📌3D Printer hotend won't heat up - Diagnosing - identify Fault - Replace Ceramic Heater Cartridge
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2017
- Problem - My CR-10 3D Printer hotend won't heat up, this is something you might come across occasionally, and it is easily diagnosed and fixed.
📌 Gearbest 12V 40W Ceramic Cartridge Heater 3D Printer Part ( 6 x 20mm ) bit.ly/2pWaAeo
There are only a few components that can stop the hotend from heating, Faulty Wiring, Mainboard, Thermister or Heater Cartridge.
Hotend Problem Solving Check List.
1. Check Wiring.
2. Use Heat Gun or Hair Dryer to Test Thermister.
3. Use Multi-metre for Continuity and Voltage Check.
4. Solder in new replacement part.
In this video I run through a simple check list for fault finding, and narrow down to which component is the cause of my CR-10S Hotend not heating up, and after determining what the fault actually is, I go about and replacing the Ceramic Heater Cartridge with a new one, and I do the final heat up test, and all is up and running again.
Moral of the story.
Carry Spares, you never know when you will need them.
📌 Checkout other videos from Garry Purcells UA-cam Channel: / garrypurcell - Навчання та стиль
Who would have knew that a 4 year old video helped me fix my printer. Thank you for the help!
Great to hear! 🙂
Using a heat gun to figure out if it is a connection or the actual got the that's bad is genius. Just made my life so much easier, thanks.
Glad I could put a smile on your face. 😀
Gary, great quick fix for the Hot End replacement. I just have a word of advice if you don't mind. I was a Radar Technician for almost 40 years and have done my fair share of Solder repairs. It's always best to stagger the wire cuts by about 1" to 1 and 1/2". The reason being, when you heat up the heat shrink with your heat gun, if there are any sharp wires where you joined the two wires together, they can easily come through the heat shrink and if that happens to both connections at the same time then you can create a short. If they are offset by a small distance, even if you have a small protrusion from a heat shrink tear, you should be safe and not have a short. As a further layer of protection, you could add a longer, and a little bigger diameter heat shrink, (Make sure you slip it over the wires before any soldering is done, and make sure the Soldering Iron does not heat up the Heat Shrink), to cover both sets of wires and shrink that sleeve to cover both wire connections. Thanks for the video Gary, knowledge shared is Gold for us all!!!
Thanks for your in-depth review on hoe to create a better solder joint than I made.
It will be handy for others to not make the same mistake I made.
@@GarryPurcell Hey Gary, you didn't make a mistake my friend, the suggestions that I made to you was just to make an already good repair just a little bit better). I worked on Radars in the Military, (Hawk Radars), that were Mobile so the repairs that we made had to go hundreds of miles being towed by a Duce and a half, and when we would get to where we were going, the Radar is supposed to fire up and work at the drop of a hat, every time, LOL. that's when you learn to improvise on repairs to try to make them as durable as possible. When I went into the Military in 1973, the Radars worked on tubes. Digital wasn't phased in until about 4 years later. Can you imagine bouncing a Radar down the road for hundreds of miles with hundreds of tubes in them??? There are some pretty good videos online showing the Hawk System firing Missiles. If you get a chance check them out. Later my Friend!!!
@@bobburchett8517 Those stingers sure beat my Cheap new year rockets display.
Fantastic video. Goes to show you don't need fancy editing, just good simple tools and knowledge does the trick. Thanks for your time and effort.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you SO MUCH! I have been looking for a video like this for over a month and I am so glad I found this! You definitely earned a subscriber.
Thanks, I know it took me some time initially to work out what was wrong, so I made this video to help others.
Gary, thanks for this. I attempted a complete hot end replacement on my Ender 3. Ended up with the thermistor stuck at room temp, and me scratching my head. But I've just tried your trick of heating the thermistor with a hot air gun, and it worked. So tomorrow I know to only mess about with the heater cartridge. Thanks again.
Glad I saved some valuable time diagnosing the problem.
Let me know how you go.
Thanks for the help! Your process helped me diagnose a loose wire on my hot-end.
Glad my Video saved you some time.😀
Great step by step tutorial, fantastic explanations have a good day Sir!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you very much, I have a similar problem with my printer, with the tips you provide I can now make a correct diagnosis and find the problem.
Glad I could help point you in the right direction.🙂
Awesome video! This was a huge help. We even have the same printer. It also showed up at the top of my search results which usually doesn't happen lol.
Great printer, and runs quite well considering their age.🙂
Thank you, after having struggled a few months with a printer not really doing as I'd like, after having changed hotend a few times and just getting more and more frustrated, I saw this video and just decided to try and *shove* the heater slightly deeper into the hotend and... it WORKED! I'm guessing movements and heating/cooling must've moved it over the last year or so. It'll definitely be something I'm looking out for in the future!
Great to hear!
AND.... a good tip for others who read this also. 🙂
You are the best.. Thank you... Hello from Greece!!
Hi from Melbourne, Australia.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Garry, very helpful.
Thanks for leaving a comment, its greatly appreciated.
Hey mate I tryed to measure does any voltage comes to wires on board yellow ones that goes for hotend, and there is 10V when its idle, when I try to heat it up it shows 0V
I received my prusa mk3 last weekend and after only a few prints, I ran into this problem. Thanks to your video I can verify that indeed, my heater cartrige was broken. I contacted prusa support and they sent me a new one which should arrive on thursday. Too bad I cannot use my new 3d printer, but good that prusa support got me a new one that hopefully will fix it.
Its always frustrating when your new printer develops a problem.😞
But its a good learning curve, and you now have some knowledge for future diagnostics.
Glad to hear you have a positive result from Prusa, and my video helped you.😃
Hi Garry, thanks for the information about HOW to diagnose, the order in which you did it, and WHY. Cheers, JAYTEE
Life is a learning curve, and its nice is someone has gone before and blazed a path to follow with markers along the way.
Copy that. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thanks dear... It saves my money , now i order just heating filament not full assembly. 😀
Glad I could help
As a fresh dingus when it comes to 3D printing, i were scared starting to do anything with the printer, but after changing the printerhead i felt a little more comfortable.
So thanks to your video, i am now going to take it apart and change that part as well since every troubleshooting i've done pretty much say it's the heating tube.
Also, since it's 5 years since you put it out, here in Norway that part now cost 10 dollars, not an aweful price, but price certainly jumped ^_^
Wow, the heater cartridge that's gone up heaps. 💰
@@GarryPurcell or it can just be that cause i live in Norway, where everything is expensive compared to other countries.
Anyway, i hope the cartridge will solve my issue as that's what everything is pointing to.
practical and well described steps. professional indeed. thanks.
Glad my video was helpful!
thx a lot for this video!!! i found the problme with my KP3 kingroom. thx !!1 great video
Glad it helped!
When you’re testing for resistance on the heated cartridge wires, are you cutting the wires so you are checking continuity across the mainboard end or the cartridge end?
Or are you just poking the multimeter leads passed the insulation into both wires?
Helpful video. I don't have a multimeter so I just did the hairdryer thermistor test (thermistor still works),, then wired up a new heater cartridge. It heats up like normal so thankfully the board isn't shorted.
Glad you found my video useful and saved yourself a few dollars.🙂
very interesting video, would you recomend something similar for printers that will preheat to the ascribed temp to then immediately turn off when the print starts?
Well done Sir simply brilliant Thank you
You are very welcome
nice well, that was my problem. Nice video, strong hug
Glad my video helped you.🙂
Quick question: I assume + and - doesn't matter with the cartridge wire? I need to replace one on my Maker Select Plus.
Correct, polarity makes no difference to the heating cartridge.
nice video thanks :) just a couple of tips to get the heater out easier next time when you heat the block you can just pull it out after removing grub screws , also to make it less chance of a short stagger the cuts on the wire you are joining :)
Thanks Peter
Very good advice if I need to do this next time. 🙂
ok just out of curiosity my wires broke on my heating element and i was checking the resistance but the wires were broken when i found that problem i can only get the resistance from the broken parts in the element makes sense the thing is that they are reading 15 ohms but i also know that the length of the wire adds resistance so if im reading 15 ohms at the base were the terminals stick out of the element would it be reading an accurate resistance or do i have to measure the ohms with the wiring attached i am trying to replace my hotend put i am unsure if its a 12v hot end or a 24v hot end and i dont want to order the wrong part any advice is appreciated.... or do i just read the voltage straight out of the motherboard
My suggestion is to look up your actual printer online, and go to the specifications to see what hotend it has.
Nice meter!
Sure is!
Very helpful video. I have to replace mine as well as the thermistor which pulled out. Any thoughts on where that belongs and if the same process can be used?
The Thermistor is next to the Heater Cartridge, and is very easy to replace. So you can do both at the same time.
@@GarryPurcell Thanks, I understand that, though I don't see how it actually connects to anything on mine. I'm wondering if I've lost a piece or something.
@@ga1205 The Thermistor simply looks like two wires joined together in a very small diode.
My Ender 3 hotend heats up but doesn't go beyond 163 deg. What could be the problem? Any suggestions will be a great help. Thanks!
There are only a few components that can stop the hotend from heating, Faulty Wiring, Mainboard, Thermister or Heater Cartridge.
I personally would replace both the thermister and heater cartridge, if you have already checked the wiring, and found no broken wires.
Hi there, Great video! Will any 100k heater cartridge work as like as it's the correct voltage? Or do I have to get from the manufacturer? Also will soldering them together mess with anything like voltage or resistance? Will the temperatures be off? Thanks!
I use generic heater cartridge's, without any problems.
As long as the cartridge is the same dimension as the one you take out, you should be OK
P.S. Soldering the wires is OK.
How do I take care of an extruder that does not heat up with a Flashforge Adventurer 3 3d printer?
Fist step would be to check the connections are a tight fit
Then check to see the wires are not broken.
Third would be replace the hotend cartridge and thermistor at the same time.
So you just touch the heater cartridge? How do you test if it is the board? I changed the heater out twice
Check to see if you have continuity in the heater wires.
i thought all creality ender 3d printers were 24V? or does it drop that voltage down to 12V for the hot end?
The Cr-10, CR-10S and the Mini I own all use 12v.
Hope that helps
@@GarryPurcell 12V bud
Would this work for a thermistor? My nozzle reads -14 degrees. I only assume it's the thermistor but do intend on doing this to the cartridge like you did.
Test the thermistor with a hair dryer, and see if the temperature reading goes up.
@@GarryPurcell I tried this method and it worked! Thanks a ton. I'll be trying the hairdryer out later today to be sure its all good but as of now the printer seems to be fine
Just did this to diagnose a fault on a brand new Enter 3D v2. Element was open circuit. Brand new out of the box and ran for an hour.
That's not a good start, but at least you found the fault and your printer, and you will be up and running soon.
How can i find a long enough heater cartridge for a ender 3 pro
The AliExpress Official Creality site would be a place I'd look first.
Great video Garry.
I am trying to diagnose a similar problem with my ender 5 Pro's hot bed not heating up. I was able to confirm that the system software reads the temp from the hot bed when I use a blow dryer.
I have a multimeter, and I measured the red/black wires soldered to the hotbed (while trying to preheat) and found 0 ohms resistance, and 0 volts DC.
I also measured the bed thermistor pins (where they connect to the 2 white bed wires) for resistance/DC voltage and read 0. Though since the system is reading the temp from the thermistor I think these wires should be fine, right? At this point you can probably tell I don't fully know what I'm doing :)
I am curious what further steps I can take to diagnose the problem? It seems like it might go back to the board? I'm reluctant to open that up until I know what to do.
We had to take a drill to one of the bearings on the machine to remove a bit of allen wrench that snapped off in a screw (nightmare. terrible wrench). I am assuming the vibration caused some sort of damage to the circuitry, despite it being pretty far away from the drill site :/
Thanks for your time reading this comment if you get to it. I can already see you get many questions. I've been researching this for hours but only can find scraps of information about it, and I lack the general knowledge to solve the problem intuitively (for now). Your video was the closest I got to a step-by-step troubleshoot of my own issue.
I'd suggest the heater cartridge might still be at fault.
@@GarryPurcell Is that the two white wires running into the center of the bed? The hotend heats fine of course
If the hot-end does not show temperature increase with use of a hairdryer, what would be the likely cause...??
Most likely cause is that the Glass Sealed Thermistor is faulty.
Isn't it generally a bad idea to solder heating element wires of any kind due to the fact that they heat up considerably? This is why they are insulated at all, because they get hot. I think it would be better to replace the whole cable than rely on a solder connection on a wire harness that sees a lot of movement (mechanical strain) and heat. Any thoughts on this?
1. Your refering to soldering high current connectors. (Mechanical connection is better in this instance)
Any small guage wire being too thin to carry the designated current, will cause them to overheat.
2. Stress Fracture of the hotend wires is something that the CR-10 needs to address.
@@GarryPurcell thanks very much for the clarification.
Can you please show in detail how, where and what to measure with the multi meter
You check continuity to determine if the wire is broken.
Thx 👍
Thanks for commenting
If you need any help, just let me know.
Cut the leads so they are offset, so the joints for each lead are a different length, this means that you dont need to worry about the shrinkwrap becomming degraded and allowing a short.
Great idea, thank you for sharing.🙂
This isn't too common is it? I'm ordering a CR-10 during the Black Friday/ cyber monday sale this week. Would the CR-10s be worth the extra monies?
A Heater Cartridge can burn out in any printer, they are very easy to fix.
One way to prolong the life of a cartridge is to always use the control panel cool down procedure when the print has finished, and the nozzle is still hot, rather than simply turning the switch off at the wall.
You are more likely to damage the Thermister with a print runaway nozzle blockage, when removing the blob of plastic from around the hotend nozzle.
I highly recommend you keep a few spares on hand, you may, or may not ever need them, but if you do need one you don't have, you will be in for a long wait for a replacement part then costs only a few dollars, and you can't print without it.
Oooops forgot to answer your second question.
I have the CR-10S and I'm very happy with its overall performance.
As to which you should get, that is really up tp you.
If you can afford the better CR-10S, then I would say get it.
You can of cause always buy the CR-10 Standard, and upgrade later, BUT.... it will cost you more to do it that way in the long run.
Hi, this video really helped me and my hot end will heat up again after replacing the cartridge. However, the temperature wont settle on the one one I’ve chosen it keeps going higher and lower but not settling in the middle on the temperature I’ve chosen. Can you help me please?
Did you also change the thermistor for your printer?
It could be faulty.
Check wires for breakages.
Running a PID auto tune should help with this as well.
Sam, I just repaired my printer for Temperature problems. What I found was a wire not soldered very good on the round 8 Pin connector that connects to the control box. Hope this helps someone out there.
garry can you provide the link to the part you bought as I have a 10s and wouldn't mind getting the same part you bought. cheers, Barry.
These are very cheap AU$1.74 with free shipping.
📌 Gearbest 12V 40W Ceramic Cartridge Heater 3D Printer Part ( 6 x 20mm )
goo.gl/toJrco
thanks mate, i just ordered some of them. thanks Barry
These things are so cheap you would think Creality would provide a spare in the kit.
P.S. I hope you never need to use the spare.
I've got a problem where it would heat sometimes and would not heat sometimes. Like, when it comes to low Z axis (when starting of a print) It will just start dropping.
Sounds like you have a broken wire to the heater cartridge.
@@GarryPurcell I recently found out the problem. In my Anycubic I3 MEGA, the green connector that you connect it to the hotend assembly, one purple wire is close to breaking due to excessive bending of the wire. If you are on instagram, please message me so I can send you photos of it and if you are willing to you can help me. My insta ID is @rag_.26
@@raghavgarg6909I'm not on Instagram, If you go to my Video Channel's About Page, you will find my Email address.
Hi my ender 3 pro nozzle wont heat up it just says -14 as temprature what should I do ?
Have you replaced the heater cartridge?
-14 means there is no thermistor connected. must be a broken cable or your thermistor has disconnected
Had an issue where it doesn't actually heat up all the way and struggles to reach 240C
So its fixed now?
Quick question: what if the temperature just keep on raising?? what is the problem then??
I't sounds like it would be a faulty thermistor. (its located on the the hotend next to the heater cartridge.)
A thermistor looks like a small blob of glass on the end of two wires.
@@GarryPurcell I have a similar problem and ended up replacing the full heating block, thermistor and cartridge this evening, went to test, and temp came up fine. On running filament, I ended up with one nasty smoke show and eventually the sensor threw an error code. I'm a competent wire splicer, but I was led to believe that wiring on the thermistor was not biased to positive/negative? In my case I would have used the parts as is (which was the point initially) but the connectors were the wrong sort so I swapped them out for another set. I'll take the multimeter to it over the weekend, but in the event you see this, was I led astray on the wiring?
If something doesn't break, I have nothing to fix. After all, this *is/can be* a hobby.
😀👍
True, and I agree with you.
very helpful, thanks, but why cut and solder rather than soldering new lead all the way through on to the connector?
Hi Chris
The thermistor wires are the limitation.
If you can desolder inside the thermistor canister without damaging it, then resolder direct it should work the way you want.
BUT.... it's far easier to simply solder the new thermistor canister to existing cabling.😉
Thanks, I bought 5 new heaters and 5 new thermostats as the nozzle would not heat over 140 or so and once apart decided to replace both rather than just terminator. All you tube say to cut and solder as you did but I sent the leads back to the end that plugs into the box and soldered the new leads on to the connectors where old leads came off so no joins mid way
@@cmhes1
As long as it works OK for you.
Another way is to solder a JST plug into the cable, and the thermistor.
Are the wires polarity sensitive?
I don't thinks so.
a failed print left my nozzle encased in plastic. I have a replacement. I have followed the red wires back to the mainboard. My question is does it matter how the two red wires go into the green port as in the - or + orientation?
I would suggest you mark your wires before cutting them, so you know what order to re-solder them.
P.S. You can salvage your plastic encased printer nozzel. (while its still connected to the printer)
Raise the hotend up so you get clear physical access to it.
Heat up the hotend higher than normal, only by a few degrees, then simply pull the plastic blob off, it should come off quite easily. (you may need pliers if its really thickly encrusted)
@@GarryPurcell thanks, there is no resoldering to the main board, in untightening of two screws pull the red wires out and place the new ones. Problem is both red wires are identical and cant find anything that indicates which red wire goes in it which terminal that supplies power to heater cartridge fire the nozzle
@@therizinosaurus214
I suggest you look up "how to check polarity with a multimeter".
I don't personally have a video showing this proceedure, but there are some good ones available on UA-cam to help you out.
@@GarryPurcell thanks, I will look into it
My anycubic Mega Pro hot end doesn’t heat up, I need help!!!
Good Luck for tomorrow.
P.S. If your repairing a wall for the first time, you might like this video as well.
ua-cam.com/video/JmcR9TW4mM0/v-deo.html
By watching both, you will get a better understanding as to how easy it is to DIY.
My New ender 3 V2 damage nozzle heater, ı replace it and than damage the new heater too. I read 24v in the voltmeter when the heater is running. Every thing seems good . Whats wrong ? Please help me ?
Have you tested the Thermistor to see if its working?
@@GarryPurcell yes, test with hair dryer it goes up
@@GarryPurcell and it shows room temperature when I start the printer
I'm not familiar with the Ender 3 v2.
Does it have a plug setup for fast cartridge replacement, or do you need to solder the wires together?
I get readings when I try resistance test, and I don't get any voltage when I try to heat it up 0V... Are You sure that mb is problem?
If no voltage is showing at the cartridge (when power is turned on).
First make sure there are no broken wires, (do a full continuity test)
Second make sure everything is correctly plugged in.
If you still have no voltage at the cartridge, then definitely take a look at the main board.
Garry Purcell hey mate I checked cartridge it's fine, they said it's hotend so they sent me a brand new one and problem remains, it actually heated up again and then dropped to room temp in the midlle of a print...
Thanks for the easy to follow video. A week of googling has brought me here and I'm not sure if this will help my issue or not so before I start taking stuff apart: my Ender-3 V2 consistently heats up to 10 degrees lower than what it's set to. If I set the hotend to 200℉ it will only heat up to 190℉. If set to 210℉ it heats up to 200℉. If set to 215℉ it will go to 205℉ and so on and so forth. Any temp you come up with it will only heat up to 10 degrees lower. This is a very consistent thing, however every now and then it will actually reach temp and I could print. That happened for a bit where I was eventually able to print and now if it happens to get to that point it possibly prints about half the brim before the temp drops too low and the machine gives me an error message. Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!!
It certainly won't hurt trying a new heater cartridge.
Thanks @@GarryPurcell! I purchased new heater cartridges, thermistors and kapton tape yesterday. Hopefully this gets it resolved.
can you replace a 40w heating element with a 50w element?
I'm not sure what your asking?
@@GarryPurcell i corrected it 40w with a 50w
I'm stuck. Thermistor works ok, temp is stuck at 26. Wires look ok, nothing loose. Replace heat cartridge, still no heat. It's hard to tell what exactly you're testing with the multimeter and where you're attaching the probes. I'm a noob and don't know how to use a multimeter, or what to do with the info it tells me. :(
I was testing continuity with the multimeter. (Making sure that the heater cartridge wire is not broken).
The thermistor looks like a small glass bead with two wires attached.
Test it with a heat source, (a hair dryer will do), if it won't register higher than 26, replace it.
@@GarryPurcell if I knew how to test continuity I would've seen one of the heater leads was disconnected. Ended up coming loose in the 8 pin aviator connector.
@@xpinchx At least you found the problem ,and are wiser for it.
What happens if all is done, and you replace the cartridge and it still won't heat up, it just sits at -14 degrees.
Did you check continuity for the wires with a multi meter?
@@GarryPurcell Yes, I did that on all of them, they are all working correctly, I am leaning toward replacement of the motherboard. Unless, I am missing something. These units are not rocket science, so I diagnose to the sub assembly, then to the main board is what I am coming up with. I used the hair dryer, nothing happened. I am at a loss. Sad thing is this unit has spent more downtime than up time. I made a purchase of an anycubic I3 Mega, and the Ender 3. So far my Anycubic has been doing well, had a little issue with the bed, but after getting that sorted out, it has been doing well.
My ender however is different story. I don't mine tinkering with it, because when it is working, it prints probably better than my anycubic.
What can damage the heater?
Work hardening vibration on the wires connecting the heater cartridge.
cool
Thanks
Glad you liked my video.🙂
This is kinds off topic to the video, but this was the only one that I could find sorta relating to my problem. So I have one of those cheap CTC DIY printers and it keeps saying "ERR MAXTEMP BED" since it is a clone of the prusa I thought I could use what they said and apply it to my printer. That obviously did not work, and now I have all the settings and configuration in place, but I still can't print because my heat bed is at 358 degrees even though I don't feel anything
Is there any current going to the Bed?
@@GarryPurcell I think so. I am a total noob at 3d printing, but I am sure that it is connected to the motherboard
@@tundeogunleye3157 Can you test it with a Multimeter, to make sure there is current flowing to the Bed?
@@GarryPurcell Ok
@@GarryPurcell problem is I don't have one
Crap... I just got a CR-10 mini and I think I boned it. Thought I had the aircraft plug keyed right, but when I turned it on the screen worked for a second and then froze up. So I turned it off & on a couple of times, then noticed that the nozzle was starting to smoke. So I unplugged it, and yeah I had it wrong. Plugged it back in and the screen/controls all work fine, but the nozzle temp said _over 300_ then fell down to 265 and now it's stuck there. Nozzle is cold, still says 265. Tried changing the temp in the menu, tried a test print, nozzle doesn't seem to heat up at all anymore. (Luckily I already had some Cap tube on hand to replace the burnt PTFE)
I have a spare (slightly used) cartridge from my i3 Mega, but hopefully that does it and it's not the mainboard. It literally just arrived yesterday so I could probably get some help from Creality, but I wouldn't mind just upgrading a couple things right off the bat either... and I was the one who boned it.
I'm about to pull out the multimeter and try the cartridge I have, so we'll see how it goes. if it's not the that, I might end up having to upgrade the mainboard and hot end a little ahead of schedule...
Sorry to hear about your misfortune.
It might simply be the hotend heater cartridge, which are cheap to buy, and easy to replace.
Fingers crossed for you.
@@GarryPurcell Welp... the spare thermistor & cartridge I had didn't work.
I'm wondering if I need to reflash the firmware/tune the PIDs or something.... somebody on reddit mentioned that Marlin might have a temp limit that was triggered.
Probably should start checking the mainboard too though. Not reading any voltage on the hot end wires...
@@TheDrewkeri have similar problem, check the voltage of the 2 wires on the heater cartridge when the printer is set to preheat hotend... if the temp is low then its a short on the board, anyways did u get through ?
Man I did all that and I STILL can't get any heat. I could put on third cartridge, but it seems like it would be a waste. Hmmmm. The funny thing is it was printing perfectly for days on end, and suddenly it just quit in the middle of a print. UPDATE: Well after taking pliars and giving an extra squeeze to the connectors that are under the high temperature insulation on the new cartridge, I'm finally getting heat again. Though I'm not sure why the previous cartridge suddenly failed after weeks of functioning perfectly. Kind of a mystery.
Good to know, it was a connection issue, and you got it sorted out.
Around 1:31 it would have been nice to see where your probes were instead of looking at a meter. My Hot-end heats up but after 5 minutes or so the filament gets plugged by the nozzle and stops feeding. I'm thinking it may be the Heater Cartridge and/or the Thermistor. I'm praying I don't have to go into the main board. I'll buy a new printer first.
The probe is on the positive and negative wires leading to the hotend.
Check the temperature shown in your LED display settings, this will indicate if the hotend is holding temp, if it drops to nearly zero, then you have a failed thermistor.
It sounds more like you are feeding too much filament to the hotend. (Hence the nozzle blockage)
I'd first reduce the feed rate by 5% and test to see if you are still having that feed problem you mentioned.
@@GarryPurcell wow! Thanks. This is the first time I heard of this. This started happening a week or 2 ago with the original Tornado hot-end. I wound up buying the Micro Swiss hot end and had the same problem. At the risk of sounding stupid, where and how would I change the feed rate. I use S3D. Would that be the extrusion multiplier? My nozzle is .4 and the extrusion multiplier is at 90. I don't ever remember touching that. Maybe I don't need a new Heater Cartridge and Thermistor. thanks again
I don't own or use Simplify 3D, so I'm unable to answer 100%.
I personally use Cura v4.00, and you will find that setting under "Flow", so I would guess S3D would have a similar setting.
@@GarryPurcell Okay thanks. I appreciate the help
@@GarryPurcell Hi Gary. My new Heater Cartridge and Thermistor arrived. Following your video I stripped a bit of wire off the cartridge and did the ohms test and there was a reading. Then I put my meter on DC and heated up the cartridge to 100c and got a failed message on my control box screen 'heating failed please reset'. Now when U did these tests I had the cartridge and thermistor out of the hot end.
I'm going to solder on the new items and see what happens. Hopefully that will correct the situation.
UPDATE: Everything's back together and running a short print job, about 2 hours. Thanks for your help Gary. Tons of thumbs-up for you
Nice and clear demo of the whole process. Thanks. I've seen other cases where the problem wasn't the element itself, but where the wire is crimped to the element Wire snaps at the termination point. Worth checking (eg: ua-cam.com/video/MMVGsPNepmY/v-deo.html)
(I like the old Dick Smith multimeter, BTW.. I used to live around the corner when his first store opened at N. Sydney... around 1986(?))
Hi Bernie
Taking your time and diagnosing the fault correctly, saves a lot of time.
Now were both showing our real ages, your reference to the Dick Smith Multi-meter was a dead giveaway. haha
I have a problem. I have been looking all over the internet for a full week now and can't figure this out. Any help from anyone would be appreciated. I am new to 3D printing but have some basic electronics understanding.
Simply put... my hot end won't heat passed 106 and reads around 68 at room temp. But the thermistor reads appropriate ohm values according to this table: www.bapihvac.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Thermistor_100K.pdf
I have a CR-10 and I decided to update to TH3D firmware. I felt uncomfortable doing it because I have limited experience but I wanted to get it out of the way so that I could move on to bigger and better things. Well, I am not sure but while doing it I may have connected the hot end cable incorrectly. I am honestly not sure. The connection is difficult to see because of the short cables. Anyways, if I did incorrectly connect it could that be the cause of my hot end not reading correctly and then failing to heat? The short answer of course is yes. But I need a real advice. Is there something in the firmware that I should look at? I understand the basics of the firmware but it is of course a lengthy process to read every last part. Or could it be something like a messed up voltage regulator, power supply or main board?
Any constructive help is appreciated. I know that I may have possibly messed up but I need help. Thanks
Hi Jay
Sorry, I have no knowledge of the TH3D firmware settings.
I would suggest you goto www.th3dstudio.com/
And ask them direct, as they are the devlopers of the firmware your using.
my printer says the temperature is 66°C... but it's just cold, the hotend doesn't heat... I used the heatgun, I can rise the temperature, but I guess the thermister is damaged and maybe the heater too.
I'd say you have a heater cartridge problem.
However, the cost of replacing both the heater cartridge and thermistor, at the same time, is minimal.
@@GarryPurcell do you know what the fun part was... it had still the same problem... and now I know why.. it's because of the software, I used an earlier version of tiny machines, because I had problems with my bltouch, after somebody sayed to me I have to put for the new software the plug from Z- to Z+ after that the new software worked... and this 65°C bullshit was gone.. now the temperature is 22°C.. room temperature xD I destroyed the heater and the thermista to change the cables quickly ^^^^^and I guess they were never damaged ^^' daaaammmnnnnn... xD
My Geeetech a30t is brand new hotend isn't heating haven't even done the 1st print wtf getting a refund on this pile of crap
I don't own a Geeetech, but the principle is the same for all hotends.
1. The first thing to check is that the wiring is correct, and fully plugged in.
2. I assume the controller has a preheat setting, so test that to see if any heat is applied to the hotend.
3. Next would be the method I use in my video.
If all the above fail, as you have already indicated, contact your supplier.
Holly crap, it's a dick smith brand, that's got to be atleast what 1985 around that!
As they say....
They don't make them like they used to.
@@GarryPurcell so true that, I remember having old Dick Smith branded remote control cars lol
@@shartslaw322The philosophy today is if the battery is dead, you need a new device haha.
That's not a multimeter, it's a WW2 Geiger counter ;) Lol
It's around 50 years Old, give or take.
AND... I don't need batteries, to make it work for most tests.😉
@@GarryPurcell That's a good selling point. Well if it works it works. I'm a fan of analogue myself. I prefer the microwaves which have a dial and a bell to the digital ones. Simplicity is the secret to a happy life.
Simplicity and made to last, go hand in hand.😉
@@GarryPurcell That must be why I'm still around then ;)
@@ArcanePath360 Haha😂
funny how these technical guys dont ever seem to be able to frame a shot with a camera
To perfectly frame a shot, you need to employ a dedicated cameraman, and I'm not that rich.😀
So I do my best to pass on my knowledge with what I've got on hand.😉
Oh you need a camera man to frame a shot? Wow I had no idea. So how does almost everyone on the planet take photos with only one person....?
Nathan
When you are concentrating on what has to be done in front of you, and have a camera sitting on a tripod with zoom applied, even the slightest movement will cause the shot to go out of frame. (My camera has a 60x zoom)
P.S. I do take constructive criticism, and listen to it. (It helps me improve my video skills)
But not sarcasm.😉
Life is too short to get upset.😉
I understand that everyone has an expectation as to what is acceptable, and what is not when it comes to what they find free on UA-cam.
Unfortunately, sometimes you only get one shot at it and cannot re-shoot the footage, if it doesn't come out the way we would like it.