crazy fun, after I installed my first system I started finding excuses to add more beds in various parts of the yard lol -Adam
@@dripdepot Okay, I did it, just purchased a Deluxe System from you with a few modifications, I added the bells and whistles, and should get it hopefully by the weekend for me to install, I have 4 large, 1 small raised bed and a larger 20x50 bed. wish me luck.
We'll get it packed up and headed your way today, you'll get an email from us with your tracking soon :)
And you're going to have fun! You can also reach out to us with any questions that come up, we'll have someone here on Sunday that will be able to get back to you. We know lots of tips and tricks we can send over. The hardest part is when you first open the box and see a bunch of supplies, it can feel briefly overwhelming. Just start by organizing things and, before you know it, you've got an irrigation system. -Adam
I still don't know if I want 1/4 with built in emitters down the row of my bed or 1/2 with built in emitters, or 1/4 running to each random plant from the 1/2 tube.
Is it a raised bed? If so, how long is it? If it's 15' or less, the 1/4" line with built-in emitters will work great -- the 1/2" is very similar but isn't needed until bed length gets longer than 15' to 30'.
It's not uncommon to use a little mix of line with built in emitters to get the plants in straight rows, and then some 1/4" tubing with a dripper in the end coming off 1/2" tubing to get to out of the way plants :)
I'm probably a bit biased in favor of 1/4" drip line with pre-installed emitters, I use it extensively in my home garden, but that bias came from getting good results :D
Is there a reason you couldnt just create a loop with the drip line rather than running two separate lines? Saw a video where someone used drip line and T's to create circles around potted plants.
You sure can! We use the loop (or "drip rings") for trees, some shrubs, larger potted plants and some fruit bushes -- it's a great way to deliver water all around a container or larger plant/tree, and you've got it exactly right, a single Tee fitting is all that's needed.
With raised beds we typically plant in straight rows, so going with a loop there usually only leads to using more material which can increase costs if it ends up requiring another spool of drip line.
I wish i would find this video sooner. I think the guess at work out of it.
We're glad you found it either way! You never know when you might have another drip project come up, or have the opportunity to assist with someone else's :)
@@dripdepot how do I get help for you guys? I just got my delivery a week ago. I order a few things from your company but I wanted to see if anybody can help me because I have too many different areas that need drip alligation.
We'd be happy to help! With something more in depth like this, the best way to contact us will be via email so we can include things like images. This link goes to our "Contact Us" which sends us an email to our support email: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- you can email us direct or use that link to send the email.
We have a few experts whose primary duty is helping via email, so you'll get a reply from an actual person pretty quick during our office hours :) I'll also keep an eye out so I can assist the agent who receives the email (and look forward to it!).
This is a terrific explanation but I’m confused anyway :). If I’m purchasing the basic drip irrigation kit does it include the entire head assembly? The filter in the video looks very different than the filter in the kit.
You bet, all of our raised bed kits will come with the full head assembly :)
Sometimes we have to swap filters in and out depending on what we have in stock, but they're all equally strong (around 150 mesh) that attach to the head assembly in the same place and same way.
If you ever have any questions about what's in the kits, or how to install it after everything arrives, don't hesitate to reach out, happy to help with both sides!
Hi, thanks for the video. About the size of the main line, if I´m planning to have 2 zones working in parallel one of 116 ft and the other of 129ft plus 166ft of drip lines total for both (longer bed 10 ft). Should it be enough 1/2´´ for the main lines and 1/4´´ for the drip line? or should I use 3/4´´ for the main line considering I will have 2 zones? any suggestion?
From what you've described so far, it sounds like you could use 1/2" as your mainline, at least in regards to length if both of those lines will be operating independently of one another.
The other thing to account for will be the flow rate going through the 1/2" lines -- you want the total flow going through each one to be less than 200 GPH -- with 166' of drip lines it sounds like you'll be under that 200 GPH mark, but i wanted to mention it just in case :)
Thanks for answering 😊 I’m ready to buy everything
@@stephaniefuente-albadoming7961 You're very welcome! If any last minute questions come up or installation questions when everything arrives, don't hesitate to shout out :)
Very good video. I have a question:
My main water line is 3/4 inch which goes through a 30 PSI pressure reducer. I have connected four 1/2 inch hoses to this main line. The first hose is feeding 26 0.8 GPH emitter, second hose is feeding 16 0.8 GPH emitter, third hose is feeding 30 0.8 GPH emitter and fourth hose is feeding 18 0.8 GPH emitter. Total emitter in the system is about 90. Are emitters toward the end of hoses going to starve. I appreciate if you let me know. Thank you.
From what you've described, I think you're going to absolutely be good to go -- I'll explain below:
You're well within the green in regards to the capacity for both your 3/4" and 1/2" tubing, unless the lines were very long (over 200' for 1/2" and close to 500' for the 3/4"). I suspect your lines aren't that long, so I don't think you'll be losing much pressure at all from friction.
With pressure accounted for, the only thing that could starve them would be flow rate -- for example, if your water source flows at 50 GPH but the flow rate of the system (90 0.8 GPH emitters in this case) was 72 GPH, some would be starved of water.
Happy to confirm that a water source with that low of a flow rate is very rare, so I imagine that you'll be good to go in regards to flow as well and will get good performance from your emitters :)
Thank you very much. I feel much better now. I really appreciate it.
Thanks again.
Three main questions. 1. I have a 75' lawn that I want to lay underground pipe to a back-of-property line that is 135'. There are 35-40 pieces of shrubbery. At the end of the 75" I will require a T. From this point do I continue to use 1/2" or do I reduce to 1/4".
2. Actually I think it may be the same question around the house. Do I use the 1/2" and then 1/4" for each plant? I do plan to have a timer.
3. Can I send you a detailed map and you suggest the correct plan or kit to buy?
We'll be happy to assist!
1. From the information I have, you'd likely be using 1/2" after the Tee, but then possibly using 1/4" coming off the 1/2" near the plants.
2. You got it! The most common approach is 1/2" and then 1/4" near the plant (1/4" can't run very far compared to 1/2").
3. Kind of! Do reach out to us and send the map and any additional information in text and we'll absolutely help get you pointed in the right direction and help keep you on the right path.
During office hours we reply to emails very quickly, so you won't have to wait a day for every single email. Our office hours are currently 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. PST Mon-Fri (they'll increase soon during Spring and early Summer).
Just in case, here is the link to our Contact Us page to send us an email: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new
4:48 "best done in feet" 😂
Good catch! "Best done in linear feet if you're purchasing in the US" would be more accurate haha.
It's probably out of spec, but I find with a heavy vacuum I can easily exceed the capabilities of the Hendricks backflow preventer. As simple as 20-25PSI with 50 gallons of water volume will blow straight through the tube exceeding the backflow drainage. I was quite suprised to observe this. I do have a 2nd backflow preventer on my hose bib which actually works. But I was quite surprised by this behavior. Maybe someday I'll write the company and ask.
Interesting! And it likely is worth writing as backflow prevention is of preeminent importance in any irrigation system or any cross connection really. We all (public and those in the industry) tend to take it for granted a bit, just installing one and assuming it will work reliably in all situations.
You're probably correct that it's out of spec a bit, at least depending on how quickly the 50 gallons was applied -- the better version of the backflow preventers we carry (J10 Vacuum Breaker) is rated for 720 GPH, after that I think you'd get something similar to your experience.
If anything else, hopefully this comment will get those reading it to be mindful of their backflow prevention, thank you for bringing some attention to it :)
If connecting sprinkler heads to a timer, do you still need backflow preventer/filter/pressure regulator - or is that just necessary for drip irrigation?
A backflow preventer you'll definitely still want -- a filter, if you're using lawn sprinklers on municipal water, could go either way -- in most cases they wont' be needed since sprinklers have much larger orifices than drip emitters. If you did opt for a filter, you could use a much wider mesh. If it's a dirty water source, some filtration would be best, though still not as fine as with drip.
A pressure regulator is not often used in lawn sprinklers -- a lot of modern sprinklers (Hunter Pro Spray, RainBird 1800) includes built in regulation in each unit, and traditional sprinkler rotors can operate at high pressure.
If you have particularly high PSI, over 70 PSI, a regulator could benefit, but in most cases lawn sprinklers won't need one.
Essentially: Backflow prevention for sure, filtration and pressure regulation can go either way, but in most cases are not used with lawn sprinklers :)
Which one should I order for garden bed?
In ground bed or raised bed? One of the raised bed kits would be a great place to start either way -- if you have in-ground beds the only big change to the kit would be removing some of the elbows (elbows are used to get the mainline tubing up the wall of raised beds). If you have raised beds, it would just be a matter of customizing the kit to match things up (quantity of fittings, length of mainline, total length of drip line) to your system -- you're on the right video to help with that part as well, you can draw it up like we did here and count/add up what you need.
We'd also be happy to help -- we can review your design and tallied up fittings and see if we spot any problems. Also happy to answer any questions that come up as you go through the process. We can assist here or from our Contact Us page here: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new :)
If I have a whole-house 50 micron sediment filter do I need a filter at the head assembly?
50 micron filtration is incredibly strong filtration -- if it's filtering the water at 50 micron before the irrigation system, you should be good to go, at least so long as there's nothing downstream of the filter that you wouldn't want in the irrigation system.
The stronger drip irrigation filters filter at 100 to 80 micron, so at 50 you'll be getting very clean water, cleaner even than we we often see in drip systems (again, so long as there's nothing between the sediment filter and the irrigation system that could be picked up). :)
Hi Adam, quick question about the size of the mainline tubing. I will be running drip Irrigation lines from 2 separate hose bibs. One line would be 100 feet in length and the other is 110 feet in length. I checked the flow rate of both the hose vibs and it is 300 gph. Should i go for the 1/2 inch tubing or the 3/4 inch for mainline? I would like to add more flower beds in the future and would want to extend the drip line at both the hose bibs. Thank you.
The size of the mainline will usually be determined by the flow rate of the irrigation system -- this isn't necessarily the flow rate of the hose bib (though it's good to know that number as well).
To determine the flow rate of the irrigation system/zone, just add up the flow rate of all the emitters that will be operating at once (e.g., 500 0.5 GPH drippers is 250 GPH irrigation system flow rate).
If it's getting close to 200 GPH system flow, 3/4" would probably be the better bet, particularly since you'd like to expand on it later.
When you determine the system flow rate, you can also compare it to the flow rate of your water hose bib. You don't want the system flow to exceed the hose bib flow -- a quick example, if you had 350 GPH system flow and 300 GPH from the hose bib, some emitters would be starved of water. In the industry, they'll typically leave a 20% cushion between system flow and water source flow, or 240 GPH in this case. The cushion helps ensure success without calculating every detail (small losses from some fittings, etc).
If you have questions on any of this, just say the word, I'm back in the office for the week and happy to assist :)
What if your flower bed is on a slight incline and about 30 feet from the water faucet?
If the incline isn't severe, not much will change -- gravity does increase pressure, but it takes quite a bit of elevation change to really impact anything. Water pressure is generated/lost at a rate of 0.433 PSI for every 1' of elevation change, so even a 5' inline is only a little over 2 PSI. Being 30' from the faucet, you'd want to use a 1/2" mainline -- 1/2" mainline is good for up to about 200', so you'd be well into the green.
Basically, not too much would change for you and unless the incline is severe, you'd unlikely even notice a difference between a system on a flat field :)
@@dripdepot Thank you for taking the time to reply. So glad I found your channel.
Is it okay to attach 1/4 " distributer tubing to 1/2 " poly tubing via a 1/4" barbed coupling? or do I need to use the barbed coupling on emitter tubing only?
You bet, in fact, using a 1/4" coupling is the preferred way to connect 1/4" poly to 1/2" poly, so you're absolutely on the right track :)
All you do is use a 1/4" punch to make a hole in the wall of the 1/2" poly, connect your 1/4" tubing to one side of the coupling and then push the other side into the punched hole.
We made a short video that shows the above steps if you'd like to see the process in action: ua-cam.com/video/_dXByuYcgtM/v-deo.html
When you say 200’ is the maximum run length, is that the max length of any single row, or the total length of the system? For example, could I run 100 feet of 1/2” mainline from my water source then connect it to 200’ of 1/2” drip tubing (5 rows each 40’ long)? Would that still work, or is that now a “run length” of 300’?
You bet, in regards to line length, what you described would still be within specification -- that limitation applies to a single length, so it is ok to have multiple individual lengths whose sum is greater than 200' so long as no one run is over 200'. :)
Please can you help me with the design of the irrigation system for my vegetable farm. One is 80 m x 48 m and the second one is 10 m x 64 m greenhouse. We intend to plant in grow bags.
Thank you for reaching out! You bet, we'd be happy to offer guidance. If you can, contact us here at our contact us link -- that link sends us an email and during our office hours we'll get back to you promptly. Our office hours are currently 7 am to 3 pm PST Mon-Fri. Here is that link: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new
My mainline is 176.5ft on one side of the garden, we plan on adding more in the future so we’re planning on a 3/4 inch mainline. Should our emitter line/drip tape be 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch?
Also, on the other half of the garden we have rows of crops. The rows are about 28 feet. Is it okay if we use the drip tape for that? Or does that need to be mainline too?
Sorry if you’ve addressed this in other videos, I am struggling to get all of this figured out still😅
With my drip tape, it will be over 500 ft total… is that okay?
@@Katherineroberts33 Great questions Katherine, and you're welcome to reach out with questions at any time :) First, good call on going with the 3/4" if it's 176.5' and you plan to expand in the future -- going 3/4" now will help future proof everything.
How long are your rows going to be coming off that mainline? 1/4" drip line is good for about 20' to 30' depending on your (6" or 12") emitter spacing. After that, better to go with 1/2" drip line or drip tape.
You don't have to add your drip tape or drip line lengths into your total mainline length, each individual run will count for its own individual run -- so, for example, if you have five 20' runs of 1/4" drip line, even though that totals 100', each individual one is within the recommended maximum.
One thing to account for with your total tape or drip line (or even a mix) is the flow rate of the system versus the flow rate of the water source. The flow rate of the system is the sum of all emitters operating at once -- for example, if you were using 500' of drip tape with a 0.5 GPH emitter spaced every 12", you'd have a system flow rate of 250 GPH. You want to compare that number to the flow rate provided by the water source to make sure there's enough flow to feed all the emitters.
If you haven't yet, you can test the flow rate of your water source with just a timer and a bucket -- time how long it takes to fill the bucket with water, and then plug the numbers into the Flow Rate Calculator at this link: www.dripdepot.com/irrigation-calculators
If the flow rate of the system (adding up all the emitters) exceeds the flow provided by the source, not to worry, the solution is pretty easy -- usually it just means going with a second zone by using either a hose bib splitter or a 2 outlet timer so you can have two individual systems that run at different times (and I can help with that if it ends up being the case) :)
My problem is I live on an acre that needs water. 150 X 290 feet. How do I put that on a sheet of graph paper? I have trouble comprehending that!
Outside of anything digital, the easiest (and least expensive) would probably be large format drafting paper -- there's large graph/drafting paper out there that can be as large as 24” x 36” or even 36” x 48” that would allow you to create a reasonable scale to work with :)
You could break it up into smaller chunks on separate pieces of graphing paper and tape them together afterwards, essentially creating your own large format drafting paper.
There's always digital options/apps, but most of the free ones are focused on lawn irrigation (if you're irrigating a pasture or a large lawn they'd be worth looking into) or are cost prohibitive at the moment.
Definitely more of a challenge when you start getting into larger sizes, happy to help with any questions!
Can we send you a photo so you can write us up an order? I’m will do pre-pay for this! 🙏
You bet! While we cannot fully design a system remotely, we can absolutely help with yours. If it's not too complex, we can probably tell at a glance :)
If you have a sketch with measurements, that would be best (or measurements as an overlay over the photo). A lot of what goes into these is determining how much tubing is needed to get water everywhere it needs to get to. You can get our email address at this link: help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000049095-how-to-contact-drip-depot
When using 1/4 drip with emitters every 6 inches, do you still multiply the total length by .5?
Close! For 6" spaced line, you'd multiply the total liner feet by 1 (since there's an emitter every 6", there's 2 per foot). If you use 12" spacing, you can multiply its length by 0.5 (one 0.5 GPH emitter every foot). :)
@@dripdepot Thank you.
Nice
Hello, Can i make my mainline the same diameter as the dripline If it has a sufficient flowrate coming out of it to meet the l/h needs of the dripline and if my dripline doesn't exceed the maximum length you've put up on the grid ( is that because too much length would lose pressure and drippers wouldnt work?) or am I missing something. Also instead of putting end plugs, I have seen alot of examples where people connect the ends of the driplines with each other via a perpendicular line to form a sort of grid. I understand this makes it so water can come from elsewhere incase there's a blockage but is there any other advantage to doing this. Im trying to understand and save money on fittings as you can tell, especially for my mainline which is 1"
You can make your main the same diameter as the dripline so long as you account for the physics -- you do have it exactly right, smaller diameters experience more friction loss than larger diameters, so you could end up losing a lot of pressure if it's not sized correctly. With that said, that doesn't mean bigger is always better, as you noted, costs are something to take into account, and if your flow doesn't call for a larger diameter and you don't plan to expand on it, there's no need to spend more on a larger diameter.
You've also got it right on the "grid" or "loop" -- its primary benefit is so that water can come from any direction in the event of a clog. In larger systems, there's also pressure benefits, but that's not really seen in smaller systems. In smaller systems I prefer to go with end caps -- end caps also have the benefit of allowing you to flush your lines (which in turn, greatly reduces clogging).
Basically, you're on the right track with all your thoughts there :)
thanks so much for your responses!@@dripdepot
Why didn’t you just run 20’ from the spigot (instead of 18’) to the beds and then the 27’ run could have fed each bed with a tee joint at each bed. Less cuts and couplers that way. I am planning my raised bed garden and that’s why I ask.
I'm probably misunderstanding (and if I am, definitely let me know!), but the reason we went 18' and then Tee'd off is so that each bed could have its own individual on/off.
Here is an image that shows the design we were going for -- the coupling valves in this design are in a slightly different place, but achieve the same thing (third picture down): help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000119078-raised-bed-sample-layouts
@@dripdepot thank you! That makes sense :). I really appreciate your quick response.
4:50 - Why does 27 feet plus 18 feet equal only 40 feet?
Ah, good catch! I think it was from knowing in advance that I'd be rounding up to the 100' since the 50' would be too short (we shot the design video after we installed the actual system).
Thank you for catching that by the way! We'll be able to fix this one without re-uploading the video, so truly and much appreciated.
So if I'm doing my math correctly, my pressure regulator / filter 3/4",30 PSI @10GPM could theoretically flow 600GPH? That's a whole lot of drippers!
Is that the results you got from the timer and bucket test? If so, that is indeed a very healthy flow rate! There will be some small losses from fittings, head assembly parts, etc -- a lot of designers like to subtract 20% to account for all of those so they don't have to calculate each one individually -- this leaves enough cushion to generally "ensure success" :)
Any of your employees need a vacation work trip to honolulu to help me?
Probably quite a few, but I think I'd jump to the front of the queue myself on this one!
In all seriousness, I'm also happy to help from here, any questions you have, don't hesitate to fire off this way, in the comments or through our contact us on our website. We do have actual people who help via email all day and are trained in drip irrigation. I'm always available to them for any questions that go above their knowledge base too :)
Wishing you a beautiful morning out there in Honolulu!
Toooo fast
I'm trying to understand.
Been looking for these instructions in forever. Like to see graph paper a little lg.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to fire us off a message, we're absolutely happy to assist!
You can slow down the speed of the video by clicking on the little "gear" in the lower right-hand corner and then set it at .75. This slower speed helps me when the person in the video talks fast. :)
Sinister
The website is a mess. You need a search engine.
We really appreciate you taking the time to point out this issue. We are working on a solution to make navigating the website easier. If you need any help finding something in particular, we're happy to help provide personal assistance to find the right parts available in chat on our website or email support@dripdepot.com.
@@dripdepot the delivery arrived today. Please, please stop using fedex. They don't care about your product. Today's jackass driver, instead of walking up the path and putting the box on the porch, reaches over and balances the box on the edge of a raised bed on the far side of the yard. Caused me to break a pot trying to get out there before it fell off of the raised bed into the yard. They have literally chunked stuff over the fence into the yard and have the gall to take a picture of it.
Ugh, I too hate delivers that go like this. In all seriousness, we used to use UPS and experienced the same problem (that really got noticeable when they took on Amazon deliveries). There will be discussion about it again this year, I'll absolutely submit this feedback -- we collect a lot of it during the season. Perhaps surprisingly, we experience the fewest issues with USPS, now if we could just get them to do large/heavy packages for a lower rate.
@@dripdepot thanks for your reply. I think service is not consistent nation wide for any given delivery company. It's all down to who works at those facilities. In one city, Fedex might be giving better service than UPS and another city USPS might be better.
In my city, USPS is probably the better one, although UPS is not too bad. Maybe it would be better to give customers the option of who they prefer to make the delivery and what each price is at checkout.
I'm planning my drip irrigation setup for an indoor 5x5 tent and trying to figure out what the best setup would be. I have 3 rows of 3 plants and i've heard some people say that I should be looping the mainline to equalize pressure, but most schematics I see just have the lines come to an end with an end cap. What are your thoughts on running closed loop? Thank you! Edit: I'll be using 9" halo emitters for each 5 gallon pot.
Great question on the loop, we see landscapers who are new to drip frequently doing closed loops. With smaller and/or lower pressure systems, it doesn't really offer a benefit. In fact, it often just ends up translating to higher material costs to get enough tubing to close the loop. There is a benefit in larger and/or higher pressure systems, but for drip it has to be a pretty large system to really benefit. :)
From what you've described, you'll be more than good to go with standard layout (assuming there's enough pressure to begin with of course, but there likely is) :)