I bought a brand new keg for 120 dollars and built a great 15.5 gallon reflux still. I can run reflux or run as pot still. Im using a 2000 watt low density heater element. All stainless steel. Using a variable controller.works great and very fun.
Brovo !! 40 yrs ago I started with a pressure cooker turn into a still. The migrated to a 5gal pot still to a 10 to a 20 gal to a 30 gal now. Like you've said 10 gallon an above you can't move till it's drained. Copperstill co. Makes a super still you don't need wrenches to take apart or put together. Pot stills only.
So an idea for using big fermentation barrels, go to a garden store and buy those trolleys ya can put a large pot plant on so you can manoeuvre your fermentation barrel/buckets with ease or if your handy on the tools build 1 with weight rated casters.
After I built a POC pot still and knew I wanted into the hobby I built a 50L keggle with a 2" CCVM out of 200mm tri-clamp pipes and while sometimes for smaller stripping run's I am looking at a 20L keg setup I mostly am happy with everything i'm glad to didn't start smaller as i would be to limited as i like to run two 20L wash's at a time.
9:18 And there really easy to "pickup" ;) - No joke i just went to a local brewer and after asking me what i wanted it for they gave it me and said have fun!
Just wanted to say I started my research with your channel and now I am going back through it now that I have a much better understanding....can't wait to start chasing the craft
If you’re not into pumps to move your product around a 30 liter kettle is about the limit if you want to lift it full. My rule is no more than 85% full gives you 24 liters of capacity. I use a 10 gallon cooler mash tun and when making high gravity ferments I have about 24 liters of wash to ferment, and that fits in a plastic bucket. 20 liters into the still. In America we are limited to about 15 amps at 115 volts unless you have access to 220 volts. With limited power I can heat up my still, run my product and be done in a day.So ask yourself: what can I lift, how much power do I have, and how much time do I have to make a run? Cheers!
Love my 50litre keg set up based on ur design of a design from someone else’s 👌I also don’t drink much either but have plenty of different all grain product just stashed away on wood mellowing out,thanks for all that you do 👍
Thanks Jessie. I almost stopped distilling because I started with a pot still that could take 80l of wash. I like the way you explain the reason for size.
To move around your mash consider putting a dolly under it. I have taken off the rug and filled in the middle with wood. works really well up to 50 gal or so.
I started on a 15L still and I totally agree with using something that size first. You can make mistakes, tweak your recipes, etc. for much less money and headache. I now have a 75L but use my 15L for experimental runs.
I start with Bucket in Bucket still. After I take a look at plans published in the Internet. 10 Liters pot and 60 cm column and 40 cm of cooler was chosen. After I start a hunt for pipes, fittings, gas burner, all the soldering things. It was long process - about 3 months to make it all. But the hardest of all was to adjust everything... It takes 3 years. Something like that.
One very important thing to consider is your ability to cool and condense your distillate. You add a lot of heat to your still and that means you must take away lots of that heat to condense the vapors back into a liquid form. It requires a lot of cooling water or some way to chill your condenser.
@@bradosborne5044 Since you don’t have to fill out any paperwork... (At least in my state) It would be interesting to see how this would be legally enforced. I believe the deposit is $50 in my state. It would be EXCEEDINGLY hard to prove cost above $50 for a mass produced keg.(That has been used an indeterminate amount of times) And INFINITELY more difficult to prove chain of possession. Good luck finding a manufacturer and a city/state attorney willing to waste the courts time on litigation. Please post a link of ANY legal action that supports your claim.👍
If your starting out on distilling just get a digiboil or the other 35 ltr boiler and get a turbo 500 condenser or the other brand of boiler and condenser there are small price differences but they do the same job, I have upgraded from the " Airstill " recently to a 65L Digiboil boiler and a Turbo 500 Condenser with the neoprene jacket to hold Temperature slightly Better and use just a little less power over all, the Digiboil 65l cost me $295 and the Turbo 500 Condenser was $395 and the Jacket was $30 ohh and the lid with the 47mm hole to allow for the T500 which is dome shaped costs $30 so for under $800 you have a pretty big still on your hands, I'm not saying it's massive but it's pretty big for the home guy and easy to use after the third time it's all about water flow speed people and when to speed it up or slow it down, I find as would every one else you need to slow speed up of water flow near the end of the run if you want to get that extra bit out, I run two 65L Fermzillas round the clock there never empty there under 15psi of pressure to speed things up with pure turbo yeast and the 48 hr turbo yeast and some DAP BUT I don't use the whole 250gr packet I use 3 teaspoons in some 35c water of around 1lt with 4 teaspoons of sugar and half a teaspoon of DAP in a 2lt beaker wait till the yeast grows for 15 minutes stir the shit out of it to add some more oxygen wait another ten minutes then pitch it in you'll find you can get 5 washes out of 1 packet but if you grow your yeast and wash it in clean water and freeze it you can make one packet last FOREVER, 🔥🇦🇺👍🏻💙
I would also add a 4l airstill if space / water is a problem. They are great for gins flavoured vodka. But best paired with a bigger still for stripping.
I always think that airstills and modified water distilers dont get a fair poke from Jessie, everything he said about his little Chinese still, but more convenient, adn if you're making 100ml cuts, you can be quite effective!
I use stainless beer barrels and 2 inch copper tubing about 1.7 metres high. I have made fittings as a kind of snap lock into the barrels after you remove the ball insert, added a stainless ball valve to a fitting welded at the lower side of the barrel and a threaded thermo controlled heater also to the bottom side, works like a beauty i tried a 2000 watt heater but it was way too twitchy so went for 1500 watts and thanks to some glass bats was a perfect fit
Newbie here. I just got a 4-5 gal still (yea, yea- I know, imperial measurements). I've watched many of your videos these past few days. Entertaining and very informative. Thanks for all the great tips! I hope to get my first mash fermenting this week. Thanks again, and Cheers!
I run a t500 thats been in reflux mode for 3 years, im so glad to finally see some content on how to use it as a pot still with some recipes. Been worried id need to make a massive purchase to start making pot stilled spirits
I made my first one out of a 50L pot. My second one is in the making, a 800L beast for commercial use. In the meantime, i bought one from a chinese supplier tru a brazilian store.
70L still here! (and 2x 200L fermenters to go with it) One thing you forgot to mention is the time and energy that goes into heating the still. If you are going electric there are practical limits, especially if you are using a normal power supply and domestic power outlets. Definitely recommend larger fermenters though, as you often have to use a similar amount of time but get a much larger mash with just a bit more effort.
Hi guys, I'm from Patagonia Argentina (sorry about my english). i'm starting with a 20L equipment. Got some dudes about getting old the spirits. You do it in glass? i reed about the benefit of oak something related to micro oxygen, how it works this on glass?. Thanks a lot for this videos, im realy happy with this new proyect!
My personal setup as I live in a apartment. I have a 25L HDPE jerrycan (dirt cheap) that has a tap lid that I brew in. I add a blow off tube to the tap lid and put that into a jar of water. Also I can just put it onto its side and not worry about using a siphon. I can just use the tap. i.imgur.com/nFyF585.jpg The still I have is a very cheap 4L water air still and use a dimmer switch so it doesn't go above 78°C/172°F. This setup allows me to make 5L of spirits (1L at a time, I dump the first 25ml or a shot glass). Its not fast but it gets the job done for little to no money and its easy to do as it is pretty much automated.
I always say equipment is buy the biggest your dollar can afford and make sure it’s modular. Back in the day I built this homemade rig and it was a pain to use, finally bought a bigger one that’s modular and now if I want something new for it, just buy a new piece.
My stough is mid rainge I have a 13 gallon pot. Im set up ina small apt yes I rent a bedroom for the sole purpose of having a distillery lol im not above selling a jar or two from time to time. But I only charge for the jar the contence is free 😏
Hi,great video,I made my own gin recipe,and my gin brand,do you now how to transfer the 1l gin recipe to 20 liter gin recipe and to 500 l gin recipe? Thank you.
Great video and this would’ve been so helpful starting out. You should do a video on heating and temperature control systems. Not a PID fan I’d rather a potentiometer like yourself. It changed my experience and enjoyment of the craft.
Quick size question- with regards to the volume of material that would be available to you. In theory, I have a vineyard that will produce around 5g/20l of wine. I targeted that amount when I planted it, but the area isn't that great, so the actual amount varies a lot. So if the range of product I would be working with is in the 3-5g/12-20l range, is getting a 5g/20l still the right size? Or would a smaller one be better? Especially if I wanted to "replicate" the Cognac process of stripping and then running it? Your point about doing multiple stripping runs to make one final run with the small still was very noted there.
If the household goes through 3L of vodka per week at 40%ABV what size still do you think we should need in order to be self sufficient? We spend far too much on alcohol due to the extreme taxation
I have a question. It might be a redundant one but here we go. Do you want you mash at the 173 ish degree Fahrenheit or just the vapor in your cap/arm?
Hey man, great video! Question, would it be possible to create a video on the 101 side describing what exactly you need to get started? I'm looking to get into the 20 l still but still unsure about what I need and what I don't.... Thanks!
since the start.. how many stills have you had and or still have??? i have 3 collecting dust since i upgraded .. lol more like ornaments for my man cave.. lol
Running 6 or more noob stills at the same time in a live stream would be awesome. Split it into 3 series, mash, strip, then final run. But bring them all up to temp at the same time so we can have a laugh at you spinning plates.
Hey Jesse, I’m a beginner and looking at starting out. Ive got a 35L Robobrew that I use for beer brewing. They have a pot still attachment that I’m looking at getting as a starting point. Just wondering how you go about distilling your 200L batch in your 50L still. Do you do stripping runs or just do 50L at a time? Cheers
Hey Jesse, I’m like 3 days of UA-cam subscriptions behind but... I would describe my distillate as having a “dry grainy” scent... I’m not good at this.... I suspect this to be heads as the scent was present particularly early, and my homebuilt still experience is... young
I'm considering getting into the hobby, but it is not possible to get a secondhand 50L keg in my area, the only option is ~24L for around $20. Since the DIY part of the keg is the same on a 24L as a 50L would you suggest something completely different? Or just buy a brand new 50L keg for ~165 USD?
Thanks Jesse for all the good info. I hopefully will start fabricating my still early next year - covid pending😔 The materials maybe expensive for a still, but the ingredients are quite cheap. So basically in monetary terms we are paying predominantly for time🤔 So I don't see why I should not make this a hobby.
Something you said doesnt make sense, why are you not as worried about the fermentation process as a beer brewer? Logically speaking, wouldnt you want the best possible wash you can make flavor wise going into the still? Example, If you are going to make a Brandy, would you not want to start with the best wine you could make, one that would be perfectly drinkable without distilling so that you end up with the best tasting brandy you can make on the other end?
I got a 50L keg without a stem on kegland for around 100 bucks, getting a keg from a pub or a supplier isnt as easy as it sounds, forget about getting for free, you gotta steal one otherwise, and if you do yoink one getting the stems out is nearly impossible.
I couldn’t agree more with everything you say here. My first still was a 70L/18 gallon Chinese made with the football shaped onion head and it worked great for my first run of sugar wash but it’s a big time commitment to run that thing. Fortunately I was able to buy a weldless bulkhead tri-clamp fitting and some lid clamps to turn my old 6 gallon home brew pot into an alternative kettle for the same rig. This way I can run all kinds of 5 gallon experiments without having a ten hour commitment to run it.
I think they are beautiful but they don’t have any of the modular options that Jesse suggested. Go with something that uses tri-clamps and you will be modding your still for every function. The alembic is a very expensive one trick pony.
I agree with crap sandviche, beer is so vulnerable to off flavor and you have to keep all paths to infection closed. Washes are less vulnerable and sometimes even benefit from a little funk. I think air locked with some sort of bubbler is always best but for big runs, very large containers that aren’t entirely air tight will suffice if there’s enough positive air pressure from fermentation going on. I try to engineer a lock on improvised fermenters but I don’t sweat it if they aren’t air tight enough to push a bubbler.
Ok, I want to hear specifically from Jesse on this. Other opinions welcome but remember, opinions are like a-holes, everyone has one, some are sweet and others spew nasty shit. If you have a keg still with electric elements and you are going to do a spirit run, how low does the ABV need to be? Since the flame danger is out of the picture we don't have that to worry about. So, is it the higher the abv the faster the run or is there other outstanding concerns? Jesse, what say you mate. I want you thoughts, opinions and expertise.
You're right, there are other concerns :-) the issue is, some other compounds are better isolated, when the initial ethanol concentration doesn't exceed about 25-30%. There are other compounds also, that are removed easier at 55-62%, all that depends on relative volatility. Some people do the spirit run starting with 55%, take out the foreshots/heads after the column stabilisation, then turn off the heating, add water to bring the concentration down to 20% and start the spirit run again. In my parts, it's called "2,5 method".
Also, you don't want your heating elements to be exposed, so you need enough water that once you distill off all the alcohol, they are still covered with some safety margin.
Well I'm a pretty savvy persons and I do get that some of this info maybe lost on some folks be it not quite understanding or being new and just don't know much. But I the spirit of the context of this episode let's assume you done 3 stripping runs and you mow have 14 gals to put in your spirit run. Tyresio12, you are getting into the info in your first comment I am interested in and I would like to see some elaboration on this line of reasoning. Yup if you distilled 100 proof there wouldn't be much left in the pot and burnt out elements is a concern. But there's more to it than that. If this and the fact that 100 proof is hella more volatile than 40 proof fine, this is enough and I'll go with that. I suspect there's more though, like you say.
I've also been under the impression that on a spirit run removing foreshots is not necessary because it essentially have been removed. Yes there is the fact that you never really remove all the methanol and with the higher proof what is left behind would now come off at a higher concentration. I think?.....
Honestly for awhile my passion in the craft came to a halt cuz of not being able to make a proper still cuz I didn't have the tools now I got some tools and a new pot but gotta wait until I can get it a mig weld kit or braze I'd rather weld the bond is stronger I've tried numerous of things don't use jb weld your wasting your time
I'm the only one that enjoys my booze. I've shouted a bit to friends, but people are naturally skeptical and that's a good thing. If the makers taste and smell is not up to par the booze will reflect that. So if your senses are a bit blunt, then don't do it, leave it up to the "supertasters"
Private message me back man 😤 I was going to talk with you and then hopefully we can make something happen... weird meeting terms eh lol just gimme a time to talk k thnx Kirk KAPELUK Ontario Canada
It’s not a dig at your personality. but you got to slow down on the Pillsberry doughboy laughs. love your videos but they make it hard to watch it doesn’t seem genuine. no offence don’t wanna be that guy
Jessie! When are you going to finish the trim on the right of that shelf> :D
just DO IT!
:D
I’m thinking of sending Jesse a piece of 2 x 1 timber so he can do it, as it drives me mad too 😂
Hahaha i've also pondered that question!
necessarily @jock
I've made the same comment before. My eyes are drawn to it.
A motorcycle jack makes moving large fermenters.... plausible. I got mine from Horrible Freight.
Good idea
The first time I read this I thought it said "motorcycle jacket." I pictured a guy putting on a biker jacket just to move his still around.
I bought a brand new keg for 120 dollars and built a great 15.5 gallon reflux still. I can run reflux or run as pot still. Im using a 2000 watt low density heater element. All stainless steel. Using a variable controller.works great and very fun.
Brovo !! 40 yrs ago I started with a pressure cooker turn into a still. The migrated to a 5gal pot still to a 10 to a 20 gal to a 30 gal now. Like you've said 10 gallon an above you can't move till it's drained. Copperstill co. Makes a super still you don't need wrenches to take apart or put together. Pot stills only.
So an idea for using big fermentation barrels, go to a garden store and buy those trolleys ya can put a large pot plant on so you can manoeuvre your fermentation barrel/buckets with ease or if your handy on the tools build 1 with weight rated casters.
After I built a POC pot still and knew I wanted into the hobby I built a 50L keggle with a 2" CCVM out of 200mm tri-clamp pipes and while sometimes for smaller stripping run's I am looking at a 20L keg setup I mostly am happy with everything i'm glad to didn't start smaller as i would be to limited as i like to run two 20L wash's at a time.
9:18 And there really easy to "pickup" ;) - No joke i just went to a local brewer and after asking me what i wanted it for they gave it me and said have fun!
Great info. Appreciate you mentioning the keg ownership issue.
I have one for 1 gallon and one for 5.
The 1 gallon is also good for second + distillation.
Just wanted to say I started my research with your channel and now I am going back through it now that I have a much better understanding....can't wait to start chasing the craft
If you’re not into pumps to move your product around a 30 liter kettle is about the limit if you want to lift it full. My rule is no more than 85% full gives you 24 liters of capacity. I use a 10 gallon cooler mash tun and when making high gravity ferments I have about 24 liters of wash to ferment, and that fits in a plastic bucket. 20 liters into the still. In America we are limited to about 15 amps at 115 volts unless you have access to 220 volts. With limited power I can heat up my still, run my product and be done in a day.So ask yourself: what can I lift, how much power do I have, and how much time do I have to make a run? Cheers!
Love my 50litre keg set up based on ur design of a design from someone else’s 👌I also don’t drink much either but have plenty of different all grain product just stashed away on wood mellowing out,thanks for all that you do 👍
Thanks Jessie. I almost stopped distilling because I started with a pot still that could take 80l of wash. I like the way you explain the reason for size.
To move around your mash consider putting a dolly under it. I have taken off the rug and filled in the middle with wood. works really well up to 50 gal or so.
I don't drink much of what I make, but it's fun mashing in & waiting to see what you have after distilling it..Shine on fellas...
I was hopping this would be a video on still more then boiler size. Can you talk more on the difference on times from a 8 down to 4,3,or 2 in column?
do you have an answer to this yet
No I have not gotten a answer
I started on a 15L still and I totally agree with using something that size first. You can make mistakes, tweak your recipes, etc. for much less money and headache. I now have a 75L but use my 15L for experimental runs.
I start with Bucket in Bucket still. After I take a look at plans published in the Internet. 10 Liters pot and 60 cm column and 40 cm of cooler was chosen. After I start a hunt for pipes, fittings, gas burner, all the soldering things. It was long process - about 3 months to make it all. But the hardest of all was to adjust everything... It takes 3 years. Something like that.
Love the content, and to anybody reading this take Jesse seriously on the size I started with 130 as a still ......minimum run I can do is 50L
One very important thing to consider is your ability to cool and condense your distillate. You add a lot of heat to your still and that means you must take away lots of that heat to condense the vapors back into a liquid form. It requires a lot of cooling water or some way to chill your condenser.
I'm hoping the 8 gallon I finally ordered and am waiting on will be perrrrrfect 😉
Here in America you have to put a deposit on the kegs return.
So technically if you don’t want your deposit back...
You own it.
Cheers.😊🥃
Mick, Not true. The deposit does not cover the cost of the keg. It's still considered theft. The deposit is just there to keep honest people, Honest.
@@bradosborne5044
Since you don’t have to fill out any paperwork...
(At least in my state)
It would be interesting to see how this would be legally enforced.
I believe the deposit is $50 in my state.
It would be EXCEEDINGLY hard to prove cost above $50 for a mass produced keg.(That has been used an indeterminate amount of times)
And INFINITELY more difficult to prove chain of possession.
Good luck finding a manufacturer and a city/state attorney willing to waste the courts time on litigation.
Please post a link of ANY legal action that supports your claim.👍
If your starting out on distilling just get a digiboil or the other 35 ltr boiler and get a turbo 500 condenser or the other brand of boiler and condenser there are small price differences but they do the same job, I have upgraded from the " Airstill " recently to a 65L Digiboil boiler and a Turbo 500 Condenser with the neoprene jacket to hold Temperature slightly Better and use just a little less power over all, the Digiboil 65l cost me $295 and the Turbo 500 Condenser was $395 and the Jacket was $30 ohh and the lid with the 47mm hole to allow for the T500 which is dome shaped costs $30 so for under $800 you have a pretty big still on your hands, I'm not saying it's massive but it's pretty big for the home guy and easy to use after the third time it's all about water flow speed people and when to speed it up or slow it down, I find as would every one else you need to slow speed up of water flow near the end of the run if you want to get that extra bit out, I run two 65L Fermzillas round the clock there never empty there under 15psi of pressure to speed things up with pure turbo yeast and the 48 hr turbo yeast and some DAP BUT I don't use the whole 250gr packet I use 3 teaspoons in some 35c water of around 1lt with 4 teaspoons of sugar and half a teaspoon of DAP in a 2lt beaker wait till the yeast grows for 15 minutes stir the shit out of it to add some more oxygen wait another ten minutes then pitch it in you'll find you can get 5 washes out of 1 packet but if you grow your yeast and wash it in clean water and freeze it you can make one packet last FOREVER, 🔥🇦🇺👍🏻💙
I started with a 2.5gal still and it was too small. Now I’m on an 8gal (30.3L). 8gal is perfect for me as a home distiller.
I got a digiboil with reflux, and bubble plate and site glass Wish I would have went with a keg setup ...
I would also add a 4l airstill if space / water is a problem. They are great for gins flavoured vodka. But best paired with a bigger still for stripping.
I always think that airstills and modified water distilers dont get a fair poke from Jessie, everything he said about his little Chinese still, but more convenient, adn if you're making 100ml cuts, you can be quite effective!
Beer keg. Ss column parts. All in about 1k. But... I am a welder and fabricator. Its probably said and done worth twice my investment. Cheers
I use stainless beer barrels and 2 inch copper tubing about 1.7 metres high. I have made fittings as a kind of snap lock into the barrels after you remove the ball insert, added a stainless ball valve to a fitting welded at the lower side of the barrel and a threaded thermo controlled heater also to the bottom side, works like a beauty i tried a 2000 watt heater but it was way too twitchy so went for 1500 watts and thanks to some glass bats was a perfect fit
Newbie here. I just got a 4-5 gal still (yea, yea- I know, imperial measurements). I've watched many of your videos these past few days. Entertaining and very informative. Thanks for all the great tips! I hope to get my first mash fermenting this week. Thanks again, and Cheers!
You sir! Are the beard of knowledge!
Great video thanks for the information. It settled some buyers remorse. Peace love and chase on.
Jesse i think it would be great to make some more product reviews/tutorials on different products.
I run a t500 thats been in reflux mode for 3 years, im so glad to finally see some content on how to use it as a pot still with some recipes. Been worried id need to make a massive purchase to start making pot stilled spirits
I thought Jesse was putting in a video up on pot still mode but I have yet to find it looking forward to that 1 Jesse if you see this mate
I made my first one out of a 50L pot. My second one is in the making, a 800L beast for commercial use. In the meantime, i bought one from a chinese supplier tru a brazilian store.
70L still here! (and 2x 200L fermenters to go with it)
One thing you forgot to mention is the time and energy that goes into heating the still. If you are going electric there are practical limits, especially if you are using a normal power supply and domestic power outlets.
Definitely recommend larger fermenters though, as you often have to use a similar amount of time but get a much larger mash with just a bit more effort.
Fermentersize ! I'd sign up for those classes
Would love to see a video on the Clawhammer still! I've been eyeing that one for a while now!
can you do video of a run on the claw hammer reflux still?
Can you do a video about overheating?
How to prevent?
My alcohol is not boiling anymore but wants to make boom
Brewhaus also in the US great people
Hi guys, I'm from Patagonia Argentina (sorry about my english). i'm starting with a 20L equipment. Got some dudes about getting old the spirits. You do it in glass? i reed about the benefit of oak something related to micro oxygen, how it works this on glass?. Thanks a lot for this videos, im realy happy with this new proyect!
My personal setup as I live in a apartment. I have a 25L HDPE jerrycan (dirt cheap) that has a tap lid that I brew in. I add a blow off tube to the tap lid and put that into a jar of water. Also I can just put it onto its side and not worry about using a siphon. I can just use the tap.
i.imgur.com/nFyF585.jpg
The still I have is a very cheap 4L water air still and use a dimmer switch so it doesn't go above 78°C/172°F. This setup allows me to make 5L of spirits (1L at a time, I dump the first 25ml or a shot glass). Its not fast but it gets the job done for little to no money and its easy to do as it is pretty much automated.
I always say equipment is buy the biggest your dollar can afford and make sure it’s modular. Back in the day I built this homemade rig and it was a pain to use, finally bought a bigger one that’s modular and now if I want something new for it, just buy a new piece.
Excellent advice.
In a way it's like asking a mechanic how many wrenches he needs.
The answer is ,well what are you going to do?
My stough is mid rainge I have a 13 gallon pot. Im set up ina small apt yes I rent a bedroom for the sole purpose of having a distillery lol im not above selling a jar or two from time to time. But I only charge for the jar the contence is free 😏
Hi,great video,I made my own gin recipe,and my gin brand,do you now how to transfer the 1l gin recipe to 20 liter gin recipe and to 500 l gin recipe?
Thank you.
Great video and this would’ve been so helpful starting out. You should do a video on heating and temperature control systems. Not a PID fan I’d rather a potentiometer like yourself. It changed my experience and enjoyment of the craft.
400 GALLONS WORKS FOR ME ... THEN AGAIN, THATS HOW I ROLL!
holly shit... you gotta be on acreage.. ?? that size is bigger than my entire distilling room, im sure.. lol
Waiting on my first still from mile hi, 8 gallon
I have an 8gal from them, been great so far.
@@tenntech40 how long did it take to get after purchasing?
@@bwolf859 oh like 2 months. They were really behind last year when I ordered mine.
Quick size question- with regards to the volume of material that would be available to you. In theory, I have a vineyard that will produce around 5g/20l of wine. I targeted that amount when I planted it, but the area isn't that great, so the actual amount varies a lot.
So if the range of product I would be working with is in the 3-5g/12-20l range, is getting a 5g/20l still the right size? Or would a smaller one be better? Especially if I wanted to "replicate" the Cognac process of stripping and then running it? Your point about doing multiple stripping runs to make one final run with the small still was very noted there.
What is the reasonable minimum amount you can run in your 50L keg still?
old saying...
what ever you smoke, drop or rub on your belly it's your thing.
no right or wrong just what works for you.
If the household goes through 3L of vodka per week at 40%ABV what size still do you think we should need in order to be self sufficient?
We spend far too much on alcohol due to the extreme taxation
I have a question. It might be a redundant one but here we go. Do you want you mash at the 173 ish degree Fahrenheit or just the vapor in your cap/arm?
Hey man, great video! Question, would it be possible to create a video on the 101 side describing what exactly you need to get started? I'm looking to get into the 20 l still but still unsure about what I need and what I don't.... Thanks!
I'd say it depends on the size of the pole barn.
since the start.. how many stills have you had and or still have??? i have 3 collecting dust since i upgraded .. lol more like ornaments for my man cave.. lol
Running 6 or more noob stills at the same time in a live stream would be awesome. Split it into 3 series, mash, strip, then final run. But bring them all up to temp at the same time so we can have a laugh at you spinning plates.
Hey Jesse, I’m a beginner and looking at starting out. Ive got a 35L Robobrew that I use for beer brewing. They have a pot still attachment that I’m looking at getting as a starting point. Just wondering how you go about distilling your 200L batch in your 50L still. Do you do stripping runs or just do 50L at a time? Cheers
Great vid Jesse, just to chip in: 50L keg boiler can limit your column height compared to say a 30L because of ceiling heights if distilling indoors.
Hey Jesse,
I’m like 3 days of UA-cam subscriptions behind but...
I would describe my distillate as having a “dry grainy” scent... I’m not good at this....
I suspect this to be heads as the scent was present particularly early, and my homebuilt still experience is... young
I have a large keg here when I work out how to disassemble it and have like 19L of product,
Til then, I’m using a 3L pressure cooker
Did I say 19? 50 might be more appropriate...
Hi Jessie When running a still in reflux mode what proof do you stop at? Or do you still make cuts unless your doing a stripping run?
I'm considering getting into the hobby, but it is not possible to get a secondhand 50L keg in my area, the only option is ~24L for around $20.
Since the DIY part of the keg is the same on a 24L as a 50L would you suggest something completely different? Or just buy a brand new 50L keg for ~165 USD?
Thanks Jesse for all the good info. I hopefully will start fabricating my still early next year - covid pending😔 The materials maybe expensive for a still, but the ingredients are quite cheap. So basically in monetary terms we are paying predominantly for time🤔 So I don't see why I should not make this a hobby.
Something you said doesnt make sense, why are you not as worried about the fermentation process as a beer brewer? Logically speaking, wouldnt you want the best possible wash you can make flavor wise going into the still?
Example, If you are going to make a Brandy, would you not want to start with the best wine you could make, one that would be perfectly drinkable without distilling so that you end up with the best tasting brandy you can make on the other end?
I got a 50L keg without a stem on kegland for around 100 bucks, getting a keg from a pub or a supplier isnt as easy as it sounds, forget about getting for free, you gotta steal one otherwise, and if you do yoink one getting the stems out is nearly impossible.
30 tp 50 litres is a good start.
I couldn’t agree more with everything you say here. My first still was a 70L/18 gallon Chinese made with the football shaped onion head and it worked great for my first run of sugar wash but it’s a big time commitment to run that thing. Fortunately I was able to buy a weldless bulkhead tri-clamp fitting and some lid clamps to turn my old 6 gallon home brew pot into an alternative kettle for the same rig. This way I can run all kinds of 5 gallon experiments without having a ten hour commitment to run it.
How big of a colum can you run a 50L keg with two 2000 watt heating elements?
A good sized column about 1 meter high and 63mm (2.5") or 75mm (3") copper is the best and easy to solder with lead-free solder.
👍👍👍❤️ from uk 🤙
Anyone have any thoughts/experience on Portuguese copper alembic stills?
I think they are beautiful but they don’t have any of the modular options that Jesse suggested. Go with something that uses tri-clamps and you will be modding your still for every function. The alembic is a very expensive one trick pony.
Does spanish ones help?
thats interesting,, none of your fermenters are air locked,,,,, why not ?? whats the difference between a beer and a mash fermenting??
You have some leeway with washes versus beer. I think in another video Jessie said he like his mashes to start souring...
I agree with crap sandviche, beer is so vulnerable to off flavor and you have to keep all paths to infection closed. Washes are less vulnerable and sometimes even benefit from a little funk. I think air locked with some sort of bubbler is always best but for big runs, very large containers that aren’t entirely air tight will suffice if there’s enough positive air pressure from fermentation going on. I try to engineer a lock on improvised fermenters but I don’t sweat it if they aren’t air tight enough to push a bubbler.
Still Turbo 500 😅
I have 120 litres of wash to distill and a 25 litre boiler......yes size matters lol ☹
Size doesn't matter. 😀
I snagged a 50 ltr from a poor keg destined for keg heaven as it wouldn't retain the spear correctly. Some man's rubbish.... 😄
🥃🥃🥃
Ok, I want to hear specifically from Jesse on this. Other opinions welcome but remember, opinions are like a-holes, everyone has one, some are sweet and others spew nasty shit. If you have a keg still with electric elements and you are going to do a spirit run, how low does the ABV need to be? Since the flame danger is out of the picture we don't have that to worry about. So, is it the higher the abv the faster the run or is there other outstanding concerns? Jesse, what say you mate. I want you thoughts, opinions and expertise.
You're right, there are other concerns :-) the issue is, some other compounds are better isolated, when the initial ethanol concentration doesn't exceed about 25-30%. There are other compounds also, that are removed easier at 55-62%, all that depends on relative volatility. Some people do the spirit run starting with 55%, take out the foreshots/heads after the column stabilisation, then turn off the heating, add water to bring the concentration down to 20% and start the spirit run again. In my parts, it's called "2,5 method".
Also, you don't want your heating elements to be exposed, so you need enough water that once you distill off all the alcohol, they are still covered with some safety margin.
Well I'm a pretty savvy persons and I do get that some of this info maybe lost on some folks be it not quite understanding or being new and just don't know much. But I the spirit of the context of this episode let's assume you done 3 stripping runs and you mow have 14 gals to put in your spirit run.
Tyresio12, you are getting into the info in your first comment I am interested in
and I would like to see some elaboration on this line of reasoning. Yup if you distilled 100 proof there wouldn't be much left in the pot and burnt out elements is a concern. But there's more to it than that. If this and the fact that 100 proof is hella more volatile than 40 proof fine, this is enough and I'll go with that. I suspect there's more though, like you say.
I've also been under the impression that on a spirit run removing foreshots is not necessary because it essentially have been removed. Yes there is the fact that you never really remove all the methanol and with the higher proof what is left behind would now come off at a higher concentration. I think?.....
Honestly for awhile my passion in the craft came to a halt cuz of not being able to make a proper still cuz I didn't have the tools now I got some tools and a new pot but gotta wait until I can get it a mig weld kit or braze I'd rather weld the bond is stronger I've tried numerous of things don't use jb weld your wasting your time
I'm the only one that enjoys my booze. I've shouted a bit to friends, but people are naturally skeptical and that's a good thing. If the makers taste and smell is not up to par the booze will reflect that. So if your senses are a bit blunt, then don't do it, leave it up to the "supertasters"
How much booze do you want..
me: Yes
Big. Correct?
T-500 owner....
Bigger is better till 30000l
88th
Fith lol
I'm an alcoholic no one is going to question if ill consume it all.
Private message me back man 😤 I was going to talk with you and then hopefully we can make something happen... weird meeting terms eh lol just gimme a time to talk k thnx Kirk KAPELUK Ontario Canada
Seriously though 😂
Every woman out there: "I'd say 9 inches is good"
Ask your wife she will tell ya it does.he he
It’s not a dig at your personality.
but you got to slow down on the Pillsberry doughboy laughs. love your videos but they make it hard to watch it doesn’t seem genuine. no offence don’t wanna be that guy