I have my dads ... from the early 70's. used off n on thru the years. put a longer bar on it some years back. Last year, wouldn't start. After watching this, I'll rebuild the carb, get it going, and sell it. A fine chain saw. I just like the safety aspects of my new one. thanks for making this video.
tobroken1965 - The short story on my saw was that the previous owner couldn't get it running. It was given to me with the common statement 'it's yours if you can get it running'. It sat in the corner of my garage for 'forever and a day' but yesterday I decided to give it a go. The carb was gummed up with a white gunk...but some carb cleaner made quick work of it. After all was said and done, she runs like a champ. I need to get a new tank gasket (at some point in a previous life the tank was reassembled with rtv - and that has the consistency of jelly now. But we are 90% there. Thanks again.
Yes I found this very useful. Thanks for sharing. I've got a 7-10 which I assume has the same SDC Walbro, and I got it used and probably should clean the carburetor also.
Need to check the metering arm and make sure it’s the appropriate height, you can bend the arm or stretch the spring under it. Being you are using the original spring and not a new one I’d highly suggest stretching that spring at least one coil worth with is very little. You also need to pressure test that carb and make sure it’s holding pressure that way you can test the diaphragm and make sure it bleeds down correctly, that’s a way to know that your metering arm is the correct height, if it’s too high it will hit the top of the plate covering your diaphragm. The pressure test will also tell your the condition of the check valve under the Welch plug. Where you found that piece of “fabric as you called it” seems like it would be the old diaphragm from the check valve but maybe it wasn’t being that your saw is running somewhat. There’s plenty of good videos on these sdc carbs , your almost there but I’m telling you do a pressure test to make sure it’s not leaking and that’s the diaphragm to metering arm relationship is correct otherwise you’ll keep dumping fuel if the needle can not seat correctly , stretching that old spring should help keep that needle down when it’s supposed to be
tobroken1965 oh I thought based on the way you were talking at the end of the video you were still having some issues. You said it was consuming tons of fuel more than before even when it was flooding so I assume you were having a metering issue. Hey if it runs good then it runs good.
@@danielsmith8659 At the time it was, a little adjusting and it was pretty good for the age. The methanol gas is a problem but I started using that premixed fuel with no alcohol. For as much as i use it its a good deal and fewer problems.
tobroken1965 oh yeah no doubt. Ethanol is a killer man. I know many folks who have gone straight to the premix on saws.... The closest station to my house sells non ethanol so I’m good. But I definetly understand
I dont have the package anymore but I am pretty sure it was this one. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Carburetor-Repair-Kit/K10SDC/2444165?modelNumber=SDC-65-1
Thank you thank you very much sir! I've been doing a few things wrong for a while now. I did not know you had to hook the needle lever up to the diaphragm. I also was a little unclear on the welch plug assembly and that there is another screen below the one!!! I see the fuel line has some ribs on it. Is that fuel line special? I made just a regular fuel line work but always wondered exactly what type of line goes on it seeing as the tank nipple is so small compared to carb nipple. Anyways thanks for taking the time to make this video. Helped me a lot. Subscribed.
Thank you, always glad to help! Yes, the fuel line is an exact replacement, the ribs are just a flex point and it has a built in grommet that fits through the body into the fuel tank and creates a seal. If what you used works the saw probably cant tell the difference. Here is a link I used to find some info on my saw. lawn-garden.needmanual.com/mcculloch-promac-10-10s-chainsaw-service-parts-list.html?page_number=3
@@davidschaub271 ether your needle is adjust to high or check valve under Welch plug is not laying flat You have to ask for it or Oder check valve separately.
I have my dads ... from the early 70's. used off n on thru the years. put a longer bar on it some years back. Last year, wouldn't start. After watching this, I'll rebuild the carb, get it going, and sell it. A fine chain saw. I just like the safety aspects of my new one. thanks for making this video.
Thanks for the video and the link on the parts list. Hope to get mine running again; this video and the link to the parts list is a great start.
Your welcome, good luck!
tobroken1965 - The short story on my saw was that the previous owner couldn't get it running. It was given to me with the common statement 'it's yours if you can get it running'. It sat in the corner of my garage for 'forever and a day' but yesterday I decided to give it a go. The carb was gummed up with a white gunk...but some carb cleaner made quick work of it. After all was said and done, she runs like a champ. I need to get a new tank gasket (at some point in a previous life the tank was reassembled with rtv - and that has the consistency of jelly now. But we are 90% there. Thanks again.
@@SoccerPhoto Mine has a similar story.
Yes I found this very useful. Thanks for sharing. I've got a 7-10 which I assume has the same SDC Walbro, and I got it used and probably should clean the carburetor also.
Cool...did the same kinda thing on my channel...had fun.
I never knew they had ones that you connect the diaphragm to the metering lever.
That tiny piece of fabric was the diaphragm for your check valve bud. The brass ring under the Welch plug that you took the screen out of .....
Did you have a way of making check valve?
@@davidschaub271 you can buy them , they just don’t come in the standard walbro rebuild kit, gotta buy it separately . But you can buy it from walbro.
@Daniel Smith I found a kit that hopefully will fit pro mac ,walbro 86-523
Need to check the metering arm and make sure it’s the appropriate height, you can bend the arm or stretch the spring under it. Being you are using the original spring and not a new one I’d highly suggest stretching that spring at least one coil worth with is very little. You also need to pressure test that carb and make sure it’s holding pressure that way you can test the diaphragm and make sure it bleeds down correctly, that’s a way to know that your metering arm is the correct height, if it’s too high it will hit the top of the plate covering your diaphragm. The pressure test will also tell your the condition of the check valve under the Welch plug. Where you found that piece of “fabric as you called it” seems like it would be the old diaphragm from the check valve but maybe it wasn’t being that your saw is running somewhat. There’s plenty of good videos on these sdc carbs , your almost there but I’m telling you do a pressure test to make sure it’s not leaking and that’s the diaphragm to metering arm relationship is correct otherwise you’ll keep dumping fuel if the needle can not seat correctly , stretching that old spring should help keep that needle down when it’s supposed to be
I dunno, I did this 3 years ago and it runs better than it ever did before and doesnt take 20 pulls to start anymore.
tobroken1965 oh I thought based on the way you were talking at the end of the video you were still having some issues. You said it was consuming tons of fuel more than before even when it was flooding so I assume you were having a metering issue. Hey if it runs good then it runs good.
@@danielsmith8659 At the time it was, a little adjusting and it was pretty good for the age. The methanol gas is a problem but I started using that premixed fuel with no alcohol. For as much as i use it its a good deal and fewer problems.
tobroken1965 oh yeah no doubt. Ethanol is a killer man. I know many folks who have gone straight to the premix on saws.... The closest station to my house sells non ethanol so I’m good. But I definetly understand
@@danielsmith8659 they sell it at the pump? Where?
Where did you get the fuel line ?
I dont remember but it was just an online parts supplier like ereplacementparts.com or similar
WHAT CARB KIT NUMBER DID YOU USE , I DON'T SEE IT ANYWHERE!
I dont have the package anymore but I am pretty sure it was this one. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Carburetor-Repair-Kit/K10SDC/2444165?modelNumber=SDC-65-1
Thank you thank you very much sir! I've been doing a few things wrong for a while now. I did not know you had to hook the needle lever up to the diaphragm. I also was a little unclear on the welch plug assembly and that there is another screen below the one!!! I see the fuel line has some ribs on it. Is that fuel line special? I made just a regular fuel line work but always wondered exactly what type of line goes on it seeing as the tank nipple is so small compared to carb nipple. Anyways thanks for taking the time to make this video. Helped me a lot. Subscribed.
Thank you, always glad to help! Yes, the fuel line is an exact replacement, the ribs are just a flex point and it has a built in grommet that fits through the body into the fuel tank and creates a seal. If what you used works the saw probably cant tell the difference. Here is a link I used to find some info on my saw. lawn-garden.needmanual.com/mcculloch-promac-10-10s-chainsaw-service-parts-list.html?page_number=3
That mystery fabric is your check valve needs replacing
Replace your check valve and that will stop the flow of gas out your exhaust. They sell the kits f for that
I have not found check valve ,wasn't in 2 kits I bought
@@davidschaub271 ether your needle is adjust to high or check valve under Welch plug is not laying flat You have to ask for it or Oder check valve separately.
@roy moss I looked up under Mcculloch ordered Mcculloch original kit and a walbro kit , neither kit had check valve