I ran locked to lock shifts licking in first for years and the trans took it like a champ. The converters not so much. After going over 1300hp they got to be a real problem getting any life from them with high stall speeds and that big load coming on trying to lock and bring the motor down when it was on its way up. That was like 15 years ago though. I guess things are better now.
Ok I've spoke with you on the phone a couple times I do very heavy towing with my riggis there anyway to make the tc lockup in 1rst gear for long slow hill pulls or should I just do the Eaton air shift swap and have a Manuel trans.
Thinking about things u said. If I can apply a outside source of pressure to the trans for 1rst gear lockup that would make it harsher but. It would not be as hard on second gear band other than structure wise it would not slip under pressureim really thinking a Manuel swap id what I need for my truck the more I talk about it the more I'm lead to needing a Manuel over an auto for towing. I may call u again.
Zf8. Locks up in 1-8 gears. Also locks up quite quickly. The tcm seems to watch the slip rate of the converter to decide when to lock. It also goes into slip, unlock then down shifts then slip back to lock Would a better strategy be to go into unlock if only for a short while instead of actually triggering a downshift for those small short hills? Of course watching for any temp increase. Those seem to run pretty hot by design and downsbifting on every moderate hill doesnt seem to be effecting the temp what so ever Ill add its a half ton daily driver. Just making it more driveable. Disabled lockup in 1&2 and it realley helped the feel. Next is to change the schedule so it doesnt require 100% stop to go into first. Makes a even 0 mph rolling stop doggy when you least need it
And thank you so much because im like a sponge just trying to learn this whole diesel 1st gen stuff. I inherited my Fathers truck who served in military and their after as a Sherrif here in southern and nothern California. He kept this truck always garaged kept.... 1992 Dodge Ram D250 Cummins Turbo Diesel 5.9 Automatic ALL STOCK, 149,000 Original miles. I have always wondered about the OD button and when and when not to yse and i have never used it and because i still dont know, i wont but im trying to leaen more and more as much as i can because im not trying to ruin the transmission. Im a car and truck enthusiast have always owned classics car and trucks but this 1st Gen truck was a gift before my father past and he gave it to me because he knew his time. So he made it clear to take of it and make it better. I still have all paper work and window sticker from when he purchased it new.
Really cool story! Your 1st gen is a non lock up from the factory so you don’t have to worry about anything in this video. You can use overdrive any time you’d like! Maybe if you were pulling a step grade you’d want to keep it in 3rd but other than that definitely let it shift into OD
Ok awesome so just leave the OD button off is that correct? How about when I load up the camper over truck and I'm going up a mountain or traveling in high elevation when is best to use?
@@santanaman6783 with a first gen and what it sounds like you are doing with it, you can use the overdrive pretty much any time with out fear of hurting anything
@@Izzabumminz no concern at all. I’ve got customers that have been driving constant pressure VB for 5+ years now. Constant line pressure doesn’t take out a thrust bearing in the engine. Converter ballooning does
@@Izzabumminz watch my video on input shafts, I explain why I don’t do any builds with that shaft. You’ll have to keep your line pressure under 170psi to keep that set up from ballooning
I have a 95 dodge van 3500 with a 360 motor. The 46re was modified with 48re parts. I have two transmission coolers with fans. I pull a cargo trailer on long hills the transmission heat goes to 230 - 260. I am going to install a lock up switch for the long hills. Is there anything to do inturnily?
Wow that’s extremely hot!! I wouldn’t be surprised if you have damaged hard parts from that kind of temp. On a 46RE you’ll have to modify the VB to get it to lock up in 2nd or 3rd
I have a little over 50000 km on the build and still going strong. I am going to pull the pan and check it out for this season. It also has a billet torque converter. Not much of the of the transmission is a 46.
@@timesaver3 Remember that the Cummins trucks also run a heat exchanger in addition to the front air to oil cooler. So our trucks don't really get beyond 190-195 on a really hot day. I would be crapping myself seeing those temps lol, I start watching my gauges if I see more than 165.
My problem is I want to unlock converter till I get to 60mph mine locks up in 3rd and shifts to 4th locked and feels like gonna beak something in half. I just tow tractors. Stock truck with a jasper extra heavy duty with there triple disc converter. No one around here knows anything on these. What do you think. Thank ya sir
You are stuck with the factory shift/lock up strategy on a factory pcm/ecm truck. If you wire in a lock up switch you can lock and unlock whenever you choose (in 3rd & OD) but you’ll have to lock and unlock it every time yourself. Not the most enjoyable thing. I prefer locked 3-4 shifts when towing. Unlocking, shifting and relocking the converter is annoying. Some 3rd gen trucks do this no matter what. It’s programmed into the ecm I with no work around and most ppl complain about it.
To do a switch would you just cut the yellow with blue stripe and run the grounding switch with 33mh in line. It feels like you get hit by a semi when it shifts to 4th loaded. Unloaded you can’t tell. Thanks for your time
Hey i just finished installing a fmvb 48re, stall at 2400 . Havent installed od or lockup. Went for a drive around the block with 1,2,3 and it was just less powerful than before . Is it just the converter stall that does that
I’m not sure whose converter you have or what your exact set up is but if you had a stock stall converter before and now you’ve loosened it up a few hundred rpm, it’s going to require more rpm/throttle input to move the truck like the stock stall converter did before
Yep, I have a DPC triple 1900 stall in one of my trucks, and I have a DPC triple stock stall in my other. The stock stall is definitely more spongy feeling. Even having a 6.7 swap with big injectors vs 5.9l and smaller injectors the 5.9 truck gets up and goes much much easier. But once I hit 2400rpm with the 6.7 and stock stall, shit gets real. The lower stall I don't need to use lockup really, it moves the truck much more efficiently in fluid coupling.
whats the best way to check my stock converter while removed from trans i notice the stator free spins when i check it with needle nose pliers have had some weird issues pointing towards a converter issue but when i removed my trans to do some other work i checked the converter like people say but not sure if i am checking it right
Say im getting on the on ramp getting on highway and i happen to floor it as it goes into overdrive, is that had? It definitely feels bad but im not sure. Same thing for lockup, is that lugging the engine untill it gets around 1800rpm+?
Ok. Thanks for the reply. I've asked a bunch of people but keep getting different answers. I get a shake around 2300 rpm , regardless of what gear , only when my quad is on tune 5 and 6. Some have said it's the TC going, but it's a brand new DPC triple. Any thoughts?
@@Connor-gc3uz Check and make sure you have adequate pressure from the valve body. If you don't have enough pressure the converter will shutter, at least that is how it feels. I had that symptom before I built my trans. Depending on your turbo and fuel 2300 is right in the peak torque rpm. I doubt it's the actual converter, could also be clutch packs slipping.
In my opinion doing burn outs with out a purpose, such as heating up slicks or radials for racing, is just putting unnecessary wear on a transmission. I understand that lots of people like to do them and if you understand the possible consequences of big long Smokey burn outs then carry on! I would personally not lock the converter in a burn out and certainly never ever use overdrive in a burn out. Starting and doing the burn out isn’t as hard on everything as stopping the burn out is. The higher the wheel speed in the burn out is, the more the shock load is when it grabs when you lift off the throttle. Doing an overdrive burn out is not only hard on the overdrive clutch pack but always hard on everything in the driveline when 150mph of wheel speed goes to 0 instantly. I’ve seen lots of excessive burn outs tear up good parts for no good reason other than the sake of doing a burn out. Therefore I always tell people to proceed with caution and be aware of the consequences if burn outs are your thing.
I should have watched this video sooner.. I have a FMVB 47re gorend internals they said ,billet shafts etc. Today I did my 1st 4x4 boost launch I think I locked the converter to early after I shifted to 2nd gear. Something snapped. I don’t have any foward gears but i do have reverse. What do you think snapped ?
That sounds like intermediate shaft. Often times the way the stock intermediate shaft breaks it still keeps the rear planets splined so you can still have reverse.
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop i bought this truck from a guy who had it in his 07 he raced with it he said it was built for 1000 plus hp. It has gorend internal billet input and output shafts. The thing is my truck weights 8000 pounds it had lasted like 4 yrs without breaking till something gave out today. I’m pushing 800 hp or more
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop 10 4. appreciate you replying man. do you sell a billet intermediate shaft in your website. Some guy told me it could also be the planetary gear ? Is there a chance that could have broken too ?
@@jesusduran3050 It could be a planet failure but pretty unlikely. I’ve seen very few of those fail. I do sell individual parts like that. They just aren’t on the site. Shoot me an email to info@getloganbuilt.com and I’ll get you what you need!
Dude you’re the best. You’ve helped me grow to understand automatics so much more than I ever thought. Really appreciate all your work brother!
Thank you very much! Glad you’re finding these videos helpful!
I have a 2004.5 48re. I believe it locks the converter at 40mph in 3rd and OD hits at 50. In tow haul it locks the converter in 3rd around 48mph.
I ran locked to lock shifts licking in first for years and the trans took it like a champ. The converters not so much. After going over 1300hp they got to be a real problem getting any life from them with high stall speeds and that big load coming on trying to lock and bring the motor down when it was on its way up. That was like 15 years ago though. I guess things are better now.
Ok I've spoke with you on the phone a couple times I do very heavy towing with my riggis there anyway to make the tc lockup in 1rst gear for long slow hill pulls or should I just do the Eaton air shift swap and have a Manuel trans.
Thinking about things u said. If I can apply a outside source of pressure to the trans for 1rst gear lockup that would make it harsher but. It would not be as hard on second gear band other than structure wise it would not slip under pressureim really thinking a Manuel swap id what I need for my truck the more I talk about it the more I'm lead to needing a Manuel over an auto for towing. I may call u again.
Zf8. Locks up in 1-8 gears. Also locks up quite quickly. The tcm seems to watch the slip rate of the converter to decide when to lock.
It also goes into slip, unlock then down shifts then slip back to lock
Would a better strategy be to go into unlock if only for a short while instead of actually triggering a downshift for those small short hills? Of course watching for any temp increase. Those seem to run pretty hot by design and downsbifting on every moderate hill doesnt seem to be effecting the temp what so ever
Ill add its a half ton daily driver. Just making it more driveable. Disabled lockup in 1&2 and it realley helped the feel. Next is to change the schedule so it doesnt require 100% stop to go into first. Makes a even 0 mph rolling stop doggy when you least need it
And thank you so much because im like a sponge just trying to learn this whole diesel 1st gen stuff. I inherited my Fathers truck who served in military and their after as a Sherrif here in southern and nothern California. He kept this truck always garaged kept....
1992 Dodge Ram D250 Cummins Turbo Diesel 5.9 Automatic ALL STOCK, 149,000 Original miles.
I have always wondered about the OD button and when and when not to yse and i have never used it and because i still dont know, i wont but im trying to leaen more and more as much as i can because im not trying to ruin the transmission.
Im a car and truck enthusiast have always owned classics car and trucks but this 1st Gen truck was a gift before my father past and he gave it to me because he knew his time. So he made it clear to take of it and make it better. I still have all paper work and window sticker from when he purchased it new.
Really cool story! Your 1st gen is a non lock up from the factory so you don’t have to worry about anything in this video. You can use overdrive any time you’d like! Maybe if you were pulling a step grade you’d want to keep it in 3rd but other than that definitely let it shift into OD
Ok awesome so just leave the OD button off is that correct?
How about when I load up the camper over truck and I'm going up a mountain or traveling in high elevation when is best to use?
Again Brother THANK YOU A MIL FOR ALL THIS INFO AND YOUR TIME and I'm definitely checking out your products.
@@santanaman6783 with a first gen and what it sounds like you are doing with it, you can use the overdrive pretty much any time with out fear of hurting anything
great video! Question; what about heavy pushing of snow (10 to 20 mph)? could I lock 2d gear to reduce heat?
That’s a great question! You could if you needed to but at the low of mph I would expect it to drag the rpm down too low
thanks for the video
What do you think about daily driving constant pressures and the thrust bearing in engine?? I wiped mine in 15k miles at 800hp
@@Izzabumminz no concern at all. I’ve got customers that have been driving constant pressure VB for 5+ years now. Constant line pressure doesn’t take out a thrust bearing in the engine. Converter ballooning does
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop I have a santjer shaft with DPC converter its barely got 5k miles, Im running a muldoons fmvb. what temp/rpm do they balloon?
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop but how many miles at what pressures? Hp?
@@Izzabumminz over 100k miles at 180ish psi
@@Izzabumminz watch my video on input shafts, I explain why I don’t do any builds with that shaft. You’ll have to keep your line pressure under 170psi to keep that set up from ballooning
Thank u brother.
1st gear lockup is great for engine braking
I have a 95 dodge van 3500 with a 360 motor. The 46re was modified with 48re parts. I have two transmission coolers with fans. I pull a cargo trailer on long hills the transmission heat goes to 230 - 260. I am going to install a lock up switch for the long hills. Is there anything to do inturnily?
Wow that’s extremely hot!! I wouldn’t be surprised if you have damaged hard parts from that kind of temp. On a 46RE you’ll have to modify the VB to get it to lock up in 2nd or 3rd
I have a little over 50000 km on the build and still going strong. I am going to pull the pan and check it out for this season. It also has a billet torque converter. Not much of the of the transmission is a 46.
@@timesaver3 Remember that the Cummins trucks also run a heat exchanger in addition to the front air to oil cooler. So our trucks don't really get beyond 190-195 on a really hot day. I would be crapping myself seeing those temps lol, I start watching my gauges if I see more than 165.
I did install the lock up switch. So I did get a handle on the transmission heat when it is in second gear. The motor does get up to 190.
Can you lock unlock shift and then lock again on repeat through the gears or is that more wear on the converter
You can but I think you’d get tired of doing that pretty quickly
What if i never use lock up on my stock 92 d250 cummins turbo diesel automatic because i new with diesel.
Our first generation trucks from factory will not have lock up.
My problem is I want to unlock converter till I get to 60mph mine locks up in 3rd and shifts to 4th locked and feels like gonna beak something in half. I just tow tractors. Stock truck with a jasper extra heavy duty with there triple disc converter. No one around here knows anything on these. What do you think. Thank ya sir
You are stuck with the factory shift/lock up strategy on a factory pcm/ecm truck. If you wire in a lock up switch you can lock and unlock whenever you choose (in 3rd & OD) but you’ll have to lock and unlock it every time yourself. Not the most enjoyable thing. I prefer locked 3-4 shifts when towing. Unlocking, shifting and relocking the converter is annoying. Some 3rd gen trucks do this no matter what. It’s programmed into the ecm I with no work around and most ppl complain about it.
To do a switch would you just cut the yellow with blue stripe and run the grounding switch with 33mh in line. It feels like you get hit by a semi when it shifts to 4th loaded. Unloaded you can’t tell.
Thanks for your time
@@Jamesws245 pin 7 on the trans harness, look close at the plug and you will see the numbers. Looking at the plug 7 is top left side.
Hey i just finished installing a fmvb 48re, stall at 2400 . Havent installed od or lockup. Went for a drive around the block with 1,2,3 and it was just less powerful than before . Is it just the converter stall that does that
I’m not sure whose converter you have or what your exact set up is but if you had a stock stall converter before and now you’ve loosened it up a few hundred rpm, it’s going to require more rpm/throttle input to move the truck like the stock stall converter did before
Yep, I have a DPC triple 1900 stall in one of my trucks, and I have a DPC triple stock stall in my other. The stock stall is definitely more spongy feeling. Even having a 6.7 swap with big injectors vs 5.9l and smaller injectors the 5.9 truck gets up and goes much much easier. But once I hit 2400rpm with the 6.7 and stock stall, shit gets real. The lower stall I don't need to use lockup really, it moves the truck much more efficiently in fluid coupling.
whats the best way to check my stock converter while removed from trans i notice the stator free spins when i check it with needle nose pliers have had some weird issues pointing towards a converter issue but when i removed my trans to do some other work i checked the converter like people say but not sure if i am checking it right
1997 12v 47re
There’s no way to properly check the converter with out it being sent to a shop capable of cutting it open to see.
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop Yeahh i was feeling that was gonna be the answer lol. Thanks man i appreciate the response.
@@Precisionmobile no problem!
Say im getting on the on ramp getting on highway and i happen to floor it as it goes into overdrive, is that had? It definitely feels bad but im not sure. Same thing for lockup, is that lugging the engine untill it gets around 1800rpm+?
It’s going to depend on a lot of factors but I don’t like lock up being on bellow 1500rpms in most situations
Ok. Thanks for the reply. I've asked a bunch of people but keep getting different answers. I get a shake around 2300 rpm , regardless of what gear , only when my quad is on tune 5 and 6. Some have said it's the TC going, but it's a brand new DPC triple. Any thoughts?
@@Connor-gc3uz Check and make sure you have adequate pressure from the valve body. If you don't have enough pressure the converter will shutter, at least that is how it feels. I had that symptom before I built my trans. Depending on your turbo and fuel 2300 is right in the peak torque rpm. I doubt it's the actual converter, could also be clutch packs slipping.
I have your pro series in my megacab, what about burnouts? 1st into 2nd and lockup or am I going into 3rd?
In my opinion doing burn outs with out a purpose, such as heating up slicks or radials for racing, is just putting unnecessary wear on a transmission. I understand that lots of people like to do them and if you understand the possible consequences of big long Smokey burn outs then carry on! I would personally not lock the converter in a burn out and certainly never ever use overdrive in a burn out. Starting and doing the burn out isn’t as hard on everything as stopping the burn out is. The higher the wheel speed in the burn out is, the more the shock load is when it grabs when you lift off the throttle. Doing an overdrive burn out is not only hard on the overdrive clutch pack but always hard on everything in the driveline when 150mph of wheel speed goes to 0 instantly. I’ve seen lots of excessive burn outs tear up good parts for no good reason other than the sake of doing a burn out. Therefore I always tell people to proceed with caution and be aware of the consequences if burn outs are your thing.
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop thank you for the info. I am getting a wheel and tire setup for the truck and track finally so knowing that helps thank you!
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop if I was at the track what would be the steps to the burnout that would do the least amount of damage?
@@zakruiz8421 honestly you don’t need to do a burn out with your particular set up and weight. Keep the tires dry and it’ll hook!
I should have watched this video sooner.. I have a FMVB 47re gorend internals they said ,billet shafts etc. Today I did my 1st 4x4 boost launch I think I locked the converter to early after I shifted to 2nd gear. Something snapped. I don’t have any foward gears but i do have reverse. What do you think snapped ?
That sounds like intermediate shaft. Often times the way the stock intermediate shaft breaks it still keeps the rear planets splined so you can still have reverse.
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop i bought this truck from a guy who had it in his 07 he raced with it he said it was built for 1000 plus hp. It has gorend internal billet input and output shafts. The thing is my truck weights 8000 pounds it had lasted like 4 yrs without breaking till something gave out today. I’m pushing 800 hp or more
@@jesusduran3050 at 800-1000hp range all it takes is the right shock load to break a stock intermediate shaft.
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop 10 4. appreciate you replying man. do you sell a billet intermediate shaft in your website. Some guy told me it could also be the planetary gear ? Is there a chance that could have broken too ?
@@jesusduran3050 It could be a planet failure but pretty unlikely. I’ve seen very few of those fail. I do sell individual parts like that. They just aren’t on the site. Shoot me an email to info@getloganbuilt.com and I’ll get you what you need!