Thanks for watching! Subscribe for weekly videos! More regular content from me in these places: 💌 newsletter: mwroll.com 🎞 instagram: instagram.com/mwroll 🪙 patreon: patreon.com/micaelwidell 🐦 twitter: twitter.com/micaelwidell 📸 my favorite macro lens: bit.ly/mwlaowa60 (best price + free shipping worldwide at that link :)
Myths Timestamp 0:35 Tripods is essential. 1:25 Autofocus is helpful. 3:02 Ring flashes. 4:21 Long working distance needed. 6:16 High shutter speed is needed.
You just saved my life.....figuratively speaking! ...... It's the first time I've heard someone say there is a 90% failure rate as far as hitting the focus is concerned. That is about my average and I was beginning to think there was something wrong with me, or, that there was something wrong with my Tamron 90mm 2.8 macro lens.
I have the Laowa 15mm. So I’m like 3 months into photography. I knew from the start that I wanted to do macro, it’s why I got into interchangeable lens photography. I was going to start out with a proper macro lens, but that wide angle was calling to me. Again total beginner but I am in love with that lens. I can get in close, capture details, but still show the surroundings. I recently got a pic of a spider on top of a flower. There are spitting bugs on the stem and the wide angle was able to capture it. The spider was hunting those bugs, I got the spider (subject), flower, and the environment too. My next lens is going to be something in the 2x or higher mag range.
Excellent video! Another one that I see, and one that I’m frequently told, is that you have to focus stack to shoot macro. There’s plenty of depth in a single frame if you learn how to control where it falls in a scene, and most of the critters I shoot are active. No way to focus stack them.
The Tamron 90mm f2.8 1:1 macro lens is very sharp when used with the Nikon D850 and I find the auto focus very helpful although not necessarily essential for macro photography when walking among the flowers.
Excellent video Micael. Very well presented. Every point is absolutely correct. Macro photography takes a lot of patience, and your method is the best way.
When I'm shooting macro without flash, the IBS in my OMD E-M5 II helps me shoot at low shutter speeds and ISO so I can maximize my depth of field with higher aperture settings. I like off-camera flash so I can control the light angle with flash in left hand and camera in right. So far, so good. Very helpful video!
I am very glad for your videos. I originally ordered MF12 2 piece flash kit from Godos + wireless trigger, but after doing a lot of research thanks to you I decided to go with the v860III flash and AK diffusor. I think this setup will get me some nice photos. God bless you!
Just received my diffuser and the Laowa 65mm today because of your recommendation. I haven’t had a chance to go out and shoot with it yet but it’s going to be an amazing combo. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. I'm by no means a pro or as experienced but I have found that if I want to take a midday sunlight photos of butterflies (when they are active) I prefer a super-tele zoom - maybe with a teleconverter to get that 0,6-0,7x. For me in that particular situation it makes a difference when I can stay that 1-1,5 meters away. But that is for this very specialized situation. At early morning, evening or cold overcast day it's easier to get close to butterflies. But for me there is something special and beatiful in the warm mid day/afternoon sunlight with butterflies.
Two weeks ago I received my Fujinon 80mm lens for macro photography and since then I went outside a few times to do macro photography and I'm quite happy with the result. Currently I'm using fixed settings for my aperture (mostly f/5.6) and shutter speed (1/125th of a second) and I put my ISO in auto mode. I'm now relying (too) much on the autofocus as the field you're working in at macro photography is really, really narrow.
@Micael Widell Autofocus IS helpful with the Sony Alpha 1, as it is fast and precise enough to do this effectively. I discovered this in Februari when I received this camera and used it on my 100-400mm GM with a x2.0 extender.
Hi Micael, Thank you for sharing this informative video again. Cool btw that you got the deer in your shot. I agree with your myths. I ones got me a ring flash, luckly a cheap one ;-). I don't use it very often I use my normal speedlight. Thank you again for this nice video.
Great advice and you have saved me a few hundred dollars as I was thinking of getting another macro lens with AF. Currently I have the Laowa 60mm on your recommendation. Really like the lens. I just have to practice and practice to get it right. 👍🏻
I just LOVE that you recommend not tripod!! I think the tripod is useful only for still subjects.On the other hand, and having eyesight problems (and a mostly blind eye) autofocus helps me a lot, so yes, I am using it a lot...snifff . In any case thanks a lot for your tips!!!!! ! By the way, I use the 90mm tamron lens with my canon full frame, and lately the great 80.mm from Fuji (with the xt4) now I am working with the Laowa , and I love it! , ONE detail, everyone tells me to use around 8 focal aperture, but I use all the times my 2.8 or 5 aperture. Don't know, but I am so used to it, that I really like the results. Best for you from Uruguay!!!
@@MicaelWidell thanks a lot for answering back :) as you said, it's a matter also of how we can get the image as well, depending on light and shadows,etc. Your channel is wonderful !
I bought a ring flash. I get barely acceptable results (for me) but many times I see the reflection of that flash. One was in the eyes of a jumping spider - creepy effect, ruined the really close shots. I like your setup and I'm investigating.
I use AF very often. I think if the eyes are clear of hairs, antenna etc it works well for me. When you get older and the eyes and body is failing it is a great benefit.
I was going to buy a Sigma 150 too, since i found that at the same price of a new 105. Now i can't decide, but i am stille going on with a reversed 28 (perhaps i'll add a small extension tube). THANKS!
Great video! One other question that I sometimes wonder about with my new flash is what to set the zoom on it to. I can't tell if it makes much difference, but lately I've set it to the highest setting - 200 mm, thinking it makes sense because I the subject is small and right in front of the lens. I also use a diffuser just like yours now, so I don't know if it really matters what my zoom setting is when I'm using one of those.
I don't think it makes a huge difference. But I recommend you to set it to the widest possible setting, because it basically decides how spread out your light becomes. You want it to be as spread out as possible, but not so much that it goes wider than the width of the diffuser.
Good video, nice and simple. Getting kind of tired with explaining these stuff to those "experts" in the field. Stabilisation also doesn't do much, same reason with AF not helping. Ring flashes work if you wanna be a dentist, lol.
@@Mikey1962 Works for what? 1:1 macro or basic close-ups? Do a controlled test yourself at 1:1, handhold. Take a large series of pics, maybe 20-50 with stabilisation on and AF, then no AF but stabilised (focus by moving camera back and forth), finally just do it all manually. Target can just be a ruler. Then note the number of in focus images, and ones without motion blur. Second test, do it on a live target, an insect. See for yourself how "works" is, you'd be surprised at the results given your beliefs. Just because it seemingly works for you and apparently "many others" doesn't mean it works at all really.
@@diatomsaus I have tried lots of different techniques like you have suggested and the AF and VR combo works best " for me". Perhaps its because im not as stable as I once was and my eye sight has literally seen better days. If im getting great focus on the eyes of tiny insects then why should I change to something that im not as good at. Manual focus clearly works for Micael and im assuming you as well but that sure is not the case for me personally. Just sayin is all.
@@Mikey1962 What I'm trying to get at in the importance of magnification. AF works well for "close-ups", any closer, 1:1? AF breaks down and so does stabilisation. This makes sense from a physics viewpoint as well. Movements exaggerated, drastic compensation needed. AF doessn't work in the sense that it.. well it does work, it's just that the hand holding it will throw everything out of focus. At 1:1, DOF is thin, tiny movements will screw up focus. Moreover... I take that as you've never compared the 2. Maybe AF and IS seems to work simply because you have really good technique. Maybe when you remove both, you get the same result... Anyhow, I guess you shouldn't try to fix something that's not broke, so I'm glad it works for you.
The Mieke 320 flash comes with a plastic diffuser that clips right onto the flash. Does that work as well as the Dorr type flat white sheet? It looks less cumbersome and awkward. Thanks!
I love your videos. But I have one comment, the autofocus is helpful! Not the autofocus itself, but having a lens that is capable of it makes it possible to do automated focus stacking (Even on A sony camera using imaging edge and B8Stack)
Good advice Micael and timely as I've been asked to help someone have a go at macro photography. How do you identify a jumping spider from all other spiders?
They have a very characteristic moving pattern and stance when you spot them from afar, and when you photograph them they have very uniquely large central eyes. Jumping spiders are compact in appearance and only around 0.5 cm long.
Thanks 🙏👍 Often have jumping spiders at my balcony in the summer, but only photgraphed one one time, and it was not the best shot, but this summer I will be ready 😉
Hi Micael, . Great beginner tutorial video. . I realize you gave everyone a small list of 5 myths. Unfortunately, one of the greatest myths (actually - a LIE), in “beginner macro,” I’ve recently been seeing over and over again, involves the promotion of: “YOU NEED,” or “YOU MUST,” buy/have/own - a dedicated macro, fixed focal length, or super fast lens, to get started in macro photography. This, of course, as you know, is utter crap on all levels. . No one needs, must have, must own, or must buy, a fixed lens, fast lens, or dedicated macro lens to shoot macro. That myth is just about selling expensive lenses and profit. Fixed focal length lenses rarely work when you want depth of field. Fixed lenses shoot at one focal length and nothing more. . Fast lenses, well, they’re pretty much useless if you want any part of the subject beyond 1-2mm in depth, to be in focus. I’m unaware of any macro photographers I’ve spoken to, shooting at a wide open aperture. They readily admit stopping down to f/5.6 to as much as f/16, within their lens parameters for tack-sharp, in focus macro images with a greater depth of field. . Highly expensive dedicated macro lenses are a rotten joke forced upon beginners by video content creators, special course leaders, photography class instructors, and others. Beginners NEED NONE of that to shoot and create magical images in Macro Photography. . Simple, metal (plastic tends to break too easily), extension tubes or glass diopters combined with normal lenses, telephoto lenses or zoom lenses with f-stops of 3.5 up to 32, are sufficient for any beginner, intermediate and many advanced and pro macro photographers. No one should be tricked into buying lenses costing thousands of dollars - especially beginners. . Thanks for the video. I agree, ring flashes really don’t help! I prefer off-camera flashes or mini LED lights mounted on small tripods (or extension arms), with diffusers and sometimes, colored filters (I use ordinary “color cellophane gift wrap” as filters). . ~Alexa Shaw, A Simple Photographer
But the ghastly truth for poor peeps (like me) is that using a genuine macro lens for this kind of outdoor work is always going to be better than trying to get by with a messy collection of lens-reversal mounts and extension tubes. My rather pathetic 'macro' kit can manage 1.5x magnification and cost a grand total of £28. I also have a Neewer NW-562 flash-gun (which I love) and a few homemade diffusers. Although I sometimes get some pleasing results, it's a real pain having to deal with lenses that no longer 'talk' to the camera [Nikon D3300 with the 18-55 AF-P kit lens]. A genuine macro lens lets you concentrate on finding good manual focus and not waste time opening and closing diaphragms by hand so you can see what the heck is going on... A half-press of the shutter handles all the tricky techie stuff for you. I did all my early photography back in the pre-digital film era, so I'm no stranger to setting up cameras and guessing settings and bracketing everything five times and wasting literally hundreds of expensive exposures on failed shots (as well as having to wait several days to see the developed, printed, disappointing results!). A digital camera is only helpful if it does some of the work for you. Without a genuine macro lens, it doesn't. I know it's perfectly possible to get amazingly good results with basic equipment, but I think most (if not all!) macro photographers will still use the best dedicated lens they can afford. It's just easier.
Hi Micael, I have a question about extension tubes. I have been considering buying extension tubes. When I was looking at the reviews on line most were negative, from poor quality to total garbage. One person even claimed the tubes shorted out the camera. Which would you recommend?
Yeah the ones you find cheaply on ebay are usually of very low quality. I had to buy three sets before I got one I was happy with. If you want higher quality, I would look in a professional camera store and try to buy a brand that you associate with quality.
I have noticed that most of the macro shot only focus on insects head and their body is blur. What if you set the aperture to f5 or F8 maybe the whole body will be in focus.
In most cases you need to set the aperture to an even higher value than 5 or 8 , just to get an insect's head in focus. If you're photographing 1:1 or higher, and you want the whole insect in focus, you'll probably need focus stacking.
Jumping spiders are awesome! Funny little critters. Sometimes they will jump at your lens because they see their reflection. First time scares the shit out of you, but you'll adapt to it and see it coming.
Tripod: Usually use tripod when I'm trying to focus stack, then it's nearly essential , but in some cases you can get a good stack with handhold shoot as well. Must get up early morning so the bugs don't move so much ;) It's easier to set up the tripod on a good surface and then try to move you subject to you tripod instead of trying to force your way towards your subject. But it will result in most of you subject flying or running away, but that whats make macro so fun... you have to work for it. Autofocus: Used it in the beginning, mostly because I moved from sport photography to macro. And in sport, the auto focus is a must ;) But had to move to manual focus thou to I started to use reverse ring and tubes and totally lost auto focus, but it's fitting as a glove now. The hardest part with manual focus is when you lay on the ground and have to move your whole body back and forth and try to see something thru you viewfinder. Ring Flashes: Usually gets a result of a more flatter image, can be good on some circumstances, but in most cases is looks boring. Longer working distance: Depends on the subject i guess, when I was trying to photograph some snakes, mostly Grass Snake, I want to have a longer working distance. Don't want to have them on my face ;) Tried to photograph a Vipera Berus one time, but then I used a plexiglas as well ;) They are quite fast those little buggers.
I noticed that you hold your diffuser sometimes, and at others it appears you have cut a hole in your diffuser and place it on your lens. Any reason you choose one or the other method?
crap.. I hope you are wrong regarding those ringflashes. I ordered the Laowa 100mm with a ringflash. Now i hope i don't need a tripod for making 'good sharp' shots. Guess, i'll figure it out soon. Using it on a Sony a7ii
Did you also try extension tubes? If I put a 10mm tube on a 24mm lense the visual outcome is VERY close to a dedicated 100mm macro lense that I own as well. ("Meike" seems to sell these rings for all big camera brands, I paid 18 Euro for a set of 10 & 16mm. Highly recommended.)
As far as Autofocus is concerned, I guess it's easier to say than macro photography isn't about focusing on something but about choosing the desired reproduction ration and then swinging around full body hoping do catch something. Sometimes I feel retarded when I'm out in a natural reserve and someone sees me.
Yepp I think this is the easiest method. When you have done enough macro photograpyh and had enough people ask you what you are doing, you tend to stop caring about other people passing by :)
@@MicaelWidell I already stopped caring about people in general :D I just prefer doing my macro photowalks completely alone in nature ;) Nice tipps anyway. Couldn't agree more on the ring flash one. It's amazing how many people still think that's a good solution. I'm still curios to know what you think about twin flashes setups though.
No comments or likes for the people who have a different opinion regarding auto focus Micael, I thought you were better than that. Stabilization works for me as well as autofocus,simple as that. Every shot in my macro gallery is hand held using autofocus and VR and I get results that im more than happy with and a very high keeper rate. Im starting to think that if your receiving lenses from manufactures that only make manual focus products then why would you want to promote auto focus, is that the case ? Others have also stated that autofocus works great for them and yet no comment or like for them either, seems like you have become quite biased in your opinions in this matter,sort of like your right and we are all wrong even though our photos show a different story. Manual focus works as dose autofocus in my case and many others as well so please stop being so biased toward it, just because it might not work for you dose not mean it wont work for everyone. Like one commenter said your doing the industry a great disservice by some of your beliefs. I see you spell your name Micael and I spell mine Michael, who is right you or me or is it possible that there can be various ways of spelling it, much like various ways to capture a subject with our cameras ?
Lol no need to be offended because I don’t share your opinion. I don’t always have time to read super long essay comments. If you use AF and like it - great for you. I am just sharing my opinion about the best way to do things. You don't need to agree or get offended if you don't. Also it is up to me what comments I put a heart on, usually it is the comments I read and like - simple as that.
Yes the comment might be long but then so is your video and I guess I don’t have the time to watch anymore long videos that are totally biased to one person’s opinion. Your no more right than I am,difference is im not biased like you seem to be,If we were all set in one way to do things then the world would sure be a different place. You could have said that autofocus and stabilization dose not work for you instead of implying that it is no good at all, thats just wrong info to be putting out there. Like I said in an earlier post your welcome to look over my macro shots and tell me what you think but then perhaps you wont because im on smugmug and not square space.
@@Mikey1962 If you don't like this content creator's FREE resources and entertainment - you can simply unsubscribe! He does not owe you. You should also learn the correct spelling of your/you're and does/dose before taking out your personal frustrations on a photographer you don't even know.
Myth: You have to use manual focus for macro photography. Autofocus is not designed for macro photography. You better let Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus know about this. I have used auto focus with all my cameras and macro lenses from the above manufacturers for years without a problem - going back to Canon EOS 10 and EOS 5 in the 1980's. I seldom set a lens to manual focus then sway about like a leaf in the wind trying to obtain focus.
Dude...I use AF all the time for macro. You guys constantly saying that AF can't be used has actually hurt the industry because camera/lens making have released macro lenses without AF and these lenses can't be used for cameras that have focus bracketing. Sad, sad, sad. Also, I know lots of other people who can use AF for macro (and that doesn't mean you have to use AF all the time, as once you get beyond 1:1, going towards 3:1, using AF gets hard, really hard. But at or near 1:1 it is quite easy. Maybe you need to go shoot some birds and learn how to use AF!!! huh?
Hehe I don't think I have that big of an impact on the manufacturers. There are still lots of AF macro lenses out there, I just happen to be one of the people who don't like it for high magnification macro photography.
Micael Widell Not just you, the myth that you can’t use AF for macro has been around a while, you just got the myth backwards. I have heard this since day one, but i am happy I ignore stuff i hear and just do my own thing.
Thanks for watching! Subscribe for weekly videos! More regular content from me in these places:
💌 newsletter: mwroll.com 🎞 instagram: instagram.com/mwroll
🪙 patreon: patreon.com/micaelwidell 🐦 twitter: twitter.com/micaelwidell
📸 my favorite macro lens: bit.ly/mwlaowa60 (best price + free shipping worldwide at that link :)
Myths Timestamp
0:35 Tripods is essential.
1:25 Autofocus is helpful.
3:02 Ring flashes.
4:21 Long working distance needed.
6:16 High shutter speed is needed.
You just saved my life.....figuratively speaking! ...... It's the first time I've heard someone say there is a 90% failure rate as far as hitting the focus is concerned. That is about my average and I was beginning to think there was something wrong with me, or, that there was something wrong with my Tamron 90mm 2.8 macro lens.
Haha, yes I felt it is important to talk about this so you get the right expectations :)
I have the Laowa 15mm. So I’m like 3 months into photography. I knew from the start that I wanted to do macro, it’s why I got into interchangeable lens photography. I was going to start out with a proper macro lens, but that wide angle was calling to me. Again total beginner but I am in love with that lens. I can get in close, capture details, but still show the surroundings. I recently got a pic of a spider on top of a flower. There are spitting bugs on the stem and the wide angle was able to capture it. The spider was hunting those bugs, I got the spider (subject), flower, and the environment too.
My next lens is going to be something in the 2x or higher mag range.
Excellent video! Another one that I see, and one that I’m frequently told, is that you have to focus stack to shoot macro. There’s plenty of depth in a single frame if you learn how to control where it falls in a scene, and most of the critters I shoot are active. No way to focus stack them.
The Tamron 90mm f2.8 1:1 macro lens is very sharp when used with the Nikon D850 and I find the auto focus very helpful although not necessarily essential for macro photography when walking among the flowers.
Excellent video Micael. Very well presented. Every point is absolutely correct. Macro photography takes a lot of patience, and your method is the best way.
I appreciate the way you explain things, thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. It was great to hear your output about macro photography. I will buy a flash and a diffuser this week.
When I'm shooting macro without flash, the IBS in my OMD E-M5 II helps me shoot at low shutter speeds and ISO so I can maximize my depth of field with higher aperture settings. I like off-camera flash so I can control the light angle with flash in left hand and camera in right. So far, so good.
Very helpful video!
Thank you, Michael! I appreciate your sharing such advanced macro knowledge and experience!
I am very glad for your videos. I originally ordered MF12 2 piece flash kit from Godos + wireless trigger, but after doing a lot of research thanks to you I decided to go with the v860III flash and AK diffusor. I think this setup will get me some nice photos. God bless you!
Just received my diffuser and the Laowa 65mm today because of your recommendation. I haven’t had a chance to go out and shoot with it yet but it’s going to be an amazing combo. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. I'm by no means a pro or as experienced but I have found that if I want to take a midday sunlight photos of butterflies (when they are active) I prefer a super-tele zoom - maybe with a teleconverter to get that 0,6-0,7x.
For me in that particular situation it makes a difference when I can stay that 1-1,5 meters away. But that is for this very specialized situation. At early morning, evening or cold overcast day it's easier to get close to butterflies. But for me there is something special and beatiful in the warm mid day/afternoon sunlight with butterflies.
Two weeks ago I received my Fujinon 80mm lens for macro photography and since then I went outside a few times to do macro photography and I'm quite happy with the result. Currently I'm using fixed settings for my aperture (mostly f/5.6) and shutter speed (1/125th of a second) and I put my ISO in auto mode. I'm now relying (too) much on the autofocus as the field you're working in at macro photography is really, really narrow.
I was getting the weird shadow around some of my subjects recently and its good to know why. Great video :)
I agree 😀
Hi Micael
Thank you soooo much for the beste Tipp , it's so helpful for me . I am looking every day your Video about the Marco
Glad you like them!
Great messages, great recommendations from a great photographer. Very inspiring! Thanks Micael
Great video. It helps me before I noe start with macro. Thanks sooo much!
Excellent video. Thanks for posting!!!
Really usefull (and made macro for longe time) and your photos are so beautiful, rly good job!
Happy to hear that!
@Micael Widell Autofocus IS helpful with the Sony Alpha 1, as it is fast and precise enough to do this effectively. I discovered this in Februari when I received this camera and used it on my 100-400mm GM with a x2.0 extender.
Great video with some very useful advice. I have to say I find Macro as one of the hardest Genre to do.
Hi Micael, Thank you for sharing this informative video again. Cool btw that you got the deer in your shot. I agree with your myths. I ones got me a ring flash, luckly a cheap one ;-). I don't use it very often I use my normal speedlight. Thank you again for this nice video.
Great advice and you have saved me a few hundred dollars as I was thinking of getting another macro lens with AF. Currently I have the Laowa 60mm on your recommendation. Really like the lens. I just have to practice and practice to get it right. 👍🏻
I just LOVE that you recommend not tripod!! I think the tripod is useful only for still subjects.On the other hand, and having eyesight problems (and a mostly blind eye) autofocus helps me a lot, so yes, I am using it a lot...snifff . In any case thanks a lot for your tips!!!!! ! By the way, I use the 90mm tamron lens with my canon full frame, and lately the great 80.mm from Fuji (with the xt4) now I am working with the Laowa , and I love it! , ONE detail, everyone tells me to use around 8 focal aperture, but I use all the times my 2.8 or 5 aperture. Don't know, but I am so used to it, that I really like the results. Best for you from Uruguay!!!
If you like the results of f/2.8 or f/5.6 then use that :) It also depends on the distance to the subject - I love f/2.8 for flowers and similar.
@@MicaelWidell thanks a lot for answering back :) as you said, it's a matter also of how we can get the image as well, depending on light and shadows,etc. Your channel is wonderful !
Thats why I follow your channel. No worry without the tools 👍
I bought a ring flash. I get barely acceptable results (for me) but many times I see the reflection of that flash. One was in the eyes of a jumping spider - creepy effect, ruined the really close shots. I like your setup and I'm investigating.
Great video as alway Micael. I completely agree with you.
I use AF very often. I think if the eyes are clear of hairs, antenna etc it works well for me. When you get older and the eyes and body is failing it is a great benefit.
I was going to buy a Sigma 150 too, since i found that at the same price of a new 105. Now i can't decide, but i am stille going on with a reversed 28 (perhaps i'll add a small extension tube).
THANKS!
Great video! One other question that I sometimes wonder about with my new flash is what to set the zoom on it to. I can't tell if it makes much difference, but lately I've set it to the highest setting - 200 mm, thinking it makes sense because I the subject is small and right in front of the lens. I also use a diffuser just like yours now, so I don't know if it really matters what my zoom setting is when I'm using one of those.
I don't think it makes a huge difference. But I recommend you to set it to the widest possible setting, because it basically decides how spread out your light becomes. You want it to be as spread out as possible, but not so much that it goes wider than the width of the diffuser.
This video, in my opinion, should be watched daily till it sinks in :)
Thanks, as always, for the informative and simple content.
This is so amazing, I can just use my old flash and get a small 65 mm macro lens with manual focus!
Definitely!
For the focus, I just set it to close, and then I just hold the trigger and move away. Sometimes I get lucky 😅
AF+Subject tracking (recognition)+Servo works perfect on moving bugs.
Good video, nice and simple. Getting kind of tired with explaining these stuff to those "experts" in the field.
Stabilisation also doesn't do much, same reason with AF not helping.
Ring flashes work if you wanna be a dentist, lol.
Yeah I forgot to bring up the stabilization one, that should definitely have been included in this list! :)
Macro Cosmos Microscopy I use stabilization every time as well as auto focus and the combo works for me without any issues as do many others.
@@Mikey1962 Works for what? 1:1 macro or basic close-ups? Do a controlled test yourself at 1:1, handhold. Take a large series of pics, maybe 20-50 with stabilisation on and AF, then no AF but stabilised (focus by moving camera back and forth), finally just do it all manually. Target can just be a ruler. Then note the number of in focus images, and ones without motion blur. Second test, do it on a live target, an insect. See for yourself how "works" is, you'd be surprised at the results given your beliefs.
Just because it seemingly works for you and apparently "many others" doesn't mean it works at all really.
@@diatomsaus I have tried lots of different techniques like you have suggested and the AF and VR combo works best " for me". Perhaps its because im not as stable as I once was and my eye sight has literally seen better days. If im getting great focus on the eyes of tiny insects then why should I change to something that im not as good at. Manual focus clearly works for Micael and im assuming you as well but that sure is not the case for me personally. Just sayin is all.
@@Mikey1962 What I'm trying to get at in the importance of magnification. AF works well for "close-ups", any closer, 1:1? AF breaks down and so does stabilisation. This makes sense from a physics viewpoint as well. Movements exaggerated, drastic compensation needed.
AF doessn't work in the sense that it.. well it does work, it's just that the hand holding it will throw everything out of focus. At 1:1, DOF is thin, tiny movements will screw up focus.
Moreover... I take that as you've never compared the 2. Maybe AF and IS seems to work simply because you have really good technique. Maybe when you remove both, you get the same result... Anyhow, I guess you shouldn't try to fix something that's not broke, so I'm glad it works for you.
Great video Michael, glad midsommar också
Detsamma :)
The Mieke 320 flash comes with a plastic diffuser that clips right onto the flash. Does that work as well as the Dorr type flat white sheet? It looks less cumbersome and awkward. Thanks!
I love your videos. But I have one comment, the autofocus is helpful! Not the autofocus itself, but having a lens that is capable of it makes it possible to do automated focus stacking (Even on A sony camera using imaging edge and B8Stack)
Tack för tipsen!
Ha en trevlig sommar!
Tack detsamma 🙂
Have you tried the Zeiss TOUIT 50mm f2.8 Lens? Trying to decide between that and the loawa 65mm…
How much space can you have on squarespace? And for what price?
Good advice Micael and timely as I've been asked to help someone have a go at macro photography.
How do you identify a jumping spider from all other spiders?
They have a very characteristic moving pattern and stance when you spot them from afar, and when you photograph them they have very uniquely large central eyes. Jumping spiders are compact in appearance and only around 0.5 cm long.
Thanks 🙏👍 Often have jumping spiders at my balcony in the summer, but only photgraphed one one time, and it was not the best shot, but this summer I will be ready 😉
Learned a lot from this video and could save money as well
With DSLR camera, macro is possible? What kind of lens
Yes of course. Buy one of these lenses: ua-cam.com/video/9jpGhQ6q8-U/v-deo.html
Bless you, i would never use a tripod. But then camera body stabilization is vital for me. Stupid question, camera has a flash. Why not use that
Lock on af is wonderous sometimes with auto min ss and iso.
Myth #4 tested. I bought Nikon 200mm f4 and later Canon 180mm neither of them suited my work. I had to get rid of them.
Thank you, nice video 👌
Hi Micael,
.
Great beginner tutorial video.
.
I realize you gave everyone a small list of 5 myths. Unfortunately, one of the greatest myths (actually - a LIE), in “beginner macro,” I’ve recently been seeing over and over again, involves the promotion of: “YOU NEED,” or “YOU MUST,” buy/have/own - a dedicated macro, fixed focal length, or super fast lens, to get started in macro photography. This, of course, as you know, is utter crap on all levels.
.
No one needs, must have, must own, or must buy, a fixed lens, fast lens, or dedicated macro lens to shoot macro. That myth is just about selling expensive lenses and profit. Fixed focal length lenses rarely work when you want depth of field. Fixed lenses shoot at one focal length and nothing more.
.
Fast lenses, well, they’re pretty much useless if you want any part of the subject beyond 1-2mm in depth, to be in focus. I’m unaware of any macro photographers I’ve spoken to, shooting at a wide open aperture. They readily admit stopping down to f/5.6 to as much as f/16, within their lens parameters for tack-sharp, in focus macro images with a greater depth of field.
.
Highly expensive dedicated macro lenses are a rotten joke forced upon beginners by video content creators, special course leaders, photography class instructors, and others. Beginners NEED NONE of that to shoot and create magical images in Macro Photography.
.
Simple, metal (plastic tends to break too easily), extension tubes or glass diopters combined with normal lenses, telephoto lenses or zoom lenses with f-stops of 3.5 up to 32, are sufficient for any beginner, intermediate and many advanced and pro macro photographers. No one should be tricked into buying lenses costing thousands of dollars - especially beginners.
.
Thanks for the video. I agree, ring flashes really don’t help! I prefer off-camera flashes or mini LED lights mounted on small tripods (or extension arms), with diffusers and sometimes, colored filters (I use ordinary “color cellophane gift wrap” as filters).
.
~Alexa Shaw, A Simple Photographer
Very informative Micael, thank you. My speedlight (Yongnuo) has a diffuser cap that goes on the end. Is that suitable in your opinion?
I tried that and I do not think it is enough - the light source is still too small and too far away from the subject.
What should i get ? Laowa 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5X or Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2x
Great Tips
Toujours intéressant mon ami !
Do you have any tips for making your hand less shaky? Yours look so still whereas mine are always quite shaky and it's hard to get focus
I have some tips in this video m.ua-cam.com/video/sCpYs0vqmE4/v-deo.html
Is it necessary to have a flash for macro photography?
Enjoying your insight, in The Bahamas :)
Have you used a Pringles diffuser?
yes ua-cam.com/video/dJYLALQns-U/v-deo.html
Thanks!
But the ghastly truth for poor peeps (like me) is that using a genuine macro lens for this kind of outdoor work is always going to be better than trying to get by with a messy collection of lens-reversal mounts and extension tubes.
My rather pathetic 'macro' kit can manage 1.5x magnification and cost a grand total of £28. I also have a Neewer NW-562 flash-gun (which I love) and a few homemade diffusers.
Although I sometimes get some pleasing results, it's a real pain having to deal with lenses that no longer 'talk' to the camera [Nikon D3300 with the 18-55 AF-P kit lens].
A genuine macro lens lets you concentrate on finding good manual focus and not waste time opening and closing diaphragms by hand so you can see what the heck is going on... A half-press of the shutter handles all the tricky techie stuff for you.
I did all my early photography back in the pre-digital film era, so I'm no stranger to setting up cameras and guessing settings and bracketing everything five times and wasting literally hundreds of expensive exposures on failed shots (as well as having to wait several days to see the developed, printed, disappointing results!). A digital camera is only helpful if it does some of the work for you.
Without a genuine macro lens, it doesn't.
I know it's perfectly possible to get amazingly good results with basic equipment, but I think most (if not all!) macro photographers will still use the best dedicated lens they can afford. It's just easier.
Hi Micael, I have a question about extension tubes. I have been considering buying extension tubes. When I was looking at the reviews on line most were negative, from poor quality to total garbage. One person even claimed the tubes shorted out the camera. Which would you recommend?
Yeah the ones you find cheaply on ebay are usually of very low quality. I had to buy three sets before I got one I was happy with. If you want higher quality, I would look in a professional camera store and try to buy a brand that you associate with quality.
@@MicaelWidell Thanks for the tip.
the tripod one had me dying
@@d.k.1394 understandable have a nice day
Very useful video
Disagree about the AF, but depends on the gear and of course you have to know it. Of course you must change the AF botton from the shutter botton.
I have noticed that most of the macro shot only focus on insects head and their body is blur. What if you set the aperture to f5 or F8 maybe the whole body will be in focus.
In most cases you need to set the aperture to an even higher value than 5 or 8 , just to get an insect's head in focus. If you're photographing 1:1 or higher, and you want the whole insect in focus, you'll probably need focus stacking.
Jumping spiders are awesome! Funny little critters.
Sometimes they will jump at your lens because they see their reflection. First time scares the shit out of you, but you'll adapt to it and see it coming.
Tripod: Usually use tripod when I'm trying to focus stack, then it's nearly essential
, but in some cases you can get a good stack with handhold shoot as well. Must get up early morning so the bugs don't move so much ;) It's easier to set up the tripod on a good surface and then try to move you subject to you tripod instead of trying to force your way towards your subject. But it will result in most of you subject flying or running away, but that whats make macro so fun... you have to work for it.
Autofocus:
Used it in the beginning, mostly because I moved from sport photography to macro. And in sport, the auto focus is a must ;) But had to move to manual focus thou to I started to use reverse ring and tubes and totally lost auto focus, but it's fitting as a glove now. The hardest part with manual focus is when you lay on the ground and have to move your whole body back and forth and try to see something thru you viewfinder.
Ring Flashes:
Usually gets a result of a more flatter image, can be good on some circumstances, but in most cases is looks boring.
Longer working distance:
Depends on the subject i guess, when I was trying to photograph some snakes, mostly Grass Snake, I want to have a longer working distance. Don't want to have them on my face ;) Tried to photograph a Vipera Berus one time, but then I used a plexiglas as well ;) They are quite fast those little buggers.
Just felt the urge to give your opinion?
Sure you dont need AF but it’s helpful if your camera has a focus stacking mode
I noticed that you hold your diffuser sometimes, and at others it appears you have cut a hole in your diffuser and place it on your lens. Any reason you choose one or the other method?
No, both methods give similar results. I just like trying different things.
Which flash do you use?
See my previous video
crap..
I hope you are wrong regarding those ringflashes.
I ordered the Laowa 100mm with a ringflash. Now i hope i don't need a tripod for making 'good sharp' shots. Guess, i'll figure it out soon.
Using it on a Sony a7ii
do you need a camera with a viewfinder ?. my m3 doesn't have a finder .
Not strictly necessary but makes it easier
@@MicaelWidell 👍
One more thing , its built-in flash sufficient , or I have to buy a used 430ex ii ?😊
@@heklik I would recommend an external flash as the built in one is often to weak to get the best results.
@@MicaelWidell ok thanks for your advice.
Yep, once you find your first jumping spider, you are instantly hooked. Know the feeling 😉
I wish I had any macro lens. I just reverse my normal lens. The focus line is so small.
Did you also try extension tubes? If I put a 10mm tube on a 24mm lense the visual outcome is VERY close to a dedicated 100mm macro lense that I own as well. ("Meike" seems to sell these rings for all big camera brands, I paid 18 Euro for a set of 10 & 16mm. Highly recommended.)
What happened to your sony and godox flash?
Nothing. I'm just using Fuji gear for macro now for a period.
yeah. ring flashes are best for lab work. collecting evidence. etc.
As far as Autofocus is concerned, I guess it's easier to say than macro photography isn't about focusing on something but about choosing the desired reproduction ration and then swinging around full body hoping do catch something. Sometimes I feel retarded when I'm out in a natural reserve and someone sees me.
Yepp I think this is the easiest method. When you have done enough macro photograpyh and had enough people ask you what you are doing, you tend to stop caring about other people passing by :)
@@MicaelWidell I already stopped caring about people in general :D I just prefer doing my macro photowalks completely alone in nature ;) Nice tipps anyway. Couldn't agree more on the ring flash one. It's amazing how many people still think that's a good solution. I'm still curios to know what you think about twin flashes setups though.
I'd rather have some refraction than 1/16 of an inch DOF
No comments or likes for the people who have a different opinion regarding auto focus Micael, I thought you were better than that. Stabilization works for me as well as autofocus,simple as that. Every shot in my macro gallery is hand held using autofocus and VR and I get results that im more than happy with and a very high keeper rate. Im starting to think that if your receiving lenses from manufactures that only make manual focus products then why would you want to promote auto focus, is that the case ? Others have also stated that autofocus works great for them and yet no comment or like for them either, seems like you have become quite biased in your opinions in this matter,sort of like your right and we are all wrong even though our photos show a different story. Manual focus works as dose autofocus in my case and many others as well so please stop being so biased toward it, just because it might not work for you dose not mean it wont work for everyone. Like one commenter said your doing the industry a great disservice by some of your beliefs. I see you spell your name Micael and I spell mine Michael, who is right you or me or is it possible that there can be various ways of spelling it, much like various ways to capture a subject with our cameras ?
Lol no need to be offended because I don’t share your opinion. I don’t always have time to read super long essay comments. If you use AF and like it - great for you. I am just sharing my opinion about the best way to do things. You don't need to agree or get offended if you don't. Also it is up to me what comments I put a heart on, usually it is the comments I read and like - simple as that.
Yes the comment might be long but then so is your video and I guess I don’t have the time to watch anymore long videos that are totally biased to one person’s opinion. Your no more right than I am,difference is im not biased like you seem to be,If we were all set in one way to do things then the world would sure be a different place. You could have said that autofocus and stabilization dose not work for you instead of implying that it is no good at all, thats just wrong info to be putting out there. Like I said in an earlier post your welcome to look over my macro shots and tell me what you think but then perhaps you wont because im on smugmug and not square space.
@@Mikey1962 you sound whiny af; chill out.
wah wah wah I don't agree with you wah wah wah.... grow up
@@Mikey1962 If you don't like this content creator's FREE resources and entertainment - you can simply unsubscribe! He does not owe you. You should also learn the correct spelling of your/you're and does/dose before taking out your personal frustrations on a photographer you don't even know.
I use the Nikon 18-55 with extension tubes and a Yongnuo diffuser flash. End of story.
Myth: You have to use manual focus for macro photography. Autofocus is not designed for macro photography. You better let Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus know about this. I have used auto focus with all my cameras and macro lenses from the above manufacturers for years without a problem - going back to Canon EOS 10 and EOS 5 in the 1980's. I seldom set a lens to manual focus then sway about like a leaf in the wind trying to obtain focus.
Are there any youtube photographers not sponsored by Squarespace?
Yo te llego a entender, pero podrias activar los subtitulos...
I have no control over what videos get subtitles or not, UA-cam decides that 😩
Just before tip #3, that's a spider eating a similar-sized spider?
Correct. A jumping spider eating a crab spider.
great .....
Sir,
Please put some videos on mobile macro
Thanks❤️
I disagree with you about the autofocus. My Canon R6 is fast enough with the RF 100mm IS USM f2.8
You need a tripod if you don't have a camera with in-body stabilisation
lol.
The tripod made me laugh ….sooooo many UA-cam videos with people setting up these elaborate situations to take the photo ….so unnecessary!!
in this video you are not using a that leans what are you posted By LAOWA !!! Which dos't feet to Fujifilm
Can you rephrase this? I don’t understand what you are trying to say.
Dude...I use AF all the time for macro. You guys constantly saying that AF can't be used has actually hurt the industry because camera/lens making have released macro lenses without AF and these lenses can't be used for cameras that have focus bracketing. Sad, sad, sad. Also, I know lots of other people who can use AF for macro (and that doesn't mean you have to use AF all the time, as once you get beyond 1:1, going towards 3:1, using AF gets hard, really hard. But at or near 1:1 it is quite easy. Maybe you need to go shoot some birds and learn how to use AF!!! huh?
Hehe I don't think I have that big of an impact on the manufacturers. There are still lots of AF macro lenses out there, I just happen to be one of the people who don't like it for high magnification macro photography.
Micael Widell Not just you, the myth that you can’t use AF for macro has been around a while, you just got the myth backwards. I have heard this since day one, but i am happy I ignore stuff i hear and just do my own thing.
actually big working distance is only important when you are photographing dragonflies or danselflies
Not really, you got to be patient but I find both of them pretty easy to photograph.