►►► Want to fix your lawn for the long haul but don't know where to start? I can help! Click here right now and get started today: turfmech.link/dont-know-where-to-start ◄◄◄
i'm gonna grab the simple aeration and give it some of that after the scotts disease x. prob def good to have on hand. I'm a total noob with the grass, i'm only 4 weeks in or so. Started with just giving the lawn some water with the hose in the morning to connect with it to put my brain in beta waves instead of sit down eyes closed meditation. So fast forward 4 weeks here we are. i must have watched 12-20 of your videos in the last week. I'm rapidly ascending! Learning so much about lawn care, and love it so much. can't stop. Out in yard 2-4 hours a day on average now. It's about to rain right now and i'm so excited! threw some milorganite down today. Just to try to feed yard get it ready for Fall.
huh I didn't realize fungi could be a problem at lower temps... assuming your overnight temps in OR get fairly low in September. I looked up Rust fungus and you're spot on (fungus pun), it can thrive in the 50s and even 40s. Great stuff as usual Brian
I am dealing with rust fungus in my backyard along the fence line. I used a hose end fungicide. If it doesn’t work, I am considering torching it out. Will touching it totally eliminate it? I don’t want to mow it because I just renovated my front lawn over Labor Day weekend and I don’t want to get spores on my mower and then contaminate my front lawn.
Can you just apply something like Andersons 46-0--0 granuals a few times instead? And or I got some Arena 33-0-7 but wasnt sure if that was fast release. This last time mowed the front treeless sunny yard, mower, bag, and me were covered in orange. 4 days ago wasnt there. Weird
I'm not sure what 46-0-0 anderson's product you are talking about. I don't see it on their website but it resembles a pure urea analysis. Anderson's does have a 32-0-0 product called Pure Nitrogen (bit.ly/3WxuzAP), that's also pure Urea but some of it is polymer/sulfur coated which brings the analysis down. The uncoated stuff will be super fast acting, not as fast as ammonium sulfate or sodium nitrate but close enough, and then the coated urea will be a bit slower acting. I'd say it would work just fine. Basically, rust fungus needs nitrogen to "grow the fungus out" so if it starts growing fast and you bag your clippings and remove the orange you described from the lawn then it will clear up fairly quick. It may be more likely to come back next year or in a different season but it's usually easy to rectify even without applying fungicides.
Water and humidity are the problem in Georgia. I have rust fungus on my Bermuda grass and can't get rid of it because of rain. IDK. When God gives us too much we complain. When He gives us too little we complain. I just want to treat for this fungus, before it gets out of control. Great video. Thanks.
Been dealing with is for a while, time to tackle it. Thanks for the post. I fertilized 3 weeks ago. If I dose it with the nitrogen again would I risk burning it?
Probably not even if you used a urea or synthetic...just make sure to water those faster release products in good as burning is more likely if the soil is dry that's why it happens more frequently to lawns that are fertilized in the summer. Try to give even coverage and if need be apply a small application now and another small app in 7-14 days to further minimize any burning risk. I can't stress enough the need to add more than just Nitrogen to the lawn though and to make sure any irrigation you put on the lawn is at dawn and applied deeply and infrequently. If you can fix this problem before July then you'll have a much better summer and fall. I have a video coming out in 36 hours on fertilizing going into summer; I hope you'll watch it because if you have some fungus now then the info in that vid should be helpful.
Humidity makes a big difference as does evening nighttime dew. If your lawn is deficient in some nutrients it can also be prone to disease. Its not just about watering frequently or at the wrong part of the day.
►►► Want to fix your lawn for the long haul but don't know where to start? I can help! Click here right now and get started today: turfmech.link/dont-know-where-to-start ◄◄◄
i'm gonna grab the simple aeration and give it some of that after the scotts disease x. prob def good to have on hand.
I'm a total noob with the grass, i'm only 4 weeks in or so. Started with just giving the lawn some water with the hose in the morning to connect with it to put my brain in beta waves instead of sit down eyes closed meditation. So fast forward 4 weeks here we are. i must have watched 12-20 of your videos in the last week. I'm rapidly ascending! Learning so much about lawn care, and love it so much. can't stop. Out in yard 2-4 hours a day on average now.
It's about to rain right now and i'm so excited! threw some milorganite down today. Just to try to feed yard get it ready for Fall.
I have watched plenty of videos here. But you have the most sensible explanation in regards to Nutrients and lawn’s health.
Thank you
thanks so much for saying that! And thanks for the watch too! Glad you found it worthwhile
Very informative and what I was looking for! Thanks
huh I didn't realize fungi could be a problem at lower temps... assuming your overnight temps in OR get fairly low in September. I looked up Rust fungus and you're spot on (fungus pun), it can thrive in the 50s and even 40s. Great stuff as usual Brian
I am dealing with rust fungus in my backyard along the fence line. I used a hose end fungicide. If it doesn’t work, I am considering torching it out. Will touching it totally eliminate it? I don’t want to mow it because I just renovated my front lawn over Labor Day weekend and I don’t want to get spores on my mower and then contaminate my front lawn.
It will go away
We don’t have access to fungicide in Canada. Any other options to treating disease?
Yeah, move out of Canada. Liberal left wing nightmare
Can you just apply something like Andersons 46-0--0 granuals a few times instead? And or I got some Arena 33-0-7 but wasnt sure if that was fast release. This last time mowed the front treeless sunny yard, mower, bag, and me were covered in orange. 4 days ago wasnt there. Weird
I'm not sure what 46-0-0 anderson's product you are talking about. I don't see it on their website but it resembles a pure urea analysis. Anderson's does have a 32-0-0 product called Pure Nitrogen (bit.ly/3WxuzAP), that's also pure Urea but some of it is polymer/sulfur coated which brings the analysis down. The uncoated stuff will be super fast acting, not as fast as ammonium sulfate or sodium nitrate but close enough, and then the coated urea will be a bit slower acting. I'd say it would work just fine. Basically, rust fungus needs nitrogen to "grow the fungus out" so if it starts growing fast and you bag your clippings and remove the orange you described from the lawn then it will clear up fairly quick. It may be more likely to come back next year or in a different season but it's usually easy to rectify even without applying fungicides.
@@TurfMechanic ikr, me neither, but I bought this one off a schools stash.
Water and humidity are the problem in Georgia. I have rust fungus on my Bermuda grass and can't get rid of it because of rain. IDK. When God gives us too much we complain. When He gives us too little we complain. I just want to treat for this fungus, before it gets out of control. Great video. Thanks.
What about if I’m in the process of watering for my new tttf seed and they have just germinated
Thank u for all your videos!! Great info
And thank you for watching my stuff Vader, always trying to improve and present better.
Should I use fertilizer or fungus control? Or both? I'm at lowes now lol
If it's bad do both
Been dealing with is for a while, time to tackle it. Thanks for the post. I fertilized 3 weeks ago. If I dose it with the nitrogen again would I risk burning it?
Probably not even if you used a urea or synthetic...just make sure to water those faster release products in good as burning is more likely if the soil is dry that's why it happens more frequently to lawns that are fertilized in the summer. Try to give even coverage and if need be apply a small application now and another small app in 7-14 days to further minimize any burning risk. I can't stress enough the need to add more than just Nitrogen to the lawn though and to make sure any irrigation you put on the lawn is at dawn and applied deeply and infrequently. If you can fix this problem before July then you'll have a much better summer and fall. I have a video coming out in 36 hours on fertilizing going into summer; I hope you'll watch it because if you have some fungus now then the info in that vid should be helpful.
SOLUTION 7:18
Scotts Disease Ex wait 2 days, water Mow (bag on mower)
Don't water for a week!? My grass won't go yellow?
I have rust fungus and never water at night.
I also used azoxy at 2lbs/1k but the rust still attacked.
Humidity makes a big difference as does evening nighttime dew. If your lawn is deficient in some nutrients it can also be prone to disease. Its not just about watering frequently or at the wrong part of the day.
Got three words for you, "The disease triangle".
You kinda look like Tom Hardy
I'm him in real life, this is my disguise 😁