@@Robertadkins-h9c I’m going to be tweaking my carb tomorrow. We got one more test and tune November 16th. Air should be really good. Hoping for an 11.1X. 🤞
Great video! I haven't posted in a while and don't know if you solved the spiking temp issue or not. I was having the same issue. Turned out to be the lower radiator hose was collapsing at higher rpms. The lower hose didn't have a coil inside like the factory units. I picked one from NPD, problem solved.
It’s good to hear from you. I was wondering if you were still running your Duster. I did get that issue resolved by drilling two 1/4” holes in the thermostat. I guess when I deleted the thermostat bypass hose, thermostat itself wasn’t flowing enough coolant.
Drill an 1/8 inch bleed hole in thermostat and is it mechanical or electrical coolant sensor? If its electrical just make sure its not shorted out in the wiring. Otherwise get a bleed hole in the Thermostat. Awesome Video as usual bro!!! PS, its a good idea to drill a small bleed hole in a thermostat regardless. Eliminates spikes and depending on the size can even prevent overheating if it ever gets stuck closed.
Nice to see your car is back together. Look forward to seeing you at the track. Was trying to get o the track myself this weekend and make a few hits with the new car but they are predicting rain starting Thursday for 6 days in a row so don't look to promising.
I fixed my wiring on my Dart and put a new pusher Fan in front of radiator, tight fit at 18" ,i stay steady 185F (Previously went to 215F) . with old style 4 core ,that i will change in future. Never deleted the bypass before.
How's the FST treating you? I put a 750 RT plus vac sec on my built roller 318.Nice seeing your work, btw using a kevko cheater pan windage tray with oil cooler gives me a good 1.5 quarts.What size rad and which thermostat are you using?thinking of your heating issue
I really like my FST carb, it’s been working great. My radiator is a 26”, 3 core aluminum. The thermostat is a 180 degree. I ended up drilling two 1/4 inch holes in the thermostat and that cured the temp spike.
G’day mate. In my experience, those spikes in temp on your gauge is the first of the water to come past the gauge from the hottest part of the engine, since you’ve taken the bypass off, you have effectively “stalled” the water flow, so as the thermostat opens, water starts to cycle, and you’ll get that spike( water from the heads). I drill a 1/4 inch hole in the thermostat body, to help prevent this.
Great video man… I am all about doing shake downs on the street before I go to the track….. I have a duster also, but mines a big block and I’ve had it forever…(I miss the small block days) i’m gonna start making a channel here very shortly very similar to your channel about street cars going to the dragstrip… I always hit the like button for your videos… as soon as I get my channel set up, I’ll let you know you and I have the same haircut and we’re about the same age lol…. I absolutely love your dusters
@@Duster_Garage it should be pretty good it’s a 30/440 with roughly 11 to 1compression but it’s got the TFS 270 heads and an old-school 590 solid purple shaft… keep making videos bro!!!I share them with all of my mopar buddies!!
Good job with the pan, nice when you see actual results. The temp spike?… dunno but maybe the engineers saw the same spike in 1963 and came up with that bypass arrangement lol. Wonder if the Poly motors have a bypass too… probably do.
Really like the color combination, hemi orange engine with the yellow body color. Wonder if that's the original factory color? Just be sure and keep it between the ditches!
You’re right, the engine looks really good in the yellow engine bay. That yellow is the original color. If it was an original 340, it would have been Hemi orange as well. I do try my best to keep her on the road.
With the factory gauge, air or cavitation would often show as a temperature drop, not rise. Not sure about an aftermarket one, but like someone said, air. I just wonder if the gauge is reporting real time what's happening. After a hard run there's a lot of heat in the engine, which registers on the gauge, then the water circulates and cools it back down. If it were me I'd swap in a different thermostat and see if it does it again just to get more data.
Right on brother 👍 💯 💪how long was the engine running from cold? Are you using a 180° thermostat? Sometimes those can stick even when new...no other thoughts come to mind honestly...You're duster is a carbon copy of mine save for mine converted to 440...both yellow, both in great shape. Mine has a dana 60/spool/4.10 ratio.... engine sitting on a stand currently, as I'm restoring my '69 bee. Definitely interested in what you find out here.
I do have a 180* thermostat. It’s the same one that has been working great for years. I’m wondering if I need a hi-flow thermostat now. There’s just something about them Dusters, bet you can’t wait to get yours back together.
I deleted it to clean up the look of the engine and eliminate a possible leak point. Some racing intake manifolds don’t even come with provisions for the bypass hose.
Awesome video, man...been viewing all your videos most of the day 😂
@@Robertadkins-h9c I’m going to be tweaking my carb tomorrow. We got one more test and tune November 16th. Air should be really good. Hoping for an 11.1X. 🤞
@Duster_Garage I'd say you'll get it man❤️
Great video! I haven't posted in a while and don't know if you solved the spiking temp issue or not. I was having the same issue. Turned out to be the lower radiator hose was collapsing at higher rpms. The lower hose didn't have a coil inside like the factory units. I picked one from NPD, problem solved.
It’s good to hear from you. I was wondering if you were still running your Duster.
I did get that issue resolved by drilling two 1/4” holes in the thermostat. I guess when I deleted the thermostat bypass hose, thermostat itself wasn’t flowing enough coolant.
Drill an 1/8 inch bleed hole in thermostat and is it mechanical or electrical coolant sensor? If its electrical just make sure its not shorted out in the wiring. Otherwise get a bleed hole in the Thermostat. Awesome Video as usual bro!!! PS, its a good idea to drill a small bleed hole in a thermostat regardless. Eliminates spikes and depending on the size can even prevent overheating if it ever gets stuck closed.
Thanks man, I think drilling a hole is the route I’m going to take.
That’s cool you have consistent oil pressure now
That’s a plus
Nice to see your car is back together. Look forward to seeing you at the track. Was trying to get o the track myself this weekend and make a few hits with the new car but they are predicting rain starting Thursday for 6 days in a row so don't look to promising.
I’m definitely looking forward to getting to the track. This is my favorite time of the year to drag race. Good luck when you get to the track.
Thanks ya there run reel good in the cold. Car looks awesome from underneath, very clean.
Thanks buddy
I fixed my wiring on my Dart and put a new pusher Fan in front of radiator, tight fit at 18" ,i stay steady 185F (Previously went to 215F) . with old style 4 core ,that i will change in future. Never deleted the bypass before.
How's the FST treating you? I put a 750 RT plus vac sec on my built roller 318.Nice seeing your work, btw using a kevko cheater pan windage tray with oil cooler gives me a good 1.5 quarts.What size rad and which thermostat are you using?thinking of your heating issue
I really like my FST carb, it’s been working great. My radiator is a 26”, 3 core aluminum. The thermostat is a 180 degree. I ended up drilling two 1/4 inch holes in the thermostat and that cured the temp spike.
@@Duster_Garage Good to hear you got it cooled down.360s don't like to much heat.Good stuff
G’day mate. In my experience, those spikes in temp on your gauge is the first of the water to come past the gauge from the hottest part of the engine, since you’ve taken the bypass off, you have effectively “stalled” the water flow, so as the thermostat opens, water starts to cycle, and you’ll get that spike( water from the heads).
I drill a 1/4 inch hole in the thermostat body, to help prevent this.
Thank you for your advice. My buddy suggested doing the same thing. I think that is what I’ll try.
Great video man… I am all about doing shake downs on the street before I go to the track….. I have a duster also, but mines a big block and I’ve had it forever…(I miss the small block days) i’m gonna start making a channel here very shortly very similar to your channel about street cars going to the dragstrip… I always hit the like button for your videos… as soon as I get my channel set up, I’ll let you know you and I have the same haircut and we’re about the same age lol…. I absolutely love your dusters
Nice! Street/strip is the way to do it. Can’t wait to see your Duster in action
@@Duster_Garage it should be pretty good it’s a 30/440 with roughly 11 to 1compression but it’s got the TFS 270 heads and an old-school 590 solid purple shaft… keep making videos bro!!!I share them with all of my mopar buddies!!
Sounds like a solid combo. I have an old school purpleshaft 484 cam and it works well.
Need to drill a hole in thermostat and get the air out
Good job with the pan, nice when you see actual results. The temp spike?… dunno but maybe the engineers saw the same spike in 1963 and came up with that bypass arrangement lol. Wonder if the Poly motors have a bypass too… probably do.
It’s there for a reason, but I didn’t think it would affect temp that way.
My car doesn't have it and it doesn't spike air in system
Really like the color combination, hemi orange engine with the yellow body color. Wonder if that's the original factory color? Just be sure and keep it between the ditches!
You’re right, the engine looks really good in the yellow engine bay. That yellow is the original color. If it was an original 340, it would have been Hemi orange as well.
I do try my best to keep her on the road.
With the factory gauge, air or cavitation would often show as a temperature drop, not rise. Not sure about an aftermarket one, but like someone said, air. I just wonder if the gauge is reporting real time what's happening. After a hard run there's a lot of heat in the engine, which registers on the gauge, then the water circulates and cools it back down. If it were me I'd swap in a different thermostat and see if it does it again just to get more data.
I was thinking about putting in a hi-flow thermostat.
Right on brother 👍 💯 💪how long was the engine running from cold? Are you using a 180° thermostat? Sometimes those can stick even when new...no other thoughts come to mind honestly...You're duster is a carbon copy of mine save for mine converted to 440...both yellow, both in great shape. Mine has a dana 60/spool/4.10 ratio.... engine sitting on a stand currently, as I'm restoring my '69 bee. Definitely interested in what you find out here.
I do have a 180* thermostat. It’s the same one that has been working great for years. I’m wondering if I need a hi-flow thermostat now.
There’s just something about them Dusters, bet you can’t wait to get yours back together.
Yooooo brother!
🤙
Why did you remove the bypass it's there for a reason, Just to make it look better?
I deleted it to clean up the look of the engine and eliminate a possible leak point.
Some racing intake manifolds don’t even come with provisions for the bypass hose.
@@Duster_Garage Try and put it back on and see if it solves your heating problem.
Need to protect that oil pan its defenseless
It looks low but it’s only about 3/4” lower than the k member.
It is
@@therealwolverine420yeah, it’s only a 6 qt pan.