Matt Risinger uses the sausage tubes. You don’t have to cut off the end… just pierce the end several times (4-5). Then put three cap on and there will be enough open surface area to allow for seepage. Makes way less of a mess.
Looks like you guys had fun learning from your trial and errors. Thanks a lot for all the tips and introducing the new handy tools. At least they're new to me.
8:10 how about wrapping some duct tape around the end, not all the way to the edge, so you don't get splinters? Do that on both edges you plan to strike with the hammer.
To avoid tearout when using the jigsaw try putting duct tape over where you need to cut. Alternatively buy a pack of laminate blades for the jigsaw. These cut on the downstroke instead of the upstroke.
Don't measure. Place the board that needs to be cut exactly on top of the board that is in place. Take a scrap board, same width, and use that to mark the cut. Use a square to figure the length of the cut. If you are cutting a jamb, make several marks. Not sure if this makes sense, but it works for all vinal, wood plank, and ceramic installations. It has worked for me for years, and I just finished the hallway and living room of my latest home. Since it is finish work, there will probably trim, so don't sweat the small stuff.
A solution for the disadvantage to the pro tip you gave us about getting splinters from hitting the board too much. What if you guys tape the end of the board where you are hitting it? Should stop splinters from happening. I would think.
How impressed were the Perkins guys with the cordless staple gun after using it? Knowing how many times the air lead gets dragged through the glue on an average daily Perkins vid (or Erik standing in the glue!!!) Erik, try using a good sharp set of side cutters for your sausage gun ends. Not only is a clean cut but you only need one hand to open it. Try building a 75ft boats every day where you can use 10-12 cases of sausages and you soon find a better way...!!! Lastly who else thinks that the Perkins crew are just the nicest, funniest guys to work with! Honestly even the most crap jobs can be made better with the best people around you
You can get a cheap flooring jack for the last few rows at lumber liquidators. I paid $15 for it a few years back and it’s still going strong after at least 100 floors
I put this type of flooring in my Kitchen 30 years ago with all glue. When the dishwasher flooded it ruined it near the dishwasher. Luckily I had dual subfloor 1/2 OSB with 5/8 Ply on top. I cut the floor and ply into 1 foot squares and pried the floor and the plywood up to replace the floor. I now have tile.
Glazier for years, I just whack the end of the tube on the toe part of my boots, a couple times and the metal ring comes right off. No dirty knife blade.
Glazier as well, do it every day like that. Only ever seen it go wrong once on a guy, he whacked it too hard and it broke in the middle over his boot on a finished floor 🥲
What is the brand/stain color of the engineered flooring you used and where did you obtain it? I'm looking for5" engineered hardwood in a light brown color which looks a lot like what you have here.
Nice work, You don't comment on why use engineered hardwood instead of hardwood. Is the engineered wood cheaper? I have used it on a concrete slab before but not a timber subfloor.
It is typically cheaper, but I like how dimensionally stable it is compared to hardwood. Every board was dead flat so installation was really easy. You can't sand and refinish as many times but I don't see myself really doing that anyway.
Wondering why you didn’t use a thin underlay to reduce walking noise or echo & a standard nailer. Also if you flip the jigsaw upside down & cut from below this prevents the surface from chipping.
They also make down cut blades where the teeth angle is opposite to an up cut blade should you feel you don’t want to break your wrists using this method 😂
Flooring's dirty little secret is how to get those pieces installed in those weird places since the angles and directions are near impossible to do. haha
If you glue the floor and nail it why do you need a gap for the working, shrinking or expand of wood ??? It's so stuck to the underfloor it can't move or shrink or expand or i'm thinking wrong ??
Isn't it unnecessarily when you nail and glue? I would either glue OR nail it. Here in Germany it is also common to lay it floating, without gluing and nailing.
The tongue on this material isn't very thick and the staples can pull through over time. Adding the glue is really just a little added insurance and doesn't add much work to the install.
Good planning ... clean clean. It's been an incredible series this build. This Not So Tiny House series has everything someone would need to know
Pair of snips instead of a knife for the sausage 👌🏻 looking awesome guys, great video
Matt Risinger uses the sausage tubes. You don’t have to cut off the end… just pierce the end several times (4-5). Then put three cap on and there will be enough open surface area to allow for seepage. Makes way less of a mess.
Good tip!
Great video. It's always nice to see someone else struggle with something that should be simple. Fitting that last bit can be a serious pain.
Yup, those last boards are always the hardest!
Looks like you guys had fun learning from your trial and errors. Thanks a lot for all the tips and introducing the new handy tools. At least they're new to me.
Yup, it was a pretty fun job! Glad you enjoyed.
8:10 how about wrapping some duct tape around the end, not all the way to the edge, so you don't get splinters? Do that on both edges you plan to strike with the hammer.
Good idea!
Also makes it clear when which end/edge to use for striking.
Easy tip for the sausage claulk. Cut them with your tin snips. Make it Cleanner
Good tip!
Superb look and it’s been a delight following the series too
Thanks man!
To avoid tearout when using the jigsaw try putting duct tape over where you need to cut. Alternatively buy a pack of laminate blades for the jigsaw. These cut on the downstroke instead of the upstroke.
Jono is a super genius. I love Eric, but sometimes that man’s a goober.
Hah, they're both great guys!
This is interesting to see a different perspective coming from someone who does this type of work. Nice video
Thanks Jason!
Great video. Nice to see you working on the tiny house again!
Yea man, can't wait to get it wrapped up!
Don't measure. Place the board that needs to be cut exactly on top of the board that is in place. Take a scrap board, same width, and use that to mark the cut. Use a square to figure the length of the cut. If you are cutting a jamb, make several marks. Not sure if this makes sense, but it works for all vinal, wood plank, and ceramic installations. It has worked for me for years, and I just finished the hallway and living room of my latest home. Since it is finish work, there will probably trim, so don't sweat the small stuff.
A solution for the disadvantage to the pro tip you gave us about getting splinters from hitting the board too much. What if you guys tape the end of the board where you are hitting it? Should stop splinters from happening. I would think.
Good idea!
That flooring jack looks amazing - I’m doing 1300 feet of LVP right now…
It's pretty sweet, although I'm not sure how it'd work on LVP!
@@craftedworkshop should work exactly the same, otherwise we're just stuck with those pull bars you hammer on.
How impressed were the Perkins guys with the cordless staple gun after using it? Knowing how many times the air lead gets dragged through the glue on an average daily Perkins vid (or Erik standing in the glue!!!)
Erik, try using a good sharp set of side cutters for your sausage gun ends. Not only is a clean cut but you only need one hand to open it. Try building a 75ft boats every day where you can use 10-12 cases of sausages and you soon find a better way...!!!
Lastly who else thinks that the Perkins crew are just the nicest, funniest guys to work with! Honestly even the most crap jobs can be made better with the best people around you
Definitely win the coolest shirt award lol
You can get a cheap flooring jack for the last few rows at lumber liquidators. I paid $15 for it a few years back and it’s still going strong after at least 100 floors
Can’t wait to see how you fix your over it on the bathroom door frame.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I put this type of flooring in my Kitchen 30 years ago with all glue. When the dishwasher flooded it ruined it near the dishwasher. Luckily I had dual subfloor 1/2 OSB with 5/8 Ply on top. I cut the floor and ply into 1 foot squares and pried the floor and the plywood up to replace the floor. I now have tile.
Ouch, that's rough! I'm going to have a few water sensors in the tiny house so I can hopefully avoid something similar happening.
Fantastic, Johnny! It's really looking beautiful in there! 😃
You guys did an amazing work!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you! Will do!
What is the flooring product (engineered hardwood) you used? Mostly interested in the thickness dimension. Thanks.
Glazier for years, I just whack the end of the tube on the toe part of my boots, a couple times and the metal ring comes right off. No dirty knife blade.
Good tip!
Glazier as well, do it every day like that. Only ever seen it go wrong once on a guy, he whacked it too hard and it broke in the middle over his boot on a finished floor 🥲
A tip to your pro tip of using a offcut to use to hammer in the board tight without splinters is to cover the ends you hit with duct tape.
Good tip!
Very nice is a power jack.
Love this one for sure - great info
Great job man!
Thanks!
What is the brand/stain color of the engineered flooring you used and where did you obtain it? I'm looking for5" engineered hardwood in a light brown color which looks a lot like what you have here.
Almost at a million...well deserved Johnny.
Thanks, hope to be there by the end of the year!
flip the jigsaw upside down. hold the board the same way. easier to see the line and no tearout :)
what floor did you use? can you give me a link. thanks
Nice work, You don't comment on why use engineered hardwood instead of hardwood. Is the engineered wood cheaper? I have used it on a concrete slab before but not a timber subfloor.
It is typically cheaper, but I like how dimensionally stable it is compared to hardwood. Every board was dead flat so installation was really easy. You can't sand and refinish as many times but I don't see myself really doing that anyway.
Dewalt makes that same flooring nailer in a pneumatic version too. My boss just picked up a new one
Nice to know, I work through my palm pounding on the other style of nailer I have last time I installed hardwood.
Wondering why you didn’t use a thin underlay to reduce walking noise or echo & a standard nailer. Also if you flip the jigsaw upside down & cut from below this prevents the surface from chipping.
They also make down cut blades where the teeth angle is opposite to an up cut blade should you feel you don’t want to break your wrists using this method 😂
Use a pair of tin snips to cut the tip of the sausages off! Easiest way I’ve found haha
Great tip!
"Babe wake up, there's a new episode of Crafted Workshop"
😂
Hermoso trabajo 👊saludos desde chile 👍 👏
Olá de Portugal!
Gracias!
The tool you use to cut the tip off the sausage gun...scissors!
I've been using sausage chauktubes for 23 years, you need a pair of side cutters never a miss.
Good idea!
If only all contractors are as laid back and entertaining as the PBB....
No kidding!
Good
Just one question, where can I get a wood work wu tang shirt?!
Muy buena clavadora
Don't you have click system floors?
Since the planks are both glued and stapled, how can you easily replace a damaged plank in the future?
What is a pivot hinge door?
Is there an exact name or number for this specific flooring?
Do you guys apply something over the boards to prevent damages from splashes in the kitchen ? ( Sorry broken english here, not native )
The boards are pre-finished so any spills can be wiped up.
Wow this is an awesome video
Thanks!
More workshop vids 🤪
You don't have to cut the tip off the sausage tube. Just poke it a few times with a nail or screw. Throw the nail away.
Good idea!
Just curious Johnny, Why no underlay?
You answered my question in the video. LOL
Hah, glad to see you continued watching 😜
Flooring's dirty little secret is how to get those pieces installed in those weird places since the angles and directions are near impossible to do. haha
If you glue the floor and nail it why do you need a gap for the working, shrinking or expand of wood ??? It's so stuck to the underfloor it can't move or shrink or expand or i'm thinking wrong ??
The adhesive has some flexibility to allow for expansion.
Kitchen scissors for cutting the tubes
Great idea!
You actually only need to stick the knife in the glue. you don't need to cut it of.
10:55 scissors.
yay new vid
Woohoo!
Isn't it unnecessarily when you nail and glue? I would either glue OR nail it. Here in Germany it is also common to lay it floating, without gluing and nailing.
The tongue on this material isn't very thick and the staples can pull through over time. Adding the glue is really just a little added insurance and doesn't add much work to the install.
Sausage Caulk Machine? How'd you guys know my nickname?
😂
Eric is cools as shit, haha.
He's a funny dude!
I was just saying I think you forgot about the tiny house with all the shop building.
Why are u gluing the boards at all?
Just some added insurance to make sure the boards don't loosen up over time.
Hey Johnny
Hello there!
Nice but WHAT? Why didn't you raise the floor at the bathroom? That's going to heart the FEET,.
The transition is about 1/4" with the ramped edge built in to the trim piece. Super smooth.
Hi
Math….
Not going to lie, I still don't like the plywood walls.
Cool, I do like them so that's all that really matters!