Go to ground.news/superfastmatt to become a smarter news consumer and see every side of every story. Subscribe through my link for 40% off unlimited access this month.
Matt, quick story, Don Garlits developing rear engine dragster, could not keep steering correct, dragster was very twitchy. Only when he changed the ratio of the steering box did the car become drivable.
That was a bit of surprise or shock even to see my ETC / DBW controller at SuperfastMatt landspeed car :) Let me know in case of any problems and thanks!
Awesome build. The key question for me is this: will you forget to take that NACA duct cover off before your first run? I know I would. In fact I believe it’s legally required.
@@matheuswohlhe could glue a rubber flag or something on it. Maybe something like one of those shark fin car antennas in bright orange or red as a pop up visual indicator. I can also think of other things not family friendly that is probably only funny to me but could also act as a handle to remove it.
my 15 years ongoing s13 trackday project agrees with that ... currently on jackstands again. It is 95% done ... and once it is done, i will have to work on aero since I nearly found terminal velocity but decided to back out before really reaching it. Note: stock bodied hatch s13 tries to take off at 149mph. Dont try 150.
Additional considerations, Fasteners for engine cover, we( safety/fire crew) have a multi tool that has duzz / allen tip/ flathead. Use fasteners that will allow us to access the engine bay during an incident. Inner finders, Salt packing damaged 2 stremliners during Test and tune( june) cutting there week short. Tire growth, leave room for the tires to expand at speed. I've hurd 3" expansion + salt packing. Nice to see what goes into preparing a rig for the Grate Wight Dyno.
Do streamliners not need fire ports? I get you don't want holes in your body, but I've seen rules in other motorsport categories allowing for punch through covers
@@SuperfastMatt I am sorry I do not recall what size flathead , I think it would work with the #4 . Did some looking on Google couldn't find it , but did see the alien type duzz are 3/16" if that helps. Having the fire ports setup to flange in at the front and a ¼turn fastener at the rear worked quite well. The burst panel was a 3×5 rectangular hole with tape over it , that aloud fire to stuff the extinguisher hose in to snuff it out. Driver reported that he didn't know there was a fire till he came to a stop at the return road and saw fire pulling up beside him and bail out with an extinguisher.
Matt replied this to my comment. I believe he intended to put this reply under your comment: "@SuperfastMatt 9 hours ago The engine cover fasteners are phillips #4 so any flathead up to 3/8" will work. Do you have any specific advice on avoiding salt pack? I have added 5/8" for tire growth; do you think that is enough?"
Can strongly recommend some fiberglass rollers. What you're doing with the brushes is a good way to get the epoxy on to the matting to start, but it will leave air EVERYWHERE so you should follow up with rollers. Just rolling it a couple of times will do wonders for overall saturation, and you'll get most of the air out from between/under the layers too. TotalBoat sell them too "laminating epoxy rollers" is what they have them listed as. (Source: I made body panels for race cars by hand using fiberglass)
It's cool to see total boat sponsor something that isn't another epoxy table. Also, wow, there's nothing like a deadline for boosting productivity. Looks like you've been flat out mate.
The amount of printed parts on this car brings me much joy 😊 Also I was wondering when you’re gonna get on the Boatal Toad gravy train. And here it is. Congrats!
Awesome Content! Just a thing to consider when blocking off the Wheels from the rest of the Car: maybe think of a way for the flinging salt to go to. Otherwise, you might get problems with salt filling up the Wheel spaces and in the worst case causing a crash at full speed...
Total boat is the best period. Their whole line of products are awesome. For wet layup like you’re doing you can buy unwaxed resin that stays sticky until your final coat when you just add in wax. Great partnership
I can totally understand why Matt wanted them as a sponsor. Have you priced any epoxy or fiberglass resin lately ? The cost is just astronomical. In my area the price has pretty much tripled in the past 4 years.
make sure you have no gaps on that firewall and I would add some of that expanding fire foam sealant to seal off anything in a fire. that damn kill switch at the back of the car is the stupidest idiot rule I've ever heard in my life yeah we moved our switch from where you could have got it to the back under one of our normal fires it was gone it melted and was entirely destroyed hell I had to get out of the ambulance to go and look for it because they couldn't get near it I still had my helmet on with an internal breathing apparatus on. had it been left on the side of the car next to the driver's compartment it would have been fine I set my car on fire entering mi 4 coast of five more miles still on fire go see 2011 Bonneville car 428 Fire. when I was younger I contemplated a K streamliner. in a nitro car we are used to having fire we thought we had it all covered if I were you that pneumatic tower sorry got to go. need any moral support I'm easy to find Chauvins Place Prescott AZ
Blink Once for: All Good / Twice for: “HELYP ME NYOW!” 😉😉 [Me]: “Gotcha x2 All Good, No hostage situation, wrap it up boys we’re going home he is super OK!”
I tip my hat to the editing and voice over. Can’t imagine he starts his projects with the intention to fail, in fact I believe he’s a gifted ingeneer. It’s his narration that sets this dry tone. Unfortunately it’s pointless to ship stickers overseas, but my sticker would read “Finished. Ish”
One of my professors at uni said some wise words, which stuck with me still. "There's no such thing as a finished project for an engineer. Only ones which reached the deadline"
While building my kit car, order of assembly is also something I am struggling with. The manual has you take 10 steps forward, only to tell you on the 11th step to go back to step 4 and install a bracket. Which, oh by the way, needs to be painted. Oh, and it gets in the way of where you mounted step 8. People hear "kit car" and think it goes together like Lego. In reality, they require immense patience, persistence and foresight. I would imagine that it is exponential in terms of effort when designing a car of your own. Props to you, Matt.
@Milkmans_Son yes, the 818 Coupe. Which, in their defense, did evolve quite a bit over the years. But I do think the manual could have been revised to be a little more clear and put in an order which makes the build more enjoyable.
@@BigDanSubaru03 i did a lot of FFR work for Gordon Levy for 4-5 years, the 1 car ill never work on again is the GTM, i can do hundreds of cobras and coupes all over again and be fine, but never that damn thing, though an awd 818r (maybe c for daily drivability in Arizona) would be a really fun build, the only other requirement would be the gen 1 front end, i very much dislike the gen 2
@calebb5106 I love the gen2 nose. I wasn't a fan of the Camry headlights. They are only RWD. The front suspension blocks the port on the spindles for the axles. The 818 also is currently on a production hold (as well as the GTM).
@@BigDanSubaru03 oh i know that it comes rwd only, but you see, i like building and modifying everything my grubbly lil hands touch to be exactly how i like it. I don't disagree that the gen 2 nose looks good, its great for airflow, but i like that the gen 1 headlights keeps it looking like a short sleek sports car while the gen 2 headlights just looks taller/longer. if i could id go that front edge down be gen 2 nose for airflow while edge up gen 1 headlights, i think that would make it look very nice
5:35 Lock nuts may not have enough threads for good retention. 12:54 A hose clamp self aligns giving you a line to trace. A wide hose clamp with holes will allow you to line them up and spot weld.
I work on high-end medical equipment that uses medium pressure cooling. We gave up on worm-type hose clamps and use the single-use crimp-on style clamps like the ones used in residential plumbing. We use the brand Oetiker and they never fail. You can easily use two of them also. we've had trouble with worm-type clamps. Do you have a plan for limiting salt build-up in the inner fender area?
Tread carefully with McMaster sprocket and gear CADs. Long time ago, this place I used to work at were using lots of sprockets and I noticed some of the models were really wonky and there was no way to easily swap sizes when designing machinery. I decided to make my own sprocket model with configurations for all sizes. For the tooth shape I took the geometry out of the Machinery's Handbook and plugged all the variables in a sketch and linked them with the equations shown in the book. It took a good part of a Friday to get it done but in the end it paid for itself real quick when we had to swap sprocket sizes and not have to fix broken mates. Or when we didn't have the size in CAD and all you had to do is add a configuration and punch in the proper number of teeth. Gears are the same, they might look close but they don't have the proper volute profile and they will bind if you try to get anything with a bit of high precision out of the CAD models.
Yeah, I design machinery for a living and also got caught up using a mcmaster CAD once, in the end I made a configurable one where the involute curve is an equation driven curve, those worked perfectly and I can just add configurations as I need them
@@G60syncro Ironically not fully, I really wanted one when I made that account and my family combined had a ton of em.. but I ended up with an A4 and a 135i.
I assume that McMaster-Carr offers these CAD files only to plan assemblies, not to manufacture sprockets and gears, so the accuracy of the tooth form shouldn't matter.
@@brianb-p6586 exactly... I was in a situation where it did matter and these easy free CAD files couldn't be trusted. So that's why I'm putting out the warning not to trust them 100% for your home made parts with either CNC mill or 3D printing.
Very enjoyable humor aside, your clear processes communicated well and the real world of creativity options employed are commendable. You clearly communicate the creative process well.
If you get it up early, there is another date available. World of Speed. September 6-9,2024. Smaller car count( means more potential runs and wait times). As part of the safety crew your thinking about our safety during an indecent is massive, thank you.
For the rear cover look at how kit planes use hinges with a removable long pin to fasten engine cowlings. It’s lightweight and provides full seam fastening.
I love how you had _one_ important metric to go on the top gauge cluster (speed, obvs) and then just... "other less important stuff" xD "Yeah, speed's up to 130mph, and uuh, yeah, looks like I've still got four minutes on my cup ramen, so we're good on that one, too"
@8:38 "... the 12 volt cooling fan for the electronics will come later." I sincerely hope that this does not become ominous foreshadowing. Back when I was racing an E Production MGB, I put this step off "until later", forgot it entirely and roasted a fancy MSD spark thingie, giving me my first and only mechanical dnf.
There will be a lot of salt being flung about / getting stuck in a small encapsulated space where the front wheels are spinning. Be careful that no big chunks suddenly fall off, and come under a wheel? Great video!
I’ve used TotalBoat epoxy and expanding foam fill and had excellent results. Anybody who doesn’t achieve similar results will almost certainly be due to user error in mixing or ordering the wrong product for their use case. 4years after first purchasing the epoxy I had another chance to finish off the rest of the product it worked just as great as when I first bought it. My garage while non-conditioned maintains a temperature of 50/60F most the year with low 40’s winter and high 70’s summer so it was in a pretty stable environment which might have helped. They do run more expensive than other options but their products are meant for marine environments and withstand the impact of waves so you know you will be getting a product that will live up to whatever you’re planning to use it for.
I restored a Gheenoe a few years ago and used Total Boat products. It was my first time working with fiberglass and it turned out great. SFM videos always brighten my day.
Good Luck! Good video. As far as sealing the car from the elements (salt), again good luck. Fine dust will make its way in. One thing us boaters learn on the west coast is that when you haul your boat out and the engine has cooled, remove the cowling and spray everything with WD40. To me this product has two uses. One as water displacement. And secondly as a temporary stop gap to keep salt from doing it's thing. And it's environmentally friendly. Cheers
if a project is finished that means youve given up or sold it projects never finish you always think of better things to do on the project and diffrent ways to redo things
Hey I've finished my bicycle project! Until I find some better cranks that is. And I'm probably changing my headlight too. Wheels need some trueing soon. OK fine, you're right.
Matt, want you to know that I truly love your content, it has just the rite amount of everything it needs and no more! They’re perfect! I work with engineers, I am their hourly proof of concept person, the hands on person, all are good people, few have personality (always so serious!). The few enjoy car building as a hobby and they come up with extremely unique concepts that actually work… just like yourself! So yes, your content is always appreciated! Thank you for sharing!
Excellent job. I especially like the ever present salt film on what appears to be about 85% of the frame and all other components. Minus the new body, but it'll get it's very own coat of sodium soon I hope! Honestly, always look forward to a new SFM superfastmatt video. Very entertaining to say the least; educational too, for the win.
I think he was saying a 12v fan specifically for electronics cooling. But yeah, the openish tail area at the back should be pulling quite a bit of air through the engine bay, depending on how good of an inlet there is.
Happy to sit down with my coffee and find another installation of this series! I was wondering if I could SendCutSend a sprocket that was strong enough to handle the forces for a chain drive differential and now I know, maybe (probably). I'm not an engineer, so it's worth a shot. The McMaster-Carr pro-tip was an added easter egg for me. Thanks, Matt, again!
I have resolved the "never done" issue by making a few decisions. The important one was to use my label maker and to change my category system simpler. I threw out all the folders but one and labelled it, "Permanent Prototypes". All my projects were moved to that folder and now I have zero expectation of needing any of them to ever be... finished.
Speaking of things made from plastic being strong enough … I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm (Choada Crowla) and the retractable cup holder is fine. It was designed to hold coffee cups (evident from the radio placement right above). We regularly use it to hold two 24 oz stainless water bottles. Sure, the rubberish flappy bit for holding smaller cups in place is long since sun-baked to nothing, but the retractable frame is still fine. Surprisingly so. When that breaks, I'm selling it.
Idea... wouldn't it be wise to make some brush mats at the back of the wheels? I see them a lot in The Netherlands on trucks, to "clean" the wheels and prevent stones swinging around... It could absorb some salt and keep your wheels clean.
salt is sticky it's wet and sticky you don't want to confine it will come out unexpectedly upsetting you're run are tires may be smooth but that shit still sticks even at 300
TotalBoat is just owning it in the UA-cam scene, I've lost count of the number and variety of different folks I watch who use their products (and are typically sponsored by them as well).
Sometimes Matt puts out a video that reminds us all of how wicked smart he is. This is one of those videos. Neat job, Matt. Can you make this thing fuckin go already?
Great video as always Matt. I too have a project car that will be done five years ago. Now it is covered with other project boxes dealing with Nixie clocks, firearms, and of course an RC project. Almost forgot about the turbocharger jet engine that will be done ten years ago.
For ceramic coating, get Swain Tech White Lightning. It's the best-performing ceramic coat. If you don't like the way it looks, you can paint the coating with silver or black VHT and cure it in the oven.
If you actually want to keep the heat in the exhaust, it is worth ceramic coating (Jethot only) the interior and wrapping the exterior. The combination is AMAZING at retaining exhaust heat and keeping it off things that are melty. I've used stainless, cast iron and steel pipes and have no problem with corrosion from the wrap if you spray the pipe with dry graphite and then spray the wrap with the same after it is installed; this works a treat and withstands the heat with no problems.
you would be about 100% right any heat will ignite a single drop of oil that is now whipped into a frenzy you may think you have sealed the engine compartment 0 how wrong you would be. at over 200 mph a drop of oil becomes a mess sprayed around the engine compartment add heat now you're on fire all your hoses gone in a flash get the red kind that's fireproof yes they make 1/4 inch or whatever hose you wish that's fireproof that does not mean it will not melt anytime you have a question get your torch and try it all the things that you are afraid might go wrong probably will. I don't see enough fire extinguishers don't forget the very last one better be for your cockpit.
my only disagreement would be to spray anything on the wrapping of the exhaust clean and dry do not try to treat it in any way it gets dirty use mineral spirits and allow it to dry otherwise you can also use soap and water after the mineral spirits there is not time to allow it to dry don't worry about it. just so there's no oil.
@@chauvinemmons graphite doesn’t burn and it doesn’t rust and it allows the wrap to move around on the exhaust so there isn’t any wear associated with the friction of expansion and contraction. Mineral spirits are a highly flammable oil, so spraying mineral spirits on a wrap is really not a good idea.
Did you tone down the sarcasm for this video? Nope...I will have to watch it again because I was laughing my head off for most of this video. Keep up the very excellent work!
I did my first SendCutSend project! I’m putting and ‘07 Silverado steering rack in my ‘66 Chevy truck. I needed a bracket for the end of the rack. It turned out great! That serviceability thing… it’s like the same idiot put the rack in this truck! Can’t bolt the rack in with the hydraulic lines on it. It’s going to take a special wrench to tighten the lines up.
It's not likely you'll have any issues with your current setup, but from the Aviation world one nice thing to include once you have covers that must be removed before operation is a nice big red or yellow "remove before operation" flag. Additionally, locking ball detent pins for all the screws that will be removed frequently will save you a lot of time. I would prefer a locking ball detent pin (with a flat for locking the orientation) with a t-handle over the threaded boss to remove the engine cover and one for the removable duct cover.
Matt, I'm rematching this video with plans to re watch the windshield video. I recall you made an oven to get the plastic up to temperature. Have you considered using a heat blanket to bring the plastic up to temperature. In the composites world we use heat blankets to post cure epoxy resins. I have some that use a PID controller that have a flexible silicone blanket. This may work
Honestly people dont give plastic enough credit when it comes to durability. I wear glasses and I always avoided plastic frames due to worrying about them breaking so I got metal ones. But the metal kept weakening over time then breaking in certain spots. When I went to replace them I was hesitant to the clerk about getting plastic frames til she grabbed a pair and forcibly folded it in half at the nose rest, and then watched as it sprung back to how it was before.
There is a velomobile that competes in the British human power club that is damn near identical to your design. In fact, it's so close to design that the only reason I clicked on your video was because your thumbnail led me to believe it was a reworked version of his velomobile.
I love the idea of wanting a NACA duct, so design and print one, with a template for the cut and a cover with a built in tool holder. I just need to get better at the computer work.
OK, so we realise your schtick is self-deprecation and sarcasm about your skills and methods, and we dig it, its good fun. However, I'm sure most people continue to watch your productions because (contrary to your delivery) you do cool stuff, give and take good ideas and generally inspire the rest of us tinkerers to believe we can do it ourselves. Keep it coming.
Have you considered routing waterlines and spray nozzles through the body so that after coating the car in salt you can hook it up to a hose/pump and wash off most salt before packing/trailering?
Go to ground.news/superfastmatt to become a smarter news consumer and see every side of every story. Subscribe through my link for 40% off unlimited access this month.
Your not the Matt that spent a bit of his youth in Cambria are you?
Matt, quick story, Don Garlits developing rear engine dragster, could not keep steering correct, dragster was very twitchy. Only when he changed the ratio of the steering box did the car become drivable.
only 5% independent sources reporting on the tesla whatchamacallits, I think ground news helps identify topics that nobody cares about :)
@@MatthewHolevinski maybe it's because only 5% of people own a tesla whatchamcallit
Matt, please consider salt packing when making the wheelhouses!
That was a bit of surprise or shock even to see my ETC / DBW controller at SuperfastMatt landspeed car :) Let me know in case of any problems and thanks!
hey it's that guy from the video!
I love your cat!
@@kekke2000 hey it's the guy from the comment!
POLAND: Not forgotten
@@Iwannabuyabugatti thank you, I'll let Hana know :)
Sometimes I like to coat myself in fiberglass and epoxy and pretend I'm a racecar.
Must be the fumes
Weird but not a sin
You can be anything you put your mind to
Sounds good as long as you forget about the bit with the hardened rod.
Sometimes i cover myself with sheets of metal and pretend i'm an attack helicopter
No officer, the white powder on my dash board is from “scanning”
I chuckled at that point too....busted!
I had a cop ask me about the white powder from a battery that was in my trunk and I told him he should taste it. :)
He's starting a second channel, SuperhighMatt
This rolled up hundo is a _probe_
@@noanyobiseniss7462😂🤣
That 3d printed NACA duct and cover piece is "chef's kiss"
Stop commenting in peoples video and upload a video already…jk 😂😂 but for real we need more videos from you.
haha, kid named finger
Wait til you see his ham sandwich body filler
We miss you Ronny, take your time but don't take your time
I would love to see a colab between you two. It would be funny as hell I think
Awesome build. The key question for me is this: will you forget to take that NACA duct cover off before your first run? I know I would. In fact I believe it’s legally required.
It does need a remove before flight tag
@@SuperfastMatt maybe a sticker lol
@@matheuswohlhe could glue a rubber flag or something on it. Maybe something like one of those shark fin car antennas in bright orange or red as a pop up visual indicator. I can also think of other things not family friendly that is probably only funny to me but could also act as a handle to remove it.
@@sumduma55Great idea! I wonder if that would vibrate going down the road? Or cause some kind of surging or thrusting motion.
@@sumduma55 I think its' funny too
Can't wait for the @DStageGarage guys to wake up tomorrow and wonder why they got so many new subs :D
He has 996 subscribers as of writing, do you think he'll have 10x in a few days?
@@Daweim0 He already has 1.13k. so 10% in a couple of hours, yes that's a big change.
1.27k still going up👍
1.37k now!
1.41k!
Project cars are never finished, they only make hold points where the next design iteration is developed
video title from 2027: The Project Car of Theseus
my 15 years ongoing s13 trackday project agrees with that ... currently on jackstands again. It is 95% done ... and once it is done, i will have to work on aero since I nearly found terminal velocity but decided to back out before really reaching it. Note: stock bodied hatch s13 tries to take off at 149mph. Dont try 150.
What you mean is the next design iritation
Additional considerations,
Fasteners for engine cover, we( safety/fire crew) have a multi tool that has duzz / allen tip/ flathead. Use fasteners that will allow us to access the engine bay during an incident.
Inner finders,
Salt packing damaged 2 stremliners during Test and tune( june) cutting there week short.
Tire growth, leave room for the tires to expand at speed. I've hurd 3" expansion + salt packing.
Nice to see what goes into preparing a rig for the Grate Wight Dyno.
Do streamliners not need fire ports? I get you don't want holes in your body, but I've seen rules in other motorsport categories allowing for punch through covers
@nelsonglover3963 yes, 1 on each side. The car I had to deal with had a burst panel that poped when it lit off .
@daviddroescher What size flathead? The engine cover uses Phillips #4 so you can use larger flatheads on it.
@@SuperfastMatt I am sorry I do not recall what size flathead , I think it would work with the #4 . Did some looking on Google couldn't find it , but did see the alien type duzz are 3/16" if that helps.
Having the fire ports setup to flange in at the front and a ¼turn fastener at the rear worked quite well. The burst panel was a 3×5 rectangular hole with tape over it , that aloud fire to stuff the extinguisher hose in to snuff it out. Driver reported that he didn't know there was a fire till he came to a stop at the return road and saw fire pulling up beside him and bail out with an extinguisher.
Matt replied this to my comment. I believe he intended to put this reply under your comment: "@SuperfastMatt
9 hours ago
The engine cover fasteners are phillips #4 so any flathead up to 3/8" will work.
Do you have any specific advice on avoiding salt pack?
I have added 5/8" for tire growth; do you think that is enough?"
Can strongly recommend some fiberglass rollers. What you're doing with the brushes is a good way to get the epoxy on to the matting to start, but it will leave air EVERYWHERE so you should follow up with rollers. Just rolling it a couple of times will do wonders for overall saturation, and you'll get most of the air out from between/under the layers too. TotalBoat sell them too "laminating epoxy rollers" is what they have them listed as. (Source: I made body panels for race cars by hand using fiberglass)
Second this^
Disc rollers for woven and stitched. Paddle rollers for unidirectional.
It's cool to see total boat sponsor something that isn't another epoxy table. Also, wow, there's nothing like a deadline for boosting productivity. Looks like you've been flat out mate.
They seemingly sponsor Xyla foxlin a bunch. she makes all sorts of stuff.
The amount of printed parts on this car brings me much joy 😊 Also I was wondering when you’re gonna get on the Boatal Toad gravy train. And here it is. Congrats!
3D printer has been WAY more useful than I was expecting.
When all is well, you get to only deal with the design part of the equation. Magical.
Stuff made here said if he could keep 1 tool in his workshop it would be the 3D printer. Maybe its time i buy one too
@@Rooachie I finally did, and half the time I'm heading for the lathe or milling machine, I turn around and make a 3D print instead.
@@RooachieI have one and I highly recommend it. Wait till the holiday season and you can find them with steep discounts.
Awesome Content! Just a thing to consider when blocking off the Wheels from the rest of the Car: maybe think of a way for the flinging salt to go to. Otherwise, you might get problems with salt filling up the Wheel spaces and in the worst case causing a crash at full speed...
Total boat is the best period. Their whole line of products are awesome. For wet layup like you’re doing you can buy unwaxed resin that stays sticky until your final coat when you just add in wax. Great partnership
I can totally understand why Matt wanted them as a sponsor. Have you priced any epoxy or fiberglass resin lately ? The cost is just astronomical. In my area the price has pretty much tripled in the past 4 years.
It's odd to hear it called Total Boat and not Botal Toat
you got to have some suspension or you will never go as fast as you think you want to
make sure you have no gaps on that firewall and I would add some of that expanding fire foam sealant to seal off anything in a fire.
that damn kill switch at the back of the car is the stupidest idiot rule I've ever heard in my life yeah we moved our switch from where you could have got it to the back under one of our normal fires it was gone it melted and was entirely destroyed hell I had to get out of the ambulance to go and look for it because they couldn't get near it I still had my helmet on with an internal breathing apparatus on.
had it been left on the side of the car next to the driver's compartment it would have been fine I set my car on fire entering mi 4 coast of five more miles still on fire
go see 2011 Bonneville car 428 Fire.
when I was younger I contemplated a K streamliner.
in a nitro car we are used to having fire we thought we had it all covered if I were you that pneumatic tower sorry got to go.
need any moral support I'm easy to find Chauvins Place Prescott AZ
I think he means BotalToat ... Shout out to Xyla Foxlin!
Blink twice if Ground news is holding you hostage.
Maybe they told him to make more videos, I'm ok with that.
Is that blink biased to the left or to the right?
Blink Once for: All Good /
Twice for: “HELYP ME NYOW!”
😉😉
[Me]: “Gotcha x2 All Good, No hostage situation, wrap it up boys we’re going home he is super OK!”
I tip my hat to the editing and voice over. Can’t imagine he starts his projects with the intention to fail, in fact I believe he’s a gifted ingeneer. It’s his narration that sets this dry tone. Unfortunately it’s pointless to ship stickers overseas, but my sticker would read “Finished. Ish”
You mean finISHed ;) that’s a great sticker idea
Thanks to you my 57 ongoing project car proudly displays Certified Good Enough on the rear window.
Love it!
One of my professors at uni said some wise words, which stuck with me still.
"There's no such thing as a finished project for an engineer. Only ones which reached the deadline"
While building my kit car, order of assembly is also something I am struggling with. The manual has you take 10 steps forward, only to tell you on the 11th step to go back to step 4 and install a bracket. Which, oh by the way, needs to be painted. Oh, and it gets in the way of where you mounted step 8. People hear "kit car" and think it goes together like Lego. In reality, they require immense patience, persistence and foresight. I would imagine that it is exponential in terms of effort when designing a car of your own. Props to you, Matt.
Factory Five?
@Milkmans_Son yes, the 818 Coupe. Which, in their defense, did evolve quite a bit over the years. But I do think the manual could have been revised to be a little more clear and put in an order which makes the build more enjoyable.
@@BigDanSubaru03 i did a lot of FFR work for Gordon Levy for 4-5 years, the 1 car ill never work on again is the GTM, i can do hundreds of cobras and coupes all over again and be fine, but never that damn thing, though an awd 818r (maybe c for daily drivability in Arizona) would be a really fun build, the only other requirement would be the gen 1 front end, i very much dislike the gen 2
@calebb5106 I love the gen2 nose. I wasn't a fan of the Camry headlights. They are only RWD. The front suspension blocks the port on the spindles for the axles. The 818 also is currently on a production hold (as well as the GTM).
@@BigDanSubaru03 oh i know that it comes rwd only, but you see, i like building and modifying everything my grubbly lil hands touch to be exactly how i like it.
I don't disagree that the gen 2 nose looks good, its great for airflow, but i like that the gen 1 headlights keeps it looking like a short sleek sports car while the gen 2 headlights just looks taller/longer. if i could id go that front edge down be gen 2 nose for airflow while edge up gen 1 headlights, i think that would make it look very nice
5:35
Lock nuts may not have enough threads for good retention.
12:54
A hose clamp self aligns giving you a line to trace. A wide hose clamp with holes will allow you to line them up and spot weld.
So happy to help out with car! We can't wait to see it drive!
I work on high-end medical equipment that uses medium pressure cooling. We gave up on worm-type hose clamps and use the single-use crimp-on style clamps like the ones used in residential plumbing. We use the brand Oetiker and they never fail. You can easily use two of them also. we've had trouble with worm-type clamps.
Do you have a plan for limiting salt build-up in the inner fender area?
I'm guessing Matt handed that off to Future Matt to solve
Tread carefully with McMaster sprocket and gear CADs. Long time ago, this place I used to work at were using lots of sprockets and I noticed some of the models were really wonky and there was no way to easily swap sizes when designing machinery. I decided to make my own sprocket model with configurations for all sizes. For the tooth shape I took the geometry out of the Machinery's Handbook and plugged all the variables in a sketch and linked them with the equations shown in the book.
It took a good part of a Friday to get it done but in the end it paid for itself real quick when we had to swap sprocket sizes and not have to fix broken mates. Or when we didn't have the size in CAD and all you had to do is add a configuration and punch in the proper number of teeth.
Gears are the same, they might look close but they don't have the proper volute profile and they will bind if you try to get anything with a bit of high precision out of the CAD models.
Yeah, I design machinery for a living and also got caught up using a mcmaster CAD once, in the end I made a configurable one where the involute curve is an equation driven curve, those worked perfectly and I can just add configurations as I need them
@@Kevgti5 Those who know will know!! I'm also guessing the gti in your handle makes you a fellow veedubber as well!
@@G60syncro Ironically not fully, I really wanted one when I made that account and my family combined had a ton of em.. but I ended up with an A4 and a 135i.
I assume that McMaster-Carr offers these CAD files only to plan assemblies, not to manufacture sprockets and gears, so the accuracy of the tooth form shouldn't matter.
@@brianb-p6586 exactly... I was in a situation where it did matter and these easy free CAD files couldn't be trusted. So that's why I'm putting out the warning not to trust them 100% for your home made parts with either CNC mill or 3D printing.
Very enjoyable humor aside, your clear processes communicated well and the real world of creativity options employed are commendable. You clearly communicate the creative process well.
Thanks for letting us know that you're still around and predictably behind schedule. Looking forward to seeing this puppy on the flats!
Just seeing that thumbnail makes me so happy, great job getting this far Matt!!
If you get it up early, there is another date available. World of Speed. September 6-9,2024. Smaller car count( means more potential runs and wait times).
As part of the safety crew your thinking about our safety during an indecent is massive, thank you.
For the rear cover look at how kit planes use hinges with a removable long pin to fasten engine cowlings. It’s lightweight and provides full seam fastening.
I love how you had _one_ important metric to go on the top gauge cluster (speed, obvs) and then just... "other less important stuff" xD "Yeah, speed's up to 130mph, and uuh, yeah, looks like I've still got four minutes on my cup ramen, so we're good on that one, too"
Probably temperatures, it's a pretty useful thing to have.
@8:38 "... the 12 volt cooling fan for the electronics will come later." I sincerely hope that this does not become ominous foreshadowing. Back when I was racing an E Production MGB, I put this step off "until later", forgot it entirely and roasted a fancy MSD spark thingie, giving me my first and only mechanical dnf.
There will be a lot of salt being flung about / getting stuck in a small encapsulated space where the front wheels are spinning. Be careful that no big chunks suddenly fall off, and come under a wheel? Great video!
This has grown to be my favorite UA-cam channel! It’s fun, entertaining and we learn stuff! Perfect
I’ve used TotalBoat epoxy and expanding foam fill and had excellent results. Anybody who doesn’t achieve similar results will almost certainly be due to user error in mixing or ordering the wrong product for their use case.
4years after first purchasing the epoxy I had another chance to finish off the rest of the product it worked just as great as when I first bought it. My garage while non-conditioned maintains a temperature of 50/60F most the year with low 40’s winter and high 70’s summer so it was in a pretty stable environment which might have helped. They do run more expensive than other options but their products are meant for marine environments and withstand the impact of waves so you know you will be getting a product that will live up to whatever you’re planning to use it for.
The salt was very good at Speedweek, both tracks all week. The weather was great except that everyday was 100+ but no rain or wind.
I restored a Gheenoe a few years ago and used Total Boat products. It was my first time working with fiberglass and it turned out great. SFM videos always brighten my day.
16:40 admit it this is just a "note to self" when you go back to see what that hell you were thinking when you came to a "problem for future matt"
You validate my existence as a non finisher finisher
Good Luck! Good video. As far as sealing the car from the elements (salt), again good luck. Fine dust will make its way in. One thing us boaters learn on the west coast is that when you haul your boat out and the engine has cooled, remove the cowling and spray everything with WD40. To me this product has two uses. One as water displacement. And secondly as a temporary stop gap to keep salt from doing it's thing. And it's environmentally friendly. Cheers
if a project is finished that means youve given up or sold it
projects never finish you always think of better things to do on the project and diffrent ways to redo things
Hey I've finished my bicycle project! Until I find some better cranks that is. And I'm probably changing my headlight too. Wheels need some trueing soon. OK fine, you're right.
@@Lolwutfordawin XDD and once your done all that the list renews !!
my rover sd1 was a quick project 3 years ago lol still hasn't driven yet
Matt, want you to know that I truly love your content, it has just the rite amount of everything it needs and no more! They’re perfect!
I work with engineers, I am their hourly proof of concept person, the hands on person, all are good people, few have personality (always so serious!). The few enjoy car building as a hobby and they come up with extremely unique concepts that actually work… just like yourself!
So yes, your content is always appreciated! Thank you for sharing!
Fair compound. my bread and butter. My full time job was apply fairing compound to boats while they were being built
The incredible amount of work you have put into this is obvious. Kudos!
Amazing! I never before appreciated just how much work goes into purpose built race cars.
Excellent job. I especially like the ever present salt film on what appears to be about 85% of the frame and all other components. Minus the new body, but it'll get it's very own coat of sodium soon I hope! Honestly, always look forward to a new SFM superfastmatt video. Very entertaining to say the least; educational too, for the win.
FWIW, I've used a zip-tie on exhaust to mark where I want to cut. When it's tight, it's pretty close to being forced to be an exact circle.
Instead of 12v fan for engine bay cooling, I would use exhaust flow to create some air draw. But it may even work that way as is now.
I think he was saying a 12v fan specifically for electronics cooling. But yeah, the openish tail area at the back should be pulling quite a bit of air through the engine bay, depending on how good of an inlet there is.
Happy to sit down with my coffee and find another installation of this series! I was wondering if I could SendCutSend a sprocket that was strong enough to handle the forces for a chain drive differential and now I know, maybe (probably). I'm not an engineer, so it's worth a shot. The McMaster-Carr pro-tip was an added easter egg for me. Thanks, Matt, again!
Thanks!
Matt - it's looking fantastic! So great to see all the progress you've made. I wish you the best luck for your upcoming speed runs on the salt.
I love every single video, and your tongue in cheek narration. Thank you super fast Matt,
I love you're never-ending the enter. It's like one long run on sentence 😊
I cant Wait until this thing is
gotta love them friendly people on the internet who make create things and then just let people have them...
Great intro 😆 I love this build 💪
I am working on the steering for my V12 build 😎 keep up the good work
I have resolved the "never done" issue by making a few decisions. The important one was to use my label maker and to change my category system simpler. I threw out all the folders but one and labelled it, "Permanent Prototypes". All my projects were moved to that folder and now I have zero expectation of needing any of them to ever be... finished.
Speaking of things made from plastic being strong enough … I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm (Choada Crowla) and the retractable cup holder is fine. It was designed to hold coffee cups (evident from the radio placement right above). We regularly use it to hold two 24 oz stainless water bottles.
Sure, the rubberish flappy bit for holding smaller cups in place is long since sun-baked to nothing, but the retractable frame is still fine. Surprisingly so.
When that breaks, I'm selling it.
As a Bonneville vet in cars and bikes, I LOVE this build. Best of luck at World Finals.
Sooo good. Looking forward to September even more now!
Idea... wouldn't it be wise to make some brush mats at the back of the wheels? I see them a lot in The Netherlands on trucks, to "clean" the wheels and prevent stones swinging around... It could absorb some salt and keep your wheels clean.
I believe the brush mats are not there for cleaning but better splash prevention than "flat" mats
i think that a smooth inner fender will help avoid accumulation
Brush mats sound fun at 300kph
salt is sticky it's wet and sticky you don't want to confine it will come out unexpectedly upsetting you're run are tires may be smooth but that shit still sticks even at 300
Best of luck in fulfilling your need for speed, and thanks for taking us along on the journey so far!
Good Luck! Be safe! Looking forward to seeing it.
The progress you've made lately is impressive!
I like your sense of humor as much as the mechanical stuff. Keep going!!!
TotalBoat is just owning it in the UA-cam scene, I've lost count of the number and variety of different folks I watch who use their products (and are typically sponsored by them as well).
"Funnished". 😆
995 Subscribers for DStage when you made this video, now he's at 10x that just 12 hours after the release of this video, awesome!
Sometimes Matt puts out a video that reminds us all of how wicked smart he is. This is one of those videos. Neat job, Matt. Can you make this thing fuckin go already?
Great video as always Matt. I too have a project car that will be done five years ago. Now it is covered with other project boxes dealing with Nixie clocks, firearms, and of course an RC project. Almost forgot about the turbocharger jet engine that will be done ten years ago.
For ceramic coating, get Swain Tech White Lightning. It's the best-performing ceramic coat. If you don't like the way it looks, you can paint the coating with silver or black VHT and cure it in the oven.
I subscribed to DStage 👍 Also: I don't mind a grab-bag episode like this. It's fun to see a blitz of small problem-solving outcomes sometimes.
I'm all for bad ideas that are (hopefully) good enough, these times. You keep inspiring me ;)
Wow, that’s a lot of work in this video. Looking forward to September for you!
Love it! Can't wait to see it all done, but loving the content of the journey. Keep up the great videos @SuperfastMatt
Hell yea, coming together real nice
If you actually want to keep the heat in the exhaust, it is worth ceramic coating (Jethot only) the interior and wrapping the exterior. The combination is AMAZING at retaining exhaust heat and keeping it off things that are melty. I've used stainless, cast iron and steel pipes and have no problem with corrosion from the wrap if you spray the pipe with dry graphite and then spray the wrap with the same after it is installed; this works a treat and withstands the heat with no problems.
you would be about 100% right any heat will ignite a single drop of oil that is now whipped into a frenzy you may think you have sealed the engine compartment 0 how wrong you would be.
at over 200 mph a drop of oil becomes a mess sprayed around the engine compartment add heat now you're on fire all your hoses gone in a flash get the red kind that's fireproof yes they make 1/4 inch or whatever hose you wish that's fireproof that does not mean it will not melt anytime you have a question get your torch and try it all the things that you are afraid might go wrong probably will. I don't see enough fire extinguishers don't forget the very last one better be for your cockpit.
my only disagreement would be to spray anything on the wrapping of the exhaust clean and dry do not try to treat it in any way it gets dirty use mineral spirits and allow it to dry otherwise you can also use soap and water after the mineral spirits there is not time to allow it to dry don't worry about it. just so there's no oil.
@@chauvinemmons graphite doesn’t burn and it doesn’t rust and it allows the wrap to move around on the exhaust so there isn’t any wear associated with the friction of expansion and contraction. Mineral spirits are a highly flammable oil, so spraying mineral spirits on a wrap is really not a good idea.
Did you tone down the sarcasm for this video? Nope...I will have to watch it again because I was laughing my head off for most of this video.
Keep up the very excellent work!
I did my first SendCutSend project! I’m putting and ‘07 Silverado steering rack in my ‘66 Chevy truck. I needed a bracket for the end of the rack. It turned out great!
That serviceability thing… it’s like the same idiot put the rack in this truck! Can’t bolt the rack in with the hydraulic lines on it. It’s going to take a special wrench to tighten the lines up.
wow. Matt actually making solid progress. incredible. Looking forward to the next video where he inevitably goes on a sidequest.
It's not likely you'll have any issues with your current setup, but from the Aviation world one nice thing to include once you have covers that must be removed before operation is a nice big red or yellow "remove before operation" flag. Additionally, locking ball detent pins for all the screws that will be removed frequently will save you a lot of time. I would prefer a locking ball detent pin (with a flat for locking the orientation) with a t-handle over the threaded boss to remove the engine cover and one for the removable duct cover.
in a vertical orientation: BOLT ON TOP! Nut on bottom.
ABSOLUTELY.
Unfortunately, the engineer in charge of this made it difficult to install it that way.
@@SuperfastMattThat engineer must be a total buffoon. Just like the rest of us.
@@SuperfastMatt He sounds like a jerk. You should have a talk with him.
Thanks Matt - great vid + finish the Jag!
It would look kool painted like a snek.
No step on snek
These videos are never not the best part of my day! Awesome as always!
Sweet to see this and Alex Taylor's 200mph check ride video release simultaneously!
Was happy to see you buying a 3D printer, it's so fun to see someone else also realize how usefull that thing is!
I like to leave the last 20% of a project for the future so that I have something to do when I am bored.
Really enjoy your videos Matt, thank you for making them :)
Matt, I'm rematching this video with plans to re watch the windshield video. I recall you made an oven to get the plastic up to temperature. Have you considered using a heat blanket to bring the plastic up to temperature. In the composites world we use heat blankets to post cure epoxy resins. I have some that use a PID controller that have a flexible silicone blanket. This may work
Be a youtuber they said, it'll be easy they said.
Lots and lots of work got done in this video! Car looks insane!
Honestly people dont give plastic enough credit when it comes to durability. I wear glasses and I always avoided plastic frames due to worrying about them breaking so I got metal ones. But the metal kept weakening over time then breaking in certain spots. When I went to replace them I was hesitant to the clerk about getting plastic frames til she grabbed a pair and forcibly folded it in half at the nose rest, and then watched as it sprung back to how it was before.
Good choice in printer I got the same and love it put over 1000h on it still working perfectly 👌
There is a velomobile that competes in the British human power club that is damn near identical to your design. In fact, it's so close to design that the only reason I clicked on your video was because your thumbnail led me to believe it was a reworked version of his velomobile.
5:36: 😂😂 100% absolutely true.
Today I repaired an electric go kart I’d built for my kids.
I love the idea of wanting a NACA duct, so design and print one, with a template for the cut and a cover with a built in tool holder. I just need to get better at the computer work.
That car looks so unbelievably badass with the body in the shop. Keep up the good work, you have a sinister creation
I wonder how ground news would rank the forbidden app as a news source because that's where I get my news from 😂
Looks alot like the GRX from the 1967 Speed Racer
This is going to be such a cool car, can't wait to see it 'finished'.
OK, so we realise your schtick is self-deprecation and sarcasm about your skills and methods, and we dig it, its good fun. However, I'm sure most people continue to watch your productions because (contrary to your delivery) you do cool stuff, give and take good ideas and generally inspire the rest of us tinkerers to believe we can do it ourselves. Keep it coming.
Have you considered routing waterlines and spray nozzles through the body so that after coating the car in salt you can hook it up to a hose/pump and wash off most salt before packing/trailering?