Thanks for info. Some of my UPVC soffit on the gable end started to collapse. I assumed it was as a result of strong winds. I examined it today expecting to re-nail it but found the old wooden soffit underneath totally rotten and the wooden facia under the UPVC facia rotten. Some of ends of the supporting timbers are rotten also the actual roof tiles (Marley Ludlow type) are all fine and in good condition so I think that a small gap between the tile felt and facia has allowed driving rain to get in. Im only a 72 yr old DIYer, but with the hire of tower and your video I feel confident that I can replace the whole of the gable end myself. I have done a temporary repair which I think will last until the spring when it will be more sensible for me to do the work. Thanks again. VERY helpful
Sounds great mate. I’m sure you’ll do a grand job. Just make sure you have scaffolding up. Can’t really do fascia replacements off a ladder. Stay safe on the job! 😃👍
Good video, I usually get the fascia with the protective plastic that has the guidelines on it, such a time saver for getting the pins level all the way!
Good work. Thinking of doing mine. However roof is metal and cannot remove it. If some rafter ends are rotten how would I repair them ? As less access as removed tiles would give?
Hi and thanks. Yeah well I guess you’ll have to remove the fascia and see what you have. If you do have to replace rafter ends the general rule is whatever the distance is from the wall plate to the rafter end is multiplied by 3 and that’s the length of the timber to fix to the side of your dodgy rafter. But it you can’t remove the roof it may be tricky, never had to do that on a metal roof before but hopefully the fascia not in place will give some access. 🤷♂️ Do your best.
Thanks for your comment. Prices will vary a lot depending on skill and experience of the person doing it, be wary of very cheap prices as at the end of the day you get what you pay for. Look into each contractor for reviews or references for previous work. But average costs would be ball park £120 per meter. But costs can vary a lot depending on the state of the roof line or size of it. Many variables so its not a straight forward question to answer. That’s not including scaffolding .
What holds the eave trays in place? Presumably they shouldn't be pierced with nails, so is it just the weight of the tiles on top, or is there some kind of clip? I had some guttering and rotten fascia replaced a year ago, much like this job, and eave trays were fitted. However the heat of the summer sun has badly warped them, which has caused them to slide forward, blocking most of the gutter. What's the solution to warped eave trays?
@@TehJumpingJawa the video does cover fixing the eaves trays so I would direct you there on that. I have seen eaves trays warp usually because it’s a very thin plastic, most these days are thicker and shouldn’t be a problem. Get some decent ones and should be fine.
@@davesalter ah, my bad, didn't read the on-screen text =) So clout nails through the tray.... I guess my builder didn't lift the bottow row of tiles, and just slid the trays in with no fixings. ☹
Rots only if constantly getting wet over a long time. I use eaves support trays a regular roofing felt membrane. Not sure what eaves felt is? Unless it’s for shingles which we don’t use on domestic houses in the UK.
@@brianemery2119 no I don’t. On the joiner and corner pieces tap lightly and consistently till it’s through, then it wont split. The board itself doesn’t need pilots.
Great video! Could you explain how do you deal with a situation when the old Fascia board is wooden and only about 100mm wide? I’ve got a similar semi detached house to the one from the video and can’t find a fascia board 100mm wide. If I go for a wider one let’s say 175mm then I end up having my soffit lower then my neighbours one and had to do some boxing. Is there another way of doing it? Also will the eaves support tray cause the tiles to go a bit higher resulting in a gap between my last tile and neighbours first one - does this make sense?
You can get 100mm capping board, if the timber is sound it can go over it and fixed with Polytop pins. Failing that get a 150mm and cut it down to the size you need. Eaves trays will not affect tile height to any degree that would be a problem with joining to next door. It’s the new fascia height that may cause that problem. So do it the same height.
Great video. I’m looking to get fascia, soffit and gutter replaced on a side lean-to extension. It’s 5.5 metres long. What sort of price should I be paying? I know someone has asked the question before and you said it varies but any help would be appreciated mate!
@@davesalter O, that makes complete sense mate. Well my quotes came in at £400 (overboard) and £500 (full rip out and new attachments directly on the rafters). These quotes include labour and material. Is it worth getting a second/third quote? Or should I just go with it?
So many variables on this there is no exact answer. Materials plus other costs plus day rate and as needed a profit margin for an expanding business are factors to determine pricing.
Get materials costs from supplier, send lists via email, and add 20% to cover any extras needed, fuel, insurance etc. Work out how many days you will do the job in , if a big job err on the side of an extra day etc. Add your day rate to how many days. As needed add company profits. You learn as you go.
Great video - thanks. Good on you supporting the 90 year old 👏🏼
Thanks. Appreciate it.
Got to help the elderly, I’m sure you’ll get it back in return!!
Hope so. 👍😃
Thanks for info. Some of my UPVC soffit on the gable end started to collapse. I assumed it was as a result of strong winds. I examined it today expecting to re-nail it but found the old wooden soffit underneath totally rotten and the wooden facia under the UPVC facia rotten. Some of ends of the supporting timbers are rotten also the actual roof tiles (Marley Ludlow type) are all fine and in good condition so I think that a small gap between the tile felt and facia has allowed driving rain to get in. Im only a 72 yr old DIYer, but with the hire of tower and your video I feel confident that I can replace the whole of the gable end myself. I have done a temporary repair which I think will last until the spring when it will be more sensible for me to do the work. Thanks again. VERY helpful
Sounds great mate. I’m sure you’ll do a grand job. Just make sure you have scaffolding up. Can’t really do fascia replacements off a ladder. Stay safe on the job! 😃👍
@@davesalter yup, going to hire a tower.
@@davesalterhow much does a fascia replacement cost? Like the one you made? Thanks and great job!!!
Great video, Bless You for helping 90 year old.
@@petergriffin1672 thank you. 👍
Good video, I usually get the fascia with the protective plastic that has the guidelines on it, such a time saver for getting the pins level all the way!
Yeah that is useful. Thanks 👍
Decent job there and well demonstrated …no ego either. A credit to your craft sir
@@britishbluetess thank you mate, glad it was helpful. 👍
Little tip I fit these myself and using backing board(6x1 timber) gives it a longer lasting life even with the eaves trays
Great video thank you has helped me a lot I’d have panicked lifting tiles and finding rotten felt now I know about the trays to deflect the water
You’re welcome 😊
this was great!
Nice video with good information on the repair, 💪
Great video
Thanks!
Thank you soo much. Ino what I need to do now
Thank you - this really wws informative 👍🏻
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. 👍
When Safestyle did mine many years ago the guys put the new plastic skirt OVER the felt not under it!
Tut tut 🙈
@@davesalter fine, I didn't pay them all the money either!
Good work. Thinking of doing mine. However roof is metal and cannot remove it. If some rafter ends are rotten how would I repair them ? As less access as removed tiles would give?
Hi and thanks. Yeah well I guess you’ll have to remove the fascia and see what you have. If you do have to replace rafter ends the general rule is whatever the distance is from the wall plate to the rafter end is multiplied by 3 and that’s the length of the timber to fix to the side of your dodgy rafter. But it you can’t remove the roof it may be tricky, never had to do that on a metal roof before but hopefully the fascia not in place will give some access. 🤷♂️ Do your best.
Thank you has given me an idea to tackle this one myself
Is it possible to do this process but without removing any tiles?
Thanks
@@JoeNoakes-ne1pv not really, would be pretty difficult and putting fascia up tiles will be in the way. Also can’t fit a eaves tray.
Amazing work, thank you for sharing the knowledge, may I please ask how much is the cost to replacing fascia and soffit bya professional?
Thanks
Thanks for your comment. Prices will vary a lot depending on skill and experience of the person doing it, be wary of very cheap prices as at the end of the day you get what you pay for. Look into each contractor for reviews or references for previous work. But average costs would be ball park £120 per meter. But costs can vary a lot depending on the state of the roof line or size of it. Many variables so its not a straight forward question to answer. That’s not including scaffolding .
How much would something like this job cost and did you do another video on how to cut the raftet woods ie the 45 degree cuts if needed. Thanks
What holds the eave trays in place?
Presumably they shouldn't be pierced with nails, so is it just the weight of the tiles on top, or is there some kind of clip?
I had some guttering and rotten fascia replaced a year ago, much like this job, and eave trays were fitted.
However the heat of the summer sun has badly warped them, which has caused them to slide forward, blocking most of the gutter.
What's the solution to warped eave trays?
@@TehJumpingJawa the video does cover fixing the eaves trays so I would direct you there on that. I have seen eaves trays warp usually because it’s a very thin plastic, most these days are thicker and shouldn’t be a problem. Get some decent ones and should be fine.
@@davesalter ah, my bad, didn't read the on-screen text =)
So clout nails through the tray.... I guess my builder didn't lift the bottow row of tiles, and just slid the trays in with no fixings. ☹
What holds the lowest row of tiles in place? There is no batten to hook them on to.
There is batten there. Have another look bud.
Do the eves trays have to overlap?
Yes they do, about 100mm.
I would imagine the wood behind most plastic fascia's is rotten. Once it's wet it will never dry out. Do you use eaves felt at all?
Rots only if constantly getting wet over a long time. I use eaves support trays a regular roofing felt membrane. Not sure what eaves felt is? Unless it’s for shingles which we don’t use on domestic houses in the UK.
Do you pilot for those white headed fixings/nails
@@brianemery2119 no I don’t. On the joiner and corner pieces tap lightly and consistently till it’s through, then it wont split. The board itself doesn’t need pilots.
How much was it to do this job
Great video! Could you explain how do you deal with a situation when the old
Fascia board is wooden and only about 100mm wide? I’ve got a similar semi detached house to the one from the video and can’t find a fascia board 100mm wide. If I go for a wider one let’s say 175mm then I end up having my soffit lower then my neighbours one and had to do some boxing. Is there another way of doing it? Also will the eaves support tray cause the tiles to go a bit higher resulting in a gap between my last tile and neighbours first one - does this make sense?
You can get 100mm capping board, if the timber is sound it can go over it and fixed with Polytop pins. Failing that get a 150mm and cut it down to the size you need.
Eaves trays will not affect tile height to any degree that would be a problem with joining to next door. It’s the new fascia height that may cause that problem. So do it the same height.
Great! Thanks so much for a quick response. Too man
Great video. I’m looking to get fascia, soffit and gutter replaced on a side lean-to extension. It’s 5.5 metres long. What sort of price should I be paying? I know someone has asked the question before and you said it varies but any help would be appreciated mate!
Sorry but I can’t price a job without seeing it. Too many variables. I don’t price jobs like that without seeing it for my own customers.
@@davesalter O, that makes complete sense mate. Well my quotes came in at £400 (overboard) and £500 (full rip out and new attachments directly on the rafters). These quotes include labour and material. Is it worth getting a second/third quote? Or should I just go with it?
@@waseemahmed9494 sounds fair to me mate 🤷♂️
@@davesalter Thanks, I’ll go for it!
Nooice!
👍😉
What would a job of this size cost roughly
So many variables on this there is no exact answer. Materials plus other costs plus day rate and as needed a profit margin for an expanding business are factors to determine pricing.
Roughly how much would you quote a job like this mate I'm self employed doing the same work, but always struggle on pricing.
Get materials costs from supplier, send lists via email, and add 20% to cover any extras needed, fuel, insurance etc. Work out how many days you will do the job in , if a big job err on the side of an extra day etc. Add your day rate to how many days. As needed add company profits. You learn as you go.
I would have done it for free!!🤷🏽♀️
Yeah next time I’ll do it for free with a life time supply of mince pies. 👍