My 91 yo father built and flew free flight model airplanes with ignition model airplane engines in late 1940s. He just watched your video and told me a story about his friend, Ernest Scott. Ernest worked hard at shoe shining and golf caddying and made enough money to buy an Ohlsson & Rice model airplane engine. After completing the airplane, Ernest and Dad went to a cotton field outside of Corpus Christi, TX. For the first "test" flight, Ernest had not put a timer and shut off switch on the plane. When Ernest let the plane go, it caught a thermal and flew away. Since Ernest was an excellent, 16 year old athlete, he ran off and followed the plane through the cotton fields. One hour later, Ernest came back with the plane and a big grin on his face. Ernest said that after running out of fuel and breaking free of the thermal, the plane came down in a gentle glide. He was determined not to lose that valuable O&R engine! He subsequently installed a timer and switch for many, later flights. This story was one of many circumstances where Ernest impressed Dad. Ernest was an excellent athlete, determined person and scholar who eventually became a Physician in the Baltimore, Maryland area. Long story short, you are correct that an O&R model airplane engine with a tank of fuel could fly away!!
Thanks a lot! That's one of the best comments I ever had on my videos! I had a similar flyaway when I started with engines in 1950/51, except that it was a small diesel powered plane, in England, and I never did find it!!!
A 78 year old engine! Cleaned & run up! Awesome! "The old mount is a bit wobbly...I know how it feels..." HAAAAAA, YOU sir, are a proper old gentleman! Great video, Thank You!
Thanks for your kind comments. I have two of these engines, and they both run superbly. I have quite a lot of similar old engines. I really must find time to run a few.
Hi J-M, Thank you for your comment. This was the first commercial Ohlsson (Ohlsson Miniature - 1937). It was followed by the Gold Seal (step fin) in 1938 and the Gold Seal taper fin model in 1939. These were Irwin Ohlsson's engines. Then the Ohlsson Custom (1940/41) started the era of the O&R engines. I'll show them all on video when I get the time!
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I have reviewed my American nodel engine encyclopedia and this is how you say.
Thanks for your interest Ed. There will be other, similar videos. I have so many super old engines that I want to run. Like many other people my real problem is time...
I would imagine using it for free flight you would set rudder so you had a good pattern and then set up a timer that would cut ignition to limit flight times. Be nice if a model company would come out with a modern recreation since it would be a shame to risk an original in a free flight model.
It is so nice to see you running up your old engines. That is a past time in itself. I have two nice ED Racers I want to put into a Junior 60. One at a time!..the other will go in something else. I have a lathe to make an adaptor tube but was wondering whether I could fit a carby to it? What do you think? Peter
Thanks again for your kind remarks. This is only my opinion, but if I wanted to use a Racer in a J60, I would leave the engine "as is" and just fly "climb and glide". You can see exactly this in my Junior 60 video. For gentle flying around with a throttle, I would use a PAW 19 TBR. Flying "climb and glide" (see video), I try for a 3 min engine run in the air, which means you need a tank giving around 4 mins, to allow for a minute or so of messing around before you actually launch or take off. Trimming for a good glide after the engine stops will usually give a flight of around 10 mins.
Why do you use so high oil content in the fuel? You mention not less than 25% and about 1/3 oil. On normal 2 stroke engines bush trimmers etc the oil content is 2-5%
Multiple reasons for those small engines: 1) The conrod bearings are usually plain bearings, which need a lot of oil to last long. (Needle) roller bearings, which are used in larger two-stroke engines, are not feasible in this small dimensions. 2) The simple square-cube law. When you make an engine smaller, the displacement and therefore the fuel throughput decreases with the cube of the linear dimensions, the areas to be lubricated only by the square. So you need relatively more oil to keep everything well lubricated. 3) The oil does a lot of cooling by just being heated in contact with hot engine parts and then being thrown out of the exhaust.
@@VintageTechFan Interesting. I plan to run some bigger glow engines on gasoline, also 4-stroke engines, and i read most places thatt 4-5% should do the trick. Of course they dont have plain bearings like this one, but ball bearings on the crankshaft, but it still has plain bearings on the connecting rod. Do you have some recomendations for 4 stroke oil mix? Thanks
I'm not a technical expert, but I think there are several reasons, mostly related to the area of metal generating friction (plain piston contact area vs just a couple of rings, plain crankshaft bearing (bushing) vs twin ball-race). One thing is sure, the oil need is real and not just hearsay or "tradition". If you try to run big old plain bearing glow or spark ignition engines on standard glow fuel (20% oil), they slow down and stop. I've done it! They really do need around 30% oil.
+Luke Shaw Hi Luke, Thanks for your comment. Like it says in the video, I'm using Castrol M, which is castor treated to be usable with ordinary gas. Unfortunately Castrol M is no longer made. BUT, I have used, and do use, other oils, particularly modern racing 2-stroke synthetic, sold in most hypermarkets for 2-stroke motocross bikes, etc. The actual oil isn't critical. Over the years, I've used many good quality car engine oils, and they all give good results! There's still some old folklore on the subject, particularly in the US, but the oil really is "no problem". You just have to use "good quality" and "enough" (not less than 25%). Regards, Brian
+Claude Dhekaier Salut Claude, Tous les premiers Ohlsson, c'est à dire les "Miniature", puis les "Gold Seal" (tout ce qui est pré-1940) sont des .56 (environ 9,5 cc).
You don't understand and you have never used an rpm counter. The counter takes into account the number of propeller blades. You can select 2 or 3 blades usually.
I found one of these at a outdoor market and its so cool to see people giving these old engines another chance
What a cool find at a estate sale. Glad you found it and gave it another chance to run. Good work.
Thank you!
I enjoyed that !
Thank you.
So did I !
My 91 yo father built and flew free flight model airplanes with ignition model airplane engines in late 1940s. He just watched your video and told me a story about his friend, Ernest Scott.
Ernest worked hard at shoe shining and golf caddying and made enough money to buy an Ohlsson & Rice model airplane engine. After completing the airplane, Ernest and Dad went to a cotton field outside of Corpus Christi, TX. For the first "test" flight, Ernest had not put a timer and shut off switch on the plane. When Ernest let the plane go, it caught a thermal and flew away. Since Ernest was an excellent, 16 year old athlete, he ran off and followed the plane through the cotton fields. One hour later, Ernest came back with the plane and a big grin on his face. Ernest said that after running out of fuel and breaking free of the thermal, the plane came down in a gentle glide. He was determined not to lose that valuable O&R engine! He subsequently installed a timer and switch for many, later flights.
This story was one of many circumstances where Ernest impressed Dad. Ernest was an excellent athlete, determined person and scholar who eventually became a Physician in the Baltimore, Maryland area.
Long story short, you are correct that an O&R model airplane engine with a tank of fuel could fly away!!
Thanks a lot! That's one of the best comments I ever had on my videos!
I had a similar flyaway when I started with engines in 1950/51, except that it was a small diesel powered plane, in England, and I never did find it!!!
A 78 year old engine! Cleaned & run up! Awesome! "The old mount is a bit wobbly...I know how it feels..." HAAAAAA, YOU sir, are a proper old gentleman! Great video, Thank You!
Thanks for your kind comments. I have two of these engines, and they both run superbly. I have quite a lot of similar old engines. I really must find time to run a few.
Brian Cox I have never run a sparkie! I have many old control line glow engines and have recently been getting back into the hobby.
I am really impressed by its low idling speed, and clearly it is able to get up to speed too.
Wonderful!
Ohhh Brian ... I don´t know this old Ohlsson ... :-O it is wonderful
Hi J-M, Thank you for your comment.
This was the first commercial Ohlsson (Ohlsson Miniature - 1937).
It was followed by the Gold Seal (step fin) in 1938 and the Gold Seal taper fin model in 1939.
These were Irwin Ohlsson's engines.
Then the Ohlsson Custom (1940/41) started the era of the O&R engines.
I'll show them all on video when I get the time!
I have reviewed my American nodel engine encyclopedia and this is how you say.
the old girl came alive quite well! good for you. mate! anyone could see your anticipation by the way your hands were shaking💪👍
Thanks for your interest Ed. There will be other, similar videos. I have so many super old engines that I want to run.
Like many other people my real problem is time...
I would imagine using it for free flight you would set rudder so you had a good pattern and then set up a timer that would cut ignition to limit flight times. Be nice if a model company would come out with a modern recreation since it would be a shame to risk an original in a free flight model.
I just got same off Ebay, serial number 5996. Hope to run it some day and see if it will scream!
Thanks, Paul
It is so nice to see you running up your old engines.
That is a past time in itself.
I have two nice ED Racers I want to put into a Junior 60.
One at a time!..the other will go in something else.
I have a lathe to make an adaptor tube but was wondering whether I could fit a carby to it?
What do you think?
Peter
Thanks again for your kind remarks.
This is only my opinion, but if I wanted to use a Racer in a J60, I would leave the engine "as is" and just fly "climb and glide". You can see exactly this in my Junior 60 video. For gentle flying around with a throttle, I would use a PAW 19 TBR.
Flying "climb and glide" (see video), I try for a 3 min engine run in the air, which means you need a tank giving around 4 mins, to allow for a minute or so of messing around before you actually launch or take off. Trimming for a good glide after the engine stops will usually give a flight of around 10 mins.
Why do you use so high oil content in the fuel? You mention not less than 25% and about 1/3 oil. On normal 2 stroke engines bush trimmers etc the oil content is 2-5%
Multiple reasons for those small engines:
1) The conrod bearings are usually plain bearings, which need a lot of oil to last long. (Needle) roller bearings, which are used in larger two-stroke engines, are not feasible in this small dimensions.
2) The simple square-cube law. When you make an engine smaller, the displacement and therefore the fuel throughput decreases with the cube of the linear dimensions, the areas to be lubricated only by the square. So you need relatively more oil to keep everything well lubricated.
3) The oil does a lot of cooling by just being heated in contact with hot engine parts and then being thrown out of the exhaust.
@@VintageTechFan Interesting. I plan to run some bigger glow engines on gasoline, also 4-stroke engines, and i read most places thatt 4-5% should do the trick. Of course they dont have plain bearings like this one, but ball bearings on the crankshaft, but it still has plain bearings on the connecting rod. Do you have some recomendations for 4 stroke oil mix? Thanks
@@Hans45 Sorry, no experience in gas conversions .. yet ;).
I'm not a technical expert, but I think there are several reasons, mostly related to the area of metal generating friction (plain piston contact area vs just a couple of rings, plain crankshaft bearing (bushing) vs twin ball-race).
One thing is sure, the oil need is real and not just hearsay or "tradition". If you try to run big old plain bearing glow or spark ignition engines on standard glow fuel (20% oil), they slow down and stop. I've done it! They really do need around 30% oil.
Sweet engine what's the brand of castor oil your useing?
+Luke Shaw Hi Luke, Thanks for your comment.
Like it says in the video, I'm using Castrol M, which is castor treated to be usable with ordinary gas. Unfortunately Castrol M is no longer made.
BUT, I have used, and do use, other oils, particularly modern racing 2-stroke synthetic, sold in most hypermarkets for 2-stroke motocross bikes, etc.
The actual oil isn't critical. Over the years, I've used many good quality car engine oils, and they all give good results! There's still some old folklore on the subject, particularly in the US, but the oil really is "no problem". You just have to use "good quality" and "enough" (not less than 25%). Regards, Brian
Thanks bud!
Salut Brian, quelle est la cylindrée de ce moteur?
+Claude Dhekaier
Salut Claude, Tous les premiers Ohlsson, c'est à dire les "Miniature", puis les "Gold Seal" (tout ce qui est pré-1940) sont des .56 (environ 9,5 cc).
You lucky bugger I'd give my right arm t find that to own , she run like a new 1 🤙🤙
You're in luck!
I possess two of these engines, so if you have a second arm that you're not using, we could probably do business.
@@briancox3691 would love to mate but the wife would most likely kill me😂😂🤙
Merci Brokenenglish!!!
+SuperStuffo Merci à vous. J'espère que ça vous a plu. Il y en aura d'autres (et beaucoup!). BC
This not 6,400 rpm. İt is 6400/2=3,200 rpm. Because propeller has 2 wings.
You don't understand and you have never used an rpm counter.
The counter takes into account the number of propeller blades. You can select 2 or 3 blades usually.