There are tons of similar videos on UA-cam about every issue ScannerDanner brings up to us, but the question is that there no one at all to teach us how to diagnose, find, and repair the issue in this details with smartest way to do it and the most cheap and efficient way of repair, so knowledge and money saving at your own hands on the couch probably watching that video for free. Technically we make money as a DIYrs cause the money we save is extra cash we have saved. Phenomenal content as always ScannerDanner. Thank you
@@ScannerDannerLess or High resistance!!! Can you please ANSWER this? Basically, a Car Centre Dome Light has 3 wires.. gnd, const 12v and door wire. Say, the switch is put to DOOR position, and if any door is opened, the light will remain ON for 15 minutes until all doors are closed. Now, just for example, if the halogen bulb is replaced with another LOAD which has much more RESISTANCE, then what will be the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME?? Will the light still remain ON for 15 minutes or shorter??? What's the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME with respect to the resistance of the load/bulb/LED???Less or High resistance!!! Can you please ANSWER this? Basically, a Car Centre Dome Light has 3 wires.. gnd, const 12v and door wire. Say, the switch is put to DOOR position, and if any door is opened, the light will remain ON for 15 minutes until all doors are closed. Now, just for example, if the halogen bulb is replaced with another LOAD which has much more RESISTANCE, then what will be the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME?? Will the light still remain ON for 15 minutes or shorter??? What's the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME with respect to the resistance of the load/bulb/LED???
Your videos are awesome I'm starting to understand all this because of you, nobody teaches like you do so I will try to adapt your teaching style and pass it on to the students I will teach when I become an instructor
I bought that TopDon scanner you used to keep in the car for “emergency” situations etc. I was highly impressed by its capabilities. The TopPro has been very good so far and is way beyond what I expected.
@@egx161 I believe the initial,purchase comes with the ability to download into the app several manufacturers etc. I do believe specific manufacturers will charge a 20 dollar fee if you want to upgrade to latest data in future after first year. Autel does a similar set up too. I am not 100 percent sure if you have to purchase your manufacturer every year or not but it is about 20 bucks per brand.
That clip on the aftermarket hubs sucks. I always remove the factory clip and re-use it. I did a repair on a wheel speed sensor on a Lexus last year. The sensor was just under $500 with shipping, so I opted for a wire repair instead. That was one happy customer.
I personally think a good shrink wrap (the one with the internal glue) is okay. Especially when it's on a stretch that's secured to the chassis. On the unsecured part that flexes as the wheel moves, not so much.
That's awesome 👌, You can't believe what I'm capable to do now,it's a lot .I have a lifetime skill now.im support my family, paying my bills ,driving a car ,all acquired from your training .what I like you really tried hard to use basic and affordable tools for some of us to afford. Thanks Paul
Good catch, Paul. It looks like the connector fitment inside the metal bracket was too loose because the aging plastic lost flexibility. Then the wire got yanked, tearing internal wires without disrupting the overlying cover.
I have the Phoenix and picked the $59 top scan (because I didn’t know there was a pro version, lol ) but so far I’m impressed. In fact it came up with the same codes on my 13 focus, no abs light. Haven’t had a chance to troubleshoot yet DON’T TELL ME WHATS WRONG I WANNA FIGURE OUT MYSELF!!! lol thanks Paul !
Thanks for sharing SD👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 You did the right thing by not claiming warranty on the hub, truly appreciate your honesty👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 SD your truck needs a good detailing😇 Stay Blessed BRO🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video to help the diy er on how to and use inexpensive tools. Also Timken makes a great bearing because you don’t always know what’s in a Napa box .
@@55azguyTimken, INA, FAG, NTN are all great bearings, along with SKF. But buy from reputable suppliers, because unfortunately you find a lot of fake parts that bear the name of a reputable make, but are not as good, and fail fast.
I caught one of these at a Chevy MAF sensor connector once. The insulation was perfect, but it was floppy, and tugging on the wire, it was stretchy where the strands were broken inside.
I see this kind of wiring damage quite often on accident vehicles. Usually shops are pretty good about spotting busted harnesses, but I get quite a few calls saying "The harness looks good, we went over it several times," only to find this kind of internal damage, and you absolutely can feel it if you run your fingers over it!
Or exhaust places, who stress the harness, and cause issues down the line because they either broke a wire and just repaired it with tape, or damaged connectors or the latches, or lost the waterproofing seals in them. Took me a while to track that down. But did do something that they said was impossible, and do an EGR delete on a Chevy Cruze, as EGR is not mandatory by me, neither is a cat.
Solder or crimp. I know factory splices are always crimped. But the most important think is a proper seal when your done and it MUST be the adhesive lined heat shrink
Hello I know this video dont really go with my question but my question is: I connected my gages and vacuum to my trucks ac and waited 30 minutes and then turned the pump off and forgot to shut off the valves and when I came back to check it I saw oil in the little window I think it sucked oil from the pump in to the ac when I stopped the pump the guage was at about -27 I turned the pump back on hoping it would suck the oil out my question is do you think the pump will suck all the oil out and if not will it cause issues with the ac?
Nice find Paul. If it hasn’t been mentioned yet there’s a yellow banana adapter in your uscope kit labeled “AC filter” that’s how you AC couple the uscope.. there is also one in there for primary ignition which is essentially an attenuator. I hope I was able to pay it forward and teach ScannerDanner something 🙏🏼
that's a terrible naming job they did. AC Filter should mean it filters out AC and only passes DC. they should have called it a "DC block, filter " or similar. lol **edit: I looked at it online and it's called "AC Pass Filter" which makes more sense, than just AC Filter.
using the diode function you should be able to get a reading in one directon but i've found that doesnt always mean anything. best test is a powered up function test. such as he did spinning the hub.
I have a question about these modules. I'm currently troubleshooting the ABS system on a 2006 Ford Taurus. I'm followingy behind somebody who has changed out the master cylinder in an attempt to bleed the system. Do i need to hook up a scan tool to accomplish a bleed or is there a way to do it without my scantool?
Sorry back again. I've watched the video 3 times now but can't see clearly enough. Is the sensor being powered when testing for the waveform? Secondly does the power feed have to be loaded to get a voltage reading? Thank you in anticipation. Chris.
Yes. These sensors require power (which comes from the module). How the internals work in detail? I'm not your guy for that answer. I have a few other videos on these in my ABS systems playlist where I go in detail more but I never truly get into the internals of a "magneto-resistive sensor". In part because there are variables designs. I focus on the signal circuit and the testing
@@ScannerDanner Really appreciate your reply on a Sunday ( sorry to disturb you). I''ll check your other tutorials too. I was a tech back in the 60's and now retired trying to relearn my old skills. It is so good of all you contributors giving out hard eared knowledge. Kindest regards. Chris.
2000 toyota sienna ,sometimes when I start the car I have very lows rpm and check the voltage in both battery and the alternator and has 12.5 ,but when I push de acceledator the rpm go up and begin charging.what can cause this?
Anybody have suggestions for a signal generator for something like a pulse width modulated signal, ac signal. Something that is fairly reasonably priced?
trying to find one that has both pulse width and a/c sine is not easy . i got an fg-100 dds function generator on amazon. it will do square and sine but havent had a chance to play with it yet
Hey ScannerDanner (paul danner) how is it that every video i watch seems to be your vehicles or your families? What kind of vehicles do you all get that you always have that many problems? Do you get beater cars and trucks for nothing snd flip them after fixing them up
(that was a joke if it wasnt obvious) Ps, quick question...could you have switched the multimeter to ac and spun the hub? (edit...i should have watched the whole video first...looks like ac wouldn't have worked)
I have a huge question I cannot get an answer to. I emailed Klien tools, snap on tool truck didn't help, my other tool truck didn't help.... It's a stupid question but why can't I find a set of back probes that fir my multimeter! I even bought another multimeter...PLEASE HELP ME.
I have a klien meter and just bought a cheap lang meter with standard test probes. (Aren't those the leads)? 2 sets of back probes that don't fit either one. I thought they were all standard and the same...idk. well thanks anyway. Love all your videos!
Paul, Im not sure if you are aware but this scanner charges a $50-$100 subscription fee after a year if you want to keep using the tool. Just a thing to keep in mind for anyone that is thinking of purchasing this scanner. I wish you could just buy and own it :(
@@ScannerDannerI just realized I unconsciously called you dan even though I know it’s Paul. As a broke college student I can’t afford it but I wish I could. Hope you are having a good day.
Hmm.... to me (in FIN market area) it's 90% not seen by "naked eye" when the wire in side has green infection... ...the other then is when winter(studs) /summer tyres get swiched the abs wire get binced betwean the wheel and the shock and cut was made. But then again your lucky if you find active aftermarket ABS-sensor that works, on any car. ...Specially if they are rounded with garbage bag for you that says some thing like "if opened no return!" ...that means "DWD" Dead When D...! one car had ~10 different aftermarket makers for abs sensors for the car and the cheapest without back worked funny thing was some of them showed speed on scan pid!!! but the dtc come back secend you put power on! and dvom showed why. it tested differently then the original! PS.on active switch polarity of the leads when testing! some of them has diode or something as they shold be OL other way and like 1.6Kohm other... ...im at 2:34 so sorry if you already talk this on video. EDIT: 5:52 remember the suspension moves. So the wire can need to bee longer when wheel turned (all the way) and its bottoms up with bump on road! I find Mercedes VAN ABS sensor that run from back to front...(Yes ask customer first! dos he/she want you to run the cabel and strip the van or can you cut and keep the extra wire first!!!! EDIT2: 7:00 Yes you can! .. atlest every one that i have needed to test! Yes! one way can be OL switch the leads ON THE METER SIDE! and Heureca. PS usually the 4 sensors have same walue but at lest the same axel has the same resistans when all is good ! EDIT3: 8:00 Again OL only on one way! Both ways is bad sensor! At least everytime in here and YES some times only ORIGINAL WORKS AS Covid copied SHIT to aftermarket sales!!!! EDIT4: 11:17 Then eather you have weak battery on your DVOM or you dint think to test it other way around! the same gos with injectors thes days so come on!!!! EDIT5: 14:40 So, the how you explain this? ..They arent OL anymore? I expect the active sensor has protection for wrong way voltage/current or some a mount and thats why its "OL" for one way and go for other... EDIT6: So is it OL both ways or not? if it is thenthats the first for me But then again i hardly work on USA cars in Finland so most of them are EU and man my brean.... Sorry my bad English! and hay just now i noticed that i see this on YT and not on sd.own site so sorry as i pay it i wil be back after summer vacation.. you can count on that! ;)
Less or High resistance!!! Can you please ANSWER this? Basically, a Car Centre Dome Light has 3 wires.. gnd, const 12v and door wire. Say, the switch is put to DOOR position, and if any door is opened, the light will remain ON for 15 minutes until all doors are closed. Now, just for example, if the halogen bulb is replaced with another LOAD which has much more RESISTANCE, then what will be the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME?? Will the light still remain ON for 15 minutes or shorter??? What's the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME with respect to the resistance of the load/bulb/LED???
Too much of a hypothetical question as there are so many variations out there. Year, make, model and exact circuit would be needed. What you are describing is not typical
@@ScannerDanner it's i20 2023. It has 3 wires... Gnd, 12v constant and door wire. I want to know whether the resistance of the load/halogen bulb has any effects on the delay off time when any door is opened. Suppose, if the halogen bulb which is rated 12V 10W is replaced with a LED bulb, what will be the effect on the time delay off?? Obvious, LEDs are always lower watts.
@@tnamen1307im certain the wire youre calling a door wire is not in any way attached to the door. That bulb circuit sounds like a module on a LIN bus, which means you most likely can't change that bulb to something other than what it was designed for
@@ScannerDanner when the switch is put to DOOR, one end of the bulb is always const 12v, and the other end is TEMPORARY 12V. Now, if any door is opened, this 12V immediately drops to 0V, and bulb glows. And in 15 minutes, it gradually rises upto again 12V from 0V which turns off the bulb. This is how it works.
I bet it hooked the tread in the tire and yanked on it hard.. and the outer sheath was able to stretch, but the wire inside broke.. Especially if you have tread on the sidewalls of your tires.
It was only bouncing off of the smooth sidewall. This is what vibration does. I've seen it countless times, especially on EVAP vent solenoids due to there location.
@@ScannerDanner I hate butt connectors I am very much a solder appropriate seize gauge and length. Use double wall or single wall with liquid electrical tape person. If the wire is shielded or needs to be shield I use shielded 1, 2, 3, 4 etc core wire. Yes I know it is a real pain doing that small and in depth wire repair. Heck it is hard for me these days because my hands aren't stable like they used to be, but I truly believe that is the right way to do it. Generally the only time I use butt connectors is for temporarily fix or testing purposes.
That's interesting. Now wait till they roll out with wheel sensors with internal batteries like TPMS where you get to replace the hub/bearing whenever the battery is depleted. Thank me later when GM engineering read this.
So off topic but why would an michanic/ technician tell someone that there's still cars from 2006 still using obd1 only when in 95 it switched to obd2? He says there's makes and models that still use only obd1 in 2006 but from what I know this is misinformation?
@ScannerDanner that's what I was saying cause it was government law that made them change it all to be universal plugs for all makes and an universal code system in 96 and obd1 was obsolete
not great at stripping outer cable jacketing off. "check"☑ . lol, you probably haven't stripped enough small cabling over the years, I have done tons of coax, phone, ethernet and about every other type of wire you can think of, of course I also have special strippers for most of it, but many things you just have to use a knife carefully. generally I use a slightly worn blade and gently go around the whole diameter not cutting in full depth, then sharp flexing it will snap it off there. I know the abs ones are very rubbery and that doesn't work well, repaired plenty of them and they are a pain, even with magical tools. 🤯
This was a brand new install (hub,bearing, sensor). I wasn't going to drop another $300 on my own truck for a couple broken wires. But I wouldn't argue with you on a customers car. Probably would have still done this repair though
![Intermittent No Start [Magnetic Type Crank Sensor Testing - ALL CARS!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tqnNsFdifSE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Intermittent No Start [Magnetic Type Crank Sensor Testing - ALL CARS!]](/img/tr.png)
![Misfire Diagnostic Fundamentals [98 Toyota Camry]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KevJNoaywHc/mqdefault.jpg)
There are tons of similar videos on UA-cam about every issue ScannerDanner brings up to us, but the question is that there no one at all to teach us how to diagnose, find, and repair the issue in this details with smartest way to do it and the most cheap and efficient way of repair, so knowledge and money saving at your own hands on the couch probably watching that video for free. Technically we make money as a DIYrs cause the money we save is extra cash we have saved. Phenomenal content as always ScannerDanner.
Thank you
Thank you so much!
shout out from South main Auto who said to come watch your videos to lean about voltage drop.
That's awesome! Tell Eric I said thank you
@@ScannerDannerLess or High resistance!!!
Can you please ANSWER this?
Basically, a Car Centre Dome Light has 3 wires.. gnd, const 12v and door wire.
Say, the switch is put to DOOR position, and if any door is opened, the light will remain ON for 15 minutes until all doors are closed.
Now, just for example, if the halogen bulb is replaced with another LOAD which has much more RESISTANCE, then what will be the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME?? Will the light still remain ON for 15 minutes or shorter???
What's the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME with respect to the resistance of the load/bulb/LED???Less or High resistance!!!
Can you please ANSWER this?
Basically, a Car Centre Dome Light has 3 wires.. gnd, const 12v and door wire.
Say, the switch is put to DOOR position, and if any door is opened, the light will remain ON for 15 minutes until all doors are closed.
Now, just for example, if the halogen bulb is replaced with another LOAD which has much more RESISTANCE, then what will be the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME?? Will the light still remain ON for 15 minutes or shorter???
What's the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME with respect to the resistance of the load/bulb/LED???
Your videos are awesome I'm starting to understand all this because of you, nobody teaches like you do so I will try to adapt your teaching style and pass it on to the students I will teach when I become an instructor
I bought that TopDon scanner you used to keep in the car for “emergency” situations etc. I was highly impressed by its capabilities. The TopPro has been very good so far and is way beyond what I expected.
Can you use the TopDon without the subscription service?
@@egx161 I believe the initial,purchase comes with the ability to download into the app several manufacturers etc. I do believe specific manufacturers will charge a 20 dollar fee if you want to upgrade to latest data in future after first year. Autel does a similar set up too. I am not 100 percent sure if you have to purchase your manufacturer every year or not but it is about 20 bucks per brand.
Yes you can. It's mainly for using the enhanced diagnostics.@@egx161
@@egx161yes I have one just need to register it with an email and you set up a password
Yes all the subscription service does is provide you constant updates to the newest vehicles and years @@egx161
Napa #notasponsor
Haha indeed
Amen
Nice find on broken wores inside good clean insulation happens alot more then people think 4:00 @ScannerDanner
That clip on the aftermarket hubs sucks. I always remove the factory clip and re-use it. I did a repair on a wheel speed sensor on a Lexus last year. The sensor was just under $500 with shipping, so I opted for a wire repair instead. That was one happy customer.
I personally think a good shrink wrap (the one with the internal glue) is okay. Especially when it's on a stretch that's secured to the chassis. On the unsecured part that flexes as the wheel moves, not so much.
That's awesome 👌, You can't believe what I'm capable to do now,it's a lot .I have a lifetime skill now.im support my family, paying my bills ,driving a car ,all acquired from your training .what I like you really tried hard to use basic and affordable tools for some of us to afford. Thanks Paul
This makes me so happy to hear my friend. May God continue to bless you on this path. Thank you for sharing!
Good catch, Paul. It looks like the connector fitment inside the metal bracket was too loose because the aging plastic lost flexibility. Then the wire got yanked, tearing internal wires without disrupting the overlying cover.
I have the Phoenix and picked the $59 top scan (because I didn’t know there was a pro version, lol ) but so far I’m impressed. In fact it came up with the same codes on my 13 focus, no abs light. Haven’t had a chance to troubleshoot yet DON’T TELL ME WHATS WRONG I WANNA FIGURE OUT MYSELF!!! lol thanks Paul !
Thanks for sharing SD👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You did the right thing by not claiming warranty on the hub, truly appreciate your honesty👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
SD your truck needs a good detailing😇
Stay Blessed BRO🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Good catch!
It's so true that vibrating wires causes the copper to work harden and then become brittle and then the strands begin to snap off.
Great video to help the diy er on how to and use inexpensive tools. Also Timken makes a great bearing because you don’t always know what’s in a Napa box .
NTN makes a better wheel bearing. Made in Japan.
@@egx161you are 💯 percent correct. I would never fear putting in either one. Timken was the first one that came to mind.
@@55azguyTimken, INA, FAG, NTN are all great bearings, along with SKF. But buy from reputable suppliers, because unfortunately you find a lot of fake parts that bear the name of a reputable make, but are not as good, and fail fast.
Nice fix! Of course I learned a little as well about these active sensors as well!
I caught one of these at a Chevy MAF sensor connector once. The insulation was perfect, but it was floppy, and tugging on the wire, it was stretchy where the strands were broken inside.
Once you see it one time, it becomes something you check for all the time!
We all make mistakes We are just human Nice video @ScannerDanner
Love the video Paul and Caleb!! Caleb is really to film full motion pictures ❤. God Bless you guys!
He's really perfected his craft. Thanks brother! Great the hear from you too
I see this kind of wiring damage quite often on accident vehicles. Usually shops are pretty good about spotting busted harnesses, but I get quite a few calls saying "The harness looks good, we went over it several times," only to find this kind of internal damage, and you absolutely can feel it if you run your fingers over it!
Or exhaust places, who stress the harness, and cause issues down the line because they either broke a wire and just repaired it with tape, or damaged connectors or the latches, or lost the waterproofing seals in them. Took me a while to track that down. But did do something that they said was impossible, and do an EGR delete on a Chevy Cruze, as EGR is not mandatory by me, neither is a cat.
Paul I just picked up those strippers for smaller gauge wires, they're GREAT!!
How did you know I was working on this very same problem.. no 4wd was the indication aswell as the mass of dash lights. Love your calming content.
Thank you!
What are your thoughts on solder joints? I've had great luck with them.
Solder or crimp. I know factory splices are always crimped. But the most important think is a proper seal when your done and it MUST be the adhesive lined heat shrink
Great video Paul 👍
Hello I know this video dont really go with my question but my question is: I connected my gages and vacuum to my trucks ac and waited 30 minutes and then turned the pump off and forgot to shut off the valves and when I came back to check it I saw oil in the little window I think it sucked oil from the pump in to the ac when I stopped the pump the guage was at about -27 I turned the pump back on hoping it would suck the oil out my question is do you think the pump will suck all the oil out and if not will it cause issues with the ac?
Nice find Paul. If it hasn’t been mentioned yet there’s a yellow banana adapter in your uscope kit labeled “AC filter” that’s how you AC couple the uscope.. there is also one in there for primary ignition which is essentially an attenuator. I hope I was able to pay it forward and teach ScannerDanner something 🙏🏼
Thanks for the info!
@@ScannerDanner my pleasure sir!
that's a terrible naming job they did. AC Filter should mean it filters out AC and only passes DC. they should have called it a "DC block, filter " or similar. lol
**edit: I looked at it online and it's called "AC Pass Filter" which makes more sense, than just AC Filter.
@@throttlebottle5906 maybe they renamed it but I’m 99%sure the little piece of heat shrink label on it says “AC filter” wish I had a picture of it lol
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
The sensor doesn't have any resistance at all? After repair
No, because of the internal electronics of an active wss
using the diode function you should be able to get a reading in one directon but i've found that doesnt always mean anything. best test is a powered up function test. such as he did spinning the hub.
Great video Paul. Another great video!!!
Do you recommend that test kead set and if so, what's the kit number? Thanks
100% and you can find it on my affiliate page here
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
Thanks Paul for another great video
I have a question about these modules. I'm currently troubleshooting the ABS system on a 2006 Ford Taurus. I'm followingy behind somebody who has changed out the master cylinder in an attempt to bleed the system. Do i need to hook up a scan tool to accomplish a bleed or is there a way to do it without my scantool?
Offhand, I do not know. Sorry
Sorry back again. I've watched the video 3 times now but can't see clearly enough. Is the sensor being powered when testing for the waveform? Secondly does the power feed have to be loaded to get a voltage reading? Thank you in anticipation. Chris.
Yes. These sensors require power (which comes from the module). How the internals work in detail? I'm not your guy for that answer.
I have a few other videos on these in my ABS systems playlist where I go in detail more but I never truly get into the internals of a "magneto-resistive sensor". In part because there are variables designs. I focus on the signal circuit and the testing
@@ScannerDanner Really appreciate your reply on a Sunday ( sorry to disturb you). I''ll check your other tutorials too. I was a tech back in the 60's and now retired trying to relearn my old skills. It is so good of all you contributors giving out hard eared knowledge. Kindest regards. Chris.
Great video as always!
Thanks Chris!
Great video Paul thanks for sharing!
Thank you for such great content 👍🏼
2000 toyota sienna ,sometimes when I start the car I have very lows rpm and check the voltage in both battery and the alternator and has 12.5 ,but when I push de acceledator the rpm go up and begin charging.what can cause this?
Low rpm would cause low alternator output. Clean your throttle body as a starting point
Were can one get that single channel lab scope
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
It's called a uScope
Anybody have suggestions for a signal generator for something like a pulse width modulated signal, ac signal. Something that is fairly reasonably priced?
trying to find one that has both pulse width and a/c sine is not easy . i got an fg-100 dds function generator on amazon. it will do square and sine but havent had a chance to play with it yet
Hey ScannerDanner (paul danner) how is it that every video i watch seems to be your vehicles or your families?
What kind of vehicles do you all get that you always have that many problems?
Do you get beater cars and trucks for nothing snd flip them after fixing them up
😅 with over 1300 video here, you just haven't watched enough of them yet
Brilliant, thanks Danner.
Very common with wires exposed to vibration. The copper cores work harden, and then become brittle and fatigue.
this is why you should always have a pro do the work on your car - not some hack working out of their driveway😂
(that was a joke if it wasnt obvious) Ps, quick question...could you have switched the multimeter to ac and spun the hub? (edit...i should have watched the whole video first...looks like ac wouldn't have worked)
😆
I have a huge question I cannot get an answer to. I emailed Klien tools, snap on tool truck didn't help, my other tool truck didn't help....
It's a stupid question but why can't I find a set of back probes that fir my multimeter! I even bought another multimeter...PLEASE HELP ME.
There isn't a chance I can help with that. How could I know what leads you have?
I have a klien meter and just bought a cheap lang meter with standard test probes. (Aren't those the leads)? 2 sets of back probes that don't fit either one. I thought they were all standard and the same...idk. well thanks anyway. Love all your videos!
Paul, Im not sure if you are aware but this scanner charges a $50-$100 subscription fee after a year if you want to keep using the tool. Just a thing to keep in mind for anyone that is thinking of purchasing this scanner. I wish you could just buy and own it :(
And still 100% worth it
@@ScannerDannerI just realized I unconsciously called you dan even though I know it’s Paul. As a broke college student I can’t afford it but I wish I could. Hope you are having a good day.
I want to see where it has a damaged, still watching now
Hmm.... to me (in FIN market area) it's 90% not seen by "naked eye" when the wire in side has green infection... ...the other then is when winter(studs) /summer tyres get swiched the abs wire get binced betwean the wheel and the shock and cut was made.
But then again your lucky if you find active aftermarket ABS-sensor that works, on any car. ...Specially if they are rounded with garbage bag for you that says some thing like "if opened no return!"
...that means "DWD" Dead When D...! one car had ~10 different aftermarket makers for abs sensors for the car and the cheapest without back worked funny thing was some of them showed speed on scan pid!!! but the dtc come back secend you put power on! and dvom showed why. it tested differently then the original!
PS.on active switch polarity of the leads when testing! some of them has diode or something as they shold be OL other way and like 1.6Kohm other...
...im at 2:34 so sorry if you already talk this on video.
EDIT: 5:52 remember the suspension moves. So the wire can need to bee longer when wheel turned (all the way) and its bottoms up with bump on road!
I find Mercedes VAN ABS sensor that run from back to front...(Yes ask customer first! dos he/she want you to run the cabel and strip the van or can you cut and keep the extra wire first!!!!
EDIT2: 7:00 Yes you can! .. atlest every one that i have needed to test!
Yes! one way can be OL switch the leads ON THE METER SIDE! and Heureca.
PS usually the 4 sensors have same walue but at lest the same axel has the same resistans when all is good !
EDIT3: 8:00 Again OL only on one way! Both ways is bad sensor! At least everytime in here and YES some times only ORIGINAL WORKS AS Covid copied SHIT to aftermarket sales!!!!
EDIT4: 11:17 Then eather you have weak battery on your DVOM or you dint think to test it other way around! the same gos with injectors thes days so come on!!!!
EDIT5: 14:40 So, the how you explain this? ..They arent OL anymore?
I expect the active sensor has protection for wrong way voltage/current or some a mount and thats why its "OL" for one way and go for other...
EDIT6: So is it OL both ways or not? if it is thenthats the first for me But then again i hardly work on USA cars in Finland so most of them are EU and man my brean....
Sorry my bad English! and hay just now i noticed that i see this on YT and not on sd.own site so sorry as i pay it i wil be back after summer vacation.. you can count on that! ;)
Next time I'll try switching polarity. Good suggestion!
My guess?
The heat from abrasion melted the insulation inside the cable so the two inner conductors shorted.
Well, that went south quickly after I posted it!
Less or High resistance!!!
Can you please ANSWER this?
Basically, a Car Centre Dome Light has 3 wires.. gnd, const 12v and door wire.
Say, the switch is put to DOOR position, and if any door is opened, the light will remain ON for 15 minutes until all doors are closed.
Now, just for example, if the halogen bulb is replaced with another LOAD which has much more RESISTANCE, then what will be the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME?? Will the light still remain ON for 15 minutes or shorter???
What's the effect on the DELAY OFF TIME with respect to the resistance of the load/bulb/LED???
Too much of a hypothetical question as there are so many variations out there. Year, make, model and exact circuit would be needed. What you are describing is not typical
@@ScannerDanner it's i20 2023. It has 3 wires... Gnd, 12v constant and door wire.
I want to know whether the resistance of the load/halogen bulb has any effects on the delay off time when any door is opened.
Suppose, if the halogen bulb which is rated 12V 10W is replaced with a LED bulb, what will be the effect on the time delay off?? Obvious, LEDs are always lower watts.
@tnamen1307 no way I can answer this without studying the circuit design
@@tnamen1307im certain the wire youre calling a door wire is not in any way attached to the door. That bulb circuit sounds like a module on a LIN bus, which means you most likely can't change that bulb to something other than what it was designed for
@@ScannerDanner when the switch is put to DOOR, one end of the bulb is always const 12v, and the other end is TEMPORARY 12V. Now, if any door is opened, this 12V immediately drops to 0V, and bulb glows. And in 15 minutes, it gradually rises upto again 12V from 0V which turns off the bulb. This is how it works.
Thank you for this video.
My pleasure!
Another great video
Приятно смотреть, Хоршший душевный фильм под пение птиц 👍
Love the birds!
I bet it hooked the tread in the tire and yanked on it hard.. and the outer sheath was able to stretch, but the wire inside broke.. Especially if you have tread on the sidewalls of your tires.
It was only bouncing off of the smooth sidewall. This is what vibration does. I've seen it countless times, especially on EVAP vent solenoids due to there location.
great video, everything except seeing those rollerblades, someone has to pay that away 😁
Tore my ACL in Nov. I'm finally skating again! Beer league here I come!
Thanks.
You're welcome
my OCD is kicking in on that wire repair Danner....
What did I need to do different? 😃 I completely understand
@@ScannerDanner I hate butt connectors I am very much a solder appropriate seize gauge and length. Use double wall or single wall with liquid electrical tape person. If the wire is shielded or needs to be shield I use shielded 1, 2, 3, 4 etc core wire. Yes I know it is a real pain doing that small and in depth wire repair. Heck it is hard for me these days because my hands aren't stable like they used to be, but I truly believe that is the right way to do it.
Generally the only time I use butt connectors is for temporarily fix or testing purposes.
To each his own my friend
That's interesting. Now wait till they roll out with wheel sensors with internal batteries like TPMS where you get to replace the hub/bearing whenever the battery is depleted.
Thank me later when GM engineering read this.
That'd be something huh?
Your repair will outlast the part. I really didn't think the heat shrink was going To fit, but it did
I think so too. Thanks!
So off topic but why would an michanic/ technician tell someone that there's still cars from 2006 still using obd1 only when in 95 it switched to obd2? He says there's makes and models that still use only obd1 in 2006 but from what I know this is misinformation?
Not any cars sold in the US that's for sure.
@ScannerDanner that's what I was saying cause it was government law that made them change it all to be universal plugs for all makes and an universal code system in 96 and obd1 was obsolete
I would have rather seen you soldered the wires, then use crimp connectors, but that is just my opinion
If you had an android, then you could of used screen recorder to see Top Don info.
That's what you were looking at. I needed another camera during that time 😉
I would of took it back for warranty just being honest in that way
That would be being dishonest
not great at stripping outer cable jacketing off. "check"☑ . lol, you probably haven't stripped enough small cabling over the years, I have done tons of coax, phone, ethernet and about every other type of wire you can think of, of course I also have special strippers for most of it, but many things you just have to use a knife carefully.
generally I use a slightly worn blade and gently go around the whole diameter not cutting in full depth, then sharp flexing it will snap it off there. I know the abs ones are very rubbery and that doesn't work well, repaired plenty of them and they are a pain, even with magical tools. 🤯
😂 dude the insulation on the inner wires was paper thin! Cut me some slack
Better to replace the entire ABS WS Sensors than repairing wires.
I repaired one last week. It was a couple days out for a new one. Absolutely better to replace, but a good repair will do
This was a brand new install (hub,bearing, sensor). I wasn't going to drop another $300 on my own truck for a couple broken wires. But I wouldn't argue with you on a customers car. Probably would have still done this repair though