Hey Jenn, I set at my school rock climbing wall for a quarter. I noticed that many of your climbs are just left hand-right foot - right hand - left foot, and repeat until top. They also all go straight up. There's also no utilage of heel or toe hooks. It's not a problem if you're having fun, and you can definitely still get proper strong just doing a ladder-like climb, but if you get bored, I have a tip for you! What I've found very helpful to prevent climbs that feel left-right - left-rightey is to decide, before making a climb, to incorporate a cool move. The move could be inspired by a video, or just something you want to try to work on. For example: - make a climb that traverses to the right before going up. (this could be a traverse with a row of feet on the bottom, or it could be one where you're mostly sideways, using heel hooks on the hand holds a lot) - making sure there a forced heel hook - making sure there a forced toe hook - making sure there's a move where you have to bump/match - forcing a rose move Etc. Etc. If ever you want to mix it up, try setting with a move in mind, or general idea (for example the overall path the climb traces on the board) in mind. Cheers!
I would totally hire you to set my home wall if I had one. 🏆 Great to see your process for setting. I'm always so baffled and awed by route setting and how setters make boulder problems JUST the right amount of possible/challenge.
*Squawk* Dude, it's the little things like this that made me fall on love with your channel. It's fun, it's pretty and it's silly which is just so refreshing. With the world as it is, you're a breath or normality and a more needed comic relief. Keep being awesome, and don't pressure yourself to get content out. I sure I speak for everyone when I say videos where you're a relaxed Jenn make us happy. We'll wait longer between videos if we have to! Big love. Keep being awesome.
It's a pleasure! I mean, you're the one making the content and doing the hardwork. Both me and my other half absolutely adore your videos. I am jealous you have climbing wall though!
It's awesome that you're donating the ad funds! Always such positive vibes from your content and message, I love it ^_^ Are we gonna see more podcasty camera chats like before?
Been watching this channel for a long time now....2nd time commenting...keep these videos coming because they're really good to watch. Keep up the awesome work!
A lot of the fun of home walls comes from the limitations. In my setup I often ended up just throwing on a bunch of small holds and making up problems. I quickly realized that you can make a project out of just two to four moves of lunging between crimps or footholds. It was funny too when I tried to create 4x4s or ridiculously awkward circuits in the small dimensions.
Dood this looks SO fun!! Good job makin' the most out of your home set-up. 😁 Also, from personal experience, breaks are 100000% necessary so good on you for taking the time off that you needed. 😊
An Ex setter here. It might make sense to start with a v4 in a small wall like this since big holds get in a way of small hold but not the other way around. Although in the gyms setters start with hard grades and then other setters place big holds in the way because they don't pay attention where they are setting. Just an interesting nuance to consider :)
Is your wall a Moon Board? My buddy built a Moon Board, and I have to say, I think it is really a fantastic tool for training. I mean, it's nothing special as far as the concept (just well thought out problems that develop certain movements that you will encounter when actually rock climbing), it's just done so well. The only "bad" thing about the Moon Board is that it starts at V3, but that's of course with the Moon holds, you can put an easier route up for warming up. Another tough thing is that the board is meant to be at a 45 degree angle. Some people can move their wall, but if you can't 45 degrees is super steep. You buy the holds, the problems are set and you get them from their website. Maybe you know all about it, and I'm wasting my time, but I was just curious.
Jenn: "please watch ads to support these important causes" *A particular political ad pops up* Me: *screams and reflexively skips* "shoot, I promised Jenn" And that's why I'm watching this a few more times as penance.
The wall I work at has finally opened up again. I'm super rusty after 4+ months off the wall though. Also your better at setting than most of the people I work with, and me for that matter lol.
aww that's really sweet! it would be cool to set in a gym and see people of all sizes try these problems :~) i'm sure you'll get right back into the swing of things on the wall soon!
I just found your channel a couple weeks ago and i binged a ton of your videos, i really enjoy them! I wish i had to money to make a home wall, luckily here in texas climbing gyms have opened back up though!
ahh so glad you're here! and yeah, some of my friends in texas can now climb again - there are some social distancing rules in gyms but it's all gradually opening up!
Jenn Sends yeah there are a ton of rules and theyre super strict about it, its hard when im totally gassed out and i have a mask over my face. Worth it though lol
2:26 that's not weird imo, I do it too. so much easier than foot switching with hopping/short release. great video! my climbing gym doesnt use V or FB grading. Just some random colors. I had no idea where I'm at since most climbing youtubers climb way above my level. Now, I think I can barely do that v4.
Wondering how you reconcile the screw-in holds? Are you just like, "Well, this hold is here forever now" or do you plan on removing the screw-in holds?
@@JenniferLangen I'd definitely like to see that, you seem really fun people to climb with! ^^ I look forward to see more of him. He looks like a really focused and collected climber.
Nice, most route setters I've seen rarely have climbing shoes on when setting or testing, look of the routes look comparable grade wise to what I've climbed on, though that seems a long time ago.
holds are really expensive, i got a pack from metolius before they sold out a while ago that had around ~60 holds? and menagerie climbing is 50% off i think. hope this helps!
Nice! I set at my gym and always enjoy seeing others' process. Your 3 & 4 look fun! Your wall looks like it can host some fun dynos nudge nudge wink wink
our gyms are reopening, but have a reservation system where they only allow a certain number of climbers in the gym at a time. all climbers inside have to wear face masks!
I need to build a home a wall. Going to the gym makes me too anxious and I hate being tired around other people watching. Plus I can yell and cuss at home when I fuk up without disturbing others.
At 5:38 you called it a full crimp, but it wasn't. You just wrapped your thumb around, which is good. You should always try to use your thumb like that when you can. Full crimping is when you hyperextend the DIP joints in your first three fingers, and then wrap your thumb around those distal phalanges in order to get even more leverage off those hyperextended structures.
I like to say the difference between 0’s, 1’s and 2’s is like a ladder. You can easily climb a ladder given all the steps (V0), but when you go up the ladder every other step it’s a little more difficult (V1) and etc
In a somewhat complementary way, I kinda think of the early grades by how many holds you can skip. I've been on a lot of V0's with 10 hand holds that I can get up in like 2 moves. A V1 still might have some holds that I can skip without much hassle. When I start getting up to V4, I think the problems start getting hard/deliberate enough that every hold has a very intended purpose and it is difficult to get into later positions on the problem without doing more or less what the route setter intends for you to do.
our gyms are gradually opening in Los Angeles, but i'm choosing to stay home because despite the fact that our gyms are open, the number of cases in the city are still quite high. glad to hear you're climbing safely in Germany!
All the US states are in various stages of opening, using a variety of systems to indicate what can open when. And even when they can open, some places aren't ready for the new protocols for keeping people and places clean and safe. In Ohio there are some gyms open, some limiting with a reservation system or members only, and some still closed.
CRIMPS!!!! >_< "it's like one pad"... for you, for me it would be like a half pad :'D my crashpad cost me 0$ i made it myself from an old worn out mattress in corona times =) im quite happy with it, its just a lil small, especially when you are like 2m (6ft) up, you are like: O_O!!!
TheValinov that is absolutely ingenious! You’ve made it look so neat and tidy. I had visions of springs coming out of the sides haha. Great effort there. Brilliant stuff.
I take it you delete comments that don't fall in line with your own beliefs. Pretty sure I left a comment about how bogus this whole BLM, black obsession is Black people are NOT oppressed anymore. Most black people don't even care one way or another about these fringe groups, or if anything, they do not agree with the super far left views of these groups. Why politicise your channel? It's such a nice channel on it's own, you don't need to scare people off by supporting something that is so partisan.
Hey Jenn,
I set at my school rock climbing wall for a quarter. I noticed that many of your climbs are just left hand-right foot - right hand - left foot, and repeat until top. They also all go straight up. There's also no utilage of heel or toe hooks. It's not a problem if you're having fun, and you can definitely still get proper strong just doing a ladder-like climb, but if you get bored, I have a tip for you!
What I've found very helpful to prevent climbs that feel left-right - left-rightey is to decide, before making a climb, to incorporate a cool move. The move could be inspired by a video, or just something you want to try to work on.
For example:
- make a climb that traverses to the right before going up. (this could be a traverse with a row of feet on the bottom, or it could be one where you're mostly sideways, using heel hooks on the hand holds a lot)
- making sure there a forced heel hook
- making sure there a forced toe hook
- making sure there's a move where you have to bump/match
- forcing a rose move
Etc. Etc.
If ever you want to mix it up, try setting with a move in mind, or general idea (for example the overall path the climb traces on the board) in mind.
Cheers!
thanks a bunch! still learning a lot about setting every time i put a problem up. gonna try these tips out! thanks again!
every time she smacked the wall all i could think of was the car salesman meme;
"*slaps roof of climbing wall*
this bad boy can fit so many holds"
LOL!! I do take a long time to warm up, True story. Also, Good setting skills Jenn, look at you!
I would totally hire you to set my home wall if I had one. 🏆
Great to see your process for setting. I'm always so baffled and awed by route setting and how setters make boulder problems JUST the right amount of possible/challenge.
gahh thanks so much hannah!!! i could probably set some banger warmups for you ;~)
so happy to see a nice calming setting video, that v4 makes me want to climb again 😖 also so glad you’re donating the ad dollars !!
ahh thanks so much! glad that V4 was inspiring to you :~D
This channel is like climbing ASMR, I love it! Sick wall by the way.
*Squawk*
Dude, it's the little things like this that made me fall on love with your channel. It's fun, it's pretty and it's silly which is just so refreshing.
With the world as it is, you're a breath or normality and a more needed comic relief. Keep being awesome, and don't pressure yourself to get content out.
I sure I speak for everyone when I say videos where you're a relaxed Jenn make us happy. We'll wait longer between videos if we have to!
Big love. Keep being awesome.
andrew!!!! thank you so much!! i'm glad you enjoy the little silly bits of my videos :~) thanks for the encouragement!!
It's a pleasure! I mean, you're the one making the content and doing the hardwork. Both me and my other half absolutely adore your videos.
I am jealous you have climbing wall though!
thanks! a great help as I'm stumbling along figuring out how to set problems on my own new home wall. and, I really like your music...very calming :)
It's awesome that you're donating the ad funds! Always such positive vibes from your content and message, I love it ^_^ Are we gonna see more podcasty camera chats like before?
Another Jenn sends upload yes! I'm glad you're alright and still sending the nar
I love your unique editing style. Also, your climbing is very relatable for me as something of a newbie. Great to see another post from you.
NICE JEN!! Love seeing your creativity at setting! Can't wait for the next reset (V4 - V8) 💥
HAH i can probably set a V8, but i DEFINITELY cannot climb one! thanks so much for watching :~)
Your editing style is great ♡
Glad you are feeling better and are back to posting! I missed all the great climbing vids
Been watching this channel for a long time now....2nd time commenting...keep these videos coming because they're really good to watch. Keep up the awesome work!
A lot of the fun of home walls comes from the limitations. In my setup I often ended up just throwing on a bunch of small holds and making up problems. I quickly realized that you can make a project out of just two to four moves of lunging between crimps or footholds. It was funny too when I tried to create 4x4s or ridiculously awkward circuits in the small dimensions.
Your hair looks so good in this video! haha glad the wall is working well :)
"Less holds to confuse you less" - I have never related so much
LMAO i'm a simple climber :D
New subbie here! After binging all of your videos I was sad I ran out haha, glad you posted!!
ahhh wow thanks so much for watching!!! there will be more coming soon! :~))
Dood this looks SO fun!! Good job makin' the most out of your home set-up. 😁 Also, from personal experience, breaks are 100000% necessary so good on you for taking the time off that you needed. 😊
the bird squawks really got me :-) lovely video as always, jenn!
hehe thanks tate! :~)
0:46 yo Jenn kinda buff O_O
no more Jenn Sends, it's Jenn SWOLE now
An Ex setter here. It might make sense to start with a v4 in a small wall like this since big holds get in a way of small hold but not the other way around. Although in the gyms setters start with hard grades and then other setters place big holds in the way because they don't pay attention where they are setting. Just an interesting nuance to consider :)
Is your wall a Moon Board? My buddy built a Moon Board, and I have to say, I think it is really a fantastic tool for training. I mean, it's nothing special as far as the concept (just well thought out problems that develop certain movements that you will encounter when actually rock climbing), it's just done so well.
The only "bad" thing about the Moon Board is that it starts at V3, but that's of course with the Moon holds, you can put an easier route up for warming up. Another tough thing is that the board is meant to be at a 45 degree angle. Some people can move their wall, but if you can't 45 degrees is super steep. You buy the holds, the problems are set and you get them from their website.
Maybe you know all about it, and I'm wasting my time, but I was just curious.
Thank you again for the peace brought to me by these videos :)
yay, another Jenn video! i've missed these! Awesome vid like always! can't wait for the V5 one!
full crimping a pinch is my jam
Ohh so nice! In my country we can finally climb again because my boulder hall made an outside wall and its so nice!
Jenn: "please watch ads to support these important causes"
*A particular political ad pops up*
Me: *screams and reflexively skips* "shoot, I promised Jenn"
And that's why I'm watching this a few more times as penance.
I think rewatching it was worth not throwing up after looking at a dirty orange peel
y’all so lucky w ur home walls imma barely be able to send v3 when gyms reopen 😪
Editing as always on point and lovely *this is fine*. Looking forward to the next video. :)
hehe i'm glad those little jokes don't go unnoticed!!
The wall I work at has finally opened up again. I'm super rusty after 4+ months off the wall though.
Also your better at setting than most of the people I work with, and me for that matter lol.
aww that's really sweet! it would be cool to set in a gym and see people of all sizes try these problems :~) i'm sure you'll get right back into the swing of things on the wall soon!
I just found your channel a couple weeks ago and i binged a ton of your videos, i really enjoy them! I wish i had to money to make a home wall, luckily here in texas climbing gyms have opened back up though!
ahh so glad you're here! and yeah, some of my friends in texas can now climb again - there are some social distancing rules in gyms but it's all gradually opening up!
Jenn Sends yeah there are a ton of rules and theyre super strict about it, its hard when im totally gassed out and i have a mask over my face. Worth it though lol
Meanwhile here in georgia gyms have been opened forever and not strict but everyone keeps on a mask at least...
2:26 that's not weird imo, I do it too. so much easier than foot switching with hopping/short release.
great video! my climbing gym doesnt use V or FB grading. Just some random colors. I had no idea where I'm at since most climbing youtubers climb way above my level. Now, I think I can barely do that v4.
Wondering how you reconcile the screw-in holds? Are you just like, "Well, this hold is here forever now" or do you plan on removing the screw-in holds?
Everybody loves Martin. Introverts unite!
LOL if you could only see how much he talks in real life!! :D definitely will feature him in more vids!
@@JenniferLangen I'd definitely like to see that, you seem really fun people to climb with! ^^
I look forward to see more of him. He looks like a really focused and collected climber.
Do you have a link for those holds you have? 🤔
I love watching these
Nice set! Try adding a bit more horizontal movement, and less left hand-right hand-left hand-right hand movements!
Nice, most route setters I've seen rarely have climbing shoes on when setting or testing, look of the routes look comparable grade wise to what I've climbed on, though that seems a long time ago.
Hi Jenn, just wondering where you got the holds from as all the ones i’m findings are very expensive? Thanks
holds are really expensive, i got a pack from metolius before they sold out a while ago that had around ~60 holds? and menagerie climbing is 50% off i think. hope this helps!
Jenn Sends THANK YOU :))
Hey Jenn! , good to see you are ok , keep the vids coming! :) cheers from Guadalajara
I am hooked. Do you post spec. of materials to build the wall climbing. Thanks.
Nice! I set at my gym and always enjoy seeing others' process. Your 3 & 4 look fun! Your wall looks like it can host some fun dynos nudge nudge wink wink
V0: jugs
V1: jugs
V2: Jugs
V3: Jugs (but underclings)
V4: CRIMPS
It's basically a perfect replica of my gym!
Nice new problems!
What's the situation on reopening climbing gyms where you are?
our gyms are reopening, but have a reservation system where they only allow a certain number of climbers in the gym at a time. all climbers inside have to wear face masks!
So, curious, does the hold make the grade? Or could you take a few jugs and make it a V4?
I need to build a home a wall. Going to the gym makes me too anxious and I hate being tired around other people watching. Plus I can yell and cuss at home when I fuk up without disturbing others.
I wonder if there are still no gyms reopening in California? Here in Germany everything is already reopened.
At 5:38 you called it a full crimp, but it wasn't. You just wrapped your thumb around, which is good. You should always try to use your thumb like that when you can. Full crimping is when you hyperextend the DIP joints in your first three fingers, and then wrap your thumb around those distal phalanges in order to get even more leverage off those hyperextended structures.
I like to say the difference between 0’s, 1’s and 2’s is like a ladder. You can easily climb a ladder given all the steps (V0), but when you go up the ladder every other step it’s a little more difficult (V1) and etc
In a somewhat complementary way, I kinda think of the early grades by how many holds you can skip. I've been on a lot of V0's with 10 hand holds that I can get up in like 2 moves. A V1 still might have some holds that I can skip without much hassle. When I start getting up to V4, I think the problems start getting hard/deliberate enough that every hold has a very intended purpose and it is difficult to get into later positions on the problem without doing more or less what the route setter intends for you to do.
Where'd you get your holds? I got a basic set from Atomik, but could definitely use more. :)
i got them from metolius, element, and menagerie! :~) most are from metolius though.
@@JenniferLangen funny enough I just ordered 10lbs of clearance holds from element! I'll check out what metolius has too. Thanks!
Do you now Rockentry's rationale for warming up off the wall?
Great video, as always, Jenn! buuuuut that blue one is not a V0 though... Foot crossing and flagging on overhang for a V0? I don't think so lol.
hahaha, i work with what i have! :~) glad you liked the video!
Difficulty of the routes I build really depends on what music I play when I build....soft and smooth routes with jazz and brutal hard with metal 😁
This was very rad fr - motivating vid. #thetimeisnow
I like the sqawk animations lol
Where are you getting your holds from?
i got a big variety set from metolius, and the rest are from menagerie and element! menagerie is having a 50% off sale i think :~)
What are the blue holds on the V0?
I want more awkwardness. I want more Martin.
I HEAR YOU!! the people want more martin! they will get more martin!
Have any of your holds ever fallen off while your climbing?
they've never fallen off, but some have spun before!
OMG SHE REPLIED 😭🥳 love u Jenn your are like amazing and I love your home wall me and my sister really hope to get one soon 🧗🏻♀️
Aren’t the pink and blue both v0?
they're def closer in rating than the pink and purple are, but again, this vid and the grades are just for fun haha
Hey Jenn, i started bouldering in Germany 4 weeks ago and am absolutely hooked, are your gyms in the US still closed? Cheers
Some are open in England.
our gyms are gradually opening in Los Angeles, but i'm choosing to stay home because despite the fact that our gyms are open, the number of cases in the city are still quite high. glad to hear you're climbing safely in Germany!
@@cleverly9575 No way, really? My gym in the UK hasn't opened and lockdown hasn't even fully eased yet
@@aurielle112 Ours has an outside tower and bordering wall so we've been able to open in a limited capacity.
All the US states are in various stages of opening, using a variety of systems to indicate what can open when. And even when they can open, some places aren't ready for the new protocols for keeping people and places clean and safe. In Ohio there are some gyms open, some limiting with a reservation system or members only, and some still closed.
wow..nice
audio is pretty low, but great video! I'd love to see more like this
gahh i think my microphone settings are a little off. i have to turn my volume way up to edit these sometimes. i'll try to fix it in the next one!!
Now we've gotta set a v5 :0
dude, already set the first part of the next video ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
I think you should design a 'Jenn Sends' pad and pitch it to a pad manufacturer.
You’re gorgeous and cool af.
wait is martin your bf
So was it a Spider? lol!
How do you have so many holds 😂🤣
someone at my wall set a rout with 57 holds!!!! on like a 15-meter wall.
Brit boy 2009 oh my 😂😂
i was able to snag a big metolius variety set before they all sold out! the other holds are from element and menagerie.
CRIMPS!!!! >_< "it's like one pad"... for you, for me it would be like a half pad :'D
my crashpad cost me 0$ i made it myself from an old worn out mattress in corona times =) im quite happy with it, its just a lil small, especially when you are like 2m (6ft) up, you are like: O_O!!!
TheValinov you made a crash mat out of a used mattress 😳 WTF
@@MF-CLIMB it works quite fine. a bit bad to transport but super good nonetheless... i will post a link under this comment, hopefully you can see it:
@@MF-CLIMB www.bilder-upload.eu/bild-6d2a1c-1593068335.jpg.html
TheValinov that is absolutely ingenious! You’ve made it look so neat and tidy. I had visions of springs coming out of the sides haha. Great effort there. Brilliant stuff.
@@MF-CLIMB hahaha, this vision of springs sounds horrible! xD
thx :D
I take it you delete comments that don't fall in line with your own beliefs.
Pretty sure I left a comment about how bogus this whole BLM, black obsession is Black people are NOT oppressed anymore. Most black people don't even care one way or another about these fringe groups, or if anything, they do not agree with the super far left views of these groups.
Why politicise your channel? It's such a nice channel on it's own, you don't need to scare people off by supporting something that is so partisan.
3:18 It looks setting for babys
Cool! I've made a home wall myself, check it out if you have time and let me know if we have any similar problems 😉
I watched a Trump add for you
Yayyy love ur vids girl :) thanks for donating the money off this video 💕