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Rj45 installation tip for quicker cleanup especially if you're doing multiple ends, leave the strands slightly longer and retwist all of the colours together again once they've been passed through the plug. When you crimp you're left with just one bundle of 8 wires to pick up instead of having to pickup/sweep 8 individual wire ends for each plug that will of course be spread all around the floor
Please review your understanding of EIA/TIA 568 A or B, nothing to do with straight or crossover cabling. It is to do with pins 1&2 being green or orange. Cross over is to do with pins 1,2 &3,6
In north america they make adapter lugs that will fit across two bus bar terminals and go to one big terminal. You should see if fusebox makes them and if so, it would really help with that supply earth
Wifi is wireless, you mean Ethernet cable! Too many people refer to Wifi as the internet which plain wrong! It is quite possible to have Wifi with absolutely no connection to the internet.
With you on that, the mainstream internet adverts do it. “Unbreakable WiFi” except what they are talking about Unbreakable internet except it says it can take 4 minutes to connects. Last time I checked that breaks connections 😂
Hmmm ... do you mean the right but ... The term "WiFi" refers in the English-speaking world to a signal from sender to destination - equal local or world-wide e.g. satellite. In German-speaking places they use "WLAN" as Wireless Local Area Network for local installations and "WIFI" (see the different writing!) for signals from mobile phone stations to local smartphones or local router (2G/3G/4G/5G/6G). This makes it more clear I think. It looks as they use different abbreviations for wireless local area networks inside houses. Around the 70's to 80's we learn: - LAN => local area network (inside house/apartment) - BAN => building area network or AN => area network - WAN => wide area network (bigger area) - CAN => city area network - FAN => far away area network It can be ordered as TIER I till VI too where be TIER I player worked world-wide. With a "wireless" in front it is means all without cables. I hear RLAN for "radio local area network" as abbreviation before too. It is more easy to understand if somebody talked for wireless inside house with connection from router to device over 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz (till now the once world-wide allowed frequencies) or that the router use wireless outside house with 4G for connection to outside data network. But - if a typical electrician talk about "WiFi" and "Zappi" should it be clear that he mean the connection between router (or access point) to the device over a local connection without cables. Yeah, the *WiFi cable* is fake! Then no car changer have build-in xG device to connect direct to mobile sender till yet. Per definition they are smart home products and use the local network. It works off-grid (aka internet) perfectly. What mean Mr. Artisan Electrics to this all? 🤔
@@OldLordSpeedy What a load of garbage. No one uses 'WIFI' (correctly 'Wi-Fi' if we're being pedantic) to refer to broadband cellular networks such as 4G/5G. No one uses Wi-Fi to refer to 'a signal from sender to destination'. Wi-Fi is exclusively a short-range wireless network protocol, and since it's how most people access their internet connection it's become interchangeable for them. I think you'll also find that CAN is typically used to refer to a 'Campus Area Network'. Most city-wide networks are called MANs or 'Metropolitan Area Network'. 'Far Away Area Network' is just something you've come up with in your head, isn't it? 'Field Area Network' is the correct term. There are plenty of car chargers that have 4G and 5G connectivity. BG Sync EV, Project EV Pro, Indra Smart Pro EV, etc.
@@OldLordSpeedy WiFi refers to Wireless Fidelity, the 802.11 family of standards. Certainly, I've done metropolitan range with this technology, but it has nothing to do with GSM, EDGE, HSPA, LTE... completely different protocols. And while usually 'WiFi cable' is an incorrect term, that's what I tag the cable from the router to an access point as. And of course a lot of people get this mixed up, what bothers me is that Artisan Electric doesn't employ IT techs for many of their jobs. Would save headaches and probably help on camera with certain concepts.
I discovered your channel today. Thank you very much for sharing your professional experience. I see that you are doing advanced project such as mixing old PV system and new ones. Not everybody can do these or is bothered to think about how to make it work. Well done
Yup, worst plasterboard fixing for that application, varying physical load on that charger will soon have them coming loose, creating a revisit.. common sense says.. stay well clear of those fixing for that application, certainly not an Artisan solution. If that was a studded wall you should have a backboard fixed to the studding and fix to the backboard.
In Australia, earlier Solar installs for domestic housing with 3ph supply had a metering financial bug. The single phase solar was metered individually, so you would be getting feedback tariff dollars on one phase when exporting. While at the same time getting billed on the other 2 phases at market rates.
11:20 I can say with confidence that going from TIA568A to TIA568B is NOT a cross over cable, its only a half of a cross over cable. You are only swapping the green and orange pairs, the blue and brown are the same for both and therefore not crossed over. Most all 1Gbps network adapters support automatic MDI/MDI-X configuration, which means they will do auto crossover cabling internally on the card. No need for crossover cables. Most all 1Gbps network switches support this too, even though its optional part of the standard, most manufactures implemented / support it by default. That way you can take a regular cable and attach two switches together for example or two computers together without a switch between them. Here in the US, many use 568B by default for the wiring, although it really doesn't matter as long as you wire both ends the same, either all 568A or all 568B the cable will work, again you are just swapping the orange and green pairs positions within the connector. One thing with the cables make sure you keep the twists as close as possible to any device before straightening them to go into the RJ45 connector or 110 punch down block. Cross-talk is the enemy of the connection and by keeping the tight twists as long as possible the better chance to keep the link error free. I am surprised that your allowed to run the CAT6 cable into the CU directly by regulations. You want to make sure you don't have parallel paths of power and network cable. Granted this link is only a few feet (less than a meter) so its not a big deal, but if your running underground for example you wouldn't want the network connection in the same conduit as the power cable, ideally you want them at least 12 inches apart, if not farther. If you need to cross power cables with the network cables keep them crossing perpendicular to each other. This will minimize the amount of inductance onto the network cable from the power cable. Just some useful tips. Keep up the good work sir! 👍🤠
In My 37 years in the Business the only time I was required to use the 568A Scheme was for anything Government related. at least here in Central Wis. I ran into shorting issues trying to keep the twists tight, They would short right where the Connector body crimped on the Conductors, I would pull back the Jacket, Fan out My pairs so they'd lay nice & flat, let the jacket relax while fitting the Connector on. The conductors are nice & flat inside the jacket under the Crimp. Whala no more shorts.. the Twists are just outside the body. After doing what seamed like a Million Connections, If I could feel the Colors I could do them Blindfolded. LOL Now retired so I do not have to do them anymore..
Um, with 1Gbps there are no crossover cables anymore. With that standard, the two ports are negotiating which pairs to use for what anyway. And for 100 Mbps and lower, swapping 2 pairs is enough because the connection only uses 2 pairs.
Watching this channel some of the Zappi’s seem to have had reliability issues. I get the impression is the Hypervolt might be more reliable? However the hypervolt appears to allow for only one bidirectional CT transformer. This means that if you have solar you can balance your charging to minimise grid input but you can’t actually measure the actual solar input. Hypervolt use a raspberry Pi to provide control and services to their app. This is a really good idea because you are leveraging an existing technology simplifying your control systems and allowing future software upgrades. I prefer the clean look of the Hypervolt unit, but unlike the Zappi, it limits itself by only allowing one CT input. Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the Zappi requires a Hub to support their app and provide an internet connection? I don’t know if the Zappi Harvi and Eddi still operate their radio connections using the 868 MHz still. I am inclined to think MyEnergy might do better using IP WiFi or wired Ethernet to connect their devices. The problem I see is that using a jumble of technologies can create a bad user experience both in terms of setting up and operation. What should Hypervolt do? I think it’s a good thing to minimise the cabling running to the charger unit. There should be only one Cat 5e/6 going into the unit. I don’t like their present system where the CT input can run with an Ethernet connection in the same cable. I would prefer they ran two separate cables (despite comment above). I suggest, however, even better, Hypervolt should design a separate CT integration unit (similar to MyEnergy Harvi) to connect multiple CT units and feed the CT information via an IP data stream into the charger either by WiFi or by an Ethernet Cat 5e/6 cable either through a direct cable or indirect cable through a local router. That way Hypervolt would not need to change their existing hardware, and they could then issue a firmware upgrade to support a 😊new separate CT unit which would be compatible with all existing Hypervolt units. The new CT unit might be able to run off power from the CT clamps or if not PoE or a small power pack.
@@fredturk6447 The Eddie in perticular, and no we installed around 20 hypervolts and had issues with every signle one, mainly down to comms boards and smart app control, and not even being able to connect them via wifi
I installed an Eddy solar diverted into the hot water cylinder with an integrated hub, so when I get an EV, opting for a Zappi will be a no brainer because the 2 devices are well integrated in terms of setting precedence (I hope).
Interesting how everything is done in plastic. It is still mainly metal here in the USA. Take a look at Gain Solar and Engineer 755 videos. I think you will find them interesting.
Really useful as had a Zappi installed at the start of the month - it's the first time we have been able to see in real time what we are generating and using (though it looks like when we have sun 90% of it is going to the grid!) the car to use it will arrive some time in January we hope! I have not worked out yet how to control prioritisation etc ... assume that comes once the car is plugged in....
For non myenergy batteries there are some handy settings in the Zappi that you can use to set the system up. You can specify separately if you want myenergy devices to not pull power from the battery and also if you want myenergy devices to prevent the battery from charging (by putting it in eddi or zappi instead) unfortunately these setting are not in the app, it would be nice to alter this seasonally as my preferences differ between summer and winter. This requires another ct on the battery circuit. Great content as always guys!
He’s not explaining HOW to use it, he’s explaining what it does. He’s also not explained every other safety precaution that should be taken when performing an electrical installation.
@@Pugjamin I take your point but in stating that the output is only millivolts this could have some DIYer attempting their own install and getting a surprise I have seen electricians who thought that if they disconnected the leads then they must be dead !
Very true - an unburdened CT on-load is extremely dangerous but I don't think that the Zappi CTs are just CTs - they are current transducers with a CT front-end but (as Jordan mentioned in the vid) the system uses a voltage proportional to the line current for actual measurement. I had a quick dig around on the myenergi website but there is no technical spec' on these devices. It does say they come with a 5m tail that may be extended up to 100m (!) using ethernet cable. Given that the loop resistance of that type of cable is around 7 ohms per 100m, you would need a fairly chunky CT (a real one that is) to drive rated current through such a high burden (and that's ignoring the effects of capacitance). Just looking at physical size of the "CT" in the video, I'm pretty sure there's a bit more to it. Anybody got the technical spec for the transducers? Are they perhaps 4-20mA devices?
Great vid again. If it was me, I would have ran the power cable for the switch down, right angle right into trunking then up and out. Could loose the excess cable inside the trunking and neaten the install.
Great vid as always but can I add that it’s not a ‘chamfered edge’ that you did it was a ‘mitred edge’. Also vertical lines are checked for ‘plumb’ whereas horizontal lines are checked for ‘level’. Everyday is a school day Jordan, otherwise top marks 👍
One thing I'd like to know with the Libi, is it capable of properly avoiding battery drain when the EV is charging and still allow the EV charger to charge at full power (from the grid)? What i mean by that is not to just have the Zappi turn off/down it's charging rate to avoid battery drain, but for the Libi to actually not include the EV charger (in this case Zappi) in it's grid tie power output calculation - so that it can always provide the maximum battery output to the home, but not also provide power to the EV charger if it is charging. This allows the EV charger to always charge at full power - using grid power when there isn't excess solar and to never drain down the battery which you want to preserve for home use only. The only way i can see it can do this is if the LIbi has the provision to exclude devices from the grid tie power calculation - either via a CT clamp from the Libi on that circuit or from smart communication between compatible devices (i.e. Zappi & Libi) This is a sought after feature that other AC coupled battery systems like the Tesla Powerwall can't do - with such systems relying on the Zappi to sense output from the AC coupled battery and just turn down/off it's charging rate to avoid battery drain. The current solution to this with systems like the Tesla Powerwall, is to have the EV charger run off a separate small CU, directly from the meter cabinet by another set of tails - so that the Grid CT from the battery is not on the same tails as the EV charger...effectively excluding the charger from the battery's Grid Tie calculation. This still allows chargers like the Zappi to charge off solar as they will still sense the export if you put their Grid CT ahead of the henley block for the extra set of tails. Only problem with this setup (aside from extra cost for a separate CU) is that the battery's smart features for data logging are then not showing the consumption of your EV charger at all - not really a problem in operation but can annoy the customer.
If you terminate your cable with A on one side and B on the other side you get a crossover cable that ONLY works for 10/100 base ethernet!!! To make a CORRECT crossover cable you need to also swap blue and brown pairs!!! (this will work for 10/100/1000 base ethernet) Then again if any of the devices you are connecting has "Auto MDI-X" you can use a simple straight cable. One thing I was taught during CCNA training (Cisco Certified Network Associate) is to avoid crossover cables (it is regarded as a non-standard cable). PS : In Europe we typically use the B standard
Gigabit negotiates channels (i.e. there are no up-/downstream ports to cross between anymore), so if both network adapters implement the standard fully and correctly (that's the caveat...), you could swap the pairs in any configuration and it would still work.
@@HenryLoenwind Auto MDI/MDI-X is an optional feature of gigabit ethernet and not a requirement! So if Auto MDI/MDI-X feature is not implemented it still complies to the standard. If none of the devices has Auto MDI/MDI-X and you are trying to directly connect a MDI with MDI, or MDI-X with MDI-X, you will need a gigabit crossover cable (all pairs are bi-directional but you will still need to cross data lines A-B and C-D).
CT are always messy in these units. I don't know how you can sleep at night with the CT just hanging there. These panels need support for CT's built in - a place to run the line through for easy, neat CT connect (be nice if the CT's clipped into the panel or where on DIN rail) Or, be even better if they were included in the breaker itself.
Sorry to be pedantic, but the current transformer 'steps down' the current in the main cable. So if the primary feed has 10A running through it, and the transformer has 1000 turns, the secondary current will be 10mA. This secondary current will pass through a resistor in the EVSE and generates a voltage (V=IR), which is proportional to the primary current. Yup, I'm a nerd 🤓
I bumped into one of your very nice electricians today in Saffron Waldon Tescos, had a nice chat, Mind he did seem to be a bit befuddled with the charger!🤣
In Aus the weather is the currently the complete opposite on the Gold Coast hitting up 35 degrees on the roof then add 10-15 + degrees inside... Reason we call it Soul destroying Solar in Summer hahah
Dear oh dear - lost my appetite It was up the creek by planning it to the mm imho - nice to have a go at the suppliers - how dare they change anything Using all that wall space to put up some electrical odds n sods in a nice clean well designed garage /workshop too - did you not notice those nice cabinets 🤔 Should’ve put all the gubbins in a in server cabinet/s - wired / tested off site to the “mm” - & rolled em in for hook up. Get the doors to match the others cabinets - jobs a good un. In & out in a day Love your work though 👍 I’m here all day
I think untetheted charging stations are generally a better option. The consumer can easily swap the cable at will: - switch between tyoe1, type2 or domestic socket adaper depending on the vehicle. - switch length depending on where they park. - replace with new if old cable is broken.
If the charger can lock the cable even if it's not in use and if there's no space constraint with the plug sticking out, yes. For our driveway, the plug sticking out would be an issue. It's narrow enough that (modern) cars can only open doors on one side already. And while we do have a gate, it cannot be locked as the house entrance is halfway up the driveway, so cable theft is an issue to consider.
@@HenryLoenwind fair points. I have an Easee wallbox. The type2 socket can be permanently locked through the app. The socket is tilted down, making the cable from the plug go straight down. I guess mine is pointing out about 25 cm from the wall, maximum 30 cm (I'm not at home, can't verify). I got a design idea from your comment. I think some installations could be better if the wallbox had the type2-socket on the side; kind of like the dummy socket for the Tesla Wall connector, but withe the powered socket on one side, and the dummy socket on the other side.
Hello, with regards to battery storage and car chargers for me there is little point of emptying your storage battery into the car battery so i have one db for zappi & eddi 2nd db for house , solar and battery via henley blocks, with the ct clamps in the right place the excess solar pv diverts into my battery then eddi and finally the car if plugged in, the battery storage then only supplies my home . car and battery storage charged from off peak rate 12.30 - 4.30 simon (Brunswick Electrical Services ltd)
Might be a good idea to outline how much PV power the site will actually make, given the limitations of roof direction,angle,etc,location,system size etc. People have delusions that an install can produce all their power.........so how much percentage of expected yearly demand can it provide????
The only issue I have with Libbi is the price. It is £2k more expensive than similar systems. Libbi will never pay for itself... And software integration is not worth the extra...
Brass nut and bolt with a spring washers or serrated washer lugged to the DB chassis then a 16mm fly lead if your really keen. Personally I’d have done the trunking in steel and metal clad accessories looks better and I bit more commercial customer probs looks at it and thinks they’ve got a commercial level install considering the money this probably cost 🤪 also why cut in a single flush socket for the switch and not the double sockets 😂
data cables should not be in the same trunking with electric cables, really, correct me if im wrong. good idea for screw holes marking with electric tape
Jordan: I have measured everything up to the mm Also Jordan: I'm going to run the trunking to the end because I'm not 100% sure on where the battery is going to go X-D Don't question yourself Jordan!
True! But considering the battery box might have arrived different to what was specified (as the other things did), probably best to be on the safe side! I can imagine this customer is quite particular about neatness if you look at the tools on the back wall!
Keep an eye out on eBay - even for offices cabinets - I’ve had units worth £2k for not a lot - shame Artisan/Jordan decided to take up loads of wall space - If I was Client I’d ask about considering units in server units - & I could put some matching doors on!
Great content really enjoy watching & Learning guys , l,m Got taken on now full time sparky apprenticeship really enjoying it learning tons more with Tommy, a great boss , Have a great Christmas to you all 🎄 ⚡️👊
Great vid Jordan..... Am I reading it right? You showed 2 inverters in the system on your laptop? One Solar Edge and the integrated Libbi inverter on top of the two batteries. Or was that just a generic graphic? If it is right, interested to see how they interact with each other. Can't wait for the next one
11:30 you're splitting the green and blue pairs. This is where one data bundle is split across one wire that's interleaved with the other data pair and this causes cross talk issues. And unfortunately it will work in low speed and short run data applications even though it is not proper and can cause issues. This is how you tell the difference between somebody who does data and somebody who doesn't. And also why a data person comes in and ends up cutting off all the ends and starting over, or requiring that they do the ends themselves. I'm glad that you're thinking about hardlined networking it solves so many issues with Wireless and for fixed objects it doesn't make sense to do Wi-Fi. It's not like that Zappy needs to be movable and Mobile.
@@Etacovda63 pass-through connectors are awesome. Just treated myself to a crimper that does that and haven't gotten to use it yet, found out it won't do regular crimps. This is like the third video that I've noticed it in. At least he's consistently doing it wrong!
You're wrong, he's wiring it completely correctly. In T568B pins 3 and 6 are either orange pair split, or green pair split. Are you the clown who puts the pairs in next to eachother, not realising what the standard is? I'd be chopping your terminations off!
thoughts on running the data cable through the CU ? / and also segregation of power / data ? .. call me old school if you will but would love to see metal containment and accessories , just seems more robust some how
I can’t speak for the UK but in Canada Data and Power have to be separated by 6 inches or they can be ran alongside each other if protected via like a tech cable or conduit
Solar is great when the sun shines but useless if the panels are covered with snow or the sun is blanked by mist or fog. My nominal 4KW array managed only 10KWh over the last 10 days Dece ber 2022
Continued from above: that is: only one unit of electricity per day, not even enough to heat domestic water, or charge a battery or car. Solar has its uses but cannot be relied upon.
Crude, but works i suppose....to make it neater I'd strip a good section off, use earth sleeving on the 2 'divides', maybe even a bit of heat-shrink on the Y joint for super neatness.
Oh, there's actually people responding to that question. I'd put up a PE bar and ran a properly sized cable into the CU. They only cost about 6 bucks...
CT clamps are dirty hacks when you don't have intelligent enough components in your system - if you look at a decent inverter-solar-charger (like something from Victron) it will handle diverting excess PV to charge batteries, or a vehicle, or feed back into the grid if both of those are full. It also has bluetooth/wifi and remote monitoring features (cloud) to tell you exactly how much is going in and out.
Sounds intriguing. As a retired power system engineer who commissioned literally 1000s of these so-called 'dirty-hacks' in electricity substations, I'm very interested to learn more of the intelligent components of which you speak. How does this work exactly?
Maybe there are some poor implementations out there but CTs can be extremely accurate and fast responding. My inverters is 5kW, my supply is capable of 100A or 24kW. CT makes perfect sense as I don’t need to disturb any of the existing supply or deal with circuits passing 100A
@@edc1569 these don’t appear CTs in the truest sense. Based on their physical dimensions, I seriously doubt they can cope with the burden of 100m of CAT6 twisted pair at rated current. They appear to be current _transducers_ but the manufacturer’s website doesn’t give sufficient detail. Besides, my original query of @ashort01 was what “intelligent” systems comprise to eliminate the use of CTs or transducers.
@@protectiongeek I have a grid ie inverter, and it does pretty well matching discharge of the batteries with the load, my half hourly meeter readings come in as low single watts of import under most loads
As a consumer, I’m looking to be able to store solar energy made during the day for use at night. Not having a battery system would mean I could only run my appliances and charge my electric car during the day. But I work during the day, so having the battery storage system makes more sense to me. The initial investment is high and it’s a shame modern houses don’t come prebuilt with such solar/battery systems.
Are you sure the CTs that you ran to the house are reading correctly with all of that cable? I would think voltage drop would cause an issue with such a low voltage signal.
Loved the video, from a network engineer POV, I only hated two things about that install. 1st (minor): the dumb network switch. Those things are at most layer two switches and so when placed in places that can be accessed, are a pita. Also, I would guess the tenants of the property aren't doing anything like MAC address whitelisting or having separate VLANS (security, iot, general and guest are the basic ones in my book). The other thing is I just hope you didn't bury cat 6 even in conduit. Anything that goes outside data wise should be fiber or a P2P bridge.
Fiber has more to do with ground isolation between buildings. There are inexpensive fiber to copper converters and 4 fiber cable with gel is pretty cheap.
@@marossgnv Regardless, completely unnecessary expense on residential properties such as this....and your idea of inexpensive is all relative, compared to cat 6 in conduit or even armoured cat 6 - that lot is a ridiculous unnecessary expense just to run a network link to an EV charger and battery storage. Also no point worrying about electrically isolating your network connection between buildings when it's all running off the same, non-isolated, power connection (including an exported ground)
Good idea! Even if the grid was down, you could use energy from the battery to melt the snow/ice sheet. This energy would be quickly replenished, and the installation could continue to generate.💚
I wondered if anyone in the comments section had any advice. I was lucky enough to get a Green Homes grant to cover the full cost of install for a 3.3kw array into a 3.6kw Solis inverter. Because it was a grant I had no control over the number of panels, I could get 14 on my South facing roof(I tried to find out pre install but to no avail). I want to oversize the inverter (it will take over 5kw and will accept a second string) so got a quote from the original installer - £3500 for 3 more panels! Obviously there are the fixed costs of a scaffold, but! Am I stuck with that type of pricing?
For the 25mm earth. Just do what some plank did that I found recently. Cut some strands of the conductor off until it fits. 🙄 Or do what I do and use a 25mm - 16mm reducing pin crimp. Fusebox will accept up to 16mm in the earth terminal bar.
What? Have you seen how shielded and over the top Cat8 is? Cat6 will do 10gig at 55meters. There is no chance this EV equipment will ever need a gigabits worth of bandwidth. Also, look up how annoyingly complicated it is to terminate a Cat8 keystone.
8kW is *not* that much... Talk about the loads from, say, an induction cooker, microwave and heat pump; oh, and the electric dryer... It adds up pretty quickly... What're you doing out on the Worksite anyhow? You're supposed to be back at the office with your feet up smoking a big fat cigar! ;-)
The grid picks that up, no point spending money trying to accomodate the 0.01% of time load when you have the grid. Also there’s no point in meeting a demand if you just run out of energy storage anyway, might as well just provide a lower contribution for longer.
With the CTs do they need to be calibrated to compensate for the resistance of a long run (like here from house to garage) of several tens of metres of twisted pair cable, as the output is in millivolts?
@@edc1569 Ah - that makes sense. So if it’s a 100:1 transformer it just sets the compliance voltage to whatever is needed to drive 1/100th of whatever was measured.
Oh my god please dont just push the wires in if they are stranded you can do that with solids but with strandeds you gotta unlock the connector first with a screwdriver
I called that hole marking trick the dirty finger trick LOL I take a piece of paper, Place it on the back of the device and rub a finger over it. if there is the slightest dirt on You finger it will leave a nice impression. Or in an office environment I'd scan the Device on a Copier. .. 568A to 568B is not a crossover Cable.. You are swapping the wrong pairs..
I love fitting the myenergi kit & can’t wait to be let loose with a Libbi. Is there any reason you’re hardwiring the CT’s back to the zappi instead of using a Harvi?
Is it OK to connect a CT clamp to the other end of tens of metres of cat 6 twisted pair? Given it’s a weak analog voltage that’s being measured, I’d expect cable losses to cause the Zappi to under-read the current passing through the clamp
A current transformer will transform current into current which theoretically has no influence on cable length. So if you use a longer cable there will be a bigger voltage drop on the cable but the current is the same no matter how long the cable is.
@@ppdan unfortunately, it won't be the same. Cable length, or burden to be more precise, is one of the most important parameters to consider when specifying a current transformer. Over-burdening a CT will have an effect on the output of the CT, affecting its accuracy.
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Rj45 installation tip for quicker cleanup especially if you're doing multiple ends, leave the strands slightly longer and retwist all of the colours together again once they've been passed through the plug. When you crimp you're left with just one bundle of 8 wires to pick up instead of having to pickup/sweep 8 individual wire ends for each plug that will of course be spread all around the floor
Please review your understanding of EIA/TIA 568 A or B, nothing to do with straight or crossover cabling. It is to do with pins 1&2 being green or orange. Cross over is to do with pins 1,2 &3,6
A correct crossover also swaps 4-5 and 7-8!
In north america they make adapter lugs that will fit across two bus bar terminals and go to one big terminal. You should see if fusebox makes them and if so, it would really help with that supply earth
Wifi is wireless, you mean Ethernet cable! Too many people refer to Wifi as the internet which plain wrong! It is quite possible to have Wifi with absolutely no connection to the internet.
With you on that, the mainstream internet adverts do it. “Unbreakable WiFi” except what they are talking about Unbreakable internet except it says it can take 4 minutes to connects. Last time I checked that breaks connections 😂
That and you can break WiFi , turn on a microwave
Hmmm ... do you mean the right but ...
The term "WiFi" refers in the English-speaking world to a signal from sender to destination - equal local or world-wide e.g. satellite. In German-speaking places they use "WLAN" as Wireless Local Area Network for local installations and "WIFI" (see the different writing!) for signals from mobile phone stations to local smartphones or local router (2G/3G/4G/5G/6G). This makes it more clear I think.
It looks as they use different abbreviations for wireless local area networks inside houses. Around the 70's to 80's we learn:
- LAN => local area network (inside house/apartment)
- BAN => building area network or AN => area network
- WAN => wide area network (bigger area)
- CAN => city area network
- FAN => far away area network
It can be ordered as TIER I till VI too where be TIER I player worked world-wide. With a "wireless" in front it is means all without cables. I hear RLAN for "radio local area network" as abbreviation before too.
It is more easy to understand if somebody talked for wireless inside house with connection from router to device over 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz (till now the once world-wide allowed frequencies) or that the router use wireless outside house with 4G for connection to outside data network.
But - if a typical electrician talk about "WiFi" and "Zappi" should it be clear that he mean the connection between router (or access point) to the device over a local connection without cables. Yeah, the *WiFi cable* is fake! Then no car changer have build-in xG device to connect direct to mobile sender till yet. Per definition they are smart home products and use the local network. It works off-grid (aka internet) perfectly.
What mean Mr. Artisan Electrics to this all? 🤔
@@OldLordSpeedy What a load of garbage. No one uses 'WIFI' (correctly 'Wi-Fi' if we're being pedantic) to refer to broadband cellular networks such as 4G/5G. No one uses Wi-Fi to refer to 'a signal from sender to destination'. Wi-Fi is exclusively a short-range wireless network protocol, and since it's how most people access their internet connection it's become interchangeable for them.
I think you'll also find that CAN is typically used to refer to a 'Campus Area Network'. Most city-wide networks are called MANs or 'Metropolitan Area Network'. 'Far Away Area Network' is just something you've come up with in your head, isn't it? 'Field Area Network' is the correct term.
There are plenty of car chargers that have 4G and 5G connectivity. BG Sync EV, Project EV Pro, Indra Smart Pro EV, etc.
@@OldLordSpeedy WiFi refers to Wireless Fidelity, the 802.11 family of standards. Certainly, I've done metropolitan range with this technology, but it has nothing to do with GSM, EDGE, HSPA, LTE... completely different protocols. And while usually 'WiFi cable' is an incorrect term, that's what I tag the cable from the router to an access point as. And of course a lot of people get this mixed up, what bothers me is that Artisan Electric doesn't employ IT techs for many of their jobs. Would save headaches and probably help on camera with certain concepts.
Our first installed Zappi cable run is 1.2m and 2.5m for our second Zappi. Great job guys. Our upcoming solar and battery install will be as simple!
Really enjoyed you going into detail with the individual parts of the system.
If you need to remove snow or dry a large area such as solar panels, consider a leaf blower. Not for garden only 🙂
I discovered your channel today. Thank you very much for sharing your professional experience. I see that you are doing advanced project such as mixing old PV system and new ones. Not everybody can do these or is bothered to think about how to make it work. Well done
Welcome to the channel.
The plasterboard fixings you used will not stand constant pulling of the charging cable from the Zappi wall unit
Yup, worst plasterboard fixing for that application, varying physical load on that charger will soon have them coming loose, creating a revisit.. common sense says.. stay well clear of those fixing for that application, certainly not an Artisan solution. If that was a studded wall you should have a backboard fixed to the studding and fix to the backboard.
In Australia, earlier Solar installs for domestic housing with 3ph supply had a metering financial bug. The single phase solar was metered individually, so you would be getting feedback tariff dollars on one phase when exporting. While at the same time getting billed on the other 2 phases at market rates.
As much as I liked Corey on the channel I subscribed for Jordan originally and it’s nice to see him on the Chanel again, top bloke 💪🏻
11:20 I can say with confidence that going from TIA568A to TIA568B is NOT a cross over cable, its only a half of a cross over cable. You are only swapping the green and orange pairs, the blue and brown are the same for both and therefore not crossed over. Most all 1Gbps network adapters support automatic MDI/MDI-X configuration, which means they will do auto crossover cabling internally on the card. No need for crossover cables. Most all 1Gbps network switches support this too, even though its optional part of the standard, most manufactures implemented / support it by default. That way you can take a regular cable and attach two switches together for example or two computers together without a switch between them.
Here in the US, many use 568B by default for the wiring, although it really doesn't matter as long as you wire both ends the same, either all 568A or all 568B the cable will work, again you are just swapping the orange and green pairs positions within the connector. One thing with the cables make sure you keep the twists as close as possible to any device before straightening them to go into the RJ45 connector or 110 punch down block. Cross-talk is the enemy of the connection and by keeping the tight twists as long as possible the better chance to keep the link error free.
I am surprised that your allowed to run the CAT6 cable into the CU directly by regulations. You want to make sure you don't have parallel paths of power and network cable. Granted this link is only a few feet (less than a meter) so its not a big deal, but if your running underground for example you wouldn't want the network connection in the same conduit as the power cable, ideally you want them at least 12 inches apart, if not farther. If you need to cross power cables with the network cables keep them crossing perpendicular to each other. This will minimize the amount of inductance onto the network cable from the power cable.
Just some useful tips. Keep up the good work sir! 👍🤠
In My 37 years in the Business the only time I was required to use the 568A Scheme was for anything Government related. at least here in Central Wis.
I ran into shorting issues trying to keep the twists tight, They would short right where the Connector body crimped on the Conductors, I would pull back the Jacket, Fan out My pairs so they'd lay nice & flat, let the jacket relax while fitting the Connector on. The conductors are nice & flat inside the jacket under the Crimp. Whala no more shorts.. the Twists are just outside the body. After doing what seamed like a Million Connections, If I could feel the Colors I could do them Blindfolded. LOL Now retired so I do not have to do them anymore..
Um, with 1Gbps there are no crossover cables anymore. With that standard, the two ports are negotiating which pairs to use for what anyway. And for 100 Mbps and lower, swapping 2 pairs is enough because the connection only uses 2 pairs.
The Hypervolt EV charger does exactly the same as the Zappi re solar integration and looks a darn sight nicer in my view!
not when it comes do DC coupled batterys & heating contoller intergration..
Watching this channel some of the Zappi’s seem to have had reliability issues. I get the impression is the Hypervolt might be more reliable?
However the hypervolt appears to allow for only one bidirectional CT transformer. This means that if you have solar you can balance your charging to minimise grid input but you can’t actually measure the actual solar input. Hypervolt use a raspberry Pi to provide control and services to their app. This is a really good idea because you are leveraging an existing technology simplifying your control systems and allowing future software upgrades.
I prefer the clean look of the Hypervolt unit, but unlike the Zappi, it limits itself by only allowing one CT input.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the Zappi requires a Hub to support their app and provide an internet connection? I don’t know if the Zappi Harvi and Eddi still operate their radio connections using the 868 MHz still. I am inclined to think MyEnergy might do better using IP WiFi or wired Ethernet to connect their devices.
The problem I see is that using a jumble of technologies can create a bad user experience both in terms of setting up and operation.
What should Hypervolt do? I think it’s a good thing to minimise the cabling running to the charger unit. There should be only one Cat 5e/6 going into the unit. I don’t like their present system where the CT input can run with an Ethernet connection in the same cable. I would prefer they ran two separate cables (despite comment above). I suggest, however, even better, Hypervolt should design a separate CT integration unit (similar to MyEnergy Harvi) to connect multiple CT units and feed the CT information via an IP data stream into the charger either by WiFi or by an Ethernet Cat 5e/6 cable either through a direct cable or indirect cable through a local router. That way Hypervolt would not need to change their existing hardware, and they could then issue a firmware upgrade to support a 😊new separate CT unit which would be compatible with all existing Hypervolt units. The new CT unit might be able to run off power from the CT clamps or if not PoE or a small power pack.
@@fredturk6447 The Eddie in perticular, and no we installed around 20 hypervolts and had issues with every signle one, mainly down to comms boards and smart app control, and not even being able to connect them via wifi
@@donzotv1667 Thank you, very helpful.
I installed an Eddy solar diverted into the hot water cylinder with an integrated hub, so when I get an EV, opting for a Zappi will be a no brainer because the 2 devices are well integrated in terms of setting precedence (I hope).
Solar in the snow can be really challenging. Have done it in many Canadian winters.
Thanks Jordan. Appreciate the shout out!
Interesting how everything is done in plastic. It is still mainly metal here in the USA. Take a look at Gain Solar and Engineer 755 videos. I think you will find them interesting.
Really useful as had a Zappi installed at the start of the month - it's the first time we have been able to see in real time what we are generating and using (though it looks like when we have sun 90% of it is going to the grid!) the car to use it will arrive some time in January we hope! I have not worked out yet how to control prioritisation etc ... assume that comes once the car is plugged in....
For non myenergy batteries there are some handy settings in the Zappi that you can use to set the system up. You can specify separately if you want myenergy devices to not pull power from the battery and also if you want myenergy devices to prevent the battery from charging (by putting it in eddi or zappi instead) unfortunately these setting are not in the app, it would be nice to alter this seasonally as my preferences differ between summer and winter. This requires another ct on the battery circuit. Great content as always guys!
Worth noting for new installs, it currently makes more £ sense to dump excess solar to Octopus Agile Export, and charge overnight with E7. YMMV.
Perhaps in your explanation of CTs you could have pointed out that the open circuit voltage can be quite high and give you quite a shock
short them out as temp ...
@@derekowen8729 indeed we know that but if you have to explain just what a CT is then you need to point out precautions that might not be obvious
He’s not explaining HOW to use it, he’s explaining what it does. He’s also not explained every other safety precaution that should be taken when performing an electrical installation.
@@Pugjamin I take your point but in stating that the output is only millivolts this could have some DIYer attempting their own install and getting a surprise I have seen electricians who thought that if they disconnected the leads then they must be dead !
Very true - an unburdened CT on-load is extremely dangerous but I don't think that the Zappi CTs are just CTs - they are current transducers with a CT front-end but (as Jordan mentioned in the vid) the system uses a voltage proportional to the line current for actual measurement. I had a quick dig around on the myenergi website but there is no technical spec' on these devices. It does say they come with a 5m tail that may be extended up to 100m (!) using ethernet cable. Given that the loop resistance of that type of cable is around 7 ohms per 100m, you would need a fairly chunky CT (a real one that is) to drive rated current through such a high burden (and that's ignoring the effects of capacitance). Just looking at physical size of the "CT" in the video, I'm pretty sure there's a bit more to it. Anybody got the technical spec for the transducers? Are they perhaps 4-20mA devices?
Great job - Ideal if you have space for all the equipment - True Green Install - how much for the outlay of equipment - and pay back periods....
Run another network switch, so that the owner can always extend the use of any wired stuff in the outbuilding...instead of hardwiring it.
Great vid again.
If it was me, I would have ran the power cable for the switch down, right angle right into trunking then up and out. Could loose the excess cable inside the trunking and neaten the install.
Great vid as always but can I add that it’s not a ‘chamfered edge’ that you did it was a ‘mitred edge’. Also vertical lines are checked for ‘plumb’ whereas horizontal lines are checked for ‘level’. Everyday is a school day Jordan, otherwise top marks 👍
Solar edge also sells a car charger it's great you should try it!
Excellent Jordan you are one of the best sparks i've seen ⚡
One thing I'd like to know with the Libi, is it capable of properly avoiding battery drain when the EV is charging and still allow the EV charger to charge at full power (from the grid)?
What i mean by that is not to just have the Zappi turn off/down it's charging rate to avoid battery drain, but for the Libi to actually not include the EV charger (in this case Zappi) in it's grid tie power output calculation - so that it can always provide the maximum battery output to the home, but not also provide power to the EV charger if it is charging.
This allows the EV charger to always charge at full power - using grid power when there isn't excess solar and to never drain down the battery which you want to preserve for home use only. The only way i can see it can do this is if the LIbi has the provision to exclude devices from the grid tie power calculation - either via a CT clamp from the Libi on that circuit or from smart communication between compatible devices (i.e. Zappi & Libi)
This is a sought after feature that other AC coupled battery systems like the Tesla Powerwall can't do - with such systems relying on the Zappi to sense output from the AC coupled battery and just turn down/off it's charging rate to avoid battery drain.
The current solution to this with systems like the Tesla Powerwall, is to have the EV charger run off a separate small CU, directly from the meter cabinet by another set of tails - so that the Grid CT from the battery is not on the same tails as the EV charger...effectively excluding the charger from the battery's Grid Tie calculation. This still allows chargers like the Zappi to charge off solar as they will still sense the export if you put their Grid CT ahead of the henley block for the extra set of tails. Only problem with this setup (aside from extra cost for a separate CU) is that the battery's smart features for data logging are then not showing the consumption of your EV charger at all - not really a problem in operation but can annoy the customer.
Seems that someone might be in need of a 12" compound miter saw to cut all the way through the trunking in one cut! 😁🍻
Data and mains SHOULD always be on separated containment to stop interference. Drilling two wholes a mm or two apart isn’t going to stop interference
They even put the ethernet cable through the consumer unit
@@sdgelectronics big no no that
UltraEV would be your friend for doing this!
Ah here, you two are a twisted pair! 🤣
If you terminate your cable with A on one side and B on the other side you get a crossover cable that ONLY works for 10/100 base ethernet!!!
To make a CORRECT crossover cable you need to also swap blue and brown pairs!!! (this will work for 10/100/1000 base ethernet)
Then again if any of the devices you are connecting has "Auto MDI-X" you can use a simple straight cable.
One thing I was taught during CCNA training (Cisco Certified Network Associate) is to avoid crossover cables (it is regarded as a non-standard cable).
PS : In Europe we typically use the B standard
Gigabit negotiates channels (i.e. there are no up-/downstream ports to cross between anymore), so if both network adapters implement the standard fully and correctly (that's the caveat...), you could swap the pairs in any configuration and it would still work.
@@HenryLoenwind Auto MDI/MDI-X is an optional feature of gigabit ethernet and not a requirement!
So if Auto MDI/MDI-X feature is not implemented it still complies to the standard.
If none of the devices has Auto MDI/MDI-X and you are trying to directly connect a MDI with MDI, or MDI-X with MDI-X, you will need a gigabit crossover cable (all pairs are bi-directional but you will still need to cross data lines A-B and C-D).
CT are always messy in these units. I don't know how you can sleep at night with the CT just hanging there. These panels need support for CT's built in - a place to run the line through for easy, neat CT connect (be nice if the CT's clipped into the panel or where on DIN rail)
Or, be even better if they were included in the breaker itself.
Sorry to be pedantic, but the current transformer 'steps down' the current in the main cable. So if the primary feed has 10A running through it, and the transformer has 1000 turns, the secondary current will be 10mA. This secondary current will pass through a resistor in the EVSE and generates a voltage (V=IR), which is proportional to the primary current. Yup, I'm a nerd 🤓
I bumped into one of your very nice electricians today in Saffron Waldon Tescos, had a nice chat, Mind he did seem to be a bit befuddled with the charger!🤣
In Aus the weather is the currently the complete opposite on the Gold Coast hitting up 35 degrees on the roof then add 10-15 + degrees inside... Reason we call it Soul destroying Solar in Summer hahah
Dear oh dear - lost my appetite
It was up the creek by planning it to the mm imho - nice to have a go at the suppliers - how dare they change anything
Using all that wall space to put up some electrical odds n sods in a nice clean well designed garage /workshop too - did you not notice those nice cabinets 🤔
Should’ve put all the gubbins in a in server cabinet/s - wired / tested off site to the “mm” - & rolled em in for hook up.
Get the doors to match the others cabinets - jobs a good un.
In & out in a day
Love your work though 👍
I’m here all day
I think untetheted charging stations are generally a better option.
The consumer can easily swap the cable at will:
- switch between tyoe1, type2 or domestic socket adaper depending on the vehicle.
- switch length depending on where they park.
- replace with new if old cable is broken.
If the charger can lock the cable even if it's not in use and if there's no space constraint with the plug sticking out, yes.
For our driveway, the plug sticking out would be an issue. It's narrow enough that (modern) cars can only open doors on one side already. And while we do have a gate, it cannot be locked as the house entrance is halfway up the driveway, so cable theft is an issue to consider.
@@HenryLoenwind fair points. I have an Easee wallbox.
The type2 socket can be permanently locked through the app.
The socket is tilted down, making the cable from the plug go straight down.
I guess mine is pointing out about 25 cm from the wall, maximum 30 cm (I'm not at home, can't verify).
I got a design idea from your comment. I think some installations could be better if the wallbox had the type2-socket on the side; kind of like the dummy socket for the Tesla Wall connector, but withe the powered socket on one side, and the dummy socket on the other side.
Brick Top Electrical Services. Those glasses 😘🤣🤣🤣
Hello, with regards to battery storage and car chargers for me there is little point of emptying your storage battery into the car battery so i have one db for zappi & eddi 2nd db for house , solar and battery via henley blocks, with the ct clamps in the right place the excess solar pv diverts into my battery then eddi and finally the car if plugged in, the battery storage then only supplies my home . car and battery storage charged from off peak rate 12.30 - 4.30
simon (Brunswick Electrical Services ltd)
Might be a good idea to outline how much PV power the site will actually make, given the limitations of roof direction,angle,etc,location,system size etc. People have delusions that an install can produce all their power.........so how much percentage of expected yearly demand can it provide????
The only issue I have with Libbi is the price. It is £2k more expensive than similar systems. Libbi will never pay for itself... And software integration is not worth the extra...
Loving the videos Jordan great work 🇮🇪😎👏
16:25 ..or you could just measure the hole spacing... ( Woudl be nice if they printed it on the case though)
The applicable expression is "Right Royal, Fur Lined, Ocean Going C***up
Brass nut and bolt with a spring washers or serrated washer lugged to the DB chassis then a 16mm fly lead if your really keen.
Personally I’d have done the trunking in steel and metal clad accessories looks better and I bit more commercial customer probs looks at it and thinks they’ve got a commercial level install considering the money this probably cost 🤪 also why cut in a single flush socket for the switch and not the double sockets 😂
data cables should not be in the same trunking with electric cables, really, correct me if im wrong.
good idea for screw holes marking with electric tape
Jordan: I have measured everything up to the mm
Also Jordan: I'm going to run the trunking to the end because I'm not 100% sure on where the battery is going to go
X-D Don't question yourself Jordan!
True! But considering the battery box might have arrived different to what was specified (as the other things did), probably best to be on the safe side! I can imagine this customer is quite particular about neatness if you look at the tools on the back wall!
All I can say is - I wish I could afford garage/workshop cabinets like that!
Yeah, I have garage envy. Mind you, it would just encourage me to buy more bicycles and I think I’ve reached my wife’s threshold already. 😅
Keep an eye out on eBay - even for offices cabinets - I’ve had units worth £2k for not a lot - shame Artisan/Jordan decided to take up loads of wall space - If I was Client I’d ask about considering units in server units - & I could put some matching doors on!
Shouldn't be mixing low voltage data cable with 240v
240 v is low voltage
Aye, I wondered about that. Don't the (UK) wiring regs require physical segregation of data and power cables?
Ahh the mystery of the consumer unit doorbell transformer
@@edc1569 no mystery - BS7671 Section 528 applies.
Great content really enjoy watching & Learning guys , l,m Got taken on now full time sparky apprenticeship
really enjoying it learning tons more with Tommy, a great boss , Have a great Christmas to you all 🎄 ⚡️👊
Like the video. What i'd like to know is how does the inverter match the phase of the mains supply
Ah..an Artiasan calls a mitre a chamfer, I learn just so much 😉
Great vid Jordan..... Am I reading it right? You showed 2 inverters in the system on your laptop? One Solar Edge and the integrated Libbi inverter on top of the two batteries. Or was that just a generic graphic? If it is right, interested to see how they interact with each other. Can't wait for the next one
11:30 you're splitting the green and blue pairs. This is where one data bundle is split across one wire that's interleaved with the other data pair and this causes cross talk issues. And unfortunately it will work in low speed and short run data applications even though it is not proper and can cause issues. This is how you tell the difference between somebody who does data and somebody who doesn't.
And also why a data person comes in and ends up cutting off all the ends and starting over, or requiring that they do the ends themselves.
I'm glad that you're thinking about hardlined networking it solves so many issues with Wireless and for fixed objects it doesn't make sense to do Wi-Fi. It's not like that Zappy needs to be movable and Mobile.
What? He’s using the correct wiring.
The bigger issue is using pass through connectors.
What are you talking about, he’s using standard B wiring for it? 🙄
@@Etacovda63 pass-through connectors are awesome. Just treated myself to a crimper that does that and haven't gotten to use it yet, found out it won't do regular crimps.
This is like the third video that I've noticed it in. At least he's consistently doing it wrong!
@Imark 777
Explain further please or put a link up please
You're wrong, he's wiring it completely correctly. In T568B pins 3 and 6 are either orange pair split, or green pair split. Are you the clown who puts the pairs in next to eachother, not realising what the standard is? I'd be chopping your terminations off!
Why do you need a separate Inverter when the Libby has one integrated?
What software did you use at the begining fir your design layout of isolator etc
Just done on Canva
you don't need to make crossover ethernet cables anymore. all current ethernet switches are gigabit and can handle the use of straight cables.
thoughts on running the data cable through the CU ? / and also segregation of power / data ? .. call me old school if you will but would love to see metal containment and accessories , just seems more robust some how
I can’t speak for the UK but in Canada Data and Power have to be separated by 6 inches or they can be ran alongside each other if protected via like a tech cable or conduit
Well done explanations
Could have gone full SolarEgde system for quick charge and discharge rate and also DC charging from the Panels.
You could rabbit on for hours about CT's, quite a subject, is that a bare conductor I clocked there?
My zappi V1 of 3 .5 years is now removed and a different make is in its place.
I'm hoping that an Australian designed charger will last.
17:00 How will you deal with snow when no scaffolding? Can use a long pole from the ground or ?
You can get copper round pin crimps for terminating into the bars
Solar is great when the sun shines but useless if the panels are covered with snow or the sun is blanked by mist or fog. My nominal 4KW array managed only 10KWh over the last 10 days Dece ber 2022
Continued from above: that is: only one unit of electricity per day, not even enough to heat domestic water, or charge a battery or car. Solar has its uses but cannot be relied upon.
When you drill into a ceiling, why do you never hit a hidden pipe or cable?
Could you not strip more insulation off the thick cpc and divide it across 2 holes on the earth bar? - Then a bit of insulation tape over the divide!
Interesting idea.
Crude, but works i suppose....to make it neater I'd strip a good section off, use earth sleeving on the 2 'divides', maybe even a bit of heat-shrink on the Y joint for super neatness.
@@blower1 That's what I was implying.
Oh, there's actually people responding to that question.
I'd put up a PE bar and ran a properly sized cable into the CU. They only cost about 6 bucks...
Split the cable and put into 2 ways
CT clamps are dirty hacks when you don't have intelligent enough components in your system - if you look at a decent inverter-solar-charger (like something from Victron) it will handle diverting excess PV to charge batteries, or a vehicle, or feed back into the grid if both of those are full. It also has bluetooth/wifi and remote monitoring features (cloud) to tell you exactly how much is going in and out.
Sounds intriguing. As a retired power system engineer who commissioned literally 1000s of these so-called 'dirty-hacks' in electricity substations, I'm very interested to learn more of the intelligent components of which you speak. How does this work exactly?
Maybe there are some poor implementations out there but CTs can be extremely accurate and fast responding. My inverters is 5kW, my supply is capable of 100A or 24kW. CT makes perfect sense as I don’t need to disturb any of the existing supply or deal with circuits passing 100A
@@edc1569 these don’t appear CTs in the truest sense. Based on their physical dimensions, I seriously doubt they can cope with the burden of 100m of CAT6 twisted pair at rated current. They appear to be current _transducers_ but the manufacturer’s website doesn’t give sufficient detail. Besides, my original query of @ashort01 was what “intelligent” systems comprise to eliminate the use of CTs or transducers.
@@protectiongeek I have a grid ie inverter, and it does pretty well matching discharge of the batteries with the load, my half hourly meeter readings come in as low single watts of import under most loads
I have never been able to calculate the battery to be profitable, because of this we only install them in off grid systems where they are necessary.
As a consumer, I’m looking to be able to store solar energy made during the day for use at night. Not having a battery system would mean I could only run my appliances and charge my electric car during the day. But I work during the day, so having the battery storage system makes more sense to me. The initial investment is high and it’s a shame modern houses don’t come prebuilt with such solar/battery systems.
@@CastleKnight7 Even in that case, battery pack is not profitable.
Are you sure the CTs that you ran to the house are reading correctly with all of that cable? I would think voltage drop would cause an issue with such a low voltage signal.
CT readings on up to 100m are fine using a twisted pair data cable.
Is that ethernet cable inside a consumer unit??
Where are Lee and John? Not seen them in videos for a little while.
There’s an exclusive solo video with them all Christmas week 👌🏼
Lee was in the video......just fleetingly
Loved the video, from a network engineer POV, I only hated two things about that install. 1st (minor): the dumb network switch. Those things are at most layer two switches and so when placed in places that can be accessed, are a pita. Also, I would guess the tenants of the property aren't doing anything like MAC address whitelisting or having separate VLANS (security, iot, general and guest are the basic ones in my book). The other thing is I just hope you didn't bury cat 6 even in conduit. Anything that goes outside data wise should be fiber or a P2P bridge.
This is a house, not a commercial complex.....fibre outside?! - get real!, I think you have been to far too many IT security seminar's.
External grade throw it in
@@blower1 haha was thinking the same
Fiber has more to do with ground isolation between buildings. There are inexpensive fiber to copper converters and 4 fiber cable with gel is pretty cheap.
@@marossgnv Regardless, completely unnecessary expense on residential properties such as this....and your idea of inexpensive is all relative, compared to cat 6 in conduit or even armoured cat 6 - that lot is a ridiculous unnecessary expense just to run a network link to an EV charger and battery storage.
Also no point worrying about electrically isolating your network connection between buildings when it's all running off the same, non-isolated, power connection (including an exported ground)
Can you have trace heat on Solar panels help remove the Snow?
Good idea! Even if the grid was down, you could use energy from the battery to melt the snow/ice sheet.
This energy would be quickly replenished, and the installation could continue to generate.💚
Jordan, what is the Modbus enclosure you are using? Nice 'from scratch' video
Any experience with Puredrive storage batteries?
I thought Artisan exclusively installed Hagar fuse boards!?
I wondered if anyone in the comments section had any advice. I was lucky enough to get a Green Homes grant to cover the full cost of install for a 3.3kw array into a 3.6kw Solis inverter. Because it was a grant I had no control over the number of panels, I could get 14 on my South facing roof(I tried to find out pre install but to no avail). I want to oversize the inverter (it will take over 5kw and will accept a second string) so got a quote from the original installer - £3500 for 3 more panels! Obviously there are the fixed costs of a scaffold, but! Am I stuck with that type of pricing?
For the 25mm earth. Just do what some plank did that I found recently. Cut some strands of the conductor off until it fits. 🙄
Or do what I do and use a 25mm - 16mm reducing pin crimp.
Fusebox will accept up to 16mm in the earth terminal bar.
For the earth termination I would just split the cores and take it into two terminals, it seems rough but atleast it will be throughly connected
If pulling new Network Cable, why Cat6. Why not Cat8 for future proofing the signal for far superior latency and bandwidth...
What? Have you seen how shielded and over the top Cat8 is? Cat6 will do 10gig at 55meters. There is no chance this EV equipment will ever need a gigabits worth of bandwidth. Also, look up how annoyingly complicated it is to terminate a Cat8 keystone.
Just the test gear to validate a CAT8 install would double the price of this job. Have you ever worked with CAT8 cable?
What is that pop-up work table?
Jordan uou sound like you went to Marlborough or Rugby
How did you end up a sparky. ? Or rather.. it's amusing that that you did.
Life is life.
8kW is *not* that much... Talk about the loads from, say, an induction cooker, microwave and heat pump; oh, and the electric dryer... It adds up pretty quickly...
What're you doing out on the Worksite anyhow? You're supposed to be back at the office with your feet up smoking a big fat cigar! ;-)
The grid picks that up, no point spending money trying to accomodate the 0.01% of time load when you have the grid. Also there’s no point in meeting a demand if you just run out of energy storage anyway, might as well just provide a lower contribution for longer.
Stripping cat6 with hedge cutters 🤣🤣🤣🤣 140mm side cutters would be a bit better 🙄
How much is a solar edge system?
With the CTs do they need to be calibrated to compensate for the resistance of a long run (like here from house to garage) of several tens of metres of twisted pair cable, as the output is in millivolts?
I actually think they work using current and not a voltage, a lot of industrial sensors work like this so you don’t need to worry about volt drop.
@@edc1569 Ah - that makes sense. So if it’s a 100:1 transformer it just sets the compliance voltage to whatever is needed to drive 1/100th of whatever was measured.
You answered your own question.
I have found CT’s readings can be out by as much as 10-15%! Or is my Zappi installation not right?
How far away is the ct clamp from the zappi ?
@@persona250 About 5-6 meters.
Oh my god please dont just push the wires in if they are stranded you can do that with solids but with strandeds you gotta unlock the connector first with a screwdriver
I called that hole marking trick the dirty finger trick LOL I take a piece of paper, Place it on the back of the device and rub a finger over it. if there is the slightest dirt on You finger it will leave a nice impression.
Or in an office environment I'd scan the Device on a Copier. ..
568A to 568B is not a crossover Cable.. You are swapping the wrong pairs..
Cut the strands of the earth wire if it wont fit😄😄😄😄
Is it a transformer or a transducer?
I love fitting the myenergi kit & can’t wait to be let loose with a Libbi. Is there any reason you’re hardwiring the CT’s back to the zappi instead of using a Harvi?
Must always be better if you can do it?
That's a mitre, not a chamfer
I tried to turn on Subtitle its not showing closed caption. Oh dang! Great work! 👍 Cheers!
Glad you are back Jordon. I couldn’t get on with that other guy so I did stop watching. I am back 👍🏻
Welcome back
Crossover cables aren't really a thing anymore on any modern equipment.
So, you haven’t come up with a solar panel heating solution yet!
Is it OK to connect a CT clamp to the other end of tens of metres of cat 6 twisted pair? Given it’s a weak analog voltage that’s being measured, I’d expect cable losses to cause the Zappi to under-read the current passing through the clamp
Yes Steve i have been advised not to do this for that exact reason . However i see EV jobs extended all the time which dont seem to have problems .
A current transformer will transform current into current which theoretically has no influence on cable length.
So if you use a longer cable there will be a bigger voltage drop on the cable but the current is the same no matter how long the cable is.
@@ppdan unfortunately, it won't be the same. Cable length, or burden to be more precise, is one of the most important parameters to consider when specifying a current transformer. Over-burdening a CT will have an effect on the output of the CT, affecting its accuracy.
High impedance input on Zappi = low current through Cat 6 regardless of its relative length. Therefore voltage drop not an issue.