We are working again on Herman. This time we sort out everything we checked in the last episode which was faulty with the rear brakes; the wheel cylinders and shoes. Is this something you'd confidently do on your own?
informative and helpful. Will still take it to my local garage. Reinforces there are some tools needed for this, and secure support of the motorhome while working on the brakes. Good to have a good sensible mechanic.
Hi Alastair, we've gone off of our garage. They should have noticed the front shock and the brakes (even passed their MOT). It might cost a bit at first for the jack, stands and other tools but doing these things yourself you know they've been done by your own standards. You also get a great satisfaction too
Oh Kieran, don't. It'll all go to head and he'll have to carry it around in a wheelbarrow 👍😀. Seriously though, you're right. Now you've watched the video do you think you could do your own maintenance or maybe you already do?
Watching this before tackling my MH. Must say, Chas know his bits and I always think that you MUST listen to what an expert like him says as they have learnt the hard way, the route you want to avoid.
@@HermanHitstheRoad I have an '06 Moncayo, a Spanish build. Parked up with handbrake on for ages and it seized on one wheel. Free now but I need to check drum shoes wear and cables before MOT.
@@HermanHitstheRoad we did the job but turned out to be different firstly disc with drum brakes inside the disk , same has mine but we even then got the wrong diameter shoes 😂 so all put back together to go at it again Tuesday morning, but it’s all part of enjoying owning a 20 year hymer
Thanks for this series. I've to do basically everything you did; replace a front shock that is leaking and front pads and rear shoes. Your videos are a good complement together with the Russek manual. ;) Happy travels.
@@HermanHitstheRoad Peter Russek publishes pocket workshop manuals. They're not as good as Haynes manuals but at least it exists for the Ducato/boxer/jumper.
Hi chase great video on how to change rear break shos many thanks for that. Very nice to see you have more axle stands and a jack not just relying on a couple of cheep axle stands when you change the drive couplelings which I Very strongly condemned also I see you had plates under the axle stands very good brilliant thanks .I normally put the wheel under as well with a couple of blocks on the top all in the interest of safety. I noticed that you were struggling nearing down I use a 6×4 horse mat they are about 2 inches thick brilliant if you can get a used one from some where you will see a major difference even if the ground is a bit wet they are very good to lye or neal on .hope this has been of some help to you and others many thanks 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊 willemog.
@Herman Hits the Road one side was a pig but loosened the handbrake cable and new shoes fitted and brakes bled the fluid that came out was black they're much better thanks for the video really helped
Great video. Only wish I had the jacks, parts and tools to attempt..I Imagine I probably wouldn't have the hand wrist power..so sadly I will have to pay for mine to be done. Really helpful to see how its done though ..thanks
Great video and series. Just a note not a criticism and maybe you did this if camera but before adjusting the shoes it’s good practice to fit the drum back over and press the brakes this centralisers the shoes before you adjust them up. Anyway keep the videos coming and good luck hope you don’t mind the advice Neil
Herman Hits the Road no your correct it will adjust but most of the time the adjusters don’t work great but yours looked in good working order to be fair 👍
Another great video thanks. Need to do the rear shoes on mine this weekend. Did you lube any of the selfadjuster mech or threads? And did you use any copper grease between shoe ends and piston faces? Good to see the point re: hub to drum alignment in the outtakes :-) Thanks again to both of you for putting all the effort in to these great videos.
I didn't lube the self adjuster. I put copper grease on the edge of the shoes where they contact the back plate but not the ends. I hope this helps, @mobilvettamotorhome2056 ?
Yep - one side done and I did the same so far. Having a nightmare getting the second drum off. Do you recall the thread for the three bolt self extractors in the drum? Tried M10 coach bolt but it feels wrong. Might be they’ve been abused in the past but it would be good to know correct spec if possible. Thumbs up too to Coastal Motorhomes - great phone and delivery service and I used your Herman discount code on the parts :-)
FWIW - I found a post on the Fiat forum stating the drum self extractor threads are 10mm x 1.25mm pitch. Will get some good cap head bolts and try them.
Today, we've been doing the front brake calipers & pads and that should be it for all the major things we wanted to do. We only wanted to do the front suspension! We have a few ideas for other videos in the future. Let us know if you have an ideas. Zoe is well, thank you. Do you think you'll be coming to HermanFest this year (June)
@@HermanHitstheRoad HI Ads, yes, wel should be at HermanFest. We are going to Germany at some point in the summer but will try our hardest to work round HermanFest. Look forward to next week's vid. Come and do mine when you've done yours!
Hi again, great video. I’m now in Croatia and after inspecting the lining on one of my brakes on the double rear axle came off. Will need to replace the shoes on that wheel, and will do the opposite as well. Does this mean I will have to do the shoes on the other rear axle as well?
You should always replace brake shoes (or pads or discs) in axle pairs, @mjgdevos. Meaning that the brakes on the other axle shouldn't need replacing. I hope this helps
Great video, does herman have a load sensing valve ? Im thinking if its adjusted incorrectly it will mess with the rear brake operation however well you set them up. What do you think?
1:47 I managed to get both brakes back together now (after having to flare and bend a brake line) Job done but then I noticed the spring that goes from the adjuster is installed differently between each wheel. First off.. my model is the one before yours and so the adjuster is not the same. I have FT32423 and you may have FT32420 but to be honest FT32420 does not really look like yours. My "before" photo shows the spring entering on the back of the adjuster arm and the back of the shoe. The other side I installed like yours, with spring entering the arm from the front and entering the drum from the back. I don't have a "before" photo for this side. Now I must decide if I take it apart to match the "before" photo of the other side. Or.. perhaps it is meant to be this way? ( Too bad I took only one side "before" photo. I advise others to not be like me and to instead take a photo of each side "before". ) Well I've just put the other drum on now and said the heck with it. Good enough.
@@HermanHitstheRoad New line. Actually there was a lineage of 3 lines. Mind you I'm in Hungary and cannot speak Hungarian, nor is my girlfriend all that great at translating. The first line didn't have the correct flare. Couldn't get it on & good thing I couldn't -- probably would have leaked. The next line had the right flare (the DIN aka bubble flare), but I had to bend it myself. Used a 26mm lug on a vice to bend around. Turned out OK. Then I realized copper isn't really maybe the safest & so I ordered a copper nickel line with flares pre-made from augustin in germany. I haven't tried to bend it yet, the copper line is on the car and seems to be doing the job for now. So then I put it all back together & got the drums just perfect & then it was time to bleed the brakes. Figured out how to bleed one. I tell my gf to pump it slow. Then her dad comes along and tells her to pump it really fast. I didn't really think fast enough and before you knew it suddenly all this air was coming through. So the master cylinder went dry. Any times on getting out of this pickle? I've watched some vids that say I can bleed the master by loosening all the lines to the master, then pushing the brake down & holding it there, then tightening the lines, and then releasing the brake. Then repeat that 5 times. I'm going to give that a try tomorrow.
Your need to get the fluid through the pipes and remove all air. Pumping fast and not locking the nipple off in-between pumps (when foot is down) means that air can get back into the line at the nipple when the foot pedal is raised. Make sure the master cylinder does go dry and start with bleeding the brake furthest from the cylinder, then the next furthest etc. There are some bleeding kits which require only one person. Good luck 👍👍
@@HermanHitstheRoad Thank you for writing back! I feel like I've really gotten myself into a corner. Did you mean to make sure the master cylinder does NOT go dry? Everything I read warns me against this. However... I accidentally let the master go dry. So... now what? That's what I'm trying to figure. Was going to maybe try something like this to bleed the master. ua-cam.com/video/Uz4OwuUGVOA/v-deo.html. He tries to push the air out from the master by loosening / tightening all the lines exiting the master.
@@HermanHitstheRoad . Yes I replaced the rear discs and pads. Mine also has rear handbrake shoes which were a bit worn so I did the whole lot. I've watched most of your videos and they are simple to follow, really well done and fun to watch. Thank you for spending the time to help people.
After the brake shoes parted company with back plate and knackered it, I have removed the back plate etc and ordered a new back plate and brake set complete from Coastal Motorhomes, the back plate not available from Fiat dealer in the UK. I have a problem in understanding how the handbrake cable removes itself !! from the back plate, the nipple will not fit through the back plate aperture and I conclude that I will have to unsolder the nipple, and resolder once removed, seems unusual, anything I am missing, the Kon Tiki is year 2000 a Ducato on Alko chassis, Bill
Hi Bill, that sounds weird that it doesn't fit through the back plate. So you are trying to fit the old cable through the new back plate? Can you compare the old with the new back plates? Maybe Coastal sent you the wrong ones. Could it be a mismatch of cable and back plate I wonder? I certainly wouldn't remove the nipple to replace the other side. I'll ask Chas to see what he thinks.
I absolutely hate pulling you up on things, honestly I do! But as a mechanic I would first start off with slackening off the hand brake cable, then after removing the wheels I would turn the drum and look through one of the wheel stud holes or if there was another hole to find the auto adjuster and release the adjuster, every thing was OK to some respects except there was no lubrication to the auto adjuster threads! On refitting the drums and adjusting the shoes to drum clearance this was done incorrectly! One should wind the adjuster until the drum does not turn! Then click it back one click at a time so the drum rotates freely! After all of this and the brakes have been bled successfully! The hand brake cable should be adjusted! Pull hand brake up to six clicks. Hold it there, go under vehicle to where the hand brake yoke is and torque to the specific torque in the manual, then lock up the lock nut!
I'm in the midst of this job - trying to decide which cylinder size to buy. I've got the same old cylinder on mine as you did (marked Lucas 643). Do you know the bore size of the cylinder you all fitted? choices are 25.4mm 27mm and 28.6mm. any idea? thank you.
Ours might be different to yours, Matthew. I don't have the receipt any more. We took ours to a car parts place and measured it up. There should also be a number cast on the side of the cylinder which should help.
@@HermanHitstheRoad OK.. pulled back the dust cover, girlfriend pushed in the brake hard & out came the piston. 28.6mm is the answer. Thank you Mr. Herman owner.. from a Bob (the Eura Mobil) owner... This is on a 1996 ducato 2.5 tdi
I can't find your post with the video in it but I did watch it. I don't understand what he is doing there. He has only replaced the master cylinder but you will have air in all your brake lines now especially at the rear were you've replace the lines. You need to bleed all the brakes starting at the furthest from the master cylinder while constantly topping up the fluid.
@@HermanHitstheRoad Back wheels are done now I think. Also a new parking brake cable. If you ever need to fit one of those be sure to measure the length of your old one and have a look at the very end of the cable that fits into the drum. If yours is like mine with the indented ring at the end, then be careful to save the retaining ring when you take it out. if it's disintegrated like mine, then epoxying them in place did the trick. Then again, you have a mechanic as a friend so you'll do a better job than that. Also a new oil pan is in. I think I'm really starting to appreciate mechanics!
@@HermanHitstheRoad just put oil in and started her up. Yes I suppose it's ready. Mine blows a steady stream of grey blue smoke. Not a hideous amount, but enough that you notice. How about yours?
What size spanner needed to remove the rear fluid input connector? I not sure if I have one? It has to be open ended as the brake pipe prevents using a ring? thanks.
We are working again on Herman. This time we sort out everything we checked in the last episode which was faulty with the rear brakes; the wheel cylinders and shoes. Is this something you'd confidently do on your own?
Yes I saw that later in the video that’s why I removed the comment
Excellent video, that mechanic is a legend !
Thanks @anthonynagle 👍👍
Another great video on essential maintenance. What a great mechanic is Chas proper old school . Lucky to find someone like him.
You're not wrong, James. We'll be doing some more maintenance today - watch this space. Do you do any work on your own vehicles?
@@HermanHitstheRoad Have done on cars in past . All cars and motorhome fairly new so don't do diy maintenance now prefer to leave to people like Chas.
informative and helpful. Will still take it to my local garage. Reinforces there are some tools needed for this, and secure support of the motorhome while working on the brakes. Good to have a good sensible mechanic.
Hi Alastair, we've gone off of our garage. They should have noticed the front shock and the brakes (even passed their MOT). It might cost a bit at first for the jack, stands and other tools but doing these things yourself you know they've been done by your own standards. You also get a great satisfaction too
Very useful video, informative and each stage well explained, Chas is the no nonsense type of mechanic that we all would love to have available to us
Oh Kieran, don't. It'll all go to head and he'll have to carry it around in a wheelbarrow 👍😀. Seriously though, you're right. Now you've watched the video do you think you could do your own maintenance or maybe you already do?
@@HermanHitstheRoad I do a lot of the work routine servicing but I wouldn't tackle wheel bearing or suspension,although it great to see the process👍
Fantastic, thank you for taking the time to post this up. Just done the rear cylinders on my Ducato MH and this video made it an easy job.
Glad it helped, Peter. That's the reason why we do them 👍👍👍
Watching this before tackling my MH. Must say, Chas know his bits and I always think that you MUST listen to what an expert like him says as they have learnt the hard way, the route you want to avoid.
He'll enjoy reading that, Billy. Thanks for your comment. What have you got to do on your MH and what do you have?
@@HermanHitstheRoad I have an '06 Moncayo, a Spanish build. Parked up with handbrake on for ages and it seized on one wheel. Free now but I need to check drum shoes wear and cables before MOT.
Good luck with that. Let us know how you get on.
great video thankyou ,and i dont have a fiat chassis but my mate does and we,ll be doing his brakes this week
Good luck, Drexel. Let me know how you get on
@@HermanHitstheRoad we did the job but turned out to be different firstly disc with drum brakes inside the disk , same has mine but we even then got the wrong diameter shoes 😂 so all put back together to go at it again Tuesday morning, but it’s all part of enjoying owning a 20 year hymer
Definitely 👍 👍
Thanks for this series. I've to do basically everything you did; replace a front shock that is leaking and front pads and rear shoes. Your videos are a good complement together with the Russek manual. ;) Happy travels.
Thanks SkyOnRoad. This means a lot. What's this Russek manual you speak of?
@@HermanHitstheRoad Peter Russek publishes pocket workshop manuals. They're not as good as Haynes manuals but at least it exists for the Ducato/boxer/jumper.
just done another mates rear brakes that were exactly same has Hermans so again thanks for the video
No problem. I glad the videos help
Thank you guys, thanks to you, I hope I would manage to do it myself.
Good luck, @haner91. Let me know how you get on
Hi chase great video on how to change rear break shos many thanks for that. Very nice to see you have more axle stands and a jack not just relying on a couple of cheep axle stands when you change the drive couplelings which I Very strongly condemned also I see you had plates under the axle stands very good brilliant thanks .I normally put the wheel under as well with a couple of blocks on the top all in the interest of safety. I noticed that you were struggling nearing down I use a 6×4 horse mat they are about 2 inches thick brilliant if you can get a used one from some where you will see a major difference even if the ground is a bit wet they are very good to lye or neal on .hope this has been of some help to you and others many thanks 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊 willemog.
Thanks Willis. Yes, Chas has various mats and I use knee pads for extra protection 👍👍
Hi ,Super video please keep them coming as they are always top notch Thank you both .
That's very kind of you, Louie. We've just been filming another one today. Tired now.
Great video I,m doing my rear brakes on my peugeot diesel campervan today wish me luck
Good luck, Gordon! How did you get on with your brakes?
@Herman Hits the Road one side was a pig but loosened the handbrake cable and new shoes fitted and brakes bled the fluid that came out was black they're much better thanks for the video really helped
That's great news, Gordon 👍👍
Great video .gonna have a lot more peaceful mind when your on your spring /summer road trips .
I know Mark and I can't wait to get back in Herman for some touring. Do you have any road trips or maintenance planned for this year?
Great video. Only wish I had the jacks, parts and tools to attempt..I Imagine I probably wouldn't have the hand wrist power..so sadly I will have to pay for mine to be done. Really helpful to see how its done though ..thanks
Thanks Julie and I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Car mechanics isn't difficult to understand it's the tools and strength that you need.
Great video and series. Just a note not a criticism and maybe you did this if camera but before adjusting the shoes it’s good practice to fit the drum back over and press the brakes this centralisers the shoes before you adjust them up. Anyway keep the videos coming and good luck hope you don’t mind the advice
Neil
Thanks for the advice, Neil. The brakes are self adjusting so I'm not sure it matters.
Herman Hits the Road no your correct it will adjust but most of the time the adjusters don’t work great but yours looked in good working order to be fair 👍
Oh, that's because I also brought the brake kit too. I got what you're saying 👍
Thanks
Thank you very much, @mobilvettamotorhome2056. I really appreciate that 👍👍👍👍
Really informative video , enjoyed watching 👍
Thanks Travel Time. Do you think you'll be doing some of your own maintenance on your vehicles?
@@HermanHitstheRoad yes I will ,I do the oil changes at the minute 👍
Great stuff lads
Thanks @dragonrose6920 👍👍
Another great video thanks. Need to do the rear shoes on mine this weekend. Did you lube any of the selfadjuster mech or threads? And did you use any copper grease between shoe ends and piston faces? Good to see the point re: hub to drum alignment in the outtakes :-) Thanks again to both of you for putting all the effort in to these great videos.
I didn't lube the self adjuster. I put copper grease on the edge of the shoes where they contact the back plate but not the ends. I hope this helps, @mobilvettamotorhome2056 ?
Yep - one side done and I did the same so far. Having a nightmare getting the second drum off. Do you recall the thread for the three bolt self extractors in the drum? Tried M10 coach bolt but it feels wrong. Might be they’ve been abused in the past but it would be good to know correct spec if possible. Thumbs up too to Coastal Motorhomes - great phone and delivery service and I used your Herman discount code on the parts :-)
FWIW - I found a post on the Fiat forum stating the drum self extractor threads are 10mm x 1.25mm pitch. Will get some good cap head bolts and try them.
Another informative vid Ads. Anymore coming? Really enjoyed this series.. Hope Zoe's well....
Today, we've been doing the front brake calipers & pads and that should be it for all the major things we wanted to do. We only wanted to do the front suspension! We have a few ideas for other videos in the future. Let us know if you have an ideas.
Zoe is well, thank you. Do you think you'll be coming to HermanFest this year (June)
@@HermanHitstheRoad HI Ads, yes, wel should be at HermanFest. We are going to Germany at some point in the summer but will try our hardest to work round HermanFest. Look forward to next week's vid. Come and do mine when you've done yours!
Oh, that's great news. Don't forget to fill in the HermanFest survey. 👍👍.
Very helpful thank you
Glad you found the video useful, Luke 👍👍
Now you know how to work on the brakes there'll be no stopping you! 👍
Hi Alex thanks for the coment on the video.
Been a fan of your channel from the start
Chas 👍
@@charlessmillie8774 Thanks, very kind of you to say so 👍
Thanks Alex, it took me a moment.👍👍😀
A pipe that’s hollow! I’ve learnt something today
LOL, when do we say that?
Herman Hits the Road 5.45 lol. I’m only Messing I know you said it just to reiterate the fact they will damage easy.
Nice vid. Does Chas have a channel of his own ?
No, he doesn't, Lancashire Mudlarks.
Hi again, great video. I’m now in Croatia and after inspecting the lining on one of my brakes on the double rear axle came off. Will need to replace the shoes on that wheel, and will do the opposite as well. Does this mean I will have to do the shoes on the other rear axle as well?
You should always replace brake shoes (or pads or discs) in axle pairs, @mjgdevos. Meaning that the brakes on the other axle shouldn't need replacing. I hope this helps
Great video, does herman have a load sensing valve ? Im thinking if its adjusted incorrectly it will mess with the rear brake operation however well you set them up. What do you think?
Great idea, Colin but I think it's OK. We don't seem to any problems with the rear brakes or the lead sensor. Thanks 👍
Only criticism, change your greasy gloves before fitting the shoes to prevent contamination.
Good advice, @robl5833
1:47 I managed to get both brakes back together now (after having to flare and bend a brake line) Job done but then I noticed the spring that goes from the adjuster is installed differently between each wheel.
First off.. my model is the one before yours and so the adjuster is not the same. I have FT32423 and you may have FT32420 but to be honest FT32420 does not really look like yours.
My "before" photo shows the spring entering on the back of the adjuster arm and the back of the shoe.
The other side I installed like yours, with spring entering the arm from the front and entering the drum from the back. I don't have a "before" photo for this side.
Now I must decide if I take it apart to match the "before" photo of the other side. Or.. perhaps it is meant to be this way?
( Too bad I took only one side "before" photo. I advise others to not be like me and to instead take a photo of each side "before". )
Well I've just put the other drum on now and said the heck with it. Good enough.
Great stuff, Matthew 👍
Did you need a new brake line or did you manage to reshape it to stretch long enough?
@@HermanHitstheRoad New line. Actually there was a lineage of 3 lines. Mind you I'm in Hungary and cannot speak Hungarian, nor is my girlfriend all that great at translating. The first line didn't have the correct flare. Couldn't get it on & good thing I couldn't -- probably would have leaked. The next line had the right flare (the DIN aka bubble flare), but I had to bend it myself. Used a 26mm lug on a vice to bend around. Turned out OK. Then I realized copper isn't really maybe the safest & so I ordered a copper nickel line with flares pre-made from augustin in germany. I haven't tried to bend it yet, the copper line is on the car and seems to be doing the job for now.
So then I put it all back together & got the drums just perfect & then it was time to bleed the brakes.
Figured out how to bleed one. I tell my gf to pump it slow. Then her dad comes along and tells her to pump it really fast. I didn't really think fast enough and before you knew it suddenly all this air was coming through.
So the master cylinder went dry.
Any times on getting out of this pickle?
I've watched some vids that say I can bleed the master by loosening all the lines to the master, then pushing the brake down & holding it there, then tightening the lines, and then releasing the brake. Then repeat that 5 times.
I'm going to give that a try tomorrow.
Your need to get the fluid through the pipes and remove all air. Pumping fast and not locking the nipple off in-between pumps (when foot is down) means that air can get back into the line at the nipple when the foot pedal is raised. Make sure the master cylinder does go dry and start with bleeding the brake furthest from the cylinder, then the next furthest etc. There are some bleeding kits which require only one person.
Good luck 👍👍
@@HermanHitstheRoad Thank you for writing back! I feel like I've really gotten myself into a corner.
Did you mean to make sure the master cylinder does NOT go dry? Everything I read warns me against this.
However... I accidentally let the master go dry.
So... now what? That's what I'm trying to figure.
Was going to maybe try something like this to bleed the master. ua-cam.com/video/Uz4OwuUGVOA/v-deo.html. He tries to push the air out from the master by loosening / tightening all the lines exiting the master.
The brake fluid nut is 11mm. watched other vids saying they are 12mm, but the flare tool I purchased has 10 & 12 & the nut seems in between.
Do you mean the brake bleed nipple? It's not 11mm. Nor 10mm or 11mm fit
@@HermanHitstheRoad I mean the spot where the brake line goes in. What tool is required to loosen and tighten? I'm at the shop just now.
It's called a 10mm thermal couple spanner
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermocouple-Spanner-Split-Ring-Type-8-And-9-And-10-And-11mm-Flare-Nut-/302991052336?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
@@HermanHitstheRoad looked at images on UK sites and yes that is the tool I have in my hand. 12mm spun freely and 10 too small to get around it.
Great video. Thank you.
Cheers Burnie. Do you need to do the brakes on your moho?
@@HermanHitstheRoad . Yes I replaced the rear discs and pads. Mine also has rear handbrake shoes which were a bit worn so I did the whole lot. I've watched most of your videos and they are simple to follow, really well done and fun to watch. Thank you for spending the time to help people.
Thanks Burnie. I'm glad you found them useful
Did you take a brake when filming. Zoe the tea maid on call?
You've spelt brea... Oh no! I see what you did there 🙄👍
After the brake shoes parted company with back plate and knackered it, I have removed the back plate etc and ordered a new back plate and brake set complete from Coastal Motorhomes, the back plate not available from Fiat dealer in the UK. I have a problem in understanding how the handbrake cable removes itself !! from the back plate, the nipple will not fit through the back plate aperture and I conclude that I will have to unsolder the nipple, and resolder once removed, seems unusual, anything I am missing, the Kon Tiki is year 2000 a Ducato on Alko chassis, Bill
Hi Bill, that sounds weird that it doesn't fit through the back plate. So you are trying to fit the old cable through the new back plate? Can you compare the old with the new back plates? Maybe Coastal sent you the wrong ones. Could it be a mismatch of cable and back plate I wonder? I certainly wouldn't remove the nipple to replace the other side. I'll ask Chas to see what he thinks.
Hi Bill so what you are saying is that you can't get the old back plate off?
Or that the new back plate doesn't fit the old cable?
Also some of the back plates have a plastic removable retaining clip on the end of the cable easily missed.
Can you send ad's a photo?
@@HermanHitstheRoad cant get the cable out of the old back plate, nipple wiull not fit through the hole
@@charlessmillie8774 back plate is off, the cable nipple will not fit through the hole to remove it
I absolutely hate pulling you up on things, honestly I do!
But as a mechanic I would first start off with slackening off the hand brake cable, then after removing the wheels I would turn the drum and look through one of the wheel stud holes or if there was another hole to find the auto adjuster and release the adjuster, every thing was OK to some respects except there was no lubrication to the auto adjuster threads!
On refitting the drums and adjusting the shoes to drum clearance this was done incorrectly!
One should wind the adjuster until the drum does not turn!
Then click it back one click at a time so the drum rotates freely!
After all of this and the brakes have been bled successfully!
The hand brake cable should be adjusted!
Pull hand brake up to six clicks. Hold it there, go under vehicle to where the hand brake yoke is and torque to the specific torque in the manual, then lock up the lock nut!
Thanks for the advice, Mike Lane
Is there self adusting on both side s
Yes, there is, @johndelaneydelaney1498
you tell the mechanic that when reassembling the brake hoses, he put the horseshoes inverted there !!!! and the disc is cleaned before that
Thanks for commenting, @michalf7717
I'm in the midst of this job - trying to decide which cylinder size to buy. I've got the same old cylinder on mine as you did (marked Lucas 643). Do you know the bore size of the cylinder you all fitted? choices are 25.4mm 27mm and 28.6mm. any idea? thank you.
Ours might be different to yours, Matthew. I don't have the receipt any more. We took ours to a car parts place and measured it up. There should also be a number cast on the side of the cylinder which should help.
@@HermanHitstheRoad OK.. pulled back the dust cover, girlfriend pushed in the brake hard & out came the piston. 28.6mm is the answer. Thank you Mr. Herman owner.. from a Bob (the Eura Mobil) owner... This is on a 1996 ducato 2.5 tdi
You're welcome, Matthew but I'm not sure i helped much.
@@HermanHitstheRoad your vids are definitely a help. The leaf spring vid is giving me some ideas.
Glad we could help 👍👍
24:38 Magic happens here. I can't seem to get my drum back on. Adjuster near its minimum setting. Hmm...
I can't find your post with the video in it but I did watch it. I don't understand what he is doing there. He has only replaced the master cylinder but you will have air in all your brake lines now especially at the rear were you've replace the lines. You need to bleed all the brakes starting at the furthest from the master cylinder while constantly topping up the fluid.
@@HermanHitstheRoad Back wheels are done now I think. Also a new parking brake cable. If you ever need to fit one of those be sure to measure the length of your old one and have a look at the very end of the cable that fits into the drum. If yours is like mine with the indented ring at the end, then be careful to save the retaining ring when you take it out. if it's disintegrated like mine, then epoxying them in place did the trick. Then again, you have a mechanic as a friend so you'll do a better job than that. Also a new oil pan is in. I think I'm really starting to appreciate mechanics!
Wow. Sounds like you have had lots to do. Is it ready for camping yet?
@@HermanHitstheRoad just put oil in and started her up. Yes I suppose it's ready. Mine blows a steady stream of grey blue smoke. Not a hideous amount, but enough that you notice. How about yours?
I think blue smoke is an indicator of burning oil.
What size spanner needed to remove the rear fluid input connector? I not sure if I have one? It has to be open ended as the brake pipe prevents using a ring? thanks.
I think it was a 10mm or 11mm spanner, @onlylexus. I'm going replace the brake lines soon so I'll tell you in that video