Boobytrap breadboard from China.
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- I was using this piece of breadboard for choosing component values for a simple circuit. I'd bought it some time back from a typical Chinese ebay seller.
While testing the circuit I just couldn't get it to work. I double and triple checked all the connections and swapped components, but it still didn't work. It was only when I actually started metering it out that I discovered that the breadboard does not have continuous bus strips at the top and bottom. Instead they are divided into three sections each with no markings on the front to indicate that.
that's a sliced Bread Board 😉
Go to bed
You win.....
Groan.
You guys got this recommendation this week?
@@thamizhansurya8519 you can't even cook some toast the right way...
That explains it! I have four of those SYB120 breadboards in a long line on my tele-tennis pong project. I had so many problems with the power strips, I eventually linked most of the 5-hole segments together (which turned them into 3-hole segments, of course). Then I started removing links to see if they were really needed. Finally, I marked the breaks with a red felt-tip dot. But it never occurred to me that the breaks were symetrical and in the same place on all 4 boards. Duh!!
Yeah. Takes you by surprise when you're not expecting it. I managed to connect a super simple circuit right at a break point so one side of the circuit was powered and the other wasn't.
They may be done that way so that you can have different supply voltages on different parts of the rail. ie. a 5V section and a 12V section. ??
I've come across it too. Dashed annoying that it's not marked on top.
New to channel, but already I can't help hearing Clive's voice in my head when I read his comments
@@MS-ho9wq LOL. My brother, who knows nothing about electronics or electricity always watches Clive before going to bed, because of his soothing voice😉.
Interesting. In highschool we had these over a decade ago. I would guess that they were designed for circuts that had more than two sets of reference voltages. I pretty much guarantee this was intentional.
I have several breadboards like that. They were mad that way intentionally. Mine even have small tabs on the front to show where the breaks are. Lets you have more than 4 buss bars/voltages. can be handy for more complex circuits.
Yes, not very familiar with the various designs, but thought right away that this could make it more useful.
I have one of them, too. Mine just have small black lines on top showing where the breaks are in the Vcc bus bars. I did not realize they were like that when I purchased them, but now I like them when I am doing a circuit with 2 or more different voltages required.
Basically, the problem isn't that the wiring is wrong, it's that it's not clearly marked on the front. All of my breadboards are like that but it's clearly marked so you can see where the gaps are.
Makes sense and yet when you buy expecting one thing and get another that's not good.
yes, i have seen and had it the special breadboard like this but it usually have a mark or two, if someone getting this type of breadboard but without any mark it could be defective product / rejected product that someone sold it again as is. this is same as a fuse without any mark, in 50 of cheapo fuse there is usually 2-7 fuse without any mark, because they use both same end cap rather than different end cap with mark
I've seen this before, but never on a board that wasn't clearly marked. They're probably just ripping off another breadboard design for the metal components but with a cheaper manufactured plastic without the proper markings.
I think that's useful, and all they really needed to do was MARK that fact on the top
I agree! As noob, I was ordering cheap boards from China and quickly came to realize the difference between the bare bones cheapest boards and ones that s cost a dollar or 2 more ... the cheapest boards had no markings, but if I was willing to pay just a bit more I could get nice, properly marked boards.
@@disqusmacabre6246 and expensive boards last longer and can handle higher load
Well, think of it this way: You can do three voltages on one board.
Btw, Chinese companies also make things that their own market demands. Perhaps Chinese engineers prefer breadboards like these.
@@buckrogers5331 how would you know where the breaks are though?
@@leavewe What I know is that Chinese engineers and manufacturers work at speed and may have overlooked marking the boards. Or that the middle man is clueless too.
If you don't waste time, with a unmarked board, like me. I learned the first time, but it pissed me off the first time too! It should be marked on the top of the board, and on the package. Otherwise it's cheap crap, and some places mark up cheap crap, to throw people off.
That's why I missed my old electronic stores. Looking at the product in your hand before you buy it, was better than ordering online, THEN finding out its crap. Older products like those project boards were made better, than what we have now, as far as I am concerned.
You can still have 2 separate voltages running on the above boards' bus bars. Sure it's 33% less but at least you don't need a bunch of jumpers.
And in my opinion the board on the top is much more visually appealing.
It's not an uncommon arrangement, multiple busses if you want to use them like that, or link across for a single.
More annoying problem is that the bars are quite easy to push out when inserting a thicker pin, a solid back would help.
I have the same crappy thing, too. I have linked it via solder bridges. In my version there are small noses on these strips that links them together - sometimes. :D It's just press-fit and does not always make contact. So I soldered it together and put a thin wood plate under it, screwing it tight.
Most of mine are the same, and some of them came from Maplin etc. It's normal, I'd be surprised if I bought breadboard and it wasn't like that.
mojochan The main issue here is that it was not marked on the top. I've had a look at some older breadboards and the busses are divided, but marked as so with broken lines.
+bigclivedotcom it is marked on the top - the one which is continuous is marked by a continuous line. The ones without the continuous line are usually broken.
The one I have from like a decade ago has the power rails split in the middle, it can prove to be more useful that way.
Exactly!
I have seen this on other breadboards before. Fortunately they are the type with the coloured stripes indicating the bussing so it was fairly obvious. On an unmarked board though? Pure evil.
Actually new thought. The front of this board has NO silkscreening whatsoever. Anyone else think it may have actually been intended to have such printing but it was left off as a "cost cutting" measure?
I totally agree, totally evil! 😦😳🤯👹
I've had a breadboard like that for a long time. They've been sold in US electronics shops forever. Mine has colored lines with corresponding breaks on the component side. It's handy for circuits that use multiple voltages. When I don't need that, I just put in a short jumper across the breaks.
I liked your description of it as a "SPESHUL PBTBPPTBPT" breadboard in the resined-flashlight video.
I only got involved in electronics about 8 years ago. I've always purchased my breadboards via ebay or similar and figured that, even if the seller is shipping from a US address, that the boards were sourced from China. Every single board I own is configured like this. When I was just starting, I puzzled over this for a bit then decided that this was done so the the board could support multiple voltages simultaneously (e.g. 3.3v 5v) or even a small section with low voltage AC. If I need more than 1/3rd of a full size board for a project, I simply jumper the two (or 3) sections together where each rails are broken.
I was very surprised by you not knowing this. I have learned a ton from you (most thankful for the pointer on what NOT to do). You are, in every way, far more knowledgeable, far more experienced, far more seasoned than me. It just didn't make sense that would know anything about electronics that you hadn't mastered years ago. So I'm thinking that this 'Chinese configuration of a breadboard is something relatively new and in the past, breadboards manufactured in the US or the UK did not split the power rails into sections. Correct?
Is normal. Or at least: The ones I have from 25 years ago (local store, pre-ebay) also has this.
+cybermaus Yes, but actually marked on the top with lines.
+bigclivedotcom I used to buy these in bulk and resell them, I still have several of these left. They are all the same, and as far as I know, it's intentional.
+bigclivedotcom So they saved money on silk screen printing
Nil ByMouth The one I have had the diagram on the packaging not the breadboard. Splitting up a pack of 5 and selling one by one would loose the docs.
69 likes
I bought some of those on purpose to have half on 3.3v half on 5v but they where clearly marked.
Probably "Cribbage Board" didn't get translated properly.
Thank you youtube algorithm for showing me this random video, was very interesting.
I purchased Archer breadboards from Radio Shack back in the day that had a gap in middle. That's why I appreciate the boards that have lines, because I have seen those with breaks as well.
But it's actually a good thing. You can use different voltages across the board, you can test galvanically isolated circuits on the same board. I don't understand why you would want to permanently tie all those rails together.
+Cristi Neagu Indeed. It's probably done for a purpose. One of my breadboards also has a break in the middle to allow it to be used for different circuits running at different voltages or even from different power sources. If you need to use it for 1 big circuit, then you can easily link them together, which is much easier than breaking the connectors apart. It's properly displayed on the front of the breadboard in my case though.
+Cristi Neagu Yeah, you only get a single row down each side rather than dual rows with the "traditional" breadboard. So if you want to run 2 different voltages, you can supply them from different ends. With the traditional breadboard, you can run a different voltage rail down each side. Nothing wrong with the design, it's just different (some markings on the breadboard would be nice though).
+Cristi Neagu At least they could have specified that in the description. If I buy a shovel and I get a hammer I will be pissed off even if the hammer can be useful. I wasent buying a hammer.
Ola K Fair enough. But if you didn't have the option to return the hammer, you would probably keep it instead of trying to turn it into a shovel, if you know what i mean.
+Cristi Neagu picturearchive.gunauction.com/3384140413/11030963/shovel1.JPG Did i do it wrong?
I remember in my tech school we had like 4 or 5 different types of breadboards. these were one of the styles we had. Ours however all had the power rails labeled on the front properly to identify which ones were solid and which had "zones" (that's what the screen print said). I always just figured they were specifically made so that you could have isolated circuits on a single board or multiple voltages. We also had ones that came with built in jumpers from one side to the other for the power rails, as well as breadboards without any power rails at all.
Some breadboards were made like that for logic and analog designs. I have one bought decades ago. the only thing missing is the marking on the top. This allows ground, 5 v logic, + and - 15V for opamps, and +/- 24V for power amplifiers, sensors, etc.
I have ordered and used multi-rail bread boards, very useful when using digital and analog circuits especially for RF work, Respectfully, Dennis, KV4WM
Radioshack made breadboards that had these breaks along the bus where you would put jumpers across. It might be an american standard that is starting to show up elsewhere, but all the breadboards I've ever used, even those mounted on steel plates with nice banana plug/screwdowns did this.
The breaks are usually pretty clearly marked on a good breadboard, and it's also a good place to put current limiting into the bus and running your circuitry down the line more. Or you can have parallel power bus, or make series bus to get more than one voltage if need be. But this is actually what I'm used to using.
I have a cheap breadboard that introduced so much resistance that the small audio player I was testing with would reboot due to undervolting and would pull way too much current. Learned my lesson there.
Packages from china are like christmas surprise. I love open of those.
Yes they are. And sometimes it's Christmas every day when the post arrives.
bigclivedotcom Have the exact same two boards. My white one is also broken on the power bus lines. I had not used it for a while and completely forgotten about the design and so did a fair bit of head scratching before realising what was going on... again.
It's funny how UA-cam recommends these older videos to me; even crazier, this is one I've never watched! I thought I had devoured the entire Big Clive channel already.
To be fair. There are quite a lot to get through.
We just got these on a foundation year electronics engineering degree course *sigh* was frustrating.
I got some of those, drove me nuts trying to figure out why things didn't work, so I vivisected one and found the exact same thing.
I actually found it useful for a few projects where I was using multiple voltages and needed a bus for each voltage.
I remember similar boards, U.S. made, that had segmented bus bars, unmarked, in 1978. The purpose was to allow multiple supply voltages in mixed designs, letting you put your logic on one section and your analog circuit on another. As I recall I installed jumpers across the gaps when I needed the same supply across the full length. I seem to remember only one gap though, in the middle. Two busses on each side as your upper board shows.
My first prototype board of some 40 years ago had two rails at the top and two rails at the bottom. All four rails were broken in the middle making 8 rails total. Back then, there were no conventions.
I still have one of those, obtained in the 80s, purchased from my local Radio Shack (upstate NY in the US). No markings at all on the plastic, exactly like yours. And I have to make the bridges if I want the same voltage down the length of it. The plastic board is attached to a very stiff piece of painted sheet metal that has three banana plug sockets screwed into it. No electrical connection from the sockets to anything else. I eventually figured out the sockets are for your bench power supply, but I still don't know how to connect the sockets to the board. While the plastic is unlabeled, the sheet metal has an Archer brand label on it, which I believe was a Radio Shack house brand, like Tandy and Realistic. It came with a transparent plastic case with different sized compartments. Each compartment had stiff solid core hookup wire, with insulation trimmed back on either end, bent to fit into and lie flat on the breadboard. It's somewhat miraculous that I still have the case and wire, too, as the case is that old hard brittle plastic.
This is just one of the many many empirical discoveries that might hint toward the career of electrical engineering. I remember being puzzled by this at the age of 9 when I used my first non-Radio Shack breadboard. Nothing on the right side worked. :)
Had a breadboard like this, except it was like the sections of 5 in the top board that needed to be bridged. It was written in the instructions, but it was still an incomprehensible pain in the proverbial
I bought a breadboard like the top one you show. With the red and blue busses. It has continuous strips. I bought another, identical in looks, and it has a split in the middle of each bus, so the busses are each in two halves. This had me foxed for quite a while until I sussed it.
I have some of those breadboards. I usually wind up putting little red jumper wires across gaps on one side and black ones on the other. Since there is no + - marking the jumpers also serve to remind me of polarity. I actually like the extra configuration options this design allows. I had the same experience the first time, and was also surprised to find it set up like that.
Just found your channel. I like your style sir.
Cake is on the way.
They also manufacture shorter breadboards, the one I got from RadioShack in '87 needed jumpers. The kit version has instructions to put the jumpers in. The whole point is that you can make your power controller at one end and build the rest of the circuit. So 12v battery into a regulator circuit, regulated power to the operating circuit then something like a sensor on the last circuit. The blue and red lines on your deluxe indicate that the conduction goes the whole length as a single circuit.
The very first Breadboard I had, was like this. Many years ago when I was first learning electronics and took a while to learn to place a jumper so the buss bar would be complete across. For a new student just learn, such a breadboard can ruin the confidence of the new budding student. This video reminded me of my very first experience with a Breadboard that I bought from Radio Shack / Tandy where my first circuit was wired correctly but frustrating of why it was not working. Again, a very bad start-up experience for a new student.
I encountered a similar puzzle using these, until I found out about the split rails. I actually find it quite useful now for example if I have different parts of a circuit working from differing supply voltages or want to add in some extra supply filtering for a sensitive part of a circuit. Also compared with the other type of breadboard shown in Clives video I found these ones more reliable and durable. For clarification both types were bought from Chinese eBay sellers.
I got the same thing above. It's from a 2000+ pcs set for only 50 euro's, a nice deal from a UK seller on ebay, saves time and effort to order components seperately.
I’m pretty sure those breadboards were designed for the university I went to, we had heaps of them and they caused no end of confusion, however they were excellent at teaching problem solving skills and discouraging assumption making.
It reminds me of all the first year students trying to use diodes manufactured by Taiwan Semiconductor (their logo is a ‘S’ shaped diode and of course it’s backwards on the diode).
I've got a breadboard I bought in the late 90s which has this exact arrangement - it is marked on the front of the board though with little Ws in the gaps.
'WishBoard... So called cause you wish it would work !!!!
breadboards are called breadboards cos early electronics hobbyists would literally use the wooden board they had for cutting bread on as a circuit board, with screws or nails put in it for point to point/turret construction of the circuit
i spose a lot of ppl would already know that but I thought it was nice when I found out where the name came from
0yeme0 that's how I started to learn circuitry actually
At school lab we had continuous and split bus type breadboard, it's not a factory defect, but the split line is marked, great for having both ac and dc on the same board but different bus bar sections
I remember using bigger version of that in school. Had to bridge from one to another. But i remember it being handy when having several voltage types on one board. Allso we did something with lights and three oscelation connections were it was handy!
I have some older breadboards - not made in China - that are longer than most breadboards. I have a couple that have three stacked top to bottom and in those cases the buses do have a break in the middle. Just in the middle though and not in three different places. I just drop jumper wires on them and forget about it. They aren't marked per se, but there is a larger gap between them and the regular bus. It's like it skips a mount point in the middle. You can definitely tell with a visual inspection something is different, but they aren't marked in any way. These are 15-20 year old breadboards in some cases.
A broken breadboard is a quick way to sunder confidence in electronics knowhow, as I learned to my cost. Was checking and rechecking solder joints I had made on breakout boards, swapping components left and right, thinking I got a bad batch of optoisolators/diodes/mosfets, buying from a totally different supplier, still running into problems left and right and things would work sometimes and not others. Finally bought a new breadboard and, oh look, everything is working like it was supposed to from the start.
title had me thinking the power buses were gonna be wired to the middle lol
I have Ebay breadboards like that, but they were marked. I have also had similar issues with cracked bus bars. I just soldered a wire from one end to the other and onto each section. No problems at all except that I had to take them out of the breadboard to not melt the plastic while soldering and then put them back in again.
I've got the top one with the little power supply and for a 'my first breadboard kit' it's quite nice. You can jumper some connections to have either 3.3v or 5v on either side.
Used these at A level electronics. The more expensive ones we had were reserved for the brighter students, luckily I was one of those students. 40/40 on course work all those years ago.
Made a multi-tone door bell if you're wondering.
All my first breadboards from the eighties were broke in the middle of both buss bars that was standard. It wasn't until 2004 that I started seeing breadboards with proper power rails
That's exactly how the one I bought from Radio Shack as a kid was. Similar plastic and screw holes too. I think it's an intentional design, to be honest. Useful for certain things like multiple voltages or even I/O buses, just not the common design we're used to these days.
Yes,seen this a few times,had to work it out myself, but just link across and all is fine.
Usual problem is just weak connections giving dodgy connections,but I love prototyping, and breadboards are great.
Clive keep up the good work,very informative, and entertaining.
My first breadboard in Japan came this way (it came with pins to bridge the gaps if you needed a single rail), though the breaks in the bus bars were well marked and documented on the packaging. I couldn't have guessed this at the time, but I now suspect the reason was for multiple voltage buses (e.g. 3.3V & 12V). Certainly after your disassembly, it looks like the six discrete buses would have been costlier than having a single pair, so I doubt it was to save a few yuan. There's 120 terminal strips on that breadboard (same as mine), so its not unreasonable to imagine a simple multi-voltage project fitting easily on one breadboard.
or it could be intended as for split power supplies.
if you want to have a + 5 and - 5 and 3.3 rail you could
It's so you can have seperate voltage supplies in different parts of the board.
You can have 3.3v, 5v & 12v sections for different purposes.
Its actually kind of common in older bread boards. Its so you could run dual voltages for analog circuits. op amps for example. Its also easy to test optically isolated circuits on them.
I have an older Radio Shack experimenters breadboard made like that one and I actually prefer the material it's made out of instead of the newer plastic ones. I'd like to get some more of the ones like this one and I can solder wires like you suggested.
I had one of these many years ago; with one important difference.
It was VERY obvious that it was three little ones stuck end to end.
NB: I _think_ mine came with the bus-bar jumpers
I have one similar to this. It's useful if you're working with voltage regulators, you could have one bus bar as unregulated, another as 5 volts, and another as 3.3 volts, for example.
I have seen these before, you can build three different circuits that take a common voltage input, use step down to make references of 5 and 3.3 volt for differing circuits that would represent a project, such ideas that come to mine are to use with Arduinos.
We have split supply breadboards at my job, same size as your top board but the supply and ground rails have breaks in the red and blue lines to indicate this. It’s just so you can have lots of options for isolating circuits or have up to 4 different supplies... your probably right about the Chinese version though - doubt they’d make an option like this on purpose... or simply skimped on the blue/red lines..
Electrical engineer here: it’s actually not all that uncommon for bread boards to have those power buses sectioned like that. They’re not the popular option but it is a useful feature if you have a circuit with multiple voltages you’re working with. They usually mark the partitions with a dot or perpendicular line or “M” depending on the manufacturer. Sometimes the blank spot between the power bus lines is slightly wider than the continuous sections. Point is there is usually an indication if you know what you’re looking for. It’s definitely frustrating the first time you run into it though lol.
Actually that's exactly how they are supposed to be. Simply for various voltage circuit testing. The high quality boards have usually only one separation on the rails at midway point (between 30 and 35) giving two testing boards. 4 small jumpers midway makes it one board or you can trick it around to give a longer neg rail or pos rail. I've even seen boards with segregations every two banks on the bus. Cheers. Oh, also it makes it an easier setup when using pos and neg rail op amps etc.
No way! I have one of those also, its now marked with sharpie and jumpered when I use it. Damn oriental crafting.
I have a few that look like the upper one but come with tiny blue and red jumpers to bridge the middle. I also have a big 4x board (the one with the banana plugs) that also has breaks at the mid-point of each board's power rail
I am sorry, but I have know about this for years. Before I start (with an unknown board) a project I check the continuity of the busses.
I just loved the 'Probably "Cribbage Board" didn't get translated properly.' comment below!
Thanks to bigclivedotcom for the information, as I have seen in the comments, some of us know about the problem, and some don't.
Another little point, for those unfamiliar with the breadboard with the PCB attached, shown towards the top of the video frame, there is a correct side(end) to put thew PCB on. You have to put it (the PCB) on the correct side (end) , so that the red line is + (positive) and the blue line is is - (negative). How do I know that, well take a guess!! Correct smoke and smell!
I have a RadioShack breadboard where the busbars are divided in half (and nothing in the packaging to warn you. I did exactly the same; just jumpered across the sections to make them one contiguous bus.
That's actually pretty common for those Chinese breadboards for some reason. Though in my experience, they are usually interrupted only once in the middle. So that you would basically need one jumper in the middle for it all to be connected.
Not sure why they did that. I guess I always assumed they thought it might be useful to have more flexibility and be able to use the two halves individually if needed.
Thats actually fairly common even with non-Chinese ones 🙂
I wouldn't be surprised if those sections were the same length as those in their small ~170 point breadboards. Cheaper than manufacturing two distinct lengths I'd presume.
I have the same one lying around and never really used it because I couldn't figure out why my circuits never worked! But I kind of expected this. :D
I've got a breadboard where each 4 holes of the 'bus'-bar is its own segment, totally disconnected from the rest. I got it from Tandy, while they were still around, too!
We use to have them like that when I was at the Tec in the 1990s , but were marked on the front to show the cuts.
it is for multiple voltages and ic circuits you can come off a high pin and tap it several times.
I like to divide my red rail into individual sections. From left to right they provide +12v, +5v, +3,3v, -12v and +10kv respectively. I stay away from the right side of my breadboard because I find the char is quite conductive indeed.
i've seen them with just one gap in the center of each bus strip (so it's essentially 2 half-length breadboards in one, can be useful for when you e.g. deal with a 3v cpu and a 5v peripheral), but at least those were marked with gaps in the red/blue stripes
I have a few of these. Your first clue that you have one is the single row of power connections along the sides. Might not always be true but the ones I have are the only strips I have with the single row power connections on the side. I found out the same way you did. My circuit wasn't working and I had to run out the connections to find the broken ones. I found it too difficult to remember what is connected so I just put in bare wire jumpers to make them common.
They often break the long strips up for allowing more than one bus voltage. However, the more-common arrangement is to break each one into two, not three, busses.
I had a breadboard like that. It came with an arduino starter kit from Ebay and the connections were so loose that the slightest bump of a resistor would cause the connection to jitter.
It's useful if you have a de-coupled power bus, for examplpe between the power and pre-amp stages of an amplifier you might have a resistor in series with the bus and a smoothing capacitor to ground.
So now you can have several circuits on the board with separate power supplies. I quite like them made that way.
It's pretty usual to be like that Clive, nothing weird about that. These kind of boards make me fail prototyping classes back in 2005 in university. The only part that I won't forgive in these boards is that they don't mark the intermittent contacts accordingly with blue and red. Actually the most obvious part of them being interrupted is the lack of colours. But I have found some with continuous red and blue stripes but they were like the one you tested.
Most of the Tandy/Radioshack breadboards have the same thing. The bus is divided into two in the middle.
wow that breadboard brings back some memories
ALL breadboards are made like that. The metal contact strips are NOT made in continuous lengths. They are made in discrete unit lengths. They are chopped into the groups of 5 for the vertical columns, and they are used "whole" for the horizontal (power bus) sections. The problem with this board is NOT how it is constructed. The problem is that it is not labeled properly.
My Radio Shack(TM) bread board, which I purchased in the mid 2000's, has a similar arrangement but not as severe, the bus bars are split in the midpoint of the board so I suppose you could use 4 different power supplies or some such.
Thats quite useful for sometimes for various voltage rails or different power supply to isolate them from one another ;)
I've literally just bought 5 of these from Ebay last week. Caught me out on first test too.
Non-continuous bus bars would facilitate having multiple voltages available. Cheers!
I have the same type , but on mine it is colored coded strips so it was obvious, I actually find it very handy to have a V+1 and V+2 etc
Wow, I was working with a breadboard a few years ago that had this, and since I was new to electronics I figured it was just the way breadboards worked and that I was misremembering what I had learned in school. It's comforting that someone more experienced was perplexed to see this. I ended up sticking a bit of wire between each break to just tie the power rails together and kept them as permanent fixtures ever since.
Of course with the random spike of attention youtube assigned to this video, many people are saying they've seen this before, but I maintain that it oughta be clarified on the breadboard.
All the breadboards at my high school were like that (not the exact same one, the power bus bars were split in the middle 50/50). Took me ages to figure out why my circuit wasn't working the first time and now years later I still have a habit of putting a jumper between both ends of the breadboard...
Love your videos, funny and educational and you upload daily.
I bought a big board from 3M, 4 wide, that was similar, the bus bars were broken in half. Drove me nuts at first , have permanent jumpers on them now.
I once got one of those with an arduino starter pack, working on getting a display to work. Took me a couple of hours of troubleshooting to realize the busses werent connected all the way through
ive used these but the one i had had a mark to indicate the breaks. there have been times when i needed to transfer the negative bus to the top so led's could be installed to line up with chip outputs instead of additional jumpers. not very often do you need so many access points to the +ve supply. got my first one back in 82 and it cost me about 40 dollars, today, theyre worth about 5.
I got hold of something like that back when I first started in electronics. Also low quality boards where the pins wouldn't make good contact. To this day I don't trust breadboard for anything but the simplest circuits.
Some of my breadboards (MB-102 - styled) have the bus bars of full length, and some have those cut in two sections. I don't know why they did that, but it can be useful too.
It's just… surprising AF!
Good tip, I need to check that on my bread boards
Somehow all three breadboards I have are like this, I thought this was normal...