I noticed your crank was a little stuck on the flywheel side but on my one and the 3 sets of cases i have here the flywheel and bearing just pushes in by hand and lifts out again on the flywheel side.. ive been told as the cases have steel inserts its fine it still seems strange that the bearing isnt tight on the case. Just wondering if your one was still a tight fit after you removed it and wiped it and i have a problem here hope this makes sense thanks.
I still have the parts disassembled so I went and checked it. I can't slide the crank with the bearing in the crankcase on the flywheel side. SO yes it is still a tight fit. I think what you could do is create some slight dimples and use a bearing locking product when you assemble it. The most important in my opinion is to prevent the bearing outer race to spin inside the crankcase.
@jh-tech5546 thanks so much!! It's been something that bugs me for a while now lol I have been through 3 sets of crank cases trying to get a tight fit 🙃 😅 I have one last set coming to try, then I'm just going to do as you say! I've learned a few things along the way like if yours is a 34 mm crank like mine was you can get a kick compatible 35mm crank from a 2kf model and have it rebuilt with a 3tb prox rod also check the bearing behind your timing chain doesn't move back and forth on the shaft if it does like mine a new c3 koyo bearing might fix it the gear is easy to press off and on again leaving a .6 too .8mm gap between bearing and gear or the other option is moritz kullman in Germany sells full remachined rebuilt cranks for £500 also check you 3rd and 5th gears really carefully on both shafts for pitting again moritz sells new remade stronger ones my gears were really bad! And every spare gearbox I've seen on ebay is bad 3rd and 5th too, You probably already know all this but anyone stumbling on this might find it useful
@@SuperAnthony1982 Thanks! You definitely know more about these engines than me! I bought this engine because I will need the balancer shaft for a TT that I have and is missing that. A project for the future.
Hermano saludos tendrias la.parte 4 de volver armar desde cero cn cambios de rolimeras y todo
I hope to make the assembly video next summer
Tengo una y el mecanico q me la.armo siento q no coloco todo lo q lleva dentro las partes de la caja y los carte kiero ver todo lo q lleva desde cero
Привет.будет видео по сборке fz 750.
Yes, I will make the video's on the assembly of the FZ 750 engine. But I hope you have some patience. Still working on it.
I noticed your crank was a little stuck on the flywheel side but on my one and the 3 sets of cases i have here the flywheel and bearing just pushes in by hand and lifts out again on the flywheel side.. ive been told as the cases have steel inserts its fine it still seems strange that the bearing isnt tight on the case. Just wondering if your one was still a tight fit after you removed it and wiped it and i have a problem here hope this makes sense thanks.
I still have the parts disassembled so I went and checked it. I can't slide the crank with the bearing in the crankcase on the flywheel side. SO yes it is still a tight fit. I think what you could do is create some slight dimples and use a bearing locking product when you assemble it. The most important in my opinion is to prevent the bearing outer race to spin inside the crankcase.
@jh-tech5546 thanks so much!! It's been something that bugs me for a while now lol I have been through 3 sets of crank cases trying to get a tight fit 🙃 😅 I have one last set coming to try, then I'm just going to do as you say! I've learned a few things along the way like if yours is a 34 mm crank like mine was you can get a kick compatible 35mm crank from a 2kf model and have it rebuilt with a 3tb prox rod also check the bearing behind your timing chain doesn't move back and forth on the shaft if it does like mine a new c3 koyo bearing might fix it the gear is easy to press off and on again leaving a .6 too .8mm gap between bearing and gear or the other option is moritz kullman in Germany sells full remachined rebuilt cranks for £500 also check you 3rd and 5th gears really carefully on both shafts for pitting again moritz sells new remade stronger ones my gears were really bad! And every spare gearbox I've seen on ebay is bad 3rd and 5th too, You probably already know all this but anyone stumbling on this might find it useful
@@SuperAnthony1982 Thanks! You definitely know more about these engines than me! I bought this engine because I will need the balancer shaft for a TT that I have and is missing that. A project for the future.