Nice! They really should lower the historic license plate requirement to 10 years for BMW and Mercedes. If you can keep one running that long, you deserve to be recognized.
That's an unfair statement considering 80% of the users of these machines are recumbent morons who are unable to follow even the most basic instructions, that and junk yards ripe full of part from every US manufacturer in EU where we just take the parts for whatever survives the first 3 years in use. It's kinda funny how i've never been "taxed" more than 5 British pounds for most of them regardless of what they are.
I actually live now in Europe and truth is that its more or less accepted here that VW's, especially small ones, last 10 years at most. I have had myself 4 German cars now (3 VW, 1 BMW), after moving here and must admit the Japanese cars, which I had in North America (Honda, Toyota, Subaru), were a dream. I put it very simple, German cars need 4-5 times more maintenance, than Japanese cars do.
Thats about how long the brake lines last and the way the front ones are mounted it's never worthwhile economically to have them changed since you almost have to have the engine out of the car to get to them. they planned it like that since you have allready owned the car 3 times as long as they planned for you to own it. If your gonna make it crappy at least make it easy to work on like peugeot.
My 17 year old BMW went through about $5,000 in parts alone this last 12 months. $2k of that was upgrades, like a lightweight flywheel and lowering springs, sport shocks, and beefy sway bars.
So glad you got a mini. Coming from a no-DIY background my wifes mini has forced me to learn how to change alternators, belts, fluids, etc etc. I dont really like them. Now she has the Mini Countryman so.....if you could make a complete series on everything about them to save me the fortune in repairs that I am imagining I would be grateful! (no rush.........!!!!) ;o)
I don't even own a Mini Cooper but this video makes me want to own one! Just the fact that Eric is covering whole lot about this car is tempting me to go find a nice used one. Thanks Eric
I always enjoy your videos. As an owner of the same vic.It's always good to have someone to take their time showing all the steps and inform the size of bolts and srews taking out the guess work. Thanks again drive on drive strong
Hey Eric, been following you since your early days, really missed ya when you went offline, but i understand! Good to have you back, your videos are great and very therapeutic! You should come make a trip to NZ! Keep it up!
Great video Eric. This one started out as a little puzzler. The chrome looks better, I think, it looks a lot more like the rest of the trim package. Thanks for sharing and God bless
It would be nice if astral didn't just ban anyone who does not agree with him 100%...... Constructive criticism is good! That is how we all get better.
jake, we just BAN trolls, and when a troll apologizes for disrupting our channel, we unBAN them. That's fair, right? You heard that old saying, "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all".
in my opinion trolls should be banned, however, I am still awaiting a reply on why I have been banned from AAR since my channel and comments do not contain any troll material
Thanks! Been fighting the same issue in my Fiat 500 where I originally suspected the actuator which was incorrect. I assumed it was the switch which is almost identical. On to test and hopefully repair. Thanks again!!
The title has some trigger for dyslexia in there. It took about 3 sips of coffee this morning for me to be able to read it and 5 to understand it. Awesome job fixing the rear hatch that won't latch. How many hatches could you latch if your hatch could latch?
Nice troubleshooting! Had a similar problem on an 09 VW Golf (or Rabbit). The root cause was a distended spring inside the latch assembly that was preventing the mechanism from working properly. Couldn't replace the spring, had to buy a new assembly.
I have the same problem - but found this link when someone simply removes and cleans the microswitch rather than replace the whole unit. www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178411-hatch-release-button-fix.html
Hey eric i like your vids. I have a question i recently pulled a motor to a 93 ford ranger to swap freeze plugs had it on pulley hoist dropped it back in changed oil engine had lots of sludge now engine knocks can oil pump be clogged
Eric, when the latch stops latching.. try to push the trunk release button (when you get it fixed).. it should click back to normal position to hold close the hatch. I’ve seen this on BMW’s for years.. on my 328 I’ll go to shut the trunk.. it won’t latch sometimes so I have to press the release.. all good.
That connector is a TE Micro Quadlock System (MQS), the locking mechanism is one small protrusion mating into an small hole, this does not provide much force and you can usually pull them apart with your hands. If you do need to use a tool you can slip a small screwdriver between the male and female connectors on the side with the hole.
These videos are making me even more set in my ways that the quality of the era of those two Acuras in the background, is pretty much the best ever in the history of vehicles. Not to mention they're fun as hell to drive.
Time will tell. But I personally think that today's cars aren't going to be faring much better than this Mini in 11 years. They're plastic pieces of shit covered in assists and sensors because 99.9% of the population can't fucking drive. And all of these parts are going to wear out a lot faster and cost exponentially more to repair than the simple mechanical parts of 90's Hondas, and people are going to get rid of their cars they paid twice as much for twice as fast. Or, you know, not. We have to wait and see.
Yeah, their gas pedals will get stuck and kill people instead. They're made in America now, which is like American cars being made in China. You can't have the quality control you usually have when your shit is being made halfway across the world. Anything else?
I have a 2010 mini Cooper clubman it has the milk truck doors in the back and it will not open with the key Farb or with the latch on the door it supposed to open right door first left or second and it was working fine and then one day just wouldn’t work at all I thought maybe there was a pull cord under the seat but there is not any info would be greatly appreciated
Ha Ha i had the same problem, its sorted now, do you know there is a cable release under the rear passenger seat for the hatch, pull the seat up and there it is....great videos....
Nice one! Specialy as i was wrong!!!! Brown is allways ground(as ground is brown if you think it), that other end of 3-pin. connector is always power and middle is allways signal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So something has change here for normal german 3-pin. plugs...
Those first 3 little plastic pins you pried out, if you just push the center "button" inward, it will release the tension and you can just pull them out with your fingers. No pry tools needed! They work sort of like a drywall anchor, but in reverse.
How can the probe distinguish between a ground side and power side? Why did it not get a signal for the open light circuit? The switch circuits were open too how did it know one was ground and one was power when there is no current traveling on either side due to it being open since the switch wasn’t engaged??
Rear hatch weather cover (rubber piece covering the latch switch) becomes brittle and falls apart overtime. You can replace it by following how Eric replaced it in this video.
Just pulled my latch apart on my R53. The little plastic white part that cycles back and forth was jammed and would not latch closed. Seems like something inside broke and jammed the white plastic actuator. Freed it up and now it works every second time, as it still binds and gets stuck to the right of center. Mine was also missing the metal and actuates the microswitch on the motor assembly. Have a new actuator on the way. $60 off Amazon.
Hey i got 04 mini and i have the same issue . i tried the electrical tester on the trunk button cable shown in the video. The tester beeps on both the ground and lights (middle connection) but when i apply negative to the positive it doesn’t do anything . What does that mean? and what should i do next ?
@ericthecarguy Eric! I'm gonna do an oil change on someone's 2008 Hyundai Tiburon with a little less than 90,000 miles. The engine seems healthy and has no leaks. The person has been using conventional for probably the majority of the car's life and they have kept up withoil changes. In your opinion, with these conditions, would you say if it's a good idea to drain/ change the oil and replace it with Full Synthetic (probably Mobil1 ) ????? Let me know what you think! Thanks.
That finicky issue will go away if you replace the electronic latch. That’s what I had to do in the end with mine because eventually it stopped releasing even thou the buttons worked ok. Also that cable is the emergency release, you’ll find the other end under the back seat.
I'm surprised he didn't clean out the latch assembly with WD-40 or another solvent then re-grease it. Surely some of the randomness of the latch failure could be caused by dirt.
I would love to do that on mine I can't get the ticket open to work on my vehicle is there a manual is there a manual override for the for the rear lock open it
this is a "Money Pit" car but makes a great subject for repair videos as it will need lots of that. My guess is that replacement hatch switch was very expensive.
Does anyone know if the r56 has automatic rear lift gate capabilities ? Is there a sensor located under the rear bumper I’m not aware of ? Mine randomly pops open. It’s a 2013.
Hi Eric, i have r50 and r53. On my r50 when i turn on key my backlights (position and break lights) turn on and i cant lights turn off until key turn off...sensor on break is good...do you know where is problem?
my rear hatch acts similar to this. If you lift up a little when you pop the hatch it will shut nicely. If you dont you have to depress the open button on the FOB then the rear hatch will shut properly. Not sure, but it looks like someone knocked my rear bumper...maybe its just misaligned now.
What sensors that the latch is open? My latch closes and everything but once I brake at stop light a sound comes on like "boonk" telling me the latch is open. It happens every time I brake and take off.
I had kind of the same problem with a vw derby. The trunk didn't latch. The reason: the locking part had a plastic cover from factory, once that plastic wears out it didn't latch because didnt push it all the way. The solution... I started putting tape on the metal thing that goes in the locking part. Until it got thick enough. The replace with a more permanent solution. Just keep the solution not metallic so it absorbs part of the hiting force when closing the trunk
Good video but i think i would have simulated the door latch lock with the screwdriver first, and tested the button/fob operation before taking the lock apart.
Nice! They really should lower the historic license plate requirement to 10 years for BMW and Mercedes. If you can keep one running that long, you deserve to be recognized.
ScubaCat3 as a beginner car mechanic i can agree with your statement
That's an unfair statement considering 80% of the users of these machines are recumbent morons who are unable to follow even the most basic instructions, that and junk yards ripe full of part from every US manufacturer in EU where we just take the parts for whatever survives the first 3 years in use. It's kinda funny how i've never been "taxed" more than 5 British pounds for most of them regardless of what they are.
I actually live now in Europe and truth is that its more or less accepted here that VW's, especially small ones, last 10 years at most. I have had myself 4 German cars now (3 VW, 1 BMW), after moving here and must admit the Japanese cars, which I had in North America (Honda, Toyota, Subaru), were a dream. I put it very simple, German cars need 4-5 times more maintenance, than Japanese cars do.
Thats about how long the brake lines last and the way the front ones are mounted it's never worthwhile economically to have them changed since you almost have to have the engine out of the car to get to them. they planned it like that since you have allready owned the car 3 times as long as they planned for you to own it. If your gonna make it crappy at least make it easy to work on like peugeot.
My 17 year old BMW went through about $5,000 in parts alone this last 12 months. $2k of that was upgrades, like a lightweight flywheel and lowering springs, sport shocks, and beefy sway bars.
Good work keep it up, DIY tubers are my favs, you get all sorts of different ideas from different people and we all grow together, keep it up bro!!
So glad you got a mini. Coming from a no-DIY background my wifes mini has forced me to learn how to change alternators, belts, fluids, etc etc. I dont really like them. Now she has the Mini Countryman so.....if you could make a complete series on everything about them to save me the fortune in repairs that I am imagining I would be grateful! (no rush.........!!!!) ;o)
I don't even own a Mini Cooper but this video makes me want to own one! Just the fact that Eric is covering whole lot about this car is tempting me to go find a nice used one. Thanks Eric
too expensive for such a cheap quality
In my opinion, this is Eric at his best. I really enjoyed the diagnostic process.
Q
I always enjoy your videos. As an owner of the same vic.It's always good to have someone to take their time showing all the steps and inform the size of bolts and srews taking out the guess work. Thanks again drive on drive strong
I have the same problem with my Daughter's Cooper R56. I feel well equipped to tackle the job now. Thanks ETCG
Had to get my sunglasses in order to re-watch the video. The new chrome piece is bling-bling.
Excellent ... electrical issues are always problematic ... just watching your logic finding the problem is extremely helpful , thank you
Great video - I was going potty trying to get the boot lid to close - your tips proved excellent. Solved it in 30 seconds!
your old videos still helping us out brother! timeless lol
The two straight pins idea helped me figure out the problem on my Taurus, thank you !!
Hey Eric,nice job! always waiting for your repair video!
Hey Eric, been following you since your early days, really missed ya when you went offline, but i understand!
Good to have you back, your videos are great and very therapeutic! You should come make a trip to NZ! Keep it up!
Great Fix . I didn’t know that switch was under there . Got my 2009 about 2 weeks ago . Love this channel !
Great video Eric. This one started out as a little puzzler. The chrome looks better, I think, it looks a lot more like the rest of the trim package.
Thanks for sharing and God bless
The takeaway from this video is that you didn't have to go to ANY expensive diagnostic equipment, just patience and common sense.
Astral Auto Repairs exactly
Not forgetting the classic - I repaired it somehow?
It would be nice if astral didn't just ban anyone who does not agree with him 100%...... Constructive criticism is good! That is how we all get better.
jake, we just BAN trolls, and when a troll apologizes for disrupting our channel, we unBAN them. That's fair, right? You heard that old saying, "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all".
in my opinion trolls should be banned, however, I am still awaiting a reply on why I have been banned from AAR since my channel and comments do not contain any troll material
Great video Eric, as always.
Looking forward to your next video.
Great job, Eric. I like how you troubleshoot it. I'm guilty of just throwing parts at a problem and this inspires me to stop doing that. haha
The chrome looks good. Thanks for the repair tips!
Just happened to me, tried the screwdriver trick and worked like a charm!
❤️❤️❤️❤️
I enjoyed the troubleshooting with the power probe and the work around.
Well done Eric, thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Been fighting the same issue in my Fiat 500 where I originally suspected the actuator which was incorrect. I assumed it was the switch which is almost identical. On to test and hopefully repair. Thanks again!!
Great video Eric!
You missed your calling Eric, you should have been a poet. 😊 Good Video, my Opel insignia constantly does this.
The chrome looks much nicer! I wonder if you lubricated that latch assembly with some lithium grease,if it would have made it work better...
Eric you make it look easy. Nice job!
Great info sir,I also am getting ready to work on the same problem on my 07 S.Thanks
Good to see use of a power probe. Thanks!
Good Job Eric!
I enjoyed this video! Just like old eric videos!
Nice diagnostic video. Enjoyed
I don't have mini however i really enjoyed the video.. thanks
The title has some trigger for dyslexia in there. It took about 3 sips of coffee this morning for me to be able to read it and 5 to understand it. Awesome job fixing the rear hatch that won't latch. How many hatches could you latch if your hatch could latch?
Well done Eric!
Nice troubleshooting! Had a similar problem on an 09 VW Golf (or Rabbit). The root cause was a distended spring inside the latch assembly that was preventing the mechanism from working properly. Couldn't replace the spring, had to buy a new assembly.
I found this video very helpful !
looks better with the chrome.
edit: SHINY AND CHROME!
Justin Clonts it will ride eternal
Great video Eric, you're a whizzzz....! The Man! Have a great weekend!
Great video I’m having the same problem with my trunk now I can approach it like a pro thanks
I have the same problem - but found this link when someone simply removes and cleans the microswitch rather than replace the whole unit. www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178411-hatch-release-button-fix.html
Thanks mate, got exact same problem! 👍👍👍
I like the use of less handheld camera in this video.
The Mini Pooper lives to die another day. Great Video! Thanks for sharing.
Hi Eric, well done! I love the sleeper Ford Fairmont looks very fun! Would you please recommend a good scanner for DIY'ers. Many thanks!
Super. Thanks Eric
Awesome video!
Thanks Eric!
Fantastic...good job !
Thanks Eric
Not a fan of chrome normally but it fits really well with the look of her rear end
Nice work
Good job
Shin Etsu grease might fix the latch issue. It did for my window motor and rear hatch latch on my RSX.
Great video
good video!
Hey can you do a video on 1234yf refrigerant? Have you run across it? Is it better or worse? Why are we making the switch?
Good job thanks
Freaking awesome video cheers
Hey eric i like your vids. I have a question i recently pulled a motor to a 93 ford ranger to swap freeze plugs had it on pulley hoist dropped it back in changed oil engine had lots of sludge now engine knocks can oil pump be clogged
Eric, when the latch stops latching.. try to push the trunk release button (when you get it fixed).. it should click back to normal position to hold close the hatch. I’ve seen this on BMW’s for years.. on my 328 I’ll go to shut the trunk.. it won’t latch sometimes so I have to press the release.. all good.
eric this mini cooper loves when you take it apart
That connector is a TE Micro Quadlock System (MQS), the locking mechanism is one small protrusion mating into an small hole, this does not provide much force and you can usually pull them apart with your hands.
If you do need to use a tool you can slip a small screwdriver between the male and female connectors on the side with the hole.
The chrome trim piece looks much better. One question, after all this work are you going to take on any more European repair projects?
These videos are making me even more set in my ways that the quality of the era of those two Acuras in the background, is pretty much the best ever in the history of vehicles. Not to mention they're fun as hell to drive.
HavokStrifeX Most modern cars are far better built than this mini
Time will tell. But I personally think that today's cars aren't going to be faring much better than this Mini in 11 years. They're plastic pieces of shit covered in assists and sensors because 99.9% of the population can't fucking drive. And all of these parts are going to wear out a lot faster and cost exponentially more to repair than the simple mechanical parts of 90's Hondas, and people are going to get rid of their cars they paid twice as much for twice as fast. Or, you know, not. We have to wait and see.
HavokStrifeX I don't think you're going to see modern Toyotas falling apart in ten years, sensors or not.
Yeah, their gas pedals will get stuck and kill people instead. They're made in America now, which is like American cars being made in China. You can't have the quality control you usually have when your shit is being made halfway across the world. Anything else?
HavokStrifeX Toyotas have been made in America since the 80s. Anything else?
Good to know
I have a 2010 mini Cooper clubman it has the milk truck doors in the back and it will not open with the key Farb or with the latch on the door it supposed to open right door first left or second and it was working fine and then one day just wouldn’t work at all I thought maybe there was a pull cord under the seat but there is not any info would be greatly appreciated
Ha Ha i had the same problem, its sorted now, do you know there is a cable release under the rear passenger seat for the hatch, pull the seat up and there it is....great videos....
Bravo! Bravo!
Nice one! Specialy as i was wrong!!!! Brown is allways ground(as ground is brown if you think it), that other end of 3-pin. connector is always power and middle is allways signal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So something has change here for normal german 3-pin. plugs...
omg. you are brilliant. you don't happen to live in northern california, do you?
It's a never ending story with some cars. I wonder why... Had a couple like that myself.
Hi is there a manual pulley to
Open the hatch from the inside and not using the keyfob ? I own a r56s 2010 no manual pulley inder back seat
Those first 3 little plastic pins you pried out, if you just push the center "button" inward, it will release the tension and you can just pull them out with your fingers. No pry tools needed! They work sort of like a drywall anchor, but in reverse.
How can the probe distinguish between a ground side and power side? Why did it not get a signal for the open light circuit? The switch circuits were open too how did it know one was ground and one was power when there is no current traveling on either side due to it being open since the switch wasn’t engaged??
Rear hatch weather cover (rubber piece covering the latch switch) becomes brittle and falls apart overtime. You can replace it by following how Eric replaced it in this video.
New part definitely looks better.
Just pulled my latch apart on my R53. The little plastic white part that cycles back and forth was jammed and would not latch closed. Seems like something inside broke and jammed the white plastic actuator. Freed it up and now it works every second time, as it still binds and gets stuck to the right of center. Mine was also missing the metal and actuates the microswitch on the motor assembly. Have a new actuator on the way. $60 off Amazon.
Do you get wind noise from the sunroof as well on this mini?
My mini is that color too.i live it
Could lubricating the latch help it quit messing up
Hey i got 04 mini and i have the same issue . i tried the electrical tester on the trunk button cable shown in the video. The tester beeps on both the ground and lights (middle connection) but when i apply negative to the positive it doesn’t do anything . What does that mean? and what should i do next ?
@ericthecarguy Eric! I'm gonna do an oil change on someone's 2008 Hyundai Tiburon with a little less than 90,000 miles. The engine seems healthy and has no leaks. The person has been using conventional for probably the majority of the car's life and they have kept up withoil changes.
In your opinion, with these conditions, would you say if it's a good idea to drain/ change the oil and replace it with Full Synthetic (probably Mobil1 ) ????? Let me know what you think! Thanks.
That finicky issue will go away if you replace the electronic latch. That’s what I had to do in the end with mine because eventually it stopped releasing even thou the buttons worked ok.
Also that cable is the emergency release, you’ll find the other end under the back seat.
I don't have one under the back the seats on my MCS 2008 its has baffled me
Mini Cooper S: The gift that keeps on giving. 😛
I miss this style where it's just you filming, feels like 1 on 1 time with the teacher again.
I'm surprised he didn't clean out the latch assembly with WD-40 or another solvent then re-grease it. Surely some of the randomness of the latch failure could be caused by dirt.
I would love to do that on mine I can't get the ticket open to work on my vehicle is there a manual is there a manual override for the for the rear lock open it
9:55 So what kind of witchcraft is this, Eric? Haha that was very interesting. (:
Great 😊
this is a "Money Pit" car but makes a great subject for repair videos as it will need lots of that. My guess is that replacement hatch switch was very expensive.
Does anyone know if the r56 has automatic rear lift gate capabilities ? Is there a sensor located under the rear bumper I’m not aware of ? Mine randomly pops open. It’s a 2013.
Hi Eric, i have r50 and r53. On my r50 when i turn on key my backlights (position and break lights) turn on and i cant lights turn off until key turn off...sensor on break is good...do you know where is problem?
I have owned two Mini Coopers. I like them but I would never say that they are good cars.
my rear hatch acts similar to this. If you lift up a little when you pop the hatch it will shut nicely. If you dont you have to depress the open button on the FOB then the rear hatch will shut properly. Not sure, but it looks like someone knocked my rear bumper...maybe its just misaligned now.
What sensors that the latch is open? My latch closes and everything but once I brake at stop light a sound comes on like "boonk" telling me the latch is open. It happens every time I brake and take off.
I had kind of the same problem with a vw derby. The trunk didn't latch. The reason: the locking part had a plastic cover from factory, once that plastic wears out it didn't latch because didnt push it all the way. The solution... I started putting tape on the metal thing that goes in the locking part. Until it got thick enough. The replace with a more permanent solution. Just keep the solution not metallic so it absorbs part of the hiting force when closing the trunk
Great work,well since you took the lock apart,you could of gave it a little bit of lubrication using grease or WD40
Thanks, 20 minute job and £300 saved on buying the part from eBay.
Good video but i think i would have simulated the door latch lock with the screwdriver first, and tested the button/fob operation before taking the lock apart.