Hey Skall, my experience of Hanwei swords is that they all end up with loose rattling hilts - this seems to be due to two main reasons; 1) their threads are quite thin and the nuts (or pommels in this case) always seem to work loose, but most importantly 2) they use grip wood which is too soft. The wood of the grip compresses and leaves space at both ends. The blades are generally good though, so with some modification they can be made better. If you want a little project then drill a hole right through the pommel, insert the tang right through and peen it at the end. Then make a new grip of hardwood such as ash or birch and glue it on in two halves, then wrap as shown in the Albion construction video. I've actually considered buying one of these just for the blade, stripping the hilt off and making my own. But these days you're better off just going straight to someone like Peter Regenyei for a zweihander.
scholagladiatoria Yes, poor choice of wood for the handle is a pretty common problem, not just with Hanwei swords. As a project sword this would probably be pretty good. Make a new grip, glue or even weld the guard onto the blade / tang, peen the pommel, sharpen the blade... If only I had some work space. But apartments kind of suck for crafting purposes. :)
scholagladiatoria i think it was one of your videos which pointed out the tang forming the celtic cross style pommel . something this large is going to put a massive strain on the entire handle assembly when you hit something .a combo of cutting corners and adding even more mass really isn't going to help the end product.
***** Sorry man :( everybody should have a shed to feck about in . i mean do really important work furthering humanity and transcending the mere material plane ext . ;)
***** Sounds like the tang is rattling inside the grip to me. All wood expands with moisture, contracts with dryness and I'm guessing the atmosphere in Canada over winter is pretty dry compared to where the sword was manufactured. When wood with a hole up the middle shrinks as it dries you'd think it would get tighter on the tang but in fact the hole actually gets bigger. Hence the loosening. You could try wrapping the tang with something to fill the gap. It probably wouldn't take much and you'd want something that would compress if you get a damp summer and the wood swells up again. So I'd try some PTFE plumbing tape. If you glue the grip onto the tang it will most like split if the wood swells.
***** Well another option it to essentially expand the grip length with washers at top and bottom (leather works). Then screw the pommel down as tight as possible. I'm lucky enough to have lots of space to work in, but no time to do it! This should be a relatively easy fix though and the blade itself is probably good.
The thing that I love about the Hanwei Lowlander is it's size. To me, THAT'S the proper size of a greatsword, of which I go into further detail in: ua-cam.com/video/FWWpzXOuk_s/v-deo.html
One of these days, (Halloween perhaps)you should label it like it's a real review,and come out with a black robe an a wheat threshing scythe & review that.
The same thing happened very quickly to my Hanwei Claymore. It doesn't rattle when handling it, but when I hit it the same way you did at 6:54 it makes the same sound.
As an owner of exactly 0 swords I still really enjoy your reviews as I have for the last couple of years! Keep up the great work and congrats and the 300k milestone!
Add Pressure Point, Virulent Scourge, True Steel, Focus Energy, Jagged Edge, Rending Strike, Fury and Berserker and you have a really good grineer killer!
You don't know the bleed build do you? The one that bypasses all armor? Pressure Point, Fury, Berserker, Blood Rush, Drifting Contact, Weeping Wounds, Reach and Organ Shatter. Alternatively you could swap out Fury with True Steel, but it's more fun when you're spinning around so fast.
Thank you for laying this one to rest for me. Another excellent review, you scrutinize everything to death... it's very appreciated... I will stick with my Odachi for my big blade fix. It's just shy of 6 feet, and I hand polish my blades, so they go through all tatami and jugs like butter... Always wanted this sword though, having held it once upon a time... But the quality seems lacking, and the lack of information on it disturbs me... Again, great vid, and thanks much for your honesty!!
Looks easily repairable to me in it's current condition and screw pommels last longer than you'd think if they are well made. I'd be VERY happy with that sword for the price.
the handle is probably not burned on the tang, so the hole in the wooden handle is slightly larger than the tang itself, which probably causes the rattling!!
I've owned one of these as well, though I ended up selling it a few years back, and I generally agree with your impressions. What I did was pack the space inside the grip with spray-foam insulation (called Great Stuff here in the US, I'm not sure about availability elsewhere). If one was more concerned with period accuracy, leather scraps or something similar might work just as well. That definitely helped the rattle, though I did still flex under high impact cuts. On a technique note, I haven't actually found attestation for this anywhere, but I've fought with greatweapons in a variety of recreationist groups, and found that sliding the forward hand, like you would with an axe or polearm, really helps get the most out of a sword with a grip long enough to get in the way, like this one.
Skall, Perhaps the issue with the tatami cutting is there wasn't enough velocity to constitute the cut. Velocity is mass x acceleration. With this large sword, there is a considerable increase in mass in comparison to your messer, but the mass makes it harder for the operator to accelerate the sword to the same effect as a less hefty sword. So even though your messer doesnt have as much mass or weight or general heft as the Lowlander, you can accelerate it at a much faster rate creating a higher velocity which assists in the cut. I would argue that cutting with this blade in the same manner as cutting with a long sword wont deliver the same effect when contacting thick targets like tatami. If memory serves me right, don't many manuscripts about great swords encourage a whirling type motion to build up momentum? Perhaps this is what delivers the insane cutting power people mentally associate with a large sword. Im no expert on physics or HEMA, but I thought I'd drop my two cents in about this blade and its performance.
Hey Skallagrim, I had this same issue with a DarkSword Armory sword, was pretty disappointed but I found a fix.Buy some JB Weld liquid steel epoxy, it dries VERY HARD, I know someone will be perverted. Just fill the entire handle and pommel with the epoxy put it together, clean the residue, and let it dry for about a say. This will make it much for solid and functional, had great luck out of my Darksword Armory.
BirthOfSerpents i know, but still some of the fight are way, way ridiculous. like the fight between ned and jaime, they would have to send there sword out for days to get fixed from all the blade contact.
BirthOfSerpents yes, i thinks thats mostly because he likes to stay either one of two places, super close, or very far away. mostly because in a fight his go to weapon isnt his sword, it his kukri
add thin woodin shims to the guard to dampin the sound and to shore it from wabuling and to safe guard the threads of the pommul use plumers tape or lock tight gule (lock tight is just licquid plum tape and it can still be removed for travel or other)
You're supposed to build momentum with it. It's not meant to go from dead stop to de-limbing in a mere half swing. Do a figure eight or two first; once it's in motion, then try to cut; or try spinning your body first, using it as a spring to snap the blade into the target. In either case, you need two good knees.
Clint Carpentier Not quite true. You need to do several things to ensure your cut with a greatsword takes advantage of its weight, momentum and leverage: - Cut with full arm extension. This ensures momentum is not lost throughout the duration of your cut. You're fine to follow through after you cut through/past. - Sharpen the blade. The Lowlander comes moderately sharp. - Maintain good edge alignment. This is trickier than it seems with such a long hilt and this goes doubly so with the Lowlander because of how wobbly it is.
***** There are two kinds of European greatswords. One kind can, and was in fact used for duelling or as I'd prefer to put it, competitive purpose. This is because Northern European greatswords tended to be heavier and longer whereas Southern European greatswords tended to be somewhat shorter and lighter, making it much more 'fenceable'. The master Alfieri (who wrote the treatise Skall is in fact learning from) prefers the Southern European greatswords for this very reason.
And for the tang rattle, use an epoxy putty, and cram the walls of the handle, vaseline the tang, slide it in all the way, then take it out, and let the putty cure. That should cure most of the rattle, if combined with loctite or plumbers tape on the pommel threads.
Skall, relatively recently I've had to argue against someone on youtube who believed that large, two-handed, or 'great' swords were weapons that were adept at defeating opponents in armor. His idea was that greatswords could be used to 'break ribs through plate armor' and such. I argued that a hammer makes a better hammer than a sword ever could, and also I really doubted that even a 'great sword' could damage anyone enough to 'break ribs' through both plate armor and padding beneath it. What are your thoughts on Great sword versus armor through 'raw hitting power'?
Janas Aurora If you tried to strike plate armor hard enough to break bones underneath I think you may just end up breaking the blade itself. Or at least ruin the edge.
Janas Aurora Such swords can be used against armored opponents, but not by crushing blows - half swording is one way to go about it. The powerful blade combined with good mobility (is that the right word?) make it good for punching trough weak-spots in plate/mail armour. Also, striking someone in the head, either with the bladed part, or with the pommel/guard is sure to make them uncomfortable, regardless of the head protection they are wearing. Blows to the head can be very nasty.
***** ***** Thank you both for your responses. I actually told the guy that half-swording would be your best bet, and although dangerous, grappling would also be a decent choice if you're both decked out in plate and looking to get something done. I was extremely skeptical that putting your luck on a (in my view foolish) strike at the enemy's well-protected plate-armored chest was a bad move and a waste of energy. My words to him were in line with what Skall mentioned. Even a great sword is a better sword than it is a hammer. Even a great sword is expected to be sharp and expected to cut, or thrust, I would think. It wouldn't be made to look and function like a sword if one was intending to use the blade as a hammer. I would also say that the thin blade doesn't make a very good hammer, and his ideas of thick, heavy blunted blades were put into his mind by anime and the like, and have no historical context. His words were something like 'you wouldn't half-sword a blade of that size'. But he also thought that great swords were very heavy and blunted. He also said he's no expert by any means. I think modesty is lacking here on the internet/youtube in some cases, but it's safe to say he probably believed something that is in fact a misconception about great swords, being heavy, blunted, and somehow intended to defeat armor through sheer herculean force.
Janas Aurora yes and no. aim for the helmet, not the fucking chest plate. seriously? but yes it could kill someone in heavy armor but the head or weak spots in the armor are your best bet. I love greatswords but they aren't magic by any means. a hit to the head would at LEAST mess up their vision and leave them open for a death blow but depending on many variables (helmet material/shape. blade weight and flex) you could end up snapping their neck or scrambling their brain like an egg if you play your cards right.
DameonSpawn Yes, I thought the same thing. The torso would be the most well-protected spot if they're wearing plate-armor. Attacking that seems counter-intuitive to me. It'd be like firing a portable rocket-propelled grenade at the front of a modern tank, where one imagines the armor would be thickest. It would at least be smarter to attack where the armor is more pliable, or thin. You have a point about the head, though I'm fortunate to have never have had my skull battered in a helmet, I imagine that even with head protection, the shock of one, or multiple strikes to the head wouldn't be very pleasant, and the energy-transfer could still see you get pretty injured. That said, I do think that a decent-quality helmet, (I'd guess if the man can purchase plate armor he will have a very good helmet), will also be very thickly armored. A good helmet will also probably be designed to mitigate damage to the wearer by virtue of it's shape. Although it's a much better bet I think, than the torso, I'd still say just half-sword that weapon of yours for greater control and as always, try to go for the un-armored spots if any, or pray that you can grapple well with your opponent if you're both fully decked in armor. Half-swording it would be your best bet at using it to pierce at some gap, possibly even a gap that you've created via grappling. Also might be better for leveraging in general. At that point though, a dagger might suit you better. Something like a Rondel, perhaps.
I think the guard got split open on the opposing triangles covering the blade. If those flared out by the impact, the sword will bump from one triangle against the other on impact.
Sure, it's expensive, but if it is not satisfactory, then I believe it is your right to have it exchanged for a new one in better condition. One that will satisfy you. I recently bought a mask and it arrived with several paint scratches, so I'm having it sent back for a new one.
I received my Lowlander yesterday and I can confidently say Hanwei has made the guard fit ore tightly than the one in this video. Mine takes a hammer to assemble.
About the threaded tang. I'm not so sure you have as much to be worried about as you assume you do. I don't really know what your experiences are, but from what I've gathered the big deal most have with such tangs is with 'rat-tail' tangs.. which are generally much softer steel (and thus easier to thread) welded to the end of the blade. If the threaded part is the same kind of steel or indeed part of the original tang and not a welded-on piece you may not have as much to worry about as you previously assumed.
so, I'm wondering if you made kind of a leather or wooden washer to fit over the tang? Maybe one that kind of fits right on the blade end of the tang and folds over THEN put the crossguard on (I noticed someone suggested you tighten it in a vice, if you did, a leather washer would prevent the cross-guard scuffing the blade) then, I guess you could use tape or leather tonging to fill up the space between the tang and the hollow of the wooden handle. Once all that's done and the pommel is on nice and tightly, it should theoretically stop rattling. Since the pommel is hollow you could potentially fill it with lead (melted down fishing sinkers CAREFULLY poured in outside, in a well ventilated space and with respiratory protection) this should further weight the pommel if you wanted the balance closer to the guard. In all honesty, I think any sword of that size, unless the steel was absolutely rigid (which would be bad, since the stresses of wielding it could then cause it to snap) well, you're going to get those waves forming throughout the length anyway, it's just energy dispersing along the length of the sword in waves, kind of like an instrument string vibrating.
It rattles because you can remove the guard. If you want, you can bring it to a smith, ask him to tighten the guard while it's on the balde, it will stop for... Forever. Also, what do you think about Pavel Marek's Zweihanders? Will you EVER think about buying one?
Good vid, thanks. There will remain the question...perhaps forever...whether honed with a beautiful sharp edge the sword would vibrate less like a blunt club struck against the bells of Notre Dame. Where's the point of percussion on a thing like that? The principal quality of such a long weapon has to be the speed with which the tip travels. Should the opportunity present, please test a good edge and put that quality of extraordinary speed to the test. I suspect that any tatami-like thing you strike in the last third or quarter of the blade will part cleanly.
I think the rattling may be caused by the vibrating blade hitting against the tangs on the guard. Have a look. As to the tang thred strength, you can add locktite adhesive to ensure that it doesn't come off easy. I work metal in daily basis and we have used it before
LovushkaAMVs No like instead of opening the blade by flipping the non bladed pieces around you flip around the two bladed pieces, cut up your hand and fingers to high holy hell, buuuuut, now you have the greatest weapon to bonk people on the head with.
The wiggling (at least for me) was caused by a little bit of extra space between the inside of the guard and the tang. Mine was loose when I got it and I shimmed it and now it doesn't wiggle at all, you might have the same problem just the pommel was initially tight enough to hold the guard in place (until you started hitting stuff)
I bought one of these quite some time ago and I have encountered all the same issues with it - with the exception of one more. After having taken it a part several times to transport it around the pommel has threaded and no longer stays on. I would like to fix it; somehow, but frankly as Skall basically said, it's a wall hanger. A very nice, very expensive wall hanger.
What if you brazed some softer metal into the hole the sward fits thew in the guard. With a bit of sand paper you could get a perfect fit. Lead, pewter, copper or bronze would all work.
1) Sharpen the blade 2) Use the tip end of the blade, you were cutting way down on the blade which does not make use of the potential blade velocity 3) Dead mat 4) The guard can be supported with a wood or metal wedge which would be easy with the threaded pommel
Two handed swords were originaly made to break walls of pikes and halberds (too slow for other things). That's why it appears in 15th century in Germany after battalions of pikes from Swiss, walking together in pace thanks to drums. The blade even wasn't sharp, to break wood: its was thick and not flexible at all (seen in French museum, in an authentic former defensive castle). If you want to understand historical weapons, go in museum to see real weapons from the time, not contemporary ones made from pictures, and read historian's books, like me. Basic tactics was to use giant germans coming chaotically from the side, to not be stabed, by the wall of pikes in one direction, in a raw, hard to move (this was made to stop cavalry, like hoplites phalanx in antiquity (like Alexander the great)). One blow can break a bunch of pikes, making them inefective. The two handed swordman had always another sword, more light (long sword, or even short sword), to use in close combat after. See: www.google.fr/search?q=german+mercenary+two+handed+sword&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiQvq6dn6TdAhXPyYUKHbpMAYkQ_AUICigB&biw=1280&bih=887 you can imagine also how it was easy for the two handed sword to break horse legs or even plate armor or helmet (not by cutting but really like massive hammer), the particularity being not easy to dodge with plate armor or horse. In close combat with light armor oponent, must be really inefective, except vs wooden shield. Same period, they invented special tricks and techniques to fight agaisnt full plate armor (which was not the goal of german mercenaries: full plate armor was for the richest=nobility). demo and explanations (in french, but easy to understand here). ua-cam.com/video/JFbQXpRvL2Y/v-deo.html with original drawings from medieval instructional books: ua-cam.com/video/5hlIUrd7d1Q/v-deo.html remark that this is not sport with rules, but nasty efficient tricks to kill (real true warfare, martial art, and some can recognize aikido tricks, which was invented for samurais in full armor too, not boxing on a ring (with rules to avoid deadly strikes: like here wher you cant even stab: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Historical_medieval_battles ua-cam.com/video/wYZ8QKNYwpQ/v-deo.html where blades are even unsharped to not hurt, like in historical joust (see le livre des tournois du roi Rene d'Anjou (my town) to codify this as sport: fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livre_des_tournois www.google.fr/search?q=le+livre+des+tournois+du+roi+Rene+d%27Anjou&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjs3_j0qqTdAhUInRoKHSW8DNMQ_AUICigB&biw=1280&bih=887 ) or in cinema (adding, swing, dance and gore, more visible and spectacular things), which a is a common confusion). VOILA!
Skall, I truly understand your concerns about this sword. You own the Hanwei claymore as well and that one is a sword that does not have threaded construction and I really own the Hanwei claymore myself so I know what I talk about. I hope Hanwei will upgrade this Lowlander sword to a none-threaded design soon...
I'm fairly sure that since the guard itself seems solid the blade continues to vibrate and rattle inside of the grip. Perhaps this could be somewhat fixed on the cheap by wrapping some cloth around the tang and adding a washer between the pommel and grip? Seems like a waste to leave it hanging on the wall when its basically a sound blade, just with shoddy furnishing.
This is what Ice should've looked like. Except wider. It is fantasy, so why not get a bit ridiculous with it? Valyrian steel is supposed to be lighter, after all.
Ryan Cox Seriously, the reproduction is something like 15-20 pounds. It is pretty much a useless blade, as any Joe Shmoe would have run Eddard or any other Stark wielding it, through, before they could drop the first blow. Longclaw and Oathkeeper were much better designed, though neither of them have the beauty in simplicity of Narsil from LoTR.
what you said here got my attention and reminded me of subject matter i been meaning to get around to making a video about. I owned 2 very nice scimitars that i still have featured in the opening dramatic trailer in my videos....anyway, these swords are awesome, but the trouble with them is that if you want to actually use them for anything other than dancing with and dramatic wielding for choreographic purposes based on a lot of stuff that i am into...but it seems that you have to go and have these swords modified and welded in some places...the scimitars i had had very flimsey tangs inside the handles in which i would add a piece of steel tubing and re-wrap and re-decorate the handle...anyway i cut small trees with the scimitars...but after a few times, the blade held up nicely and was thick enough, but like i said, they look awesome, but i would have an added reinforcement welded to it because the tang is intentionally made very cheap....its almost like someone somewhere wants to discourage you from actually using it....and also the fact that they cut costs and also so they can manufacture them faster ... but i still love theme nonetheless..i train with weighted objects and try to make exercise for fun..i love the sword bellydance, medieval dances ..the feminine aspects and the male aspects thereof ... and create my own workouts with added stuff of my own...i use the swords for symbolism on walls of a would-be gym i would create....i have experimented with the Zoorkhanneh (Persian sword weilding and club swinging workouts) and re-tooled my own version of it......i also would like to tell people to be careful of those flails and nun-chucks that you buy at large outdoor markets ..because the chains will come apart and hurt somebody if your maybe doing some amateur spinning and dancing choreography....like i said...have it modified, welded or whatever...i also say do stuff as more of poses or gestures in a wielding fashion like i do do build muscles first over any whipping around of crazy swinging before your ready...or if the area isn't big enough.....i like wielding gestures and light spinning, turning , squatting and stuff you can use to build muscles..and its fun too
You should take a deeper look at that blade, Skal, see where the rattling is actually coming from. From what I can see, the hilt and crossguard all look intact, it might be the pommel that's causing the rattle. Seeing as it's a screw on and a hollow pommel at that, there's a chance the inner threading of the pommel might be starting to strip. I think they sell replacement pommels, if you were to pick one up at some point and see if that fixes the rattling. Just speculation, though.
I have a friend who has an authentic sword exactly like that one. It has a wire wrapped grip and the blade still has hammer marks in it. The whole thing is rusty but it makes that rattling sound too. The rings were for holding while you anchored it under your foot so that you could take down charging horses.
Imagine being attacked with this monster wielded by a gritty highlander 6"" tall and 300lbs. How to defend against it, given, that this thing is used in a battle and not 1 on 1 because here, it is just evading the blows and skewer him.
Skall, at that price range, have you thought of playing around with changing the sword to a full piece, that is it to say, modifying it in such a way that it's not supposed to come apart after. For example, If the guard is a little loose, you could place leather or a plastic ring around the inside to pressure fit it in, then trim the excess. You could then spray foam or epoxy the gaps in the handle (you'd have to space it to ensure it's straight) so that it's one solid piece. You could then glue the pommel to the thread and ensure everything is tight. Just a thought, by no means an expert, but seems like a fairly easy thing to do.
I love the sheer variety of lowlander swords, while claidheamh mòr's all are more or less the same in size and overall appearance, lowlanders vary immensely from things like this to great big things with elaborate guards featuring big metal plates to protect the hands. There's a bunch of good examples in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, tho a quick Google search does the job too.
It does sound like the handle. It seems the handle is kept in place by wedging it between the guard and pommel. The proper way to fit a handle is to heat up the tang and burn the wood to the exact size. I am sure that process would had cost more money though. That should be repairable. You can either make a new handle and burn it on, or you can possibly use a filler to fit the handle.
Ive been Using this sword for years, it has had that rattle in side impacts from day 1 and has never gave way (had it for 8 years now) its steel gives way to armor class but not by a long way, its one of the best 2handers ive used. Very fun, and beleive it or not VERY strong. 8.5/10
Little hope that you will reply, but it's been 7 years since you've had it for 8. If my math is correct, that's a pretty long time, and I was wondering you still have (and maybe use) it?
Maybe you can put some paper between components (and shape that paper to not be visible). It maybe wouldn't awesomly fix the structural integrity, but it would at least stop clacking.
something I heard, and can't remember where is that swords of this size were used to cut through the wooden shafts of pikes and Spears. the mercenary in the illustration you show does have a smaler sword at his side
I just purchased one. Can't wait. I'm not worried about the screw on pommel because I have owned swords with the same type of construction and I ended up cutting the grip shorter and cold peening the pommel on to make it solid. So if it gets on my nerves I'll just peen it.
I obviously don't know for sure because I haven't held it in my hands, or even seen it in person for that matter, but I would guess that the cause of the rattling is that after some use, the flexing of the blade slightly bent outward those little pointy bits on the top of the guard - so now there is some space between the inside surface of those bits and the blade, and when the blade vibrates, it hits the inside of those bits
The threading doesn't hold very long on this one. I've had one since '04. The threads are shot on the pommel. It's made from a soft material and can't handle the extreme vibrations that you get from a sword this size. Sooner or later the threads will wear out.
Hello, Skall! I think your problem is in that grip. All those brads (very small nails) poking holes in the wood grip induce stress points- I wouldn't be surprised if a brad on a grain is causing the hole to split a little further on each impact. It certainly looks like there are plenty of opportunities for a brad to have hit a grain, anyhow.... Its also possible that they've caused uneven moisture expansion.
Put a couple "O" rings on either end of the wood, after the guard and before the pommel. I think if it breaks anywhere, it'll be that wooden hilt. The tang to pommel transition looks fine to me, the tang looks fine, i don't think those will be an issue.
I noticed that there was a small section where the guard can be hammered back down to tighten the grip on the blade. If that fixed the problem with it vibrating, then I would like to see it in some videos. If it doesn't then try taking it to a smith and seeing how much it would cost to fix it.
Thanks for the review. It is especially timely, as I was planning on purchasing it tomorrow. I was considering modifying it, that is shortening the hilt and converting it to a peened pommel. However without knowing enough about the blade specs, I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort So now I can proceed with my second choice of a Valiant I-beam
2 thoughts Skall: I noticed that the guard has the triangular section going up each side of the blade and from the camera angle it looked like there was a slight gap between it and the blade. Could the blade be vibrating against those and causing the sound? My other thought is this: While this is speculation, it is a logical path to wonder if Kult offers items at discounted prices because they are B-grade or lower rejects; perhaps if there are any fit issues this could be why. Note: I am not blindly bashing Kult or you for vouching for Kult, I freely admit I do not know enough about the site or the general quality of their products, it just seemed like a logical possibility.
I own one myself, the rattle is caused by gaps made between the tang and the handle, I usually try to tighten the pommel a little more. Also, the those studs on the leather grip of the handle may start to come loose and pop out after extended use. Besides that, it's still one of my favorites.
it appears that the blade is rattling against the quillion extensions running down the ricasso and shouldn't present as too much of a problem. to eliminate the rattling try adhering some leather to the inside of the contact point, this will also give the blade a tighter fit. the leather may need to be replaced from time to time.
You should consider wrapping the tang in teflon tap or something similar. Not necessarily as a fix but to see if it is just the tang rattling within the grip. I
I would assume that rattling means they didn't burn the wood onto the tang, making the hole drilled into the wood larger than the tang. That would create rattling and looseness.
hi skal, did your opinion on the sword change since this video was made? I always liked it but I've never had the chance to talk with someone actually owning it. let me know if you decided to keep it and how did your opinion about it evolved with time (if it did) thanks a lot. Davide
Add a piece of masking tape to the middle of the tang. If masking tape is too bulky to allow re-assembly, then use some other type. Maybe Scott's tape. This would just be to test if the sound you're hearing is, for sure, the tang vibrating against the inside of the handle. I bet once you have the tape on, the sword re-assembled, it will respond to impact a bit more quietly. The thin tang is probably vibrating like a plucked string, in so long a handle as that sword has..
Sounds like improper grip fit. might try re-handling or possibly inserting some sort of shim between the tang and handle down near the pommel. You'll have to do at least two, one from either side, to keep it straight...
I wouldn't think you need to worry about the threaded tang breaking, it is a part of the rest of the tang, and that, in turn, is a part of the blade, which is doing most of the flexing......but this just a guess......perhaps you should do a test to destruction video so we can see what happens?
The wood in the grip is damaged. The grip is most likely made of cheaper wood. This allows the sword to be made more cheaply. I think that making a grip out of oak, or hickory might be better. I'm no expert, but I hope this helps.
Why are greatswords often associated with mercenaries? My first thought would be that it is an effective weapon that comes as a single unit, not necessitating the carrying of a shield or other such item to be used in the off hand, but I sincerely would love to know the actual reason for the connection!
from what i know about the Scottish great sword it was used for keeping people at range or was used on horse back or even used as an initial stabbing weapon when the first charge happens normally they kept a much shorter sword for classic fighting it was never a great striking weapon because it was just too big by the time you get ready to strike some one could be inside your guard but that's just what i know about it
Manufacturer states blade is 1566 spring steel 'a high-carbon and manganese spring steel used by Hanwei in many of their differentially hardened Japanese swords and through-hardened medieval swords. I suspect that any steel that long, that profile, will will have a resonant frequency where it will vibrate like that. I haven't handled the lowlander you're reviewing here but I've found the highlander to be very solid.
Skall, would you say that because the sword easily comes apart you could probably fix the vibration issues with a few modifications? Like a new custom handle and pommel.
***** If I may offer some advice as a fellow enthusiast. Your guess appears to be very correct about the tang rattling in the hilt. I've never encountered that problem with a Hanwei sword, but I HAVE with other manufacturers (Windlass especially). Since you can take it apart, it is very possible to use some wood paste to tighten up the handle. I've done this 3 times with great success. I WILL say, however, that the tang itself appears to wobble a bit more than I'd like to see, which means it will probably come loose again, since the wood can't flex. ALSO, even if it were more sharp, this sword would have a tough time cutting tatami. Tatami offers a LOT of resistance because of it's many fibers. Mix that with the large surface of this type of blade and a successful cut is not likely. Your ability is legit. I do have to say, you NEED a Japanese cutting stand. They're easy to make and will hold your mats firmly in place. Great video and thanks for sharing.
Skall, I've seen videos with people using lowlanders cutting all manner of things. I heard about, but could not find a video of a guy who tore one up thrusting through a car door, It did look like it was rattling inside the handle. Do you think, knowing about Hanwei's quality control,l it could be you just got a bad one? Thank-you, Dante,
Nice video skall, I just think you need to remember that those swords on the battlefield were mainly used to counter Spears and later pikemen, and we're mainly used as stabbing weapons.
I think the sound is caused by the fact that you can disassemble the grip and pomle if you filled it with appoxy or something and made it a more solid construction I think that would stop. Not sure how durable it would remain like that for. Even if the apoxy was just to keep the tang from rattling in the grip. .. I'm no expert and maybe there something better than apoxy...
I would suspect where the guard hugs the blade on the sides, might not be close enough a fit and thus it's wiggling and then touching the guard? Couldn't see well enough from the video, just mentioning it if you hadn't checked.
Threads on the tang, may be sligtly too long, and cannot be tightend enough. Measure the length of the threaded tang, and the depth of the pommel, to be sure they are at their optimum size.
The vibrations are a special feature that loosen the pommel making it easier to end someone rightly....
The vibrations would certainly make it easy to end a lass rightly.
lmao that is such a inside joke i love it
Hey Skall, my experience of Hanwei swords is that they all end up with loose rattling hilts - this seems to be due to two main reasons; 1) their threads are quite thin and the nuts (or pommels in this case) always seem to work loose, but most importantly 2) they use grip wood which is too soft. The wood of the grip compresses and leaves space at both ends. The blades are generally good though, so with some modification they can be made better. If you want a little project then drill a hole right through the pommel, insert the tang right through and peen it at the end. Then make a new grip of hardwood such as ash or birch and glue it on in two halves, then wrap as shown in the Albion construction video. I've actually considered buying one of these just for the blade, stripping the hilt off and making my own. But these days you're better off just going straight to someone like Peter Regenyei for a zweihander.
scholagladiatoria Yes, poor choice of wood for the handle is a pretty common problem, not just with Hanwei swords. As a project sword this would probably be pretty good. Make a new grip, glue or even weld the guard onto the blade / tang, peen the pommel, sharpen the blade... If only I had some work space. But apartments kind of suck for crafting purposes. :)
scholagladiatoria i think it was one of your videos which pointed out the tang forming the celtic cross style pommel .
something this large is going to put a massive strain on the entire handle assembly when you hit something .a combo of cutting corners and adding even more mass really isn't going to help the end product.
***** Sorry man :( everybody should have a shed to feck about in . i mean do really important work furthering humanity and transcending the mere material plane ext . ;)
***** Sounds like the tang is rattling inside the grip to me. All wood expands with moisture, contracts with dryness and I'm guessing the atmosphere in Canada over winter is pretty dry compared to where the sword was manufactured. When wood with a hole up the middle shrinks as it dries you'd think it would get tighter on the tang but in fact the hole actually gets bigger. Hence the loosening. You could try wrapping the tang with something to fill the gap. It probably wouldn't take much and you'd want something that would compress if you get a damp summer and the wood swells up again. So I'd try some PTFE plumbing tape. If you glue the grip onto the tang it will most like split if the wood swells.
***** Well another option it to essentially expand the grip length with washers at top and bottom (leather works). Then screw the pommel down as tight as possible. I'm lucky enough to have lots of space to work in, but no time to do it! This should be a relatively easy fix though and the blade itself is probably good.
The pommel loosens easily? Makes it easier to unscrew it and throw it at somebody.
Does loctite do anything for that?
Finally a sword used to end thyne foes rightly
We all shall end our foes *rightly!*
(I'll never get tired of this joke lmao)
Tommy Wiseau O hi Mark
You predicted a meme on Mordhau
You don't need a good blade if you have an unscrewable pommel to end them rightly.
The thing that I love about the Hanwei Lowlander is it's size. To me, THAT'S the proper size of a greatsword, of which I go into further detail in:
ua-cam.com/video/FWWpzXOuk_s/v-deo.html
Shadiversity YO commet back
plug plug plug plug plug. plug.
what about a two handed claymore is that a longsword or a greatsword
Shadiversity What is the difference between a great sword and a claymore?
Oh hi shad
You seem much happier now that you can walk around and exercise again. Very good review.
Such a shame, that's a beautiful sword
trust me a good quality greatsword would have no problem cutting though a mat.
I've seen this exact sword on a local shop and I honestly would have expected better from something like this.
One of these days, (Halloween perhaps)you should label it like it's a real review,and come out with a black robe an a wheat threshing scythe & review that.
The same thing happened very quickly to my Hanwei Claymore. It doesn't rattle when handling it, but when I hit it the same way you did at 6:54 it makes the same sound.
As an owner of exactly 0 swords I still really enjoy your reviews as I have for the last couple of years! Keep up the great work and congrats and the 300k milestone!
now, make it chaos.
Ioseph Stalin +5? And wear 2 rings?
Sakuya Izayoi Bitches knows wut those rings are....
Ioseph Stalin Giants, Giants, Giants BECOME UNSTOPPABLEwhat rings u got bitch?
BoredToDie AND DON'T FCKNG FORGET about two black flames. And wear the best looking mask. Only after that you become UNSTOPPABLE!
Sakuya Izayoi u scrub. Git gut. Forgot fucking crest shield.
Add Pressure Point, Virulent Scourge, True Steel, Focus Energy, Jagged Edge, Rending Strike, Fury and Berserker and you have a really good grineer killer!
You don't know the bleed build do you? The one that bypasses all armor?
Pressure Point, Fury, Berserker, Blood Rush, Drifting Contact, Weeping Wounds, Reach and Organ Shatter.
Alternatively you could swap out Fury with True Steel, but it's more fun when you're spinning around so fast.
Thank you for laying this one to rest for me. Another excellent review, you scrutinize everything to death... it's very appreciated... I will stick with my Odachi for my big blade fix. It's just shy of 6 feet, and I hand polish my blades, so they go through all tatami and jugs like butter... Always wanted this sword though, having held it once upon a time... But the quality seems lacking, and the lack of information on it disturbs me... Again, great vid, and thanks much for your honesty!!
Looks easily repairable to me in it's current condition and screw pommels last longer than you'd think if they are well made.
I'd be VERY happy with that sword for the price.
Congratulations on having over 300,000 subscribers!
Brandon Tran Thanks. :)
JustSimplyBrandon check again
the handle is probably not burned on the tang, so the hole in the wooden handle is slightly larger than the tang itself, which probably causes the rattling!!
I've owned one of these as well, though I ended up selling it a few years back, and I generally agree with your impressions.
What I did was pack the space inside the grip with spray-foam insulation (called Great Stuff here in the US, I'm not sure about availability elsewhere). If one was more concerned with period accuracy, leather scraps or something similar might work just as well. That definitely helped the rattle, though I did still flex under high impact cuts.
On a technique note, I haven't actually found attestation for this anywhere, but I've fought with greatweapons in a variety of recreationist groups, and found that sliding the forward hand, like you would with an axe or polearm, really helps get the most out of a sword with a grip long enough to get in the way, like this one.
I've used wood shims in similar fashion.
you know what else feels good in the hand and needs two hands to handle?
ye i dont either
the highlander sword
Lion Reichelt a warhammer with a good shaft.
My dick!!
Everyone's thinking it.
I'm just saying it.
A halberd. Nothing beats a good halberd.
@@davecrupel2817 I mean i would've gladly said it... too bad I'm a few months late
Skall, Perhaps the issue with the tatami cutting is there wasn't enough velocity to constitute the cut. Velocity is mass x acceleration. With this large sword, there is a considerable increase in mass in comparison to your messer, but the mass makes it harder for the operator to accelerate the sword to the same effect as a less hefty sword. So even though your messer doesnt have as much mass or weight or general heft as the Lowlander, you can accelerate it at a much faster rate creating a higher velocity which assists in the cut. I would argue that cutting with this blade in the same manner as cutting with a long sword wont deliver the same effect when contacting thick targets like tatami. If memory serves me right, don't many manuscripts about great swords encourage a whirling type motion to build up momentum? Perhaps this is what delivers the insane cutting power people mentally associate with a large sword. Im no expert on physics or HEMA, but I thought I'd drop my two cents in about this blade and its performance.
I love how the guard is long enough to be a sheath for a short sword
Hey Skallagrim, I had this same issue with a DarkSword Armory sword, was pretty disappointed but I found a fix.Buy some JB Weld liquid steel epoxy, it dries VERY HARD, I know someone will be perverted. Just fill the entire handle and pommel with the epoxy put it together, clean the residue, and let it dry for about a say. This will make it much for solid and functional, had great luck out of my Darksword Armory.
skall i would love to see you do a video scrutinizing the deuls in game of thrones.
BirthOfSerpents i know, but still some of the fight are way, way ridiculous. like the fight between ned and jaime, they would have to send there sword out for days to get fixed from all the blade contact.
BirthOfSerpents yes, i thinks thats mostly because he likes to stay either one of two places, super close, or very far away. mostly because in a fight his go to weapon isnt his sword, it his kukri
add thin woodin shims to the guard to dampin the sound and to shore it from wabuling
and to safe guard the threads of the pommul use plumers tape or lock tight gule (lock tight is just licquid plum tape and it can still be removed for travel or other)
You're supposed to build momentum with it. It's not meant to go from dead stop to de-limbing in a mere half swing. Do a figure eight or two first; once it's in motion, then try to cut; or try spinning your body first, using it as a spring to snap the blade into the target.
In either case, you need two good knees.
Clint Carpentier Not quite true. You need to do several things to ensure your cut with a greatsword takes advantage of its weight, momentum and leverage:
- Cut with full arm extension. This ensures momentum is not lost throughout the duration of your cut. You're fine to follow through after you cut through/past.
- Sharpen the blade. The Lowlander comes moderately sharp.
- Maintain good edge alignment. This is trickier than it seems with such a long hilt and this goes doubly so with the Lowlander because of how wobbly it is.
***** There are two kinds of European greatswords. One kind can, and was in fact used for duelling or as I'd prefer to put it, competitive purpose. This is because Northern European greatswords tended to be heavier and longer whereas Southern European greatswords tended to be somewhat shorter and lighter, making it much more 'fenceable'. The master Alfieri (who wrote the treatise Skall is in fact learning from) prefers the Southern European greatswords for this very reason.
And for the tang rattle, use an epoxy putty, and cram the walls of the handle, vaseline the tang, slide it in all the way, then take it out, and let the putty cure. That should cure most of the rattle, if combined with loctite or plumbers tape on the pommel threads.
Skall, relatively recently I've had to argue against someone on youtube who believed that large, two-handed, or 'great' swords were weapons that were adept at defeating opponents in armor. His idea was that greatswords could be used to 'break ribs through plate armor' and such. I argued that a hammer makes a better hammer than a sword ever could, and also I really doubted that even a 'great sword' could damage anyone enough to 'break ribs' through both plate armor and padding beneath it.
What are your thoughts on Great sword versus armor through 'raw hitting power'?
Janas Aurora If you tried to strike plate armor hard enough to break bones underneath I think you may just end up breaking the blade itself. Or at least ruin the edge.
Janas Aurora
Such swords can be used against armored opponents, but not by crushing blows - half swording is one way to go about it. The powerful blade combined with good mobility (is that the right word?) make it good for punching trough weak-spots in plate/mail armour.
Also, striking someone in the head, either with the bladed part, or with the pommel/guard is sure to make them uncomfortable, regardless of the head protection they are wearing. Blows to the head can be very nasty.
*****
*****
Thank you both for your responses. I actually told the guy that half-swording would be your best bet, and although dangerous, grappling would also be a decent choice if you're both decked out in plate and looking to get something done. I was extremely skeptical that putting your luck on a (in my view foolish) strike at the enemy's well-protected plate-armored chest was a bad move and a waste of energy.
My words to him were in line with what Skall mentioned. Even a great sword is a better sword than it is a hammer. Even a great sword is expected to be sharp and expected to cut, or thrust, I would think. It wouldn't be made to look and function like a sword if one was intending to use the blade as a hammer. I would also say that the thin blade doesn't make a very good hammer, and his ideas of thick, heavy blunted blades were put into his mind by anime and the like, and have no historical context.
His words were something like 'you wouldn't half-sword a blade of that size'. But he also thought that great swords were very heavy and blunted.
He also said he's no expert by any means. I think modesty is lacking here on the internet/youtube in some cases, but it's safe to say he probably believed something that is in fact a misconception about great swords, being heavy, blunted, and somehow intended to defeat armor through sheer herculean force.
Janas Aurora yes and no. aim for the helmet, not the fucking chest plate. seriously? but yes it could kill someone in heavy armor but the head or weak spots in the armor are your best bet. I love greatswords but they aren't magic by any means. a hit to the head would at LEAST mess up their vision and leave them open for a death blow but depending on many variables (helmet material/shape. blade weight and flex) you could end up snapping their neck or scrambling their brain like an egg if you play your cards right.
DameonSpawn Yes, I thought the same thing. The torso would be the most well-protected spot if they're wearing plate-armor. Attacking that seems counter-intuitive to me. It'd be like firing a portable rocket-propelled grenade at the front of a modern tank, where one imagines the armor would be thickest. It would at least be smarter to attack where the armor is more pliable, or thin.
You have a point about the head, though I'm fortunate to have never have had my skull battered in a helmet, I imagine that even with head protection, the shock of one, or multiple strikes to the head wouldn't be very pleasant, and the energy-transfer could still see you get pretty injured.
That said, I do think that a decent-quality helmet, (I'd guess if the man can purchase plate armor he will have a very good helmet), will also be very thickly armored. A good helmet will also probably be designed to mitigate damage to the wearer by virtue of it's shape. Although it's a much better bet I think, than the torso, I'd still say just half-sword that weapon of yours for greater control and as always, try to go for the un-armored spots if any, or pray that you can grapple well with your opponent if you're both fully decked in armor. Half-swording it would be your best bet at using it to pierce at some gap, possibly even a gap that you've created via grappling. Also might be better for leveraging in general.
At that point though, a dagger might suit you better. Something like a Rondel, perhaps.
I think the guard got split open on the opposing triangles covering the blade.
If those flared out by the impact, the sword will bump from one triangle against the other on impact.
Sure, it's expensive, but if it is not satisfactory, then I believe it is your right to have it exchanged for a new one in better condition. One that will satisfy you. I recently bought a mask and it arrived with several paint scratches, so I'm having it sent back for a new one.
CounterNerd really? A couple paint scratches?
I received my Lowlander yesterday and I can confidently say Hanwei has made the guard fit ore tightly than the one in this video. Mine takes a hammer to assemble.
i half expected him to put the sword in frame and half of it to be gone :p
About the threaded tang.
I'm not so sure you have as much to be worried about as you assume you do. I don't really know what your experiences are, but from what I've gathered the big deal most have with such tangs is with 'rat-tail' tangs.. which are generally much softer steel (and thus easier to thread) welded to the end of the blade.
If the threaded part is the same kind of steel or indeed part of the original tang and not a welded-on piece you may not have as much to worry about as you previously assumed.
Hanwei does have a tendency to make stuff that doesn't hold up so well over time.
so, I'm wondering if you made kind of a leather or wooden washer to fit over the tang?
Maybe one that kind of fits right on the blade end of the tang and folds over THEN put the crossguard on (I noticed someone suggested you tighten it in a vice, if you did, a leather washer would prevent the cross-guard scuffing the blade) then, I guess you could use tape or leather tonging to fill up the space between the tang and the hollow of the wooden handle.
Once all that's done and the pommel is on nice and tightly, it should theoretically stop rattling.
Since the pommel is hollow you could potentially fill it with lead (melted down fishing sinkers CAREFULLY poured in outside, in a well ventilated space and with respiratory protection) this should further weight the pommel if you wanted the balance closer to the guard.
In all honesty, I think any sword of that size, unless the steel was absolutely rigid (which would be bad, since the stresses of wielding it could then cause it to snap) well, you're going to get those waves forming throughout the length anyway, it's just energy dispersing along the length of the sword in waves, kind of like an instrument string vibrating.
seeing him unscrew that pommel made me moister than an oyster!
Ethan Metcalf wth lmao
It rattles because you can remove the guard. If you want, you can bring it to a smith, ask him to tighten the guard while it's on the balde, it will stop for... Forever.
Also, what do you think about Pavel Marek's Zweihanders? Will you EVER think about buying one?
you say hollow pommel i hear hollow point bullet.
Good vid, thanks. There will remain the question...perhaps forever...whether honed with a beautiful sharp edge the sword would vibrate less like a blunt club struck against the bells of Notre Dame.
Where's the point of percussion on a thing like that?
The principal quality of such a long weapon has to be the speed with which the tip travels. Should the opportunity present, please test a good edge and put that quality of extraordinary speed to the test. I suspect that any tatami-like thing you strike in the last third or quarter of the blade will part cleanly.
Nice bagpipe tune during the pumpkin-slicer clip.
I think the rattling may be caused by the vibrating blade hitting against the tangs on the guard. Have a look. As to the tang thred strength, you can add locktite adhesive to ensure that it doesn't come off easy. I work metal in daily basis and we have used it before
Ok so imagine this. A butterfly knife, but with two blades and one handle.
The 2 blades on the same end, or separate ends? (like Darth Maul's saberstaff from The Phantom Menace)
Amazing.
The real Gjallarhorn Almost impractical
LovushkaAMVs No like instead of opening the blade by flipping the non bladed pieces around you flip around the two bladed pieces, cut up your hand and fingers to high holy hell, buuuuut, now you have the greatest weapon to bonk people on the head with.
The wiggling (at least for me) was caused by a little bit of extra space between the inside of the guard and the tang. Mine was loose when I got it and I shimmed it and now it doesn't wiggle at all, you might have the same problem just the pommel was initially tight enough to hold the guard in place (until you started hitting stuff)
Don má glats!
Holden Cross Buff Ma Class!
BUFFED MAH CLASS!
PREEEUUR HAD
Holden Cross Cross Your A Spaz!
JK
Is this the sword he uses?
I bought one of these quite some time ago and I have encountered all the same issues with it - with the exception of one more. After having taken it a part several times to transport it around the pommel has threaded and no longer stays on. I would like to fix it; somehow, but frankly as Skall basically said, it's a wall hanger. A very nice, very expensive wall hanger.
Yay! Some footage of the Langes Messer! *swordgasm *
What if you brazed some softer metal into the hole the sward fits thew in the guard. With a bit of sand paper you could get a perfect fit. Lead, pewter, copper or bronze would all work.
OMG the German katana knife thingy cuts so well!
Son H Große Messer
Son H oh good lord "german katana thingy"?! Really?!
DevinSmith56 Nope it is now officially called The German Katana Knife Thingy.
Son H my new name for messers
i love you for that lol
I'm just going to put my head on the desk for awhile.
1) Sharpen the blade 2) Use the tip end of the blade, you were cutting way down on the blade which does not make use of the potential blade velocity 3) Dead mat 4) The guard can be supported with a wood or metal wedge which would be easy with the threaded pommel
Two handed swords were originaly made to break walls of pikes and halberds (too slow for other things).
That's why it appears in 15th century in Germany after battalions of pikes from Swiss, walking together in pace thanks to drums.
The blade even wasn't sharp, to break wood: its was thick and not flexible at all (seen in French museum, in an authentic former defensive castle).
If you want to understand historical weapons, go in museum to see real weapons from the time, not contemporary ones made from pictures, and read historian's books, like me.
Basic tactics was to use giant germans coming chaotically from the side, to not be stabed, by the wall of pikes in one direction, in a raw, hard to move (this was made to stop cavalry, like hoplites phalanx in antiquity (like Alexander the great)). One blow can break a bunch of pikes, making them inefective. The two handed swordman had always another sword, more light (long sword, or even short sword), to use in close combat after.
See:
www.google.fr/search?q=german+mercenary+two+handed+sword&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiQvq6dn6TdAhXPyYUKHbpMAYkQ_AUICigB&biw=1280&bih=887
you can imagine also how it was easy for the two handed sword to break horse legs or even plate armor or helmet (not by cutting but really like massive hammer), the particularity being not easy to dodge with plate armor or horse.
In close combat with light armor oponent, must be really inefective, except vs wooden shield.
Same period, they invented special tricks and techniques to fight agaisnt full plate armor (which was not the goal of german mercenaries: full plate armor was for the richest=nobility).
demo and explanations (in french, but easy to understand here).
ua-cam.com/video/JFbQXpRvL2Y/v-deo.html
with original drawings from medieval instructional books:
ua-cam.com/video/5hlIUrd7d1Q/v-deo.html
remark that this is not sport with rules, but nasty efficient tricks to kill (real true warfare, martial art, and some can recognize aikido tricks, which was invented for samurais in full armor too, not boxing on a ring (with rules to avoid deadly strikes: like here wher you cant even stab: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Historical_medieval_battles
ua-cam.com/video/wYZ8QKNYwpQ/v-deo.html
where blades are even unsharped to not hurt, like in historical joust (see le livre des tournois du roi Rene d'Anjou (my town) to codify this as sport: fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livre_des_tournois
www.google.fr/search?q=le+livre+des+tournois+du+roi+Rene+d%27Anjou&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjs3_j0qqTdAhUInRoKHSW8DNMQ_AUICigB&biw=1280&bih=887
) or in cinema (adding, swing, dance and gore, more visible and spectacular things), which a is a common confusion).
VOILA!
Skall, I truly understand your concerns about this sword. You own the Hanwei claymore as well and that one is a sword that does not have threaded construction and I really own the Hanwei claymore myself so I know what I talk about.
I hope Hanwei will upgrade this Lowlander sword to a none-threaded design soon...
What is that other sword you use in this video.
I need one of them.
***** Großes Messer
Albion swords - knecht.
***** Kriegsmesser
Enoch Tuong A much better blade.
***** It's his second Albion sword, I assume its just over a thousand dollars.
I'm fairly sure that since the guard itself seems solid the blade continues to vibrate and rattle inside of the grip.
Perhaps this could be somewhat fixed on the cheap by wrapping some cloth around the tang and adding a washer between the pommel and grip? Seems like a waste to leave it hanging on the wall when its basically a sound blade, just with shoddy furnishing.
This is what Ice should've looked like. Except wider. It is fantasy, so why not get a bit ridiculous with it? Valyrian steel is supposed to be lighter, after all.
Ryan Cox Seriously, the reproduction is something like 15-20 pounds. It is pretty much a useless blade, as any Joe Shmoe would have run Eddard or any other Stark wielding it, through, before they could drop the first blow.
Longclaw and Oathkeeper were much better designed, though neither of them have the beauty in simplicity of Narsil from LoTR.
what you said here got my attention and reminded me of subject matter i been meaning to get around to making a video about. I owned 2 very nice scimitars that i still have featured in the opening dramatic trailer in my videos....anyway, these swords are awesome, but the trouble with them is that if you want to actually use them for anything other than dancing with and dramatic wielding for choreographic purposes based on a lot of stuff that i am into...but it seems that you have to go and have these swords modified and welded in some places...the scimitars i had had very flimsey tangs inside the handles in which i would add a piece of steel tubing and re-wrap and re-decorate the handle...anyway i cut small trees with the scimitars...but after a few times, the blade held up nicely and was thick enough, but like i said, they look awesome, but i would have an added reinforcement welded to it because the tang is intentionally made very cheap....its almost like someone somewhere wants to discourage you from actually using it....and also the fact that they cut costs and also so they can manufacture them faster ... but i still love theme nonetheless..i train with weighted objects and try to make exercise for fun..i love the sword bellydance, medieval dances ..the feminine aspects and the male aspects thereof ... and create my own workouts with added stuff of my own...i use the swords for symbolism on walls of a would-be gym i would create....i have experimented with the Zoorkhanneh (Persian sword weilding and club swinging workouts) and re-tooled my own version of it......i also would like to tell people to be careful of those flails and nun-chucks that you buy at large outdoor markets ..because the chains will come apart and hurt somebody if your maybe doing some amateur spinning and dancing choreography....like i said...have it modified, welded or whatever...i also say do stuff as more of poses or gestures in a wielding fashion like i do do build muscles first over any whipping around of crazy swinging before your ready...or if the area isn't big enough.....i like wielding gestures and light spinning, turning , squatting and stuff you can use to build muscles..and its fun too
Swordgasm.
You should take a deeper look at that blade, Skal, see where the rattling is actually coming from. From what I can see, the hilt and crossguard all look intact, it might be the pommel that's causing the rattle. Seeing as it's a screw on and a hollow pommel at that, there's a chance the inner threading of the pommel might be starting to strip.
I think they sell replacement pommels, if you were to pick one up at some point and see if that fixes the rattling. Just speculation, though.
Cutting pumpkins, Dark Souls style ;)
I have a friend who has an authentic sword exactly like that one. It has a wire wrapped grip and the blade still has hammer marks in it. The whole thing is rusty but it makes that rattling sound too. The rings were for holding while you anchored it under your foot so that you could take down charging horses.
Imagine being attacked with this monster wielded by a gritty highlander 6"" tall and 300lbs. How to defend against it, given, that this thing is used in a battle and not 1 on 1 because here, it is just evading the blows and skewer him.
Yeah its a shame that most Scots aint giants and 300lbs/21 stone
Skall, at that price range, have you thought of playing around with changing the sword to a full piece, that is it to say, modifying it in such a way that it's not supposed to come apart after.
For example, If the guard is a little loose, you could place leather or a plastic ring around the inside to pressure fit it in, then trim the excess. You could then spray foam or epoxy the gaps in the handle (you'd have to space it to ensure it's straight) so that it's one solid piece. You could then glue the pommel to the thread and ensure everything is tight.
Just a thought, by no means an expert, but seems like a fairly easy thing to do.
I love the sheer variety of lowlander swords, while claidheamh mòr's all are more or less the same in size and overall appearance, lowlanders vary immensely from things like this to great big things with elaborate guards featuring big metal plates to protect the hands. There's a bunch of good examples in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, tho a quick Google search does the job too.
Did you steal that from Ned Stark ?
It does sound like the handle. It seems the handle is kept in place by wedging it between the guard and pommel. The proper way to fit a handle is to heat up the tang and burn the wood to the exact size. I am sure that process would had cost more money though. That should be repairable. You can either make a new handle and burn it on, or you can possibly use a filler to fit the handle.
DUNMAGLASS
Ive been Using this sword for years, it has had that rattle in side impacts from day 1 and has never gave way (had it for 8 years now) its steel gives way to armor class but not by a long way, its one of the best 2handers ive used. Very fun, and beleive it or not VERY strong. 8.5/10
Little hope that you will reply, but it's been 7 years since you've had it for 8. If my math is correct, that's a pretty long time, and I was wondering you still have (and maybe use) it?
Two handed? More like four handed
Goro would be happy!
Maybe you can put some paper between components (and shape that paper to not be visible). It maybe wouldn't awesomly fix the structural integrity, but it would at least stop clacking.
something I heard, and can't remember where is that swords of this size were used to cut through the wooden shafts of pikes and Spears. the mercenary in the illustration you show does have a smaler sword at his side
I just purchased one. Can't wait. I'm not worried about the screw on pommel because I have owned swords with the same type of construction and I ended up cutting the grip shorter and cold peening the pommel on to make it solid. So if it gets on my nerves I'll just peen it.
I obviously don't know for sure because I haven't held it in my hands, or even seen it in person for that matter, but I would guess that the cause of the rattling is that after some use, the flexing of the blade slightly bent outward those little pointy bits on the top of the guard - so now there is some space between the inside surface of those bits and the blade, and when the blade vibrates, it hits the inside of those bits
The threading doesn't hold very long on this one. I've had one since '04. The threads are shot on the pommel. It's made from a soft material and can't handle the extreme vibrations that you get from a sword this size. Sooner or later the threads will wear out.
Hello, Skall!
I think your problem is in that grip. All those brads (very small nails) poking holes in the wood grip induce stress points- I wouldn't be surprised if a brad on a grain is causing the hole to split a little further on each impact. It certainly looks like there are plenty of opportunities for a brad to have hit a grain, anyhow.... Its also possible that they've caused uneven moisture expansion.
Put a couple "O" rings on either end of the wood, after the guard and before the pommel. I think if it breaks anywhere, it'll be that wooden hilt. The tang to pommel transition looks fine to me, the tang looks fine, i don't think those will be an issue.
Great review as always Skall, keep up the good work my man
I noticed that there was a small section where the guard can be hammered back down to tighten the grip on the blade. If that fixed the problem with it vibrating, then I would like to see it in some videos. If it doesn't then try taking it to a smith and seeing how much it would cost to fix it.
Thanks for the review. It is especially timely, as I was planning on purchasing it tomorrow. I was considering modifying it, that is shortening the hilt and converting it to a peened pommel. However without knowing enough about the blade specs, I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort
So now I can proceed with my second choice of a Valiant I-beam
2 thoughts Skall: I noticed that the guard has the triangular section going up each side of the blade and from the camera angle it looked like there was a slight gap between it and the blade. Could the blade be vibrating against those and causing the sound? My other thought is this: While this is speculation, it is a logical path to wonder if Kult offers items at discounted prices because they are B-grade or lower rejects; perhaps if there are any fit issues this could be why. Note: I am not blindly bashing Kult or you for vouching for Kult, I freely admit I do not know enough about the site or the general quality of their products, it just seemed like a logical possibility.
I own one myself, the rattle is caused by gaps made between the tang and the handle, I usually try to tighten the pommel a little more. Also, the those studs on the leather grip of the handle may start to come loose and pop out after extended use. Besides that, it's still one of my favorites.
it appears that the blade is rattling against the quillion extensions running down the ricasso and shouldn't present as too much of a problem. to eliminate the rattling try adhering some leather to the inside of the contact point, this will also give the blade a tighter fit. the leather may need to be replaced from time to time.
You should consider wrapping the tang in teflon tap or something similar. Not necessarily as a fix but to see if it is just the tang rattling within the grip. I
I would assume that rattling means they didn't burn the wood onto the tang, making the hole drilled into the wood larger than the tang. That would create rattling and looseness.
It's an impressive sword. I shimmed the gaurd and sharpend it. Wow does it cut!
hi skal, did your opinion on the sword change since this video was made? I always liked it but I've never had the chance to talk with someone actually owning it.
let me know if you decided to keep it and how did your opinion about it evolved with time (if it did)
thanks a lot.
Davide
Add a piece of masking tape to the middle of the tang. If masking tape is too bulky to allow re-assembly, then use some other type. Maybe Scott's tape. This would just be to test if the sound you're hearing is, for sure, the tang vibrating against the inside of the handle. I bet once you have the tape on, the sword re-assembled, it will respond to impact a bit more quietly. The thin tang is probably vibrating like a plucked string, in so long a handle as that sword has..
Sounds like improper grip fit. might try re-handling or possibly inserting some sort of shim between the tang and handle down near the pommel. You'll have to do at least two, one from either side, to keep it straight...
I wouldn't think you need to worry about the threaded tang breaking, it is a part of the rest of the tang, and that, in turn, is a part of the blade, which is doing most of the flexing......but this just a guess......perhaps you should do a test to destruction video so we can see what happens?
The wood in the grip is damaged. The grip is most likely made of cheaper wood. This allows the sword to be made more cheaply. I think that making a grip out of oak, or hickory might be better. I'm no expert, but I hope this helps.
Why are greatswords often associated with mercenaries? My first thought would be that it is an effective weapon that comes as a single unit, not necessitating the carrying of a shield or other such item to be used in the off hand, but I sincerely would love to know the actual reason for the connection!
from what i know about the Scottish great sword it was used for keeping people at range or was used on horse back or even used as an initial stabbing weapon when the first charge happens normally they kept a much shorter sword for classic fighting it was never a great striking weapon because it was just too big by the time you get ready to strike some one could be inside your guard but that's just what i know about it
Manufacturer states blade is 1566 spring steel 'a high-carbon and manganese spring steel used by Hanwei in many of their differentially hardened Japanese swords and through-hardened medieval swords. I suspect that any steel that long, that profile, will will have a resonant frequency where it will vibrate like that. I haven't handled the lowlander you're reviewing here but I've found the highlander to be very solid.
Have you tried re-sharpening it, also is it the guard that's rattling about, if so do you think it would be possible to hammer it back to the blade?
Skall? did U take down the vid of U using the great sword Quillan move on the tire? I can't find it. Was it part of the other review?
Skall, would you say that because the sword easily comes apart you could probably fix the vibration issues with a few modifications? Like a new custom handle and pommel.
***** If I may offer some advice as a fellow enthusiast. Your guess appears to be very correct about the tang rattling in the hilt. I've never encountered that problem with a Hanwei sword, but I HAVE with other manufacturers (Windlass especially). Since you can take it apart, it is very possible to use some wood paste to tighten up the handle. I've done this 3 times with great success. I WILL say, however, that the tang itself appears to wobble a bit more than I'd like to see, which means it will probably come loose again, since the wood can't flex.
ALSO, even if it were more sharp, this sword would have a tough time cutting tatami. Tatami offers a LOT of resistance because of it's many fibers. Mix that with the large surface of this type of blade and a successful cut is not likely. Your ability is legit. I do have to say, you NEED a Japanese cutting stand. They're easy to make and will hold your mats firmly in place. Great video and thanks for sharing.
After looking through the Hanwei web catalog I have discovered that Hanwei has made a new steel. I wonder if that's what they're using.
So now that you've had it over a year, has anything changed? Did you test it to destruction, get rid of it, or just decide to keep it as a wallhanger?
Skall, I've seen videos with people using lowlanders cutting all manner of things. I heard about, but could not find a video of a guy who tore one up thrusting through a car door, It did look like it was rattling inside the handle. Do you think, knowing about Hanwei's quality control,l it could be you just got a bad one? Thank-you, Dante,
Nice video skall, I just think you need to remember that those swords on the battlefield were mainly used to counter Spears and later pikemen, and we're mainly used as stabbing weapons.
I think the sound is caused by the fact that you can disassemble the grip and pomle if you filled it with appoxy or something and made it a more solid construction I think that would stop. Not sure how durable it would remain like that for. Even if the apoxy was just to keep the tang from rattling in the grip. .. I'm no expert and maybe there something better than apoxy...
I would suspect where the guard hugs the blade on the sides, might not be close enough a fit and thus it's wiggling and then touching the guard?
Couldn't see well enough from the video, just mentioning it if you hadn't checked.
Threads on the tang, may be sligtly too long, and cannot be tightend enough. Measure the length of the threaded tang, and the depth of the pommel, to be sure they are at their optimum size.