On mine i found that the "Leaper" , slack take up eyeloop must be directly above the needle bar. If tilted too far the thread will fray and break after 3-4 stitches, even with the correct timing of the cams and bobbin. Adjusting it above stopped my breaking.
I know this video was quite a few years ago, but I'm wondering if you had figured out your machine and working with it? I've got one of these machines and I really enjoy it but you have to understand they did the absolute bare minimum when they manufacture these machines, they definitely need a little bit of work to get them dialed in and timed right, I have found they are very user-friendly and easily modifiable and customizable, I've made a couple of videos and put it on my channel showing what I have done to my machine, if you still have questions, I can try to answer them, it's a little hard through a comment on a video, but I hope you have figured out what the problem was and you're able to use the machine and enjoy it, thanks for taking time to make your video though 👍🏻🙂
Just fixed mine with the same problem, with each turn of the crank, the machine releases enough cotter to complete a stitch, if you needle is positioned too low then your cotton will snap in the down position where the thread is stretched, I came to the conlusion that when my machine was made the welded the needle stop in the wrong place by a mm or two so I liinished about 2mm of the head of the needle and problem solved. The reason your first few stitches work is from the extra slack in the cotton from starting. if this works for you please do a video so others can benefit. Thanking you Leith
hi guys also had trouble, but i found by looking at the broken thread it was wearing as it was coming through the needle down tube so i removed the tube and found that when they squeeze and weld the end to hold the needle there are sharp bits of steel and in mine a piece of weld ?? a few minuits with a small round file cleaned up the sharp edges ,improved it out of site.
Is your needle on correctly? It looks like it is on wrong the flat part should be against the post. That could also be breaking your thread. Also these machines do need some filing of rough edges and burrs. And believe or not too little tension can also break thread. I have the same machine and after some filing and deburring it sews great. Also what size needle and thread are you using? Is that regular cotton thread or is it bonded nylon?
You need lower your toptension..would be my guess.??.and bobintension need to be checked too..the tread shut hold the shuttle..and at least i think your tread is not a good nylon one..cheap treads not work on them patcher Machines..
I had the same issue. Figured out the bobbin sled does not release the top thread, but carries it back clockwise, and then pinches it. This is caused by the sled carrier not going anticlockwise far enough to leave a gap for the thread to escape. Solved by using my spare sled carrier on which the upright part is 1mm longer. Also sanded down the buldge on the sled and the hole the needle goes down in to create a gap for the top thread to escape the bobbin
I don't think this issue is caused by only using one of the tensioning disks. Some machines only have one of them. I agree that you probably should not run the machine with the thread on top of the foot. Get the thread under the foot, pull it straight out behind the foot and start sewing.
On mine i found that the "Leaper" , slack take up eyeloop must be directly above the needle bar. If tilted too far the thread will fray and break after 3-4 stitches, even with the correct timing of the cams and bobbin. Adjusting it above stopped my breaking.
I know this video was quite a few years ago, but I'm wondering if you had figured out your machine and working with it? I've got one of these machines and I really enjoy it but you have to understand they did the absolute bare minimum when they manufacture these machines, they definitely need a little bit of work to get them dialed in and timed right, I have found they are very user-friendly and easily modifiable and customizable, I've made a couple of videos and put it on my channel showing what I have done to my machine, if you still have questions, I can try to answer them, it's a little hard through a comment on a video, but I hope you have figured out what the problem was and you're able to use the machine and enjoy it, thanks for taking time to make your video though 👍🏻🙂
Just fixed mine with the same problem, with each turn of the crank, the machine releases enough cotter to complete a stitch, if you needle is positioned too low then your cotton will snap in the down position where the thread is stretched, I came to the conlusion that when my machine was made the welded the needle stop in the wrong place by a mm or two so I liinished about 2mm of the head of the needle and problem solved. The reason your first few stitches work is from the extra slack in the cotton from starting. if this works for you please do a video so others can benefit. Thanking you Leith
What is "liinished"?
hi guys also had trouble, but i found by looking at the broken thread it was wearing as it was coming through the needle down tube so i removed the tube and found that when they squeeze and weld the end to hold the needle there are sharp bits of steel and in mine a piece of weld ?? a few minuits with a small round file cleaned up the sharp edges ,improved it out of site.
Is your needle on correctly? It looks like it is on wrong the flat part should be against the post. That could also be breaking your thread. Also these machines do need some filing of rough edges and burrs. And believe or not too little tension can also break thread. I have the same machine and after some filing and deburring it sews great. Also what size needle and thread are you using? Is that regular cotton thread or is it bonded nylon?
What thread do you recommend? Thickness etc.
Thank you I was having the same problem I had my needle the wrong way!
My keeps doing the same thing so what's the fix?
Flip the needle over round side out I had the same problem just fixed it
Brandon B THIS WORKED FOR ME!
Yep, this solved my problem also!! Thanks for sharing Brandon B
THANK YOU IT WORKED
Brandon B can you make a video of it
Flip just the needle or the whole cylinder that holds the needle?
Also the rod that holds the needle can be unscrewed and moved up just a hair to possibly fix the problem.
I have just got mine dialed in using 135 nylon with size 22 needle.
You need lower your toptension..would be my guess.??.and bobintension need to be checked too..the tread shut hold the shuttle..and at least i think your tread is not a good nylon one..cheap treads not work on them patcher Machines..
I had the same issue. Figured out the bobbin sled does not release the top thread, but carries it back clockwise, and then pinches it. This is caused by the sled carrier not going anticlockwise far enough to leave a gap for the thread to escape. Solved by using my spare sled carrier on which the upright part is 1mm longer. Also sanded down the buldge on the sled and the hole the needle goes down in to create a gap for the top thread to escape the bobbin
Where did you order your machine from?
your tensioner is wrong you need to go thru both loops and you tread needs to go under the foot check the group on facebook china leather shoe patcher
I don't think this issue is caused by only using one of the tensioning disks. Some machines only have one of them.
I agree that you probably should not run the machine with the thread on top of the foot. Get the thread under the foot, pull it straight out behind the foot and start sewing.
I stopped using mine because of the same problem
Don’t be a quitter man, these machines can be pretty slick once figured out.
You need to edit the background noise out it’s very hard to hear you!
First part made me seasick.
Berapa