Most of the ones I have run into are the version with multiple rotary knobs. I have never attempted repair because the ground plane/wiremesh film (I'm sure that's not the technical term) delaminates from the face plate. It looks like this one is just starting to delaminate around the volume knob. Common problem when the film is delaminating is intermittent button control sticking on. Most of these are no discontinued from the dealer so used is what I have been using followed by programming if required. I have not attempted to reattach the film back to the faceplate.
It might be the chip, but the failure mode smells more like an input problem to me. From what i can tell, it reacts to a "conductive mass". It makes me wonder if it got a conductive coat (perhaps a cleaning solution) it might cause that problem.
I did check all the traces on the input side, and compared the resistor values from the bad touchpad to a good touchpad and they were equal. There was maybe some slight surface corrosion on some of the traces, but nothing that ate all the way through the traces. The next step would be to just try and replacement chip and see if the problem remains or if it operates correctly.
I’m having this exact issue with the next button over. It happens every time the sun hits that spot so I’m guessing the heat is triggering the touch sensor. Do you think this means the chip is fine and maybe the sensor needs to be cleaned or something?
I apologize I was confusing about that, I noticed when it was too late in editing that I wasn't clear. I got my hands on a defective used unit to scavenge chips from.
I noticed that also. The TTP223 is a similar 6 pin package but 2 of the pins are used for configuration options and an external capacitor is selected to adjust sensitivity. The TS100 does not appear to use a capacitor and instead uses resistors across several pins to balance the sensitivity. They are totally different. Too bad the signals are multiplexed, that adds a whole new level of complexity when trying to use an alternate solution... However, it's definitely a good fix for now. Good job, Jeff!
Did you get those chips from scrap units? Did it solve the issue? I’m also looking to source some. Consider putting them on etsy or ebay or tindie etc?
@@jeffescortlx I have someone asking about fixing these, I think you could make some $, and help people repair these if you sold spares… How did you source broken units? Ebay is really expensive, did you find a junkyard or something?
Yes I have a few faulty ones on the way to scavenge parts from. Although I'd prefer to be able to source new ones, but that might not be an option for this component.
why not swap the chip from another spot? though, this seems like potentially an open circuit. any time something goes good then bad, i don't think chip i think circuit
My plan is to get my hands on some replacement chips. The test points were taken almost directly off the chip. If the incoming power was open, I would just see 0 volts at the output. And also if the output was open, I would just see 0 volts. If the ground was open more than likely I would see it float to 5 volts. But it would stay there, it wouldn't be likely to be intermittent if it was just a bad trace. I did double check all traces both input and output going to that chip.
Jeff, All things considered, I would call that a win. I would be happy with it.
Most of the ones I have run into are the version with multiple rotary knobs. I have never attempted repair because the ground plane/wiremesh film (I'm sure that's not the technical term) delaminates from the face plate. It looks like this one is just starting to delaminate around the volume knob. Common problem when the film is delaminating is intermittent button control sticking on. Most of these are no discontinued from the dealer so used is what I have been using followed by programming if required. I have not attempted to reattach the film back to the faceplate.
Do you know the year range of that climate control you have worked on?
Thanks! Jeff💉
👍👍👍
It might be the chip, but the failure mode smells more like an input problem to me. From what i can tell, it reacts to a "conductive mass". It makes me wonder if it got a conductive coat (perhaps a cleaning solution) it might cause that problem.
I did check all the traces on the input side, and compared the resistor values from the bad touchpad to a good touchpad and they were equal. There was maybe some slight surface corrosion on some of the traces, but nothing that ate all the way through the traces. The next step would be to just try and replacement chip and see if the problem remains or if it operates correctly.
@@jeffescortlx I'll be interested in the results.
I’m having this exact issue with the next button over. It happens every time the sun hits that spot so I’m guessing the heat is triggering the touch sensor. Do you think this means the chip is fine and maybe the sensor needs to be cleaned or something?
You say you have the chips on the way. Can you tell us where and how you got them? Did you find a part number other than the B2PE marking code?
I apologize I was confusing about that, I noticed when it was too late in editing that I wasn't clear. I got my hands on a defective used unit to scavenge chips from.
Hey Jeff. I wonder if this chip isn't a standard TTP223-BA6 ?
If so, Aliexpress has 50pc for $1.31.
Let us know, thanks.
Unfortunately the pinout isn't a match. It looks like the TS100 B2PE has a unique input configuration.
I noticed that also. The TTP223 is a similar 6 pin package but 2 of the pins are used for configuration options and an external capacitor is selected to adjust sensitivity. The TS100 does not appear to use a capacitor and instead uses resistors across several pins to balance the sensitivity. They are totally different. Too bad the signals are multiplexed, that adds a whole new level of complexity when trying to use an alternate solution... However, it's definitely a good fix for now. Good job, Jeff!
Did you get those chips from scrap units? Did it solve the issue? I’m also looking to source some. Consider putting them on etsy or ebay or tindie etc?
I wasn't able to source any new chips. But I did buy a used unit that I'll be able to scavenge quite a few from.
@@jeffescortlx I have someone asking about fixing these, I think you could make some $, and help people repair these if you sold spares… How did you source broken units? Ebay is really expensive, did you find a junkyard or something?
@@TheMadHatter1337 I found one on eBay for a reasonable price. Sometimes you can find defective ones for cheap.
Chip made of one hundred percent unobtainium.
Nah it should be possible to source them. They are pretty generic.
cool tks
Maybe buy spare panel from scrap, for parts if every button is one chip you can fix n.buttons panels with it
Yes I have a few faulty ones on the way to scavenge parts from. Although I'd prefer to be able to source new ones, but that might not be an option for this component.
why not swap the chip from another spot? though, this seems like potentially an open circuit. any time something goes good then bad, i don't think chip i think circuit
My plan is to get my hands on some replacement chips. The test points were taken almost directly off the chip. If the incoming power was open, I would just see 0 volts at the output. And also if the output was open, I would just see 0 volts. If the ground was open more than likely I would see it float to 5 volts. But it would stay there, it wouldn't be likely to be intermittent if it was just a bad trace. I did double check all traces both input and output going to that chip.
What a crap design