HS296 Vevor milling vice improvements - handle repair
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- Опубліковано 11 лют 2025
- The next improvement I’m making is to the swivel link on the vice handle. The pivot pin was drilled totally wonky. #Vevor The channel I mention is The Recreational Machinist / therecreationalmachinist
I am certain that tightening your vice is now much more satisfying. Good result!
It is, and as usual I learnt things. Cheers
Hi Paul. You could not have demonstrated any better that patience and determination wins the day. Well done on a great result. 👏👏👍😀
PS Those station boards are great fun 😀👍
So glad you put that wonky thing right. 👍👍
Masonry bits sharpened on green stone, recently drilled holes into the Jaws of Vernier caliper, plenty oil and low speed, no problems.
Cheaper than carbide drills!
The masonry bits are exactly what I would also suggest....used a sharpened masonry bit numerous times to deal with hardened material.
Tool maker mate gave me a 1/2" Deloro Stellite drill.
Gave it a try on old Nicholson file, drill press at max rpm, it was like a fireworks display, burnt through the file, perfect Dia and drill unscathed.
Hi Willem, people have told me about masonry drills in the past and of course I forget, BUT next time I will remember!! Cheers
Will have to check my Vevor vices now ! 😁
It gave a good fight, but you prevailed in the end!
You'll be familair with the phrase "polishing a t...." :-)
Seriously, nice job. I binned my handle and now use a ring spanner but you've got me thinking.
Indeed Sir I know that phrase. Every cheap tool provides an opportunity to solve problems and expand my skills as a hobbyist. I spent a year in a machine shop age 16/17 and did not return to it until 5 years ago. It takes me a surprisingly long time to (re)learn all this stuff. Cheers
I had to chuckle on how a simple thing turns into a hard task.
Ill just make a completely different handle for my vise! Thanks for the videos!
Yep, I got that sinking feeling where I'm in and I have to finish but it just gets more silly. Still, it came out ok that's the main thing. Cheers
eyup Paul
got there in the end, "Chinesium Monkey Metal",
Love the train announcement board, 🚂🚂
see you next time👍👍👍👍😉😉🚂🚂
atb
Kev
Hi Kev you can buy those announcement boards in 3 sizes and then select the station location. There is also an option to speak the announcement "I am sorry to announce that one train was on time today...." Two of our daughters and our son work in the rail industry, that's the connection. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed cheers Paul, thanks for the info. see you next time👍👍😉😉
Nice job Paul.
"I thought this was going to be a quick job but unfortunately the part didn't read the script" love it. I might use that line 😂
Hi Matt, my lawyers will be in touch with a copyright licencing deal..... 🤣🤣
Repairs on something badly made always takes longer than you think, but what an improvement!
Phil
Thanks for posting. Superb filming as usual. Very enjoyable content. Cast iron does not nake chips like steel. It is very powdery when ground or drilled. You could have use masonry drill bids they are carbide tipped and very cheap. Sometimes I use ceramic tile drill bids they are very precise with a triangular carbide head. You could also annheal the part prior to welding. Get yourself a hardness tester they are quite cheap now. This will save you misery down the line.
HI Bernard, not sure why I overlooked masonry drills. People have suggested them a few times in the past. Next time I'll remember. Cheers
It fought you the whole way but you got there in the end. 👍
Great job, a lot of hurdles to get there. You had a vision of the end result and you achieved it. Determination. Aaron from Canada.
Thank you Aaron. 👍
Well I think it's great to take something and modify it to your standards - just as much fun as making new parts honestly. Bit of a struggle there, but it happens - you got the result with what you had, that's a win.
Based on how hard your weld got, I would say that was cast iron and not steel. The higher carbon content in the cast iron migrates to the molten weld puddle and makes it very hard, and brittle.
Hi think you are right Greg, cast iron or recycled mixed scrap with a lot of carbon. It did not quite seem like cast iron, but it did not quite seem like steel either. Mystery metal. Cheers
I think that the weld was so hard because some of the free carbon in the cast iron migrated into the molten weld pool, changing the mild steel of the rod to high-carbon steel in the weld. The reasonably fast cooling of the weld pool then caused very hard martensite to form.
That was my thought too, but easy enough to anneal it to make it easier to drill.
I agree. I've seen that happen before.
Would say the metal used to cast was a blend of leftover pieces, a mix of cast iron dust and steel swarf, which gave it that blend of properties. Yes an anneal would have reduced the hardness a lot, but still would probably have been better to simply take a second hand socket, ground the chrome plate off, annealed it, and used a scrap block of steel in the mill to make a slot for the handle, then weld the socket to the new end, and quench harden the socket again.
Two simpler solutions: 1. Use silicon bronze and braze the pin in. 2. Drill a much larger hole on the path of the existing one and weld in a longer plug so the ends aren’t affected by the weld.
@gillywild even with brazing you run the risk of local hardening of the cast material, which can often be seen by a brazed joint failing next to the joint, because the cast is hard and brittle due to the lack of slow cooling ie annealing..
What you needed was a woodburning stove. Chuck the part in and let it get up to red heat, then leave in overnight to cool down really slowly. Thats worked for me on several hardened parts that I needed to machine.
Hiya, I have a good torch but it takes a lot of heat and hard to stop it cooling too quickly. I've looked at heat treatment ovens but they are too expensive for occasional use. So maybe a wood or small coke stove/hearth ..... I'll think about that. Cheers
Well done on the handle. The part getting hard was a big challenge.
I have a sloppy handle on my vise. After seeing your video, I may just leave well enough alone.
Dave.
Hi Paul, great fix and very well presented you’ll never need to touch that again.
It reminded me of a fix I did on a Triumph Spitfire door handle which had worn its way through the cheap die casting. At that time I was working in a factory making chart recorders and was able to use some lovely sintered bearings and ground bar. It was like a Rolls Royce after that, well the door handle anyway!!
Have a great weekend, all the best!!
Or how a quick and easy little job becomes a long and complicated one :)
The handle was cast iron judging by the swarf when intially countersunk and then the sparks from grinding. Great perseverance and good end result.
Hi Carl, it may have been some sort of cast iron but could also be recovered scrap metal from all sorts of grades mixed. Cheers
I would have used it like it was. Just hard to look at that and not want to fix it. If you have time the way you fixed it is better. Well done Paul.
After realising it had hardened - I would have been sorely tempted to get a 6 point socket that fitted the vice and fabricated a new handle from scratch!
The long handle on my cheap Vevor copy (!) always gets snarled up in the handwheel of my Bridgeport. The pivot is just as bad as yours was. I tried an Edge Technologies two-speed handle, but it fouls the casting, I'm thinking or making a three-armed long-nosed handle with bright red knobs on. Just because... I'd have been tempted to TIG-braze the joint with a bit of ally bronze filler. I have some ridiculously cheap carbide endmills for jobs like that, they were way cheaper than carbide drills. I tried a cheap set of carbide burrs in a die-grinder, but they weren't much use. In burrs, drills and, indeed, vices, you get what you pay for!
Nicely done Paul, bit of a palaver to get it right but you'll have the satisfaction of seeing your handiwork each time you use it now. I have a couple of Vevor machine vices, both handles are actually well made, maybe you got a Friday afternoon job.
Hi Jason, yes it sounds like quality is variable. The QA department must have been on a works outing the day my handle was made. Cheers Paul
Very nice work mister Haxby. Very interesting. I like your style and would definitely think on also have similar improvements once I have my mill
Hi Rusty, for a long time I resisted getting a mill thinking I could do everything between the drill, lathe and shaper. But in the end I saw a good mill at a reasonable price quite close to home so I went for it. Cheers
Another option may have been to heat it up then let it cool down slowly to anneal it. But in the end, you did a great job.
That vice has probably doubled in value now, there’s no doubt a job is waiting for you in China as the head of QC . Great video once again. Note for all of us casting aspersions on the Chinese manufacturing industry these items are made at a price point similar to the Japanese manufacturing industries of the 1960’s and look how quickly their quality improved. Having visited China early last year I was amazed at the things I saw , no doubt everything is not what we call rosy , however they are an economic and manufacturing powerhouse.
I had similar problems with a hard spot after welding cast iron. I solved it by heating the part and letting it cool slowly
Bravo.
👍
That factory workmanship wouldn’t even pass the Three Stooges inspection department holy smokes.
Much better now 👍
Hi Dean, maybe the handles were 'bought in' and only checked for weight. Pretty astounding wasn't it. Cheers
do you have small masonry bits and a silicon carbide grind stone? dress the masonry bit and hay presto a carbide faced drill bit
Hi Bristol, I keep forgetting that trick but next time I will remember. Thank you.
sometimes you can drill through hard steel with a regular drill bit by slowing the drill down as slow as your drill press can go
👍🏻
I think that hole was drilled 1 min before knock off time on a Friday 😅 Good fix.
Had same problem, so used an old socket handle. Didn’t have all the 'gear' to do same as you.
For sure a socket would do it Lawrence, but would deprive me of a project. 😁Cheers
Thats the problem, being a Yorkshire Man you could have brought a Kurt vice = costs materials, equipment, electricity, time the list goes on . Seen it all before with the 10 pound Poms .
Kit from down under
Hi Kit, Brits don't like to spend cash. But one time in USA I ordered a pizza delivery and when it came I did not tip. The guy looked at me and then realised the problem, he said "are you Australian?". (this is 100% true story) Cheers
@HaxbyShed tipping to Australians is like begging, ask your boss for a raise he is bludging of you .Was in the work for 50 years no body tiped me because we were payed correctly. It trying to be introduced there but the boss is beig told to bite this arse . But we have always been able to sort out tight fisted Yorkshire men down there. ( some when home) think about tipping.
Kit from down under
The biggest issue with my Ebay vice, which looks identical to your Vevor vice, was the hold down mounts were just not in a good place to give me the best amount of "Y" travel and still get to the back of the fixed jaw.
Yes I can understand that Jack. Cheers
Next, take the moving jaw off and see what you find. There is supposed to be a spherical seat and a half ball bearing connecting the nut and the jaw, so that the jaw is pulled down as the nut is tightened. On one that I got from China some years ago, the ball was resident within the vicinity but had little part to play in holding the jaw down. You might be surprised at what you find. In the end I got sick of polishing the turd / slapping lipstick on the pig and got a far better one from Arc Euro which is a fine beast in comparison. Made in the same country but to much higher standards yet at a reasonable price.
Yes I will be taking the jaw off Murray so I will have a look. At this point all I can say is the jaw does not lift any appreciable amount when I clamp it. So we'll see what I find ..... thanks for the highlighting that. Cheers
What’s that tool you are using called the green one
Wow that handle was really bad! Did you ask them to replace it? Nice job on the fix, but wow.
Hi Mick, to be fair I got the vice for free to do a review. So you all see the good and the bad. Notwithstanding that terrible handle pin it's a reasonable vice at a price for hobbyists or a general workshop. Cheers
At least they are consist..cheap yet functional products..those Chinese kids do a fine job mostly..just use a spanner if the Chinesium handle is so off putting..Cheers mate..
Try using drills designed for concrete.
Yes Gary, I will stick that on a note somewhere I can't miss it next time. Thanks
I made my own speed habdke.
Out of 2 nuts and e piece of steel.
Tra to improve the knternal mechanism.
On my copy the half ball and the angled contact surface ere extremely rough
I cut a bearing ball in half and cleaned the surfaces.
Works much better
Hi Martin, probably I will make a new screw because the one fitted is a bit short. I will look at the half ball. Cheers
You know you could of just drilled a big enough hole to take out all that slope then use a bigger pin