10 years old , I'm surprised everyone isn't doing it like this . This is the most accurate way . I made one the other day , now I laugh at scarf jointing videos . Mate , you must be some kind of genius . 10/10 . Peace .
I remember when this video came out almost 10 years ago, I built 2 of these jigs and a bunch of different sides for different headstock angles, still use them all the time. Still say Fletcher is one of the best on the UA-cams!
Hey David, I enjoy your videos. I am an amateur luthier myself (not your level at all) and I see you do thing that I do too - but have not seen others do. That is very comforting in some way. Anyway, a small tip that I don't see anyone else point out. You can sand both pieces at once and save time. If you place the headstock piece same way as the neck piece starting where the neck piece ends making one long 10 degree angle. Hope you find it useful since I learn a lot from your videos.
I just saw this video today. I made the exact jig yesterday after having problems getting my first scarf joint to line up properly. Mines a bit wider, and I made a second “top” that I mounted my router on. Could have saved a bunch of designing had I seen your video first! Great minds think alike!!! Too funny! I’ll be adding the adjustable stop block now.
A couple things for recommendation to dovetail this simple, yet fantastic jig 1) A chop saw template makes this work SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier than a bandsaw 2) add a small lip to the clamp block in the middle to let it really get on the piece. Make the lip oversize a tad, and use washers or small pieces of wood to let it really bite down.
Rich, good question. There really is no need for biscuits when gluing a body blank together. Its a long grain to long grain glue joint with lots of surface area and the glue joint is probably stronger than the surrounding wood. BTW, I live on the south coast near Sydney. Cheers Dave
G'day, Yeah I had tried stacking them together in the jig but the headstock part kept moving from the sanding force. That's why I went with the adjustable section on the jig. It is a very valid and good suggestion though ! Thanks
Thankyou my friend. Nice work. I was in the exhibit building business and we basically built jigs for everything. You seem just like my ole' shop mates. Enjoyed your work.
wish i had came across your videos sooner!!!!!!!!! I'm 21 and have built 3 electrics but mainly from kits on the internet which are not always that great (seeing as some of them come with warped necks and un levelled frets) so i have been looking into making my own custom model guitar and i have to say these videos are spot on mate thanks for the information
Mr Fletcher, you have provided some wonderful videos, I await eagerly for the next installmment! I wish I had watched each segment prior to venturing into my first build. You have provided valuable information that should help even a mildly motivated person build a nice musical instrument. After seeing your production, I should think your guitars are in-demand and flying out of your shop. I will keep an eye out for your next video. All the best in the future and happy building!
I enjoyed your video David. May I suggest to keep the pencil point sharp while marking a line, twirl or rotate the pencil between the thumb and fingers. Cheers David at Edmonton
TIP *** Instead of using top slide part of this style jig. Take bottom part of this jig.... neck clamped in place as you have it.. turn upside down and run on belt sander so that belt is PULLING AWAY from open grain. A trees fiber ( grain ) by nature is designed to suck up water. It is basically a bunch of straws. Sanding INTO these straws ( grain ) only jams them with that very fine powder created from sanding....Thus clogging the grain. ( leaving less grain for glue to absorb into ) Sand both parts ( neck and headstock ) outward away from the open grain instead of into it. Your glue joint will be more stable because the glued grain is clean. Early Jackson Charvel scarf joints never fail like newer ones you might see these days.
YOU ARE THE FIRST PERSON I'VE SEEN TALK ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND IT HAS ALWAYS BOTHERED ME WHEN I SEE PEOPLE SANDING INTO THE SCARF JOINT OR PULLING BACKWARDS WITHN A FILE OR WRASP. IT REALLY DOES MAKE A SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE TO PRESERVE THE LENGTH AND STRENGTH OF THE WOOD FIBERS FOR GLUE UPS, GREAT TIP. BY THE WAY THIS IS NO KNOCK ON FLETCHER HE IS A MASTER BUILDER, JUST A BIT OF KNOWLEDGE GUITAR BUILDERS SHOULD KNOW ABOUT, WE ARE ALL LEARNING EVEN THE MOST SKILLED OF US. THANKS KEVIN HUFF, GREAT TIP. AND THANKS FLETCHER FOR YOUR ALWAYS AMAZING VIDEOS.
David, I have watched all of your videos and the are simply splendid with my preference for the ones where to talk your way through the steps. I have question: When you laminate the body and neck, why don't you use biscuits? They are very common in cabinet and furniture making. What part of down under are you from? Can't wait for the next video! Regards, Rich NY, USA
Hey Fletch.....once again let me thank you for the videos. I have learned so much from you and I go back and watch again and again and get something else I missed. Now you can probably see this coming, but do you know an outlet for patterns for bodies and necks that can be transferred to wood for the template?? I'm about to try a flying v with a Floyd Rose Tremolo...( I know.....it may take me a couple times to get it right) Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated......Tom
This man has jigs for making jigs. All that work so some kid can get a lap top for Christmas and become famous for downloading beats and adding samples to them digitally.
Well nothing is "essential" really, it can all be done by hand but that would be hard work... IMO Bare essential tools would be a handheld router, a jigsaw and some good rasps for shaping the neck... Additional tools that would be nice would be a thicknesser, a jointer , a spindle sander and a bandsaw.
It's actually hurting my brain thinking of how one would get this to work with a router. You're sanding the blank flush with the rails and the base of the router would have to follow the rails but the blank is higher than that. Seems like a lot more trouble to figure out than just putting some elbow grease on it and sanding it.
Archangel Guitars USA Couldn't you set the face of the neck that is getting routed so it sits behind the rails of the jig? That way the base the router rides on sits flush with the rails, and all you'd have to do is set the router bit deeper to cut the proper angle on the neck. Makes sense to me though I've never done a scarf joint before, and am about to attempt my first one which is why I came to this video
There is a much easier way to cut a precise scarf joint using a miter saw. Basically the jig clamps onto the miter saw perpendicular to the fence. The jig then has a fence that holds the neck blank at whatever angle you want your scarf joint, in my case 12 degrees. One cut with the miter saw and your done. The jig in this video requires a lot more time and effort to achieve the exact same results.
10 years old , I'm surprised everyone isn't doing it like this . This is the most accurate way . I made one the other day , now I laugh at scarf jointing videos . Mate , you must be some kind of genius . 10/10 . Peace .
I remember when this video came out almost 10 years ago, I built 2 of these jigs and a bunch of different sides for different headstock angles, still use them all the time. Still say Fletcher is one of the best on the UA-cams!
Hey David, I enjoy your videos. I am an amateur luthier myself (not your level at all) and I see you do thing that I do too - but have not seen others do. That is very comforting in some way.
Anyway, a small tip that I don't see anyone else point out. You can sand both pieces at once and save time. If you place the headstock piece same way as the neck piece starting where the neck piece ends making one long 10 degree angle. Hope you find it useful since I learn a lot from your videos.
I just saw this video today. I made the exact jig yesterday after having problems getting my first scarf joint to line up properly. Mines a bit wider, and I made a second “top” that I mounted my router on. Could have saved a bunch of designing had I seen your video first! Great minds think alike!!! Too funny! I’ll be adding the adjustable stop block now.
A couple things for recommendation to dovetail this simple, yet fantastic jig
1) A chop saw template makes this work SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier than a bandsaw
2) add a small lip to the clamp block in the middle to let it really get on the piece. Make the lip oversize a tad, and use washers or small pieces of wood to let it really bite down.
Thank you y friend. I just started making guitars, and every little angle helps
Thanks for the video and the sanding jig info. I used it for my Les Paul build,did the job.
Rich, good question. There really is no need for biscuits when gluing a body blank together. Its a long grain to long grain glue joint with lots of surface area and the glue joint is probably stronger than the surrounding wood.
BTW, I live on the south coast near Sydney.
Cheers
Dave
G'day, Yeah I had tried stacking them together in the jig but the headstock part kept moving from the sanding force. That's why I went with the adjustable section on the jig. It is a very valid and good suggestion though ! Thanks
that neck blank is absolutely gorgeous :o thanks for putting this up !
Thankyou my friend. Nice work. I was in the exhibit building business and we basically built jigs for everything. You seem just like my ole' shop mates. Enjoyed your work.
wish i had came across your videos sooner!!!!!!!!! I'm 21 and have built 3 electrics but mainly from kits on the internet which are not always that great (seeing as some of them come with warped necks and un levelled frets) so i have been looking into making my own custom model guitar and i have to say these videos are spot on mate thanks for the information
Excellent jig- thanks for posting
I'll be making one of these very soon. Great design.
Mr Fletcher, you have provided some wonderful videos, I await eagerly for the next installmment! I wish I had watched each segment prior to venturing into my first build. You have provided valuable information that should help even a mildly motivated person build a nice musical instrument. After seeing your production, I should think your guitars are in-demand and flying out of your shop. I will keep an eye out for your next video. All the best in the future and happy building!
I can't thank you enough for your tips man, you are a constant inspiration. Oh, and thank you! :)
I enjoyed your video David.
May I suggest to keep the pencil point sharp while marking a line, twirl or rotate the pencil between the thumb and fingers.
Cheers
David at Edmonton
Finally got around to building myself one of these and it works perfect! Thanks for the video and the design!!!
Great to hear . I actually made a new version of this jig but made it wider ( 4" ) so I don't have to glue ears on the neck later
I made mine 3.5in wide. Perfect for the headstock design I'm using. I went with the 10 degree angle as well since I'm using an inline headstock.
Thank you for posting this!
Thank you so much for the great info, just what i needed, another jig, can never have to many jigs :), thanks again
I know the feeling ! :-)
Fletcher Handcrafted Guit
TIP *** Instead of using top slide part of this style jig. Take bottom part of this jig.... neck clamped in place as you have it.. turn upside down and run on belt sander so that belt is PULLING AWAY from open grain. A trees fiber ( grain ) by nature is designed to suck up water. It is basically a bunch of straws. Sanding INTO these straws ( grain ) only jams them with that very fine powder created from sanding....Thus clogging the grain. ( leaving less grain for glue to absorb into ) Sand both parts ( neck and headstock ) outward away from the open grain instead of into it. Your glue joint will be more stable because the glued grain is clean. Early Jackson Charvel scarf joints never fail like newer ones you might see these days.
YOU ARE THE FIRST PERSON I'VE SEEN TALK ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND IT HAS ALWAYS BOTHERED ME WHEN I SEE PEOPLE SANDING INTO THE SCARF JOINT OR PULLING BACKWARDS WITHN A FILE OR WRASP. IT REALLY DOES MAKE A SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE TO PRESERVE THE LENGTH AND STRENGTH OF THE WOOD FIBERS FOR GLUE UPS, GREAT TIP. BY THE WAY THIS IS NO KNOCK ON FLETCHER HE IS A MASTER BUILDER, JUST A BIT OF KNOWLEDGE GUITAR BUILDERS SHOULD KNOW ABOUT, WE ARE ALL LEARNING EVEN THE MOST SKILLED OF US. THANKS KEVIN HUFF, GREAT TIP. AND THANKS FLETCHER FOR YOUR ALWAYS AMAZING VIDEOS.
Thanks brother. I thought it would serve well. Have an awesome new year.
Very, cool, i would have one comment, why not use 2 right angle toggle clamps in the inside walls to hold the neck blank instead o ftape, great job.
Nice. I've made a similar jig in the past but mounted a router on the part that slides. Guess it went over my head that I can use it for sanding too.
Nice precision work, personally I would have used a slightly larger washer on the slide stop screw knobs.
Great video!! I need to make that jig!!! Thank you! ! Any plans for it?
This one's going to be in my toolbox soon enough. Thanks mate :)
Great, I hope you find it useful. Plans are listed below the video description
David, I have watched all of your videos and the are simply splendid with my preference for the ones where to talk your way through the steps. I have question: When you laminate the body and neck, why don't you use biscuits? They are very common in cabinet and furniture making. What part of down under are you from?
Can't wait for the next video!
Regards,
Rich
NY, USA
Hey Fletch.....once again let me thank you for the videos. I have learned so much from you and I go back and watch again and again and get something else I missed. Now you can probably see this coming, but do you know an outlet for patterns for bodies and necks that can be transferred to wood for the template?? I'm about to try a flying v with a Floyd Rose Tremolo...( I know.....it may take me a couple times to get it right) Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated......Tom
Thank you for this!!!
I cut the angle just outside the line then used the disc sander to sand to the line
Thank you so much.....keep them coming !!!!!
Nice jig, but 13:52 that headstock isn't upside down, or the dark wood isn't the fretboard?
Wouldn't that same jig work with a router? I'd think it would be easy and quick?
Nice jig but was wondering why you don't make a jig to cut a better scarf joint?
For what purpose if the sanding is the cut he could cut it with a hammer if hes got coarse enough paper lol
Great Idea 😁👏👏👏
BRILLIANT
could you do an in depth video on scarf joint necks please?
Hey Fletch,
I have a CAD program and would try and put plans up for you? Let me know?
Rich
Absolutely love these videos :)
Another great video. The real queston on everyone's mind is do they make Full Length pencils in Australia??? lol
hey, a slightly off topic question, but what woodworking machines are absolutely essential for guitar building? router, bandsaw, sander?
This man has jigs for making jigs. All that work so some kid can get a lap top for Christmas and become famous for downloading beats and adding samples to them digitally.
thank you
how did u cut the angle on the bandsaw so straight?
Dave - who makes the laser level your using in the video?
Well nothing is "essential" really, it can all be done by hand but that would be hard work... IMO Bare essential tools would be a handheld router, a jigsaw and some good rasps for shaping the neck... Additional tools that would be nice would be a thicknesser, a jointer , a spindle sander and a bandsaw.
alright, thanks a lot. with the exception of the router i have all this stuff already
Do you think that jig could work with a router, or isn't it safe enough?
Sure, a router would work as well but you need to build a wide base so it can ride on the jig
***** Thanks for the quick reply and thanks for sharing some great ideas.
It's actually hurting my brain thinking of how one would get this to work with a router. You're sanding the blank flush with the rails and the base of the router would have to follow the rails but the blank is higher than that. Seems like a lot more trouble to figure out than just putting some elbow grease on it and sanding it.
Archangel Guitars USA Couldn't you set the face of the neck that is getting routed so it sits behind the rails of the jig? That way the base the router rides on sits flush with the rails, and all you'd have to do is set the router bit deeper to cut the proper angle on the neck. Makes sense to me though I've never done a scarf joint before, and am about to attempt my first one which is why I came to this video
Archangel Guitars USA you'd need a HUGE router bit, I dont think they make em that big for the average consumer lol
Why not just stack the neck and the headstock and sand both at once?
Great jig tho.....
Yup, harder to control 2 pieces together... plus it just takes twice as long to sand anyway... Good thought though...
Guess what Santa is bringing me ?.. ;-)
Bye bye bandsaw blades on mdf.
There is a much easier way to cut a precise scarf joint using a miter saw. Basically the jig clamps onto the miter saw perpendicular to the fence. The jig then has a fence that holds the neck blank at whatever angle you want your scarf joint, in my case 12 degrees. One cut with the miter saw and your done. The jig in this video requires a lot more time and effort to achieve the exact same results.