Lou Just WoW ! Incredible the detail,your knowledge of how,what,and why you do what you do and able to share this with the community so all can follow. It looks so easy but this is just how it looks until you start and start to verbalise the it's and out's of how to lay the aztek down and why you need to take the time to figure out where and how to ay the aztek down then it shows just how complicated it is to lay the aztek down. Brilliant work thank you for that tutorial on how to lay aztek on this kit.and it looks so good once they are down and the result after laying down the paint.
That is one very sturdy looking stand! I'm still crossing my fingers that some of these parts will be made available for us other 1/650 owners, like that new rear torpedo part and Sternbach decals...
Amazing work Lou , you need a table top laser to lay down a coordinate lines or alternatively project the images of the design down from above your table.
@@aztekdummy Where are you drawing the pattern from though? Just photo reference? And also do you cut out the pattern before putting the vinyl on the ship? I don't see how you avoid knife marks on the surface of the ship.🤔
@@aztekdummy I’ve watched the whole thing several times but I only get credit for watching it once and that isn’t fair!! I’m going to stand by the mail box!🖖😇
Hi lou, I've been thinking about your space issue so have you considered a Second hand ship container? Could make an excellent working space for your creative inclinations. Very much enjoying this kit build, she's a big one.
Words like "spectacular" and "magnificent" just don't do it anymore, my personal favorite, "bravura" still not good enough. So I am instituting, "WOOooooF!" And I hope that everyone can get on board with that. Unlike Phil's build, I feel I "know" your work space and, indeed, whole house by now. That makes viewing this coast build different. I reckon that this is roughly half the size of the real studio model as built by the Jein model shop. So this is as close as we're'a gonna get to seeing that work underway. Interesting that you try to preserve your so-called secrets of vinyl work-- HAH! Anyone who has watched you for 10 years as I have, will have picked up the dropped clues over all that time. And I pay attention. Plus I also work with material that needs an enormous amount of consideration for its limits: brass. ANYway... I thought the "wee-liant" was a mountain of fusswork. > weak snicker < What always irked me about the D was that they tried to break from a circular design for the saucer. So using an ellipse forced everyone to learn to speak "ellipse." Major/minor axes, two foci and dealing with the confusing --emanations, for lack of a better term -- of the depicted areas around the centroid that radiate to the perimeter. Me? I would'a bet the farm that the far easier way to go for this big baby was to force it to be symmetrical. Easier for everyone and at every stage. I think your only break is that while the template shapes are symmetrical-ish, and need to finessed one-by-one (shudder), that at least you have a starting point already done. My only observation is that, if you're protecting the base in one part (with rust prevention) you should take care of the other and do the underside too. WOOoooof!
Lou! Lou! I saw something in a video earlier that I just have to tell you about. Sure, you probably already know about them, and have a bevy of them socked away for a future project, but you never know. I was watching my man Kenji on Kenji’s Plastic Models, and he’s working on a rally car with working lights. Picture it: SMLED’s with no wires. They use a circle of copper, and when you surround the lights with the ring, they come on. He even demonstrated that they work just by holding the ring close to them, without their being in the ring. With all of your elaborate builds, I’d say you could use something like that.
Induction lighting is really useful for smaller scales as the induction effect (the ring is a big electro magnet basically) only works at such a distance
I find myself wondering what target age this model would have if it was an old AMT kit. Ages 7 and up? Retired engineer and up? Former ILM employee and up? Amazing work, Lou!
Lou as to the start of the video when you were talking about how you were going to lay the aztek down and add the pannel lines (in pencil) so you can accurately lay the aztek down. Question : was there a reason you didn't scribe the pannel lines into the saucer? Also is there a need to add the pannel lines in by scribing them in?
@@kurk1701a the kit is smooth. The company should have included scribed panel lines, but they didn't. I lack the proper tools and know how to do it myself. It's not the kit to practice on. The studio model had scribed panel lines.
One way to do it would be a method ILM used on some models which is to lay down tape where the gridlines would be, layer several coats of primer, and peel the tape so that the lines would then be recessed.
Hi Lou. Lots of progress this week. I was surprised to see you taking the masks off the windows - I thought you said that there was another light blue panel pass to go and then I was expecting a blending mist coat. I know that the underside of the stand won't be seen but leaving it unpainted does not seem up to your usual high standards (and it also offends my OCD! 😂) it still seems strange to me that half of the rooms on this ship seem to have windows in the floor 🤔. I was concerned to see that Phil had epoxied his saucer crossbar bolts onto the light blocking paint rather than directly on to the resin. Are you considering doing it differently? As always, looking forward to next week's thrilling installment! 👍😁
Amazing Lou, you have the patience of a glacier, never stopping just constantly moving ahead. ❤
Lou Just WoW ! Incredible the detail,your knowledge of how,what,and why you do what you do and able to share this with the community so all can follow.
It looks so easy but this is just how it looks until you start and start to verbalise the it's and out's of how to lay the aztek down and why you need to take the time to figure out where and how to ay the aztek down then it shows just how complicated it is to lay the aztek down.
Brilliant work thank you for that tutorial on how to lay aztek on this kit.and it looks so good once they are down and the result after laying down the paint.
Amazing. Excellent work, a model to treasure for the rest of a lifetime. o7
Your paint masks are Epic, Lou. Brilliant work on those. Looking so good this is.
This is looking so great. Hopefully i can manage to meet you this year at Telford. Missed you last year.
Beautiful 👍🏻🖖🏻
Great work, looking forward to seeing the stardrive on the stand.
That is really coming along nicely!
Looking fantastic from the Mask master it’s going to a great model when finished main problem will be finding some real estate for it lol
Lou I am still watching you do this grueling work on the Helios Enterprise D! I wish I could give you a hand too!
Keep it up! Good work.
I'd definitely paint mine in the green and blue of the series pilot version
Brilliant stuff……
The base would look AWESOME with the Star Trek Generations logo painted in gold on it.
we thought about that. the lcars box will be neat enough
Your coming back to blighty,nice one 😉👍
That is one very sturdy looking stand!
I'm still crossing my fingers that some of these parts will be made available for us other 1/650 owners, like that new rear torpedo part and Sternbach decals...
Keith at Cozmic Scale Models will be releasing the decals, i believe.
Ed "Big Daddy" Roth is standing at your door with the trophy, Lou.
Amazing work Lou , you need a table top laser to lay down a coordinate lines or alternatively project the images of the design down from above your table.
That would be cool!
@@aztekdummy
it’s called projection mapping and this is one way to do it ua-cam.com/video/l4vhXj-tPrs/v-deo.htmlsi=0Bu0QJ4BNDbDXQqC
Don't let Deanna Troi help you maneuver the saucer into position 😛
That's a nut Lou
Impressive amount of work! Bravo! Love those Aztek Masks on the saucer!!! Where do ya get em?😂
@@sprueVerse you can't have watched the whole thing yet. No skipping to the end
@@aztekdummy Where are you drawing the pattern from though? Just photo reference? And also do you cut out the pattern before putting the vinyl on the ship? I don't see how you avoid knife marks on the surface of the ship.🤔
Ancient Azteckian secret! Our local vocational school sportsball teams are called Aztecs. 🖖🏼
@@TrevorToonArt photoreference and my brain
@@aztekdummy I’ve watched the whole thing several times but I only get credit for watching it once and that isn’t fair!! I’m going to stand by the mail box!🖖😇
you need a rubber ring on the center hole so your power cord don't get cut by the metal
Hi lou, I've been thinking about your space issue so have you considered a Second hand ship container? Could make an excellent working space for your creative inclinations.
Very much enjoying this kit build, she's a big one.
more likely i'd move my bed and refrigerator into the container and turn the whole house into a display space.
Words like "spectacular" and "magnificent" just don't do it anymore, my personal favorite, "bravura" still not good enough. So I am instituting, "WOOooooF!" And I hope that everyone can get on board with that. Unlike Phil's build, I feel I "know" your work space and, indeed, whole house by now. That makes viewing this coast build different. I reckon that this is roughly half the size of the real studio model as built by the Jein model shop. So this is as close as we're'a gonna get to seeing that work underway.
Interesting that you try to preserve your so-called secrets of vinyl work-- HAH! Anyone who has watched you for 10 years as I have, will have picked up the dropped clues over all that time. And I pay attention. Plus I also work with material that needs an enormous amount of consideration for its limits: brass. ANYway... I thought the "wee-liant" was a mountain of fusswork. > weak snicker <
What always irked me about the D was that they tried to break from a circular design for the saucer. So using an ellipse forced everyone to learn to speak "ellipse." Major/minor axes, two foci and dealing with the confusing --emanations, for lack of a better term -- of the depicted areas around the centroid that radiate to the perimeter. Me? I would'a bet the farm that the far easier way to go for this big baby was to force it to be symmetrical. Easier for everyone and at every stage. I think your only break is that while the template shapes are symmetrical-ish, and need to finessed one-by-one (shudder), that at least you have a starting point already done.
My only observation is that, if you're protecting the base in one part (with rust prevention) you should take care of the other and do the underside too.
WOOoooof!
I agree. I'll be painting the underside this weekend.
Lou! Lou! I saw something in a video earlier that I just have to tell you about. Sure, you probably already know about them, and have a bevy of them socked away for a future project, but you never know. I was watching my man Kenji on Kenji’s Plastic Models, and he’s working on a rally car with working lights. Picture it: SMLED’s with no wires. They use a circle of copper, and when you surround the lights with the ring, they come on. He even demonstrated that they work just by holding the ring close to them, without their being in the ring. With all of your elaborate builds, I’d say you could use something like that.
Induction lighting is really useful for smaller scales as the induction effect (the ring is a big electro magnet basically) only works at such a distance
i'm eager to try those, just not on this build.
Are you going to use iridescent paint on the the aztecs
@@mattybkulas8200 no. There are none of those on the d
I find myself wondering what target age this model would have if it was an old AMT kit. Ages 7 and up? Retired engineer and up? Former ILM employee and up? Amazing work, Lou!
mental patient and up?
Lou as to the start of the video when you were talking about how you were going to lay the aztek down and add the pannel lines (in pencil) so you can accurately lay the aztek down.
Question : was there a reason you didn't scribe the pannel lines into the saucer?
Also is there a need to add the pannel lines in by scribing them in?
@@kurk1701a the kit is smooth. The company should have included scribed panel lines, but they didn't. I lack the proper tools and know how to do it myself. It's not the kit to practice on. The studio model had scribed panel lines.
@@aztekdummy thank you for taking the time to give an answer.thank you.
One way to do it would be a method ILM used on some models which is to lay down tape where the gridlines would be, layer several coats of primer, and peel the tape so that the lines would then be recessed.
Hi Lou. Lots of progress this week. I was surprised to see you taking the masks off the windows - I thought you said that there was another light blue panel pass to go and then I was expecting a blending mist coat. I know that the underside of the stand won't be seen but leaving it unpainted does not seem up to your usual high standards (and it also offends my OCD! 😂) it still seems strange to me that half of the rooms on this ship seem to have windows in the floor 🤔. I was concerned to see that Phil had epoxied his saucer crossbar bolts onto the light blocking paint rather than directly on to the resin. Are you considering doing it differently? As always, looking forward to next week's thrilling installment! 👍😁
I got impatient to see the lighting. I'll re-window and blend.
Will these aztec mask be available for sale?
@@susannorman7998 yes. The basic work has been done, I need to get it ready for public consumption 😁
wonder if the Playmate D had aztez and how close it is
no it didnt. it was just light gray
Glad all that French Blue is gone.