Thank you so much for putting this together and sharing it. I can't imagine why Starlink didn't make the system like this in the beginning. Would be so much easier for the RV community who use 12 volts for everything. Well done mate...!
Alright Captain America. Just have Peggy hold the camera next time to make it easier on yourself. lol On the serious side, this does have a good bit of potential for travel if you compress it a bit. Turn that 48v converter sideways or get a more compressed one and then move the antennas. That will give you enough space to hold a roughly 120ah 12v LFP underneath. I did the math using Interior dimensions from HF's site along with 32650 cells from Battery Hookup. Add some low profile fans for cooling so that you don't have to open the case. And then a router with detachable antennas so that you can get better wifi if needed. It should even be possible to attach antennas to the case directly, greatly increasing wifi signal. Should give you the ability to run Starlink for about 1-1.5 days with a single case that weighs around 30-35lbs. You might even have enough space inside to add a small solar charge controller, or at least you can by removing a few battery cells. Will need supports to make sure that nothing moves inside. Otherwise the cells will destroy the equipment. Of course all of this can be much lighter if using NCA/NMC Li-Ion batteries. That would bring the weight down over 10lbs for the same capacity. But those have a higher risk of use. But just for fun, you can fit up to 192 21700 cells at 5ah each in a 6s32p configuration (24v-160ah). That is around 3.5Kwh, 2.25x more than the LFPs in the same space. Still, a great build. Thank you for the video.
Very cool, I'm sharing this video with my starlink RV friends if you don't mind. On a side note if you had a Microsoft duo2 phone you could film and run the starlink app at the same time, and when your done edit the video on the phone and upload too
@2:10 you're holding the WiFi widget, and you talk about taping it in. You've got a DIN rail in there - there exist neat "DIN rail spring clips" that I'd personally screw to the back of that WiFi widget. Then you can "mount it to DIN", and yet if you want to move it around for reception, it's a one-hand release to pick it up again. (Ok, maybe I like DIN too much, I'd remount everything that way :D)
Starlink has generated significant interest and excitement in the tech and internet connectivity communities. Its promise of providing high-speed internet access to remote and underserved areas is seen as a potential game-changer, especially for regions with limited access to traditional broadband options. Is it TRUE?
Thanks! Any wifi router that has a LAN connection should work. After bypassing the old Starlink router the new wifi router cannot be accessed and tested from the Starlink app. The Starlink app just communicates directly with the antenna and the smarts inside the antenna.
Just stumbled across your video (love those UA-cam algorithms 🙌🏻) … I’m still learning as I go along with my van build so forgive me for asking … what is the size wiring going in to and out from the Mean Well DC/DC converter?
Looks really good! Was wondering I you knew what amperage the dishy needs from the 48v. Im having issues blowing fuses at the 12v side once I connect to the Dishy. I have tried 3 and 5 amp fuses.
@@stevearodgers Thanks for the speedy response Steve! Do you use a 15AMP fuse with your rig for the 12v to 48v? I also have another question. Can you control the Dishy when the Starlink Router is not in the mix? For example putting the Dishy in "STOW" mode. I would really like to use my Meraki MX as opposed the the Starlink Router. Thanks again!
@@grinstarr I'm currently using a 10 Amp fuse, but it probably makes sense to use a 15. Yes, you can still use the app and control functions on the antenna like Stow. Most of the intelligence is actually in the dish and not their router.
I'm in the process of setting up a similar setup with the Dishypowa hardware. Your video has been very helpful, thank you ! One question, the cable that runs between your Dishypowa and the little router, is that a standard cat5 cable or did you have to do any modifications to the pinouts on either end?
I've not had much luck with this exact setup. I have 2 dishypowa injectors and the same power supply. The current keeps spiking over 5A and blowing fuses that i've been using. i've re-terminated the dishy end to T588B a number of times using different RJ45 connectors but the same results.
The battery pack I'm using here is only a 12Ah battery I used for proof of concept testing. My GoBox uses an average of 3 amps (without snow melt), so roughly 3.5 hours with this small battery. In the next version I'm planning on incorporating the battery into the case and using a 30Ah LiFePO4 battery which should give around 9 hours of use.
@@stevearodgers When you do a upgrade FOR SURE do a detailed clip, describing each part, what it does etc, I want something like this especially for emergencies, and such with a how to and solar hook up would be great, I just subscribbed, Total cost for the NON Starlink goods was ????????
hi Steve, great video. Any issues with heat mounting that Mean Well power supply as you show in your vid? According to their specs its supposed to be mounted vertically, but I have found the power supply doesnt really get very hot in real life usage.
Hey Steve. Awesome video. I'm still new to figuring out the power requirements for this, and confused why your router is taking additional 5v power from USB-C. Isn't the purpose of POE to provide enough power for the router? Or does the router you have just require additional power? Will all setups require an additional 5v to the router?
The POE is used to power the Starlink dish/antenna. In the case of DishyPowa it only sends POE to the dish and NOT the router. The GL.iNet router I'm using requires 5v power from a Type-C power source.
Correct. I used standard T568B pinouts. The DishyPowa does the correct Starlink crossover internally. If you're using a 48v POE injector from Amazon you'll also need to build a crossover cable using what's called the ELON wiring standard. This is documented in several places online including the Facebook group Starlink Hacks.
I have not, but others I have seen have reported about a 20-30% efficiency gain by going to 12v. This probably doesn't matter to the majority of users, but for those of us trying to gain the most efficiency with solar panels and 12v batteries it definitely does!
So with the custom poe injector and the Beryl you no longer need the starlink router? Does the Beryl need any kind of customization or just take in a standard WAN connection?
That is correct. You put the Starlink router in bypass mode and it's no longer required. The Beryl gets an IP address via DHCP from the Starlink Dish and sees it as any other WAN connection.
Is is really necessary to put the Starlink router in bypass mode with a dc conversion kit like this? I barely understand networks and electronics but it seems that since the Starlink router is not used for power and connection to dishy, bypass mode on SL router is not necessary? My understanding is when the SL router is still used as power source and connection to dish but a third party router is used the SL router has to be set to bypass so there aren’t conflicting dual Wi-Fi networks ? We don’t have this issue with DC conversions because we ditch the SL router ? The reason I ask is I would like to keep my Starlink router ready to use as a back up normally on 120v with an inverter in case my 12v conversion kit fails or if I want to use my Starlink plugged in beyond my camper. If the SL router is placed in bypass mode a factory reset would be required to use it again to power and route the Starlink. Great vid - thank you!!!
I am looking for about your product place lace me a message. When I post this, I am looking for more information on this. Build this and thing or the parts at.
Ignorant about this stuff, BUT, the little box that has the ears on it, is it what's sending wi-fit signals to a lap top if you have one? I need something like this for my river lot since I don't have ANY utilities, so with this setup I can have internet & JUST a 12 volt battery??
Yes, the little box with ears is a small travel wifi router that provides connectivity for laptops and other devices. Correct, you could run this with just a 12v battery, but you would need some way to recharge the battery maybe with a solar panel setup.
Why do you call this a " Go Box ". it should be called a Dont Go box because you need a truck to carry all that nonsense around. I'm an Nomad Van'r and Sailing Live aboard , I carry my Dishy around in a Go Bag with a Jackery i300 power station and have perfect WiFi for 11-12 hours on 1 charged unit. What even IS the point of all that other than having fun building a 26" 10 pound Router in a box ??? My Starlink Router works perfectly fine and when I broadcast WiFi to my friends in Vans or Boats around me , I just use the Starlink Ethernet Adapter to my Broadcast Antenna and share wifi over a 1/2 mile 360 degree range. Sorry Steve , don't mean to rain on the parade here , but it just seems totally useless to build that and spend all that money to have a HUGE router in a box that is far from mobile and is no better than a stock Starlink Router ...
Thank you so much for putting this together and sharing it. I can't imagine why Starlink didn't make the system like this in the beginning. Would be so much easier for the RV community who use 12 volts for everything. Well done mate...!
Alright Captain America. Just have Peggy hold the camera next time to make it easier on yourself. lol
On the serious side, this does have a good bit of potential for travel if you compress it a bit. Turn that 48v converter sideways or get a more compressed one and then move the antennas. That will give you enough space to hold a roughly 120ah 12v LFP underneath. I did the math using Interior dimensions from HF's site along with 32650 cells from Battery Hookup. Add some low profile fans for cooling so that you don't have to open the case. And then a router with detachable antennas so that you can get better wifi if needed. It should even be possible to attach antennas to the case directly, greatly increasing wifi signal. Should give you the ability to run Starlink for about 1-1.5 days with a single case that weighs around 30-35lbs. You might even have enough space inside to add a small solar charge controller, or at least you can by removing a few battery cells. Will need supports to make sure that nothing moves inside. Otherwise the cells will destroy the equipment.
Of course all of this can be much lighter if using NCA/NMC Li-Ion batteries. That would bring the weight down over 10lbs for the same capacity. But those have a higher risk of use. But just for fun, you can fit up to 192 21700 cells at 5ah each in a 6s32p configuration (24v-160ah). That is around 3.5Kwh, 2.25x more than the LFPs in the same space.
Still, a great build. Thank you for the video.
Well done !!! Thank you ! Details matter - and you provide them.
Awesome, you opened my eyes on how it works! 🤝
That is awesome! Thank you very much for sharing.
Very cool, I'm sharing this video with my starlink RV friends if you don't mind. On a side note if you had a Microsoft duo2 phone you could film and run the starlink app at the same time, and when your done edit the video on the phone and upload too
Sure thing... Share away!
So clean!! Well done
Definitely subscribing! This is great 👍
Cool setup!!! I'm going to try to do similar in Ukraine, thank you!
God Bless America
Great job. 👍
Thank you!
@2:10 you're holding the WiFi widget, and you talk about taping it in. You've got a DIN rail in there - there exist neat "DIN rail spring clips" that I'd personally screw to the back of that WiFi widget. Then you can "mount it to DIN", and yet if you want to move it around for reception, it's a one-hand release to pick it up again. (Ok, maybe I like DIN too much, I'd remount everything that way :D)
Yeah, that's a great idea. I'm hoping there will be a 3D printed DIN mount soon for that very purpose. I didn't see one last time I checked.
Starlink has generated significant interest and excitement in the tech and internet connectivity communities. Its promise of providing high-speed internet access to remote and underserved areas is seen as a potential game-changer, especially for regions with limited access to traditional broadband options. Is it TRUE?
Nice sharing
Would be sweet to get the battery in the case - make it even more portable!
Yes, that's my upcoming project. I'm waiting on DishyPowa V2!
Great
Awesome and clean Job!
What has to be done to make sure the wifi is compatible with the system and the app?
Thanks! Any wifi router that has a LAN connection should work. After bypassing the old Starlink router the new wifi router cannot be accessed and tested from the Starlink app. The Starlink app just communicates directly with the antenna and the smarts inside the antenna.
Just stumbled across your video (love those UA-cam algorithms 🙌🏻) … I’m still learning as I go along with my van build so forgive me for asking … what is the size wiring going in to and out from the Mean Well DC/DC converter?
I used 12 gauge wire, but that was likely overkill. You could probably get by with 10 gauge or less.
Thanks!
Looks really good! Was wondering I you knew what amperage the dishy needs from the 48v. Im having issues blowing fuses at the 12v side once I connect to the Dishy. I have tried 3 and 5 amp fuses.
In my testing I've seen it draw over 7 amps on startup and while booting. I would probably use a 15 Amp fuse.
@@stevearodgers Thanks for the speedy response Steve! Do you use a 15AMP fuse with your rig for the 12v to 48v? I also have another question. Can you control the Dishy when the Starlink Router is not in the mix? For example putting the Dishy in "STOW" mode. I would really like to use my Meraki MX as opposed the the Starlink Router. Thanks again!
@@grinstarr I'm currently using a 10 Amp fuse, but it probably makes sense to use a 15. Yes, you can still use the app and control functions on the antenna like Stow. Most of the intelligence is actually in the dish and not their router.
@@stevearodgers thanks again !!!
does the equipment generate enough heat that you should not keep the case closed?
I'm in the process of setting up a similar setup with the Dishypowa hardware. Your video has been very helpful, thank you ! One question, the cable that runs between your Dishypowa and the little router, is that a standard cat5 cable or did you have to do any modifications to the pinouts on either end?
Thanks! Glad it's been helpful. Just a standard patch cable will work. DishyPowa does all the pin crossing internally.
I've not had much luck with this exact setup. I have 2 dishypowa injectors and the same power supply. The current keeps spiking over 5A and blowing fuses that i've been using. i've re-terminated the dishy end to T588B a number of times using different RJ45 connectors but the same results.
Not sure what could be wrong. Have you tested the RJ45 connectors with a tester like the Klein Scout Pro? If not, I would definitely recommend that.
@@stevearodgers I took a brave pill and upped the fuse to 10A. It connected. I wonder if the high current was due to rain sitting on the dish.
Very cool! Could you give some advice how you set up the gli router? Mone is always saying: no cable connected when I try to use it.
Not sure. Maybe test the Ethernet patch cables?
Wish I knew how many watts that set up uses.
Interesting setup - did you do a before power consumption test (that'd be with a 12v powered inverter) and a post power test to compare the two?
Very cool! How long of use time do you get with the 12 v battery? Maybe moot with solar panel but wondering in case of several cloudy days.
The battery pack I'm using here is only a 12Ah battery I used for proof of concept testing. My GoBox uses an average of 3 amps (without snow melt), so roughly 3.5 hours with this small battery. In the next version I'm planning on incorporating the battery into the case and using a 30Ah LiFePO4 battery which should give around 9 hours of use.
@@stevearodgers When you do a upgrade FOR SURE do a detailed clip, describing each part, what it does etc, I want something like this especially for emergencies, and such with a how to and solar hook up would be great, I just subscribbed, Total cost for the NON Starlink goods was ????????
Hey Steve. What gauge wire did you run from the SEA to the fuse block?
hi Steve, great video. Any issues with heat mounting that Mean Well power supply as you show in your vid? According to their specs its supposed to be mounted vertically, but I have found the power supply doesnt really get very hot in real life usage.
Hey Steve. Awesome video. I'm still new to figuring out the power requirements for this, and confused why your router is taking additional 5v power from USB-C. Isn't the purpose of POE to provide enough power for the router? Or does the router you have just require additional power? Will all setups require an additional 5v to the router?
The POE is used to power the Starlink dish/antenna. In the case of DishyPowa it only sends POE to the dish and NOT the router. The GL.iNet router I'm using requires 5v power from a Type-C power source.
@@stevearodgers Got it, thanks for the answer 👍
Did you have a pinout for the cat5 end? You had to cut the cable and attach the RJ45 connector right?
Correct. I used standard T568B pinouts. The DishyPowa does the correct Starlink crossover internally. If you're using a 48v POE injector from Amazon you'll also need to build a crossover cable using what's called the ELON wiring standard. This is documented in several places online including the Facebook group Starlink Hacks.
Do you have a power draw comparison for DC vs stock AC power starlink?
I have not, but others I have seen have reported about a 20-30% efficiency gain by going to 12v. This probably doesn't matter to the majority of users, but for those of us trying to gain the most efficiency with solar panels and 12v batteries it definitely does!
STEVE: Did you ever try to use a starlink antenna under a glass roof Ex. Tesla Model Y of 3...?
I have not. If you let me barrow your Y model I'll let you know if it works. 🙂
why not just the original Starlink router and a power station. The same size
So with the custom poe injector and the Beryl you no longer need the starlink router? Does the Beryl need any kind of customization or just take in a standard WAN connection?
That is correct. You put the Starlink router in bypass mode and it's no longer required. The Beryl gets an IP address via DHCP from the Starlink Dish and sees it as any other WAN connection.
@@stevearodgers HUM, you're a smart cookie
Hi,is big problem to set onether router for starlink
No, not a problem at all. You just use the Starlink application to put their router in "bypass mode".
@@stevearodgers oh,thanks,but i want to use Starlonk without original Router
@@necubredatikazem ua-cam.com/video/IfIZSKWhXSg/v-deo.html
Is is really necessary to put the Starlink router in bypass mode with a dc conversion kit like this?
I barely understand networks and electronics but it seems that since the Starlink router is not used for power and connection to dishy, bypass mode on SL router is not necessary?
My understanding is when the SL router is still used as power source and connection to dish but a third party router is used the SL router has to be set to bypass so there aren’t conflicting dual Wi-Fi networks ? We don’t have this issue with DC conversions because we ditch the SL router ?
The reason I ask is I would like to keep my Starlink router ready to use as a back up normally on 120v with an inverter in case my 12v conversion kit fails or if I want to use my Starlink plugged in beyond my camper. If the SL router is placed in bypass mode a factory reset would be required to use it again to power and route the Starlink.
Great vid - thank you!!!
Muy buen video amigo, cuánto cuesta? Ya que por mi zona se va mucho la luz y me interesa este arreglo a 12v.
¡Gracias! Alrededor de $ 450 sin contar el paquete de baterías o Starlink. Vea la descripción del video para obtener una Lista de materiales completa.
I am looking for about your product place lace me a message. When I post this, I am looking for more information on this.
Build this and thing or the parts at.
Ignorant about this stuff, BUT, the little box that has the ears on it, is it what's sending wi-fit signals to a lap top if you have one? I need something like this for my river lot since I don't have ANY utilities, so with this setup I can have internet & JUST a 12 volt battery??
Yes, the little box with ears is a small travel wifi router that provides connectivity for laptops and other devices. Correct, you could run this with just a 12v battery, but you would need some way to recharge the battery maybe with a solar panel setup.
Why do you call this a " Go Box ". it should be called a Dont Go box because you need a truck to carry all that nonsense around. I'm an Nomad Van'r and Sailing Live aboard , I carry my Dishy around in a Go Bag with a Jackery i300 power station and have perfect WiFi for 11-12 hours on 1 charged unit. What even IS the point of all that other than having fun building a 26" 10 pound Router in a box ???
My Starlink Router works perfectly fine and when I broadcast WiFi to my friends in Vans or Boats around me , I just use the Starlink Ethernet Adapter to my Broadcast Antenna and share wifi over a 1/2 mile 360 degree range.
Sorry Steve , don't mean to rain on the parade here , but it just seems totally useless to build that and spend all that money to have a HUGE router in a box that is far from mobile and is no better than a stock Starlink Router ...
You didn't do the proverbial speed test!! How do we know this is genuine Starlink internet?? Or a counterfeit from Ukraine?