Very informative video. Switching the motor and esc was great. Very few videos detailing that on UA-cam for a rookie like me. Also love how you trouble shoot to figure things out through trial and error. Well done.
Thank you kindly. I just updated the description. If you are interested and have some time, I hope you enjoy the other speed runs with the 2.0. The parts are all interchangeable and work on the 3.0.
The 4-tec chassis and bodies are just not designed for high speed runs. No downforce or aero to prevent lift, no belted tires to prevent ballooning, the chassis is 1/10 and suspension is too limited to handle rough bumpy roads without sending it bouncing and flying. Once you go past 40mph all the limits start to show. The Arrma Vendetta and Infraction on the other hand can handle 70+ mph out of the box with ease, both are 1/8th with better suspension. Vendetta was designed with straight line stability, the body was designed with aero in mind, wheel wells are cut out to reduce lift, rear diffuser, two different spoilers, better tires that don't balloon. Oh and it's only $200 for the brushless version.
I do not know what to say other than well described and delineated. If we simply forget about everything else except for cost... The tire availability is a big point to drive home.
Thanks for allthe great information! Based on your recommendations I’ve picked up the Ez Run 4,000kv motor and Max10 ESC. I also got a Corvette chassis and requisite parts on the way. Gonna make it a little bit longer, hopefully that helps with straight line stability. Though I’ve seen the issues you’re having so maybe not. Would you recommend leaving the rear diff completely untouched? Or would you put in some silicone oil, maybe a 1000 weight or something like that? Also just wanted to point out that if you wanted to lock the stock front diff, and you didn’t care that it was permanently locked, you could’ve just cleaned it out and then packed it with JB Weld or something similar. Though I’m assuming you thought of that and you didn’t want to make it irreversibly locked. Recently I’ve been having issues with my Traxxas vehicles just randomly stopping exactly like what happened in this video at 18:39 minutes. Any idea what might be causing that? It’s happened enough now that I’ve learned to just wait for about 5 seconds and then it starts again. I don’t get anywhere near it and in fact I’ve had it happen within a few feet of me. Meanwhile I’ve driven my E Revo and Hoss in particular well out of a controllable range of sight and no issues. But then sometimes where there 20 feet away or closer or further, they just randomly stop as though it’s lost all power. This has been a relatively recent phenomena and has never happened on my Slash ultimate. Very strange. I’m curious if you have any ideas. I was thinking about trying a glitch buster but those won’t exactly fit in the receiver box so bye bye water.
Consider watching this video: ua-cam.com/video/phNn35u3sLI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/we8cwrsGzks/v-deo.html And defiantly consider my video on the upgraded shock bodies: ua-cam.com/video/3ujzTev4-mE/v-deo.html I would leave the rear diff along and just add a spool. The second video is about three different spools to replace the front diff. The issue is the Tx and the ESC. The TQ does not work that great with these new esc systems. So you need to reset the end point once and a while. I stopped having that issue with the Futaba Tx. ua-cam.com/video/smqcXxtinfI/v-deo.html
I was watching this like.... his tires are blown! I know bc i kept crashing/ rolling over just like this and scratched my beautiful baby😳🤣🏎💨 Excellent presentation!
🤣 It is amazing what a bad CA glue job from the factory will do. That is exactly it. I watch it sometimes and think, "how did it not break?" Once I reglued them, it was smooth sailing.
Just got one yesterday.. and the first component to going fast is control and distance. I dumped the reciever after the first loss of signal was at 30ft and threw in the tsm and maan what a difference🏎💨
@@telecomandorc Man less than 24 hours and I done already stripped her naked.. It's like no foreplay over here🤣 Topped Up waiting to test her out🏎💨 Keep up the great content!
A few tips, turn the dual down down after making sure it I going straight, ease into the throttle and find a wider longer road for speed runs. Not sure if you are running foams but those are extremely useful
All the crash were mostly due to tires coming unglued. =P I just get use to gluing my own tires that I forget it is a potential problem with RTR. I found some 70mm foam drag tires, but no foams in 73mm. Not sure if you have any leads.
I like the car. I almost ran the tires bald. The body pops off if you sneeze. That is about it. The only issue I really had at first was the tires becoming unglued. That is all. Once I reglued then the car was good. But I do prefer the 2.0 because of the driving characteristics.
Hahahaha!! I actually lent this car to my nephew so he could race rookie. He used a house transponder so I had to ream the body to mount it. Well, he crashed a few times and the body would come off. At one point at mid race the body flew off again. This time he was told to keep racing without the body and the marshals got the body to the bridge. There a guy past the body under the bridge every time the car past under to count his laps. That was one of the funniest things I had seen in a race.
You can get the 4Tec 2.0 mounts and install them on the 3.0 in order to use body clips. But I am not sure there are bodies other than the stock Corvette body for this car anyway. This car has a 288mm wheelbase. Whereas 1/8 scale TCs usually have 325mm (295-340mm for 1/8 scale usually).
Get some Mighty Gripper (back) and apply a light coat on the rear tires only. Wait for it to dry and do it again. After about 5 coats those tires should grip.
I just got my old v100 out with the max10 . And you video showed me what has to be done. Air flow around the body is the answer. Now I’m making a wing . Thanks again my friend 👍👊
Glad I could help. Side note, get the spool for the front. It is something I have never talked about, but I will release a video showing how to install it soon.
Check the tires. Make sure they are not unglued. I was having trouble keeping it straight, but it turned out the factory glue job is a bad one. Once I re-glued them, it tracked quite straight. I just finished doing testing today with my HW system and it tracks to straight even when I want to turn.
@@LuisAlvarado- The tires are probably becoming unglued. Let me know if that is the case. The first part of the video the stock glue kept coming loose. The last runs towards the end are after I re-glued avery tire. Big difference.
@@telecomandorc I re-glued them and still have the issue. It sways like an improperly loaded trailer in any condition other than accelerating. When I coast and decel it sways out of control and flips.
the stock tires will unglue with this gearing due to ballooning hence body rub and flips the car even with the vxl rated ones on my 2.0 still balloons need belted ones for sure but with the unique offset of the 4tec its pretty hard to find less you run spacers which im not keen on so my 2.0 is now a shelf queen haha
@@telecomandorc more on the fence than ever lol. love the size of the new chassis and the scale body but it’s not looking super capable at speed. I’m not that knowledgeable in on road so was hoping to drop in the brushless and be good to go. hope you get it dialed in. great video
@@RCPMK Thanks. Finding tires the correct size is a challenge. Although, I just took a look at the Supra... those tires are nice, and they are the same diameter.
You are welcome. If one modulates the throttle and does not punch it, TSM should not be necessary. Once I re-glued the tires, it was easy to control. The first part with the crashes were the tires coming unglued. Just cut the glue (separate tire and wheel) and re-glue the entire think making sure the bead is glues in the wheel. I do have TSM in my 2.0 with the TQi. For speed runs, even the TQi has too short of a range. Regardless, I am enjoying this car a lot. I hope more bodies come out for it. Even a truck body would be awesome.
WOW! You cut up the body. Does the car wonder that bad or is it the driving? I have two 2.0, one brushed and one brushless and they both track really good. I just got my 3.0. Seems like alot of these on always on their lids skidding.
I removed the rear clip. It is just two side screws and double sided tape. I did it to let the air flow. In the first part of the video it is the tires coming unglued. The stock tires are not glued in the bead. It is just a surface glue job out of the box. Part of the tire will unglue and the tire will balloon unevenly causing the car to wonder. At the end of the video after I redid the tires, it tracks nice. The 3.0 does not have belted tires. My 2.0 runs great. I never had such problem with factory glue with 4-tec models.
I bought an HR racing 35T 48P 5mm bore pinion... I think it may be part NSG835. I also bought the HR racing motor mount. It is an aluminum motor mount HRATRF18A01. The important thing is to get the 35T with 5mm bore. The stock mount should work as it is made for a 35T max.
Wow!!! that's too- much in this! IT needs to add weight, for not to get LIFTED off the ground, Aluminium is the best option parts for upgrades, It needs to Balance it out for some reason for it. That is one SCARY test run on the Stingray 3.0
@@telecomandorc I'm trying similar stuff with its predecessor (4tec 2.0). Currently I'm able to get it up to 101km/h but I need to add foam tires, gyro for stability. Anyway... With the older 4600kv budget-motor it runs around 100km/h on 3S. Hopefully I can push it over 100 with my new fitted 4000kv 3652... Oh I forgot... Tire Diameter on your 3.0 is bigger than on the older 2.0...means higher ground clearance which could be the reason why it's so unstable without a wing. Aerodynamics are a bad enemy if you're doing speed runs.
@@Chris257X I have achieved 113 km/h with a 2.0. Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/YvpEd7ZOoNY/v-deo.html I am using TC belted tires and a 190mm TC body in the video. Now, I have achieved this before with the Mustang GT body. But I removed the rear clip and added a wing. This is with stock wheels and tires. Just reglue the tires to be safe as they tend to come off the wheel at speed with the factory glue job. I have not added gyros on any of them.
@@telecomandorc My 100km/h run: ua-cam.com/video/kKNxQsr1oNk/v-deo.html Just watch between 7:00 and 11:30. 4600kv Razer Ten, Contact Nitro Foams, Nissan Skyline GT-R Body, DumboRC. Added the rear wing of a Nissan GT-R Super GT Body. Helps a lot in stability. I'm german so if you have any problems in understanding me, just ask.
@@Chris257X Understanding your English is not an issue. Quite flawless. Understanding your German... that is a challenge. I have only been to Germany once and was barely able to speak very limited and elementary German as to order, ask directions, and not get lost. So between your great English and my primitive German we should be able to communicate quite well. It is a joke. But if German bleeds into your English, I should be able to figure it out. So far... it is flawless. The video test looks good. I like the way it tracked. I see you hit a center marker. I have done so as well. I have never used a Razer Team system, but I did notice it is a 36mm diameter by 52mm length system. I use a Hobbywing 3660 series motor which is a 36mm diameter by 60mm length system. The HW 3660 has more torque which may be making the difference in terms of overcoming air resistance at those speeds despite the lower Kv og the HW at only 4000Kv.
Seems like loss of traction from poor material, and tires coming unglued. Better glue for starters. Foams would be best. But looks like at the beginning the tires came unglued causing complete loss of traction.
Absolutely. Here is a video where I show how to reglue them: ua-cam.com/video/KpTCAwTRO-M/v-deo.html And you are right, foams are far better but they generally come in at 70mm diameter vs. the stock 76mm diameter. Cheers.
@@telecomandorc I added the comment before watching the second part of the video also haha. Thought the video was almost over and threw it on. But that is also good to know. I suppose you could gear up to accommodate the diameter though - assuming there is space to do so in the setup. I have an itch for one of these lately. Didn’t realize they had a 3.0 until I got to searching for 2.0 videos. Extra length and bigger tires seem like a great upgrade.
@@carterhanks The comment is great. I actually appreciate it because it helps me refer people to the next video. You did a great job of summarizing exactly what the issue was. Who ever rears it now has the link to the next part. 😎 So thank you 😁
I think, because of the motor, the tires baloon and catch on the body, which made the tires come off the rim. Thats why you kept losing control at first... as soon as 1 tire touches the body, that wheel will spin slower than the rest.... you need to try either run without body and see if the car is stable, or trim the body around the wheel wells
Once I reglued them they did pretty good. That's how I got the good runs at the end. But I am interested in foams. I just gave up on them because I could not find the right size. All I have found is ~70mm but I cannot find the odd 73mm this uses. Any leads? Even if they are a bit larger, I can lathe them down.
They do balloon. But once I re-glued I got some nice runs like the once at the end of the video. It is pretty stable now. I really want some belted tires, but have not found any for that odd size. Any leads?
I wanted to keep it as stock as possible. I do not have the footage, but the stock Rx does not have the range. Once I reglued it was fine. I will have to find wheels and tires that are the same diameter. The 73mm OD is an odd one.
Never found foam tires that are the same diameter. But the Supra tires are amazing, and the same diameter. Traxxas Supra 2.0" 9374 9375 tires on 4-Tec 2.0 review and comparison Best tires for Corvette 3.0 ua-cam.com/video/HY84Tgt6-5Y/v-deo.html
It is definitely meant to be a "stock" car. But I agree from the tuning perspective. For the stock plug and play guy, it is great. For the one who wants to modify it... I agree with you. You should not have to reglue tires on tope of other things... at that point it might as well be a kit.
It speed wobbles and crash no stability at all ppl need to understand this car is basically built for a brush motor brushless is to much i tried foams dont work. So i sold it ppl say this cars are hit or miss some track ok some don't
The vxl will be a total different car setup for speed just like the first one traxxas is smarter then you all think if it was that easy just to swap out the system than there will be no need for a vxl car. They made it cheaper then you think so if you upgrade the system it will not handle correctly and you'll have issues
@@rc4life315 Brilliant points. Just like in the beginning on my video the car would not work. After I reglued the tires, removed the rear clip, and installed a wing... and it worked. Just like you mentioned, it is not so simple as swapping a system. Based on the points you are making, there is a reason Traxxas has a 2.0 brushed and a 2.0 VXL. Even the traxxas Slash brushed and VXL use to have different transmission internal... now they are the same... but even the steering bellcrank is different... Slash VXL being more robust. I cannot agree with you more that there is a design and built purpose for everything. But is can be fun to push limits.
@@telecomandorc I'm going to send part number I think it's not Proline I'm going to take a picture do they have do you have a email address check that out it's on the eBay
@@rellzrc5879 As is the body trim is 2mm above the tires. The spacers are 4mm. Since it is for speed runs (straight line) body rub while turning is not an issue. Why not? I will try it.
Very informative video. Switching the motor and esc was great. Very few videos detailing that on UA-cam for a rookie like me. Also love how you trouble shoot to figure things out through trial and error. Well done.
Thank you kindly. I just updated the description. If you are interested and have some time, I hope you enjoy the other speed runs with the 2.0. The parts are all interchangeable and work on the 3.0.
The 4-tec chassis and bodies are just not designed for high speed runs. No downforce or aero to prevent lift, no belted tires to prevent ballooning, the chassis is 1/10 and suspension is too limited to handle rough bumpy roads without sending it bouncing and flying. Once you go past 40mph all the limits start to show.
The Arrma Vendetta and Infraction on the other hand can handle 70+ mph out of the box with ease, both are 1/8th with better suspension. Vendetta was designed with straight line stability, the body was designed with aero in mind, wheel wells are cut out to reduce lift, rear diffuser, two different spoilers, better tires that don't balloon. Oh and it's only $200 for the brushless version.
I do not know what to say other than well described and delineated. If we simply forget about everything else except for cost... The tire availability is a big point to drive home.
Thanks for allthe great information! Based on your recommendations I’ve picked up the Ez Run 4,000kv motor and Max10 ESC. I also got a Corvette chassis and requisite parts on the way. Gonna make it a little bit longer, hopefully that helps with straight line stability. Though I’ve seen the issues you’re having so maybe not.
Would you recommend leaving the rear diff completely untouched? Or would you put in some silicone oil, maybe a 1000 weight or something like that? Also just wanted to point out that if you wanted to lock the stock front diff, and you didn’t care that it was permanently locked, you could’ve just cleaned it out and then packed it with JB Weld or something similar. Though I’m assuming you thought of that and you didn’t want to make it irreversibly locked.
Recently I’ve been having issues with my Traxxas vehicles just randomly stopping exactly like what happened in this video at 18:39 minutes. Any idea what might be causing that? It’s happened enough now that I’ve learned to just wait for about 5 seconds and then it starts again. I don’t get anywhere near it and in fact I’ve had it happen within a few feet of me. Meanwhile I’ve driven my E Revo and Hoss in particular well out of a controllable range of sight and no issues. But then sometimes where there 20 feet away or closer or further, they just randomly stop as though it’s lost all power. This has been a relatively recent phenomena and has never happened on my Slash ultimate. Very strange. I’m curious if you have any ideas. I was thinking about trying a glitch buster but those won’t exactly fit in the receiver box so bye bye water.
Consider watching this video: ua-cam.com/video/phNn35u3sLI/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/we8cwrsGzks/v-deo.html
And defiantly consider my video on the upgraded shock bodies: ua-cam.com/video/3ujzTev4-mE/v-deo.html
I would leave the rear diff along and just add a spool. The second video is about three different spools to replace the front diff.
The issue is the Tx and the ESC. The TQ does not work that great with these new esc systems. So you need to reset the end point once and a while. I stopped having that issue with the Futaba Tx.
ua-cam.com/video/smqcXxtinfI/v-deo.html
@@telecomandorc Awesome thanks for the input!
@@2down4up My pleasure. Enjoy your RC.
Awesome Job, kudos to the lady filming. Thinking of getting one. now thanks.
Thank you for the complement. And enjoy your 4-Tec when you get it.
Man you made this, switch around look so EZ…. I have done this several times before my self with the 4tec and you did show me a few new tips, thanks.
Thank you for the compliment and you are welcome.
I was watching this like.... his tires are blown! I know bc i kept crashing/ rolling over just like this and scratched my beautiful baby😳🤣🏎💨 Excellent presentation!
🤣 It is amazing what a bad CA glue job from the factory will do. That is exactly it. I watch it sometimes and think, "how did it not break?" Once I reglued them, it was smooth sailing.
Just got one yesterday.. and the first component to going fast is control and distance. I dumped the reciever after the first loss of signal was at 30ft and threw in the tsm and maan what a difference🏎💨
Good point. The TQ is more of a backyard Tx. The range is low.
@@telecomandorc Man less than 24 hours and I done already stripped her naked.. It's like no foreplay over here🤣 Topped Up waiting to test her out🏎💨 Keep up the great content!
@@bigboytoyzrc9258 😂I know what you mean. Thanks.
I liked your video. can you get some grp tires for a Traxxas?
Not that I know of due to the diameter. The Traxxas 3.0 tires are just an in-between diameter. It is not an RC 1/10 scale nor is it a 1/8 scale.
NIIICE! Just brought my son one for his birthday.
Awesome. I already had to order new tires. I have driven the life out of it. I really like it.
A few tips, turn the dual down down after making sure it I going straight, ease into the throttle and find a wider longer road for speed runs. Not sure if you are running foams but those are extremely useful
All the crash were mostly due to tires coming unglued. =P I just get use to gluing my own tires that I forget it is a potential problem with RTR. I found some 70mm foam drag tires, but no foams in 73mm. Not sure if you have any leads.
@@telecomandorc try 45mm foams I hear those fit on the rear don't know the exact dimensions
did you have to use a programming card to drive on 3s or just put the battery in and go?

Pug and play.
@@telecomandorc thanks 😀
@@telecomandorc I hope it's the same in max10 ezrun 60a
@@fonix5885 IT was. I have run the max10 in a few. The only thing I have had to do in some cars is change the CW to CCW rotation.
@@fonix5885 My pleasure.
Its hot racing. And how do you like it. Heard their stuff is, let's say inconsistent.
I like the car. I almost ran the tires bald. The body pops off if you sneeze. That is about it. The only issue I really had at first was the tires becoming unglued. That is all. Once I reglued then the car was good. But I do prefer the 2.0 because of the driving characteristics.
You know it's Traxxas when the body flies off.
Hahahaha!! I actually lent this car to my nephew so he could race rookie. He used a house transponder so I had to ream the body to mount it. Well, he crashed a few times and the body would come off. At one point at mid race the body flew off again. This time he was told to keep racing without the body and the marshals got the body to the bridge. There a guy past the body under the bridge every time the car past under to count his laps. That was one of the funniest things I had seen in a race.
love the intro :)
😁😎 Thank you. I am glad you do.
Think I need one of these asap. If you want to put another body on it how do you mount it
You can get the 4Tec 2.0 mounts and install them on the 3.0 in order to use body clips. But I am not sure there are bodies other than the stock Corvette body for this car anyway. This car has a 288mm wheelbase. Whereas 1/8 scale TCs usually have 325mm (295-340mm for 1/8 scale usually).
I like your style
Thank you 🤝
Man, the tire grip left the chat, spun out everywhere, yeah 10th scale hard to built other than 7,8 scale..
Get some Mighty Gripper (back) and apply a light coat on the rear tires only. Wait for it to dry and do it again. After about 5 coats those tires should grip.
I just got my old v100 out with the max10 . And you video showed me what has to be done. Air flow around the body is the answer. Now I’m making a wing . Thanks again my friend 👍👊
Glad I could help. Side note, get the spool for the front. It is something I have never talked about, but I will release a video showing how to install it soon.
I just put the vxl system in mine. Honestly disappointed. It will not stay straight. I even put a TSM reciever in it and still didn’t help.
Same problem with my 4tec 3.0😡😡
Check the tires. Make sure they are not unglued. I was having trouble keeping it straight, but it turned out the factory glue job is a bad one.
Once I re-glued them, it tracked quite straight.
I just finished doing testing today with my HW system and it tracks to straight even when I want to turn.
@@LuisAlvarado- The tires are probably becoming unglued. Let me know if that is the case. The first part of the video the stock glue kept coming loose. The last runs towards the end are after I re-glued avery tire. Big difference.
@@telecomandorc I re-glued them and still have the issue. It sways like an improperly loaded trailer in any condition other than accelerating. When I coast and decel it sways out of control and flips.
the stock tires will unglue with this gearing due to ballooning hence body rub and flips the car even with the vxl rated ones on my 2.0 still balloons need belted ones for sure but with the unique offset of the 4tec its pretty hard to find less you run spacers which im not keen on so my 2.0 is now a shelf queen haha
Glad I saw this before I bought one
I am glad it was of use.
@@telecomandorc more on the fence than ever lol. love the size of the new chassis and the scale body but it’s not looking super capable at speed. I’m not that knowledgeable in on road so was hoping to drop in the brushless and be good to go. hope you get it dialed in. great video
@@RCPMK Thanks. Finding tires the correct size is a challenge. Although, I just took a look at the Supra... those tires are nice, and they are the same diameter.
Thanks for sharing the process, I definitely want one of these, and want to go brushless as well, TSM might help?
You are welcome. If one modulates the throttle and does not punch it, TSM should not be necessary. Once I re-glued the tires, it was easy to control. The first part with the crashes were the tires coming unglued. Just cut the glue (separate tire and wheel) and re-glue the entire think making sure the bead is glues in the wheel. I do have TSM in my 2.0 with the TQi. For speed runs, even the TQi has too short of a range. Regardless, I am enjoying this car a lot. I hope more bodies come out for it. Even a truck body would be awesome.
@@telecomandorc I experienced the tire gluing issue with my recently purchased Mustang, destroyed the right rear in two bat packs, frustrating.
WOW! You cut up the body. Does the car wonder that bad or is it the driving? I have two 2.0, one brushed and one brushless and they both track really good. I just got my 3.0. Seems like alot of these on always on their lids skidding.
I removed the rear clip. It is just two side screws and double sided tape. I did it to let the air flow. In the first part of the video it is the tires coming unglued. The stock tires are not glued in the bead. It is just a surface glue job out of the box. Part of the tire will unglue and the tire will balloon unevenly causing the car to wonder.
At the end of the video after I redid the tires, it tracks nice.
The 3.0 does not have belted tires. My 2.0 runs great. I never had such problem with factory glue with 4-tec models.
@@telecomandorc Thanks for the advice. I gotta get my out front and see what it does. I know the brushless 2.0 has better tires.
@@RC4X4 I believe they are belted on the VXL. Even the brushed 2.0 has better tires. They are both loads of fun.
How did u get the 35t pinion on 5mm shaft on the new hobbywing motor
I bought an HR racing 35T 48P 5mm bore pinion... I think it may be part NSG835. I also bought the HR racing motor mount. It is an aluminum motor mount HRATRF18A01. The important thing is to get the 35T with 5mm bore. The stock mount should work as it is made for a 35T max.
Hot racing
OK it's your tires you need to change them to foam because they will balloon a lot because they can't handle the speed and power (foam)
I think I shall run this down completely and then look for belted tires. The 73mm OD is the challenge.
Whouaaaaa génial ?
La conversion est durable ?
Merci.
L'adhésif pour pneu est le problème d'usine. Mais ça marche bien après avoir coupé les pneus et appliqué nouvelle adhésif en l'intérieur.
@@telecomandorc merci pour la réponse 🤘
@@zackfair7697 De rien.
Wow!!! that's too- much in this! IT needs to add weight, for not to get LIFTED off the ground, Aluminium is the best option parts for upgrades, It needs to Balance it out for some reason for it. That is one SCARY test run on the Stingray 3.0
The nice thing is that there are many aluminum parts for the 2.0 that will fit this one.
115 without any help of a gyro? Did I miss something?
I do not have gyros. It can do 115km/hr. Just over 71mph. But keep in mind I had to completely reglue the tires, remove the rear clip, and add a wing.
@@telecomandorc I'm trying similar stuff with its predecessor (4tec 2.0). Currently I'm able to get it up to 101km/h but I need to add foam tires, gyro for stability. Anyway... With the older 4600kv budget-motor it runs around 100km/h on 3S. Hopefully I can push it over 100 with my new fitted 4000kv 3652... Oh I forgot... Tire Diameter on your 3.0 is bigger than on the older 2.0...means higher ground clearance which could be the reason why it's so unstable without a wing. Aerodynamics are a bad enemy if you're doing speed runs.
@@Chris257X I have achieved 113 km/h with a 2.0.
Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/YvpEd7ZOoNY/v-deo.html
I am using TC belted tires and a 190mm TC body in the video.
Now, I have achieved this before with the Mustang GT body. But I removed the rear clip and added a wing. This is with stock wheels and tires. Just reglue the tires to be safe as they tend to come off the wheel at speed with the factory glue job.
I have not added gyros on any of them.
@@telecomandorc My 100km/h run: ua-cam.com/video/kKNxQsr1oNk/v-deo.html
Just watch between 7:00 and 11:30.
4600kv Razer Ten, Contact Nitro Foams, Nissan Skyline GT-R Body, DumboRC. Added the rear wing of a Nissan GT-R Super GT Body. Helps a lot in stability.
I'm german so if you have any problems in understanding me, just ask.
@@Chris257X Understanding your English is not an issue. Quite flawless. Understanding your German... that is a challenge. I have only been to Germany once and was barely able to speak very limited and elementary German as to order, ask directions, and not get lost. So between your great English and my primitive German we should be able to communicate quite well. It is a joke. But if German bleeds into your English, I should be able to figure it out. So far... it is flawless.
The video test looks good. I like the way it tracked. I see you hit a center marker. I have done so as well.
I have never used a Razer Team system, but I did notice it is a 36mm diameter by 52mm length system. I use a Hobbywing 3660 series motor which is a 36mm diameter by 60mm length system. The HW 3660 has more torque which may be making the difference in terms of overcoming air resistance at those speeds despite the lower Kv og the HW at only 4000Kv.
Seems like loss of traction from poor material, and tires coming unglued. Better glue for starters. Foams would be best. But looks like at the beginning the tires came unglued causing complete loss of traction.
Absolutely. Here is a video where I show how to reglue them: ua-cam.com/video/KpTCAwTRO-M/v-deo.html
And you are right, foams are far better but they generally come in at 70mm diameter vs. the stock 76mm diameter.
Cheers.
@@telecomandorc I added the comment before watching the second part of the video also haha. Thought the video was almost over and threw it on. But that is also good to know. I suppose you could gear up to accommodate the diameter though - assuming there is space to do so in the setup. I have an itch for one of these lately. Didn’t realize they had a 3.0 until I got to searching for 2.0 videos. Extra length and bigger tires seem like a great upgrade.
@@carterhanks The comment is great. I actually appreciate it because it helps me refer people to the next video. You did a great job of summarizing exactly what the issue was. Who ever rears it now has the link to the next part. 😎
So thank you 😁
@@telecomandorc anytime! Glad to see these types of videos. Answers my questions before I invest in a car like this. Appreciate it!
@@carterhanks Thank you, kindly. I should have a video ready by Saturday on the Traxxas Factory Five in case you are interested in watching it.
I think, because of the motor, the tires baloon and catch on the body, which made the tires come off the rim. Thats why you kept losing control at first... as soon as 1 tire touches the body, that wheel will spin slower than the rest.... you need to try either run without body and see if the car is stable, or trim the body around the wheel wells
This fixed it: ua-cam.com/video/KpTCAwTRO-M/v-deo.html
Mod1 gears or 48 pitch?
48P
One word, Electric screwdriver.
I cannot get myself to buying one. I looked at a Makita 3.6V and a Dewalt 8V. But I still find your "one word" comment amusing.
Your tires are ballooning causing it to no go straight everytime you give it gas. Get some contact foams, hoons or belted tires it will stop all that
Once I reglued them they did pretty good. That's how I got the good runs at the end. But I am interested in foams. I just gave up on them because I could not find the right size. All I have found is ~70mm but I cannot find the odd 73mm this uses. Any leads? Even if they are a bit larger, I can lathe them down.
@@telecomandorc Contact is the brand name, same ones I have on my 4tec
@@mikelowrey9359 Awesome. Thank you.
I asked my mom , err I mean my wife to buy me a new one , she said no……………….
🤣
Your problem is you need foams too much power for rubber they are ballooning
They do balloon. But once I re-glued I got some nice runs like the once at the end of the video. It is pretty stable now. I really want some belted tires, but have not found any for that odd size. Any leads?
Would you want to sale your 2.0
Not my 2.0. But I may consider the 3.0 at some point.
I like my body has pins
😲 Your Corvette 3.0 has pins? That is awesome. This body pops off just by staring at it too long.
Oh stock tires lol Definitely need foams or belted tires
I wanted to keep it as stock as possible. I do not have the footage, but the stock Rx does not have the range. Once I reglued it was fine. I will have to find wheels and tires that are the same diameter. The 73mm OD is an odd one.
@@telecomandorc finding tires is gonna be a problem, don't think Traxxas even has stock ones available to the masses yet.
First I heard someone call it hr racing
Next time I'll call it Hot HR Racing 🤣 I just pulled a VIN "number" bit.
The car is to light for 3s power
I agree. One really needs to play with aerodynamics and downforce. It does seem light for those speeds.
Try foam tires on it
Never found foam tires that are the same diameter. But the Supra tires are amazing, and the same diameter.
Traxxas Supra 2.0" 9374 9375 tires on 4-Tec 2.0 review and comparison Best tires for Corvette 3.0
ua-cam.com/video/HY84Tgt6-5Y/v-deo.html
What a piece of crap. $350 and you have to reglue tires, replace transmitter, ect. It got airborne or spun out constantly. Not impressed
It is definitely meant to be a "stock" car. But I agree from the tuning perspective. For the stock plug and play guy, it is great. For the one who wants to modify it... I agree with you. You should not have to reglue tires on tope of other things... at that point it might as well be a kit.
It speed wobbles and crash no stability at all ppl need to understand this car is basically built for a brush motor brushless is to much i tried foams dont work. So i sold it ppl say this cars are hit or miss some track ok some don't
Good to know foams do not work.
And you are right. The fact is that it is made to be a brushed car 2s power.
The vxl will be a total different car setup for speed just like the first one traxxas is smarter then you all think if it was that easy just to swap out the system than there will be no need for a vxl car. They made it cheaper then you think so if you upgrade the system it will not handle correctly and you'll have issues
@@rc4life315 Brilliant points. Just like in the beginning on my video the car would not work. After I reglued the tires, removed the rear clip, and installed a wing... and it worked. Just like you mentioned, it is not so simple as swapping a system.
Based on the points you are making, there is a reason Traxxas has a 2.0 brushed and a 2.0 VXL.
Even the traxxas Slash brushed and VXL use to have different transmission internal... now they are the same... but even the steering bellcrank is different... Slash VXL being more robust.
I cannot agree with you more that there is a design and built purpose for everything. But is can be fun to push limits.
The tires, are terrible.
I am hoping they start selling the Supra tires to try them out. Then seem better than the Corvette.
😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
Add a gyro
Change the tires put the pro line
ProLine makes great tires. But I am not sure they make something this size. Do you have a part number?
@@telecomandorc I'm going to send part number I think it's not Proline I'm going to take a picture do they have do you have a email address check that out it's on the eBay
@@telecomandorc prm10139-17 ebay
@@telecomandorc protoform vintage pre mounted
@@telecomandorc wight color
Lower the front
I would probably scrap and bounce up if it were lower.
Not really, I seen someone on the tube lower the front I did it to my Lighting, I lower the body and put spacers on the front shocks
@@rellzrc5879 As is the body trim is 2mm above the tires. The spacers are 4mm. Since it is for speed runs (straight line) body rub while turning is not an issue. Why not? I will try it.