Rigol DP832 vs. Korad KA3005P
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- I recently switched from my Rigol DP382 power supply to three Korad KA3005P supplies. In this video I compare both and show you the ups and downs of the respective choices.
Detailed video of my KA3005P mods:
• Korad KA3005P Fan-Cont...
EEVblog talking about the failed KA3005P:
• EEVblog #315 - Korad K...
EEVblog talking about the DP832 power spike:
• EEVblog #509 - Rigol D...
My Rigol DP832 fan mod:
• Silencing a Rigol DP832
Music by www.LukHash.com
Video License: CC BY-SA 3.0 - Наука та технологія
I've had a Korad KA3005 for 5-6 years and besides a relay I had to replace at some point it's been performing well. I believe it's still one of the best value for money linear bench supplies available.
Excellent. Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Much appreciated.
Rigol is modern design, it's Control part is seprate from output part, this means:1) You can power on 3 channels at the same time,so when your board has different power domains(such as 12V and 3.3V) can be powered on at the same,more safe.2) Programable,very useful when you debug your board. I had debug one board with python, capture output from UART, when some output is printed,hold on the state and alarm , if not power down and reboot again.
Turning on multiple outputs all at once is indeed something that multiple Korads cannot do and I completely missed that part. However, I think it's something that could be modded as well! So maybe an idea for a future mod :-)
The Korad 3005P version is also programmable, however. It has RS232 and USB and can be read out and controlled by it. This is why I didn't mention it (it's the same for both supplies).
Regarding the modern design, I'd disagree with you, however. While indeed the design is using more fancy chips and display, I don't really see that as an advantage, but rather the opposite: When something in the Korad breaks, I'm 99% sure that I could fix it, because it's a very standard linear supply. When something breaks with the Rigol, it'll be much more difficult.
In any case, a lot of interesting angles to the issue. Thank you very much for the suggestion with the on/off of multiple channels. That's indeed a great idea!
@@johndoe271828 at the moment I'm using Korad yet one thing I like a lot in Rigol is that you can have all the channels under control in one glimpse of an eye.
In the Korad You need to check over a lot bigger space during working with multiple channels and if you have a lot of stuff on your desk, that means it is harder to operate in such conditions - oscilloscope, wave generator, soldering station, hot air, microscope, screen and any kind of other stuff.
It all takes the space on the desk/shelf and needs to be in a convenient place for use. So in this situation, less used space means more.
But the Rigol 3 outputs have a design flaw see EEVBLOG review. CH2 and CH3 are not truly independant, they blundered putting a common sense which can draws current if your circuit does not short 2 and 3 negative outputs and you also get voltage output inaccuracy . Rigol recognized their error but will not fix it as it is a redesign.
I got my DP832 second hand for $150, updated the software to 832A, so I think I'll stick with this... I also have a couple of HM310s... which I will keep to use in tandem.
Great video thanks for the comparison.
Thx for the video. Your hacks triggered my curiosity, I am looking forward to the videos in which you explain them :)
Hey Nicolas! Thanks for watching the video. Indeed I finished yesterday filming all the modding action, but haven't gotten around to do all the editing. I'll try to finish everything up soon so I can upload it. If you're interested to have a sneak preview at what the schematic looks like, you can see here what I've used to mod it: github.com/johndoe31415/tiny13fanctrl -- all the firmware and schematics are available freely already. It's really pretty simple, but surprisingly effective. I wish they'd included something like this in the power supply off-the-shelf. Again thanks for watching, Cheers, Joe
Hey Nicolas -- finally got around to uploading it: ua-cam.com/video/_cuEG-wj89E/v-deo.html Have fun :-)
5 years later and they didn't remove the startup spike?
Wtf?
That's like a major issue and should be fixed along with first PCB/Software update.
Hagan todas las pruebas que quieran. Yo me compre una Korad 3005 y va de maravillas. Hace justo lo que necesito. Alimenta mis circuitos, limita la corriente, no genera picos de arranque inportantes, etc. Una maravilla. Lo unico que me gustaría cambiar es el panel numerico de amperios a color verde.
I’ll say my experience is a little different from yours. I have three of the 3 channel Korads, one older unit that’s a side by side of the of two single channel units. And 2 of the newer units with a variable temperature controlled fan. Now my older unit did have a fan issue twice in one year, but since I bought this refurbished I discovered the replaced fan was a 12V fan and this unit runs 24V for the fan. So this was the cause for the fans failing after 6 months. The newer triple korads are quiet with the fans even fully ramped up, it’s sort of impressive.
As for the display update rate and accuracy shown on the display I saw the same things you did, the Korad display refresh rate is much faster.
The accuracy of the three channel korads (remember I have three of them) compared to the Rigol I received is much more accurate and that annoyed me a lot. For the price I expected better accuracy and that was a disappointing discovery, but that wasn’t my experience. Some day I will have to calibrate the Rigol but for now if I need accuracy I use the korads.
In fact, after dealing with firmware issues for years with the Rigol 1054Z and this Rigol power supply inaccuracy I’ve stopped buying or even considering buying any more Rigol equipment. My next scope will be a Keysight.
I’ve never owned a single channel Korad, but I do find it interesting in the different results people have seen and that’s part of my problem. So many people experience different things with Rigol stuff it leads me to think the quality control is horrible for the calibration.
Hey there, thanks for your long comment. It really seems as if the 3-output Korads are much better in build quality than the 1-output units -- I really need to check them out in more detail. The flexibility of the 1-output units is also rather nice, though. I'm already planning on adding a single switch to enable all outputs at once, but currently work gets the better part of me.
Rigol does seem to have declined in my opinion, even though they were the first ones to bring digital phosphorous to the hobbyist market. But they're not as competitive price-wise anymore than they were. I've also heared good things about Siglent, may need to check them out for sure. Currently thinking about buying a specanalyzer and believe they have a nice unit.
Keysight, ah, yes, those are indeed nice things. I got to play with a InfiniiVision 4000 IIRC at work. Very nice build quality and precision. However, the pricing is far beyond which what I could reasonably argue with my wife that I "need" :-) Or are they starting to target the hobbist market (i.e., let's say around 1-2kEUR)? Not sure to be honest.
In any case thank you so much for your comprehensive comments and feedback. I really appreciate having people that I can bounce ideas back and forth with. All the best, Johannes
Hi Johannes, I haven’t tried siglent yet. I do try to keep the price down myself as well and for what I review or recommend mostly for my own budgeting since you can go broke in the hobby fast. I think I would only be willing to lay for a Keysight scope, well the newer 1000X serries scope that does bode plotting, has a signal generator and much more for the price..I never had a chance to get a good signal gen and for the price of the 1000X I can justify it since it does a lot more. If I really need 4 channels I still have the Rigol DS1054Z of it doesn’t lock up on me when I’m doing a test. Current,h my main issue with the one I have, but it’s so intermittent I can’t pin down a reason why. I’m sure the rigol PSU will be nice once I get around to calibrating it. Theirs a script for automatic calibration on the EEVBLog if you have a bench meter you trust to interface it with and that’s the plan. As for other Keysight equipment, I don’t think I can justify the cost for my needs, and yes happy wife = happy life.
It’s funny you mention a switch for the two singles to run together, that’s all the older style triple has is a single extra PCB with a relay to switch 2 outputs together as parallels or series controlled from the micro controller front interface panel. I’m sure you can do the same with just adding and flipping one if two switched, one for parallel and one to flip for serial. On second thought you want to make it a single three way switch instead so you don’t accidentally enable both modes at the same time.
Either way for the price Korad makes some good stuff with the older units after they addressed the original issues. Rigol ok also, but as you mentioned their prices are not as competitive.
Little interesting known fact, most of the older Rigol designs were done with/by Keysight. Then Keysight made their custom chip to capture more waveforms and went a different direction.
Thanks for the reply,
Scott
If you hold down the OCP button for a few seconds it disables the beep, no need to mod it.
The Rigol is programmable in many ways, that are all totally ignored in this comparison. There are complex Timer, Delay, and cutout programming modes.. I can easily set it up as a battery charger that cuts-off when the current falls below a threshold, to prevent trickle overcharging.. the Rigol is a proper Tool not just a Dumb Box.
So many fancy features and still sends voltage to your device when powers on… Without basics even fanciest equipment is a pain in the bum.
Korad also has the ka3305P.
Not totally 3ch, but 2 channel (0-30V 0-5A) + 5v 3A.
With a very quiet speed controlled fan, and programmable by usb. I bought one on sale for €144 ex VAT, so way cheaper than the Rigol.(normally its about €190 ex vat, still cheap)
Good video on your preferences. I also have both the DP832 and the "newer" Korad KA3005P. For me they are both useful but a two or three set composed of Korads do not offer series tracking and since I do a lot with opamps that is a major deal breaker for going the route you selected. Again good video and I agree with you on the short comings of the Rigol.
Was ist "series tracing"? Can't find anything on google about it.
@@limebulls Oops sorry, typo error. I did not mean series tracing but series tracking. I have corrected my original post.
Thank you for your time and information. I have been pondering on which supply to purchase. Korad is the winner. Thank you again. Joel
I'm on similar dilemma and wondering how would you proceed if you want 3 voltages at the same time? I mean with the rigol you could just turn it on with the outputs enabled but with three separate supplies you would need to power them on with a power strip, right?
Liked and subscribed! Now I thinking about buy some decent lab PSU and idea of using 2 korads instead of gold priced rigol/siglent looks interesting for me. But I still afraid to be disappointed by Korad build quality maybe it is worth to pay more for some "brand quality tool". Heavy decision. Especialy when I remember that I don't know what I'm going to do with these devices since I have little ideas and knowledge in electronix and programming.
8:02 - Holy Shit!!!! $650 for this?!
How do you finding safety terminals? I cannot find new Korad in with old screw terminals and Im not sure if the safety terminals are any good in use?
Can you make the Korad 10 amps, it would only be for testing, not continuous load.?
Why does measuring with a polymeter always give a lower value?
I found this Korad KA3005P (www.welectron.com/Korad-KA3005P-Benchtop-Power-Supply) and just wondering which one is newer/better. The one with screw-in terminals or safety terminals, from the video, with the flat banana terminals. Thanks.
curious if there is a way to callibrate the korad unit to improve the accuracy. 1% or lower would be more than enough for what it costs.
Nice video. Is it possible to find a fan controller with temp sensor that work with Korad?
I would like to avoid trying to make one as you did.
use Silenx fan, it comes with sensor and very very quiet.
www.ebay.com/itm/Silenx-EFX-12-15T-Effizio-120x25mm-15dBA-74CFM-Thermistor-Computer-Case-Fan/333359365952?hash=item4d9dc43f40:g:XpUAAOSw3fFdom7h
Can the 3 independent Korads be switched in series or in parallel?
Their manuals dont't say anything about that.
I wouldn't Switch From, I would use all of them. I have the DP832 fully optioned up and it can do soo much more then the Korad's. I have other high current supplies if I need say 20 amps at 60 volts.
I have both, always use the Rigol, unless I need the power of the Korad (which is rare).
Thanks for a great review.
I own the KORAD KA3305D , it is more like the Rigol.
You ask if you have forgotten anything and yes, maybe you have.
1) how do they compare in build quality?
2) How clean are the power, both compared?
Hi! The build quality of the Rigol is perfect, no doubt about it. It's super sturdy. The Korad's build quality is behind that of the Rigol's for sure, but it's not the typical cheap junk that you so often see. I'd say it's fairly reasonable. Examples: the rotary encoder of the Korad has a good feel to it (no jumpiness or similar), the grounding seems to be done properly, safety distances have been held as far as I can can tell, the USB/RS232 is galvanically isolated and such.
With cleanliness you mean high frequency noise I'm assuming? I indeed failed to film that and cannot compare it now because I've already given my Rigol away. I'm sorry about that :-/
Thank you very much for watching and the great hints.
I did calibrate my Korad and it shows A and V readings very accurate 0.000V same as my Fluke 115 and 0.001A accuracy
How did you calibrate it?
You Tube : Kalibracja Korad ,it is in Polish but step by step will do the job
Korad is best!!
Wondering if Peaktech 6070 is any better than Korad? 6070 has no moving knob and no fan (a huge outer heatsink instead) and costs 50% more than Korad (RND branded Korad, to be specific). Still, not sure about the internal quality - I haven't yet found any teardowns of Peaktech 6070. So, inside it might be worse than Korad and I might be overpaying for the OEM brand and better packaging.
Thank you for mentioning Peacktech. It's german, so it enters in my competition immediately, specially since the prices are in my target range. Did you get one?
@@manuel56354 I ended up with Korad. At least, it's a "known evil" and there are lots of reviews and known issues with solutions.
Witch lab power supply do you think has the most possibilities the Korad witch has a user manual of 4 pages and the Rigol has a user manual of 64 pages excluded the extra features of a total of 300 pages what do think witch is more advanced?
Why do you get the feeling I ever claimed the Korad would be more advanced? Because I did not intend to convey that message at all. Clearly the design of the Rigol is more sophisticated, but also a lot more boutique parts are used in its construction. Do I think I could repair a broken Korad? Fairly sure. A broken Rigol? Absolutely not. Simplicity can be a virtue and for repairability purposes, it clearly is. To be honest, in my day-to-day business I do not care about a bunch of artificial extravagant features when something as dead simple as a clearly marked CC LED is missing. That's just painfully annoying for my taste. I've tried being objective in my comparison and explain why I prefer one over the other. Neither are bad choices, it's a matter of preference. Comparing two bench supplies by measuring the page count of their respective user manuals seems to be a fairly poor metric in my opinion.
No that didn't I mean what I mean is the Rigol is far more advanced
Buzzer can be disabled...no need to remove.
Furthermore...
Rigol is a wildly and freely programmable bench PSU. It has a lot of added functionality which is not easily reachable with an analogue-type PSU like Korad.
Rigol also has a programmable I/O on the back. It is also possible to turn on and off all three channels at the same time (within milliseconds), though you're not able to make a programmed turn-on procedure.
On the downside: The OVP function has some serious (and dangerous) limitations. If set, even the smallest overvoltage may kill a sensitive product with that huge (sometimes over 10s of milliseconds) overshooting.
What about the voltage correction of 0.2V? Can you confirm that the display jumps to the "set" value when the actual voltage is within \pm0.2V of the target value? Here is a description of this "feature": whiteboard.ping.se/HackValue/KoradPsu
Wow! This is BAD.
I've just tried the exact scenario that Mikael described in his post (5V setpoint, 20 Ohm load, ramping up current from 230...260mA). And I do indeed see exactly the phaenomenon that he also describes. That is indeed *very* crappy and I definitely need to make another video about this. Thank you very much for bringing this to my attention. I'll think about if this is fixable (firmware hack maybe?).
Thanks for the comment!
OK, thanks for checking that. I ordered a KORAD yesterday, maybe we can hack it easily ;)
@@tamasgal_com @johndoe271828 Any update on that issue ? Is it fixed ?
I just tried to do that with my KD3005P and it did not happen. So maybe just avoid putting too much faith in the pushbuttons is all that is needed?
I just got a KA3005D (that's with all the buttons but without USB), tried the same thing and it does *not* have the issue thankfully.
Mmmm! Erst gestern kam hier das neue DP832 an 😳 Jetzt stellt sich mir die Frage, ob ich mit den “Problemchen” leben kann oder doch zurück sende 🤔
Hi Tobias! Hmm, sind auf jeden Fall beides tolle Geräte. Will dir mit dem DP832 den Spaß nicht verderben :-) Für mich ausschlaggebend war wirklich, dass ich, wenn ich unterwegs bin, oft nur einen Kanal brauche und da ist dann halt das Korad praktischer. Aber, muss ich auch zugeben, drei Korad Kanäle zu modden ist auch supernervig. Ich hab bisher zwei fertig gestellt. Das erste war der Prototyp und das zweite für das Video, das ich gestern schlussendlich zuende gefilmt habe (noch nicht geschnitten und so allerdings). Glaube da gibts gar keine falsche Entscheidung. Vielen Dank für's Ansehen von dem Video! :-)
I specifically bought the rigol for 3 channels and also did not realize this, I would have just got the siglent, this ps is way overpriced.
That's a great point you're making -- indeed if I had to re-buy a power supply again I would now go definitely for the Siglent SPD3303X-E. Absolutely love the well-visible CV/CC LEDs right at the jacks, THAT is great design.
@@johndoe271828 hey what's is the best choice rigol 832A(700€), 3x Korad 3005 or this siglent SPD3303X(640€)? I'm buying my first, but i wanna use him for like 10-15 years. You just good PSU for years
You youse a metcal soldering station
regarding fan noise I found this video: ua-cam.com/video/RJbagaIx8no/v-deo.html
Both crappy options, but the Korad at least has no hidden shortcomings that the rigol has see EEVBLOG review.
You're not right those Korad can only give you DC current while the Rigol can give you six different currencies
I'm not sure what you mean by "six different currencies". There's one constant voltage and current limit (i.e., CV and CC modes) that you can enter on the Rigol. Are you talking about the power limit that can be set? Because that is merely some software emulation and, in my opinion, not particularly useful.
@@johndoe271828 No it is truly possible to build you're own current AC, DC, Sawtooth, Block and all also in randomly mode
Yo want to like compare peers to oranges
That'd the standard currency but if you took a look in the manual there can you what different currency you can use there are more than six different currency and the possibility too make your own currency
I mean of course voltages wave forms you keep on talking about that time difference from when one food soon indicates that there is a short circuit and that 10 times as if you have made a world discovery
The Rigol has several hidden design flaws. Like CH2 and 3 and not truly independent, and the type of design flaw pattern they make shows a tendency to cut corners and sweep bad design with dodgy practices. Such as, wasting 5 Watts of power in a regulator pass device to lower voltage from the transformer for the digital section without sourcing a transformer with lower voltage tap. I would not buy equipment from a company with that kind of dodgy philosophy, there will always be another design flaw waiting to manifest itself maybe out of warranty.
why so loud. It's not a contest.
that is a stupid comparison. there is Korad KD3305D 3 way bench power supply. and cost 175 euros
Both Rigol or Korad are "Scheisse". They look nice but very short after using they will start making problems (same with Siglent). Dont spend your moeny on rubbish. Buy American (HP, Tektronix even if they are also made in the east) , Germann, or Japanees products and you will enjoy the money you have with hard work earned.
The problem is that (in case of the korad) you have to spend tenfold(!) (at least) to get a nice Keithley or Rhode&schwarz or something.
Not everyone is in the position to spend that kind of money.
If money is no object, we all know where to get the best of the best.
@@mrpetit2 The keithley multimeters 2000-2700 cost is € (euro)1000-1500 . The Uni-T ut-805 kost 369 = us$437 so it is only 2.2 -3.43 times more. With Uni-T it is pure money thrown away !
@@yoramstein this video is not about multimeters and it's not about Uni-T.
A Keithley 2200 32V/3A or 20V/5A single channel powersupply ( Keithley's least expensive series psu) costs about €1000,-- ex. BTW, which is more than 10x the price of the Korad, and the Korad delivers more power (30V / 5A).
Nobody says the Korad is perfect, but it doesnt have to be for that price (€81 ex BTW at the moment)
If you make your money professionally with electronics, of course, get the keithley ( but I don't think those people watch these video's to get advice).
But If you're a beginner on a budget, setting up your hobby electronics lab, the Korad is a good choice. (Except for the loud fan, but that could be your first project 😉)