Thank you for all the great ideas! Doing my build I'm a 55 year old woman it's the most important decision I've made for years. I'm so happy and feel free for the first time in 28 years
I bought my mid high roof Ford Transit van three years ago. The former owner had installed fiberglass insulation and dark paneling to the walls and ceiling. There was also medal shelving along the left wall so I knew that that van wasn’t used for carrying heavy pallets. It was also equipped with a non slip rubber floor.
Hi Bob, I think this series is super popular because I had to click off about 10 commercials just now when trying to view it. Admittedly I've watched this video, and others in your series, multiple times but you should know that even when you hit the skip ad button, the ads won't skip. I have to exit out of UA-cam and come back to try, many times to view the video. I believe that means your series is a hit. Congratulations. Well done. I've certainly learned a lot from you and Terry by watching them and I hope you receive the financial compensation you deserve for providing such high value information. Best regards.
When working with fiberglass and short sleeve shirts this is a sure fire way to get fiberglass out of your skin. Get yourself some shaving cream, spray it on your arms and working in one direction rinse the shaving cream off in one direction away from you while rinsing with cool water. Warm water opens up your pores and creates more problems. Great video Bob, you by far have the greatest in detail info on RV life. Thank you.
Run a garden hose through that top rail/space with the cord inside. Then you can stuff the fiberglass insulation inside the air space. The wiring and stuff your dragging with the cord will disturb the insulation, but when your pulling through a garden hose, it will not disturb the insulation. Hope that made sense.
You're a Genius MARK!! I've been watching a lot of You Tube Videos, picking up ideas for my build. i'm planning to use a STEP VAN as my Home. I've learned a lot over this past year and am going to apply many of the things I have learned. Your idea (Though seemingly simple) is one of the Best and I will definitely be applying it throughout my build. I think I'll also be using this method to replace the cords in my clothes that have worked there way out: HOODIES SWEAT PANTS (TRAKI DAKS) CARGO PANTS And the like. Thank u mutchly :)
These DIY van videos have inspired me to become a nomad just like you! I’m 19 and preparing to start my life as a nomad, I plan to buy my van at the end of this year. ☺️ thank you so much!
Bob, It doesn't matter how you do the job, there will be a lot of different ways ( and opinions ) of how it can be done. I think you did a good job. Terry is great at doing vans and has helped many people with their vans, THANK YOU TERRY FOR ALL THE HELP YOU HAVE GIVEN SO MANY PEOPLE.
Duane 4 , I totally agree regarding opinions. I have a contact in the spray in insulation business and was just wondering how it compares to this application or any other. Thanks, chuck
Bob it's great to see you getting some help with your own van build. You are always helping others in there everyday life. Looking forward to see how your van turns out.
"The King of Half-Assed." Well, I am the undisputed "Queen of Half-Assed." I don't mean to be half-assed, I just work within my abilities, which started out pretty bad but got better. Glad you have good help Bob, and you can document and show people the details, instead of just speeding up and saying, "Ok, here it is, like my van?" This takes work, but it's worth it to the construction-challenged. Terry, great job!
I had no idea at all what he was talking about not do I have a van but I've watched his videos and its very interesting. Who knows I may have a van one day if I keep praying.
As a person who did a few vans and campers over I found you can get some good cardboard from the appliance cardboard boxes that they come in. Most appliance dealers or showrooms will gladly give them to you. Thanks for the videos
Hot water heater insulation or any kind of fiberglass insulation once it gets wet it holds the water. Best to use spray foam instead which easily carves off. It becomes a water sponge in the PNW October - June
1:28 .. that foam type Panel Bonding Adhesive, is actually structural .. that holds the outer body metal in place along with the spot welds on the edges. In my Step Van the outer sheet metal is aluminum and through riveted with no Panel Bonding Adhesive. If you cut off the edges like tihs it will cause no harm it's just overflow to make th install faster at the plant.
Mr. Bob, you are tremendous my friend! The more I watch your videos..the more I'm convinced to go FREEDOM! Man I live this lifestyle! I meant to say, I love this lifestyle
HUGE amount of work, I did my van two years ago in May, so the heat, and the fumes, plus all the crawling around on your knees..gets to be a pain...and then add in all the filming and editing.....man what a lot of work...thanks for doing this video...and at least you have some great help! BTW the 3M 77 spray is rated at 150 degrees, the 3M 80 is rated over 200 degrees...might be better for the ceiling insulation to have that margin for the desert conditions you and the 'tribe' are in occasionally.
Yes, this is a grueling job. I just spent the last two days following Bob's insulation plan on my own 2005 Chevy Express cargo van and I only got the base 1/2" layer of Polyiso adhered to the skin. I DO NOT recommend using 3M Super 77 for this job. The over-spray gets adhesive everywhere while choking you in the process and it barely sticks (and I followed the instructions to the letter). After doing 2 full sections with the Super 77 with miserable results I ended up switching to 3M 90, as recommended by BackRoadsVanner. I also decided to work with smaller pieces (4 pieces per section... about 15" x 12" pieces). I also recommend scoring the backside of each piece in roughly a 4" x 4" grid about 1/4" deep so the pieces of insulation can mold to the shape of the wall. This helped tremendously. Oh, and I used Great Stuff Big Gap spray foam to fill the hard-to-reach cracks and crevices. Worked like a charm!
No, I did not! Thank you for that. I'm hoping I'm done with the base layer so I shouldn't need to adhere anymore panels to the skin... assuming the first two sections with Super 77 don't detach completely. Wait... come to think of it I... haven't done the ceiling yet so this little trick of yours may come in handy. Thanks again!
Hey my friend! Nice to find your Channel! I am Patrick from Germany and right now I Life since 2 years in a Trailer in France! You rock buddy! Great Video
Tracing around the wheel hub you could make a pattern to cut the insulation with a few pieces of aluminium foil pressed over it a day worked around with your fingers to crease it. Then use that as pattern if you don't have the compass.
Wow!!! I am impressed beyond words. Bob, you do such a great job with your videos and give us such good info. You both get a kudos for all your hard work. Thank you & God bless!!
Bob Thank You and Terri for showing how to do this! These videos help alot of people. One other comment, I know there are trolls, but really do you all have to argue on this channel? He takes the time to record and edit this information then upload it to help out people that are looking for the info. Try giving a person a chance before you automatically think they are being an a$$hat. Maybe they are trying to contribute. I for one read the comments looking for additional info or to see if someone did something a bit different due to money issues or climate issues. Try being nice instead of attacking.
I'm slowly catching up to watch these van builds in sequence. Nice job with the insulation... much more than I thought would be needed but nice to know it can be done esp with the cardboard templates helping. Saw the finished van you're living in now and enjoyed seeing that finished one first. ...And have a safe trip east. :)
I love that Terry use the scribe/ scroll technique we use the same thing for our chicken coops and our horse sheds in Grandpa's machine shop when we made the buildings out of logs you get a good precise cut usually that way it's so much easier than trying to eyeball it great job Terry and Bob as usual great video bob looks like it is going to be perfect for you.. Blessed Be the tzu crew and me
I did learn a lot working with you Bob and patience is one thing I still have yet to learn...I'm a work in progress... Thanks again for allowing me assist you and I do hope things are working out well with the build. I hope you do a "things I would change" video sometimes in the future for the things that didn't work out so well....TL
I love watching Terry 'developing' patience. Sometimes I'm like him but as a woman I've learned not to be so anal. My house looks great on cleaning day only! My Dad taught me to look after myself in the shed and I could do most of the things I see you guys doing but its always good to watch and learn. Thanks to you both.
Traveling Terry Hi Terry, it has been great to see the work you and Bob did on the build of the van. May I ask why you were wearing black gloves when screwing in the paneling? thanks! Susan
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, but I was using a felt pen to mark the panels and didn't want to get any black marks on my fingers...not always a requirement...cheers.
Hi Bob ... First i have to say I love your videos. I make kettle corn poppers. They get very hot and it is (or was) difficult to insulate so the chef doesn't burn themselves on the hot metal. 4 years ago I discovered a very inexpensive and easy way to insulate the people popping from the hot metal. I saw it on This old house with Bob Vila... I use ceramic beads mixed in paint. One complete coat of any paint mixed with these beads gives you a amazing R29 of insulation. 2 complete coats is almost R60. This solves the mold moisture problem too. You can reach those cracks and crevices that regular insulation can't fill. I use it on my poppers I make and also my shop walls. My walls also have pink R19 covered with sheet rock with the R60 ceramic beads painted on top of it. So my Shop walls have a R rating of at least R90. Yes I know it's hard to believe but it is true and it works amazingly well. It does not do much for sound dampening so I would still do what you are doing in the video above, but your R rating would go off the charts in a van. Paint the inside the doors or any where you want...Imaging a mold free insulation in a van of R 70 +++. You could heat a van with your own body heat or a candle..The weak point is now the windows. --- Here's what I would do and will be doing next winter in my van when I redo it. ... I go buy any junk recycled paint at the home recycle center. My local store sells used paint for a buck a gallon. Just make sure you only mix latex with latex of enamel with enamel. I bought up all the white latex I needed and mixed them together in a 5 gallon bucket. I put 1cup of the ceramic powder/ beads per gallon, then mix well, paint on and walla R29 +++ If your painting the metal walls of a van that will be covered with wood or some other sub-straight then the color won't matter. Pink, black who cares if you are not going to see it. The paint is just the vehicle to apply the beads to the walls. If you want to know more you can via Face book (Mitch LaMoure) or I can give yo my phone number. Here's some videos that might help explain it more ... Oh and the website I buy my beads from. It's called Hy-tech, it was used on the Space shuttle and all NASA space craft to insulate them -- www.hytechsales.com/ ... ua-cam.com/video/FRq4UJLqLDI/v-deo.html -- ua-cam.com/video/9EuR4zeijfc/v-deo.html -- ua-cam.com/video/cDXMMnwt_NE/v-deo.html
Really get a lot from your videos, Bob. I'm planning my own egress from my house, into a home-made camper. Been looking at vans and have my eye on a chevy 3500 cut-away with a 15 foot box. I think it may have been a moving truck. Pretty low floor level. Keep on keeping on brother. You inspire, believe it or not.
WOW NICE SHOW INSULATING THE VAN.IM SO GLAD TO BE BACK MY PHONE WAS STOLEN SO I GOT ANOTHER ONE. I ALWAYS LOVE WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS. LEARNING SOMETHING EVERY DAY EXPANDING THE BRAIN CELLS. GOD BLESS BOB
Looks really nice BOB...i just did the same with 1" foam insulation for my camper truck shell, slept in it this weekend in San Diego...priceless and very comfy warm inside while outside was about 51degrees
I like that he glued the insulation to the steel, it is the way to go. I recommend leaving about a 1/2" gap around the edges of the insulation panel and filling that gap with spray foam to create a seal around the edges then tape all the seams where the insulation panels butt together. If you want to go the extra mile then you should consider filling the vertical ribs with spray foam. I am uncomfortable with the use of vapor barrier on more than one surface in the same wall system. this can trap humidity between the surfaces. I would recommend unfaced foam like plane white styrofoam on the interior wall surface because it breathes and won't trap moisture. As far as that goes I wouldn't use faced insulation at all in a van you don't need it and it could cause problems.
I like the idea of leaving a gap and filling it with spray foam then taping all the seams. For one thing, that makes it much easier because the cuts don't have to be so exact. Isn't the use of the faced insulation glued to the outside wall of the van still a good idea, to keep moisture and condensation from the cold exterior stll a good idea? I think so, that's what I'm going to do in my van.
Ok there’s the info about “foam” use, thanks! I hope to read correct side to face foil insulation in comments or assume they have it right in this application.
Thanks for sharing. Very creative, and smart to bring in other people with various experiences👍🏽. BTW, in future, put the metal part of the mask on your nose bridge, will likely fit better😊. Good job!
Great job guys! I really appreciate the added time and trouble it took to video the project as you went along. I can see a Chevy cargo van is a bit more uniform inside than my Ford cargo van. The Ford has window indents along with metal extending from the walls over the wheel wells. But as you pointed out, all vans have their curves and quirks to deal with. Thanks for a great video and I'll be looking forward to the next. 🚐💨
Nice to see someone else being thankful. I also really appreciate the effort he goes to with the camera. Guess that's why he's so well known. We love you Bob.
I want a Terry. I learned so much from you both. The idea of getting mold in your home is scary. So many YoutTubers have shown issues with mold in their Tiny House or Van Home. This is a great series. Thanks Bob.
This is an old video so you may never see my comment. I just have to say, Bob, that I love you for all you’ve taught me and helped my future dreams progress. I’m still a year or more away from joining the nomad family but hope to meet you some day to thank you in person.
Good solid build! More than good enough. Perfection is the enemy of good. Suggest running the parachute cord inside that flexible automotive conduit, and some 10 or 12AWG wiring, then fiberglass insulation will not be a problem in that channel.
I cut the panels to snugly pop in the large windows in my motorhome in the winter. and they fit behind the jack nife sofa out of sight and on the floor under the bed. they work great at keeping the cold from the windows out.
SAY WAIT!: A super cheap greatly overlooked free insulation material for what you might use to stuff into cavities in a van is used poly fill-pillow filling that you can fairly easily get for free from people's warn discarded sofa's are often found next to apartment dumpsters OR the Foam From the discarded Seat Cushions-New foam is Very expensive but this foam is FREE and should also sound deaden much! The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. To cut foam to desired size and shapes, I use a hack saw taken out of it's holder, holding the blade loose in hand and saw back and forth although it does not work as quick and precise as an electric meat knife, it works ok. Don't use fiberglass insulation that goes in house attics, I think the loose fibers would get into your lungs no matter what. Also note that the stuff in used sofa's have been covered and protected by the outer fabric so it's usually in pretty good shape. Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa. Of course you'd want to give it a quick close scan smell with your nose on it in case it has pet urine but really most apartment deter pets by either not allowing pets or they charge a lot to have them. Manufacturers make the poly basically from plastic bottles and it's fluffy and no one is allergic to it and it doesn't make you scratch and it doesn't absorb water and although it isn't as good of an insulation as foam, it does insulate by holding the air in it's fiber fluff pockets. Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?! What could be cheaper? Thanks for your videos!
if you want to control mold , try using expanding foam in the weir hollow hard to get too spaces. be careful though. because it expands more than you think and is very sticky and can move things if you dont allow for that. tI used spray foam for the entirety. To heck with panels and cutting which will not stop moisture /mold nearly as well as spray can foam.does. Use cear tubing to reach deep blind areas and have everything moved and prepped because once you start a can you can't stop until its empty.
You guys are doing a terrific job. Thanks for the info about the 1/2 inch thermo space while using reflex makes good sense. Regardless of your comment about doing half ass work. It looks great for the amount spent on materials. Great info and video coverage as always.
I learned a lot!! Leaving the parachute cord behind the wall is I learned that squeezing fiberglass together, basically renders it useless. (A MUST KNOW!) The
Have you considered spring expanding foam inside the holes of the ribs and also along the edges under the metal lips to fill gaps? I have used expanding foam in my home to seal up wholes where there is pipes coming through it to insulate as well as keep insects and rodents from coming in through them. You might try that and see it could also be used for sound insulation as well. There are different types. And they have adhesive in them so they stick to whatever you spray them too.
In my former life as a engraver we used both 77 and water based contact cement I preferred liquid contact much better control and less waste using foam brushes or rollers and saves you money by having more for other projects the valves on the cans are problematic and the propellant will run out before the glue is used up generally speaking
A quick way to do things ( well the cutting away of excess and cleanup after is not so quick lol ) that also removes airgaps where mold can grow due to condensation is use expanding foam in cans - first filling the wall ribs with that and cutting the excess when its cured, then plywood panels along the cabin length and injecting expanding foam behind it. Prime the metal surface by sanding coarsely it and degreasing so the foam can adhere well. Proper way to do this plenty of videos on youtube how to work with it I suspect but basically start at the bottom and move up. Having some injection holes along the wall helps fill consistently. Cut the excess foam away, finish the plywood trim around the edges and on to the next part of the build. You will end up with a great R value.
Caught you smiling, Bob. First time I've noticed in all your videos I've been watching a couple of years. Yes, it happened at about 32:14. You should do it more often. I'm too serious, too. Guess I need to do the same. You should clip that picture to use somewhere. Appreciate all that you do for the community.
Another good video Bob. I used spray foam to fill in all the ribs in my build. It worked great. The ribs on my Transit van were not as large as yous. I used a big roll bubble wrap for all those large gaps like you have up along the roof line. The bubble were 3/8 diameter. People can get big rolls of it a U-Line.
Great video,I bet you two had fun doing it . Plywood on floor as a base cuts down on holes to outside. Then covering and attaching is easier. Look forward to more vids, there great!
I.. will not use fiberglass insulation. Not the fluffy shedding stuff, anyways, with all the vibrations, no matter how much sealing I do, I worry that it will get into the air. And if not for myself, then for my dog.. Not something I would use. And of course it's what I picked up because I was in a hurry, so.. Gotta correct that one. Great video though! Now I know what kind I AM using. :D
Thanks for the video bud! Heading out to buy some insulation and a vent fan for my week old van now. Been living in it for about a week in the Inyo Forest in Cali just to get a feel for it, and now it's time to build. Enjoy the Kenai... I miss it! Hopefully I'll make it back to the SE next summer. Amalga better save me a bottle of gin, and Klondike better have a beer waiting for me.
Merci Bob for all this great info.. it is indeed hard to aim at a One véhicule… at each UA-cam discovering new rigs.. I still hope that I will find the right one perhaps here in VA where I live!
One good thing about insulating the floor is road noise. I've actually used insulation with a sticky side to insulate underneath my long haul tractor. This probably isn't an issue in your van, but it's very discernable in my class 8 truck. Love your vids, I'd like to retire to this lifestyle!
Spray foam seems like a great idea. I never considered the problem that it absorbs water and therefore the condensation against the metal can ruin it and cause mold. That's a good tip! A few questions... I was thinking... How about spray rubber? Would that work? Put down a coating of spray rubber (like a truck bedliner) as the first layer on all the metal. That way, the metal has a rubber coating first. Then, lay the insulation atop that. Think that would work to prevent sweating and mold? Also, have you ever used _Bora-Foam_ or _Foam-Control EPS with Perform Guard_ instead of _Polyiso_, as a way to prevent possible termite damage?
For drilling/screwing in paneling to ceiling, I would make templates indicating where the holes are in those ribs, so I wouldn't waste time drilling and hitting one of those holes. I would, also, still put in spray foam insulation into those ceiling ribs. Heat and cold ARE going to transfer.....I would want those ribs sealed up as much as the rest of the ceiling is.
Bob, can you explain in detail about the solar kit, especially the safety measures and risks when setting up. Thanks for your helpful and educational videos.
That glue stuff you scraped off was made to glue the skin of the van to the ribs (or skeleton) of the chassis. It does help minimize flexing and it can help with vibrations.
Bob, I hoped you previously lived in a really, really really extreme cold climate and built houses and then lived in several van much longer than almost anyone so that you know what you are doing and can pacify the lounge chair experts! Lol. Ignorance and laughter are two of life's best antidotes.
Great! Thank you for making and including all the details! Question: what happened to Part 2? I see the UA-cam screen for it, but it always defaults to Part 1 (????).
77 Spray has a warning about causing Neurological damage. It also releases with heat. Used it for years but will not use it anymore. Go with a spray foam insulation and get a professional to do it as it's tricky and you want it done correctly.
Always LOVE your videos! So informative, and you are so kind and compassionate to share your personal experiences with us all....I do have one personal thought. That "cheap" paneling looks great up there....The only thing that takes away from the sleek and bright look are all those rivets, or screws that were used to attach paneling to the ribs...Could you have simply tacked the panel just at the top and bottom? It's just personal preference. And I am just learning the in's and outs of building out a van ;0) Gotta love ya Bob! Thankx for everything you do.Safe Travels, and blessing to you.
Hi Bob, enjoy you vids and input :) and some of the others also. The bottom line on the van insulation debate is it's just not possible to be 100% efficient period. At least @ this time. You have barn doors or slider doors in a living space of approximately 40 square feet. That alone should raise eyebrows, even if you vacuum sealed off the rest of the vehicle perfection isn't happening. At some point common sense (Read $$$$$) enters the equation, and the realization the 100% just isn't going to happen. And it doesn't have to in order to be comfortable. Looking forward to the next vid and Regards from the Great White North
Possibly, but I have seen no evidence in my limited experience. A buddy used it in his Van conversion about 5 years ago and while the Van is only for Summer use, so far no crumbling( That can be seen ). He used good quality 3M stuff, so maybe that helps???
Pretty paneling ! I prefer bamboo, but I wonder how much more expensive bamboo paneling is. I'm jealous....I would LOVE to buy a newer van like Bob has done, no breakdown worries....and go to town rehab'g it into a home on wheels.
Thank you for all the great ideas! Doing my build I'm a 55 year old woman it's the most important decision I've made for years. I'm so happy and feel free for the first time in 28 years
"It would be done. It would work. It would be half-assed." 😂 A man after my own heart.
I bought my mid high roof Ford Transit van three years ago. The former owner had installed fiberglass insulation and dark paneling to the walls and ceiling. There was also medal shelving along the left wall so I knew that that van wasn’t used for carrying heavy pallets. It was also equipped with a non slip rubber floor.
Hi Bob, I think this series is super popular because I had to click off about 10 commercials just now when trying to view it. Admittedly I've watched this video, and others in your series, multiple times but you should know that even when you hit the skip ad button, the ads won't skip. I have to exit out of UA-cam and come back to try, many times to view the video. I believe that means your series is a hit. Congratulations. Well done. I've certainly learned a lot from you and Terry by watching them and I hope you receive the financial compensation you deserve for providing such high value information. Best regards.
When working with fiberglass and short sleeve shirts this is a sure fire way to get fiberglass out of your skin. Get yourself some shaving cream, spray it on your arms and working in one direction rinse the shaving cream off in one direction away from you while rinsing with cool water. Warm water opens up your pores and creates more problems. Great video Bob, you by far have the greatest in detail info on RV life. Thank you.
Run a garden hose through that top rail/space with the cord inside. Then you can stuff the fiberglass insulation inside the air space. The wiring and stuff your dragging with the cord will disturb the insulation, but when your pulling through a garden hose, it will not disturb the insulation. Hope that made sense.
Good idea! Garden hose, cable hose or PEX pipe?
I plan to lay tiles in my bathroom and I was worried about how to work around the toilet. You just saved my sanity! Thanks!
Nice solution!
Great idea! I imagine any hose or tube would do the trick, just use what you have laying around
You're a Genius MARK!!
I've been watching a lot of You Tube Videos, picking up ideas for my build.
i'm planning to use a STEP VAN as my Home.
I've learned a lot over this past year and am going to apply many of the
things I have learned.
Your idea (Though seemingly simple) is one of the Best and I will definitely
be applying it throughout my build.
I think I'll also be using this method to replace the cords in my clothes
that have worked there way out:
HOODIES
SWEAT PANTS (TRAKI DAKS)
CARGO PANTS
And the like.
Thank u mutchly :)
These DIY van videos have inspired me to become a nomad just like you! I’m 19 and preparing to start my life as a nomad, I plan to buy my van at the end of this year. ☺️ thank you so much!
How's it going?
How will you support yourself? Will you work remotely on a computer ?
Bob, It doesn't matter how you do the job, there will be a lot of different ways ( and opinions ) of how it can be done. I think you did a good job. Terry is great at doing vans and has helped many people with their vans, THANK YOU TERRY FOR ALL THE HELP YOU HAVE GIVEN SO MANY PEOPLE.
Duane 4
Duane 4 , I totally agree regarding opinions. I have a contact in the spray in insulation business and was just wondering how it compares to this application or any other. Thanks, chuck
Bob it's great to see you getting some help with your own van build. You are always helping others in there everyday life. Looking forward to see how your van turns out.
"The King of Half-Assed." Well, I am the undisputed "Queen of Half-Assed." I don't mean to be half-assed, I just work within my abilities, which started out pretty bad but got better.
Glad you have good help Bob, and you can document and show people the details, instead of just speeding up and saying, "Ok, here it is, like my van?" This takes work, but it's worth it to the construction-challenged.
Terry, great job!
I had no idea at all what he was talking about not do I have a van but I've watched his videos and its very interesting. Who knows I may have a van one day if I keep praying.
As a person who did a few vans and campers over I found you can get some good cardboard from the appliance cardboard boxes that they come in. Most appliance dealers or showrooms will gladly give them to you. Thanks for the videos
love how you ramble and your blatant honesty of your flaws! I'm much the same!
Hot water heater insulation or any kind of fiberglass insulation once it gets wet it holds the water. Best to use spray foam instead which easily carves off. It becomes a water sponge in the PNW October - June
1:28 .. that foam type Panel Bonding Adhesive, is actually structural .. that holds the outer body metal in place along with the spot welds on the edges. In my Step Van the outer sheet metal is aluminum and through riveted with no Panel Bonding Adhesive.
If you cut off the edges like tihs it will cause no harm it's just overflow to make th install faster at the plant.
Wow, I'm exhausted just from watching!
Mr. Bob, you are tremendous my friend! The more I watch your videos..the more I'm convinced to go FREEDOM! Man I live this lifestyle! I meant to say, I love this lifestyle
HUGE amount of work, I did my van two years ago in May, so the heat, and the fumes, plus all the crawling around on your knees..gets to be a pain...and then add in all the filming and editing.....man what a lot of work...thanks for doing this video...and at least you have some great help!
BTW the 3M 77 spray is rated at 150 degrees, the 3M 80 is rated over 200 degrees...might be better for the ceiling insulation to have that margin for the desert conditions you and the 'tribe' are in occasionally.
Thanks for the info tx2sturgis, you know why it took so long for me to post the videos. ;)
CheapRVliving -- taking notes. excellent video.
Yes, this is a grueling job. I just spent the last two days following Bob's insulation plan on my own 2005 Chevy Express cargo van and I only got the base 1/2" layer of Polyiso adhered to the skin. I DO NOT recommend using 3M Super 77 for this job. The over-spray gets adhesive everywhere while choking you in the process and it barely sticks (and I followed the instructions to the letter). After doing 2 full sections with the Super 77 with miserable results I ended up switching to 3M 90, as recommended by BackRoadsVanner. I also decided to work with smaller pieces (4 pieces per section... about 15" x 12" pieces). I also recommend scoring the backside of each piece in roughly a 4" x 4" grid about 1/4" deep so the pieces of insulation can mold to the shape of the wall. This helped tremendously. Oh, and I used Great Stuff Big Gap spray foam to fill the hard-to-reach cracks and crevices. Worked like a charm!
Cool, did you know that the spray foam will also work as an adhesive for the panels, so if you run out, you have a back up plan.
No, I did not! Thank you for that. I'm hoping I'm done with the base layer so I shouldn't need to adhere anymore panels to the skin... assuming the first two sections with Super 77 don't detach completely. Wait... come to think of it I... haven't done the ceiling yet so this little trick of yours may come in handy. Thanks again!
No Problems! Just CHALLENGES!
No fails... just steps it takes to be successful!
Persistence WINS
Hey my friend! Nice to find your Channel! I am Patrick from Germany and right now I Life since 2 years in a Trailer in France! You rock buddy! Great Video
Tracing around the wheel hub you could make a pattern to cut the insulation with a few pieces of aluminium foil pressed over it a day worked around with your fingers to crease it. Then use that as pattern if you don't have the compass.
Sweet Peas Pleasw read the comment I made to Mark W above. It was meant for you but Im an old woman and I hit the wrong button. Lol!
This is the most informative video on the application of insulation I have Ever seen! Thank you, both! 🔩🔩🔩
I think you need to see Greg Virgoe's van build.
@@dereckrandell2458 Thanks for the lead Derek :)
I'm checking his stuff out now.
Lots to look at!
@@dereckrandell2458 Exactly! Greg Virgoe's channel and explanation is on a whole other level. FACT!
Wow!!! I am impressed beyond words. Bob, you do such a great job with your videos and give us such good info. You both get a kudos for all your hard work. Thank you & God bless!!
Your paneling lines match so well! Great job both of you! Great minds! Thanks to both of you.
9:08 My though with the ribs and small spaces and small gaps to just use spray foam there,
Thanks for all of your hard work, Bob! I have just shared this with my Horse Trailer Conversion group on FB. This should help a lot of folks out!
Wow, this video is so amazing. Saves money as opposed to buying an overpriced RV.thanx for knowledge.
Bob Thank You and Terri for showing how to do this! These videos help alot of people. One other comment, I know there are trolls, but really do you all have to argue on this channel? He takes the time to record and edit this information then upload it to help out people that are looking for the info. Try giving a person a chance before you automatically think they are being an a$$hat. Maybe they are trying to contribute. I for one read the comments looking for additional info or to see if someone did something a bit different due to money issues or climate issues. Try being nice instead of attacking.
👍I I I did the same on my sailing boat in 2015, it works perfect!!! In the winter in the Netherlands I keep my boat nice and warm.
I'm slowly catching up to watch these van builds in sequence. Nice job with the insulation... much more than I thought would be needed but nice to know it can be done esp with the cardboard templates helping. Saw the finished van you're living in now and enjoyed seeing that finished one first. ...And have a safe trip east. :)
You guys are going to save me so much time and frustration this week. Thank you!
Thanks for this video--will come in handy. Was imagining what it would be like to skip the glue when you mentioned mold--good point.
I love that Terry use the scribe/ scroll technique we use the same thing for our chicken coops and our horse sheds in Grandpa's machine shop when we made the buildings out of logs you get a good precise cut usually that way it's so much easier than trying to eyeball it great job Terry and Bob as usual great video bob looks like it is going to be perfect for you.. Blessed Be the tzu crew and me
Terry certainly knows what he's doing!
I did learn a lot working with you Bob and patience is one thing I still have yet to learn...I'm a work in progress... Thanks again for allowing me assist you and I do hope things are working out well with the build. I hope you do a "things I would change" video sometimes in the future for the things that didn't work out so well....TL
I love watching Terry 'developing' patience. Sometimes I'm like him but as a woman I've learned not to be so anal. My house looks great on cleaning day only! My Dad taught me to look after myself in the shed and I could do most of the things I see you guys doing but its always good to watch and learn. Thanks to you both.
Traveling Terry
Hi Terry, it has been great to see the work you and Bob did on the build of the van. May I ask why you were wearing black gloves when screwing in the paneling?
thanks!
Susan
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, but I was using a felt pen to mark the panels and didn't want to get any black marks on my fingers...not always a requirement...cheers.
Thank you so much Bob (and Terry) for everything in this video.. even if I am almost two years late.
That’s the beauty of UA-cam. It’s there forever. I just watched it today and gained slot of knowledge for my build in hopefully two years.
Hi Bob ... First i have to say I love your videos. I make kettle corn poppers. They get very hot and it is (or was) difficult to insulate so the chef doesn't burn themselves on the hot metal. 4 years ago I discovered a very inexpensive and easy way to insulate the people popping from the hot metal. I saw it on This old house with Bob Vila...
I use ceramic beads mixed in paint. One complete coat of any paint mixed with these beads gives you a amazing R29 of insulation. 2 complete coats is almost R60. This solves the mold moisture problem too. You can reach those cracks and crevices that regular insulation can't fill. I use it on my poppers I make and also my shop walls. My walls also have pink R19 covered with sheet rock with the R60 ceramic beads painted on top of it. So my Shop walls have a R rating of at least R90. Yes I know it's hard to believe but it is true and it works amazingly well. It does not do much for sound dampening so I would still do what you are doing in the video above, but your R rating would go off the charts in a van. Paint the inside the doors or any where you want...Imaging a mold free insulation in a van of R 70 +++. You could heat a van with your own body heat or a candle..The weak point is now the windows. ---
Here's what I would do and will be doing next winter in my van when I redo it. ... I go buy any junk recycled paint at the home recycle center. My local store sells used paint for a buck a gallon. Just make sure you only mix latex with latex of enamel with enamel. I bought up all the white latex I needed and mixed them together in a 5 gallon bucket. I put 1cup of the ceramic powder/ beads per gallon, then mix well, paint on and walla R29 +++
If your painting the metal walls of a van that will be covered with wood or some other sub-straight then the color won't matter. Pink, black who cares if you are not going to see it. The paint is just the vehicle to apply the beads to the walls.
If you want to know more you can via Face book (Mitch LaMoure) or I can give yo my phone number. Here's some videos that might help explain it more ... Oh and the website I buy my beads from. It's called Hy-tech, it was used on the Space shuttle and all NASA space craft to insulate them -- www.hytechsales.com/ ... ua-cam.com/video/FRq4UJLqLDI/v-deo.html -- ua-cam.com/video/9EuR4zeijfc/v-deo.html -- ua-cam.com/video/cDXMMnwt_NE/v-deo.html
Really get a lot from your videos, Bob. I'm planning my own egress from my house, into a home-made camper. Been looking at vans and have my eye on a chevy 3500 cut-away with a 15 foot box. I think it may have been a moving truck. Pretty low floor level. Keep on keeping on brother. You inspire, believe it or not.
WOW NICE SHOW INSULATING THE VAN.IM SO GLAD TO BE BACK MY PHONE WAS STOLEN SO I GOT ANOTHER ONE. I ALWAYS LOVE WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS. LEARNING SOMETHING EVERY DAY EXPANDING THE BRAIN CELLS. GOD BLESS BOB
Looks really nice BOB...i just did the same with 1" foam insulation for my camper truck shell, slept in it this weekend in San Diego...priceless and very comfy warm inside while outside was about 51degrees
I like that he glued the insulation to the steel, it is the way to go. I recommend leaving about a 1/2" gap around the edges of the insulation panel and filling that gap with spray foam to create a seal around the edges then tape all the seams where the insulation panels butt together. If you want to go the extra mile then you should consider filling the vertical ribs with spray foam. I am uncomfortable with the use of vapor barrier on more than one surface in the same wall system. this can trap humidity between the surfaces. I would recommend unfaced foam like plane white styrofoam on the interior wall surface because it breathes and won't trap moisture. As far as that goes I wouldn't use faced insulation at all in a van you don't need it and it could cause problems.
I like the idea of leaving a gap and filling it with spray foam then taping all the seams. For one thing, that makes it much easier because the cuts don't have to be so exact. Isn't the use of the faced insulation glued to the outside wall of the van still a good idea, to keep moisture and condensation from the cold exterior stll a good idea? I think so, that's what I'm going to do in my van.
Ok there’s the info about “foam” use, thanks! I hope to read correct side to face foil insulation in comments or assume they have it right in this application.
Makes sense Terry. The van body is the vapor barrier. You Sir have saved me $$ in the near future. Tosses all foil-backed ideas out the window.
Thanks for sharing. Very creative, and smart to bring in other people with various experiences👍🏽.
BTW, in future, put the metal part of the mask on your nose bridge, will likely fit better😊. Good job!
Great job guys! I really appreciate the added time and trouble it took to video the project as you went along. I can see a Chevy cargo van is a bit more uniform inside than my Ford cargo van. The Ford has window indents along with metal extending from the walls over the wheel wells. But as you pointed out, all vans have their curves and quirks to deal with. Thanks for a great video and I'll be looking forward to the next. 🚐💨
Nice to see someone else being thankful. I also really appreciate the effort he goes to with the camera. Guess that's why he's so well known. We love you Bob.
I want a Terry. I learned so much from you both. The idea of getting mold in your home is scary. So many YoutTubers have shown issues with mold in their Tiny House or Van Home. This is a great series. Thanks Bob.
Great instructional video. Lots of tips for someone who is a newbie when it comes to insulating.
To make me sound better I tell people that I do things half slow...... Great video as usual Bob.
Thanks Bob. Learning this here for my first van build 2019. Very much appreciated bro!
This is an old video so you may never see my comment. I just have to say, Bob, that I love you for all you’ve taught me and helped my future dreams progress. I’m still a year or more away from joining the nomad family but hope to meet you some day to thank you in person.
Wish I had my own Terry!
Good solid build! More than good enough. Perfection is the enemy of good. Suggest running the parachute cord inside that flexible automotive conduit, and some 10 or 12AWG wiring, then fiberglass insulation will not be a problem in that channel.
That was great! Thanks for all the work in showing us how to put insulation in.
I cut the panels to snugly pop in the large windows in my motorhome in the winter. and they fit behind the jack nife sofa out of sight and on the floor under the bed. they work great at keeping the cold from the windows out.
Thanks so much Bob & Terry! I just bought my van & I'm learning from you how to do it right! I hope to show it off to you at the 2019 RTR!
SAY WAIT!:
A super cheap greatly overlooked free insulation material for what you might use to stuff into cavities in a van is used poly fill-pillow filling that you can fairly easily get for free from people's warn discarded sofa's are often found next to apartment dumpsters OR the Foam From the discarded Seat Cushions-New foam is Very expensive but this foam is FREE and should also sound deaden much! The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. To cut foam to desired size and shapes, I use a hack saw taken out of it's holder, holding the blade loose in hand and saw back and forth although it does not work as quick and precise as an electric meat knife, it works ok. Don't use fiberglass insulation that goes in house attics, I think the loose fibers would get into your lungs no matter what. Also note that the stuff in used sofa's have been covered and protected by the outer fabric so it's usually in pretty good shape.
Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa.
Of course you'd want to give it a quick close scan smell with your nose on it in case it has pet urine but really most apartment deter pets by either not allowing pets or they charge a lot to have them.
Manufacturers make the poly basically from plastic bottles and it's fluffy and no one is allergic to it and it doesn't make you scratch and it doesn't absorb water and although it isn't as good of an insulation as foam, it does insulate by holding the air in it's fiber fluff pockets.
Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?!
What could be cheaper? Thanks for your videos!
Jim McDaniels Thank you for this great idea. The universe is abundant we just have to look under the cushions or anywhere to find the answers
The child in me says: check the couches for spare change, lol!
if you want to control mold , try using expanding foam in the weir hollow hard to get too spaces. be careful though. because it expands more than you think and is very sticky and can move things if you dont allow for that. tI used spray foam for the entirety. To heck with panels and cutting which will not stop moisture /mold nearly as well as spray can foam.does. Use cear tubing to reach deep blind areas and have everything moved and prepped because once you start a can you can't stop until its empty.
I'm enjoying watching you guys work! That compass tool is pretty slick.
You guys are doing a terrific job. Thanks for the info about the 1/2 inch thermo space while using reflex makes good sense. Regardless of your comment about doing half ass work. It looks great for the amount spent on materials. Great info and video coverage as always.
Hi, Bob, I really enjoy your videos - they are very informative and inspirational!
I learned a lot!!
Leaving the parachute cord behind the wall is
I learned that squeezing fiberglass together, basically renders it useless. (A MUST KNOW!)
The
Nice job Bob and Terry!
Fascinating and inspiring, Bob! Thank you.
Terry has carpenter skills, and so do I.
Really good stuff here. Thank you for taking the time to show us.
Have you considered spring expanding foam inside the holes of the ribs and also along the edges under the metal lips to fill gaps? I have used expanding foam in my home to seal up wholes where there is pipes coming through it to insulate as well as keep insects and rodents from coming in through them. You might try that and see it could also be used for sound insulation as well. There are different types. And they have adhesive in them so they stick to whatever you spray them too.
You're awesome 👍🌻❤️
In my former life as a engraver we used both 77 and water based contact cement I preferred liquid contact much better control and less waste using foam brushes or rollers and saves you money by having more for other projects the valves on the cans are problematic and the propellant will run out before the glue is used up generally speaking
@Joseph Wilson Wow I had no idea there was a waterbased contact cement. Thanks will ck that out
Thanks Bob.
These are skills I'm going to be using in just a few weeks.
A quick way to do things ( well the cutting away of excess and cleanup after is not so quick lol ) that also removes airgaps where mold can grow due to condensation is use expanding foam in cans - first filling the wall ribs with that and cutting the excess when its cured, then plywood panels along the cabin length and injecting expanding foam behind it. Prime the metal surface by sanding coarsely it and degreasing so the foam can adhere well. Proper way to do this plenty of videos on youtube how to work with it I suspect but basically start at the bottom and move up. Having some injection holes along the wall helps fill consistently. Cut the excess foam away, finish the plywood trim around the edges and on to the next part of the build. You will end up with a great R value.
Caught you smiling, Bob. First time I've noticed in all your videos I've been watching a couple of years. Yes, it happened at about 32:14. You should do it more often.
I'm too serious, too. Guess I need to do the same. You should clip that picture to use somewhere. Appreciate all that you do for the community.
Great job Terry .. great narration Bob
Another good video Bob. I used spray foam to fill in all the ribs in my build. It worked great. The ribs on my Transit van were not as large as yous. I used a big roll bubble wrap for all those large gaps like you have up along the roof line. The bubble were 3/8 diameter. People can get big rolls of it a U-Line.
Totally agree with you and Flower Child! My favorite saying is: "Somebody gets paid to do that." from cooking to insulation! hahaha
Expanding foam for all your nooks, crannies and irregular shapes works well and trims easily with a utility knife after it cures.
Thanks for the great video. I had a high top; I ran a piece of ½” pex
through the roof ribs in case I want to wire later. . . . Jack
Great video,I bet you two had fun doing it . Plywood on floor as a base cuts down on holes to outside.
Then covering and attaching is easier. Look forward to more vids, there great!
I.. will not use fiberglass insulation. Not the fluffy shedding stuff, anyways, with all the vibrations, no matter how much sealing I do, I worry that it will get into the air. And if not for myself, then for my dog.. Not something I would use. And of course it's what I picked up because I was in a hurry, so.. Gotta correct that one. Great video though! Now I know what kind I AM using. :D
Thanks for the video bud! Heading out to buy some insulation and a vent fan for my week old van now. Been living in it for about a week in the Inyo Forest in Cali just to get a feel for it, and now it's time to build. Enjoy the Kenai... I miss it! Hopefully I'll make it back to the SE next summer. Amalga better save me a bottle of gin, and Klondike better have a beer waiting for me.
Thanks for showing the details - like the compass & materials.
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Merci Bob for all this great info.. it is indeed hard to aim at a One véhicule… at each UA-cam discovering new rigs.. I still hope that I will find the right one perhaps here in VA where I live!
Thank you for posting this video. I always wondered how it was done 🙂👍
Great video BoB and Terry for your help.
One good thing about insulating the floor is road noise. I've actually used insulation with a sticky side to insulate underneath my long haul tractor. This probably isn't an issue in your van, but it's very discernable in my class 8 truck.
Love your vids, I'd like to retire to this lifestyle!
This is absolutely an issue for some vehicles, thanks fir posting wayward one!
Spray foam seems like a great idea. I never considered the problem that it absorbs water and therefore the condensation against the metal can ruin it and cause mold. That's a good tip! A few questions...
I was thinking... How about spray rubber? Would that work? Put down a coating of spray rubber (like a truck bedliner) as the first layer on all the metal. That way, the metal has a rubber coating first. Then, lay the insulation atop that. Think that would work to prevent sweating and mold?
Also, have you ever used _Bora-Foam_ or _Foam-Control EPS with Perform Guard_ instead of _Polyiso_, as a way to prevent possible termite damage?
Ohhh i wish he would have answered your question. It was such a good idea and now I'm wondering about i!!!
For drilling/screwing in paneling to ceiling, I would make templates indicating where the holes are in those ribs, so I wouldn't waste time drilling and hitting one of those holes. I would, also, still put in spray foam insulation into those ceiling ribs. Heat and cold ARE going to transfer.....I would want those ribs sealed up as much as the rest of the ceiling is.
Get a roof vent on top of the van, just like RV’s have, it will help immensely with hot days.
I was thinking the same thing.....”yo. Ya bring the needle noes players ”
Bob, can you explain in detail about the solar kit, especially the safety measures and risks when setting up. Thanks for your helpful and educational videos.
Looking great Bob. I mean the van ( ha , ha ) lol. Love the build so far!
That glue stuff you scraped off was made to glue the skin of the van to the ribs (or skeleton) of the chassis. It does help minimize flexing and it can help with vibrations.
Bob, I hoped you previously lived in a really, really really extreme cold climate and built houses and then lived in several van much longer than almost anyone so that you know what you are doing and can pacify the lounge chair experts! Lol. Ignorance and laughter are two of life's best antidotes.
Thank you for all the sharing of knowledge and experience in this video. I liked and subscribed.
Thanks Bob. Nice vid, Sir!
Miminal expanding foam (windows) would work for the joints.
Hi Bob and Terry, the fitting out is progressing nicely, it's only too bad this isn't my van.
Great! Thank you for making and including all the details!
Question: what happened to Part 2? I see the UA-cam screen for it, but it always defaults to Part 1 (????).
So fun to watch how you do this. Thanks!
77 Spray has a warning about causing Neurological damage. It also releases with heat. Used it for years but will not use it anymore. Go with a spray foam insulation and get a professional to do it as it's tricky and you want it done correctly.
Always LOVE your videos! So informative, and you are so kind and compassionate to share your personal experiences with us all....I do have one personal thought. That "cheap" paneling looks great up there....The only thing that takes away from the sleek and bright look are all those rivets, or screws that were used to attach paneling to the ribs...Could you have simply tacked the panel just at the top and bottom? It's just personal preference. And I am just learning the in's and outs of building out a van ;0) Gotta love ya Bob! Thankx for everything you do.Safe Travels, and blessing to you.
After he puts in his cabinets and shelving you won't see much of the paneling anyway.
Hi Bob, enjoy you vids and input :) and some of the others also.
The bottom line on the van insulation debate is it's just not possible to be 100% efficient period. At least @ this time.
You have barn doors or slider doors in a living space of approximately 40 square feet.
That alone should raise eyebrows, even if you vacuum sealed off the rest of the vehicle perfection isn't happening.
At some point common sense (Read $$$$$) enters the equation, and the realization the 100% just isn't going to happen. And it doesn't have to in order to be comfortable.
Looking forward to the next vid and Regards from the Great White North
Bob why didn't you just fill the ribs with spray foam? It expands and fills the whole rib?
exactly 😏
Not toxic once it dries. Use a mask while applying.
i hear the foam eventually becomes rigid and dry, with vibrations its starts breaking down and starts to break down.
Possibly, but I have seen no evidence in my limited experience. A buddy used it in his Van conversion about 5 years ago and while the Van is only for Summer use, so far no crumbling( That can be seen ). He used good quality 3M stuff, so maybe that helps???
Use door and window foam, not the big gap foam. And as long as its not exposed to UV most foam is fine.
I’m going to spray everything with rubber undercoating first.
Pretty paneling ! I prefer bamboo, but I wonder how much more expensive bamboo paneling is. I'm jealous....I would LOVE to buy a newer van like Bob has done, no breakdown worries....and go to town rehab'g it into a home on wheels.
great great job bob. id of course do things a little different but righteous build dude