This was back when I had my old tires on the truck. In two wheel drive it spun a lot and I could only stall it up to 2k. With my new set up it doesn’t spin and I can stall up to 2,500 before the tires break loose. 4wd launch does it in 6 so I can imagine that with 2wd with the new set up it’s just a hair quicker.
The incredible Hemis cammed with an 8 speed auto. There’s a lot of different variables to making the truck quicker in the 0 to 60. Just changing to a smaller tire like he does I’m sure I can get in the low 5s. He also has more displacement and a more aggressive cam spec.
I’m not claiming anything. I’m just assuming that’s what it would be. Smaller tires do the same as regearing so it’s pretty logical that it would have a quicker time.
Cool video so after 2 years of driving how do you like your torque converter? Is it still hanging tough, and also did your gas mileage wind up going down when cruising normally with the upgraded torque converter or did it go up...? 👍🏁 Thanks
Dude really. 6.4 to 6.5 0-60 is not just ok. Thats fuckin awesome for a full weight truck and especially with all the extra weight. Thanks for the vidja. This just helped me make up my mind if i wanna get one or not. So im on jegs now
Great video man ! How has the transmission hold up and how many miles does it have currently have a 2013 Silverado long tube headers 93 tune and want to get it cammed fbo and was wondering how will the transmission hold up with the cam ?
How does this affect daily driving? In other words, would you do this in a Tahoe or Suburban that's not a sport truck but something you just want to improve the low end acceleration? Or does this only really affect doing brake launches?
@@JohnVesely I could really use some guidance. I'm putting a stage 3 master comp cam kit, the only long tube headers I could find that fit my 07 300C AWD 5.7, a 90mm throttle body and true header back straight pipe. So far all I have is a 180 tstat, cai, and Diablo tuned to 93 oct. I'm researching tq converters now because someone told me I would have to upgrade the tq converter with those mods. Someone said I would need to upgrade the timing chain also? What all do you think I would have to upgrade at the same time as those 3 mods?
I'm running a heavy 2010 ltz on 35s with a k&n setup and race muffler system with a tune and stall but if i run cheap fuel it doesn't run near as good but runs out really well
I have a 2017 Escalade with a 6.2L engine. Instead of a torque converter, I'm swapping my 3.23 gears to 4.56 gears. Then put lighter brake rotors, lighter tires.
Shouldn't really get hot because it's a lockup converter. They help with temperature. That's one of the things the tow mode does. Instead of it locking up in 4th or 5th at about 50mph it happens in 2nd at about 25mph. In tow mode it also raises the shift rpm 300 to 400rpm at part throttle in all gears. It helps keep the motor up in its power band. Slipping is what causes the heat. When it's locked there's no slipping so it runs cooler. Also from a dead stop if you have good traction or in 4WD. Try flashing the converter. Which is just going full throttle from an idle. It will hit harder and leave with more power.
I did notice my transmission running hotter. I do have an aftermarket tranny cooler on there to keep the temps down. During the winter I don’t ever worry about the temp, but if it’s stop and go traffic in the summer I really need to keep an eye on it.
The torque convertor allows more torque to be created. Horsepower is a function of torque over time. The looser convertor plus the stator pitch angle allows a higher multiplication of input torque to the transmission. That's why you feel the difference.
Another point that you didn't make is the increased RPM following a WOT shift which most people call the shift extension. Your RPM fell to ~4300-4400 after the 1-2 shift with the stock converter, but only fell to 4600-4700 with the aftermarket converter. Even though the more obvious benefit is quickly traversing the lower RPM in 1st gear, you also get a few hundred RPM benefit at each shift which also means more average power in higher gears also.
I have 2018 6.0 Chevy Silverado longbed what do I need to cam it ? All I need is Texas speed cam and a torque converter ? Isn’t there al lot of other brands for cam on Chevy Silverado trucks?
It locks up like the stock converter. Depending on the tune you can have it lock up whenever you want it to. But usually when your just cruising it will lock up like 45 mph and up.
Does your Chevy Silverado have the 5.3L Vortec V8 engine, with the 6 speed 6L80 transmission, or do you have an 8 speed automatic transmission? I see that your truck got up to 70MPH in 2nd gear. I have a Chevy Silverado too, and mines can't do 70MPH in 2nd gear, due to my low gear ratio.
So the tune you added doesn't count, right? Watch the 1-2 shift on both, watch when the rpm gauge hits 6 and stays there, take note when you watch it with the stall
Thank you for sharing..one question: on my 09 gmc sierra the RPMS shutter or 'idle' up and down as i am slowing down, for example as i slow down from 50mph, it shutters at around 30mph, then at 20mph, and one last time just before completely stopping...is this a bad torque converter or transmission issue?...or more like an engine idle issue like throttle body or similar engine issue?...thank you
What size engine? I'm trying to collect parts and such to swap a 4.8 LR4 into my 2005 Chevy Colorado, probably want to go with a 2300rpm stall or slightly higher.
Just cruising without lockup it doesn’t even go up to 2,500 unless your trying to accelerate. But it just locks up shortly after it shifts into overdrive and it feel like a stock converter after that
Got a question for you young man as I just purchased a 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche had to put a new engine in it yeah and got it running and got it going and the transmission is Shifting kind of like what you're talkin about within aftermarket torque converter is there any way to know for sure if it's an aftermarket torque converter when it shifts that shifts beautifully but likes a second gear it'll get us about 4,000 RPMs before it was shift unless I let off on it I'm going to worship and then it will ship transmission will shift sorry using talk-to-text
The stall speed is typically not something that is adjustable on torque converters. The only way to increase it is to install a torque converter built with a higher stall speed.
Some people saying trans tune or smaller tires. I wouldn't recommend it. The problem with this kind of theory is the higher the rev range your engine stays in the less reliable it has become. revs kill not torque. This is an awesome upgrade but if you go into smaller tires or changing diff sizes you will need to maintain a higher rpm range for similar sustained speeds and it may be out of your power range depending on the gear ratio in that transmission. I am sure you have an overdrive, probably in the .73 to .80 range. Keeping the rpms at a cool 3000 while doing 70 and that is ideal and inside your power band. range, not quite max but a good trade off considering the higher rpm torque converter...With all that being said. please please please keep that truck within your means. Id hate for you to lose your job because your truck took a dump due to the added load your transmission sees when it gets hit in the higher powerband range. This is where engineers actually have some sense. all the parts work together and when you do a little thing like that it in fact shortens the lifespan of other components. putting more strain on the trans, your axle, your diff, your u joints. your leaf springs or suspension. but its been 4 years so I'm going to assume you have it and its breaking parts or you got rid of it.
Still have the truck and it’s doing fine. It’s still my Daily driver. My trans temps don’t go over 180 degrees and rpm’s sit around 2k at 70mph. I have yet to have anything major give out but that’s just the risk with anything.
@It's Private they have no idea how fast a 6.5 second to 60 car is! All they dream about is buying a piece of shit vtec after graduating high school in 8 years.
Instead of putting in a hi stall converter you could just swap out your gear set in your diffs. That way you don't waste your trans and actually fix the issue you're dealing with.
What kind of power is your truck making? How big of a cam do you have? I have a +500 rpm stall converter from tci that I'm torn about installing. My engine should make killer torque from idle but an extra 500 rpms wouldn't hurt. I've got a turbo 400 trans right now. It's in a 1990 K2500 Silverado. It's got the RV/towing style low-stall converter. I think they call it 1300rpms on a stock 350 engine. Stock was 190hp@4000 and 300lb/ft. @ 2400. According to comp cams camquest software, I'm making north of 400hp @5500 and 475lb/ft @ 3500. The stock converter naturally stalls higher now with more torque. It rips the tires off if you punch the throttle from idle. Since it is so responsive, I'm not sure if I need the extra 500 rpm stall converter. Currently, the truck weighs 5700lbs and has 4.10 gears on skinny 245/75R16s. I'm upgrading the trans to a 4L80E. No overdrive and no lockup converter is horrible on the freeway! I'm turning 2500rpms at 55mph on 2 lane highways.... 80mph is a whole different level. At least the other cars know I'm there from my exhaust note singing proud. What are your thoughts?
@@JohnVesely I've got some 33x14.00-16s Boggers that I bolt on to play in the mud. Both of my 4l80e converters are a lock-up style. Stock and "TCI truckmaster Saturday night special"
@@JohnVeselyThat's in my stock turbo 400 transmission. The turbo 400 did not have provisions for lockup. Couple that with no overdrive and 4.10 gears and short tires... high cruising rpms. My rpms should drop 30-35% with a 4L80E converter. I think I'm going to go with the tci +500 rpm converter. I have plenty of low end torque but the extra 500 rpms will help a little. My peak torque is around 3500.. 1100 rpms higher than the stock engine. I'll still cruise at locked up rooms. When that converter locks up, it's like grabbing another gear.
I think I should’ve gotten a higher stall converter. My max torque is around 4,000 rpm. The TCI converter I have I’m able to change the internals to get a different stall speed, but I don’t feel like pulling it out again..
You know circle d has converter for about 650$ for the 6l80 trucks, I don’t if I would pay 60$ short of a grand for the TCI one just my opinion on the price. My 2011 gmc is in the shop getting a 2800 stall and a stage 2 cam installed right now and I have really used this videos to gauge what I’m doing. Honestly some pretty good information you ah e put together.
Yeah I know the tci is alittle expensive, I got a really good deal on it and only paid a quarter of the price of retail. But I’m glad I could help! The only reason I’m making these videos is because there weren’t any of these videos on UA-cam so I thought it would help out other people.
Stall converters are amazing for performance. Problem is what a turd they make a crew cab daily driver truck bellow 3K typically. Best bet for a dd is keep stock stall and just do smaller cam, headers, cai, and supporting mods with a custom tune. You start pushing the 4L60e or 6L80e to far with mods and now you have a real bill on your hands of transmission work.
2,600 is fine for daily use, it's definitely better than stock, but I think at least a 3,000 rpm stall would be good for that cam. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at some forums to get different perspectives.
Get a transmission cooler when installing a stall , a friend has something over 3500 stall not sure, ls2 08 Tahoe 225/232 tsp cam , 3.73 running 13.6 stock 20s wheels. I think he lunch at 2400 rpm bc needs better tires , so if you get a 3200 stall will be good for you.
Find where your cam starts its power band and go 500 rpm past it. If your cam has a power band starting at 3000 rpms then get a 3500 rpm stall convertor. You can tune the convertor lockup point so that it doesn't slip so much driving around.
So if I want a low end torque monster keep it at lower stall. New to transmissions and I'm getting a new one for my truck and I'm building the engine rn. I have a 91 7.5 L bored to 7.7L and a bigger cam. The c6 I have rn wont be able to handle the amount of torque I'm adding stock.
Jacob Henle see that’s what I’m want to know as well I’m building a lq4 for a c10 right now and I want the kinda throw you in the seat on command but I don’t want it falling in its face up top
All depends on the application. I do have another video briefly describing what a high stall converter does. But if you want something more in-depth then there’s a few other videos on UA-cam.
@@JohnVesely That can be hard to discern a couple of tenths. I once put a 9" converter in my Buick. Felt great, snatched the tire off the ground at launch but lost over .30 seconds and 3 mph in the quarter mile. To know for sure and with greatest accuracy, you have to run a baseline (before) and after runs at either a track or with a performance meter.
Well obviously, but I’m doing my best with what I’m working with. I don’t have a track near me, nor the money to buy a v-box. I averaged out the times and I know it’s not exact but the method works for now.
@@JohnVesely You could do it more accurately by playing the video in .50 or .25 time, then dividing your stopwatch result by 2 or 4. Still not perfect, but easier to be more exact.
What’s crazy is the new full cab zl1 with the 6.2 will do 0-60 in 6.4 seconds bone stock with 3 grown men in it. And that’s just my own shitty street testing.
Probably just anything over 2500+ but don’t go too high since the engine is stock. You’ll go too far into your power band and it will hurt performance.
6.5 second 0-60mph? Wow, that’s fast. That’s as quick as a dodge charger hemi. What engine work have you had done? I have a Sierra 5.3 crew cab and it runs in the 9’s 0-60.
John Vesely pretty sweet. I’m building a 95 f150 flareside right now. I have a 331 Stroker going in next week. I just ordered a FTI 2800-3200 stall. I am hoping it will work out. Watching your video gave me a little more piece of mind. Thanks
I have a lock up converter, so when I’m just cruising the converter locks up to where it doesn’t slip anymore. Also I installed a bigger tranny cooler so I have no over heating issue with the trans.
The answer to this comment. It that the torque converter locks up at 43 mph and unlocks at 33mph. No matter what the stall is. Cruising or full throttle above those speeds, the stall has no affect.
@@JohnVesely on my 2013 Charger RT all-wheel drive I can't even find a front diff set so I'm stuck with this sluggish 5-speed until I get a torque converter myself
TCI Torque Converter (2,800 stall): amzn.to/2Tl8eU3
Can I add a circle d torque converter to my stock 17 GMC Sierra 1500 or do I need to install a cam in order to have a torque converter
Is a 2800 stall is better than a 2500 stall for a 700 R4 Transmission
Can u tow with this stall
@@2WildRazn that would not be good
Does it hurt mog ?
"6.5 seconds isn't too bad"
Bro for a full-size truck, that's fast as hell!
nomadben right! Fucker is 3 tons and it’ll dust most shit on the road
The Denali has the 6.2 in it lol my truck only has the 5.3
This was back when I had my old tires on the truck. In two wheel drive it spun a lot and I could only stall it up to 2k. With my new set up it doesn’t spin and I can stall up to 2,500 before the tires break loose. 4wd launch does it in 6 so I can imagine that with 2wd with the new set up it’s just a hair quicker.
The incredible Hemis cammed with an 8 speed auto. There’s a lot of different variables to making the truck quicker in the 0 to 60. Just changing to a smaller tire like he does I’m sure I can get in the low 5s. He also has more displacement and a more aggressive cam spec.
I’m not claiming anything. I’m just assuming that’s what it would be. Smaller tires do the same as regearing so it’s pretty logical that it would have a quicker time.
By far the best upgrade I did. I had my transmission control module sent to texas speed for reprogramming.
-- Nice. This example explained TC stall speeds much better than a lot of other videos/articles!
Very interesting as a Silverado owner.thanks for sharing, interested in the evolution of your truck.
Smart video! Thanks from Georgia!!
Thanks for this video. Helped me out a lot!
Appreciate your taking the time to share your thoughts. I already subbed but will add a like too
Cool video so after 2 years of driving how do you like your torque converter? Is it still hanging tough, and also did your gas mileage wind up going down when cruising normally with the upgraded torque converter or did it go up...? 👍🏁
Thanks
thank you, definatly doing this
Bad ass video bro keep it up 👍 what I was looking to see
Dude really. 6.4 to 6.5 0-60 is not just ok. Thats fuckin awesome for a full weight truck and especially with all the extra weight. Thanks for the vidja. This just helped me make up my mind if i wanna get one or not. So im on jegs now
young Clint Eastwood!
You can put better rear end gears in it too which will help a big cam. Have to match cam to torque converter and differential gearing
Great video. Debating on new upgraded torque converter for womans sn95 2004 mustang v6! Thanks for good info
Is it just me or do these V8s sound good? Mine has stock exhaust and I like it.
Has anyone told you that you look like Chris Pratt the guy from guardians of the galaxy 😂
That guy funny ASF 😂😂
He looks like a Republican!
Le Subariste okay?
Holy crap he does lol
Hahahahahha
Nice vid buddy
Appreciate it man
Good video I been thinking about doing this mod in my car my cars peak torque is at 2600 rpm so a 2600 stall will be plenty.
Great video man ! How has the transmission hold up and how many miles does it have currently have a 2013 Silverado long tube headers 93 tune and want to get it cammed fbo and was wondering how will the transmission hold up with the cam ?
Would love to hear this answer. I'm sitting on the same thing.
You should do a side by side with before and after.
Really? How do you do that with only one truck?
@@dickmick5517 split screen the recordings lmao
How does this affect daily driving? In other words, would you do this in a Tahoe or Suburban that's not a sport truck but something you just want to improve the low end acceleration? Or does this only really affect doing brake launches?
Awesome job. That truck is quite fast for nearly stock 👍
The truck isn’t nearly stock lol.
@@JohnVesely I could really use some guidance. I'm putting a stage 3 master comp cam kit, the only long tube headers I could find that fit my 07 300C AWD 5.7, a 90mm throttle body and true header back straight pipe. So far all I have is a 180 tstat, cai, and Diablo tuned to 93 oct. I'm researching tq converters now because someone told me I would have to upgrade the tq converter with those mods. Someone said I would need to upgrade the timing chain also? What all do you think I would have to upgrade at the same time as those 3 mods?
Ibheard jack graves , he helped me with sending me a 02 extension for my 14
Nicely explained 👌
With corvette servos 🤘🏼
I getting 1 soon because I did the big cam
I'm running a heavy 2010 ltz on 35s with a k&n setup and race muffler system with a tune and stall but if i run cheap fuel it doesn't run near as good but runs out really well
I run a billet tci 3200 in my 2010. Gained 7 tenths in 8th mile. Definitely had to re tune.
And this year the trans overheats and shifts hard
I have a 2017 Escalade with a 6.2L engine. Instead of a torque converter, I'm swapping my 3.23 gears to 4.56 gears. Then put lighter brake rotors, lighter tires.
I need to get a convertor between my headers and 3 inch exhaust it's a dog off the line even with the maggie
Great video with legit facts and findings.
You didn’t method how much hotter the trans runs with a higher stall, you need to have a substantial trans cooler on there
I probably should’ve mentioned that in this video, but I do have other videos about it.
And a shift kit
My transmission is stock other than the torque converter and the tune
Shouldn't really get hot because it's a lockup converter. They help with temperature. That's one of the things the tow mode does. Instead of it locking up in 4th or 5th at about 50mph it happens in 2nd at about 25mph. In tow mode it also raises the shift rpm 300 to 400rpm at part throttle in all gears. It helps keep the motor up in its power band. Slipping is what causes the heat. When it's locked there's no slipping so it runs cooler.
Also from a dead stop if you have good traction or in 4WD. Try flashing the converter. Which is just going full throttle from an idle. It will hit harder and leave with more power.
I did notice my transmission running hotter. I do have an aftermarket tranny cooler on there to keep the temps down. During the winter I don’t ever worry about the temp, but if it’s stop and go traffic in the summer I really need to keep an eye on it.
The torque convertor allows more torque to be created. Horsepower is a function of torque over time. The looser convertor plus the stator pitch angle allows a higher multiplication of input torque to the transmission. That's why you feel the difference.
Bro... your truck is pretty damn quick.
Good vid
Another point that you didn't make is the increased RPM following a WOT shift which most people call the shift extension. Your RPM fell to ~4300-4400 after the 1-2 shift with the stock converter, but only fell to 4600-4700 with the aftermarket converter. Even though the more obvious benefit is quickly traversing the lower RPM in 1st gear, you also get a few hundred RPM benefit at each shift which also means more average power in higher gears also.
That also means it won’t hold the gear as long though
Was a good shift extension!
@Timothy Steinkraus im glad someone else noticed that too lol
I have 2018 6.0 Chevy Silverado longbed what do I need to cam it ? All I need is Texas speed cam and a torque converter ? Isn’t there al lot of other brands for cam on Chevy Silverado trucks?
HELL YEAH Man👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Does the new torque converter locks up on direct drive on highway cruising or so like the stock one?
It locks up like the stock converter. Depending on the tune you can have it lock up whenever you want it to. But usually when your just cruising it will lock up like 45 mph and up.
im getting a 36-3800 stall prototype.
Did you get it tuned after your install
Does your Chevy Silverado have the 5.3L Vortec V8 engine, with the 6 speed 6L80 transmission, or do you have an 8 speed automatic transmission? I see that your truck got up to 70MPH in 2nd gear. I have a Chevy Silverado too, and mines can't do 70MPH in 2nd gear, due to my low gear ratio.
So the tune you added doesn't count, right? Watch the 1-2 shift on both, watch when the rpm gauge hits 6 and stays there, take note when you watch it with the stall
Would you tell me more about this I am trying to upgrade torque converter on my 94 jeep cherokee
Great video keep it up
Do you need to have a big camshaft to put one of these in
Thank you for sharing..one question: on my 09 gmc sierra the RPMS shutter or 'idle' up and down as i am slowing down, for example as i slow down from 50mph, it shutters at around 30mph, then at 20mph, and one last time just before completely stopping...is this a bad torque converter or transmission issue?...or more like an engine idle issue like throttle body or similar engine issue?...thank you
Do u have a performance cam? I put a truck Norris cam in my 09 Silverado and it surges when decelerating. Was told a stall converter would solve that.
What size engine? I'm trying to collect parts and such to swap a 4.8 LR4 into my 2005 Chevy Colorado, probably want to go with a 2300rpm stall or slightly higher.
Do you need a tune when installing a performance stall
What’s all done to the truck besides the converter and tune? Is it a 5.3?
Yeah it’s a 5.3 and it’s also cammed and has longtubes
What is done to the truck other than a converter
First pull you had traction control on and it activated. That also changes a LOT!
Will this make a difference in a roll race?
Lmao the comment section is hotter than a spoon at Demi lavados 🤣😂🤣😂🔥
That 4l60 is going to take a shit faster now that the clutches are getting more power at a faster rate . Hopefully you upgrade the trans cooler.
Single disc or triple?
Did you notice a big difference in gas milage?
how is the lock up in over drive? do you have to turn the engine at 2500+ to get the converter to lock in?
Just cruising without lockup it doesn’t even go up to 2,500 unless your trying to accelerate. But it just locks up shortly after it shifts into overdrive and it feel like a stock converter after that
Got a question for you young man as I just purchased a 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche had to put a new engine in it yeah and got it running and got it going and the transmission is Shifting kind of like what you're talkin about within aftermarket torque converter is there any way to know for sure if it's an aftermarket torque converter when it shifts that shifts beautifully but likes a second gear it'll get us about 4,000 RPMs before it was shift unless I let off on it I'm going to worship and then it will ship transmission will shift sorry using talk-to-text
How to you adjust to stall? As in if you want your transmission to engage at a higher rpm
The stall speed is typically not something that is adjustable on torque converters. The only way to increase it is to install a torque converter built with a higher stall speed.
He looks constipated
That could’ve been a possibility
John Vesely 😂
Some prune juice helps
The horsepower got his butt hole puckered and his face is suffering
Bruh’s forehead is gonna stay that way if he doesnt stop makin that face...
Looking cam swap my 454 but seeing people comment "Needed stall torque converter aftercam swap" So I'm start with that 1st. 00 C3500 dually 454
Some people saying trans tune or smaller tires. I wouldn't recommend it. The problem with this kind of theory is the higher the rev range your engine stays in the less reliable it has become. revs kill not torque. This is an awesome upgrade but if you go into smaller tires or changing diff sizes you will need to maintain a higher rpm range for similar sustained speeds and it may be out of your power range depending on the gear ratio in that transmission. I am sure you have an overdrive, probably in the .73 to .80 range. Keeping the rpms at a cool 3000 while doing 70 and that is ideal and inside your power band. range, not quite max but a good trade off considering the higher rpm torque converter...With all that being said. please please please keep that truck within your means. Id hate for you to lose your job because your truck took a dump due to the added load your transmission sees when it gets hit in the higher powerband range. This is where engineers actually have some sense. all the parts work together and when you do a little thing like that it in fact shortens the lifespan of other components. putting more strain on the trans, your axle, your diff, your u joints. your leaf springs or suspension. but its been 4 years so I'm going to assume you have it and its breaking parts or you got rid of it.
Still have the truck and it’s doing fine. It’s still my Daily driver. My trans temps don’t go over 180 degrees and rpm’s sit around 2k at 70mph. I have yet to have anything major give out but that’s just the risk with anything.
6.5 isnt bad! In the 80s and 90s, 6.5 was supercar fast!
@It's Private they have no idea how fast a 6.5 second to 60 car is! All they dream about is buying a piece of shit vtec after graduating high school in 8 years.
@@BarkevshadianMy VTEC did less then 5 seconds while blowing the tires off 😓
What was the stock stall
Instead of putting in a hi stall converter you could just swap out your gear set in your diffs. That way you don't waste your trans and actually fix the issue you're dealing with.
What kind of power is your truck making? How big of a cam do you have? I have a +500 rpm stall converter from tci that I'm torn about installing. My engine should make killer torque from idle but an extra 500 rpms wouldn't hurt.
I've got a turbo 400 trans right now. It's in a 1990 K2500 Silverado. It's got the RV/towing style low-stall converter. I think they call it 1300rpms on a stock 350 engine. Stock was 190hp@4000 and 300lb/ft. @ 2400. According to comp cams camquest software, I'm making north of 400hp @5500 and 475lb/ft @ 3500. The stock converter naturally stalls higher now with more torque. It rips the tires off if you punch the throttle from idle. Since it is so responsive, I'm not sure if I need the extra 500 rpm stall converter. Currently, the truck weighs 5700lbs and has 4.10 gears on skinny 245/75R16s. I'm upgrading the trans to a 4L80E. No overdrive and no lockup converter is horrible on the freeway! I'm turning 2500rpms at 55mph on 2 lane highways.... 80mph is a whole different level. At least the other cars know I'm there from my exhaust note singing proud. What are your thoughts?
I’d recommend getting wider tires first then see if it still hooks. If it does then go with a lock up converter with the 4l80e.
@@JohnVesely I've got some 33x14.00-16s Boggers that I bolt on to play in the mud. Both of my 4l80e converters are a lock-up style. Stock and "TCI truckmaster Saturday night special"
Ohh okay I thought since you said you were turning 2500 on the highway that you didn’t have a lock up converter.
@@JohnVeselyThat's in my stock turbo 400 transmission. The turbo 400 did not have provisions for lockup. Couple that with no overdrive and 4.10 gears and short tires... high cruising rpms. My rpms should drop 30-35% with a 4L80E converter. I think I'm going to go with the tci +500 rpm converter. I have plenty of low end torque but the extra 500 rpms will help a little. My peak torque is around 3500.. 1100 rpms higher than the stock engine. I'll still cruise at locked up rooms. When that converter locks up, it's like grabbing another gear.
I think I should’ve gotten a higher stall converter. My max torque is around 4,000 rpm. The TCI converter I have I’m able to change the internals to get a different stall speed, but I don’t feel like pulling it out again..
You know circle d has converter for about 650$ for the 6l80 trucks, I don’t if I would pay 60$ short of a grand for the TCI one just my opinion on the price.
My 2011 gmc is in the shop getting a 2800 stall and a stage 2 cam installed right now and I have really used this videos to gauge what I’m doing. Honestly some pretty good information you ah e put together.
Yeah I know the tci is alittle expensive, I got a really good deal on it and only paid a quarter of the price of retail. But I’m glad I could help! The only reason I’m making these videos is because there weren’t any of these videos on UA-cam so I thought it would help out other people.
John Vesely makes sense bro, got my truck back and it runs good but has growing pains lol
Trans tuning required?
Why does it shift like that with the new converter?
Stall converters are amazing for performance. Problem is what a turd they make a crew cab daily driver truck bellow 3K typically. Best bet for a dd is keep stock stall and just do smaller cam, headers, cai, and supporting mods with a custom tune. You start pushing the 4L60e or 6L80e to far with mods and now you have a real bill on your hands of transmission work.
I got a daily ext cab. Tsp headers and 224/228 cam with stock converter. Any idea what size I should get? I also got 373s in the back
2,600 is fine for daily use, it's definitely better than stock, but I think at least a 3,000 rpm stall would be good for that cam. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at some forums to get different perspectives.
3200 yank
3200
Get a transmission cooler when installing a stall , a friend has something over 3500 stall not sure, ls2 08 Tahoe 225/232 tsp cam , 3.73 running 13.6 stock 20s wheels.
I think he lunch at 2400 rpm bc needs better tires , so if you get a 3200 stall will be good for you.
Find where your cam starts its power band and go 500 rpm past it. If your cam has a power band starting at 3000 rpms then get a 3500 rpm stall convertor. You can tune the convertor lockup point so that it doesn't slip so much driving around.
You running all this on a stock transmission? Or built?
Stock
Could I put this on my truck if I have headers and a tune
So if I want a low end torque monster keep it at lower stall. New to transmissions and I'm getting a new one for my truck and I'm building the engine rn. I have a 91 7.5 L bored to 7.7L and a bigger cam. The c6 I have rn wont be able to handle the amount of torque I'm adding stock.
Jacob Henle see that’s what I’m want to know as well I’m building a lq4 for a c10 right now and I want the kinda throw you in the seat on command but I don’t want it falling in its face up top
What cam do you have?
How has towing changed?
Does it still Lockup??
Does a high stall converter make the truck jerk?
Define jerk?
Is your truck stock cause I wanna get me a 2500 instead of a 1500
What LSA is the cam buddy?
114
best upgrade i did on my diesel was putting a billet low stall triple disc converter on it damn near feels like a manual
cam an exhaust next ?
What is the part # to that converter?
Part # 242972
@@JohnVesely Awesome! Thank you brother👍👍 keep them videos coming.
should have a lot better crawl ratio in four wheel drive also
Which is better 2500 or 2800 stall for transmission and what does it do
All depends on the application. I do have another video briefly describing what a high stall converter does. But if you want something more in-depth then there’s a few other videos on UA-cam.
What type of torque converter can I put on my 04 chevy tahoe 4.8 L lmk guys
will high stall damage the transmission on acceleration??
Nope just don’t let it get hot lol
What did you use to calculate your 0-60 times John?
A stop watch and the video
@@JohnVesely That can be hard to discern a couple of tenths. I once put a 9" converter in my Buick. Felt great, snatched the tire off the ground at launch but lost over .30 seconds and 3 mph in the quarter mile. To know for sure and with greatest accuracy, you have to run a baseline (before) and after runs at either a track or with a performance meter.
Well obviously, but I’m doing my best with what I’m working with. I don’t have a track near me, nor the money to buy a v-box. I averaged out the times and I know it’s not exact but the method works for now.
@@JohnVesely You could do it more accurately by playing the video in .50 or .25 time, then dividing your stopwatch result by 2 or 4. Still not perfect, but easier to be more exact.
What’s crazy is the new full cab zl1 with the 6.2 will do 0-60 in 6.4 seconds bone stock with 3 grown men in it. And that’s just my own shitty street testing.
The converter in the link is:
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
Now you need a shift kit and bigger trans cooler
Did you get a trans cooler?
Yes
I got a 02. Silverado 4.8 stock how can i choose a torque converter to get better power?
4l60e 373 33s i cannot get to do a dry burnout lol
Probably just anything over 2500+ but don’t go too high since the engine is stock. You’ll go too far into your power band and it will hurt performance.
6.5 second 0-60mph? Wow, that’s fast. That’s as quick as a dodge charger hemi. What engine work have you had done? I have a Sierra 5.3 crew cab and it runs in the 9’s 0-60.
It has a bigger cam, cold air intake, longtube headers, a custom tune and the tci torque converter
John Vesely pretty sweet. I’m building a 95 f150 flareside right now. I have a 331 Stroker going in next week. I just ordered a FTI 2800-3200 stall. I am hoping it will work out. Watching your video gave me a little more piece of mind. Thanks
Wtf lol a charger hemi doesnt run 6 5 it runs in the 5
What altitude are you in ? I have a 2012 5.3 crew cab and i average 7.2 seconds the best was 6.8 to 60
I’m at sea level
If your cruise rpm is below what the converter is meant for that converter is gonna get so hot it's gonna bake your trans
I have a lock up converter, so when I’m just cruising the converter locks up to where it doesn’t slip anymore. Also I installed a bigger tranny cooler so I have no over heating issue with the trans.
The answer to this comment. It that the torque converter locks up at 43 mph and unlocks at 33mph. No matter what the stall is. Cruising or full throttle above those speeds, the stall has no affect.
@@smokendatires that is true if you have a lock up converter. If you don't have a lockup converter than what I said is correct
That truck lowkey get the fuck on💨
Have you ever thought of changing the rear gearing?
I thought about it, but since the truck is 4wd I would have to buy 2 sets which would be more expensive..
Not to mention programming
@@JohnVesely on my 2013 Charger RT all-wheel drive I can't even find a front diff set so I'm stuck with this sluggish 5-speed until I get a torque converter myself
That doesn’t make any sense lol
@@JohnVesely What doesn't make sense? That I can't find a better gear set or that I need a higher stall converter? Just curious :)