I have just bought one of these with the two auxillary lenses, the optical and sports finders and a close-up set. The engineering on these is excellent and they are very satisfying to use.
Thanks. Well done. I just pulled this out of a storage box I had it in for years. It belonged to my father. It's in great shape. Well made. Can't wait to try it out.
When I was first learning photography, as a kid in the 1960's, many of the adults in my life owned these Cameras. I got to handle them often. But..... I haven't even seen one for 40 years or so! We always got excellent results with them. And several Family Albums from that period contain many dozens of prints made with those same Cameras.
id get this and relive memory of my father. I use to fiddle with it when i was little . Now i grown up and realise it has f2.0 lens and how well-built this camera was
This was my father's first entry to 35mm filming in the 50's. I want one just to have it but as I'm totally into Digital cameras I'll never go back to film. I can still appreciate the quality that was built into this camera even though it is 70 years old now and would like to have one just for my collection.
If you want internal frame lines in the viewfinder for the 35 and 80mm lenses, get a IIIC (or IIC, large "C"). You also get a much larger, more clear viewfinder. Of the various versions of this camera, my favorite is the IIC Probably the most difficult to find), which is just like the IIIC but without the built-in meter - much cleaner appearance and the meter is usually dead or "off" anyway.
I have a Retina lllc an a lllC which I purchased on Ebay I was lucky enough to have an old school camera repairman about an hour from my home. His favorite camera to work on are the German Retinas and he owns several. He repaired and CLA'ed the cameras and when he was done they looked like new. These cameras have a reputation for being fragile, however, this is largely due to improper use. Like most old rangefinders improper use will break them, change the speed on many old rangefinders without cocking the camera will damage them. With the German Retinas you can't force the film advance lever. People break them when they get to the end of a roll of film and try to force the lever. When it stops don't try to force it, It's not a Nikon F2. Also, don't try to rapidly advance the film like you would on a Nikon. This camera is full of small precision parts and can't be manhandled. While the lllC is taller then the lllc its worth the increased size due to the larger viewfinder. While even my old eyes can use the smaller viewfinder on the lllc the larger viewfinder on the lllC is a pleasurer to use.
Hi mathew! thats great that you know a repairman that lives closeby! i actually have been looking for someone to repair my iiic with a possible stripped lever. Do you know if your repairman can fix mine? im in ca. thanks in advance!
A great camera..hard to use nowdays as the viewfinder is usually cloudy..meter will not work but the image quality is remarkable..silent shutter..best to use zone focusing and a phone app light meter..
@@sprocketandwheel Just found this... "Kodak Retina cameras were manufactured in Stuttgart-Wangen by the Kodak AG Dr. Nagel Werk which Kodak had acquired in December 1931." Also check out the Chris Sherlock channel...PAR EXCELLANCE Retina servicing and a collector of the same !!
I have IIa model and it's so compact that I can fit it in my pants pocket, so convenient to grab and take photos. The lens is just brilliant. A drawback is just there is no parallax correction.
The IIa actually does have parallax correction! It's subtle, but if you watch close in the viewfinder, when you move the focus the image itself shifts a little. So it's actually built in and therefore doesn't need the bright line correction so many other rangefinders use.
Daniel O'Herrick I think the lenses were not coated back then . Did the lenses lack contrast as a result ? What is your opinion of the technical quality of the photos taken by them ?
@@sauravbasu8805 Lenses were definitely coated in 1965. See: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-reflective_coating Lenses from Zeiss, Leitz, Schneider, Rodenstock, and most other German lens manufacturers, were coated even as early as the mid-1930s.
Note that the lens in his camera is made by Schneider, while the manual in German he refers to show the accessory lenses as made by Rodenstock (Heligron). A potential for error exists when you have one of the II or III Retinas and shop for one of these wide angle or telephoto accessory lenses. All of these cameras were made in Germany by Kodak. All the cameras use that same, tiny, tricky to use, bayonet mount to interchange the front lens groups. However, Kodak ordered that the versions shipped for sale in the USA be fitted with the Schneider lenses (50mm 2.0 Xenon or 50mm 2.8, depending on camera model), whereas versions for sale in Europe and elsewhere were fitted with the Rodenstock lenses (50mm 2.0 or 2.8 Heligon). While the Schneider accessory wide and telephoto components can be mechanically mounted to the Rodenstock lenses, and visa versa, they are not optically compatible. Using them cross-fitted will degrade the resulting images obtained. It is said that the Schneider and Rodenstock lens sets are equal in optical performance, but there clearly are some slight differences. Similarly, before you buy one of these bodies, check the serial number on the body and on the 50mm front lens group. They should have the same number, because they are factory matched for best optical performance. Sometimes a front group will get lost or damaged, and the unscrupulous seller will swap a front lens from another camera - do not buy.
Very well done reviewing the Retina. I bought one of these earlier this year and love it. Loading 24 exposure film can be tricky so I’ve switched it over to just use 36 exp rolls. The small c retinas look much better than the big c’s in my opinion and you get more features regarding the light meter. Also from the looks of it, you appear to have an early model of the small c! Mostly due to it having an unprotected film counter release button. (button on top) Later small c models from 55-56 fixed this issue by installing a semi cut shroud around the button. Which prevented the user from accidentally pressing the button.
If you have one of these cameras (IIc, IIC, IIIc, or IIIC), and you want a 35mm or 80mm accessory lens, note that the cameras came with either a lens by Schneider or Rodenstock (less common in the US). You need an accessory lens from the same maker as the original 50mm on your camera. Although an accessory lens from Rodenstock will fit onto a camera with a Schneider 50mm (and visa versa), it is not optically compatible. Always buy accessory lenses by the same maker of the 50mm on your camera.
Awesome video. I just got one from my grandpa who passed away! When i move the film forward, the shutter opens like its taking a photo. then when I press the button to capture a photo it wont depress and the shutter wont open. When i go to move the lever again to move the film forward, it wont budge until i press the film release button. Then same thing happens again. Any ideas? Thanks
Check the frame counter on top of camera. It starts at 36 and counts photos down to "0". The counter does not automatically reset when the camera back is opened, like many cameras, but must be manually reset by user. When the counter reaches "0", it locks the film advance, shutter cocking, etc., until reset. Your counter has reached 0; it will unlock when you reset it to 36 or any other setting.than "0".
Thank you for this really helpful video! I'm really interested in to buy this one. On the internet there is no really detailed info about this camera. May I ask you to show us the photo, if you have, of how frameline looks like, and how bright is it thought the viewfinder in this particular camera? After several days research I found it nowhere this kind of explanation photo of frameline. Thank you All the best I wish you good day
Do you know is it possible that moment that: front element's both serial numbers match each other and body's serial number dont? (which appear when you open film door and near the lens's back glass) - or is it impossible? when third, - actual body's serial number don't match only the other two? Thank you
Thank you for the great review, I just bought one as a result of your excellent review and I can't wait to test it out. Have you run a film through it yet , was wondering if the lens needs the hood because of flare or not
I’ve got mine today and I got the 1b model too both in nice condition looking forward to putting a film through it soon.
I have just bought one of these with the two auxillary lenses, the optical and sports finders and a close-up set. The engineering on these is excellent and they are very satisfying to use.
Thanks. Well done. I just pulled this out of a storage box I had it in for years. It belonged to my father. It's in great shape. Well made. Can't wait to try it out.
When I was first learning photography, as a kid in the 1960's, many of the adults in my life owned these Cameras. I got to handle them often. But.....
I haven't even seen one for 40 years or so! We always got excellent results with them. And several Family Albums from that period contain many dozens of prints made with those same Cameras.
id get this and relive memory of my father. I use to fiddle with it when i was little . Now i grown up and realise it has f2.0 lens and how well-built this camera was
This was my father's first entry to 35mm filming in the 50's. I want one just to have it but as I'm totally into Digital cameras I'll never go back to film. I can still appreciate the quality that was built into this camera even though it is 70 years old now and would like to have one just for my collection.
If you want internal frame lines in the viewfinder for the 35 and 80mm lenses, get a IIIC (or IIC, large "C"). You also get a much larger, more clear viewfinder. Of the various versions of this camera, my favorite is the IIC Probably the most difficult to find), which is just like the IIIC but without the built-in meter - much cleaner appearance and the meter is usually dead or "off" anyway.
Another fabulous review Tony. You are the benchmark of camera reviewers.
Camera Rover Thanks!
A wonderful and quite thorough insight into this camera. Thank you for posting.
Great informative video.
I am just starting to use a IIIC. Love the neat old quirky features and the quality is impressive.
Thanks.
I have a Retina lllc an a lllC which I purchased on Ebay I was lucky enough to have an old school camera repairman about an hour from my home. His favorite camera to work on are the German Retinas and he owns several. He repaired and CLA'ed the cameras and when he was done they looked like new. These cameras have a reputation for being fragile, however, this is largely due to improper use. Like most old rangefinders improper use will break them, change the speed on many old rangefinders without cocking the camera will damage them. With the German Retinas you can't force the film advance lever. People break them when they get to the end of a roll of film and try to force the lever. When it stops don't try to force it, It's not a Nikon F2. Also, don't try to rapidly advance the film like you would on a Nikon. This camera is full of small precision parts and can't be manhandled. While the lllC is taller then the lllc its worth the increased size due to the larger viewfinder. While even my old eyes can use the smaller viewfinder on the lllc the larger viewfinder on the lllC is a pleasurer to use.
Thanks for the info!
Hi mathew! thats great that you know a repairman that lives closeby! i actually have been looking for someone to repair my iiic with a possible stripped lever. Do you know if your repairman can fix mine? im in ca. thanks in advance!
Looks like it's made by Zeiss Ikon for Kodak as it exudes Contaflex quality in its build and also the leather case !!
A great camera..hard to use nowdays as the viewfinder is usually cloudy..meter will not work but the image quality is remarkable..silent shutter..best to use zone focusing and a phone app light meter..
@@sprocketandwheel
Just found this...
"Kodak Retina cameras were manufactured in Stuttgart-Wangen by the Kodak AG Dr. Nagel Werk which Kodak had acquired in December 1931."
Also check out the Chris Sherlock channel...PAR EXCELLANCE Retina servicing and a collector of the same !!
Great camera! A joy to use, especially for snapshots and street photography.
I have IIa model and it's so compact that I can fit it in my pants pocket, so convenient to grab and take photos. The lens is just brilliant. A drawback is just there is no parallax correction.
The IIa actually does have parallax correction! It's subtle, but if you watch close in the viewfinder, when you move the focus the image itself shifts a little. So it's actually built in and therefore doesn't need the bright line correction so many other rangefinders use.
I love mine. I rather shoot with this than a Leica 35mm and it much more cost-effective.
This was my 1st camera in 1965.
Daniel O'Herrick I think the lenses were not coated back then . Did the lenses lack contrast as a result ? What is your opinion of the technical quality of the photos taken by them ?
@@sauravbasu8805 Lenses were definitely coated in 1965.
See: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-reflective_coating
Lenses from Zeiss, Leitz, Schneider, Rodenstock, and most other German lens manufacturers, were coated even as early as the mid-1930s.
thanks for reviewing , I ve got one from my father. and did not know how to manage. hugs from Brazil
Andre Goldfarb Enjoy!
Note that the lens in his camera is made by Schneider, while the manual in German he refers to show the accessory lenses as made by Rodenstock (Heligron). A potential for error exists when you have one of the II or III Retinas and shop for one of these wide angle or telephoto accessory lenses. All of these cameras were made in Germany by Kodak. All the cameras use that same, tiny, tricky to use, bayonet mount to interchange the front lens groups. However, Kodak ordered that the versions shipped for sale in the USA be fitted with the Schneider lenses (50mm 2.0 Xenon or 50mm 2.8, depending on camera model), whereas versions for sale in Europe and elsewhere were fitted with the Rodenstock lenses (50mm 2.0 or 2.8 Heligon). While the Schneider accessory wide and telephoto components can be mechanically mounted to the Rodenstock lenses, and visa versa, they are not optically compatible. Using them cross-fitted will degrade the resulting images obtained. It is said that the Schneider and Rodenstock lens sets are equal in optical performance, but there clearly are some slight differences. Similarly, before you buy one of these bodies, check the serial number on the body and on the 50mm front lens group. They should have the same number, because they are factory matched for best optical performance. Sometimes a front group will get lost or damaged, and the unscrupulous seller will swap a front lens from another camera - do not buy.
Thanks for the information.
Very well done reviewing the Retina. I bought one of these earlier this year and love it. Loading 24 exposure film can be tricky so I’ve switched it over to just use 36 exp rolls. The small c retinas look much better than the big c’s in my opinion and you get more features regarding the light meter.
Also from the looks of it, you appear to have an early model of the small c! Mostly due to it having an unprotected film counter release button. (button on top) Later small c models from 55-56 fixed this issue by installing a semi cut shroud around the button. Which prevented the user from accidentally pressing the button.
Thanks for the info!
I had a RETINA lllc...it's a great camera!
thanks a lot, it helped me understand my fleamarket buy immediately!
If you have one of these cameras (IIc, IIC, IIIc, or IIIC), and you want a 35mm or 80mm accessory lens, note that the cameras came with either a lens by Schneider or Rodenstock (less common in the US). You need an accessory lens from the same maker as the original 50mm on your camera. Although an accessory lens from Rodenstock will fit onto a camera with a Schneider 50mm (and visa versa), it is not optically compatible. Always buy accessory lenses by the same maker of the 50mm on your camera.
Thanks for the advice.
great video～i got a iic, if change the front element to 35mm f5.6, can i fold the camera properly？ths～
Great Review Tony 👍👍👍👍
Film Camera Reviews Thanks Steve!
Awesome video. I just got one from my grandpa who passed away! When i move the film forward, the shutter opens like its taking a photo. then when I press the button to capture a photo it wont depress and the shutter wont open. When i go to move the lever again to move the film forward, it wont budge until i press the film release button. Then same thing happens again. Any ideas? Thanks
I'm not an expert on the workings of these cameras, but it sounds like your shutter is jammed!
Check the frame counter on top of camera. It starts at 36 and counts photos down to "0". The counter does not automatically reset when the camera back is opened, like many cameras, but must be manually reset by user. When the counter reaches "0", it locks the film advance, shutter cocking, etc., until reset. Your counter has reached 0; it will unlock when you reset it to 36 or any other setting.than "0".
What do you think of Agfa Karat 36 by comparison?
Thank you for this really helpful video! I'm really interested in to buy this one. On the internet there is no really detailed info about this camera. May I ask you to show us the photo, if you have, of how frameline looks like, and how bright is it thought the viewfinder in this particular camera? After several days research I found it nowhere this kind of explanation photo of frameline.
Thank you
All the best
I wish you good day
I no longer have this camera. The viewfinder is a little small, but usable.
Best camera ever made. Does anyone repair shutter and bellows issues?
Do you know is it possible that moment that: front element's both serial numbers match each other and body's serial number dont? (which appear when you open film door and near the lens's back glass) - or is it impossible? when third, - actual body's serial number don't match only the other two?
Thank you
Sorry, I don't know.
Thank you for the great review, I just bought one as a result of your excellent review and I can't wait to test it out. Have you run a film through it yet , was wondering if the lens needs the hood because of flare or not
I've actually sold this camera now and didn't get round to running a film through it! Enjoy your new purchase.
@@Samsung9alaxy Thank you, just to let you know I shot a film through it and the pictures turned out very nice and the lens is really good!!!
I have one Retina III c. for sale only the camera I have no use for it.