What’s the difference between diy and pro? What benefit is their of getting a more expensive saw? The new version of this saw allows dual bevel. I need a saw for professional use, is their any reason I shouldn’t buy this one and save for a desalt or Milwaukee?
@@chezcotton in honesty I personally think there’s little difference. But that’s a contentious view, I’m not a professional and haven’t been for a long time but here’s my thoughts: Milwaukee particularly have a strong “fan base” but the cynic in me says that it’s only due to them having a very determined marketing policy and giving a lot of stuff away. If you look across social media there are a huge number of “professionals”running Milwaukee who have either had it given to them or got it at a favourable price. DeWalt often put on huge discounts for a part of their range to get people to buy into the brand identity (particularly on cordless) and once you’re in it becomes difficult to change. For me, if I was going back into a construction trade now, I’d stick with exactly what I run which is a mix of all sorts. I’m on the Ryobi cordless platform because it’s affordable and it works. Everything I have with a cable was bought on the basis of being affordable. I have one Festool tool (a Domino) because when I bought it nobody else made anything like it. I don’t ever buy “for the label” because to quote Macklemore in Thrift Shop, “that’s gettin tricked by business”. I’d then be looking at the tool choices everyone I work with makes and how well they last which would then form my basis for any replacement purchases. However, if you’re going to work sites or contracts you’ll probably get stick from the brand fans who will always find a reason why their choice is soooooo much better than yours….. Sorry, ended up as a ridiculously long response
Hi, recommendations are always a subjective thing but.... Is mine still working well? Yes. I bought it in June 2020 and it's fine. The clamp was rubbish on day one, I don't use the laser, I've changed the blade out a few times. I don't use it daily but it's done all the heavy cutting on the landscaping projects in my garden and more besides. I bought it from FFX for £390.44 and if it broke today I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again.
Can you help me? I have one of these saws. I’m at a loss to understand the +/-2 degree button located next to the lever that locks and unlocks the inclination function. Can you help?
Hi Richard, yes, the facility is there on most mitre saws on both the vertical and the horizontal adjustment to cater for those times when, as a for instance, you may be cutting two bits of skirting / baseboard for a wall corner that’s say 86 degrees instead of 90 and therefore you need a little more capacity. So 47 instead of 45 in that instance bearing in mind the whole 90 - 43 drama to get the correct saw setting. If you like it’s the saw manufacturers recognising that builders are often not quite as accurate as we might hope 😉
Hi, there is some adjustment on it but I couldn’t get enough to make it useful. I’ll get some photos and post an explanation on my blog (I’ll put a link here when it’s up)
@@oldmanwith Hello, I got the saw and I adjusted all the angles (90 ° tilt, 90° bevel and 45 ° bevel). The bevel can be adjusted with the allen screws at the back of the saw. The left one is for 90° and the right for 45°. After double check these basics I've to fix one thing with the laser. If the saw is up the laserlight is perfect aligned with the saw. This means it shows exactly were the blade will touch the wood, this is fine. But if i tilt the blade down to the wood the laser is moving to the left about 2 or 3 mm away from the cutline, this depends of the thickness of the wood. I've not really an idea how to adjust that.....
Hi yeah in fairness I don’t think I mentioned it. It’s a Freud 305mm 96T that I got from Screwfix but they don’t appear to stock it any more. I used the original Metabo blade for all the decking and the raised bed projects and after that it was struggling a bit. I then needed something to get clean cuts in some furniture board and skirting. I’ve also got a Dewalt “demolition” nail cutting blade that I keep for heavy work.
@@oldmanwith hi there, I ordered my kgs 305 and just took a punt at ordering the freud blade, I went for the same one, checked the calibration with my trend digital level box and my angle finder, was within 0.1 out the box, well happy
Hi, yes perfectly happy with it. To restate a couple of things from the video: I don't use the laser line - I did align it better but I just don't use it. The workpiece clamp on mine is not great so I don't often use that. I'm only a DIYer so it probably gets used 2 or 3 times a month on average.
Apart from the obvious (size) which is the better saw, the metabo or dewalt ? I’m looking to replace an erbaur 216mm, looking at the dewalt, metabo 255 o hikoki 216, probably upto £250/300. Any thoughts, not easy being mostly on line research. Not sure why but I’ve written of the evolution saws, thanks
Hi Greg, bit of long winded answer but here goes: Regarding the Evolution I did exactly the same, I couldn’t make up my mind. I got the Dewalt because I was doing a lot of skirting and architrave. It’s great for that. I don’t like the fact that it tilts from the back of the slide so you can’t use a depth stop. However, the slides do point forward so it’s very compact (I missed this in the videos). I got the Metabo specifically for the size because I wanted to cut 200 x 100 timber. The Metabo is a nodding head so you can use a depth stop (for channels, tenons) but the work clamp on it is worse than useless. Also the slides go out rearward so you need plenty free space behind it which I don’t have. So, overall the DeWalt gets the most use, it’s more compact and lighter to lug about. Both of them cut equally well with a sharp blade. I run a fine tooth Freud in the Metabo and it gives a nice cut on furniture panel. BUT!!!! If I was in the market for a 216mm right now I’d take a punt on the Hikoki. It’s forward slide AND nodding head from what I can see, the clamp looks like 1st year metalwork but at least it looks like it won’t fall off, it comes with a laser which my DeWalt doesn’t (and the Metabo one is s***e) and FFX have the 240v for £189. I’ll say I’ve never used or touched one but I see some of the pro guys seem to use Hikoki. Robin Clevett had a Hikoki mitre saw in one of his vids, might have been the one on cladding. All that said, for the prices I paid for both the DeWalt and the Metabo compared to their competitors, I’m happy with both of them despite their shortcomings. Just noticed there’s one bad but detailed review of the Hikoki on the FFX site. Hope all that helps, all the best.
@@oldmanwith thanks for the detailed reply, appreciated. The hikoki was the one until you mentioned the ffx review 🤨 Noticed the dewalt dws774 has the XPS has the led light, maybe worth a look. Mainly just diy jobs, odd bit of skirting, architrave & beading which I find at times awkward, especially internal right side mitre cuts, I have to look down the right side of the blade where the motor sticks out, almost an accident, any easier ways for that, 15x15 quadrant, cheers again
Hi, I’ve just watched a UA-cam review of the Hikoki and personally I still think I’d give it a go. Feature wise I think it’s better for my purposes than the Dewalt and it could be the guy on FFX just got a dud. As regards your question on cutting on the blind side of the blade, see if this helps: ua-cam.com/video/a-gfkEEzZEM/v-deo.html Basically, cut a scrap piece first, then use it to line up your cut line. And clamp your workpiece. Hope that helps
Hi Liam, the one at the back on the left clamps onto the left slide rail to stop the saw head sliding back and forth when you store it away or move it. It’s the thing I usually remember after I lift the saw onto its storage rack and it slides forward and smashes me in the face….
Hi Paul, thats a definite no on this saw. The maximum height is 100mm or 4 inches (its actually 105mm but that doesn’t help you) It will take the 6 inch section front to back but not upright. Unless I’ve missed something, the options once you get above 4 inch on the height are seriously reduced. Maffell do a couple of beam saws, one is a circular and the other is like a refined electric chainsaw but they’re super expensive. When I built the raised planting beds I looked at 6 x 10 (125 x 250) beams and I’m glad I decided against them. The only other options I saw were use an actual chainsaw (accuracy becomes more of a challenge) or cut ‘em by hand…..
Paul, my sincere apologies I was wrong on this. I was using it yesterday and it WILL take 6x6. It won’t cut all the way through but you could cut from 2 sides. I’m pretty sure you could get an angle cut from it as well. It definitely WON’T do a bevel or compound angle cut because once the saw is tilted over for the bevel cut there’s not enough height under the blade. I’m trying to get a blog post and video together to explain it better.
Hi, looking at the Metabo site, the KGS which I have has the sliding action and the KS doesn’t. The KGS has a max cut width of 305mm the KS only has 200mm. Link to KS: www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/sawing/mitre-saws/ks-305-m-619003000-mitre-saw.html. Link to KGS: www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/sawing/mitre-saws/kgs-305-m-619305000-mitre-saw.html
What’s the difference between diy and pro? What benefit is their of getting a more expensive saw? The new version of this saw allows dual bevel. I need a saw for professional use, is their any reason I shouldn’t buy this one and save for a desalt or Milwaukee?
@@chezcotton in honesty I personally think there’s little difference. But that’s a contentious view, I’m not a professional and haven’t been for a long time but here’s my thoughts: Milwaukee particularly have a strong “fan base” but the cynic in me says that it’s only due to them having a very determined marketing policy and giving a lot of stuff away. If you look across social media there are a huge number of “professionals”running Milwaukee who have either had it given to them or got it at a favourable price. DeWalt often put on huge discounts for a part of their range to get people to buy into the brand identity (particularly on cordless) and once you’re in it becomes difficult to change.
For me, if I was going back into a construction trade now, I’d stick with exactly what I run which is a mix of all sorts. I’m on the Ryobi cordless platform because it’s affordable and it works. Everything I have with a cable was bought on the basis of being affordable. I have one Festool tool (a Domino) because when I bought it nobody else made anything like it. I don’t ever buy “for the label” because to quote Macklemore in Thrift Shop, “that’s gettin tricked by business”. I’d then be looking at the tool choices everyone I work with makes and how well they last which would then form my basis for any replacement purchases.
However, if you’re going to work sites or contracts you’ll probably get stick from the brand fans who will always find a reason why their choice is soooooo much better than yours…..
Sorry, ended up as a ridiculously long response
Thanks didn't now that you can use front Hol for clamping.
Glad it helped Erik
I’m considering purchasing this mitre saw, is it still working and would you recommend it at £329?
Hi, recommendations are always a subjective thing but.... Is mine still working well? Yes. I bought it in June 2020 and it's fine. The clamp was rubbish on day one, I don't use the laser, I've changed the blade out a few times. I don't use it daily but it's done all the heavy cutting on the landscaping projects in my garden and more besides. I bought it from FFX for £390.44 and if it broke today I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again.
@@oldmanwith Thanks for your input, I will most likely purchase it 👍
If I get chance over the next day or so I’ll do a video version of my response to try and give a bit more detail.
@@oldmanwith Ok, thank you very much 👍
apologies, it took waaay longer than I intended ua-cam.com/video/IfamwCNPDlU/v-deo.html
Nice job sir!
Thank you Jakke
@@oldmanwithoipv pub
Great video !
Thanks Chris, appreciate the compliment
Can you help me? I have one of these saws. I’m at a loss to understand the +/-2 degree button located next to the lever that locks and unlocks the inclination function. Can you help?
Hi Richard, yes, the facility is there on most mitre saws on both the vertical and the horizontal adjustment to cater for those times when, as a for instance, you may be cutting two bits of skirting / baseboard for a wall corner that’s say 86 degrees instead of 90 and therefore you need a little more capacity. So 47 instead of 45 in that instance bearing in mind the whole 90 - 43 drama to get the correct saw setting. If you like it’s the saw manufacturers recognising that builders are often not quite as accurate as we might hope 😉
@@oldmanwith brilliant, thank you. Just need to have a play to see how it operates.
Nice Video!
is not possible to adjust the Laser?
Hi, there is some adjustment on it but I couldn’t get enough to make it useful. I’ll get some photos and post an explanation on my blog (I’ll put a link here when it’s up)
@@oldmanwith thanks, I ordered the saw and give you feedback, with the laser on my saw.
Great stuff! Yes let us know how you get on with it 👍
@@oldmanwith Hello, I got the saw and I adjusted all the angles (90 ° tilt, 90° bevel and 45 ° bevel). The bevel can be adjusted with the allen screws at the back of the saw. The left one is for 90° and the right for 45°.
After double check these basics I've to fix one thing with the laser. If the saw is up the laserlight is perfect aligned with the saw. This means it shows exactly were the blade will touch the wood, this is fine. But if i tilt the blade down to the wood the laser is moving to the left about 2 or 3 mm away from the cutline, this depends of the thickness of the wood.
I've not really an idea how to adjust that.....
@@bkluex5818 That’s fascinating. I’ve been too busy to get back out to the workshop for a couple of days but I’ll go take a look on Saturday
Hi m8, sorry if I missed this, what toothed blade are you using,
Hi yeah in fairness I don’t think I mentioned it. It’s a Freud 305mm 96T that I got from Screwfix but they don’t appear to stock it any more. I used the original Metabo blade for all the decking and the raised bed projects and after that it was struggling a bit. I then needed something to get clean cuts in some furniture board and skirting. I’ve also got a Dewalt “demolition” nail cutting blade that I keep for heavy work.
@@oldmanwith hi there, I ordered my kgs 305 and just took a punt at ordering the freud blade, I went for the same one, checked the calibration with my trend digital level box and my angle finder, was within 0.1 out the box, well happy
Nice! Hope it works out well for you.
How is the saw going now? Are you still happy with it?
Hi, yes perfectly happy with it. To restate a couple of things from the video: I don't use the laser line - I did align it better but I just don't use it. The workpiece clamp on mine is not great so I don't often use that.
I'm only a DIYer so it probably gets used 2 or 3 times a month on average.
@@oldmanwith thank you, just orderd mine
Apart from the obvious (size) which is the better saw, the metabo or dewalt ? I’m looking to replace an erbaur 216mm, looking at the dewalt, metabo 255 o hikoki 216, probably upto £250/300. Any thoughts, not easy being mostly on line research. Not sure why but I’ve written of the evolution saws, thanks
Hi Greg, bit of long winded answer but here goes: Regarding the Evolution I did exactly the same, I couldn’t make up my mind. I got the Dewalt because I was doing a lot of skirting and architrave. It’s great for that. I don’t like the fact that it tilts from the back of the slide so you can’t use a depth stop. However, the slides do point forward so it’s very compact (I missed this in the videos). I got the Metabo specifically for the size because I wanted to cut 200 x 100 timber. The Metabo is a nodding head so you can use a depth stop (for channels, tenons) but the work clamp on it is worse than useless. Also the slides go out rearward so you need plenty free space behind it which I don’t have. So, overall the DeWalt gets the most use, it’s more compact and lighter to lug about. Both of them cut equally well with a sharp blade. I run a fine tooth Freud in the Metabo and it gives a nice cut on furniture panel. BUT!!!! If I was in the market for a 216mm right now I’d take a punt on the Hikoki. It’s forward slide AND nodding head from what I can see, the clamp looks like 1st year metalwork but at least it looks like it won’t fall off, it comes with a laser which my DeWalt doesn’t (and the Metabo one is s***e) and FFX have the 240v for £189. I’ll say I’ve never used or touched one but I see some of the pro guys seem to use Hikoki. Robin Clevett had a Hikoki mitre saw in one of his vids, might have been the one on cladding. All that said, for the prices I paid for both the DeWalt and the Metabo compared to their competitors, I’m happy with both of them despite their shortcomings. Just noticed there’s one bad but detailed review of the Hikoki on the FFX site. Hope all that helps, all the best.
@@oldmanwith thanks for the detailed reply, appreciated. The hikoki was the one until you mentioned the ffx review 🤨 Noticed the dewalt dws774 has the XPS has the led light, maybe worth a look. Mainly just diy jobs, odd bit of skirting, architrave & beading which I find at times awkward, especially internal right side mitre cuts, I have to look down the right side of the blade where the motor sticks out, almost an accident, any easier ways for that, 15x15 quadrant, cheers again
Hi, I’ve just watched a UA-cam review of the Hikoki and personally I still think I’d give it a go. Feature wise I think it’s better for my purposes than the Dewalt and it could be the guy on FFX just got a dud. As regards your question on cutting on the blind side of the blade, see if this helps: ua-cam.com/video/a-gfkEEzZEM/v-deo.html Basically, cut a scrap piece first, then use it to line up your cut line. And clamp your workpiece. Hope that helps
@@oldmanwith appreciated, thanks, keep the videos coming 😎
What is the red knob at the back for not the bevel lever
Hi Liam, the one at the back on the left clamps onto the left slide rail to stop the saw head sliding back and forth when you store it away or move it.
It’s the thing I usually remember after I lift the saw onto its storage rack and it slides forward and smashes me in the face….
Would I be able to get a 6x6 inch timber and and cut please
Hi Paul, thats a definite no on this saw. The maximum height is 100mm or 4 inches (its actually 105mm but that doesn’t help you) It will take the 6 inch section front to back but not upright. Unless I’ve missed something, the options once you get above 4 inch on the height are seriously reduced. Maffell do a couple of beam saws, one is a circular and the other is like a refined electric chainsaw but they’re super expensive. When I built the raised planting beds I looked at 6 x 10 (125 x 250) beams and I’m glad I decided against them. The only other options I saw were use an actual chainsaw (accuracy becomes more of a challenge) or cut ‘em by hand…..
Paul, my sincere apologies I was wrong on this. I was using it yesterday and it WILL take 6x6. It won’t cut all the way through but you could cut from 2 sides. I’m pretty sure you could get an angle cut from it as well. It definitely WON’T do a bevel or compound angle cut because once the saw is tilted over for the bevel cut there’s not enough height under the blade. I’m trying to get a blog post and video together to explain it better.
Whats the difference between this and the ks305?
Hi, looking at the Metabo site, the KGS which I have has the sliding action and the KS doesn’t. The KGS has a max cut width of 305mm the KS only has 200mm. Link to KS: www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/sawing/mitre-saws/ks-305-m-619003000-mitre-saw.html. Link to KGS: www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/sawing/mitre-saws/kgs-305-m-619305000-mitre-saw.html