Thanks for the lesson. I purchased a double switch thinking it would be straightforward. I couldn't get the second switch to work at all until watching this video and realized I needed to change to 14/3 wire. Adding that neutral made my day.
I was racking my brain for over an hour trying to figure out how to convert my single switch to a double and man did this help. Thank you, being able to see the full picture was so helpful.
You not alone, Sarena. I'm a contractor but never did electrical work before, but I want to learn. I'm not a fast learner, need to watch feel times before I'm able to do it. Hope you did learn. Rogerio from canada 🇨🇦.
I had replaced a double switch without first taking note of the wire placements beforehand. Duh! So, I sourced this video and learned what I did wrong. Now, the switches are finally working as desired. Thank you!
This is simple and completely on the money, this is my first time commenting on an instructional video, but it just helped so much. Just watching this video once makes me feel like a master already!
Perfect explanation of the switch. Thank you so much. Particularly helpful starting at the 3 min mark, where you explain the purpose of the tab if you have only one hot wire, then pointing out the two BRASS screws (as different from the black screws). Other UA-cam videos weren't as good as yours.
So my box where the switch connects looks like the video. But the black wires are capped at the fixture, with only the white and red wires in use. How would I proceed then?
@@handydadtv I'd like to add another switch to control two lights. Currently, one switch controls 2 lights. However, at the fixture black wires are capped off and the fixture is connected to red wire, white wire, and ground.
@elonewinston1043 How is the current switch wired? How is the other light wired? Where do those black wires go? Open everything up and use a voltage tester to figure it out. You may need to run a new wire for the second light.
You're like the helpful Dad I never had growing up, as a 33 year old man learning all of these projects and doing them in my house. Thank you very much.
Fantastic! You have a great teachings ability my friend. You were able to explain this is the most simplest terms while being detailed and thorough. I've watched tons of other videos like this and always walked away more confused! Thank you for this.
I appreciate the thorough and easy to follow explanations and instructions. I am not sure that I have even encountered a double switch before. This tutorial presents me with a possible solution -- I will have to test it out -- for a pre-existing circuit of two light devices/receptacles controlled by two 3-way switches in a single loop-of-sorts, that I am wishing to split into more independent lights/receptacles & controls.
Another great video! Your approach to explaining is the best I’ve seen so far. Where can I send you a photo or 2 of a scenario like this I found at an AIRBNB basketball court lights? I would like for you to see how he wired it up and what happened next.
Thank you for your support. I find myself in a situation where there are two switches in the bathroom, yet no receptacle is available. I require the conversion of two plugs to fit into one plug and the installation of a GFI receptacle in the alternate location.
I'm installing a ceiling light in my studio room and don't currently have a light switch, so I'm installing the light switch that you have and considering putting two lights in my room, but other than Romex wires, I'm guessing I need the extra wiring that you have here, like the red black and white wires need to be purchased as well in order for everything to separate? And I'll need to buy the triple wago as well? Thank you so much! Liked and subbed!
I appreciate the sub, but I’m gonna be straight with you. This question tells me you’re not ready to do your own wiring yet. Keep learning so you have the confidence to know what you need.
@@handydadtv Well, I just bought everything else that I needed from home Depot to get the job done, and I'm assuming that might have been the last step needed. You say keep learning, but if you can't give me that answer to the one last question I had, how can I learn lol I have everything all planned out it's mapped out precisely to get the job done, the only thing I need to know is if I needed those extra wires to connect everything together, or can it be done with the 50ft of 12 2 Romex. Cheers
@@handydadtv Ahhh I figured that was the case, just wanted to make sure. I got the triple wago as well, so I should pretty much have everything needed to get the job done. I bought a tool that should snip the romex in a way to make the proper pigtails! Thank you again for being so helpful. I might just have to save up money so I can send you a cup of coffee!!! Cheers friend!
Wanting to run a bathroom light and fan to be controlled by the two separate switch's you demonstrate here. The current power supply is a three wire= white/black/ground, thus no red wire. Can I pigtail an additional wire from the hot all the time Black and mark it with red OR locate a section of Red wire to pig tail from the black the follow your instruction as in this video?
@handydadtv Hey Chris...what if the power is coming from the fixture to the switch? I had a single switch that was powering two separate lights, one of the wires came loose in the box and no clue how it was wired. So right now I have a porch light that has a white (hot, labeled with black tape) and a black traveler wire, in addition to another white wire and black wire that run out to a pole light in the yard (no power to either of those wires. How do I wire a double switch under these circumstances?
As you discovered, the white wire from the light isn’t a neutral, it’s part of the switch loop to the light. It sounds like you have no neutral in that box, so I’m not sure how the pole light ever worked.
Ground is always bare copper or green. Neutrals are usually white. Hots are usually black or red. But electricity doesn’t care what color the wire is. And, depending on the age of your home, electricians didn’t always follow conventional standards. So you need to test everything. Don’t assume based on color.
Great videos! Thanks! Question. I’m installing recessed lighting in new construction. The wires are pushed into the connectors…is it important to push the wires back into the metal box on the LED recessed light? Thank you!
Thank you so much for your videos, i have already added additional outlets from single outlet by following your video. I am trying to now convert a single switch (recessed LED lights) to a double switch (recessed + new wall light). Which option would you recommend. Option 1: I have two romex 14/2 wires can i still connect double switch? Option 2: pig tale the hot supply line and put 2 independent switches since i have already concealed the wiring.
Thank you for the explanation. I have a situation like the second part where I have a hot a red wire and two loads. However, I want to install a WIFI smart that only has a line and two loads. Can I connect the hot to the line, the top load to load # 1 and the red with load # 2 to load # 2 on wifi circuit?
Watching this to try and figure out how to do away with the double switch that you installed. Currently have the top switch controls the overhead light and the bottom switch controls two outlets in the room (top plug in only). Whats the best way to do away with this and just have a single switch control my overhead light and the top and bottom of both outlets just stay hot all the time?
Connect all the load wires (the ones going to the light and outlets) together with a pigtail going to one of the screws on the new single switch. Connect the hot wire to the other screw.
Thanks so much for the video, its very helpful. Would it be possible to replace a double switch like this (controlling bathroom exhaust fan and lights) with a timer switch that will control both devices? The light and fan would come on together. I Would like to keep the single gang but changing to double gang is an option too.
Perfect! My issue is that there is a fourth Romex wire coming into the box in the bathroom. (Two are going to the bathroom fan and the light, one is the supply.) I guess it is just placed there to supply power to the hallway light, which is on the same circuit. I will pigtail the 2 black supply wires so that i only need to screw one black wire into the double switch. This was not my original problem, unfortunately. The light bulbs in the vanity light fixture started flickering then shutting off for no apparent reason. I thought it was the switch that was bad when I discovered the extra wire coming from the hall. Thought this would be an easy fix!
I hope you can understand this question. I currently have a ceiling light in a bedroom on a single switch. I want to remove the light....add a ceiling fan with a light....and change the single switch to a double switch so i can turn the light or fan on separately. Is this possible or do i need to run a new wire as the current set up there is just a light. There has never been a ceiling fan there in the past. Its always been just a light.
You would need to run 3-conductor wire to use a double switch. But if you open your light and have a constant hot there, you could control the fan motor with a pull chain and use the existing switch to the control the fan light.
Is there a special switch for this kind of job for DC power? I have solar panels that go into a grid tied inverter and when I don't want to send power into the house I have my solar panels connected to boost charge controller to charge my ebike. Right now I have to take the wires out every time, but I was hoping there's a switch I could change between the two, so one power source two different loads dc power. Hope that makes sense.
Every mechanical AC switch will also work for DC. Rather than a double switch, I think a 3-way or 4-way switch will be more effective. Watch ua-cam.com/video/aajyhWpU9fo/v-deo.html to see how they’re wired.
I'm assuming this would be the same manner of wiring a double switch if I wanted to add a bathroom exhaust fan (without a light) as the other "device" to an existing single light switch box . . . or are there other things to consider if the second device is an exhaust fan?
I think this will work for my situation?? I have two 3 way switches, one at top of stairs and one st the bottom but i only have 1 existing light fixture at top of stairs. I want to add a light fixture at bottom of stairs. Can someone tell how to do this? Running cable from the existing light at top of stsirs to new light at bottom of stairs isnt a possibility
A double switch won’t help you. Watch this to see how 3-way circuits are wired: ua-cam.com/video/M_zDt6iJKdQ/v-deo.html You’d need to open both switches and use a tester to figure out how yours is wired to see if you can do what you want.
There is a red and black wire on left side of switch and black and ground on right side . The white wires are combined with others in the box that houses 2 other switches for fan and another light. I did buy a 3 way and single pole combination switch. You say the duplex switch won't help me?
That’s the line side of the 3-way circuit. The cable with the red wire goes up to the switch at the top of the steps, then to the light. If you want to add a light on that 3-way circuit, you need to wire it from the top switch. You can add another switch to work a new light at the bottom, but it will be independent from the light at the top.
Or can I run a 14/2 cable from the existing light at top of stairs down to new light at bottom of stairs but run the cable in one of those wall cord hiding channels? It would be very difficult to get a cable inside the walls since the new light is on an exterior wall with insulation and membrane
What if, when you use only 1 live wire, your 2nd light reads that it has power but doesn't light up? The tab for the black screws was still intact as well. Just screwed in the 2nd black screw as you did. Here recently, in my 1950 house, I had 2 lights in my bathroom, 1 vanity, and 1 ceiling, and after wiring them the exact same way as you described in the video the vanity would have phantom voltage to where it would show there was power but wouldn't light. What I had to do was run 2 seperate wires to the receptacle so there was a live wire on each black screw and then ran wiring to the light for each switch. It was really odd that having only 1 live wire wouldn't work, but after wiring the lights up with 2nd live it works and the wires don't get hot or anything concerning.
@handydadtv That's what I thought as well. Despite it being a 1950 house you would think that one live wire would've been enough, but just wasn't enough power to turn on the 2nd light for some reason, yet the same main wire is used for both lights 🤔 Usually, with LED lights, I thought they would use less power as well. Regardless, I keep tabs on it daily to be sure the wires aren't getting hot just to be safe.
I’ve got a 220 in my well house running my well pump and was needing to put a 110 heater in it and was wondering if there is anyway I can reduce the 220 to 110. Thanks
Hi, I did this exactly as stated for a ceiling fan so the fam and light each had their own switch. No remote, just pull strings. And they both turn on but when I turn the fan switch on, it turns the light off. Any idea what’s happening here?
I was looking to replace a Single Pole switch for a fan, but there's only 14/2 for the lines/loads. Is there anything I can do besides run new wire? It would be way too much work running a new line, to the point I'd rather just pull the light chain everytime.
Is that a flat blade screwdriver? Always wanted to see someone actually using one how it was intended to be used. Instead there's people stabbing others, thieves trying to break into something, you get the point. Nice informative simple to follow video sir. Sehr gut!!!
I only have a hot and a neutral going to my single switch that turns on/off both the light and the fan in my bathroom. Do I have enough wire to connect to separate switch?
i have a switch for a light. i want to replace the switch with a 2 socket plug that is always loaded. i have a pull string switch on the light. i hooked the hot wire and the neutral wire to the right side screws and the ground to the left side screw, not the green screw. is this ok and safe? thanx
Watch this video to understand how outlets are wired (white and black should be on OPPOSITE sides): ua-cam.com/video/FW20oimH7Sk/v-deo.html You may need to change the wiring of the light so the outlet has constant power and a good neutral.
I'm confused about the neutrals. I want to hook up an exterior light on my garage. There's a hot, neutral, 2nd hot, and a ground coming into a double switch. One switch controls the interior light, the other controls the exterior. I'm getting power to the exterior but the light is not working. I suspect it has something to with the neutral. Where should I run the neutral coming into the garage?
@@handydadtv It's definitely a strange connection. Looks like whoever installed it made what was supposed to be the neutral on for the white another hot as it's connected to a hot screw on the switch along with another hot that goes to the second switch on the same screw. I imagine this is why I still detect power at the light with the switch off, but the light does not work.
First mistake is thinking every white wire is a neutral. It is very common to repurpose a white wire as a hot wire in a switch loop. Especially in older houses.
I have a double switch and I want to replace the one gang box and add a two gang box to add receptacles. Can that be done? If so, do you have a video for that conversion? Thanks.
I need a response asap,, ok I have two existing light switches in bathroom that control individual purpose one is to turn on the light and the other is to turn on the moisture ceiling fan ?? Is I need to add one outlet to the existing switches that would always be on , can I do this and if yes ,, show me how
Possibly. Watch this to see if you can add an outlet from a switch: ua-cam.com/video/1JK0-yoNaWo/v-deo.html If you can, then you can use a double switch to make room for the outlet. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet in a bathroom.
I am struggling lol, I have a 2 function switch but my light wire is the constant hot. What would be different about this situation? I have tried putting the hot on the black and the white on the brass and putting the whites together in a cap my light works but I can’t get power to my exhaust fan (in place of your outlet in the scenario)
@ no worries thanks for responding, I’ll figure it out lol. I’m just not used to the wire that runs to the light being constantly hot on 14/2 no ground. Thanks for the response.
Just wanted to share, I Figured it out! It’s called a switch loop and since the white has been retasked to hot there’s no extension possible as there’s no neutral to tie into so I just have to run another hot wire in to the bo then I can add my fan
@brandonbaker6129 You should open the light to see how it’s wired. It may be a simple switch loop such that crossing the black and white turn the light on.
Great video. It all made perfect sense. Two questions. What is that kind of switch called? I’ve seen double switches and also double switches 3-way. Also, the red wire is from a 14-3 Romex cable, correct? I want to wire a ceiling fan with one switch controlling the fan and the other controlling the light. Thanks for your help
You don’t want a 3-way. Just a normal double switch. Yes, the red wire is from 3-conductor Romex which allows you to control the fan and light separately. The fan in this video is wired that way: ua-cam.com/video/Ii938I_PDEk/v-deo.html If you’re putting in a new fan and new switch box, I’d recommend a 2-gang box so you have the ability to install a fan control like this: ua-cam.com/video/6G3GvIGteAs/v-deo.html
I only have a two lines 14/2. One hot and other Load. When I connect white only one works the other arks and shuts off power, it had a two switch before
@DarrellSoza That’s unfortunate. Use a meter to troubleshoot. Don’t trust the color of the wires. If you can’t figure it out, call a handyman or electrician.
This is a great video, but I feel that it’s semi important to note that usually there won’t be a red wire in this situation. It makes it easier for demonstration purposes but there’s not gonna be a red wire. Just multiple black and white wires. You’re gonna have the incoming power source and then switch line one and then another switch line two. Basically imagine the red wire was black and it makes no difference. It just makes it easier to show on video if it’s red But usually you’d be seeing three black wires, three white wires, and three ground wires One black wire will be the power source and the other two black wires will be running to whatever they run to… lights or fans or whatever device So you wire the black wire that’s constantly hot (power source wire) to the side of the switch with the tab on it (black screw) and the other two black wires will be wired the side of the switch with no tab on it the side with the brass screws.
Sir. I installed the switch as directed however only one button is working and still turns on both ceiling lights. I believe my problem surrounds the fact that there is a second switch on other side of the room. Based on this a need to change the switch out too. Your recommendation? Can I send you a photo of my old switch?
If you replaced a single switch that had three wires (plus ground), that’s a 3-way circuit and the double switch won’t work there. Watch ua-cam.com/video/aajyhWpU9fo/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv Sir. Thanks for your response. Based on my scenario, is there anyway to get a double ceiling lights on double 3-way switches to converted so that ceiling lights can be turned on independent of each other? I am hoping there’s a solution.
okay so I have a switch that is currently controlling a light. I would like to swap the outlet for a double switch to control the light and a bathroom fan. Would I be using this but using that second black screw that you didn't use? I find wiring drawings easier to understand than seeing the wires personally.
This may help. I use a triple switch here, but it explains the 3-conductor wire going to the fan/heater. Same concept. ua-cam.com/video/Sl-b8fSQwCQ/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv👍 true. I have a lutron hub and two caseta switches. However I'm trying to replace them with z-wave plus switches to match all the Zoozs switches. 😁 Going to explore the possibility of running a neutral wire.
What does it mean when they both work but the one switch has to be on for the other to work? i can turn the top light on and off , with top switch but if bottom is off they are both are off ?
The answer to this puzzle is brute force. I pried it up away from the surface with a screwdriver. With pliers, grabbed the tag and pulled and twisted and finally, it broke. Be sure the remnant has a clear break in the metal and you can see plastic. You should be aware of this point before you start, as it might fracture at the gap. It is easy to work the tab at the top, rather than grabbing it as close to the housing as you can get.
Breaking that little tab was unnecessarily difficult... to the point that I thought I must be doing this wrong and was accidentally breaking the entire outlet. Brute force eventually worked, despite losing chunks of the little leverage I had as parts of the tab fell apart. Good luck!
No, that’s a bit too specific. But it would be much more cost-effective to leave the switch alone and just install a smart bulb to go on and off at a scheduled time.
In my situation, the POWER is coming from the light fixture to the switch (one wire), the second wire is going from the switch to a receptacle. Previously the light was controlled by a pull string, I'm trying to install a new LED light and want to control it with the switch, but I also want the receptacle to have constant power. Can you help?
Hello There, Can you make a video on how to add a back to back from the same electric switch. one inside the house the the other outside in the balcony, thanks.
A red wire is typically a secondary hot found in 3-conductor cables. You need to know where it goes and what it powers before you connect it to the switch. It will likely get connected to one of the brass screws. But you shouldn’t guess. You need to KNOW. If you can’t confidently figure it out, please call an electrician.
Just a guess that you might have reversed the wires on the bottom. Use a voltage tester to determine the hot line that brings power into the box. That’s the one that needs to be on the common side of the switches.
I have an older house built in 1961. I have 6 wires coming out of electrical box. When I wired up the new switch both switches turns on both lights and shuts off both lights 2 hot wires and 2 neutral wires
Thanks for the lesson. I purchased a double switch thinking it would be straightforward. I couldn't get the second switch to work at all until watching this video and realized I needed to change to 14/3 wire. Adding that neutral made my day.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I was racking my brain for over an hour trying to figure out how to convert my single switch to a double and man did this help. Thank you, being able to see the full picture was so helpful.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
You not alone, Sarena. I'm a contractor but never did electrical work before, but I want to learn. I'm not a fast learner, need to watch feel times before I'm able to do it. Hope you did learn. Rogerio from canada 🇨🇦.
I had replaced a double switch without first taking note of the wire placements beforehand. Duh! So, I sourced this video and learned what I did wrong. Now, the switches are finally working as desired. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
This is simple and completely on the money, this is my first time commenting on an instructional video, but it just helped so much. Just watching this video once makes me feel like a master already!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Perfect explanation of the switch. Thank you so much. Particularly helpful starting at the 3 min mark, where you explain the purpose of the tab if you have only one hot wire, then pointing out the two BRASS screws (as different from the black screws). Other UA-cam videos weren't as good as yours.
Thanks so much 😊
So my box where the switch connects looks like the video. But the black wires are capped at the fixture, with only the white and red wires in use. How would I proceed then?
@elonewinston1043 I don’t know what you want to do.
@@handydadtv I'd like to add another switch to control two lights. Currently, one switch controls 2 lights. However, at the fixture black wires are capped off and the fixture is connected to red wire, white wire, and ground.
@elonewinston1043 How is the current switch wired? How is the other light wired? Where do those black wires go? Open everything up and use a voltage tester to figure it out. You may need to run a new wire for the second light.
You're like the helpful Dad I never had growing up, as a 33 year old man learning all of these projects and doing them in my house. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Fantastic! You have a great teachings ability my friend. You were able to explain this is the most simplest terms while being detailed and thorough. I've watched tons of other videos like this and always walked away more confused! Thank you for this.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I appreciate the thorough and easy to follow explanations and instructions. I am not sure that I have even encountered a double switch before.
This tutorial presents me with a possible solution -- I will have to test it out -- for a pre-existing circuit of two light devices/receptacles controlled by two 3-way switches in a single loop-of-sorts, that I am wishing to split into more independent lights/receptacles & controls.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Perfect explanation. Need to use a double switch for basement lights and outdoor light. This helped, thank you.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you so much. My first time trying to repair anything electrical in my house and this was perfect.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video. You explained it perfectly. You helped me out, thank you. 👍
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Another great video! Your approach to explaining is the best I’ve seen so far. Where can I send you a photo or 2 of a scenario like this I found at an AIRBNB basketball court lights? I would like for you to see how he wired it up and what happened next.
Thanks so much 😊
Email chris@handydad.tv
Thank you for the video, it is exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video. Instructions are clear, concise and easy to follow. And it worked on first try.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Beautifully clear and concise! I thought I needed a double gang box for a junction, but i dont! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Outstanding video, short and sweet and easy to understand! Many videos are far too long.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for your support. I find myself in a situation where there are two switches in the bathroom, yet no receptacle is available. I require the conversion of two plugs to fit into one plug and the installation of a GFI receptacle in the alternate location.
If you currently have two switches in one box, I’d change that to a GFCI outlet and double switch.
Perfectly explain clear and concise I give you a 10/10 score
Thanks so much 😊
Hey I had my kitchen and deck light come on for yrs with the same switch , thanks to you problem solved ! Tyvm 🤙🏼
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for the video very helpful, God bless you and your family, JLR.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
thanks man, really easy to follow
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I'm installing a ceiling light in my studio room and don't currently have a light switch, so I'm installing the light switch that you have and considering putting two lights in my room, but other than Romex wires, I'm guessing I need the extra wiring that you have here, like the red black and white wires need to be purchased as well in order for everything to separate? And I'll need to buy the triple wago as well? Thank you so much! Liked and subbed!
I appreciate the sub, but I’m gonna be straight with you. This question tells me you’re not ready to do your own wiring yet. Keep learning so you have the confidence to know what you need.
@@handydadtv Well, I just bought everything else that I needed from home Depot to get the job done, and I'm assuming that might have been the last step needed. You say keep learning, but if you can't give me that answer to the one last question I had, how can I learn lol
I have everything all planned out it's mapped out precisely to get the job done, the only thing I need to know is if I needed those extra wires to connect everything together, or can it be done with the 50ft of 12 2 Romex. Cheers
You don’t purchase pigtails separately. You cut them from the spool of Romex.
@@handydadtv Ahhh I figured that was the case, just wanted to make sure. I got the triple wago as well, so I should pretty much have everything needed to get the job done. I bought a tool that should snip the romex in a way to make the proper pigtails! Thank you again for being so helpful. I might just have to save up money so I can send you a cup of coffee!!! Cheers friend!
Thank you. That was very helpful for my bathfan/nightlight combo replacement switch
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Super helpful, thank you sir.
My pleasure
Wanting to run a bathroom light and fan to be controlled by the two separate switch's you demonstrate here. The current power supply is a three wire= white/black/ground, thus no red wire. Can I pigtail an additional wire from the hot all the time Black and mark it with red OR locate a section of Red wire to pig tail from the black the follow your instruction as in this video?
You probably have a simple switch loop, meaning the white wire was attached to the switch.
Sounds like you need to rewire.
Thank you I was trying to figure out how to wire my fan light combo with a 12-2 wire coming from my power source and you just showed me
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
@handydadtv
Hey Chris...what if the power is coming from the fixture to the switch? I had a single switch that was powering two separate lights, one of the wires came loose in the box and no clue how it was wired. So right now I have a porch light that has a white (hot, labeled with black tape) and a black traveler wire, in addition to another white wire and black wire that run out to a pole light in the yard (no power to either of those wires. How do I wire a double switch under these circumstances?
As you discovered, the white wire from the light isn’t a neutral, it’s part of the switch loop to the light.
It sounds like you have no neutral in that box, so I’m not sure how the pole light ever worked.
What is the red wire a ground or neutral or hot
Ground is always bare copper or green. Neutrals are usually white. Hots are usually black or red.
But electricity doesn’t care what color the wire is. And, depending on the age of your home, electricians didn’t always follow conventional standards. So you need to test everything. Don’t assume based on color.
Great videos! Thanks! Question. I’m installing recessed lighting in new construction. The wires are pushed into the connectors…is it important to push the wires back into the metal box on the LED recessed light? Thank you!
Yes. All connections must be enclosed in the junction box.
Thank you so much for your videos, i have already added additional outlets from single outlet by following your video. I am trying to now convert a single switch (recessed LED lights) to a double switch (recessed + new wall light). Which option would you recommend.
Option 1: I have two romex 14/2 wires can i still connect double switch?
Option 2: pig tale the hot supply line and put 2 independent switches since i have already concealed the wiring.
If you can use a 2-gang box, I prefer two switches instead of a double switch. But that’s me.
sir your time is very appreciated, thank you!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video so helpful
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks for the content! You saved me in minutes!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Sir sir sir the same setup yu hav but the hot goin from the top down Startin at the light how do yu go about that
Can’t do a double switch there.
Thank you for the explanation. I have a situation like the second part where I have a hot a red wire and two loads. However, I want to install a WIFI smart that only has a line and two loads. Can I connect the hot to the line, the top load to load # 1 and the red with load # 2 to load # 2 on wifi circuit?
It sounds like you know what you’re doing. 👍🏻
Thanks was really helpful...I connected the hot to the common sides and either switch controlled the light
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Watching this to try and figure out how to do away with the double switch that you installed. Currently have the top switch controls the overhead light and the bottom switch controls two outlets in the room (top plug in only). Whats the best way to do away with this and just have a single switch control my overhead light and the top and bottom of both outlets just stay hot all the time?
Connect all the load wires (the ones going to the light and outlets) together with a pigtail going to one of the screws on the new single switch. Connect the hot wire to the other screw.
Thanks so much for the video, its very helpful. Would it be possible to replace a double switch like this (controlling bathroom exhaust fan and lights) with a timer switch that will control both devices? The light and fan would come on together.
I Would like to keep the single gang but changing to double gang is an option too.
Yes you can combine the two loads to the timer and they will work together.
Thank you for the video, I am going to try it.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Excellent. Thank you.
My pleasure!
Thank you, this solved my problem!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you!!!
My pleasure!
The video was helpful. The color of the wires in my box led to some confusion. A multi-meter was used. The end result was successful.
Electricity doesn’t care what color the wire is. You did the right thing. 👍🏻
Perfect! My issue is that there is a fourth Romex wire coming into the box in the bathroom. (Two are going to the bathroom fan and the light, one is the supply.) I guess it is just placed there to supply power to the hallway light, which is on the same circuit. I will pigtail the 2 black supply wires so that i only need to screw one black wire into the double switch. This was not my original problem, unfortunately. The light bulbs in the vanity light fixture started flickering then shutting off for no apparent reason. I thought it was the switch that was bad when I discovered the extra wire coming from the hall. Thought this would be an easy fix!
That’s a lot of wires for a single box.
I hope you can understand this question.
I currently have a ceiling light in a bedroom on a single switch.
I want to remove the light....add a ceiling fan with a light....and change the single switch to a double switch so i can turn the light or fan on separately.
Is this possible or do i need to run a new wire as the current set up there is just a light. There has never been a ceiling fan there in the past. Its always been just a light.
You would need to run 3-conductor wire to use a double switch.
But if you open your light and have a constant hot there, you could control the fan motor with a pull chain and use the existing switch to the control the fan light.
Is there a special switch for this kind of job for DC power? I have solar panels that go into a grid tied inverter and when I don't want to send power into the house I have my solar panels connected to boost charge controller to charge my ebike. Right now I have to take the wires out every time, but I was hoping there's a switch I could change between the two, so one power source two different loads dc power. Hope that makes sense.
Every mechanical AC switch will also work for DC. Rather than a double switch, I think a 3-way or 4-way switch will be more effective. Watch ua-cam.com/video/aajyhWpU9fo/v-deo.html to see how they’re wired.
Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
I'm assuming this would be the same manner of wiring a double switch if I wanted to add a bathroom exhaust fan (without a light) as the other "device" to an existing single light switch box . . . or are there other things to consider if the second device is an exhaust fan?
Exactly the same. You can control any two devices with this method. You would just need to sets of wires going to the devices.
Thanks! And thanks for all your informative videos!
I think this will work for my situation?? I have two 3 way switches, one at top of stairs and one st the bottom but i only have 1 existing light fixture at top of stairs. I want to add a light fixture at bottom of stairs. Can someone tell how to do this? Running cable from the existing light at top of stsirs to new light at bottom of stairs isnt a possibility
A double switch won’t help you. Watch this to see how 3-way circuits are wired: ua-cam.com/video/M_zDt6iJKdQ/v-deo.html
You’d need to open both switches and use a tester to figure out how yours is wired to see if you can do what you want.
There is a red and black wire on left side of switch and black and ground on right side . The white wires are combined with others in the box that houses 2 other switches for fan and another light. I did buy a 3 way and single pole combination switch. You say the duplex switch won't help me?
That’s the line side of the 3-way circuit. The cable with the red wire goes up to the switch at the top of the steps, then to the light.
If you want to add a light on that 3-way circuit, you need to wire it from the top switch.
You can add another switch to work a new light at the bottom, but it will be independent from the light at the top.
Or can I run a 14/2 cable from the existing light at top of stairs down to new light at bottom of stairs but run the cable in one of those wall cord hiding channels? It would be very difficult to get a cable inside the walls since the new light is on an exterior wall with insulation and membrane
Or how about remote wireless switches?
What if, when you use only 1 live wire, your 2nd light reads that it has power but doesn't light up? The tab for the black screws was still intact as well. Just screwed in the 2nd black screw as you did.
Here recently, in my 1950 house, I had 2 lights in my bathroom, 1 vanity, and 1 ceiling, and after wiring them the exact same way as you described in the video the vanity would have phantom voltage to where it would show there was power but wouldn't light.
What I had to do was run 2 seperate wires to the receptacle so there was a live wire on each black screw and then ran wiring to the light for each switch.
It was really odd that having only 1 live wire wouldn't work, but after wiring the lights up with 2nd live it works and the wires don't get hot or anything concerning.
Really strange. If the connecting tab is intact, you shouldn’t need two lines.
@handydadtv That's what I thought as well.
Despite it being a 1950 house you would think that one live wire would've been enough, but just wasn't enough power to turn on the 2nd light for some reason, yet the same main wire is used for both lights 🤔
Usually, with LED lights, I thought they would use less power as well. Regardless, I keep tabs on it daily to be sure the wires aren't getting hot just to be safe.
@seanthemon Sounds like you need to think about rewiring that circuit.
Should there be three neutral wires ?
Not necessarily.
@@handydadtv wouldn’t the power source have the same three wires as the lights . A hot a neutral and a ground.
In my example, one of the cables is 14/3 which has one of the switched leads. So there’s only two neutrals.
Exact answer to my question. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks, your video was very helpful.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video, clear and informative Thanks brother!
My pleasure
Very useful thank you.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I’ve got a 220 in my well house running my well pump and was needing to put a 110 heater in it and was wondering if there is anyway I can reduce the 220 to 110. Thanks
Talk to an electrician. I think you’d need to do a subpanel.
Hi, I did this exactly as stated for a ceiling fan so the fam and light each had their own switch. No remote, just pull strings. And they both turn on but when I turn the fan switch on, it turns the light off. Any idea what’s happening here?
Something’s wired wrong. Get a voltage tester and troubleshoot it.
I was looking to replace a Single Pole switch for a fan, but there's only 14/2 for the lines/loads. Is there anything I can do besides run new wire? It would be way too much work running a new line, to the point I'd rather just pull the light chain everytime.
All I can suggest is a remote control.
Is that a flat blade screwdriver? Always wanted to see someone actually using one how it was intended to be used. Instead there's people stabbing others, thieves trying to break into something, you get the point. Nice informative simple to follow video sir. Sehr gut!!!
Thanks
I only have a hot and a neutral going to my single switch that turns on/off both the light and the fan in my bathroom. Do I have enough wire to connect to separate switch?
No, you’d need to run another wire. Also, a white wire connected to a switch is not a neutral.
Awesome 👍 thanks 👍
My pleasure!
Theres a light in my attic with a switch. Ya think this would work for a gable vent fan? Enough amperage?
Odds are, yes. But you need to know what other appliances might be on that circuit.
i have a switch for a light. i want to replace the switch with a 2 socket plug that is always loaded. i have a pull string switch on the light. i hooked the hot wire and the neutral wire to the right side screws and the ground to the left side screw, not the green screw. is this ok and safe? thanx
Watch this video to understand how outlets are wired (white and black should be on OPPOSITE sides):
ua-cam.com/video/FW20oimH7Sk/v-deo.html
You may need to change the wiring of the light so the outlet has constant power and a good neutral.
@@handydadtv i adjusted the socket and the light. i only get half power. the light blinks and the plugged in machine does not have enough juice.
Please call an electrician.
Great video. Thanks
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I'm confused about the neutrals. I want to hook up an exterior light on my garage. There's a hot, neutral, 2nd hot, and a ground coming into a double switch. One switch controls the interior light, the other controls the exterior. I'm getting power to the exterior but the light is not working. I suspect it has something to with the neutral. Where should I run the neutral coming into the garage?
The white isn’t a neutral if it’s connected to the switch.
@@handydadtv It's definitely a strange connection. Looks like whoever installed it made what was supposed to be the neutral on for the white another hot as it's connected to a hot screw on the switch along with another hot that goes to the second switch on the same screw. I imagine this is why I still detect power at the light with the switch off, but the light does not work.
@handydadtv Also, the power coming into the garage going into this switch box has 3 hots (2 black, 1 red) 1 neutral, and 1 ground.
First mistake is thinking every white wire is a neutral. It is very common to repurpose a white wire as a hot wire in a switch loop. Especially in older houses.
I have a double switch and I want to replace the one gang box and add a two gang box to add receptacles. Can that be done? If so, do you have a video for that conversion? Thanks.
How to add an Outlet from a Switch
ua-cam.com/video/1JK0-yoNaWo/v-deo.html
Super helpful
Thanks 😊
I need a response asap,, ok I have two existing light switches in bathroom that control individual purpose one is to turn on the light and the other is to turn on the moisture ceiling fan ?? Is I need to add one outlet to the existing switches that would always be on , can I do this and if yes ,, show me how
Possibly. Watch this to see if you can add an outlet from a switch: ua-cam.com/video/1JK0-yoNaWo/v-deo.html
If you can, then you can use a double switch to make room for the outlet. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet in a bathroom.
great video, it just got me out of a jam!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I am struggling lol, I have a 2 function switch but my light wire is the constant hot. What would be different about this situation? I have tried putting the hot on the black and the white on the brass and putting the whites together in a cap my light works but I can’t get power to my exhaust fan (in place of your outlet in the scenario)
Impossible to diagnose like this. I’d call an electrician if you can’t figure it out.
@ no worries thanks for responding, I’ll figure it out lol. I’m just not used to the wire that runs to the light being constantly hot on 14/2 no ground. Thanks for the response.
Just wanted to share, I Figured it out! It’s called a switch loop and since the white has been retasked to hot there’s no extension possible as there’s no neutral to tie into so I just have to run another hot wire in to the bo then I can add my fan
@brandonbaker6129 You should open the light to see how it’s wired. It may be a simple switch loop such that crossing the black and white turn the light on.
@brandonbaker6129 LOL I respond to comments in order! Glad you figured it out.
Oakie Doakie and I really appreciate it. Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks
What type of wire is that with the red?
3-conductor wire has white, black and red.
Thank you kindly
My pleasure!
Hello, Is it possible to connect if you don't have ground wires?
Yes
Hello I was able to connect my top switch and bottom switch, however I could only have them on separate not together any advice
My advice is to get a meter and figure it out. One of the wires is probably reversed.
Great video. It all made perfect sense. Two questions. What is that kind of switch called? I’ve seen double switches and also double switches 3-way.
Also, the red wire is from a 14-3 Romex cable, correct?
I want to wire a ceiling fan with one switch controlling the fan and the other controlling the light. Thanks for your help
You don’t want a 3-way. Just a normal double switch. Yes, the red wire is from 3-conductor Romex which allows you to control the fan and light separately. The fan in this video is wired that way: ua-cam.com/video/Ii938I_PDEk/v-deo.html
If you’re putting in a new fan and new switch box, I’d recommend a 2-gang box so you have the ability to install a fan control like this: ua-cam.com/video/6G3GvIGteAs/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv Thanks very much for your help. That takes care of all my installation and wiring questions.
I only have a two lines 14/2. One hot and other
Load. When I connect white only one works the other arks and shuts off power, it had a two switch before
I don’t suppose you labeled the wires before removing the old switch.
@ the painter took apart
@DarrellSoza That’s unfortunate. Use a meter to troubleshoot. Don’t trust the color of the wires. If you can’t figure it out, call a handyman or electrician.
Nice very helpfull
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
This is a great video, but I feel that it’s semi important to note that usually there won’t be a red wire in this situation. It makes it easier for demonstration purposes but there’s not gonna be a red wire.
Just multiple black and white wires.
You’re gonna have the incoming power source and then switch line one and then another switch line two.
Basically imagine the red wire was black and it makes no difference. It just makes it easier to show on video if it’s red
But usually you’d be seeing three black wires, three white wires, and three ground wires
One black wire will be the power source and the other two black wires will be running to whatever they run to… lights or fans or whatever device
So you wire the black wire that’s constantly hot (power source wire) to the side of the switch with the tab on it (black screw) and the other two black wires will be wired the side of the switch with no tab on it the side with the brass screws.
Good point. I’ll put the idea on my list to revise this without the red wire.
So neutral and ground could be twisted and put a hex nut on them
I’m not sure if this is a question, but the neutral and ground need to be kept separate.
Sir. I installed the switch as directed however only one button is working and still turns on both ceiling lights. I believe my problem surrounds the fact that there is a second switch on other side of the room. Based on this a need to change the switch out too. Your recommendation? Can I send you a photo of my old switch?
If you replaced a single switch that had three wires (plus ground), that’s a 3-way circuit and the double switch won’t work there. Watch ua-cam.com/video/aajyhWpU9fo/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv Sir. Thanks for your response. Based on my scenario, is there anyway to get a double ceiling lights on double 3-way switches to converted so that ceiling lights can be turned on independent of each other? I am hoping there’s a solution.
@ruckspring07 Not DIY. Call an electrician.
okay so I have a switch that is currently controlling a light. I would like to swap the outlet for a double switch to control the light and a bathroom fan. Would I be using this but using that second black screw that you didn't use? I find wiring drawings easier to understand than seeing the wires personally.
also between what connections do I need a 12-2 cable vs a 12-3?
This may help. I use a triple switch here, but it explains the 3-conductor wire going to the fan/heater. Same concept. ua-cam.com/video/Sl-b8fSQwCQ/v-deo.html
Awesome video! I guess i'm SOL if my switch box does not have a neutral and I want to install a smart switch that requires it? =\
Unfortunately most smart switches require a neutral. But not all of them. Such as Lutron Caseta.
@@handydadtv👍 true. I have a lutron hub and two caseta switches. However I'm trying to replace them with z-wave plus switches to match all the Zoozs switches. 😁
Going to explore the possibility of running a neutral wire.
What about the neutral wire? Just cap it off if the neutral doesn't go anywhere else?
Why doesn’t it connect to anything?
Thanks man.
My pleasure!
What does it mean when they both work but the one switch has to be on for the other to work? i can turn the top light on and off , with top switch but if bottom is off they are both are off ?
Sounds like you reversed the two wires on the bottom switch. Make sure the hot wire goes on the side that feeds both switches.
Thank you sir!!!!!
My pleasure!
Thank you
My pleasure
So to be clear, the wire coming from light was a 14/2 and the wire coming from the outlet was a 14/3?
Yes, that was my example.
You told me everything I need to know except the thing I need to know: How to remove the tab if I have two hots.
The answer to this puzzle is brute force. I pried it up away from the surface with a screwdriver. With pliers, grabbed the tag and pulled and twisted and finally, it broke. Be sure the remnant has a clear break in the metal and you can see plastic. You should be aware of this point before you start, as it might fracture at the gap. It is easy to work the tab at the top, rather than grabbing it as close to the housing as you can get.
Oh sorry I didn’t show that. I just wiggle it back and forth with needle nose pliers.
Breaking that little tab was unnecessarily difficult... to the point that I thought I must be doing this wrong and was accidentally breaking the entire outlet. Brute force eventually worked, despite losing chunks of the little leverage I had as parts of the tab fell apart. Good luck!
Do you have a video that shows how to undo a double switch and replace with a regular switch and a timer switch, respectively?
No, that’s a bit too specific. But it would be much more cost-effective to leave the switch alone and just install a smart bulb to go on and off at a scheduled time.
@@handydadtvWell, one switch controls the light and the other the bathroom fan. Any way to make the fan "Smart"?
a.co/d/a93XjJ0?tag=ha0d9f-20
In my situation, the POWER is coming from the light fixture to the switch (one wire), the second wire is going from the switch to a receptacle. Previously the light was controlled by a pull string, I'm trying to install a new LED light and want to control it with the switch, but I also want the receptacle to have constant power. Can you help?
Consider a smart bulb
This is easy if you have all these wires properly colored. I have 3 black wires. Now i have to figure out which is which.
That’s the hard part.
Hello There, Can you make a video on how to add a back to back from the same electric switch. one inside the house the the other outside in the balcony, thanks.
The wiring basics are the same. I’m sure you can find an existing video about adding an outdoor outlet.
Where in the switch does the red cable go?
A red wire is typically a secondary hot found in 3-conductor cables. You need to know where it goes and what it powers before you connect it to the switch. It will likely get connected to one of the brass screws. But you shouldn’t guess. You need to KNOW. If you can’t confidently figure it out, please call an electrician.
My buddy always taught me black to gold , you never go cold ( hot wire to gold screw ) so much for that lol
👍🏻
What could cause my top switch to only work if the bottom is in the on position ?
Just a guess that you might have reversed the wires on the bottom. Use a voltage tester to determine the hot line that brings power into the box. That’s the one that needs to be on the common side of the switches.
@handydadtv that fixed it. Thanks for the help!
@reddevilfannn Awesome!
I have an older house built in 1961. I have 6 wires coming out of electrical box. When I wired up the new switch both switches turns on both lights and shuts off both lights 2 hot wires and 2 neutral wires
You reversed the wires. The hot wire should be on the common side.
I know this application needs 14/3 but you did not make mention of wiring requirements in this video
You can only use 14 gauge wire with a 15 amp circuit.
@@handydadtv right
What if I only have black and white
You’re out of luck