Your coupon code has allowed me to buy just about every Flitz product made. Thanks for reminding me to use low speeds, wear my visor, and separate the rotary implements into the the sectioned off parts of plastic storage boxes, and the many other Dremel tips you mentioned in this video. Thanks!
Been a gunsmith for many, many years and I’m always thrilled when I learn something new. Adding heat shrink to the End Wire Brush is something I’ll be doing from this point on. 🙏
Smith I used to apprentice for had a saying "Another drool with a Dremel tool" this was because most people had no concept of things like polish on LOW speed with cloth buffs. I use mine all the time to remove light rust or polish brass or nickel silver on knives. With flitz or Semi chrome it takes NO pressure and works like magic.
I use a dremel when making holsters. Instead of punching holes, I drill them with a 3/32 bit. After gluing the holster together, I hold the edge over a piece of scrap wood and drill through the leather into the wood. It makes a clean hole to stitch through, and burnishes the hole to prevent tearing. I use the sanding drum on the sewn together edges to smooth them out for a finished look.
When my sanding tubes wear out I replace them with regular sandpaper (various grits) by cutting strips and gluing the strip on with contact cement (Barge-----usually used for gluing leather). I glue it directly on top of the worn-out paper.
@@AndyGenova-jr9ol Clearly you are a person with no job, social manners, or brains cells to rub together. Your comment is completely ignorant. There are many people that go through dozens if not hundreds of these items depending on the kind of work they are doing. Especially if it's their job/career and not just a hobby. Those costs add up! Plus you have the added option of getting VARIOUS grit sizes on a very useful mandrel size that is CUSTOM. All artists customize their tools in some way at some point. If your closed minded, slow working brain cells can take anything away from this interaction, let it be this... "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than open one's mouth and remove all doubt."
I meant to comment last time i watched this video. This is one of the most helpful and useful videos I've seen concerning dremels and accessories. Thanks.
I just found your UA-cam post. I use the rotary tool in repairing and overhauling vintage sewing machines. Great tool. I learned something new regarding using heat shrink tubing! All your other information is not entirely new to me, but great information. My husband was ONCE using a wire wheel wearing a tee shirt, that didn’t last very long. He! he! Luckily he had a face shield. He now wears an apron and long sleeve shirts plus the face shield. Thanks.
My favorite accessory was a keyless chuck. That has saved me lots of time. I bought a cheap two-pack 3 years ago, and haven't needed the second one yet.
I wear a denim apron as well as the face shield for those cured wire wheels. What amazed me the most is the Dremel company was founded in 1932. Before I used a Dremel I used a Foredom tool in a factory and still have a fondness for them. The Dremel shines as it is portable. I bought mine for woodworking about 30 years ago, but used it more for mechanical work than it's original purchase idea. Cut a lot of rusted fast bolts and nuts with it.
Dremels are now made by Bosch, l found this out when l bought a Depsteck similar to the cordless Dremel, the Depsteck is in green and black and looked so like my Bosch cordless multi drill l looked up the makers, but before l got to them Dremel came up first and was made by Bosch, l would have sworn Depsteck was Bosch, you live n learn.
⚠Avoid using Pliers etc to expand the drum because often break the paper and glue causing other problems. Instead keep the screw loose when not actually being used. That allows the rubber to return it's original shape and much easier to get the drum on. It make take a day or longer for the rubber to relax after being compress months to years because most are sold as "ready to use" with drum on rubber. Try soaking in warm water if need it soon.
@@357magdad This like many others does not solve the root cause and many still try to force the bands over expanded rubber so other viewers hate them. Even most new drums are crush a bit will fit when users loosen the screw when storing. Go and try loosen the screw on your backups and wait for rubber to relax. Note: Rubber can get hard from heat during use and from many chemicals and never relax so some used mandrills are trash now.
Just started learning how to “restore” old pocket knives. I’ve been collecting for only a few years, but didn’t want to just keep buying knives for the sake of buying knives, so I decided to take the hobby into this direction. Got a drill press, vertical sander with grinding wheel, vice, sone clamps, and my late father in laws dremel tool that’s just like yours. There was also a battery powered one in the box, so I’m hoping to use that one as well. I’ve only used a rotary tool a few times, so I’m very new to it. But what a difference it makes cleaning up old carbon steel pocketknives. Can’t believe I was doing all that stuff by hand, taking up a lot of time. Love watching your restoration vids, and the ones like this one. Short, too the point, filled with information. Hank you kind sir, I will def be using your vids as some of my learning tools. I just got a 70s delrin winter bottom handled Queen moose knife, that has to get the pivot replaced on the clip point blade. I’ll be going into your vault to find tips. Happy new year, and be safe
This amazing tool has done jobs in tight spots that couldn’t have been done with any other tool ! It has saved me a lot of money ! I always enjoy watching videos on tips for a Dremel tool . 👍
Great video and advice to most people that don’t work with these types of tools daily. There’s even some good tips for people that do use them daily (that may not know) the heat shrink was a cool tips for sure. You can also take a 1/8” rod or whatever size shank for the collet your tool is using and cut a slit in the end however deep you may need and fold sandpaper thru it to create a way to gently buff the inside of holes to clean or remove burrs or even open the hole up a small amount. This method allows you to easily work on a range of hole sizes with the same tool just by making the sand paper longer to sling out farther
Went to Walmart to get the separated bit case. First stop, “crafts” where there were some for $7. Then went to the fishing dept. and found better ones for $3-5. Same quality, just a different style. The cheap ones allow you to configure each section yourself. The more expensive ones have fixed compartments.
Like you, I generally run mine at very slow speeds. I have mine plugged in to a foot pedal originally from an old sewing machine. Works great, gives me infinite foot-governed speed control.
The high prices for aa and aaa batteries makes this rechargeable rotory tool a good deal. I was looking for an engraver for marking my handtools. This engraves and does a lot more.
This was a great video! I tend to avoid using a Dremel because of consistently poor results. Now I know that high speed was the problem. Thanks for the great tutorial!
This Chuck is digging that P&C ratchet. I live in the Northwest about 30 minutes from the location of the old P&C factory. i don't collect P&C tools, but I have over 400 of them including several of that style of ratchet. One of my rarest P&C tools is a NOS socket that is double stamped with both P&C and Proto mfg. names.
It took me a few years to figure out what a lot of the different bits that my Dremel came with were for. One in particular was the little bit that holds a buffing wheel. It looks like a screw that was welded onto a shank upside down. I can remember thinking, wth is this for? It must be for making holes to drive a screw thru. Nope, a buffing wheel gets screwed onto it. 😃
If you've never done any metal polishing, professional machines use taper screw which is much quicker to swap out various mops and buffing wheels plus the edge wont catch on items being polished with leather washer reinforcing center of wheels and preventing them screwing on too far Amateur 'prosumer' stuff is parallel spindle bolted together with washers holding mops and generally low power. (2hp is about minimum for professional polisher, 5hp more common in my limited experience) The nut holding mops can and does get in the way quite often and will mark parts very badly.
I was recently taking something apart and inevitably the phillip screw heads stripped out. These were tiny #1 screws. Rather than use an easy out I got the cutting wheel of the rotary tool and cut a slot across the head and used a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the screws. I just hope I can remember this hack. I'm an old fart.
I had a similar problem with a window winder that had anti theft screws in it. The window winder had to be replaced so I used the cutting wheel on the Drexel to make a slot for a flat edged screw driver.
Wonderful, especially the comments on the face shield and slow running. Remember, however, that on slow speeds the full wattage is almost certainly not available, as with drills. Also, though not mentioned, the chuck (available as an accessory) carries a lot of energy. Probably a low speed tool. Also, I am looking at buying a Dremel drill stand for mine. It is not so much for drill stand as such, but as a way of holding the machine without clamping and stressing it. You showed a right angled hand set. Not sure about hand sets as they rob power from the machine. The result could be overload?? You might enjoy UA-cam 'Clickspring'. Many thanks to you and commenters.
Awesome idea with the HS tubing! I recently bought double fluted grinding bits for cleaning up bad welds to get rid of lots of material in intricate places. I wish my welding skills were better and my MIG didn't spatter all over the place but you gotta do what you gotta do
Thanks for this Magdad, a really useful summary of the techniques you've shown, I reckon the top tip is the heat shrink ! The only tip I can add is that I've also used Scotchbrite cut to size on the 2" yellow velcro pad ( like you had loaded in the right angle drive) it sticks reasonably well to the velcro , but can be a little tricky to remove after it wears down at the edges !
Useful tips. I also use my B&D Dremel equivalent tool at slow speed. I will have to get a set of the SWPEET plastic wheels. I use the grinding wheels you show e.g. to cut HSS tool blanks. Sometimes they work and wear down without breaking, the smaller brown ones often break, likely to make hand causing a slight twist on the disc. Dave.
On the buffing wheels is the higher number grit coarse and the lower number grit finer? Many people put a different number with the various colors. Is the lower number finer and the higher number coarse? Thank you great information .
I'm new to Dremels, but this thing has been great. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfPgcZ5_Cl0HDUKkMJAKde11YKQZVgMoR The variable speed is awesome and the cordless aspect makes it so easy to work with. I am constantly finding uses for it that make tasks easier. Recently I put in a new deadbolt on one of our doors. I knew I had to enlarge the hold where the deadbolt goes into the door frame. At first I thought I would have to get a big router and figure out how to use it for that, but then I rermembered we have the dremel. I was able to enlarge the hole almost as easy as if I was drawing with a pen. It's also great for grinding our dog's nails done and so many other household tasks.
There is a thing called "abrasive cleaning stick". They clean clogged abrasive and make it good again multiple times. Saves money and time, because using it is faster than replacing the sanding drum.
I have a small angle grinder with many attachments and it is doing its job well , like cutting the metal , cutting the stone , polishing and shaping the metal sheet . But it is dangerous, Dremel is doing all you can plus like router . So in my view you need both .
Great video magdad! You were tell how you like to cut out you own abrasive wheels. I have been doing that but I use a rivet to put those together. I don’t know if it’s any better or faster but my fat finger don’t have to fight that tiny screw. Also on the flat sanding disk I put 3 on at a time. They don’t rip off as easy. Anyway great video. Thank You for sharing!
Dremel's work great... Nothing cleans the ears better than dremel's and Qtips on hi speed..lol.. MD thx for all the tips.. I had a nice Dremel at one time, but it disappeared.. my x-wife might be involved in it's disappearance.. MD take care my friend and God Bless...
As an alternative to those brown cutting discs which come with these sets, which are extremely brittle, you can get small metal discs which are diamond coated. These I have found extremely useful, especially for metal work.
I see you restore a lot of tools, I do too, an old woodworker back about 40 years ago used to do this to recondition old rusty tools then put a clear coating on them and sell these to supplement his tiny retirement allowance. He showed me how to coat a tightly packed heavy cloth buffing wheel with an adhesive from Caswell then you rolled this compound on the wheel and let the glue dry. The compound was probably silicon carbide, emery or aluminium oxide in fine grits like 120-400. You could take an old rusty hammer or pair of channel locks and lay into this wheel pretty well and it would make the rusted item look like new in a few minutes or so. Must have heavy gloves on and personal protection gear on. When the buffing wheel glue wore off you can remove it all down to new cloth then recoat and roll on whatever grit abrasive you wanted.
I bought a set of ear wax removal tools. The tools in the set with a round handle fit in a chuck and I use them at the lowest setting to stir model paints.
I agree with comment below about adding the heat shrink tubing to gather and concentrate and contain the bristle s, this made the video worth it all by itself, good job
Great tips. I have a very old single speed Dremel that I bought as a kid. I had to buy a special Dremel rheostat plug in attachment to make it a variable speed.
About 'wire throwing' - you can easily make a see-through shield attachment from a reusable (sturdy) plastic drinking cup. Or from a spraycan (protective) cap. > Make a hole in the bottom. Cut away half of the sides. Orrrr... Alternatively.... You could try to hold it so you're not in the line of fire :) . (Aka if it fails, the ceiling, walls, and work surface get sprayed) . But I see you tend to aim it so everything from the work surface up can receive the full brunt... Sooo - diy plastic shield it is! (:
I use the top half of a 2 liter bottle with the cap for a shield. Pop a hole in the cap so it will just fit on your Dremel with the plastic ring off. Then screw the ring on and then the bottle part. If that makes sense?
Good Video! My dremel was burned throug after a wile. Now i have a Foredom similar machine with flexible shaft and foot pedal and I absolutely love it! It has so much tractive power out of zero rpm and keeps rpm on low speed when burdened. There is lower speed possile with it and its very durable, cause of the big motor with long lasting brushes. No over heating problems and always a handy cold handpiece which takes tools up to 6mm without constantly change collets. If you once worked with one, you wont go back to dremel. To have variable speed with foot pedal i"ll miss never again. They are cheaper than dremel and have spare parts too for reasonable prices.
Great tips. I just tried the heat shrink tip last week and the worked quite well for me. I've heard people using super glue around the centre of the wire spitters, sound plausible but I didn't try it out personally yet.
Great tips! I like the Q tip idea. Scotch brite is one of my favorite abrasives to use. I need to make some of those little wheels, another great idea.
i use a dremel 3000 electric my top tip, as ive worked my way up to a dremel ive had some cheap but reliable rotary tools one a parkside model i fit it snuggly into a custom made wooden frame that works as a Lathe also a black n decker i made a brilliant 2 inch belt sander from so many amazing things we can make from one.(getting a fordam in june)
That's no joke Magdad! Had a cutoff wheel explode on me 3 weeks ago! Thank God I was wearing glasses but still cut cut on my cheek and forehead and a chunk actually struck in my scalp !
I use an old sewing machine foot control for a speed control as it gives a much better control of speed. With this controller it allows an almost 0 RPM to full speed. They are usually available at a sewing machine repair shop for free or a few dollars.
One tip is to always have a spare set of motor brushes so you can swap them out when needed. It isn't fun waiting on a set of brushes to continue a project!
I've been wanting to purchase a similar tool. There are so many options out there, what brand & model would one recommend for mostly lighter work, like sanding and polishing. But will do some cutting of softer materials like wood and some softer metals like aluminum and the like? I also noticed you reccomend low rpm settings in a lot of situations, but in some cases you didn't explain why. I assume you get better results or tool wear, but I'm a very curious one and l always need to know "why?" Sorry.
Check out your local Harbor Freight. They often have good coupon deals. Make sure you get one with variable speed. Wire wheels and sanding drums work better and last longer at low speed. Polishing should also be done at lower speed.
I HAVE USED AN OLD SEWING MACHINE FOOT TREADLE. I MAKE AN ELECTICAL BOX WITH AN DUPLEX OUTLET. I WIRE IN THE TREADLE BETWEEN THE WALL OUTLET AND MY BOX . I PLUG IN MY DREMEL TO MY NEW BOX AND SET MY TOOL AT THE SLOWEST SETTING. I USE THE TREADLE TO CONTROL MY TOOL SPEED. IT IS VERY GOOD FOR PLASTIC WORK.
I have the 300 model bought years ago love using I have a tidy up and when I need it couldn’t find in safe place I felt so uncomfortable not being to do job went h/w shop luckily they had Drexel 3000 on special offer with excessories kit for $139 ,I told shop keeper he said now you got this one you’ll find the other one.😂🤣
There are three versions of those small "wire thrower" wheels, flat, wide cone and narrow cone. I find that the latter are the most effective ones at removing rust from tight and hard to reach spots, and when they wear down to a nub, what's left is effectively like what you got when you compressed a wide cone wheel with shrink wrap tubing. Instead of throwing these wheels out when they're mostly spent I reserve them for tougher rust spots like that which is encapsulated in shallow pits. Another nice thing about using them this way is that the remaining wires are too short to be thrown at you.
When wire weels or regular (handheld) steel brushes get a bit 'frizzy', I tend to give the bristles a haircut. A little less flex, a lot more strength for tough jobs. (And in case of wire wheels - less momentum. Making the bristles less likely to fly out) It's also how I convert old paint brushes to excellent cleaning brushes :)
@@iggysixx You're referring to full size ones you use on a drill or die grinder. I'm talking about the much smaller ones you use on a rotary tool. You don't need to trip those because they're self-trim pretty quickly.
Great tip on the use of a Dremel Tool I love the part Chuck size toilet paper tubes 🤣😆🤣😆good one ..... enjoy the day Mr Magdad it was nice to see Mr Chuck in the video
i've had 2 dremels and both had bad switches. the first one i had i bought a replacement switch from dremel for and that went bad in no time. i vowed never to buy another dremel but inherited one and now that is not working because of a bad switch.
I run some thin epoxy around the inner part of my small wire wheels. It doesn't completely cure them of spitting wires, but it does cut it down by 90% or so as long as the wheel doesn't get too hot. The heatshrink tubing on the brush is a pretty slick trick. I was trimming them down to get a similar, and probably worse result.
If youre going slow might as well use a cordless drill...not as nice to hold but it works. I use a dremel with a diamond flat wheel to sharpen bits ..even carbide bits...does a great job ..even the cheap ones.
Great video! I totally agree that "if you're not watching 805Roadking, you need to re-examine your life choices". He's the guy who put me on to your channel, and I'm glad he did!
Those Diamond Bits are great for getting thru tough metals and I've used them holes in glass and most recently to drill a small drain hole in a Ceramic Birdhouse..........I like the Flap Drums because they conform to some shapes better but they do cost more than the regular drum sanders. BTW I'm putting in my request for Bombay Mahogany for that Stacked Leather Ball-Peen and maybe Blue the Steel.
2:50 Have you tried gluing the base of the wires in place with some contact adhesive? I haven't done that yet, but we sometimes use those wire brushes at work and I've often thought they should come with the wire bristles glued into place.
Wow, this was loaded with great tip, especially the DIY Scotchbrite tools! The 90 degree tool is very useful for getting the bits into places that would be uncomfortable with the standard configuration. High speed kills them quickly, so your general advice to keep the speed low is right on.
Great video and some new ideas as well, I think my no.1 is the heat shrink tip so useable in a few situations. But now I’ve said it I am wondering if I was ‘fair’ to the others lol. So low speed then, did I catch you right? Bob England
Curious if you have experience using any of the router attachment things for your dremel and if you have any tips regarding those? I've been trying to use mine to engrave some acrylic and am having just no luck at all
Quick tip: Only for the DIY tool modification type folks though. Find a sewing machine peddle and wire it into your dremel plug. Suddenly any other option just isnt an air option. Nothing better than a pedel speed control. Makes all the difference beimg able to throttle your way out of a sticky situation instead of the dreaded bog/ chatter whirl that we all know to well. Give it a try let me know. Makes me wonder why dremel hasnt made this option a standard function on all their tools?
Use coupon code CHUCK and save 20% on your www.flitz.com order!
Your coupon code has allowed me to buy just about every Flitz product made. Thanks for reminding me to use low speeds, wear my visor, and separate the rotary implements into the the sectioned off parts of plastic storage boxes, and the many other Dremel tips you mentioned in this video. Thanks!
@@Anonymous-zv9hk Thanks for using our coupon code! When you get a chance, send me an email! 357mdad@gmail.com
Been a gunsmith for many, many years and I’m always thrilled when I learn something new. Adding heat shrink to the End Wire Brush is something I’ll be doing from this point on. 🙏
Try it out! Let me know how it works for you!
Smith I used to apprentice for had a saying "Another drool with a Dremel tool" this was because most people had no concept of things like polish on LOW speed with cloth buffs. I use mine all the time to remove light rust or polish brass or nickel silver on knives. With flitz or Semi chrome it takes NO pressure and works like magic.
ikr! that was such an AH-HA moment!!
Me too. Great idea.
Same here, great little tip.
You are 100% right about wearing a face shield. I've had those wires go completely through blue jeans into the skin. That was the best tip, for sure.
Those little wires are the worst! I've tracked them upstairs and Mrs Magdad got one in her foot! She was not happy!
@@357magdad They are pesky little things.
I No Longer Use The Metal Wire Wheels . I've Got Them in the Cheek. And Stuck in my Foot From A Throw Rug ! Gone !
I have been looking for a reason to get that exact face shield, now I have a good reason!!!
I use a dremel when making holsters. Instead of punching holes, I drill them with a 3/32 bit. After gluing the holster together, I hold the edge over a piece of scrap wood and drill through the leather into the wood. It makes a clean hole to stitch through, and burnishes the hole to prevent tearing.
I use the sanding drum on the sewn together edges to smooth them out for a finished look.
That's great CJ! I don't know what I'd do without my rotary tool!
That heat-shrink tube tip is the best! Well, the keep-your-speed-down tip is the best too. Thanks for a really informative video.
Thanks Robert!
When my sanding tubes wear out I replace them with regular sandpaper (various grits) by cutting strips and gluing the strip on with contact cement (Barge-----usually used for gluing leather). I glue it directly on top of the worn-out paper.
Good idea Jeff!
Wat a cheapskate ĵust spend the 5 bucks a good dremel is 100.00
@@AndyGenova-jr9ol Clearly you are a person with no job, social manners, or brains cells to rub together. Your comment is completely ignorant. There are many people that go through dozens if not hundreds of these items depending on the kind of work they are doing. Especially if it's their job/career and not just a hobby. Those costs add up! Plus you have the added option of getting VARIOUS grit sizes on a very useful mandrel size that is CUSTOM. All artists customize their tools in some way at some point.
If your closed minded, slow working brain cells can take anything away from this interaction, let it be this...
"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than open one's mouth and remove all doubt."
I meant to comment last time i watched this video. This is one of the most helpful and useful videos I've seen concerning dremels and accessories. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found it helpful!
I just found your UA-cam post. I use the rotary tool in repairing and overhauling vintage sewing machines. Great tool. I learned something new regarding using heat shrink tubing! All your other information is not entirely new to me, but great information. My husband was ONCE using a wire wheel wearing a tee shirt, that didn’t last very long. He! he! Luckily he had a face shield. He now wears an apron and long sleeve shirts plus the face shield. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Mrs Magdad and I found a 1908 New Home sewing machine in a free pile that we plan to work on this winter.
My favorite accessory was a keyless chuck. That has saved me lots of time. I bought a cheap two-pack 3 years ago, and haven't needed the second one yet.
I have always tightened the chuck on my Dremel by hand, so I guess mine is "keyless" too! 😁
I love the ScotchBrite idea. All fantastic tips.
Thanks Kent!
@@357magdad Do you plan to or have you already done a video on the different carving bits?
@@saafewolf69 I do not have any experience with carving bits.
I wear a denim apron as well as the face shield for those cured wire wheels. What amazed me the most is the Dremel company was founded in 1932. Before I used a Dremel I used a Foredom tool in a factory and still have a fondness for them. The Dremel shines as it is portable. I bought mine for woodworking about 30 years ago, but used it more for mechanical work than it's original purchase idea. Cut a lot of rusted fast bolts and nuts with it.
I'm going to have Mrs Magdad make me an apron.
Agreed, pulled a wire out of my forearm with.a Leatherman , I had been intelligent enough to wear eye protection😆
Dremels are now made by Bosch, l found this out when l bought a Depsteck similar to the cordless Dremel, the Depsteck is in green and black and looked so like my Bosch cordless multi drill l looked up the makers, but before l got to them Dremel came up first and was made by Bosch, l would have sworn Depsteck was Bosch, you live n learn.
I'd be careful in the ear with the buds 😂
⚠Avoid using Pliers etc to expand the drum because often break the paper and glue causing other problems. Instead keep the screw loose when not actually being used. That allows the rubber to return it's original shape and much easier to get the drum on. It make take a day or longer for the rubber to relax after being compress months to years because most are sold as "ready to use" with drum on rubber. Try soaking in warm water if need it soon.
Thanks for watching! I've been using that trick for years and I have never had a problem. I even use the cheap Amazon/China sanding drums.
@@357magdad This like many others does not solve the root cause and many still try to force the bands over expanded rubber so other viewers hate them. Even most new drums are crush a bit will fit when users loosen the screw when storing. Go and try loosen the screw on your backups and wait for rubber to relax. Note: Rubber can get hard from heat during use and from many chemicals and never relax so some used mandrills are trash now.
The heatshrink trick has been a life changer! Thanks man!
Thanks! I'm glad it worked for you!
Just started learning how to “restore” old pocket knives. I’ve been collecting for only a few years, but didn’t want to just keep buying knives for the sake of buying knives, so I decided to take the hobby into this direction. Got a drill press, vertical sander with grinding wheel, vice, sone clamps, and my late father in laws dremel tool that’s just like yours. There was also a battery powered one in the box, so I’m hoping to use that one as well. I’ve only used a rotary tool a few times, so I’m very new to it. But what a difference it makes cleaning up old carbon steel pocketknives. Can’t believe I was doing all that stuff by hand, taking up a lot of time. Love watching your restoration vids, and the ones like this one. Short, too the point, filled with information. Hank you kind sir, I will def be using your vids as some of my learning tools. I just got a 70s delrin winter bottom handled Queen moose knife, that has to get the pivot replaced on the clip point blade. I’ll be going into your vault to find tips. Happy new year, and be safe
Cleaning up old pocket knives is fun! Be careful - you'll start cleaning up screwdrivers, pliers, and wrenches!
So many great tips. The shrink wrap on the brushes is one I’d never heard of. Thanks
Thanks for watching Fernando! Give the heat shrink a try and let me know how you like it!
This amazing tool has done jobs in tight spots that couldn’t have been done with any other tool ! It has saved me a lot of money !
I always enjoy watching videos on tips for a Dremel tool . 👍
The rotary tool is super handy. I used it on almost every project!
Great video and advice to most people that don’t work with these types of tools daily. There’s even some good tips for people that do use them daily (that may not know) the heat shrink was a cool tips for sure. You can also take a 1/8” rod or whatever size shank for the collet your tool is using and cut a slit in the end however deep you may need and fold sandpaper thru it to create a way to gently buff the inside of holes to clean or remove burrs or even open the hole up a small amount. This method allows you to easily work on a range of hole sizes with the same tool just by making the sand paper longer to sling out farther
Thanks! Great idea!
Went to Walmart to get the separated bit case. First stop, “crafts” where there were some for $7. Then went to the fishing dept. and found better ones for $3-5. Same quality, just a different style. The cheap ones allow you to configure each section yourself. The more expensive ones have fixed compartments.
One of mine is from the Walmart fishing dept!
Like you, I generally run mine at very slow speeds. I have mine plugged in to a foot pedal originally from an old sewing machine. Works great, gives me infinite foot-governed speed control.
That's an interesting idea!
The high prices for aa and aaa batteries makes this rechargeable rotory tool a good deal.
I was looking for an engraver for marking my handtools. This engraves and does a lot more.
I prefer corded tools.
This was a great video! I tend to avoid using a Dremel because of consistently poor results. Now I know that high speed was the problem. Thanks for the great tutorial!
Give it another shot April! I use my Dremel on almost every project!
High Speed on The Cutting Wheels That's About it. Love My Dremel.
Appreciate the low speed tip magdad, that"s a great bit of advice.
@@wayneo7307and engraving bits of course!
This Chuck is digging that P&C ratchet. I live in the Northwest about 30 minutes from the location of the old P&C factory. i don't collect P&C tools, but I have over 400 of them including several of that style of ratchet. One of my rarest P&C tools is a NOS socket that is double stamped with both P&C and Proto mfg. names.
Check out my video of that ratchet:
ua-cam.com/video/JgWD7P2ctHw/v-deo.html
It took me a few years to figure out what a lot of the different bits that my Dremel came with were for. One in particular was the little bit that holds a buffing wheel.
It looks like a screw that was welded onto a shank upside down. I can remember thinking, wth is this for? It must be for making holes to drive a screw thru. Nope, a buffing wheel gets screwed onto it. 😃
It would be nice if the bit sets came with some pictures and instructions.
@@357magdad right??
If you've never done any metal polishing, professional machines use taper screw which is much quicker to swap out various mops and buffing wheels plus the edge wont catch on items being polished with leather washer reinforcing center of wheels and preventing them screwing on too far
Amateur 'prosumer' stuff is parallel spindle bolted together with washers holding mops and generally low power. (2hp is about minimum for professional polisher, 5hp more common in my limited experience)
The nut holding mops can and does get in the way quite often and will mark parts very badly.
I haven't had this multi-tool for very long and I'm discovering more and more uses for it. Thank's for the Tipps. They are very useful for me.
I'm glad my tips were helpful! I use my rotary tool on almost every project!
I was recently taking something apart and inevitably the phillip screw heads stripped out. These were tiny #1 screws. Rather than use an easy out I got the cutting wheel of the rotary tool and cut a slot across the head and used a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the screws. I just hope I can remember this hack. I'm an old fart.
I just used a thin cutting disc to clean up a tiny slotted screw in my latest video!
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I had a similar problem with a window winder that had anti theft screws in it. The window winder had to be replaced so I used the cutting wheel on the Drexel to make a slot for a flat edged screw driver.
Wonderful, especially the comments on the face shield and slow running. Remember, however, that on slow speeds the full wattage is almost certainly not available, as with drills.
Also, though not mentioned, the chuck (available as an accessory) carries a lot of energy. Probably a low speed tool. Also, I am looking at buying a Dremel drill stand for mine. It is not so much for drill stand as such, but as a way of holding the machine without clamping and stressing it.
You showed a right angled hand set. Not sure about hand sets as they rob power from the machine. The result could be overload??
You might enjoy UA-cam 'Clickspring'.
Many thanks to you and commenters.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome idea with the HS tubing! I recently bought double fluted grinding bits for cleaning up bad welds to get rid of lots of material in intricate places. I wish my welding skills were better and my MIG didn't spatter all over the place but you gotta do what you gotta do
Thanks!
When 357Magdad talks about rotary tools I listen. Thanks
Thanks Michael!
Thanks for this Magdad, a really useful summary of the techniques you've shown, I reckon the top tip is the heat shrink !
The only tip I can add is that I've also used Scotchbrite cut to size on the 2" yellow velcro pad ( like you had loaded in the right angle drive) it sticks reasonably well to the velcro , but can be a little tricky to remove after it wears down at the edges !
Thanks Andy! I've got to use that right angle attachment more!
Some really great tips. I’ve been using a Dremel for over fourth years. Learned something new.
Thanks for watching Rex!
Useful tips. I also use my B&D Dremel equivalent tool at slow speed. I will have to get a set of the SWPEET plastic wheels. I use the grinding wheels you show e.g. to cut HSS tool blanks. Sometimes they work and wear down without breaking, the smaller brown ones often break, likely to make hand causing a slight twist on the disc.
Dave.
Cutting with those thin cutting wheels is like playing Russian Roulette!
On the buffing wheels is the higher number grit coarse and the lower number grit finer? Many people put a different number with the various colors. Is the lower number finer and the higher number coarse? Thank you great information .
Higher number = finer "grit"
@@357magdad Thank you
Hello. Thanks for sharing your experience. I learned one important takeaway from you: Low Speed! Saludos from México 🇲🇽
Some times I wish my Dremel had an even lower speed!
I'm new to Dremels, but this thing has been great. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfPgcZ5_Cl0HDUKkMJAKde11YKQZVgMoR The variable speed is awesome and the cordless aspect makes it so easy to work with. I am constantly finding uses for it that make tasks easier. Recently I put in a new deadbolt on one of our doors. I knew I had to enlarge the hold where the deadbolt goes into the door frame. At first I thought I would have to get a big router and figure out how to use it for that, but then I rermembered we have the dremel. I was able to enlarge the hole almost as easy as if I was drawing with a pen. It's also great for grinding our dog's nails done and so many other household tasks.
I use my rotary tool on almost every project!
Wow, what have I been doing all this time. These are all great pro tips I haven't seen anyone else cover before, thanks.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad my tips and tricks were helpful!
There is a thing called "abrasive cleaning stick". They clean clogged abrasive and make it good again multiple times. Saves money and time, because using it is faster than replacing the sanding drum.
The drums don't clog, they wear out for me.
I have a small angle grinder with many attachments and it is doing its job well , like cutting the metal , cutting the stone , polishing and shaping the metal sheet . But it is dangerous, Dremel is doing all you can plus like router . So in my view you need both .
Thanks for watching!
Good info Magdad, We all appreciate it. You do know every time I now go to the bathroom, I will think of Chuck, Thanks lol
🤣
Great video magdad! You were tell how you like to cut out you own abrasive wheels. I have been doing that but I use a rivet to put those together. I don’t know if it’s any better or faster but my fat finger don’t have to fight that tiny screw. Also on the flat sanding disk I put 3 on at a time. They don’t rip off as easy. Anyway great video. Thank You for sharing!
Thanks Jack! The store bought ones are also riveted.
I like the Rivet Idea
Thx for the info and cutting down my learning curve. I'm just beginning my crafting journey.
I'm glad my video was helpful!
Dremel's work great... Nothing cleans the ears better than dremel's and Qtips on hi speed..lol.. MD thx for all the tips.. I had a nice Dremel at one time, but it disappeared.. my x-wife might be involved in it's disappearance.. MD take care my friend and God Bless...
Thanks Gary! There are so many inexpensive knock-off rotary tools on the market. You can almost buy three for the price of a genuine Dremel!
@@357magdad yeah I got one when my wife was doing stained glass.. it's a great little tool.. Take care MD...
As an alternative to those brown cutting discs which come with these sets, which are extremely brittle, you can get small metal discs which are diamond coated. These I have found extremely useful, especially for metal work.
I have not tried the metal discs yet.
Thanks for your tips and experiences using rotary tools and accessories. Appreciate your doing this video.
You're welcome Terry!
I find the buffing wheels are very good for polishing coins. I hadn't come across the super-fine 400 grit ones before..
You might like the home made super fine grey scotchbrite wheels.
@@357magdad Yeah, at one point I was getting through a lot of them, so it would make sense to use the home-made ones.
I see you restore a lot of tools, I do too, an old woodworker back about 40 years ago used to do this to recondition old rusty tools then put a clear coating on them and sell these to supplement his tiny retirement allowance. He showed me how to coat a tightly packed heavy cloth buffing wheel with an adhesive from Caswell then you rolled this compound on the wheel and let the glue dry. The compound was probably silicon carbide, emery or aluminium oxide in fine grits like 120-400. You could take an old rusty hammer or pair of channel locks and lay into this wheel pretty well and it would make the rusted item look like new in a few minutes or so. Must have heavy gloves on and personal protection gear on. When the buffing wheel glue wore off you can remove it all down to new cloth then recoat and roll on whatever grit abrasive you wanted.
Thanks for watching Bryan! That sounds like an interesting technique!
I will be buy the face mask and plastic cleaning wheels. Thanks for all you advice and experiences. I learn so much from your techniques.
Thanks! I like the quick adjust knob on that face shield. Let me know how you like those plastic bristle wheels!
@@357magdad Will do :-)
I bought a set of ear wax removal tools. The tools in the set with a round handle fit in a chuck and I use them at the lowest setting to stir model paints.
I had to look these up. I didn't know there was such a thing!
I agree with comment below about adding the heat shrink tubing to gather and concentrate and contain the bristle s, this made the video worth it all by itself, good job
Thanks for watching Bryan! I'm glad you found my tips and tricks helpful!
Great tips. I have a very old single speed Dremel that I bought as a kid. I had to buy a special Dremel rheostat plug in attachment to make it a variable speed.
Thanks Larry! I found a knock-off Dremel in the free pile last year that will probably replace mine if it dies.
Wow, I hadn't come across the pufball wheels before, they look quite good for delicate items
The puff ball wheels work great for polishing plastic. Amazon link in description.😉
About 'wire throwing' - you can easily make a see-through shield attachment from a reusable (sturdy) plastic drinking cup.
Or from a spraycan (protective) cap.
> Make a hole in the bottom.
Cut away half of the sides.
Orrrr... Alternatively....
You could try to hold it so you're not in the line of fire :)
. (Aka if it fails, the ceiling, walls, and work surface get sprayed)
. But I see you tend to aim it so everything from the work surface up can receive the full brunt...
Sooo - diy plastic shield it is! (:
The plastic abrasive bristle brushes have replaced the wire flinging wheels for most of my projects.
Really good tip.
Brilliant idea -will plastic cup. Used it on wounds and will use it in this manner
I use the top half of a 2 liter bottle with the cap for a shield. Pop a hole in the cap so it will just fit on your Dremel with the plastic ring off. Then screw the ring on and then the bottle part. If that makes sense?
Interesting idea! Like the "cone of shame" the vet gives your dog!
@@357magdad yeah kinda. LMFAO.
Good Video! My dremel was burned throug after a wile. Now i have a Foredom similar machine with flexible shaft and foot pedal and I absolutely love it! It has so much tractive power out of zero rpm and keeps rpm on low speed when burdened. There is lower speed possile with it and its very durable, cause of the big motor with long lasting brushes. No over heating problems and always a handy cold handpiece which takes tools up to 6mm without constantly change collets. If you once worked with one, you wont go back to dremel. To have variable speed with foot pedal i"ll miss never again. They are cheaper than dremel and have spare parts too for reasonable prices.
Thanks for watching! The Foredom kits look like they run about $350. Unfortunately that is way over my budget. Maybe when I get to 50,000 subscribers!
Great video! I use my Dremel quite often and I'm definitely going to try the heat shrink idea! Thanks!
Give it a try and let me know what you think!
I had one of those Li-Ion rechargeable Dremels, but I found that it kept cutting out when you put even a little bit of pressure on the work.
Mine has very little power. I only use it for polishing plastic. It was still a nice free pile find!
@@357magdad There are some new rechargeable models around now, which might be more powerful.
The flexible shaft is a must have accessory.
Makes doing fine work easier because you don't fight the weight and size of the motor.
Thanks for watching! I was never able to get comfortable using the flex shaft.
Great tips. I just tried the heat shrink tip last week and the worked quite well for me. I've heard people using super glue around the centre of the wire spitters, sound plausible but I didn't try it out personally yet.
I tried the super glue trick and didn't have success. The next time I'm mixing up epoxy I'll try to remember to glue up a wheel as a test.
Thanks for these neat tips Magdad! They are very helpful.
You're welcome John!
I really liked this video and hearing your recommendations on how to use the bits.
Thanks James!
Great tips! I like the Q tip idea. Scotch brite is one of my favorite abrasives to use. I need to make some of those little wheels, another great idea.
A viewer suggested those Harbor Freight wood handle swabs.
Great tips and advice Bud!! Thanks for the shout out!!☻
Thanks RoadKing!
That heat shrink tip is A1, auto subbed
I'm glad you found a tip you could use! Thanks for subscribing!
Abrasive buffing wheels made from scratcher pads...wow!! Thank you!
805RoadKing showed me that trick, and I had to pass it on!
i use a dremel 3000 electric my top tip, as ive worked my way up to a dremel ive had some cheap but reliable rotary tools one a parkside model i fit it snuggly into a custom made wooden frame that works as a Lathe also a black n decker i made a brilliant 2 inch belt sander from so many amazing things we can make from one.(getting a fordam in june)
I use my rotary tool on almost every project!
That's no joke Magdad! Had a cutoff wheel explode on me 3 weeks ago! Thank God I was wearing glasses but still cut cut on my cheek and forehead and a chunk actually struck in my scalp !
That's why I prefer a face shield!
Another cool, relaxed, informative video. Must get that old box of accessories out again....
Thanks John! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
I use an old sewing machine foot control for a speed control as it gives a much better control of speed. With this controller it allows an almost 0 RPM to full speed. They are usually available at a sewing machine repair shop for free or a few dollars.
Good idea!
the "free pile"?! where do i find this legendary pile?
We keep our eyes peeled for free piles while we're out at yard sales and on Facebook.
One tip is to always have a spare set of motor brushes so you can swap them out when needed. It isn't fun waiting on a set of brushes to continue a project!
Having spare brushes is a good idea! I found a rotary tool in the free pile last year that is my back-up for when my 20+ year old Dremel finally dies.
it is better to have 2 spare grinders
@@357magdad"Free pile" where?
Like those homemade scrubby wheels I really like my cheap small $ 20 rotary tool for polishing
Rotary tools have come way down in price and there are so many to choose from. It's gonna be tough to justify the cost of a new genuine Dremel.
I’ve just started using my rotary tool for wood carving. I have only used high speeds. After listening to you, I’ll try slowing the speeds down.
I don't have a lot of experience wood carving with my Dremel. I would think speed would vary with the bit size and how hard the wood is.
Thanks for sharing the Q-tip trick at the end.
I hope my tips and tricks help you with your projects!
Great video buddy. Can’t give you any more tips than you have mentioned already. Pretty comprehensive video.
Thanks Shed Man!
Great video !! I’ve been using Dremels incorrectly for years.They are very useful tools .
Thanks for watching Kevin! I use mine on almost every project!
Thank you so much
I would love to see how to polish electronics tools screens, they scratch easily at work, I want to restore some clarity.
Thanks for watching! I've had some good luck polishing plastic tool handles:
ua-cam.com/video/Or4vt-81YCw/v-deo.html
I've been wanting to purchase a similar tool. There are so many options out there, what brand & model would one recommend for mostly lighter work, like sanding and polishing. But will do some cutting of softer materials like wood and some softer metals like aluminum and the like?
I also noticed you reccomend low rpm settings in a lot of situations, but in some cases you didn't explain why. I assume you get better results or tool wear, but I'm a very curious one and l always need to know "why?" Sorry.
Check out your local Harbor Freight. They often have good coupon deals. Make sure you get one with variable speed. Wire wheels and sanding drums work better and last longer at low speed. Polishing should also be done at lower speed.
I HAVE USED AN OLD SEWING MACHINE FOOT TREADLE. I MAKE AN ELECTICAL BOX WITH AN DUPLEX OUTLET. I WIRE IN THE TREADLE BETWEEN THE WALL OUTLET AND MY BOX . I PLUG IN MY DREMEL TO MY NEW BOX AND SET MY TOOL AT THE SLOWEST SETTING. I USE THE TREADLE TO CONTROL MY TOOL SPEED. IT IS VERY GOOD FOR PLASTIC WORK.
THANKS FOR THE TIP!
I have the 300 model bought years ago love using I have a tidy up and when I need it couldn’t find in safe place I felt so uncomfortable not being to do job went h/w shop luckily they had Drexel 3000 on special offer with excessories kit for $139 ,I told shop keeper he said now you got this one you’ll find the other one.😂🤣
I hope you find your misplaced Dremel! It's good to have a spare!
Great video. Clear explantions and good dialog. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Robert!
There are three versions of those small "wire thrower" wheels, flat, wide cone and narrow cone. I find that the latter are the most effective ones at removing rust from tight and hard to reach spots, and when they wear down to a nub, what's left is effectively like what you got when you compressed a wide cone wheel with shrink wrap tubing. Instead of throwing these wheels out when they're mostly spent I reserve them for tougher rust spots like that which is encapsulated in shallow pits. Another nice thing about using them this way is that the remaining wires are too short to be thrown at you.
Give the heat shrink trick a try! 😉
When wire weels or regular (handheld) steel brushes get a bit 'frizzy', I tend to give the bristles a haircut.
A little less flex, a lot more strength for tough jobs.
(And in case of wire wheels - less momentum. Making the bristles less likely to fly out)
It's also how I convert old paint brushes to excellent cleaning brushes :)
@@iggysixx You're referring to full size ones you use on a drill or die grinder. I'm talking about the much smaller ones you use on a rotary tool. You don't need to trip those because they're self-trim pretty quickly.
Great tip on the use of a Dremel Tool I love the part Chuck size toilet paper tubes 🤣😆🤣😆good one ..... enjoy the day Mr Magdad it was nice to see Mr Chuck in the video
Thanks Roger!
i've had 2 dremels and both had bad switches. the first one i had i bought a replacement switch from dremel for and that went bad in no time. i vowed never to buy another dremel but inherited one and now that is not working because of a bad switch.
Thanks for watching! I've had my Dremel for 25+ years and it's still going strong! I guess they don't make them like they used to!
I run some thin epoxy around the inner part of my small wire wheels. It doesn't completely cure them of spitting wires, but it does cut it down by 90% or so as long as the wheel doesn't get too hot.
The heatshrink tubing on the brush is a pretty slick trick. I was trimming them down to get a similar, and probably worse result.
I've tried super glue, but the next time I'm mixing up epoxy, I'll try some on a couple wheels.
@@357magdad oooo im using this thank you!!!
This is one of the best explanations on the subject. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found the video helpful!
Very nice video I enjoyed it very much and learned a few things also GOD BLESS!!!!!!! ✌🏻from Ga.
Thanks for watching Danny!
If youre going slow might as well use a cordless drill...not as nice to hold but it works. I use a dremel with a diamond flat wheel to sharpen bits ..even carbide bits...does a great job ..even the cheap ones.
correction to above comment ...round wheels work well too.
Thanks for watching! I don't own a cordless drill!
Great video! I totally agree that "if you're not watching 805Roadking, you need to re-examine your life choices". He's the guy who put me on to your channel, and I'm glad he did!
Thanks Chris! RoadKing and Mike are good people!
Those Diamond Bits are great for getting thru tough metals and I've used them holes in glass and most recently to drill a small drain hole in a Ceramic Birdhouse..........I like the Flap Drums because they conform to some shapes better but they do cost more than the regular drum sanders.
BTW I'm putting in my request for Bombay Mahogany for that Stacked Leather Ball-Peen and maybe Blue the Steel.
I have one 80 flap drum bit. I've only used it a couple times. Maybe I'll ask Santa for a kit of them.
These tips from your experience are very useful. I definitely need to reduce my speed
I especially like the slow speed when using the sanding drums and when polishing plastic.
2:50 Have you tried gluing the base of the wires in place with some contact adhesive? I haven't done that yet, but we sometimes use those wire brushes at work and I've often thought they should come with the wire bristles glued into place.
I tried super glue with minimal success. The next time I'm mixing up epoxy I will try it on a couple.
@@357magdad in thinking JB weld of some type or a tiny bit of solder. Thanks for the other tips! Shrink wrap tubing is a great one
Wow, this was loaded with great tip, especially the DIY Scotchbrite tools! The 90 degree tool is very useful for getting the bits into places that would be uncomfortable with the standard configuration. High speed kills them quickly, so your general advice to keep the speed low is right on.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad my video was helpful!
Great video and some new ideas as well, I think my no.1 is the heat shrink tip so useable in a few situations. But now I’ve said it I am wondering if I was ‘fair’ to the others lol.
So low speed then, did I catch you right?
Bob
England
Thanks for watching Bob! I like to keep the speed low for wire wheels, drum sanding and polishing.
Curious if you have experience using any of the router attachment things for your dremel and if you have any tips regarding those? I've been trying to use mine to engrave some acrylic and am having just no luck at all
Thanks for watching! I have not used the router attachment.
Nice tutorial. Do you find that branded Dremel wire wheels spit wires any less than generic brands?
I'm too cheap to buy the Dremel wheels!
Do you ever want to use the slow speed?
Like I explained in the video, I use the slow speed for the wire wheels, plastic bristle wheels, buffing wheels, sanding drums and polishing.
Hello there I love that Dremel Tool how can you send it to me I do some artwork
Thanks for watching! I included Amazon links in the description.
Quick tip: Only for the DIY tool modification type folks though. Find a sewing machine peddle and wire it into your dremel plug. Suddenly any other option just isnt an air option. Nothing better than a pedel speed control. Makes all the difference beimg able to throttle your way out of a sticky situation instead of the dreaded bog/ chatter whirl that we all know to well. Give it a try let me know. Makes me wonder why dremel hasnt made this option a standard function on all their tools?
Thanks for the tip!
@@357magdad no problem
Very informative Magdad, must have missed this one when you put it out, glad I caught it 👍👍👍🇺🇸🇬🇧✌️
Thanks Phil! Glad you found it!
Thank you for showing us those tips and tricks!
You're welcome Michael!
Great tip video. Added your channel to my subscriptions.
Thank you for subscribing! I hope you enjoy my content.