I put this on a new home 3 years ago, and mitered the outside corners…. Absolutely looks amazing! The home is a real show piece….. Not many crews will take the time to miter corners.
One of my biggest issue with Boral or Polyash products are that they are hard but brittle, and while I love it's crisp and sharp corners, they do chip easily. It's a decent options especially to match historical looks, but I does have a bit of downside. They go through saw blades because it's like cutting an abrasive, the dust is a fine powder so you want to wear a mask (it taste like calcium powder, super bitter if you walk into a mist of dust on accident), and it does clog up dust collection if you use it. We have a lot of Victorian homes here, and we used Boral products a lot, and it's nice but it doesn't wear well because of the chipping and you can grind into it with your nails. I personally don't mind the cladding, I typically avoid using it for my outside corners. If you do, you have to condition your clients that it will not age well if you have a lot of foot traffic in the area. You have flaws with cedar and redwood too, they're soft and no matter how you prime it you run the risk of tannin staining painted work. Pre-primed pine is just a cheap product that works and doesn't work. If you get hit with a lot of wind driven rain, pre-prime pine is just not a very weather resistive product regardless of priming. Hardie is a bit more economical for lapped siding. Polyash is much nicer when it comes to squared channel, shiplap, v-groove, etc, there's just more options available for that kind of traditional look. Since our projects are painted, we typically use Hardie Trimboards for corners and trim and Polyash/Boral for the face. The Hardie tirmboards are are far more durable.
Cool stuff, but their beveled lap siding boards are quite literally 10x the price of hardie. Love the truExterior trim but the siding price is just insanity. 83 dollars a board was the quote I got in south louisiana for the beveled vs 8 for hardie in the exact same size. I can't quite justify spending 40k in materials when i could spend 3800 on hardie fiber cement.
yeah as an intaller this boral stuff is easy to chip and dent with bumps, much moreso than james hardie. the nailing schedule on this boral for nickle gap siding is silly as well. if you want plastic on your house just go with vinyl alot of the newer stuff looks as good as hardie
Boral use to make make these clapboards, they were great and very cheap at about 1.00lf. I believe duration is milling these clapboards out of Boral trim boards. I ended up milling my own. Saved about 10,000 siding my house. took less than a day with a jig on the band saw and a power feed.
Herezz the thang!! In a wildfire prone area, like NW Montana, whatz needed is lotz of fireproofing. Siding included. What do you recommend to keep burning embers from burning a home down - especially over ICF? Cement board? By whom? Come on, give us some juice!! The climate is only going to get hotter, drier, and fires bigger!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
For me, the ideas in ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
i’ve used boral a lot. it has its benefits but some things to keep in mind. Keep it away from high traffic areas. it’s brittle and rubs scrapes moving items and scuffs digg into the material. I suggest not to use it on garage door trim , front door door trims and other areas similar. I found Azek or similar holds better in these areas and paints very well. Also keep in mind painters charge more to paint it. It absorbs quite a bit and could require an additional coat.
What are the drawbacks? No engineering discussion can be complete without an exhaustive list of drawbacks, so that the user can weigh their tradeoffs. E.g.: - Cost? - Fragility/brittleness? - 2nd/3rd-source availability? - What is the "Poly" in poly-ash? Does it affect --> - Fire-resistance? - Outgassing/ plasticizers? - Recyclability? - ease of repair? - Breathability? - What is the "Ash" in poly-ash? Does it affect --> - Health hazards during construction? - Staining? (resistance to-) - Hazards during demolition? - Hazards in event of fire? - Mass & weight of the cladding? I am wary of any exposition where only the positives are touted.
@@billthepainter5106 I would be more likely to purchase if the cons too were laid out in a transparent manner. As of now, I have no idea what 'gotcha!s' await...
The boards are super flimsy…more than hardie because they are 16 ft. They also have a tendancy to chip or crack if not handled carefully. However, they are beautiful when milled and paint will last a long time because it doesn’t water cycle. Even though they’re super expensive, you should see the savings over wood after paying for the first paint job. You’ll painting wood at least twice before you have to repaint this for the first time. The beveled boards I used were around $80 per. Cedar was around $70.
There’s pros and cons of every product, I’ve heard some people cursing the boral siding. Personally I kinda like real cedar. Slate is a great cladding material. And can never go wrong with brick houses.
I did part of my house with Boral…almost impossible for one man to handle a 16’ board without breaking it. Then, Boral disappeared and I did the next section in real cedar. It was an absolute breeze! Lightweight & you could spin it like a propeller without breaking it. There are houses in my town with cedar claps well over 100 years old. God made trees & I think he knew what he was doing. 🤔🍷🎩🎩🎩
I’ve used both Boral & cedar on my house. When Boral disappeared I switched to Cedar. It’s lighter, it doesn’t snap in half when one man carries it, you can therefore work faster, and it will last 100 years plus if maintained. Way less money!!! However, the Boral is FIREPROOF, which may be important for some people. ✌️🍷🎩🎩🎩
Are you the same gentleman who told us “we sided the back side of our house with Boral beveled siding and absolutely love the product and the look. It holds up so well. We are so happy to know you took over and continued the poly-ash product,”?
the spruce cladder we use here, easily lasts 80years when done correct, and the right maintenance, we have pretty high quality standars on wood materials in my country
Matt. As always great info in the latest and greatest in our industry!. As you could imagine we listen to the build show driving between jobs. Suggestion. Please include price comparables. Why? It takes a lot of precious time to compare and contrast pricing. If you have the contractor right in front of you just ask him. I'm sure he has run the numbers. Thanks again. Happy Easter! Respectfully, Ken
it's a tough call, but it could be considered eco-friendly as this product will outlast nearly all other claddings by x3 x4 possibly more. the savings in the labor of residing. reduced landfill from replacement, it will hold paint x2 due to lack of movement so less painting is required over the years, No bug damage. so yes i agree the material is not ECO but it will show savings over the next 100 years which is a saving to the environment. I like to think of this material as the new asbestos...It will last forever
@@johnbergstrom2931 That's right. Don't eat it and you'll be fine. Almost everything is poisonous in large amounts, and you can't hide from everything. (though some people wear a mask alone in their car)
@@Bob_Adkins incorrect. The chemicals used in their manufacture and byproducts are famously toxic. Disposal is a problem. Cutting this material creates microparticle dust that gets into your lungs potentially, and into the environment certainly. Saying it does no harm is woefully naive, or recklessly misleading.
I'm a big fan of Boral - it works great to match the look of wood without movement of PVC and it take paint great! What are you using for soffit vent with Boral? I'm trying to find a better product than the standard/chintzy aluminum strip venting.
A bit flimsier than Hardie, made worse because of the 16 ft. lengths…but that also means you’ll have fewer cuts. It’s great because you don’t have to edge prime and can face or blind nail, where Hardie recommends only blind nailing. It doesn’t come pre-painted, but I found it easier to install than Hardie. Hardie is heavier. Boral is easier to nail through. With Hardie, I always worry about blowout unless I pre-drill/hand nail.
Both accurate comments. 30% fewer butt joints, no clearance restrictions, no edge/cut sealing. (HUGE time savings), easy to patch and fill if damaged, no special safety precautions.
I had boral sitting in bucket of water for months and through winter months and some still sitting outside for uears unpainted. No swelling. I wonder if itcwas coated with something like smartside uses on their osb siding how awesome it would be.
Unlike prefinished products (which almost exclusively receive a spray finish) field finished poly-ash products allow for easier handling during installation, concealment of any and all face fasteners, the ability to get exactly the right color and sheen and, most importantly, the ability to EASILY repair any type of damage well into the future and conceal the patch - prefinished sidings just can’t pull that off.
How does this product hold up to a gas grill next to a wall on a back deck? The "poly" part of the name seems to indicate some plastic content....Is it fire resistant like Hardie siding?
@@creechmeister I'm usually just installing stuff. So I didn't want undercut the lower end stuff. 😂 Bora n Aztec trim is normally for me. Math at $83 ea 16' x 6" reveal is $10ish SQ ft Nice stuff for sure
Untrue. But while we’re at it, let’s look at fiber cement, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), vinyl, treated lumber. Not sure why the material would be left behind on someone’s property.
@@durationmouldingmillwork9450 Not sure how you can say untrue? In the past 25 years, not once have I ever seen a contractor installing siding on a house bring a dust collection system to the job site. And I agree with you that they leave behind PVC cuttings, treated lumber sawdust, etc. What is the source of the ash used in your product? If it is fly ash from power plants then it contains heavy metals and other contaminants.
Another benefit is that since they are standard historical profiles, you can replace pieces in the future with cedar if the boral ever gets discontinued. The profiles match exactly to stock wood profiles. People who currently have beaded hardie, for example, are screwed if they don’t have extra on hand. Same with LP and regular hardie.
Hey Matt do you have videos on or is it even to possible to make homes that would resist flooding? Just an interest thought theory to a wheelchair bound man. I know you are big on make homes air tight, but is it possible to make them water tight?
There’s a whole listing on our website. Unlike fiber cement: better texture, will not absorb moisture, no edge sealing, no clearance restrictions, sandable, easily patched , filled, and sanded, can be installed in any temperature, no special safety precautions for cutting, can be milled, has complimentary mouldings… and a whole lot more… especially a very handsome shadow line.
Clarification - TruEx was developed by Boral and Westlake purchases Boral. The “Boral” name is going away in light building materials. DURATION fabricates all products from Westlake TruExterior poly-ash.
Would the Poly-Ash nickel gap product be suitable to use indoors as an interior finish in a basement/garage walls (mold resistance)? Do the Duration Poly-Ash products have any fire resistance/rating? Forget this question: Found the information: (Smoke Developed: Class A (< 450 ) - Flame Spread: Class B (< 35 )
Yep. Often sold for flood-prone areas so that it can simply be cleaned when the water recedes. No moisture, no food source, no mold - you need both (along with temperature) to have mold growth.
From what I gather from below and the general internet, this is very pricy. The purists want cedar but sometimes ( or more?) other woods were used initially as siding and shingles- depends on the local historic people who are all over the map on what constitutes an "acceptable" reconstruction. I always say: are our best ideas behind us and who will really maintain the rehab for the LONG term if it is vulnerable to decay? If this is a 50 plus year product, that would help reduce the landfill pileup from demos.
Definitely a 100+ year product in our opinion. Only composite that routinely is accepted in historically sensitive areas e.g. the Old South Church in Boston. About the same price as cedar but 4-6 faster times install and incomparable performance… without losing the aesthetics
I really trust Matt's recommendations, but remember this is a sponsored video not necessarily something he personally thinks is best. Also its a sponsored video that doesn't talk about costs.
Almost every product I've ever seen showcased on this channel doesn't exist in my state. Apparently, it's all only available directly from the manufacturer
what do you mean by 'exist'? on physical shelves collecting dust? probably not. but there is the internet which means you can quite literally buy anything you are willing to sign the check for,
Cool but is it impervious to woodpeckers though? Cause I've got this one bird that is single handedly destroying my house and theres literally nothing anybody can do about it cause he federally protected.
Are there any innovative brick materials? Instead of having wrap, siding, wood, insulation, drywall etc. Would be so nice to just stack bricks and have a house as people have done since ancient Egypt. Would be much more protective against fire, flooding, falling trees as well
That’s true, but Duration is very helpful in finding a distributor near you. They sell through Westlake Royal, so you likely have a distributor pretty close to you that can order most profiles within a week or two. The Duration siding I used on my house arrived in less than two weeks.
Do woodpeckers and squirrels ever go at this stuff? We cut back the trees enough that the squirrels shouldn't be a problem, but no way to keep the woodpeckers off the house.
...ash in general contains trace levels of trace elements (such as arsenic, barium, beryllium, boron, cadmium, chromium, thallium, selenium, molybdenum and mercury), many of which are highly toxic to humans and other life... Well, I skip this awesome BS, thanks
It seems crazy that roofs and siding are still made from materials that need to be replaced every 20 - 30 years. Roofs and siding needs to be made to last the life of the home. Why pay to get your roof or siding replaced in 20 years when you can buy a product that can last forever.
We believe this is a 100 year + product. Can we prove that - no. The law makes you state a timeframe. We have thousands of real world conditions with no product failure in 12+ years. We have thousands of images of other failed products in far fewer years. We’ve been in building materials for four decades - nothing comes close to poly-ash.
@@buildshow, could you please elaborate on your comment about Everlast siding? I'm currently researching siding for our project and was considering Everlast or Celect PVC siding. Is there a reason you don't like it?
@@buildshow please, elaborate. I love your channel, but realize it's about sponsors and big $$$ to an extent. I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering what y'all have against a product that can handle a baseball bat, is as easy to install as vinyl, and NEVER needs maintenance (aside from the occasional hose down.
dust from this stuff is terrible, the company is all vague about its safety rating but its basically fiber cement. it ruins blades and that dust burns out your saws faster. probably use dust extraction. it is much better than james hardie though.
Nothing like fiber cement. You take take an old carbide blade used on wood and use it on poly-ash. It will cut beautifully for a very long time. Use it solely on poly-ash from that point on. We call this dedicating the blade. If you cut one piece of wood with it, throw the blade away. We cut, rip, and mill poly-ash all day long with the same machinery we’ve had for over a decade. It requires good dust extraction. Let us mill and rip - you just cross cut. 😊
I can’t fault you. I like Hardie too. Used it on my house. That being said the true bevel on this is pretty nice. Definitely nicer up close than a standard cement board.
@@durationmouldingmillwork9450 Did they ever fix the structural weakness issues with it? I recall a few years ago a review where it snaps easily compared to wood and doesn't have the same structural strength...did they improve that yet?
I priced out the price on this siding. It was $292.00 APIECE!!!! That would way over $35,000 just for materials for my little house. This channel is for rich, wealthy people. Not me.
The bevel siding SUCKS we did a whole house and had nothing but problems, the trim is nice for windows and corners, but soffit with long runs it seems to move seen it on 2 jobs. The dust is TERRIBLE for you, need to wear a mask and dust collection is nice, I've been told the dust can contaminate ground water with time
yeah this dust is terrible, they have all this BS paperwork saying just do it outside and that it can cause respiratory distress esp in asthmatics. we just did a house in this stuff and I took all my saws apart and used compressed air to clean the bearings. the dust doesn't linger in the air like fiber cement but when you do rip cuts with it I would use dust extraction. probably best to wear a mask with this crap even if the company really doesn't specify. james hardie as a company seems to have a lot more respect for the installers than many other corporations. I would bet a fortune that this garbage is gonna give me kidney damage and some kind of cancer down the road.
Why is tiktok bad because it's CCP while we have our own government controlled FB (Twitter before Musk now controls it), UA-cam and Google that control our news and information far more than anything tiktok could possibly do? In fact, you can find nothing but the most fire conspiracy theories on tiktok including the moon landings, deep state, skull and bones, bush family stuff, Clinton's and epstien Island content. Try doing any of that with UA-cam.
Steve is right, but there’s over a 100 year supply of fly ash if coal production stopped today. Third largest waste byproduct by volume in the world we’re told. TruEx takes a waste product and produces siding and trim that we believe will outlast us all.
I put this on a new home 3 years ago, and mitered the outside corners….
Absolutely looks amazing!
The home is a real show piece…..
Not many crews will take the time to miter corners.
Very cool. Thanks for commenting John
Thank you.
One of my biggest issue with Boral or Polyash products are that they are hard but brittle, and while I love it's crisp and sharp corners, they do chip easily. It's a decent options especially to match historical looks, but I does have a bit of downside.
They go through saw blades because it's like cutting an abrasive, the dust is a fine powder so you want to wear a mask (it taste like calcium powder, super bitter if you walk into a mist of dust on accident), and it does clog up dust collection if you use it. We have a lot of Victorian homes here, and we used Boral products a lot, and it's nice but it doesn't wear well because of the chipping and you can grind into it with your nails. I personally don't mind the cladding, I typically avoid using it for my outside corners. If you do, you have to condition your clients that it will not age well if you have a lot of foot traffic in the area.
You have flaws with cedar and redwood too, they're soft and no matter how you prime it you run the risk of tannin staining painted work. Pre-primed pine is just a cheap product that works and doesn't work. If you get hit with a lot of wind driven rain, pre-prime pine is just not a very weather resistive product regardless of priming.
Hardie is a bit more economical for lapped siding. Polyash is much nicer when it comes to squared channel, shiplap, v-groove, etc, there's just more options available for that kind of traditional look. Since our projects are painted, we typically use Hardie Trimboards for corners and trim and Polyash/Boral for the face. The Hardie tirmboards are are far more durable.
is it similar to one of those clapboard used at the Carlisle Project and Billerica from This Old House some years ago?
What do you think of lp smart side
@@DAMMDAUGHTERSgreat for dry areas. OSB doesn't like water.
Very helpful comment!
This is a great comment. Thank you.
Cool stuff, but their beveled lap siding boards are quite literally 10x the price of hardie. Love the truExterior trim but the siding price is just insanity. 83 dollars a board was the quote I got in south louisiana for the beveled vs 8 for hardie in the exact same size. I can't quite justify spending 40k in materials when i could spend 3800 on hardie fiber cement.
OMG!!! Oh there’s no way I’d pass up Hardie but ESPECIALLY if that’s the price difference
Mm good catch. I got my hopes up 😢
yeah as an intaller this boral stuff is easy to chip and dent with bumps, much moreso than james hardie. the nailing schedule on this boral for nickle gap siding is silly as well. if you want plastic on your house just go with vinyl alot of the newer stuff looks as good as hardie
That's how they could afford to sponsor this video
If Matt likes it. Then it 10x more than the next option. Lol
Boral use to make make these clapboards, they were great and very cheap at about 1.00lf. I believe duration is milling these clapboards out of Boral trim boards. I ended up milling my own. Saved about 10,000 siding my house. took less than a day with a jig on the band saw and a power feed.
Herezz the thang!! In a wildfire prone area, like NW Montana, whatz needed is lotz of fireproofing. Siding included. What do you recommend to keep burning embers from burning a home down - especially over ICF? Cement board? By whom? Come on, give us some juice!! The climate is only going to get hotter, drier, and fires bigger!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
This material carries California’s WUI (Wildland Urban Interface) listing/certification.
Cool. Perfect timing as we consider siding the house.
Look at Everlast. NEVER needs paint! I’m putting on my house next month.
For me, the ideas in ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
i’ve used boral a lot. it has its benefits but some things to keep in mind. Keep it away from high traffic areas. it’s brittle and rubs scrapes moving items and scuffs digg into the material. I suggest not to use it on garage door trim , front door door trims and other areas similar. I found Azek or similar holds better in these areas and paints very well.
Also keep in mind painters charge more to paint it. It absorbs quite a bit and could require an additional coat.
Does not absorb at all. If a painter is charging you more, seek another sub.
What are the drawbacks? No engineering discussion can be complete without an exhaustive list of drawbacks, so that the user can weigh their tradeoffs. E.g.:
- Cost?
- Fragility/brittleness?
- 2nd/3rd-source availability?
- What is the "Poly" in poly-ash? Does it affect -->
- Fire-resistance?
- Outgassing/ plasticizers?
- Recyclability?
- ease of repair?
- Breathability?
- What is the "Ash" in poly-ash? Does it affect -->
- Health hazards during construction?
- Staining? (resistance to-)
- Hazards during demolition?
- Hazards in event of fire?
- Mass & weight of the cladding?
I am wary of any exposition where only the positives are touted.
Well it IS a sponsored video.
@@billthepainter5106 I would be more likely to purchase if the cons too were laid out in a transparent manner. As of now, I have no idea what 'gotcha!s' await...
The boards are super flimsy…more than hardie because they are 16 ft. They also have a tendancy to chip or crack if not handled carefully. However, they are beautiful when milled and paint will last a long time because it doesn’t water cycle. Even though they’re super expensive, you should see the savings over wood after paying for the first paint job. You’ll painting wood at least twice before you have to repaint this for the first time. The beveled boards I used were around $80 per. Cedar was around $70.
Give us a call - we’ll set up a virtual call and go through any and all concerns.
There’s pros and cons of every product, I’ve heard some people cursing the boral siding. Personally I kinda like real cedar. Slate is a great cladding material. And can never go wrong with brick houses.
I did part of my house with Boral…almost impossible for one man to handle a 16’ board without breaking it. Then, Boral disappeared and I did the next section in real cedar. It was an absolute breeze! Lightweight & you could spin it like a propeller without breaking it. There are houses in my town with cedar claps well over 100 years old. God made trees & I think he knew what he was doing. 🤔🍷🎩🎩🎩
I'm thinking of halfway brick and thinking cedar for the upper part . Any suggestions ?
I’ve used both Boral & cedar on my house. When Boral disappeared I switched to Cedar. It’s lighter, it doesn’t snap in half when one man carries it, you can therefore work faster, and it will last 100 years plus if maintained. Way less money!!! However, the Boral is FIREPROOF, which may be important for some people. ✌️🍷🎩🎩🎩
Are you the same gentleman who told us “we sided the back side of our house with Boral beveled siding and absolutely love the product and the look. It holds up so well. We are so happy to know you took over and continued the poly-ash product,”?
the spruce cladder we use here, easily lasts 80years when done correct, and the right maintenance, we have pretty high quality standars on wood materials in my country
Great attention to detail. Thanks.
Matt. As always great info in the latest and greatest in our industry!. As you could imagine we listen to the build show driving between jobs. Suggestion. Please include price comparables. Why? It takes a lot of precious time to compare and contrast pricing. If you have the contractor right in front of you just ask him. I'm sure he has run the numbers. Thanks again. Happy Easter! Respectfully, Ken
About the same price as vertical grain cedar, but much, much faster install time.
Had to pull the SDS sheet to find out what this stuff is made of:
- Coal Fly Ash
- Fiberglass
- Polyurethane
Not exactly the ECO choice.
it's a tough call, but it could be considered eco-friendly as this product will outlast nearly all other claddings by x3 x4 possibly more. the savings in the labor of residing. reduced landfill from replacement, it will hold paint x2 due to lack of movement so less painting is required over the years, No bug damage. so yes i agree the material is not ECO but it will show savings over the next 100 years which is a saving to the environment. I like to think of this material as the new asbestos...It will last forever
None of those things will hurt you... unless you make a club out of them.
@@johnbergstrom2931 That's right. Don't eat it and you'll be fine. Almost everything is poisonous in large amounts, and you can't hide from everything. (though some people wear a mask alone in their car)
@@Bob_Adkins yeah they only hurt the installers lungs
@@Bob_Adkins incorrect. The chemicals used in their manufacture and byproducts are famously toxic. Disposal is a problem. Cutting this material creates microparticle dust that gets into your lungs potentially, and into the environment certainly. Saying it does no harm is woefully naive, or recklessly misleading.
I'm a big fan of Boral - it works great to match the look of wood without movement of PVC and it take paint great! What are you using for soffit vent with Boral? I'm trying to find a better product than the standard/chintzy aluminum strip venting.
How does this product compare in ease of installation and in duration to HardyBoard or HardyPlank?
lot lighter for 1, others can chime in.
A bit flimsier than Hardie, made worse because of the 16 ft. lengths…but that also means you’ll have fewer cuts. It’s great because you don’t have to edge prime and can face or blind nail, where Hardie recommends only blind nailing. It doesn’t come pre-painted, but I found it easier to install than Hardie. Hardie is heavier. Boral is easier to nail through. With Hardie, I always worry about blowout unless I pre-drill/hand nail.
Both accurate comments. 30% fewer butt joints, no clearance restrictions, no edge/cut sealing. (HUGE time savings), easy to patch and fill if damaged, no special safety precautions.
I had boral sitting in bucket of water for months and through winter months and some still sitting outside for uears unpainted. No swelling.
I wonder if itcwas coated with something like smartside uses on their osb siding how awesome it would be.
Unlike prefinished products (which almost exclusively receive a spray finish) field finished poly-ash products allow for easier handling during installation, concealment of any and all face fasteners, the ability to get exactly the right color and sheen and, most importantly, the ability to EASILY repair any type of damage well into the future and conceal the patch - prefinished sidings just can’t pull that off.
How does this product hold up to a gas grill next to a wall on a back deck? The "poly" part of the name seems to indicate some plastic content....Is it fire resistant like Hardie siding?
Great question. Highly resistant. You won’t have an issue. Class A for smoke and Class B for flamespread. No plastic.
This is Boral true exterior material milled.
For field butt joints... Are we putting flashing strips behind these like Hardie, or can we scarf joint maybe?
Simple butt joint is fine if you use a drain plane product like HydroGap.
@@durationmouldingmillwork9450 thank you!
Matt, What's the cost difference between this and Hardi?
Lamo😂 if you got to ask it out of your price range. I would say 2 times or 3 times cost. On the lower end
$83 dollars a board for the lap siding
@@adamkubiak9760 so about $10 SQ ft vs $3-5sq ft
@@danbob1650 no its quite ltierally 10x the price of the equivalent size of hardie board, i wish it was only 2x the price
@@creechmeister I'm usually just installing stuff. So I didn't want undercut the lower end stuff. 😂
Bora n Aztec trim is normally for me.
Math at $83 ea 16' x 6" reveal is $10ish SQ ft
Nice stuff for sure
So, what s the fire resistance of this product versus Hardie fiber cement?
fire proof siding and roofing?
Can these be installed over 2 x 4 furring @ 16" o.c. over mineral board insulation? Also can the clapboards be blind nailed?
Yes and yes!
Cutting this product onsite just contaminates the soil around the house and the environment with micro plastics and heavy metals from the ash.
Untrue. But while we’re at it, let’s look at fiber cement, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), vinyl, treated lumber. Not sure why the material would be left behind on someone’s property.
@@durationmouldingmillwork9450 Not sure how you can say untrue? In the past 25 years, not once have I ever seen a contractor installing siding on a house bring a dust collection system to the job site. And I agree with you that they leave behind PVC cuttings, treated lumber sawdust, etc. What is the source of the ash used in your product? If it is fly ash from power plants then it contains heavy metals and other contaminants.
Another benefit is that since they are standard historical profiles, you can replace pieces in the future with cedar if the boral ever gets discontinued. The profiles match exactly to stock wood profiles. People who currently have beaded hardie, for example, are screwed if they don’t have extra on hand. Same with LP and regular hardie.
We match all brands and customs. We routinely supply a “Masonite” siding replacement to the Carolinas
Question......Does this material come in cedar shake look?
Yes, we have a 4’ shake panel.
Hey Matt do you have videos on or is it even to possible to make homes that would resist flooding? Just an interest thought theory to a wheelchair bound man. I know you are big on make homes air tight, but is it possible to make them water tight?
house boat
Why don't you guys use something like WPC boards?
Is this subject to reservoir siding code changes?
How is this better than hardie? Or even vinyl?
There’s a whole listing on our website. Unlike fiber cement: better texture, will not absorb moisture, no edge sealing, no clearance restrictions, sandable, easily patched , filled, and sanded, can be installed in any temperature, no special safety precautions for cutting, can be milled, has complimentary mouldings… and a whole lot more… especially a very handsome shadow line.
@Robert John Thomas have you even seen the product?
Flyash has silica. Does cutting it require a respirator?
Common sense says use a mask with ANYTHING that creates dust. TruEx has encapsulated silica - far different than the silica found in fiber cement.
I was about to ask about Boral.
Curious how this product differs from Boral?
Same exact product. They bought it from Boral
Clarification - TruEx was developed by Boral and Westlake purchases Boral. The “Boral” name is going away in light building materials. DURATION fabricates all products from Westlake TruExterior poly-ash.
Did they ever say what makes Poly Ash. I heard them say everything that its not. I missed what the ingrediants are that make up the product.
Fly ash from coal, polyurethane, fiberglass.
It’s like a totally hip way to encase your home in fossil fuels.
How are the fire ratings?
Class A for smoke and Class B for flame spread. We left pieces in a campfire overnight and it simply chatted. Has CalFire WUI listing.
Amount of embodied carbon?
love the idea but every time i go on the duration website i get a 404 error. Perhaps due to being in Jamaica..lol..
Are there fire Guita retardant ?
Boom - first one. Always good stuff
Appreciate that!
Would the Poly-Ash nickel gap product be suitable to use indoors as an interior finish in a basement/garage walls (mold resistance)?
Do the Duration Poly-Ash products have any fire resistance/rating?
Forget this question: Found the information: (Smoke Developed: Class A (< 450 ) - Flame Spread: Class B (< 35 )
Yep. Often sold for flood-prone areas so that it can simply be cleaned when the water recedes. No moisture, no food source, no mold - you need both (along with temperature) to have mold growth.
do we really need more plastic in our lives ? what do you do with the hazardous waste from this product ?
No plastic. Who told you that?
From what I gather from below and the general internet, this is very pricy. The purists want cedar but sometimes ( or more?) other woods were used initially as siding and shingles- depends on the local historic people who are all over the map on what constitutes an "acceptable" reconstruction. I always say: are our best ideas behind us and who will really maintain the rehab for the LONG term if it is vulnerable to decay? If this is a 50 plus year product, that would help reduce the landfill pileup from demos.
Definitely a 100+ year product in our opinion. Only composite that routinely is accepted in historically sensitive areas e.g. the Old South Church in Boston. About the same price as cedar but 4-6 faster times install and incomparable performance… without losing the aesthetics
I really trust Matt's recommendations, but remember this is a sponsored video not necessarily something he personally thinks is best. Also its a sponsored video that doesn't talk about costs.
Almost every product I've ever seen showcased on this channel doesn't exist in my state. Apparently, it's all only available directly from the manufacturer
what do you mean by 'exist'? on physical shelves collecting dust? probably not. but there is the internet which means you can quite literally buy anything you are willing to sign the check for,
@Steve Crawford
If the products are "in stores and collecting dust", that means people don't want them.
We supply the entire contiguous United Stated.
Cool but is it impervious to woodpeckers though? Cause I've got this one bird that is single handedly destroying my house and theres literally nothing anybody can do about it cause he federally protected.
Call and exterminator for the bugs in your walls…that’s what the woodpecker is after!
I understand that woodpeckers aren’t interested in this.
@@jezza6575 there ain't any bugs in my wood! 😓
It’s only illegal if you get caught!
Haven't you heard of the "3 S'" method?
No fire rating on poly, stained/painted cedar has a fire rating
Not sure what the comment is. Class A for smoke and Class B for Flame spread.
Are there any innovative brick materials? Instead of having wrap, siding, wood, insulation, drywall etc. Would be so nice to just stack bricks and have a house as people have done since ancient Egypt. Would be much more protective against fire, flooding, falling trees as well
You want AAC
I want to see an AAC job!
Brick and mortar absorb water and transmit it to the inside.
These are great products but unfortunately the local construction products stores do not carry these products.
Look at their website for distribution
That’s true, but Duration is very helpful in finding a distributor near you. They sell through Westlake Royal, so you likely have a distributor pretty close to you that can order most profiles within a week or two. The Duration siding I used on my house arrived in less than two weeks.
We service the entire contiguous United States.
Do woodpeckers and squirrels ever go at this stuff? We cut back the trees enough that the squirrels shouldn't be a problem, but no way to keep the woodpeckers off the house.
...ash in general contains trace levels of trace elements (such as arsenic, barium, beryllium, boron, cadmium, chromium, thallium, selenium, molybdenum and mercury), many of which are highly toxic to humans and other life... Well, I skip this awesome BS, thanks
everything produced contains trace levels of trace elements.
With all due respect, there’s arsenic in a lobster dinner. The material has been through a litany of safety tests.
It seems crazy that roofs and siding are still made from materials that need to be replaced every 20 - 30 years.
Roofs and siding needs to be made to last the life of the home. Why pay to get your roof or siding replaced in 20 years when you can buy a product that can last forever.
We believe this is a 100 year + product. Can we prove that - no. The law makes you state a timeframe. We have thousands of real world conditions with no product failure in 12+ years. We have thousands of images of other failed products in far fewer years. We’ve been in building materials for four decades - nothing comes close to poly-ash.
Why are these builders not using Everlast? Seriously - it’s the best option in every regard.
Ha! 😂😂😂😂
@@buildshow, could you please elaborate on your comment about Everlast siding? I'm currently researching siding for our project and was considering Everlast or Celect PVC siding. Is there a reason you don't like it?
@@GForceFitness1 Search for "Everlast siding problems"
@@buildshow please, elaborate. I love your channel, but realize it's about sponsors and big $$$ to an extent. I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering what y'all have against a product that can handle a baseball bat, is as easy to install as vinyl, and NEVER needs maintenance (aside from the occasional hose down.
@@GForceFitness1 pretty sure it's because they don't pay him to promote it. His silence speaks volumes.
Fire resistance vs hardi
Class A for smoke developed and Class B for flame spread. I would encourage you to see for yourself by taking a torch to a small sample piece.
Cal Fire WUI listing too
Hardy!
dust from this stuff is terrible, the company is all vague about its safety rating but its basically fiber cement. it ruins blades and that dust burns out your saws faster. probably use dust extraction. it is much better than james hardie though.
According to the Boral SDS 80% of it is fly ash which is a known toxin and environmental pollutant.
Nothing like fiber cement. You take take an old carbide blade used on wood and use it on poly-ash. It will cut beautifully for a very long time. Use it solely on poly-ash from that point on. We call this dedicating the blade. If you cut one piece of wood with it, throw the blade away. We cut, rip, and mill poly-ash all day long with the same machinery we’ve had for over a decade. It requires good dust extraction. Let us mill and rip - you just cross cut. 😊
So more petrochem based building products. Yay.
No one is taping and sanding nail holes
Yes they are. And it delivers a premium finish.
Sorry but I’ll stick with Hardie and it’s fireproof qualities and I have zero interest in anything using polymers aka plastic analogues
I can’t fault you. I like Hardie too. Used it on my house. That being said the true bevel on this is pretty nice. Definitely nicer up close than a standard cement board.
No plastic. Class A for frame and Class B for smoke.
Fiber cement dust is a known carcinogen- right in their install instructions.
@@durationmouldingmillwork9450 Did they ever fix the structural weakness issues with it? I recall a few years ago a review where it snaps easily compared to wood and doesn't have the same structural strength...did they improve that yet?
@@DrMJJr it’s not a structural product. No changes.
@0:00 Matt Risinger; before and after Weight Watchers.
I kid Wade Paquin, I really do.
I priced out the price on this siding. It was $292.00 APIECE!!!! That would way over $35,000 just for materials for my little house. This channel is for rich, wealthy people. Not me.
Please give us a call. Something radically wrong with that pricing. 🙏
The bevel siding SUCKS we did a whole house and had nothing but problems, the trim is nice for windows and corners, but soffit with long runs it seems to move seen it on 2 jobs. The dust is TERRIBLE for you, need to wear a mask and dust collection is nice, I've been told the dust can contaminate ground water with time
Please e-mail us details on this. Original Boral beveled or ours? No claims to date on ours.
When prices don’t matter…
Hooray more industrial waste mixed w plastic! Bet it holds up great, good for the homeowner bad for the installers health
I’ve been in the industry since I was 15- 41 now and I’m phasing myself out since cutting and working w real wood has become a rare luxury
yeah this dust is terrible, they have all this BS paperwork saying just do it outside and that it can cause respiratory distress esp in asthmatics. we just did a house in this stuff and I took all my saws apart and used compressed air to clean the bearings. the dust doesn't linger in the air like fiber cement but when you do rip cuts with it I would use dust extraction. probably best to wear a mask with this crap even if the company really doesn't specify. james hardie as a company seems to have a lot more respect for the installers than many other corporations. I would bet a fortune that this garbage is gonna give me kidney damage and some kind of cancer down the road.
No masks worn at the TruEx factory. You should where a mask cutting ANYTHING in the field. Read the fine print on fiber cement cutting.
So what happens when the coal industry drys up?
looks like everyting else
Look closer. No other truly beveled composite on the market. It does look like real cedar though.
4 times the coast. Way to hi of a price. Just can't justify that.
Tiktok.
STOP promoting CCP's TikTok.
Why is tiktok bad because it's CCP while we have our own government controlled FB (Twitter before Musk now controls it), UA-cam and Google that control our news and information far more than anything tiktok could possibly do? In fact, you can find nothing but the most fire conspiracy theories on tiktok including the moon landings, deep state, skull and bones, bush family stuff, Clinton's and epstien Island content.
Try doing any of that with UA-cam.
CCP is peanuts compared to the juhish ownership of america. We've got bigger problems.
agree, 100%!
Have you figured it out, whenever they give you a demon to hate its because they're stripping you of more of your rights.
I want freedom! I want choice! But please Big Government ban things I’m scared of and am too weak to manage myself.
Is there anything Matt wouldn’t promote if he was paid. 🤫
Your comments.
With the rapid decline in coal power (the source of the ash) this product will not outlive cedar.
3 new coal plants go up every WEEK in China.
@@stevecrawford6958 yet the total amount of coal power generated in china is almost constant. Something for you to wonder about.
@@odonald6087 china stats are 100% reliable, what are you talking about? :) yea take anything from there with a grain of flyash.
Steve is right, but there’s over a 100 year supply of fly ash if coal production stopped today. Third largest waste byproduct by volume in the world we’re told. TruEx takes a waste product and produces siding and trim that we believe will outlast us all.