HO Scale Advanced Weathering | The Solid Cold Mechanical Reefer
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- Опубліковано 3 тра 2021
- This is a comprehensive tutorial on how I weathered the HO Scale Athearn Genesis "Solid Cold" Mechanical Reefer. Princeton 3/4 "Grainer" brush: seven dollars (CDN) at Michaels Craft Store.
Paint Properties 101: Acrylic Paints are fundamentally opaque. Oil Paints are fundamentally transparent. It doesn't matter how much water you add to acrylic paint pigment, it will always be opaque. At full strength, regardless of thinner volume, oil paint properties will always be transparent.
As a previous forklift operator, I can confirm shutting doors with the tip of the blade is the SOP. 😂
What a fun video. Cant wait to build my skills! Thanks Boomer!
The good ol' Forklift. ;-) Cheers and Happy New Year!
Practice does not make you perfect practice makes you better that’s what my pops always told me. Thank you for your tutorials.
Yes indeed! . . . great wisdom!
LOL... plastic Romans; the Spitfire; the Matilda tank.... lovely to have you pull all those old memories back into my consciousness.... nice one.
Glad you enjoyed it
Finally! Somebody that weathered and aged the trains too. So many layouts where the scenery is aged and weathered by the trains look like they are brand new and never been used. Good job.
Couldn't agree more! Cheers and thanks for commenting. ~ Boomer.
Definitely a "masters course" in weathering, brain is reeling, but know where to look again in future! Incredible video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
THANK YOU for sharing, I;m always looking for more insight on how to go about weathering certain things and I just learned more from this, thanks again for sharing!!
You are so welcome!
I really enjoyed listening to your story and how you've been painting all your life and that you've found a weathering/painting method you are happy with. I struggle with losing patience and rushing sometimes and eventually giving up. Looking forward to your next video!
Glad you enjoyed it! I understand what you are saying about "giving up." I gave up on lot's of attempts in the past. Then I kept revisiting them and they eventually came out O.K. But, I have also failed miserably often at times. It's just part of the learning curve we all have to go through bud. Cheers ~ Boomer.
The weathering technique is very effective, the various mediums you use made sense, how you build them up, which I very much took note of. The oil rust streaks at end were just perfect, and noting how you kept brush moving away from body in a straight line. There can be a tendency to flick at end of stroke or stop to soon. Your experience shows, and you created a worn looking car, which looks amazing. Top Notch Boomer. All the best. Brian @ The Angels
Thank You. It was a requested tutorial. I'm glad it's over . . . lol.
Some of the best model work I have ever seen.
Thank you. I hope it inspires!
Thanks! What a great explanation of insights, techniques and materials. Well done.
O.K. Thank you!
Very good technique, thanks for planting the seeds of creativity! Great commentary too.
You are welocome!
Your weathering videos and the psychology behind them has been so helpful to me. Keep them coming!! Thanks!!
Thank you! Here is a weathering video with a different subject, but it relates to any model including trains, etc.ua-cam.com/video/FFmi06GvMJI/v-deo.html
The wife and I went to Hobby Lobby today and I spotted this brush that looked really interesting. We came home after a nice dinner and I started watching your video. Near the end of the video I see you are using my new brush. I knew it looked interesting and could be useful. Great video and tutorial!! It is a bad day when I don't learn something new. As it turns out, this was a very good day. Thanks for taking the time to making this video. Cheers - Larry.
That is awesome Larry! It's a great brush to have in the kit. Cheers
Thanks for sharing your passion, and for making me aware of a thing called a Grainer Brush!
You bet!
You are now the ultimate go to for setting my own personal expectations of quality! Really clever techniques. Thanks
😁👍Thank You!
We have pre-weathered on Australia just once colour spray over, an artist can teach another technique but it's up to the student to become an artist
Yes sir, indeed it is. Cheers.
I don't know about anybody else .... but, I felt like I was in a masterclass, lol.
Great techniques man, I am learning immensely from you. Thanks again for sharing... thank god for UA-cam!
Thank you. It's always nice to hear someone who benefits from the channel content. Thanks for sharing that. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Very inspiring , the best tutorial I have seen. I will try to follow you. Thank you
Awesome, thank you!
When I studied art I was always told, layer your paint, don't try to out it all on at once. That applies to all mediums, like, water, pastel. Sound advise. Beautiful work Boomer
You are exactly right about that! The novice will often try to cover things in one "thick" coat . . . or several . . . which will almost always end up making mud. Cheers.
Absolutely awesome to see this. I've been learning a ton from your videos and practicing on some old inexpensive cars. Thank you for sharing.
Great to hear! It will come in ebb and flow after a while. The rewards are worth it! ~ Boomer
Thank you so much for your videos -- and the work that goes into making them. I've been doing this stuff for over 20 years -- on top of two careers in which fine hand work and dedication to craftsmanship were big parts of the package -- but I still find them immensely valuable. I appreciate both your skills and your don't-be-afraid-of-mistakes approach, as well as your realism about the fact that there's no substitute for putting in the time it takes to learn a craft.
You are very welcome Evan! Thank you for taking the time to contribute your wisdom and thoughts to the the model railroad community we all love and share. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
Always enjoy your videos and commentary about everything it's always spot on accurate... thanks... keep up the great work
Thanks, will do!
Thank you very much for your service to the community! It's always a treat to watch your videos and this was - like the others - very instructive, helpful, and inspiring! Thank you!
Much appreciated! Thank You! Now I must go to the insane asylum . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Beautiful rust Eh! Really enjoy your thoughts on things, you’re an inspiration in my modeling.
Wow, thank you! I must admit that everyone's comments are an inspiration to me as well. It seems to work both ways, which is cool. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Love the whole weathering process, one of the best aspects of the hobby in my opinion, and so relaxing because I immerse myself into thinking how I want each object to look and how it has formed, but best of all it now has my personal touch to it. Great to know I am using similar techniques and colors. Thanks for the tip about the "Grainer" brush.
Awesome, thank you!
Great tutorial, what en excellent result, some clever techniques there, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! It's always rewarding when things turn out. They don't always work out as one would expect. Cheers.
Very effective process provides excellent result. Thanks
Thank You. It is one of many methods in the great art from we all pursue. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing your techniques. I'll make your head swell a little and say that you are considered a master to many watching including myself because you've put in the time it takes to get there like you talked about in the beginning of the video. Stay well. -Wil 👍
Thank You Will. Happy modeling. ~ Boomer.
Outstanding tutorial. Thank you for sharing!
You are so welcome!
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and insights.
My pleasure! Cheers.
I’ve done weathering at least four different ways. Depending on the mood I’m in.😊 Airbrush. Acrylics. Pastels. Powders.
Yup.😁I get that. 😉
1) Great to hear some classical music for a change!! 2) It’s great to hear the way you’re thinking.
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers.
Great video and tutorial of weathering techniques! The rust just looks amazing and definitely makes it pop like taking the Qtip to clean up certain edges to bring the original color back through. You're quite talented and yes I know its something you have to work with to become like anything else. Thankfully since I started doing my own weathering and graffiti I've been very pleased with the results. Fortunately I have experience with an airbrush with painting tags and tshirts. The airbrush is the best thing to use when doing the undercarriage on rolling stock. Thanks again for sharing your videos with us along with your time and effort!
The airbrush is the most powerful tool any modeler can learn to use.
Must buy grainer brush in the very near future👍 thanks for posting🚂🚃🇨🇦
Nice brush to have in the kit.
Your definitely an artisan. Just jaw dropping work
Thank you! They say you should do what you love to do at the end of the day. Stick with it, and some good comes out. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
Hello from Seattle, USA. I love your layout, advice, tips, and techniques. You have inspired me to get to work on my own 8 ft by 2 ft layout and I’ve made a lot of progress. My wife says that my buildings look better than any store bought kit she’s ever seen.
I like your unique use of Tamiya X-21 flat base. Some people don’t know this but X-21 is meant to be used to turn Tamiya gloss paint into Tamiya flat paint by adding it directly to the paint.
Can’t wait for the next video but in the meantime I’ll settle for watching Luke Towan.
Thank You. I'm glad to hear you are modelling and having fun. It's important to scratch the creative itch for sure. Besides, look at all the rewards we glean. Luke Towan is a fantastic modeler. He was one of my first subscribers as well. He does stunning work. Cheers.
Thanks Boomer... this is an excellent video and a beautiful finished example!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Boomer, thanks for sharing your techniques with us - that flat base really gives a cool effect! I love how the roof is looking with just that and the burnt umber wash. Then manipulating it into "peeling" with Isopropyl was fascinating to see. Using the "incompatibility" of the mediums to your advantage - brilliant!
I was eager to see how you faded this yellow car to that nice off white-yellow color as I struggled fading yellow down on a recent project, only to find out it was a white car with a yellow wash! made me laugh out loud. be well! -John
Cheers.
Once again another awesome tutorial,off to the art supply store now
Awesome! Thank you!
The forklift driver uses an extension that fits over the fork. If I remember 4’ long or more to open the doors that are stuck shut. Like any profession some are more skilled. I worked with an old guy who could flip a dime in the air with one of his forks. Great tutorial, I’m impressed with your eye for detail and your ability to recreate that detail with shadows and colors.
Thanks for the compliment and the insight on the forklift veteran. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
Thank you very much for this! Makes me want to buy some cheap car and start weathering. Definitively stored this one away for later reference.
You are welcome! Go for it! Cheers ~ Boomer
THANK YOU BOOMER, all your videos are amazing!
My pleasure!
That brush you used at the end for the streaks is amazing. I’ve seen a lot of videos on weathering and that is something I’ve never seen before. Doesn’t look inexpensive. I’m in n scale so I’ll need to look for something a bit narrower. Thanks for sharing
I picked up the brush at Michaels Craft Store for seven dollars. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Great lesson, really enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Thank You Dave. Waiting eagerly for your next layout update! Cheers. ~ Boomer.
so much to lean from your videos. thanks
Thank You. Cheers.
I agree with you 100% I believe in weathering models I plan to do just that with these truck kits I build here nothing every stays perfectly clean in real life you have to develop your own techniques in weathering models
Well said!
@@boomerdiorama + I just can't believe how realistic your layout looks it looks like it could be used in a move special effects move great work will keep watching your videos and give them a thumbs up 👍
@@dennisbisconti4583 I worked in the movies a few decades back as a model maker/artist. ;-)
Ok ok. Cool brother. Thank you for the insight and advice im going to try it asap
No problem 👍
Nice touch on the x 21......going to try that . That gives perfect oxidation....
When you combine it with an Isopropyl wash and addition Vallejo paints and water, the results can be remarkable. Cheers.
👍so comprehensive! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
😱Wow! Amazing! Congrat!😉
Thank you!
Impressive; thanks for sharing
You are welcome! Cheers.
Fantastic!!!!!!
Thank you. This (Refrigerated Car) model is one of Athearn's very best. '-)
Thank you very much.
😁👍
ballasting with my doctered up glue is working well
Sounds great! I bet it looks great as well!
I add dish detergent in a minute amount to prevent water spotting.
Yes. great idea!
i have alot of usdeless info in my head but my high school art classes are peeking out, yay
One of my favorite courses in elementary school before they abolished it from the Canadian public school system. Cheers.
Fantastic tutorial. It’s so easy to overthink things when it comes to weathering. You demonstrate in a way that is very enjoyable to watch. I have some X-21 and will for sure give this a try for the initial fade/wash. I may have missed it but did you thin this slightly with isopropyl? All the best, John
Thank You for asking John. Yes I did thin it (50/50). You may find your own preference the more you get used to it. Cheers.
Greetings From Colorful Colorado WJ,
Tonight is the 3rd time I am watching this Vlog. Every time I re-watch your videos I catch/learn something new and this time is no disappointment. I am wondering why you would mask the trucks? You mentioned that you didn't want to airbrush the pick-ups on the trucks. What are the pick-ups for? Lights?
Your Faithful Student,
John
I masked the trucks because there are wheel wiper electrical pickups for the soundboard in this unit. It has a sound file for a genset that comes on . . . idles . . . then shuts off for awhile.
These are great techniques, thanks for showing us! I have a question regarding the oil paint streaks. Because oil paints tend to dry much slower than acrylic's, how long do you let your burn umber oils sit on the car before you apply the brush with the mineral spirits?
That all depends on the painter. It also depends if the oil is leached out first. Personally, I wait ten to fifteen minutes after pulling the oil off a piece of cardboard to suck the oil out first, and then apply it, wait a few minutes, and then streak it down with a clean brush, dipped in mineral spirits. Always a clean brush. ;-)
Very cool
Cheers.
Awesome 🚂😎👍
Thanks for watching!
Thanks.
You're welcome Bob! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Boomer, I grew up learning to paint on model cars and trucks. No telling how many I put together and painted and then mom threw them away when they fell apart from age after I moved out of my room.
We used to blow our models up with firecrackers on Halloween when we were kids . . . lol.
Wonderful, thanks. How do you feel about using a hair dryer to speed the drying process?
I love it! I would do it. But my wife would stare me down like a Condor . . . lol. Cheers.
just relax and keep strokin it down
;-)
As an Englishman, I wonder if it’s possible to get some Vikings painted. I’m of Viking stock and have a small collection of a Viking ship made of glass in a bottle, and some silver looking warriors.
Pull out your brushes and Humbrol paints . . . lol.
Boomer, thanks so much for sharing, these videos are awesome, gonna give it a shot this weekend…. I didn’t see any demo/technique on the Tamiya Weathering Master A & B sets, do you have one or will be doing a video on them? Really do appreciate the time you spent making these tutorials! Thanks Schooner
I don't usually use pastels and I never use chalks. In fact it is rare when, or if, I ever do.
@@boomerdiorama thanks, good to know
You do rule, my dear Boomer. Cheers!
That sounds scary my friend. Besides, my wife would disagree . . . lol. Cheers.
Is it correct that you first applied the X21 on the white car and next you add a filter of yellow ocher to reach the faded yellow color. Cheers Ronald
Sometimes I forget stuff. I should go back and watch my video . . . lol.
Hello Boomer, great presentation. I'm glad I found your channel. Have a question to ask you. What acrylic color would you use for a wash on an old red Conrail box car? Also, would you use the Tamiya x-21 for a base? I appreciate any feedback. Great work again.
No X-21 for base really. I would try raw or burnt umber for a wash and then highlight with flesh or super pale white for starters. You have to practice weathering until you find the right combination and expect to make mistakes. No learning without mistakes. When you gain confidence through practice you will paint any car eventually. Cheers.
Thank you, Boomer. I will give it a go! Appreciate your tips. Thank you.
My Tamiya X-21 Flat Base #81521 is clear, but I noticed that your's is gray? Did you add something to your bottle to make it that gray color? if so, what and at what %? Thank you
It should be grey in color. I only top off the new bottle with 50% IPA.
Are there any dangers of the base model color coming off when you use the tamiya flat base with ipa? Like if I have a green NYC or PC box car, is there any chance the green could come off?
Great question. I have never had an issue with Tamiya paint or "Flat Base" removing factory colors on most cars. I have used this method on Athearn, Atlas, Kato, Tangent, etc. Furthermore, it is best not to thin down the Flat Base (with IPA) if you can avoid it. I have a lot of experience with this product so I don't recommend you thin it more than it already is. Besides, Tamiya (XF-21) "Flat Base" goes a long ways out of the bottle because you only want to lay on an initial thin "Base" layer as the bottle suggests. When it chalks up after drying, you stipple it away with a stiff brush leaving a very flat chalky finish. The theory behind this base paint is to remove the "slippery" effect of the factory surface so washes cling to the surface better which produces nice effects when you use a layered wash application.
If you soak a factory car with IPA or let a puddle of it sit over night on a flat surface then it will loosen some paint but you have to be very aggressive (over-and over) again before it will remove text, font, and then base color. If you don't have the confidence, use a cheap car first before moving to a prized possession. Cheers.😁
If you sprayed the car with clear between steps, couldn't you alternate between water washes and alcohol washes?
Yes! You certainly can! If you don't mind doing that process anything is possible. Some times I will base coat a building with flat enamel paint (spray bomb/rattle can), and then go nuts on it with layers of Tamiya/ IPA for effect. This way I won't have to worry about cutting through to the plastic layer. I like to let underlying layers to show though by accident. ;-).
Begins at 7:17
Cheers.
Wouldn't the ends pick up streaks from grime thrown up from the wheels?
Yes. I weathered the ends with the airbrush (super thin umber wash sprayed on). You can stab it in with a traditional brush as well. That's another tutorial in itself . . . in some ways. Cheers.
Before I apply X-21should I wash my boxcar and dull coat it?
No. Make sure you use a cheap or beater boxcar. When it dry's white and chalky just knock it all down with a stiff brush. Then put water based washes over it one layer at a time.
Any tips for wooden sided cars?
One method, depending on the scale, is very thin Oil washes. Then rub down randomly with wet-and-dry sandpaper.
I've just come from your other video where you used X-21 Flat base but diluted with 99% iso alc. Is the X-21 diluted the same in this video? If so, what was the ratio again please?
I only dilute X-21 to the top of the brim. That's it for X-21.
@@boomerdiorama Brilliant! Thanks for the quick response :)
In N scale there's Micro-Trains company that put out a but load of weather cars.
O.K. . . . news to me. Thank You James. Cheers.
Boomer~ Now that I'm caught up on all the current videos, I've begun watching the earlier ones from the Glover Road "era' that I missed. This is a really good one. I'm curious about the Tamiya Flat Base. How will it work over a decaled car vs. one that is factory painted? In other words, how will it affect the decal film? Using a stiff brush to remove the flat base, it looks like it could destroy the decal. Thanks.
I wouldn't do it unless you use a lacquer sealer coat first. Why? Because thee Isopropyl Alcohol could affect the decal. No issues with a factory painted car though - so far for me.
Hello Boomer, do you always let it dry on its own in the air or do you also dry it quicker with a hair blower? Cheer Ronald
Sometimes I will use a blow dryer. I usually have a fan running off the corner of my bench. It's moving air that dry's the paint, not so much temperature.
Did you spray with dill coat when finished?
No. If I decide to lay on graffiti decals. I'll clear then flat coat. Otherwise I don't usually bother, unless it's a locomotive where I want some "satin" look to it. Cheers.
Great tutorial Boomer. Do you use the X-21 on buildings or just rolling stock?
Good question.
It depends. The primary reason why I prep with Tamiya X-21 "Flat Base" is to fade and create "tooth" for the (slippery) water-based paints (in this case Vallejo). The Flat Base adds "tooth" to the surface. Water based paints love tooth when you want to create a "filter" layer.
Tamiya X-21 helps the water-based paint "cling" to the surface better and it also leaves that "chalky" substance behind which enhances the grip in the corners of the engraving etc. The residual microscopic chalk also "sponges" up the washes, especially in the corners. If you treat a building this way it does the same thing as well (like brick-work for example).
If you just paint with the airbrush only, then you don't need to use the Tamiya X-21 "Flat Base," because all Tamiya paint is technically "flat" primer paint anyway. If you choose to paint a commercial building (already painted), with a brush, and the building is semi-gloss or satin, then I would use the Tamiya X-21 "Flat Base first to achieve the same effect (tooth). I hope that helps. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama it sure does. I picked up 5 bottles of X-21 from the Tamiya store here in Singapore! They only get small deliveries for some reason so I buy up the shop whoever I visit. Lol
@@PeterTillman3 I know eh! I did the same thing the other day. I also grab all the XF-52 "Flat Earth" and the XF-57 "Buff" as well. Besides Black and White, which I always have in stock. I also grab up their new colors which I love like XF-79 "Linoleum Deck Brown." It makes for a beautiful rail brown rust color mixed with a little black. Cheers.
I have been attempting to get this video to play for days. Is there a fix you can make on your end?
Sorry. No. It's UA-cam Platform to your Device issue. I have no technical remedy other than uploading the video. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Good Luck
@@boomerdiorama solved it. Thanks for the reply. I had to reboot my computer. Strangest thing, only this video wouldn't play, any other video was fine.
@@DoktorHalloween 😁When in doubt - reboot the computer. I do it now-and-again myself. 👍Cheers ~ Boomer.
Okay I really need to know how you set up that brush to do rust runs down the side at the start of the video. I need to know brush type how to cut it to make those runs please! I have several cars that need those streaks big time! TIA Bob Menzies in da peg.
It's called a "grainer" brush. Just ask at any art store (I picked up mine at "Opus Art Supply." The bristles are staggered that way by default. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama so I can choose how many teeth the brush has? Also how much pressure is needed to do it with one pass? Light medium or heavy touch on the brush?
@@railscanner Respectfully, No. Nevertheless, it's a good question Bob. The brush comes as is. As far as "touch" on the pass, it's different for each individual. Practice on a sheet of plastic or a cheap boxcar until you get a feel for it, then just dive in and go for it. We all have to do the practical with risk of fail. No one has it mastered . . . lol. Cheers
my phones broken, the new one arrives tomorrow
Phones, a necessary evil . . . lol.
Boomer,awesome as always.were you listening to Pink Floyd,or you have a grade school/daycare out your window?
I'm near a school with a playground. Open field where the sound really carries. This mic picks up everything. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama You could use that to your advantage with background noise, I thought it was cool,cheers to you.
@Troy b17 To be honest, I don't notice it until the video mic picks it up. Cheers.
Really good video. But please stop with the text box. Love from UK 🇬🇧
Thank you. Cheers.😁
here is the result of your tutorial ua-cam.com/video/7-zOEWMhXHk/v-deo.html
Wow Paul!, that looks like my layout man! Jeesh, that looks fantastic . . . Bravo ~ Boomer.