Serviced similar on the GE refrigerator with this ice block hitting and stopping the fan, after using a steamer to defrost the ice block , used Armaflex or similar to wrap the incoming lines and cable tie tight, where it builds up ice to insulate the tubing from from drawing moisture to it, seemed to work well. The problem I think stems from the defrost time shutting off the heater with the thermistor is satisfied while not warming the area where the lines come in allowing the build up over months to grow. John
My Samsung fridge model is a RS265TDRS (April 2011). It was working until one day the evaporator and fan are covered with ice. I attempt to defrost the ice using a hair dryer. Unfortunately, as I removed the evaporator cover, the Styrofoam housing for the evaporator is broken in many places. I spend sometimes hot glue repair the Styrofoam, but it’s still heavily damaged. After I put them back together, power up the unit, the freezer and fridge temperature are not as cold as the indicator on the front panel. For instance, it said -10 F (freezer) and 36 F (fridge) when it’s actually 42 F (freezer) and 56 F (fridge). The temperature inside the unit is warmer than what the temperature indicated on the front panel screen. I wonder if the damaged/broken Styrofoam housing is causing this. Has anybody experienced the same issue? Please post your suggestion for repair. Thank you!
Hi, customcruiseroy. My new expanded video goes into detail about how to remove the fan blades. See ua-cam.com/video/dwezQ60AUdc/v-deo.html Best wishes!
Thanks! I changed the fan. It still didn't work. So, I changed the computer board. It not only doesn't work, now the digital numbers on the display don't light up. And all I did was a literal R&R. Ugh!! Maybe bad wire? I have no idea.
I am so sorry about your plight, and wish I had some advice. If you are a religious person I would suggest prayer - it has worked for me in difficult quandaries. Take care.
Hi, I like your video. I have the same problem with the fan. Do you happen to know what is the white wire is for? The red wire is hot, and the black is neutral, but I have no idea what is the white wire is for. Lots of fans just came with two wire, two pin wiring. Thanks!
Freeman Hsu I believe it's either a tachometer _output_ (return) so the motherboard can tell how fast it's going....OR more likely it's a PWM _input_ coming from the motherboard for speed control, usually the same dc voltage (can be + or -) but switched on and off at a rate (frequency) that the internal fan board reads and controls the motor speed from there. With 4 wires I believe it just means it has both a PWM input for speed control and a return tachometer output with I believe basically another PWM-type signal via a couple different ways, e.g. a 'hall sensor'. I could be wrong about some of the details, I'm not an expert but I do dabble with some of this. It can definitely confusing for sure and hard to find solid info just for understanding any of it much less fixing it, lol.
Don't let this nut repair your appliances. ALWAYS unplug your refrigerators. PERIOD. The fan is easy to remove. First remove the 4 screws that hold the fan to the body. Disconnect the harness. Remove the fan from the motor with a pair of needle nose and save the spring keeper. This will expose 2 screws that will allow you to pull the motor from the housing. Take the motor to your nearest appliance part dealer. They are very common.
Kinda tricky? Above the filter housing there are two clips about 3/8" x 1/2, about an inch or so under the shelf. You can see them when you look from either side of the refrigerator towards the water filter pillar. While pressing them together press the shelf down a little to ease the pressure on the clips, then lift the front edge of the shelf and it will detach from the water filter housing. The front edge swings up vertically, while the back edge stays in place. To detach the back edge the front edge needs to be raised There are two clips on the back edge of the shelf that engage the vertical panel (the one you want to remove to get at the evaporator fan). Once four screws, two on the lower edge, and two that hold the shelf bracket in place, the evaporator cover swings out from the bottom. Just a note - My Note - Comments that answer these questions with ancillary comments that do not provide a useful answer to a question should be removed. They just waste everyone's time.
Hi, J Ice. I am so sorry for posting such a cursory video. I just posted a longer version that goes into much more detail. It is a playlist at ua-cam.com/video/dwezQ60AUdc/v-deo.html I hope that link works - I am as much an amateur at UA-cam as I am at refrigerator repair - but if I can do it then pretty much ANYONE can do it :-)
Serviced similar on the GE refrigerator with this ice block hitting and stopping the fan, after using a steamer to defrost the ice block , used Armaflex or similar to wrap the incoming lines and cable tie tight, where it builds up ice to insulate the tubing from from drawing moisture to it, seemed to work well. The problem I think stems from the defrost time shutting off the heater with the thermistor is satisfied while not warming the area where the lines come in allowing the build up over months to grow. John
How did you open the cover of the evaporator motor with the screws inward. Working on a rs265 model and dont want to damage it
I’m watching this during Professor Sampson’s class 😎 on the classroom’ projector 🔥🔥🔥 follow him and like!
This is literally the best video I have ever seen. This man is a genius. How are we so blessed with this man upon the earth?? #blessed
Thanks
My Samsung fridge model is a RS265TDRS (April 2011). It was working until one day the evaporator and fan are covered with ice. I attempt to defrost the ice using a hair dryer. Unfortunately, as I removed the evaporator cover, the Styrofoam housing for the evaporator is broken in many places. I spend sometimes hot glue repair the Styrofoam, but it’s still heavily damaged. After I put them back together, power up the unit, the freezer and fridge temperature are not as cold as the indicator on the front panel. For instance, it said -10 F (freezer) and 36 F (fridge) when it’s actually 42 F (freezer) and 56 F (fridge). The temperature inside the unit is warmer than what the temperature indicated on the front panel screen. I wonder if the damaged/broken Styrofoam housing is causing this. Has anybody experienced the same issue? Please post your suggestion for repair. Thank you!
MY issue is how do you remove the fan blades from motor in a way that you don't snap the fan blades? Thanks!
Hi, customcruiseroy. My new expanded video goes into detail about how to remove the fan blades. See ua-cam.com/video/dwezQ60AUdc/v-deo.html
Best wishes!
Thanks! I changed the fan. It still didn't work. So, I changed the computer board. It not only doesn't work, now the digital numbers on the display don't light up. And all I did was a literal R&R. Ugh!! Maybe bad wire? I have no idea.
I am so sorry about your plight, and wish I had some advice. If you are a religious person I would suggest prayer - it has worked for me in difficult quandaries. Take care.
Hi, I like your video. I have the same problem with the fan. Do you happen to know what is the white wire is for? The red wire is hot, and the black is neutral, but I have no idea what is the white wire is for. Lots of fans just came with two wire, two pin wiring. Thanks!
I am sorry, but I do not know what the white wire is for, and I do not have a manual. Hopefully some other viewer will have the answer.
Freeman Hsu
I believe it's either a tachometer _output_ (return) so the motherboard can tell how fast it's going....OR more likely it's a PWM _input_ coming from the motherboard for speed control, usually the same dc voltage (can be + or -) but switched on and off at a rate (frequency) that the internal fan board reads and controls the motor speed from there. With 4 wires I believe it just means it has both a PWM input for speed control and a return tachometer output with I believe basically another PWM-type signal via a couple different ways, e.g. a 'hall sensor'.
I could be wrong about some of the details, I'm not an expert but I do dabble with some of this. It can definitely confusing for sure and hard to find solid info just for understanding any of it much less fixing it, lol.
HOw did you remove the shelf with the water filter in it?
Did you ever get your shelf out? I figured it out today when working on our Samsung.
Don't let this nut repair your appliances. ALWAYS unplug your refrigerators. PERIOD. The fan is easy to remove. First remove the 4 screws that hold the fan to the body. Disconnect the harness. Remove the fan from the motor with a pair of needle nose and save the spring keeper. This will expose 2 screws that will allow you to pull the motor from the housing. Take the motor to your nearest appliance part dealer. They are very common.
Kinda tricky? Above the filter housing there are two clips about 3/8" x 1/2, about an inch or so under the shelf. You can see them when you look from either side of the refrigerator towards the water filter pillar. While pressing them together press the shelf down a little to ease the pressure on the clips, then lift the front edge of the shelf and it will detach from the water filter housing. The front edge swings up vertically, while the back edge stays in place. To detach the back edge the front edge needs to be raised There are two clips on the back edge of the shelf that engage the vertical panel (the one you want to remove to get at the evaporator fan). Once four screws, two on the lower edge, and two that hold the shelf bracket in place, the evaporator cover swings out from the bottom.
Just a note - My Note - Comments that answer these questions with ancillary comments that do not provide a useful answer to a question should be removed. They just waste everyone's time.
I think me new video shows that - see the link above in the description. Sorry for the horribly delayed reply.
What's the part number for just the fan? Thanks
AP4135471
It is a Samsung DA31-00146B Motor Assembly. I buy them on Amazon for about $30.
Yeah but you don't show how to actually do it..
Hi, J Ice. I am so sorry for posting such a cursory video. I just posted a longer version that goes into much more detail. It is a playlist at ua-cam.com/video/dwezQ60AUdc/v-deo.html
I hope that link works - I am as much an amateur at UA-cam as I am at refrigerator repair - but if I can do it then pretty much ANYONE can do it :-)