WHY you NEED TO DRY your FILAMENTS!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Let's me show you how you dry your 3D printing filaments and what the effect on printing quality and strength is.
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This is the most german channel in the world! All those charts, measurements and data gathering is awesome!! Thanks very much
dome dom all except the state of the nozzle! For God's sake Stefan clean your nozzle, you're triggering my ocd 😂
And I think Stefan's MK2 used to have a silicone sock. That Kapton tape patch in the middle of the print bed also triggers my OCD. Is it still there? ;)
Nope, finally changed my PEI quite a while back ;-)
Sorry, that was after a dirty print. Usually I try to keep my nozzles clean ;-)
Lol people
I spent 3 days trying to fix my printer then I realized the filament was moist. I switched filaments and it worked great again.
You "released" or you "realised"? :)
Oh good catch. I updated it.
Did u ever dry out the moist roll??
@@elfpimp1 moist....
@@SangheiliSpecOp lol...
I'd like to see the same tests with PLA.
Me too.
Me too! I almost exclusively print PLA and have had no troubles so far, but now my printer is in a basement that might be somewhat more humid than my room. Girlfriend complained about the noise.
I got my first 3D printer about 11 months ago. Prints came out beautifully, and I was quite happy. I was using PLA. All winter, with low humidity, I just left the spools out when convenient, and in one-gallon zip lock bags otherwise. As spring came and the humidity went up, I started getting problems similar to the ones shown here. It took me a while to figure out what was happening (remember this was my 1st 3D printer!)
me too!
Me too. Mostly the influence on annealing, shrinkage and mechanical properties, before and after annealing
Thank you so much for taking the time to add proper subtitles and not relying on auto generated
This worked so well for me! I did a modification like how you did for yours and I'm surprised it really worked! Did about 8 or 9 hours of dehydrating and my prints are looking significantly better! I thought I'd have to throw out my material and buy new ones, so I'm so glad I came across this video. Thank you!
I truly appreciate your scientific approach and your succinct explanations. You provide a great service with excellent information.
Bartgalok Hulugu Agreed- this video is a graduate level thesis for a phd
This is so freaking informative. Thanks for the extreme thoroughness. I'm going to take drying my filament a lot more seriously now.
I just bought my first 3d printer and learned the hard way. I destroyed the extruder by running a print all night and not knowing the filament was moist. $80 later for a new extruder. Thanks for this video. I’ll be making a humidifier box for my filaments
Another $80 later: "...uh, I meant de-humidifier box..."
Thank you for this great channel! I watch Angus and Joel as well, and they make great videos, but your scientific approach really adds value, and as I design mostly functional parts, the tests you perform are very useful. Danke sehr!
This is great info.As a VERY new 3D printing nerd, I had no idea. I will store my filament in a bin with that absorbent stuff.
Another truly informative and useful video from a channel that has become essential viewing for those of us designing and printing functional parts. As a bonus, the beautifully done videography, video editing, and graphics make the videos a pleasure to watch.
Thanks mate!
25 watt dehumidifier on amazon $20
100 quart storage bin at local big box store $10
25 watt reptile or seedling heating pad on amazon $10
silica gel indicator on amazon $15
It won't dry your filament in a few hours. But I keep all my rolls in that $55 bin and they get dry in a week or two. I don't burn thru filament like crazy, I could see needing a specialized box that only fits one roll if I imminently needed dry filament. Silica gel helps in case the power goes out and you haven't emptied the dehu tank and it's nice to not have to recharge the beads in the microwave so often.
I like to use a vacuum chamber (it's just an aluminium stock pot) and a hot plate...just space the spools off the bottom of the chamber with insulation and let everything heat soak up to around 150f, then pull vacuum for an hour or two. It comes out nice and dry
Watched your infill pattern/percentage strength video, and now this one. It is great to see not just advice, but practical experimentation to demonstrate the suitability of that advice. Thank you for taking the time to log your results, plotting them in a meaningful way, and then sharing them with us.
Hey Stefan, I also noticed humidity affects the surface finish of PLA a massive amount especially when "ironing" a top flat surface. In the summertime where humidity can reach 60%+ in my place the surface finish from "ironing" is very poor. In the wintertime where humidity is currently 34% in my place the surface finish from "ironing" comes out great. Do you have any data on controlling the storage environment of PLA to improve the surface finish for "ironing"?
It is so funny to see the Kerbschlagbiegeversuch (the pendulum thingy) in a UA-camvideo. I needed to perform it during my studies "Materialwissenschaften" and hated it. However, in this context, I love to see these experiments and the results actually mean sth. to me, eventually.
I just tape the box that the spool comes in, poke a hole and tape the sides shut leaving the desiccant in the box. Simple and easy, but i'm only using PLA and am a newb.
I've heard that if the spool is not pefroated the spool won't allow the air the flow to dry the filament
As someone that has never dried my filament, and have had "no" problems.....today I tried drying it and.......... DRY YOUR FILAMENT
Please do one of these analyses on ABS. There are many in the 3d printing community who believe that somehow only nylon and PC absorb moisture and ABS is immune - prove them wrong!
ABS certainly does absorb moisture, but it does not undergo hydrolysis.
I would like to see the same tests on ABS and PLA.
@@KoochDawg hydrolysis will affect the material itself, but any wet material will get bubbles.
I can prove this right now. New abs spool I bought 1.5 year ago is currently bubbling in my CR10
It seems I may have found why my prints suck lately. The outer wall is fine, the brim is fine but the top layers are like spaghetti with whispy bits of hair sticking out and bubbles in. I tried everything on the printer with the nozzle temp and found that it got better only when I turned the cooling fan almost off, running it hot and slow. I think I may be cooking the moisture out while it's printing but it's still bad. Only happens with the black PLA which I've had for years.
Thanks
Good to see this covered for a material like PETG. I store even PLA in dry boxes when possible and it helps with quality.
Interestingly, my PLA+ Spool from DasFilament had some water, thats why I watched this video. When I was finished watching the video, I looked at the printer again and noticed that the bubbles were gone. So it seems only the outer layers of the spool were contaminated. I just got myself a box to build a filament box with attached feed lines, just because.
here in Yucatan Mexico, is always summer
Man this is exactly what is happening to me. Time to get drying!
Subbed - if this sorts my filament issues, you sir.. are a gentleman.
Thanks for doing this testing. I always thought that my PETG had moisture in it. Now I definitely know I do, and how to correct it. Your videos are really well done and the research you put into them is superb. Thanks again!
I haven bothered to dry my filaments be cause I live in a desert and the average humidity is less than 20%. I think Ill do an experiment now to see if drying makes a noticeable difference.
you will barely be able to dry it less than 20% even in your area lol
Perfect place for 3D printing ;-)
@@CNCKitchen I wonder if perfect place for 3D printing also has zero gravity and a vacuum., besides being hot and dry.
I guess you could say this video took 2 years to make (including the filament incubation hahaha) amaziingg :D
Well. It would be great if you could test PLA in the same manner.
Or maybe just 3 conditions. As I have the feeling my spools could have absorbed some moisture but I can't quite make it out.
Ne also wäre klasse. ABS wäre aus Prinzip auch interessant wenn man mal Zahlen hätte😀
I made a pressure seal plate, apparently the filament was wet, air at 40 psi goes through the plastic, bought a Sunlu filament dryer.
You have the best videos. Thanks
Was getting ready to throw out a roll of ABS, saw the exact issues you spelled out: stringing, snapping sounds, steam, bubbling.
Roasted it for 12 hours just below GT, tired again, perfection!
Pacific Northwest tends to have high humidity, worse in the winter.
Only one roll of PLA [bronze, metal filled] has ever needed roasting right from the factory.
Everything now stored in individual freezer-bags; each roll with its own desiccant pack, roast the desiccant packs every month to keep them active.
Does putting a roll of filament on the heated bed work in drying the filament? I've seen people do it on the cr-10 and they put a blanket on top to keep the heat in
Not the worst idea. I'd put a bigger container on top and regularly lift that to get rid of the moist air.
muy bueno, creo qe esto podria resolver las fallas de muchas marcas de filamentos, y de seguro muchas criticas a marcas de filamento fueron incorrectas por el factor "humedad". Excelente trabajo! saludos desde Argentina, Dios te bendiga :D
Excellent.
I have got a Amazon basics PLA which has a lot of water it
I live on A RiverLess city without a sea near, But i still have that problem
gonna try it
Great video! But I died a little inside when you cut away the zip-lock on the filament bag :) 3:39
Hi, I have a video idea: what about stepper motor dampers? They can reduce the sound of your printer to near zero, but what is the effect on the print quality (if any)?
Thank you or doing this video. I always cringe when I see 3D printer "experts" on UA-cam storing all their filament exposed on a shelf. What were your results like for PLA? When I first started in this hobby back in 2011, it was always drilled in my head from everyone in the community to store it with desiccant, but nowadays most people just let it chill out on a shelf. Were we all overreacting back then, or have the chemistries changes since then? Thanks again. Cheers!
You should note, that when humidity in room is low, it's not that harmful.
It highly depends on your filament. Nylon is impossible to store just on a shelf whilst PLA will work just fine. I've had rolls of PLA out for months without any issues or differences in printing behaviour.
Mr. Crankydude - Yes, I know all about nylon and other filaments. Nylon usually even has to be dried fresh from the manufacturer. But no one thinks it matters much for PLA. I guess I'll have to do my own version of this experiment for lowly PLA. And Artur, unless you live in the desert, there is plenty of humidity in your home.
I only have one type of PLA with lots of additives which has real moisture problems. All the others are basically fine. I forgot to really point out in the video that moisture becomes a bigger problem, the higher the printing temperature is. If you always print your PLA around 200°C, it should almost always be fine. If you want to increase the layer adhesion and want to use 240°C for example, you might notice moisture even in PLA.
After big projects I usually have left over material that I sometimes use much later. I noticed a little stringing with some year-old Shaxon PLA from Fry's that I print at 205deg. I know it didn't do that when it was new. The house is air conditioned.
I also noticed that the flow continues after the extrusion stops. CNC Kitchen mentioned a possible cause of moisture that I hadn't considered. I thought it might be the result of tension in the Bowden tube.
Maybe I'll get some desiccant and make a bin this year.
Thanks for another great video. Now I'll do a test print with a few filaments I have, after I "bake" them a bit, since they normally "pop" a bit when printing.
This is so brilliant! It’s always so easy to over look the little things when tackling tough projects but this video shows just how important seemingly small details, such as drying filament, can have such a huge impact on a final product. Thanks so much for posting this video and doing all of this research!!!
So does moisture, say at saturation point, change the finished parts strength? meaning, after the parts printed optimally, if you leave it outside and it gets wet, is the part weaker until dried?
I´ve been thinking... Does anybody tried an air fryer?
pro tip: "crystal" cat litter is the cheapest and most widely available source to get a lot of silicagel. just fill old socks or so with it. before using it as a dessicant, it needs to be dried in the oven or microwave, though. holding a spoon over it, and looking for condensation, is a great indicator to see if it's actually dry.
(the cat litter comes partially saturated, so it doesnt stick to a cat's slightly damp paw pads. cats despise sticky things.)
PS: if you arent in a hurry, a few days near a heater, in an airtight bag with plenty of dessicant, revives most soggy spools.
Yes moistened filament wont print well. But for 3d printed structural integrity wouldnt it not matter since just sitting out itll absorb moisture. So would your testing hooks if the hook sits for a few days in open air wont that weaken as well?
PLA please!
i store my pla in a Ziploc bag with the original desiccant
I didn't know Justin Timberlake was German
I paused the video to compute how much energy it would take to dry my filament. Later I resumed your video and realized you computed it for us. you really think of everything when you make these videos!
Very nice and informative. Not too wordy and no ego. Thanks so much.
Sehr informativ, prima...:-)
...mit Zug- und Kerbschlagversuch.. nicht schlecht
FL
Does this apply to really dry places like Colorado? We have around 30% relative humidity.
Good job, as always! You should have more subs!!
Good stuff! I suspect this may be part of my current printing issue, but severe bed and self adhesion issues didn't seem to be solely from moisture issues.
"after taking a closer look at the filaments" *whips out a fucking scanning electron microscope*
Danke für die Info! ^^
I find the way 3d printed parts break extremely interesting as they break in a very different way to anything else
Does he print directly on the prusa heatbed?
Interesting project 👍
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
what about vacuum drying? more energy efficient? faster?
Again an awesome vid mate, as always , love your work !
Could you do tests about mechanical creep among different materials?
cubers be like: omg this guy copied gan cubes logo for his pfp!!!
Keeping something dry? Hey something I'm good at! Not getting things wet! ;D
Cant i just put my filament spool on my heat bed with 70°C and turn it around every 15 Minutes?
Awesome, as always,... Thank you.
Great job on this video. I am very happy to give you a thumbs up. Have you thought about storing your filament under a vacuum to keep the levels of moisture very low?
There is a solution for that on Kickstarter I guess but the normal silica gel desiccant works very well for me.
i know that 3d printing is a hobby but damn does it need a lot of things optimized before we can even output a better result.
but hey, a hobby is a hobby. ill buy a dehydrator soon
Great work 😙
Just a pro tip regarding those round food dehydrators: You don't necessarily need to cut up the trays that come with the machine. I discovered that you can use a single tray on the bottom and then put a 3.5 or 5 gallon bucket on top of it. Drill four 3/8" (9.5mm) on the bottom of the bucket for air to escape. Works perfectly. This lets me keep the other trays clean so I can use them for drying food. I recommend putting a thermometer of some kind inside of it because the numbers on the dial do not correspond well with actual temperature. Also, it's possible to over-dry a resin. This is more of a problem with Nylon. Over-drying results in increased viscosity, which can cause its own problems during printing. You usually want to shoot for three to four hours at between 50C-116C depending on the specific resin. If you're unsure of what temp to use, literally google the resin type with the words "drying temperature" after it. You can also hold the temperature at about 30-35C indefinitely without any detrimental effects. This won't actually dry the filament if it is moist, but if the filament is already dry, it will maintain it.
Now i know why my PETG made bubble pop sound
My nozzle is oozing and it itches. Should I be drying my filament more?
Humid summer .... I just laughed my ass off. It is December 2020 in Florida with 60-70 degrees but humidity is up over 60% due to rain every other day. If we don't have any rain I can get my house down to 30% humidity but as soon we get down poor rain the house humidity spikes up to over 60% even with a humidifier running 24/7 it is like a battle you can't win. So I store my filament in sealed containers at all times and bake the ABS and PETG in the oven for about 4-6h when it was on the spool holder sitting to long. SPANNERHANDS Spool holder a thingyverse project is a very good alternative because that pool holder is like a vaccum chamber with bodentube running right to the extruder..
So, if I dry filament then vaccum seal it, it should star relatively dry?
Thank you very much :)
some air fryers have a dehydrate function to dry fruit and make jerky. wonder if it would work...
Yes, they probably will. Though you need to be able to control the temperature quite precisely to not melt the material.
Der Kerbschlagversuch einfach 1 zu 1 aus der Uni. :D Du hast wahrscheinlich Maschinenbau studiert oder ? Und wenn ja, wo ?
How about drying filament when using it with blowing hot air 60 oC to wire before it goes into printer???
Drying takes a while so just blowing it for a bit won't remove the moisture.
are you sure there is no difference if I blow a hot air throu 10cm tube 2cm diameter?
PLA is my only filament right now, so I'd love to see the same tests on them! Thanks for the convincing! Ordering a Dehydrator.
Hallo, Stefan, can I know your settings? I've been tweaking my printer settings of my jgaurora a5 for more than 6 months and it prints good only with 0.1mm layer height and if I go higher, layers get missaligned that the surface is rough and non-perfectly straight. Please help. Danke.
Hi, I recently built myself a drybox but WHERE did you get these little mesh sacks for the desiccant? Haven't found them in sane sizes for some weird reason.
I also purchased them on eBay. If they are too expensive, use a piece of mosquito mesh and close it with a ziptie.
Hello,
would you still recommend this food dehydrator? Does it still work?
--edit.. wait a second, this video is brand new.. facepalm LOL
lol
Would you believe the driest part of the house is the freezer!
Switch to 0.9° steppers and your fine vertical artifacts in the benchy hull will disappear....
Can moist cause bad bed adhesion?
I have a moist PETG, i dried it for 5 hours @ 55C and didnt change that much
I am now going to dry it at 65C
CNC KITCHEN? Seriously? Are You Eating The Prints My Dude? :D
Kids, THINK before You name Something
Does printing using PLA inside closed environment is hazardous to humans?
Great Sunlu, out of the box it has moisture in it. I have a roll of Inland PETG red transparent from 6 years ago that has been sitting out. I've printed a bunch of parts recently without issue. I got this new Sunlu PETG gray here 1/2023, it is total hot garbage constant bubbles. I am actually running 215C extruder temp, something is wrong here. I got another brand of PETG, will return the Sunlu if this new stuff works okay.
Stefans mum : Smells good Stefan, what ya cooking?
Stefan : Slow cooked filament. :)
Stefan's mum : 8-/
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The solution is RESIN UV printing :)
I cannot get my house moistfree :(
only have 1 big room, sleep/eat/live/hobby
the waterfall catdrinking box also doesn't help lol
Well, then resin printing is the worst you can choose. You definitely should sleep in the resin fumes.
Hi.....
Can we use hair dryer on the filament just before suction instead of heating up whole filament?? So that before extruder all moisture goes away??
The process needs time so that doesn't probably work well.
@@CNCKitchen alright..... Thanks for the reply...
Great video! Although for the testing with filament that has the most moisture, it would've been helpful if the filament experienced the more realistic conditions of being left in room air over the course of a humid summer or two, rather than being left in a plastic bag with a moist towel (because nobody does the thing with a moist towel). There might be a significant difference in water concentration in the filament and how far the water is penetrated into the filament.
Fantastic structured video. With a lot of factual information. Thank you kindly for your advice.
I had no idea that a wet filament was even a problem
Very informative! Vielen Dank!
I have a question: You are printing a blue benchy and this benchy has a different shade of blue in the lower part. My Benchys look exactly the same - how do I get rid of this?
This is best to be seen at minute 2:37. What causes this issue?
Thanks in advance
Robby Diener the lower part of benchy has the infill inside, which makes it look different. There is additional material on the inner side in that area. That’s why it will always look different in that way, no matter which color you choose.
Can you tell me, what percentage of moisture is critical?
i am using the same principle (box, Silicagel) to store the filaments ( PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, Primalloy).
Never had problems. I am using the Lock n Lock boxes.
blog.moneybag.de/3d-druck-filamente-und-die-richtige-lagerung/
Hard to say and hard to measure. I'd try to get them as dry as possible and if you notice changes in the printing behavior, then the moisture might be too high.