Athearn GP7/9 Rubber Band Drive Chassis Overhaul & Test Run

This video is of an Athearn GP7/9 rubber band drive chassis.
The old rubber bands needed replacing and a thorough cleaning of the chassis, wheels and motor.
Correction: I mention in the video that the RDC (Rail Diesel Car) has an identical drive system but solid rods, which is not accurate. Instead of a rubber or plastic sleeve connecting motor shaft to drive shaft, the RDC has a plastic knuckle. What does make it easier to install drive bands it the drive shaft rests in a fork instead of going through a hole like the eye of a needle. This allows you to just lift up the bands and feed the drive rod through and hook it up on the fork when the bands are in place.
Stay tuned for an upcoming video where I clean up a Santa Fe RDC and notice the difference or similarities in drive shaft connection.

[@Greatdome99]

Those are bladed panhead screws, not flatheads. Hints: To keep electrical tape edges clean, keep them in a plastic bag and don't set them down where they can collect dust and grit. When you're reassembling the trucks, make sure all four wheels touch on a flat surface or you'll have derailments. Your yellow motor couplings are way too loose and visibly wobble, which makes them noisy and unreliable. Use tighter rubber tubing like Athearn did. During reassembly, lubricate the wheel needle bearings, both motor bushings and the rubber band shaft support holes. Be advised that motor magnets lose their strength over time (50+ years!), so they won't run as well as when new. You can get replacement magnets for them from MicroMark. If you've installed Kadee couplers, make sure they're the plastic type, not the metal ones, since the frame is electrically "hot" and could short out on an adjoining loco/car of opposite polarity. Since Athearn's plastic shell has three louvers on the cab battery boxes, the model is actually a GP7, though Athearn marketed it as a GP9 (which has only one louver below the cab). Happy motoring!

[@track1219]

The hair care department of many stores sells packs of black rubber bands that girls use for ponytails, etc. they work great for rubber band drives and tires on steam engines.

[@kentpool7414]

Greetings. I found this video this morning and watched it in order to learn how to repair my Athearn Hi F engines. Good job. Second, I watched a couple of your other videos and discovered your reference to the Athearn Yellow Box Group on FB. I subbed and rang the bell on your channel and joined the Yellow Box Group. Thanks.

[@Tuxedomakdarien]

I completely forgot about the rubber band drives of old Athearn locos. I jusr found some cast zinc cow catchers for a couple of my old Mantua steam locos I have had sitting in parts for years.

[@paulgreenberg6471]

If you use metal KD couplers you can short out 2 rubber band drive locos through the frame. THE INSULATED truck "side"
MUST be on the same rail. I found this out the hard way

[@marcoperez6952]

I cleaned mine recently and now it seems I may have reversed polarity on motor. It runs in opposite direction of my other locomotives. What did I do wrong?

[@tracynation2820]

Flip the bands on the driveshaft. 💙 T.E.N.

[@RandomGamesProductions]

I just got one today at a train show for like 5 bucks it’s pretty nice

[@roystanley7621]

very clear and helpful. Thanks.

[@rrrailservicehoscalemodelr4734]

Glad it was helpful!

[@joeyhammer1998]

Could you use heat shrink for the drive shafts maybe?

[@Greatdome99]

Too brittle. Use rubber tubing like Athearn does.

[@tracynation2820]

Airplane fuel line works. 💙 T.E.N.

[@sierravalleyandharborjunction]

I have 3 old bubber banders........new bands on eBay they work great.....QUIET too!!!!!

[@longviewkelsolines644]

I have an athearn rubberband drive too there not badrunners.