I'm happy for your truma 🤣 Sooooo many wires! Honestly the wiring wasn't too bad, mounting the glycol tank took longer than the wiring (...and there was blood shed) it was enough of an adventure for for an entire video just on the tank 👀
Thank you so much for posting these videos, have same kit. These helped me so much figuring this out especially wiring. On putting parts together you can use olive oil or just water and also those fittings were leaking as you are not supposed to use Teflon with compression fittings that have internal gaskets.
I was worried about contaminating the inside, so I didn't use anything but hot water and force to try get the pipes on, but frankly some lubricant would have been much easier!! Didn't know they were compression fittings, but there are no peaks now, good to know for the future 👍
Great video thank you! Good to know that the pump shouldn't make that noise. I know you will find an elegant solution. Nice find on the glycol tank by the way!
Yeah, we think we figured out - we'll run more tests in next weeks' vid. The pump doesn't go completely silent but it is quite obvious whe there is liquid passing. 🙂
I feel your pain. My system didn't quite work the first time, close but the floor loop didn't get warm. So I reran my hose for a single loop with a 3 way valve, but that seems worse. Although after your video I think it is because I have to bleed the system. I haven't touched it for a couple months because the weather is too hot right now.
I admire your persistence and determination. Instead of bleeding any air out, can it be purged by repeatedly turning the system off and on? Or could you put pressure on your filler tank to push any air round, effectively flushing the pipes? My water pump/pressure vessel moans when it is sucking air through if my water tank is getting low. Remedy seems to be to switch it off and restart which seems to re-prime and shove the air round and out. Just a thought. Best of luck.
Just running the pump repeatedly - didn't do it - running the pump dry would wear it out fast. We have moved the pipes around and that seems to have done the job. Next Saturday we show those tests - would love to know if you think the pump sounds normal after the alterations. 🙂
I used to design and build waterfalls so very familiar with pumps. You need to pre prime your pump. You can try add a little water and glycol before the pump if elevation is ok. Also make sure your water glycol ratio is right. Lastly, you need to run all piping after your pump in a line and do not tee off. You must force the solution through one pipe and not have it tee off. Also you need third valve between cross over pipe to force the so,union into your radiant piping.
Yes I think having more valves to force the glycol through only 1 line at a time would have made it easier. Priming this pump was a nightmare! They don't make it easy!
Planning this myself! Any idea if the heater and the matrix are passive, i.e. when there is no power to them, does coolant freely flow through the them? Or would you need bypass valve and tubing for coolant to flow with these components off?
When the heater is off - coolant doesn't flow at all because the glycol pump is powered when the heater is on. The matrix is a series of fancy open pipes i.e when you connect the matrix/heat exchanger to the glycol loop, the glycol will always pass through them, regardless whether they are in use or not.
My first though was an airlock. IMO your header tank isn't quite high enough to fill the system especially as at least one of your hoses is sitting quite high. What i would do.. * First lay any rubber hoses down as much as possible til the lines are full. * If you have a length of spare hose, remove the header tank and temporarily connect to the longer hose at a higher level and refill. * Clamp the hose to limit the loss of fluid while you refit the header tank under the seat.
We didn't think of raising the tank higher (temporarily) but it's a good idea. We have dropped the pipes to the floor and move the heat exchanger loops down as well... and the air seems to be out - Next Saturday you'll hear the pump... apparently working correctly 😀
I wish I could help guys. You put so much into your research. Would it be possible to create a high point in the system that you could bleed from. I suppose the lack of circulation would prevent the air from reaching that point. Question the manufacturer for possible solution? there must be one. Good luck.
Oddly enough the older generations and bleed valves on the pump, heat exchanger and air matrix themselves 👀 We did manage to fix it by rearranging the pipes and some other little tweaks (next week's video 😉 ) But yes the pump not being able to prime itself is a real thorn in the design of this very expensive heater
Hi, How is life? Small question to you, where did you find the drawings of the sprinter van? I hope you can help me with this. Greetz from The Netherlands
Not sure which ones you mean, but we painstakingly measured and drew our van manually, which is what we have been using. We put together an 80 page document with them all on if that is something you were interested in (www.freedom-strider.com/sprinter-van-conversion-layout-planner) Hope this helps 😊👍
These are our van drawings - www.freedom-strider.com/sprinter-van-conversion-layout-planner (the link didn't copy the first time so you got the wrong link) 😊
I plan to install the same Kalori Silencio air heating system. Are you happen with air matrix you installed now that you have had it for a year or would you think of maybe using another one? Thanks
Had exactly the same problem with a Webasto system, noisy pump, difficult to get the air out, and with two air bled valves in the system, the pumps are rubbish until you get the air out, we have managed but you can buy bled valves that fit in the 19mm pipe that would help at the high points in the pipe work.
Just an interested viewer with no experience in this kind of system or any kind of fluid dynamics but when the underfloor heating valves are open Is it not an easier path for the glycol to use the same route as when the valves are shut rather than push around all that tubing under the floor? In other words do you need a valve between the two T fittings that is shut when the underfloor heating valves are open and open when the underfloor heating valves are shut?
Yes, you are right, we too thought this but we tested it without first, and ended up needing to buy another valve for that H piece (next week's video 😉)
Great video and love your persistence! I am planning to use the same system and I wonder if you have tested the water heating capacity. Is it enough to give you continuous hot water?
The main reason we went with a hydronic heater instead of an airtronic is because we a) wanted on-demand hot water for our future recirculating shower, and b) because we wanted to run underfloor heating - the hydronic system is much more versatile and an airtronic heating system and was the best option for us 👍
We like You ✌Two and we think your heater is going to pull through. ⁽ • ⁾°. * • ⁽✨) Your going to get Bubbles we wish you the best, but if your Van is Rocking ⁽° •.*) Your heater will be hip hopping without Skipping a Beat , your Van is looking real Freaking Sweet, 😺we like the Vw with your high Roof there's so much room that you wouldn't get Cooped .Very nice you ✌
@@FreedomStrider Believe me Sir commenting is hard work. We really like how you two carry on with each other and your Van Build DIY is a blessing to us that want to get started with our own build . I haven't decided on which van to start my build with, I'm still looking around for the most space inside I can get, I do like the Vw Crafter and I'm now looking at the large Renault master Crew Cab DW E20 Chassis 2010 model . But I do prefer DW E30 in long wheel base which is more money to buy at this time .
Oh my so many wires . Our truma has 2 lol. You 2 have stuck at this longer that I would have . I’d have given up . Good job guys
I'm happy for your truma 🤣 Sooooo many wires! Honestly the wiring wasn't too bad, mounting the glycol tank took longer than the wiring (...and there was blood shed) it was enough of an adventure for for an entire video just on the tank 👀
Watching this makes me glad I opted for an uncomplicated and reliable diesel heater.
Well, there is a time and place for everything - this is not a route to be take for no reason 😉
Thank you so much for posting these videos, have same kit. These helped me so much figuring this out especially wiring. On putting parts together you can use olive oil or just water and also those fittings were leaking as you are not supposed to use Teflon with compression fittings that have internal gaskets.
I was worried about contaminating the inside, so I didn't use anything but hot water and force to try get the pipes on, but frankly some lubricant would have been much easier!! Didn't know they were compression fittings, but there are no peaks now, good to know for the future 👍
The competition is mounting between yourselves and Always Van Adventure for the longest UA-cam van build.
Haha, if we are in it, we are in it to win it... I guess. 😂
Great video thank you! Good to know that the pump shouldn't make that noise. I know you will find an elegant solution. Nice find on the glycol tank by the way!
Yeah, we think we figured out - we'll run more tests in next weeks' vid. The pump doesn't go completely silent but it is quite obvious whe there is liquid passing. 🙂
Great video guys! Hope you get it sorted soon!
Thanks, we think we got it 👍
I feel your pain. My system didn't quite work the first time, close but the floor loop didn't get warm. So I reran my hose for a single loop with a 3 way valve, but that seems worse. Although after your video I think it is because I have to bleed the system. I haven't touched it for a couple months because the weather is too hot right now.
It is a fiddly system to install and get working, but one step at a time - we'll all get there. 😀
I admire your persistence and determination. Instead of bleeding any air out, can it be purged by repeatedly turning the system off and on? Or could you put pressure on your filler tank to push any air round, effectively flushing the pipes? My water pump/pressure vessel moans when it is sucking air through if my water tank is getting low. Remedy seems to be to switch it off and restart which seems to re-prime and shove the air round and out. Just a thought. Best of luck.
Just running the pump repeatedly - didn't do it - running the pump dry would wear it out fast. We have moved the pipes around and that seems to have done the job. Next Saturday we show those tests - would love to know if you think the pump sounds normal after the alterations. 🙂
I used to design and build waterfalls so very familiar with pumps. You need to pre prime your pump. You can try add a little water and glycol before the pump if elevation is ok. Also make sure your water glycol ratio is right. Lastly, you need to run all piping after your pump in a line and do not tee off. You must force the solution through one pipe and not have it tee off. Also you need third valve between cross over pipe to force the so,union into your radiant piping.
Yes I think having more valves to force the glycol through only 1 line at a time would have made it easier. Priming this pump was a nightmare! They don't make it easy!
I have the same problem with my glycol tank and not enough room. Where did you get your new tank?
eBay, for a racing car 🤣 there's a link in the video description 👌
Planning this myself! Any idea if the heater and the matrix are passive, i.e. when there is no power to them, does coolant freely flow through the them? Or would you need bypass valve and tubing for coolant to flow with these components off?
When the heater is off - coolant doesn't flow at all because the glycol pump is powered when the heater is on. The matrix is a series of fancy open pipes i.e when you connect the matrix/heat exchanger to the glycol loop, the glycol will always pass through them, regardless whether they are in use or not.
My first though was an airlock.
IMO your header tank isn't quite high enough to fill the system especially as at least one of your hoses is sitting quite high.
What i would do..
* First lay any rubber hoses down as much as possible til the lines are full.
* If you have a length of spare hose, remove the header tank and temporarily connect to the longer hose at a higher level and refill.
* Clamp the hose to limit the loss of fluid while you refit the header tank under the seat.
We didn't think of raising the tank higher (temporarily) but it's a good idea. We have dropped the pipes to the floor and move the heat exchanger loops down as well... and the air seems to be out - Next Saturday you'll hear the pump... apparently working correctly 😀
I wish I could help guys. You put so much into your research. Would it be possible to create a high point in the system that you could bleed from. I suppose the lack of circulation would prevent the air from reaching that point. Question the manufacturer for possible solution? there must be one. Good luck.
Oddly enough the older generations and bleed valves on the pump, heat exchanger and air matrix themselves 👀
We did manage to fix it by rearranging the pipes and some other little tweaks (next week's video 😉 )
But yes the pump not being able to prime itself is a real thorn in the design of this very expensive heater
Hi,
How is life? Small question to you, where did you find the drawings of the sprinter van? I hope you can help me with this.
Greetz from The Netherlands
Not sure which ones you mean, but we painstakingly measured and drew our van manually, which is what we have been using. We put together an 80 page document with them all on if that is something you were interested in (www.freedom-strider.com/sprinter-van-conversion-layout-planner) Hope this helps 😊👍
These are our van drawings - www.freedom-strider.com/sprinter-van-conversion-layout-planner (the link didn't copy the first time so you got the wrong link) 😊
I plan to install the same Kalori Silencio air heating system. Are you happen with air matrix you installed now that you have had it for a year or would you think of maybe using another one? Thanks
We are happy with the Silencio air matrix, it is as quiet as it can be and the heat is strong. 😊
Had exactly the same problem with a Webasto system, noisy pump, difficult to get the air out, and with two air bled valves in the system, the pumps are rubbish until you get the air out, we have managed but you can buy bled valves that fit in the 19mm pipe that would help at the high points in the pipe work.
We managed to get the air out by dropping the pipes, but we are looking to get bleeder valves for future.
The bleed valves I found are here www.rjaanatpt.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=75883
@@FreedomStrider this website is a scam. Delete the message!!
Just an interested viewer with no experience in this kind of system or any kind of fluid dynamics but when the underfloor heating valves are open Is it not an easier path for the glycol to use the same route as when the valves are shut rather than push around all that tubing under the floor? In other words do you need a valve between the two T fittings that is shut when the underfloor heating valves are open and open when the underfloor heating valves are shut?
Yes, you are right, we too thought this but we tested it without first, and ended up needing to buy another valve for that H piece (next week's video 😉)
Great video and love your persistence! I am planning to use the same system and I wonder if you have tested the water heating capacity. Is it enough to give you continuous hot water?
We haven't connected the hot water system yet but the hot air system is working great 👍
Aww guys, sorry to hear about the pump. Did you manage to bleed it?
We rearranged the pipes and managed to get most of the air out, you'll see next week 😉
I'm at 14:45 and things appear to be going swimmingly.
Upto that point... everything was theoretically OK. 😉
Bought same heat exchanger. There was a washer that was too big installed in unit that caused your problem. Manufacture's screw up.
Good to know it's not just us 😉
The lines to the heat exchanger are to high. Hold the tank up higher
Yes, we did move those lines down, tricky as we are very limited on height, but we've moved the tank as high as possible 🙂👍
Great job but y do so complicated when u can buy airtop heater. This hydronic are used for engine heating most
The main reason we went with a hydronic heater instead of an airtronic is because we a) wanted on-demand hot water for our future recirculating shower, and b) because we wanted to run underfloor heating - the hydronic system is much more versatile and an airtronic heating system and was the best option for us 👍
I would think you could just start disconnecting hoses until you found one without glycol.
They all had glycol in, there were just some bubbles trapped in the high loops. Disconnecting randomly would be unnecessarily messy. 😊
We like You ✌Two
and we think your
heater is going to pull
through. ⁽ • ⁾°. * • ⁽✨)
Your going to get Bubbles
we wish you the best, but if
your Van is Rocking ⁽° •.*)
Your heater will be
hip hopping without
Skipping a Beat , your Van
is looking real Freaking
Sweet, 😺we like the Vw
with your high Roof there's so
much room that you wouldn't
get Cooped .Very nice you ✌
You certainly know your rhymes 😎
@@FreedomStrider
Believe me Sir commenting is hard work. We really like how you two carry on with each other and your Van Build DIY is a blessing to us that want to get started with our own build .
I haven't decided on which van to start my build with, I'm still looking around for the most space inside I can get, I do like the Vw Crafter and I'm now looking at the large Renault master Crew Cab DW E20 Chassis 2010 model . But I do prefer DW E30 in long wheel base which is more money to buy at this time .