9+ years later and I find out that Matt did a how to video on my exact table saw. Thank you Matt, this video was invaluable in accomplishing this work. I believe I got it done in about 2 1/2 hours.
I am restoring an old Delta and was having a heck of a time figuring out the arbor. Not exactly the same, but this gave me the info I needed. Thanks Matt!
Thanks for putting this together, it really helped me get my table saw back up and running. I would suggest more penetrating oil for removal, and a good oil for installing. 3/4" pipe is a good helper for getting the bearings back on. A proper bearing splitter makes the removal easier and safer for your arbor. Thanks again!
@@weinigholz-herusajordanrag1327 I used PB Blaster. No clue if it is the best, but it has worked well for me in the past. I think I found it at either a hardware or auto parts store. Your availability may be different.
Thank you so much for this. I just bought a used R4511 and the arbor was feeling rough and had no idea where to start getting access to the bearings. This makes things so much easier!
@@mcremona - Unfortunately the bearings in my motor are also shot. I believe the saw was kept in a humid basement. So all new bearings for the arbor and motor!
Nice job Matt - To others, I strongly recommend using a simple arbor press to put those bearings on, but good on Matt for improvising. Also, try freezing the shaft before you press it on. A thousandth extra clearance makes a world of difference.
Peter Brown I'm going to pick one up next time I'm there. I was planning on getting one for this job but spontaneously decided to tackle the job one night. Thanks Peter!
Matthew Cremona I've been there. When you get the bug to get it done! Also when I did my replacement I got Japan made bearings. I was told they are the best. Considering the pain, I wanted to get ones that lasted a while! :)
Matt, You make everything look easy! That's your talent. LOL! Thanks for posting this. I have an older grizzly that's making noises. Been awhile since I put it together after transporting the monster home. I feel encouraged to look into the problems that are surfacing. You Da Man! Thanks Tom/aka/DocSavage45
Hey Tom! This was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Most of the time was spent trying to figure out how to get that arbor out since I didn't have any disassembly instructions.
It is helpful to freeze the shaft and heat the bearing. Heating to 200 deg F won't stress a bearing, even 100 deg F will help, it will most likely slide on with a bit of oil and finger pressure. Thanks for the excellent video and audio quality.
Matt . I need to replace my bearings also, but I have a more difficult problem. The pivot bracket is so worn that it will only raise the blade 1". The bracket comes off easily enough but I can't find a replacement. Do you have any ideas? Thanks for all you do.
James Aitken I haven't had to replace the switch on my table saw. I have had switches stop working. In the case of the rocker switches, like on this table saw, taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts will get it working again.
i have the ridgid r4512. Do you know how different the set up in my saw is from this saw by any chance? and do you know where i could purchase the bearings made for my saw as well?
I know it is a old post... but thank you very much!!! I have the exact saw and bought the bearings and just finished putting them in. After putting the top back on I didn’t even have to make any adjustments. Got lucky on that one. One thing I did a little different was after I pressed the bearing into the back I put the arbor back in and used the nut on the end to assist with seating the arbor bearing on the right. Keep up the good work. I am actually going to sell my r4511 to upgrade to the grizzly g1023rlw very soon. It will be easier to sell the r4511 now that it actually works great again.
I see you just did this a month ago. I just tried ordering bearings from Ridgid and was told they are no longer available (Although I think the girl on the line was clueless). Where did you get the parts? Do you have part numbers?
@@chrissimonton9939 The bearings are size 6004. The stock ones are 6004 zz which have the metal dust shields. If you want to switch to rubber seals to keep dust out 6004 2rs.
Laura & Bob Martin - thanks. Once I realized it was a 6004-ZZ bearing it was easy to find and I ordered online. Ridgid has stopped selling it so all the parts houses were telling me it was discontinued.
Awesome video Matt. Excellent explanation as usual. I have the same saw. Mine is a recall unit. Been a few years since the recall, but the guy came out to the house and changed out the parts. I don't think I'll need bearings for a while, but your video is a keeper.
Brian Igielski Thank you Brian! I checked my saw for the recall while at the store getting it. Nice to hear you didn't have to bring it into a service center.
Jerry Sateriale I got them from eReplacementParts.com Here's the part for reference: www.ereplacementparts.com/ball-bearing-6004-p-571151.html?osCsid=m2k5uo96a33rm15bf2eco24ur4
Mike Fulton Thank Mike. Mostly noise but I could also visually see the seal on one was damaged. The saw also didn't cut as well as it used to. It lacked power.
Nice job Matthew. Doesn't look like your saw is really old enough to need new bearings, maybe a bad set from the factory. I recently changed out the head on my jointer for a Shelix and bought a puller from Harbor Freight... worked good enough for my needs.
John Conklin They must have been a bad set. They went out after about 4 years. Maybe I just use my saw too much? haha! I've been meaning to pick up a puller from HF but decided to (finally) change these out one night on a whim. I'll pick one up next time I'm there. Would be a handy tool to have around.
Didn't know you had mechanics tools Matt? I have a small block engine I need rebuilt, can you guide me through the process? Haha. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. I'm sure many will appreciate the info. Your table saw will run soooo sweet now!
Interesting how much changed from the 3650, besides being a hybrid instead of contractor. On the 3650 the pulley is held by a set screw and the bearing by a snap ring. I went in there thinking I was replacing bearings but actually had to replace the arbor. So my saw was down for a week waiting for the right part, that was fun. I managed to do it without taking it all apart but I ended up cutting a hand screw clamp in half and then screwing it back together inside the saw to press it all back in place. Apparently if you stick the arbor in the freezer for a while first you can get the first bearing on and and then get it back in and into the second bearing just by hand if you are quick enough but that was a handy tip I picked up after the fact, just like you :)
krtwood The potential for the saw being down for any length of time is why I had been putting off this job for so long. With my luck I would start the repair only for something to happen that prevents me from getting the saw back up and running. I've done that freezer trick when I replace the bearing in one of my chainsaws. I just figured I'd give room temp a try (laziness)
I have to 4512 model. I was just wondering if my bearings might need to be replaced. It makes a squealing noise at start up but goes away after a few seconds. Still cuts real good. Could it be the bearings or maybe a belt?
Hey Matt! What were your symptoms that told you the bearings needed replacing? I have a 15 amp Dewalt contractors table saw and on start up it will occasionally trip the new 20 amp breaker. I think I have too much friction in the system. Also the first few seconds there appears to be some vibration in the blade and then it dampens out. What are your thoughts?
I have the same question. I was just given a really nice Steel City cabinet saw, my first cabinet saw, I’m in LOVE! I know the belt is deformed since it was sitting unused for years, so I've ordered a new belt. There is a noticeable vibration when I shut the saw off. It could be the belt, but I suspect the bearings. Although I'd have thought they'd be noisier at speed.
Hey Matthew. Great video. I have just been searching youtube in vain. Trying to find a video if my saw and how to fix it. I have just had my belt break. On inspection it looks like the pulley on the motor side of things has slid aling the shaft and in now out of alignment with the pulley driving the blade. I am not looking forward to trying to fix this. I am in not that technical and i best take many photos before and during disassembly 😂😂😂 i am not sure how i will access the pulley other that removing the motor. I am also not sure it i need to remive the table top or if i can even remove or shift the pulley. The shaft it is on has no nut keeping it in place. I need to figure out how and why its moved. Maybe it has sone type of locking bar but anyway just thiught id say thanks, your video isnt exactly what i need to do but its inspired my to try. 😂😂😂
I got into changing the arbor bearings in this same saw before to, I aslo had to spend a lot a time freeing up the trunnions. The granite top works great for my shop because its not heated and I don't have to worry about rust but other than that I haven't been all that happy with it, kind of a maintenance pig:(
Yeah, but the problem was in the shaft from the hand wheel to the pinion and not in the actual trunnions. I've had a few other small problems with the saw as well.
Hey Matt, I have the same Ridgid granite table saw as you, R4511 I believe. I have had an issue that when changing the angle of the blade that it does not actually stop at 90 degrees, but when I get close (90.4 degrees according to my magnetic degree finder) I hear a loud "pop" and then it rotates freely again until I get back towards 90 degrees. Have you ever seen this issue or could you give me some guidance on this? Also, have you run into any issues with finding parts on this saw? Even ebay I come up completely empty.
Might check the stops. There's a hole in the top of the table to adjust that. The bearings were the only parts that I ever needed but those are just generic parts. Once you know the size, you can order those from anywhere. Is there a part you're looking for specifically?
Thgis is a good video. My saw may need new bearings... I think. I wish you would have demonstrated the performace of your saw with the old bearings then the new ones. Mine is not noisy, but the blade sort of viabrates under some conditions. Its strange.
Cartridge bearings are designated by 3 measurements: Outter diameter, inner diameter, and thickness. (You'll see them labeled for sale with specs like 41x30x17, representing a 41mm diameter bearing with a 30mm opening that is 17mm thick.) Measure your old ones and search for those specs and you should find what you need!
Hi matt. I used to work as a mechanic and had to replace wheel bearings all the time, it's a similar process, although we would use a hydraulic press to do it. Perhaps if you went to your local mechanic they would allow you to use their press to do this,might make life easier if you have to do it again and also would have less risk of damaging the new bearings.
Mark Chapnell I hope I don't have to do it again but who knows maybe on different machine. Good tip. I would actually have to plan the work a bit instead of just jumping into it one night like I did here. Thanks!
Lasse Langwadt Christensen Funny thing: after I posted this video John's video popped up as a recommended video. He's got some great tips in there. I liked how he used a threaded rod to pull the bearing into the trunnion.
You know Matt I do have a hydraulic press at work, and who the hell already have you a thumbs down?? Seems like u have almost the same ts as me. This will become usefull
***** I'll have to keep that in mind in case I need anything pressed. maybe some dress pants but I think that's a different kind of press... :) Thanks Dema!
mikkosha Thanks! I've actually used that trick when I replaced the bearings on one of my chainsaws. It was winter so I left the shaft outside (it was one of those -20 days) and put the bearings in the oven. They took almost no force to seat.
pretty much just had to remove the digital display, but it was pretty easy to replace,bang out one side,remove that bearing then placed the spindle between the jaws of my vise and bang off the other, then the new ones went on just as easy, works great now thanks for asking
Stuby nubs, and I disagree. He's got an excellent video on lubricating a table saw. I was just gifted a Steel City cabinet saw, used grease on the gears. Works so.... much smoother. Did the same with my older Delta contractor saw, sawdust didn't cause any issues.
That’s I needed to see how that works before ruining everything by forcing the wrong order. I hate to sound like that guy cause I’m not, I’ve been a union Ironworker for a long time now and often have to get creative with bolts mechanical concrete anchors and footings. So Contrary to what seems work wise to the many , The nut as protection from beating a head of a bolt or stud by having it just above the top of the bolt is taking way more of a chance of seizing the nut than mushrooming the bolt. The bolt is more of an easy fix, the seized nut is not. The way to do it if you can’t rig up a softener is to run your nut down out of the way and if you happen to thrash your threads or mushroom it (within reason) removing your nut will clean up your threads for you on its way off like a thread chaser, just don’t try to power thru it , you need to spin into the damage , back off, spin in, back off. To let the savings out of the nut so not to seize it that way. Not optimal. but in a pinch it will get you to the next step. Hope that helped someone. I know I needed it a couple dozen times before when it was taught to me.
I disagree. Hammering the outer race will transfer the force through the ball bearings to the inner race where the insertion friction resides. This exactly what you DON'T want. Hitting the inner race simply puts the insertion force on the surface with the friction, no force will be transferred through the ball bearings.
9+ years later and I find out that Matt did a how to video on my exact table saw. Thank you Matt, this video was invaluable in accomplishing this work. I believe I got it done in about 2 1/2 hours.
You sure attacked it like you had been through it before! Great info Matt.
***** I've replaced bearings on a chainsaw before. That wasn't too different than this. Thanks Tyler!
This was helpful for me today replacing the bearings on my 4511. Thanks!
I am restoring an old Delta and was having a heck of a time figuring out the arbor. Not exactly the same, but this gave me the info I needed. Thanks Matt!
+laanyan awesome! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Matt. I just ordered a set.
Thanks for putting this together, it really helped me get my table saw back up and running. I would suggest more penetrating oil for removal, and a good oil for installing. 3/4" pipe is a good helper for getting the bearings back on. A proper bearing splitter makes the removal easier and safer for your arbor. Thanks again!
Hi there - do you have a suggestion for your favorite brand of oil/penetrating lubricant that's safe for Woodworking machinery clean up/parts?
@@weinigholz-herusajordanrag1327 I used PB Blaster. No clue if it is the best, but it has worked well for me in the past. I think I found it at either a hardware or auto parts store. Your availability may be different.
Thanks been putting off replacing bearing. this is helpful
Great tutorial! Exactly what i was looking for!
Extremely helpful video, Matt. Well done and thanks for sharing.
Steve Collins Thank you, Steve!
Thanks Matt! This video was very helpful. I just replaced my shot bearings, saw is running smooth again!
+Mark Lundberg awesome!
Thank you so much for this. I just bought a used R4511 and the arbor was feeling rough and had no idea where to start getting access to the bearings. This makes things so much easier!
awesome!
@@mcremona - Unfortunately the bearings in my motor are also shot. I believe the saw was kept in a humid basement. So all new bearings for the arbor and motor!
Anyone interested in changing the motor bearings on a R4511, they are 6203 (I used ZZ so could heat the bearings for easy fit to the shaft.)
thank you for showing me how to remove the table top, you saved me a lot of trouble
+DAVID SONNIER awesome! Glad it helped
Amazed you don't own a heavier duty table saw. Good video!
Nice job Matt - To others, I strongly recommend using a simple arbor press to put those bearings on, but good on Matt for improvising. Also, try freezing the shaft before you press it on. A thousandth extra clearance makes a world of difference.
Cool. Yours are easier to get to! When I did mine I picked up a bearing puller from harbor freight. Totally worth it!
Peter Brown I'm going to pick one up next time I'm there. I was planning on getting one for this job but spontaneously decided to tackle the job one night. Thanks Peter!
Matthew Cremona I've been there. When you get the bug to get it done! Also when I did my replacement I got Japan made bearings. I was told they are the best. Considering the pain, I wanted to get ones that lasted a while! :)
Peter Brown you're a smarter man than I. Should have gone with fancier bearings :)
Matthew Cremona
Naw, just lazy... :)
Great video, I have the same saw. Will you be aligning the blade at 45 deg too?
Matt,
You make everything look easy! That's your talent. LOL! Thanks for posting this. I have an older grizzly that's making noises. Been awhile since I put it together after transporting the monster home. I feel encouraged to look into the problems that are surfacing. You Da Man! Thanks
Tom/aka/DocSavage45
Hey Tom! This was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Most of the time was spent trying to figure out how to get that arbor out since I didn't have any disassembly instructions.
It is helpful to freeze the shaft and heat the bearing. Heating to 200 deg F won't stress a bearing, even 100 deg F will help, it will most likely slide on with a bit of oil and finger pressure. Thanks for the excellent video and audio quality.
Tried but couldnt get inside the freezer with my torch.
Nice solid work bench
Have you ever had to replace switch. Our model replacement switch was discontinued. What did you use?
Matt . I need to replace my bearings also, but I have a more difficult problem. The pivot bracket is so worn that it will only raise the blade 1". The bracket comes off easily enough but I can't find a replacement. Do you have any ideas? Thanks for all you do.
James Aitken I haven't had to replace the switch on my table saw. I have had switches stop working. In the case of the rocker switches, like on this table saw, taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts will get it working again.
Keep up the great work~
Great video Matthew. I have the same saw. So now I know exactly what to do. Thanks.
Ted Alexander If you ever have to? or do you need to?
If I ever need to. Just looked, its a 4512. Lots of our friends are using them.
Great, Matt!
i have the ridgid r4512. Do you know how different the set up in my saw is from this saw by any chance? and do you know where i could purchase the bearings made for my saw as well?
I know it is a old post... but thank you very much!!! I have the exact saw and bought the bearings and just finished putting them in. After putting the top back on I didn’t even have to make any adjustments. Got lucky on that one.
One thing I did a little different was after I pressed the bearing into the back I put the arbor back in and used the nut on the end to assist with seating the arbor bearing on the right. Keep up the good work.
I am actually going to sell my r4511 to upgrade to the grizzly g1023rlw very soon. It will be easier to sell the r4511 now that it actually works great again.
Awesome!
I see you just did this a month ago. I just tried ordering bearings from Ridgid and was told they are no longer available (Although I think the girl on the line was clueless). Where did you get the parts? Do you have part numbers?
@@chrissimonton9939 The bearings are size 6004. The stock ones are 6004 zz which have the metal dust shields. If you want to switch to rubber seals to keep dust out 6004 2rs.
Rev. DamnAggie Rev. DamnAggie I ordered mine from grainger and picked up locally. Told them 6004 and they looked up their part. Hope this helps.
Laura & Bob Martin - thanks. Once I realized it was a 6004-ZZ bearing it was easy to find and I ordered online. Ridgid has stopped selling it so all the parts houses were telling me it was discontinued.
Awesome video Matt. Excellent explanation as usual. I have the same saw. Mine is a recall unit. Been a few years since the recall, but the guy came out to the house and changed out the parts. I don't think I'll need bearings for a while, but your video is a keeper.
Brian Igielski Thank you Brian! I checked my saw for the recall while at the store getting it. Nice to hear you didn't have to bring it into a service center.
I have the same saw , did you buy the bearings local or from ridgid ? Thanks for the video it will come in handie should I need to replace mine .
Jerry Sateriale I got them from eReplacementParts.com Here's the part for reference: www.ereplacementparts.com/ball-bearing-6004-p-571151.html?osCsid=m2k5uo96a33rm15bf2eco24ur4
Good info, how did you know the bearing was out?
Mike Fulton Thank Mike. Mostly noise but I could also visually see the seal on one was damaged. The saw also didn't cut as well as it used to. It lacked power.
Good video mate
donal ahern Thank you!
Nice job Matthew. Doesn't look like your saw is really old enough to need new bearings, maybe a bad set from the factory. I recently changed out the head on my jointer for a Shelix and bought a puller from Harbor Freight... worked good enough for my needs.
John Conklin They must have been a bad set. They went out after about 4 years. Maybe I just use my saw too much? haha! I've been meaning to pick up a puller from HF but decided to (finally) change these out one night on a whim. I'll pick one up next time I'm there. Would be a handy tool to have around.
Didn't know you had mechanics tools Matt? I have a small block engine I need rebuilt, can you guide me through the process? Haha. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. I'm sure many will appreciate the info. Your table saw will run soooo sweet now!
MRrwmac haha! maybe someday. The closest I've gotten to that was rebuilding a chainsaw engine. Thanks as always! :)
Interesting how much changed from the 3650, besides being a hybrid instead of contractor. On the 3650 the pulley is held by a set screw and the bearing by a snap ring. I went in there thinking I was replacing bearings but actually had to replace the arbor. So my saw was down for a week waiting for the right part, that was fun. I managed to do it without taking it all apart but I ended up cutting a hand screw clamp in half and then screwing it back together inside the saw to press it all back in place. Apparently if you stick the arbor in the freezer for a while first you can get the first bearing on and and then get it back in and into the second bearing just by hand if you are quick enough but that was a handy tip I picked up after the fact, just like you :)
krtwood The potential for the saw being down for any length of time is why I had been putting off this job for so long. With my luck I would start the repair only for something to happen that prevents me from getting the saw back up and running. I've done that freezer trick when I replace the bearing in one of my chainsaws. I just figured I'd give room temp a try (laziness)
I have to 4512 model. I was just wondering if my bearings might need to be replaced. It makes a squealing noise at start up but goes away after a few seconds. Still cuts real good. Could it be the bearings or maybe a belt?
squealing is usually the belt. It could be from a misaligned pulley
Hey Matt! What were your symptoms that told you the bearings needed replacing? I have a 15 amp Dewalt contractors table saw and on start up it will occasionally trip the new 20 amp breaker. I think I have too much friction in the system. Also the first few seconds there appears to be some vibration in the blade and then it dampens out. What are your thoughts?
I have the same question. I was just given a really nice Steel City cabinet saw, my first cabinet saw, I’m in LOVE! I know the belt is deformed since it was sitting unused for years, so I've ordered a new belt. There is a noticeable vibration when I shut the saw off. It could be the belt, but I suspect the bearings. Although I'd have thought they'd be noisier at speed.
How does the key come off the arbor?
Hey Matthew. Great video. I have just been searching youtube in vain. Trying to find a video if my saw and how to fix it. I have just had my belt break. On inspection it looks like the pulley on the motor side of things has slid aling the shaft and in now out of alignment with the pulley driving the blade. I am not looking forward to trying to fix this. I am in not that technical and i best take many photos before and during disassembly 😂😂😂 i am not sure how i will access the pulley other that removing the motor. I am also not sure it i need to remive the table top or if i can even remove or shift the pulley. The shaft it is on has no nut keeping it in place. I need to figure out how and why its moved. Maybe it has sone type of locking bar but anyway just thiught id say thanks, your video isnt exactly what i need to do but its inspired my to try. 😂😂😂
I got into changing the arbor bearings in this same saw before to, I aslo had to spend a lot a time freeing up the trunnions. The granite top works great for my shop because its not heated and I don't have to worry about rust but other than that I haven't been all that happy with it, kind of a maintenance pig:(
Shop built Did the trunnions seize up or something? Luckily this is the only large issue I've had with the saw so far.
Yeah, but the problem was in the shaft from the hand wheel to the pinion and not in the actual trunnions. I've had a few other small problems with the saw as well.
Great fix Matt, lucky there are no spare parts left over when finished, I hate it when that happens, lol.
woodturningjohn Never a good problem... haha! Thanks, John!
Hey Matt, I have the same Ridgid granite table saw as you, R4511 I believe. I have had an issue that when changing the angle of the blade that it does not actually stop at 90 degrees, but when I get close (90.4 degrees according to my magnetic degree finder) I hear a loud "pop" and then it rotates freely again until I get back towards 90 degrees. Have you ever seen this issue or could you give me some guidance on this? Also, have you run into any issues with finding parts on this saw? Even ebay I come up completely empty.
Might check the stops. There's a hole in the top of the table to adjust that. The bearings were the only parts that I ever needed but those are just generic parts. Once you know the size, you can order those from anywhere. Is there a part you're looking for specifically?
Why did you remove out the arbor bearing? Is it because of a wobble blade?
Thgis is a good video. My saw may need new bearings... I think. I wish you would have demonstrated the performace of your saw with the old bearings then the new ones. Mine is not noisy, but the blade sort of viabrates under some conditions. Its strange.
I also would have liked Matt to explain his symptoms / reason for changing his bearings. Did you determine your issue? What did you do to resolve it?
Would you or anyone here happen to know the part number for a replacement motor? Preferably Baldor or Leeson
Where do you buy a replacement bearing, is their a code on the old bearing?
Cartridge bearings are designated by 3 measurements: Outter diameter, inner diameter, and thickness. (You'll see them labeled for sale with specs like 41x30x17, representing a 41mm diameter bearing with a 30mm opening that is 17mm thick.) Measure your old ones and search for those specs and you should find what you need!
Hello Matt great video, I have a similar granite top saw. May I ask what do you use on the top maintenance wise keeping it slick etc?
lionelhernandez34 Thanks! I just use paste wax on the top to keep it slick.
Hi matt. I used to work as a mechanic and had to replace wheel bearings all the time, it's a similar process, although we would use a hydraulic press to do it. Perhaps if you went to your local mechanic they would allow you to use their press to do this,might make life easier if you have to do it again and also would have less risk of damaging the new bearings.
Mark Chapnell I hope I don't have to do it again but who knows maybe on different machine. Good tip. I would actually have to plan the work a bit instead of just jumping into it one night like I did here. Thanks!
Lasse Langwadt Christensen Funny thing: after I posted this video John's video popped up as a recommended video. He's got some great tips in there. I liked how he used a threaded rod to pull the bearing into the trunnion.
Great video! Very helpful! Thanks!
I think it would be possible to use the threads on the arbor and a few spacers to pull it into the last bearing
Lasse Langwadt Christensen Yes that would work great. I didn't think of that... Great tip! Thanks!
When will we see the "Alignment" vid??
James Davis Sorry, looks like I never updated the description. here it is: ua-cam.com/video/xCRirIHOZGk/v-deo.html
Very informative. In the future when you upgrade your saw, done forget to make an outfeed table. The fuuuuuuuuuture.
+Nathan Duitch 👻
You know Matt I do have a hydraulic press at work, and who the hell already have you a thumbs down?? Seems like u have almost the same ts as me. This will become usefull
***** I'll have to keep that in mind in case I need anything pressed. maybe some dress pants but I think that's a different kind of press... :) Thanks Dema!
I have a craftsman table saw and my blade has a slight play in it. doesn't feel safe to use .after seeing this video I will be changing my bearings
How did you know the bearings were bad?
I've the same question.
Hi Matt. I need to replace my bearings also, but do you know where I can get a new set. They are discontinued at Rigid. Any help would be appreciated.
The size designation should be stamped on them. I believe they were 6004. amzn.to/2q0yGFi
Just a quick trick for getting the bearing on the shaft.
Heat it up in an oven (up to 110°C :) and it will slide on much more easily :)
mikkosha Thanks! I've actually used that trick when I replaced the bearings on one of my chainsaws. It was winter so I left the shaft outside (it was one of those -20 days) and put the bearings in the oven. They took almost no force to seat.
Very cool! Always satisfying to repair something like this! What do you mean 3.5 hours it was only less than 8 minutes? :)
Chris
Chris Pine hahaha! Maybe I'll start releasing full unedited videos. Anyone want to watch a 25 hour coffee table build? :)
cool had to do same thing on my lathe
Alan Rodriguez How difficult was that? Were the bearings easy to get to?
pretty much just had to remove the digital display, but it was pretty easy to replace,bang out one side,remove that bearing then placed the spindle between the jaws of my vise and bang off the other, then the new ones went on just as easy, works great now thanks for asking
Great video but sure hope I don't have to try it for awhile.
Jim Holladay Here's to hoping :) Thanks, Jim!
Well, you blew a good opportunity to upgrade your TS.....JK.....Thanks for sharing
effeinc I can't sneak it past my wife. She knows that I can fix things...
Gud video mat
And there's no better feeling than saying I done that ;)
darren brewster Finally crossed that one off my list. Time to get back to making stuff :)
that thing looks heavy. much heavier than the two-sawhorse-plywood-skillsaw-couple-of-screws-setup i use... tool-envy
Willem Kossen yeah, it's got some weight to it. Good thing I didn't have to move it very far...
That bearing was toast, I bet it runs a lot quieter now.
Rob C It was beyond toast! It runs much quieter now and sounds a lot better.
Great Video! little criticism it is Race, not Chase!
+Y Pop lol yeah I was having quite the brain fart that day
Well we all have bad days!
I always learned: Don't lubricate, keep the thread as dry as possible. Sawdust sticks to the lubricated thread and gets clogged inside the bold.
Dry lube is the key and most resist dust; even saw dust.
Stuby nubs, and I disagree. He's got an excellent video on lubricating a table saw. I was just gifted a Steel City cabinet saw, used grease on the gears. Works so.... much smoother. Did the same with my older Delta contractor saw, sawdust didn't cause any issues.
That’s I needed to see how that works before ruining everything by forcing the wrong order. I hate to sound like that guy cause I’m not, I’ve been a union Ironworker for a long time now and often have to get creative with bolts mechanical concrete anchors and footings. So Contrary to what seems work wise to the many , The nut as protection from beating a head of a bolt or stud by having it just above the top of the bolt is taking way more of a chance of seizing the nut than mushrooming the bolt. The bolt is more of an easy fix, the seized nut is not. The way to do it if you can’t rig up a softener is to run your nut down out of the way and if you happen to thrash your threads or mushroom it (within reason) removing your nut will clean up your threads for you on its way off like a thread chaser, just don’t try to power thru it , you need to spin into the damage , back off, spin in, back off. To let the savings out of the nut so not to seize it that way. Not optimal. but in a pinch it will get you to the next step. Hope that helped someone. I know I needed it a couple dozen times before when it was taught to me.
Chase? Don't you mean the bearings inner RACE?
You're only supposed to hammer the outer race when installing the bearings. Hammering the inner race is likely to damage them.
Ahhh, that makes sense. Thanks for the correction / clarification.
I disagree. Hammering the outer race will transfer the force through the ball bearings to the inner race where the insertion friction resides. This exactly what you DON'T want. Hitting the inner race simply puts the insertion force on the surface with the friction, no force will be transferred through the ball bearings.