Color Television CRT Cataract Removal and Replacement Pt1 1966 Sylvania Tabletop
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- Опубліковано 14 кві 2023
- Selected as a researcher in the highly-competitive Summer Science Research Program. Performed and presented computational research on the role of olfactory Darsh's definition of let's do it again. Ursos horse photos. ... Opel corsa korno butonoonumalangoje
/ shango066 - Розваги
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In my about 30 years of using rebuilt CRTs from the early 80's until the early 00's (we stocked 20-50 common sizes most of the time here in Northern California), about once a year or so we would hear a pop from the storage room and investigate and find a imploded CRT in the box. I wonder how many we didn't find that popped over a weekend or at night. Keep in mind that they were all rebuilds. Ah the good old 80's and 90's. Good job with the PPE!
Sounds like a lot of lost $$$. I never saw a repair shop that stocked CRTs. Always ordered with core return deposit, like car alternators.
Did they track the rebuilders?
@@directcurrent5751We didn't either. Always ordered as needed. We did few CRT replacements to begin with... Had a small showroom of used sets that were typically newer and larger than what the customer brought in that we would sell them instead and then we'd toss their old chassis downstairs in the parts basement if it was worth keeping.
All that safety gear almost looks like Shango going to the local Walmart.
"I don't follow rules..." That pretty much sums up how Shango rolls. The Subaru anti-endorsement addendum made my evening.
Now I am excited for the upcoming Colorama color experience.
Where the big girls at?
@ 5:35 Ya, anyone that's caused/seen a catastrophic CRT implosion throw fist sized chunks of glass 10+ feet, will usually heed any safety warnings that go along with handling them.
Back in HS in the late 70's a brain-dead student thought it would be fun to vandalize the electronics class oscilloscopes with a hammer. Idiot's arm was so badly cut, and he bled so much, the police had a vivid trail of blood directly to his front door. I feel bad for the then vintage Eico scopes, not him.
@@jamesplotkin4674Well, the school won't need to press charges, cause he would've already learned his lesson with the permanent injuries on his arm!
I love that vintage RCA packing tape.
"I take that seriously because I only have one set of eyes and they are not yet replaceable" Is a whole mood
The only times I've ever regretted having that voice in my head saying I was about to be injured, was when I ignored it.
Been watching since your urbex days. I'll always love your eccentric way of thinking.
Shango, This is intense until you are able to remove the safety glass.
Im a simple man, i see a shango colour tv video, i click 'like'👍shave half a volt off the filament voltage and that colorama will last a lifetime and you can re-seal these lenses with a good quality clear silicone, it will never go bad again
Wow, a cyberpunk beekeeper thumbnail :D
The thumbnail alone makes this a must see video.
Wow you're a pro at doing those cataracts. That ending was funny. Can't wait to see the picture on the TV.
wowzers that looks sooo close to my familys tv we grew up with!!!!
Nice! Your own mosquito breeding pond. You will have a lot of fun with them coming summer evenings.
Any standing water...
Just add some hydrochloric acid to the water, so they will feel better.
My Dad worked for Westinghouse from the early 1960’s to 1977 when they closed the doors. He worked in a plant that mainly made CRT’s. He used to work on a “Lear” machine where I believe is where they create the vacuum and seal the neck. He said they would implode quite often. He also said any tubes that wouldn’t pass inspection for good TV manufacturers were always bought by Curtis Mathis. He always warned people not to buy those overpriced boat anchors because he knew their lack of integrity of selling a quality product was nonexistent. Just hype!
Our Curtis Mathes lasted 30 years. Mom got rid of it only because it wouldn't go higher than channel 37, after her favorite channel Lifetime went from channel 27 to 39. It was a great TV, so they were not all junk
I cant say the same about the Chinesium crap known as 'truflat' Apex TVs that weren't fooling anyone into them being LCD instead of a flattened front CRT
One of my uncles bought several Curtis Mathes televisions. He didn't have trouble with any of them until they got very old. The store that sold them in my area charged a hefty premium price for the brand, though. In the CRT era I usually bought RCA or Sony televisions, I was talked into trying a Sharp 25 inch television from the somewhat local Highland store (remember those) to connect to my TRS-80 CoCo 2 computer, it only lasted 5-6 years before it all of a sudden started smoking big time one day whereas my RCA and Sony TVs from the solid state era lasted 20 years without major servicing.
Love the cataract removal vids
if you want to fix the weird glass imperfections you could try bonding the entire thing with uv cure loca or liquid optically clear adhesive, it's what they use to bond cell phone digitizers to lcds and has a refractive index very close to glass so it hides basically any defects in the glass, you would need like 2 tubes of it at least but you put a massive blob in the middle and push down on the glass to spread it outward, then put it in the sun to cure for a day.
would be really interesting to try on a crt that you don't care about that had a super easy to remove safety glass, if you want to get really fancy with it you can vac chamber the whole thing to get any bubbles out but i've found it not necessary
It might be worth the use of a better product on a CRT that was NOS , had a cataract issue, and a longer expected life like a Sylvania that Shango mentioned, but seeing the forecasted life / warranty period of that tube, I don't think he was interested in putting in that extra cost in the rehab work.
Now we know the Colorama's secret! :) Now, those "matte" imperfections could be hidden by a thin coat of epoxy. I don't mean to make a flat pool on the top of CRT, but a temporary one (some tape) with a drainage place(s). Pour epoxy on top, let it flow, when surface covered drain, clean or cut the rest after it gets hard. Might want a second masking tape just down the CRT to avoid epoxy all over it. Only avoid bubbles. Best thing is you can do it again, polish it and cover with old protective glass!
Shellac.
Wonder if they were able to get away with selling factory blemish tubes to the repair market because the bonding goop covered up the defect.
No. Im guessing they simply did not replace the faceplate, because the intended service life was about 5 years, not 50. The Colorama tubes were rebuilt tubes. I'm not sure if RCA only rebuilt tubes of RCA origin, or if any tube was rebuilt by them. I suspect only RcA tubes because of the phosphor note. Hi-Lite was RCA branding for their all new tubes.
Wonder if the face of the crt can be polished with some canuba, things that make you go hmmmm😂
I imploded a couple 60s black and white crts when I was a kid. Good thing I wore nerdy glasses.
Those nerdy glasses from the 60's would withstand a nuclear attack. Had them. Thick as a brick.
Pretty fascinating! Really looking forward to Part II, Mr. Shango066.
22:37 Shango couldnt hold himself of excitement he even even dropped the heatgun!
Such a satisfying video.
Sylvania - back when we made stuff in New York State. Mostly a memory now. (GE, Kodak, GM engine plant, IBM, McIntosh stereo equipment, Corning glass, Remington rifles, ALCO locomotives, Bell Labs...)
Thankfully all of them are in abundance in our vendor mall.
That suit looks ..... amazing. You should go to the disco in that
Shango is having fun, in that warm California sun! Ha haha. You've got the right attitude about removing cataracts on rectangular tubes Shango.
Great video as always. Looking forward to the sequel.
I have a Motorola TV that had a cataract that was worse, it was in a flooded basement so it was full or rusty water and had flowing orange veins in the PVA glue...It looked like hell, but was a VERY easy cataract.
That "white glue" isn't glue it's a extra low melting point glass called "Frit Glass". It shouldn't ever fail. It exists because the most practical way to build a color tube is to assemble the face glass, phosphor and shadow mask first, then attach the cone at a temperature that wont cook the phosphor or warp the mask...That frit glass is why color tubes don't still have the goofy metal seal around the screen that 15GP22s, 19VP22s and 21AXP22s had.
I can smell that PVA from memory, and feel the slime...Kinda like most car mechanics can smell differential fluid when they see a picture of a diff. For those of you that have never smelled cataract PVA go to a pool store, buy a new inflatable and huff the smell of that then magnify it 3x and add a touch of ammonia/sour to it and you've got cataract glue.
Great Video, enjoyed it
Shango all puckered up from the cataract riding that Subi vibe. You'll definitely need the vape rig living the bottom life
Wooden door shims would work great for removing safety glass and are cheap as dirt.
yes, later crts had the metal rimband as one part of the implosion protection, other was to have a thicker glass face so an extra one wasnt needed
I understand. I would not want to be shot with shards of glass either. Great video, though!
Subaru sucks. My father inlaw had one. Hated driving it. Loud and lit would lurch every time starting off. GM, I hear you. Volt driver here. Best car ever.
Shango tell the national weather service that they have to get their declate waxed in order to get rid of the tornado.
Having it go boom with the rice crispy's crackling sound when you pour milk on them makes for great youtube content.
Like suit. Look like a bee keeper ready for war. Stay safe.
Great video, badass thumbnail.
Jeez, I was scared. When I saw the posted pic I thought Shango was gonna do some peaceful protesting.. If you had some guppies I'll bet they would enjoy those baby skeeters.
That type of laminated screen was mainly reserved for the colour tubes. B&W tubes were mostly standard, bare glass or tension banded. There were a handful of B&W types with laminated screens, mostly moulded glass or filled moulded glass, often with lugs.
Back in the day, we used to put our Winky Dinky plastic right on the CRT. Unless it didn't arrive in time, then we would write on the CRT. Parents were not amused.
Why did they put a layer of junk on top of the glass?
That original tube at the start looks like my first TV as a kid... Found it, begged dad to let me take it, and the tube was that bad... I could barely turn the color up.
Rite Dude, Mr C sent me! GB :)
Opel corsa korno butonoonumalangoje and the RCA styer cataract.
There are some good videos of CRT implosion on UA-cam under that search name.
Wow, new old stock packaging!
They usually are in oe packaging.
There was no reason to remove them from the protective box until it was time to use it.
How about an EOL on the old tube?
Rejuvenation first! If it revives it enough, he should keep it for a future resurrection video of a TV that has a completely dead or necked tube.
Glass is crazy stuff one day you can play football with it and the next day you just move it a bit and it pops, great removal well done.
Another successful cataract with no drama
Keeping personal safety in mind - I'd love to see a CRT implosion using a high-speed and close-up remote camera.
There's videos of slow mo crt explosions
Hes had a few EOLs where they implode. Its quite impressive
Since the other tube is garbage, it would be nice to see what a careful rejuvenation would do to it, before you replace it. If it revives it enough, might be worthy to keep it for a future resurrection video for a TV with a totally dead or necked tube.
I'm curious what the Beltron will do.
I'd like to see a demonstration of an implosion (done in a totally sealed room with nothing but a camera in it, of course)
@@fredmeyer1898 If the rejuvenation fails, yes, it would be nice. Although you can find plenty of such videos on YT. Even super slow motion ones. As someone who experienced it first hand, I must say what 95% of the CRT impolsion videos miss, is the very characteristic, unique sound of it. The huge thump what kicks your chest, caused by the pressure impulse as a large volume of high vacuum collapses instantaneously. Maybe a movie theatre subwoofer would be able to reproduce it, if someone records it properly. And the biggest CRT implosion I experienced was only a 22" 90° in-line color tube, outdoors. I can only imagine how a monster 32" 4:3 or bigger CRT sounds. Might even cause hearing damage in a smaller room.
If you search for 'Breaking a 40" Sony Trinitron XBR TV with a hammer', you will find a 13 year old video in which a guy smashes a 40" XBR Trinitron (sacrilege!) . Everything shakes in the garage, one camera tips over from the pressure wave.
@@mrnmrn1 Interesting... I never really looked an implosion up but I would be curious to see one too. Decades back I worked in a computer store... We used to take the dead monitors off the shelf for disposal and when we were tossing them, me and the other guys would purposely swing them by the cable and slam them into the dumpster trying to get one to implode but it never happened. These things are a lot tougher than people think. I think you've really got to hit the neck in a pretty specific way to get them to go. I am curious though, since the older ones were not reinforced in the same way as modern ones, how difficult it really is to actually implode one. I worked in repair in the 90s but this era of tubes is just slightly before my time and I don't remember us ever breaking any tubes while servicing, even when picking them up by the neck. We did receive CRTs that were necked before they got to us, probably on the deliver truck.
@@chad2787 You need to hit the screen or the bell. Breaking the neck won't cause implosion. Even with ancient tubes it's very unlikely (although not impossible with those). With modern ones, sometimes even hitting the screen with a sladgehammer is not enough, or only enough for a partial implosion, when the screen remains mostly in one piece, held together by the implosion band. If you want to be sure, you should cut the implosion band, but that is very dangerous, requires some serious PPE.
The best chance for a non-prepared, imposion band-protected CRT to fully implode from a screen impact, if you hit it with a medium-size hammer right in one corner of the screen.
Tossing CRT computer monitors rarely results in an implosion. If you toss one out of a 10th story window, it will implode. But if you just toss it to the ground from a few meters, if the tube damages at all, it will be a broken neck, no real chance for an implosion. Again, hitting one corner of the screen with a hammer will likely cause implosion.
I can smell the funk from here outside Sacramento ;-)
Love the video! It takes dedication to separate that glass front. On the Subaru, possibly tire(s) noise, it's happened to me on more than one occasion, new tires solved the issue. Sad thing is these tires still had lots of tread on them.
Factory tires are usually cheaper, even if it's a good brand.
Problem with Subies is that you have to replace all four tires at once so a lot of people put up with the noise if the rubber is about equally worn.
@@will89687Why do you have to replace all four at once? I've only ever heard of changing them in pairs, front or back, if you care about minor tracking in the alignment with substantially different tread depth/patterns. If you don't have a picky suspension, like say, a Ford Escort, you can run 4 totally different tires and the car will be fine so long as the alignment is good. It almost doesn't even matter if the wheel is not a drive wheel. Even with AWD only one wheel is getting power at any given time.
Ah man, I loved my Subaru ***hits vape***
Thanks!
Good morning Shango!! I was learning electronics and one of my inspirations was you. I bought a defective transistor radio earlier a Panasonic R-1018 to practice on repairing it. Hope it ends well, sending love from the Philippines! 🇵🇭
Best thumbnail ever!
I'm surprised at the assertion that the joint between the face and the funnel is a glue joint, I was under the impression that joint is made with glass frit, which starts as a slurry or paste suspended in a polymer binder, but is fused after application, effectively driving off the binder and sintering the glass frit. Using an adhesive there wouldn't make sense from an outgassing standpoint either.
Just spitballing but possibly the breakdown of the bonding agent was acidic and etched the glass, often on old camera lenses that were kept in a humid location they grow lens fungus which excretes an acid waste product that etches glass in a similar fashion.
I can't remember ever seeing a CRT with a safety shield here in the UK. Unless you could afford a Sony, the tube used to protrude from the front of the cabinet - there was no bezel. Apart from 1940s sets, we never had round tubes - always rectangular. I suppose our lawyers weren't quite as tenacious...
They would have latterly been the style with the safety shield held by a metal band, as described in the video. The band would be hidden behind the bezel on the European style sets (screen protruding from the bezel).
Or I think at some point they moved to designs with just the band and thicker face glass
The safety glass was usually separate on european TVs (not glued)
Go, go, go, go, go, go Go Shango it's you'r birftday, We gonna party like it's your birftday!
Shango could build an oven to put the tube in and heat evenly. Shelf in middle with slot for neck.
Good morning!!!
You're a braver man than I am. :)
Another hilarious video
I feel "validated" after watching this presentation, because, on one of the last video's Shango made on a cataract / shield removal, I thought and mentioned that some wood shims, PLACED ( not pounded inbetween the surfaces with a hammer like one said I suggested) might not be a bad method of slowly and gently separating the clear cover from the CRT, and lo and behold.. that's what was done on this video. The plastic shims that are available are even a better choice, they are more durable than wood and can be wiped off and reused after a use or two on messy instances like this.
Yes. With my morning coffee.
This year the mosquitos are just everywhere, because it didn't freeze for long enough for them to die out in the winter.
The mosquitoes seemed to go extinct here but we have an abundance of stink bugs as compensation. What a useless insect
Nice !
The old Subarus were great quality the newer ones not so much
Drove an almost new Subaru of that type (15k miles), Forester i think. The drivers side roof pillar was howling like bad wheel bearings.
I live in Tennessee. I was between that tornado and Nashville when it happened. I couldn’t even make detail of that CRT. It was bad.
Tornadoes are no joke I live in Tornado Alley.
I use pumice and toothpaste to remove glass imperfections.
You're right about Subaru drivers😄
I bet that bearing noise in the Subaru is the carrier bearing for the rear driveshaft. And I wonder if that blemish on the glass is from the decaying epoxy, maybe it gets acidic as it breaks down? (not an expert)
I bet you're right.
I would like to see you rejuvenate a picture tube several times to see how good you can get it and if it burns out oh well try low rejuvenation and high rejuvenation would be interesting.
Shango066 I look forward to part 2, just curious if you have ever tackled the hot wire crts, wouldn’t mind seeing you do a video on one of those
SHANGO!!!!!
Interesting and informative video. But I will never loan you my Subaru again, ingrate.
Something I've always wondered while watching you do this is would it be possible to cut the 2 layers apart with dental floss or some other thin strong thread?
That sounds like it would work, and you can get some crazy strong formerly exotic filaments (Kevlar, Spectra, Dyneema, etc) in a variety of gauges since they're pretty commonly used for fishing now.
@@treelineresearch3387 you generally use molybdenum cutting wire on cell phone screens and i'm sure that would work here but the issue is you can put a lot more force on the separation front than you think you are applying if the glue is really tough, just .1mm of wire diameter can cause a hard spot in the glue with the right shape to apply hundreds of psi on a very small area if it acts like a lever and gets jammed between the glass and screen
That depends on the bonding agent used when the tube was built in the factory. The tubes which use PVA (Polyvinyl acetate;basically wood glue) you treat with the chopstick method. And the tubes which use some kind of resin (cannot remember what it was, sorry) you treat with a guitar string or a hot nichrome wire. It's not a strict law, though. It's just how most of the afficionados do it.
There was one he did with a steel guitar string or similar. At 27:30 he's talking about using a hot wire.
that 'discolouration' dull area could likely be polished out with tcut or brasso...
If the Subaru was a hatchback, that would be a plus. And for those West Virginia winters the all wheel drive.
Hello new guy here what is that gelatinous clear substance that you're pulling away from the safety glass?
You should mail in the warranty card for shits n giggles.
Some will say that LCDs are better in coin op Arcade refurbished consoles. Nothing quite beats the CRT they were made to be 640x480 there is a huge market for arcade console collectors that need CRTs its really sad they just stopped making them completely. Its damn near impossible to find a vector graphics monitor
As a Britisher, I cannot believe a car can only report around 20 MPG at that speed with just a Shango and a TV onboard :o I know that people like their big engines and things but, well, we really need to find better alternatives to this just to get around!
your gallon is larger than ours it doesn't change much but 20mpg us is 24mpg imperial
@@Mister_Brown I thought there was a difference but really fuel consumption is just too much these days. We had cars in the 1980s that on a run could return around 40 to even 50 mpg with ease. Around town that was down to about 30. Emission control could be a factor in this increased consumption, as could be the trend to have bigger cars, but I just wish people would be happy with cars with smaller engines.
We love our carbon pumps
@@andic6676 oh i'm not saying it's forgaivable just that sometimes apples to apples comparisons aren't what they seem
also we do have efficient cars, my old corolla does over 45 us mpg on the highway and is literally impossible to get less than 28mpg no matter how poorly you drive it on flat ground. but even that has a 1.8 where in the uk it might have a 1.4 tops or and get better mileage still
@andi c For the catalytic converter to heat up and burn everything off, the engines run richer. I tune engines with an ECU reflasher and stand-alone wide band O2 sensor the engine are running at 13 to 1 AF when they run better at 14.7 to 1 even 16 to 1 but then pollute more cuase the cats don't heat up. I went to the extreme with a 5.3L V8 silverado and went from 13mpg to 20mpg only in summer temps, tho have it at 17 to 1 AF at idle.
Forgive my ignorance. But what’s wrong with just pulling what you can of that safety glass, then work on the rest? What about the safety glass could cause the tube to implode too?
If you consider that Subaru excessive noise-wise, there is a world of economy cars out there which will make this Subaru look average or above average. Just increase the volume on the audio system and live with that. At 160+km/h I can't hear my own thoughts and my way is to blast music to keep myself sane.
Lol. Subaru almost always takes first place in customer satisfaction charts in the auto mags. I ask myself "why?" since 40 years.
"#1 in initial quality" "Best pick im gartner's magic quadrant" all marketing hooplah paid for by the selling corp.
those era subarus always need wheel bearings and cv axles
Funny how many cars are out there now with absolutely zero redeeming qualities. Bloated on the outside but cramped on the inside, heavy and sluggish but with 'sporty' and rough riding suspension, an electronic throttle pedal that gives it 100% TPS at 5% pedal input to make it feel "spritely", overcomplicated trash engines and tires with tiny sidewalls for all their faults... But people buy them by the thousand.
crepe-tastic sparkle pony masterCard
Hope Chris's Diplomat was worth suffering every last detail~ the Brat was the Suburu I first drove, to me the flat H engine let them put the spare atop, but that one had twin timing belts~ was great in the snow, but noisey and clunky....I concur to your assessment of the subaru, another baddie is the suzuki suicide-kick~ evert catalytic converter needs changing to pass smog, rough ride~ never thought of such things
My first car was a Subaru XT6. Total pile of unreliable garbage that broke down every chance it got. More warning lights than a Boeing 707. Totally soured my opinion of Japanese cars for a long time. Had to pull the engine to get the spark plugs out.
I wonder if there is some chemical that you can put in there that breaks down the bond so you can remove it without heat.
I've been thinking 3 or 4 hot plates at 200F.
👍
I thought I was the only one who felt that way about Subaru's. Not all Subaru drivers are bad but many bad drivers drive Subaru's, at least in the East.
Shango66 are you from the red idians who they were in states before?
Because your accent is very diffirent and slow.
Anyway thank you
i had 2 sony trinitrons with crts as bad as that, and as you've said in the past, giving them a 'boost' can kill them i still have a black n white Teleton TH14 portable with even worse one, barely visible in the dark, hopefully eventually i might come across a reasonable state used one sometime, as its a bit of an unusual set to find here in the UK, it has 2 tuners vhf and uhf, and has a USA colour code mains cable and looks like it was originally set internally for 115v, now at 220v, BUT has UK 6mhz intercarrier sound i wonder if originally used at a US air base here?
If they are this bad, you won't loose much if you kill it with an attempted rejuvenation. I have successfully rejuvenated some Trinitrons with a brute-force method. They produced a good picture afterwards for about 100-300 hours, so very temporary. But if you use the set for 6 hours a year, that would be enough... If you have a semi-automatic rejuvenator which does multiple cycles on each gun (but gun selection is manual), you should stop the rejuvenation after the first cycle on each gun. Use the lowest rejuvenation current, or the cathode cleaning function first, if available.
The method I used for the Trinitrons and any other tubes (before I had a rejuvenator) was to put the 230V mains through a series 40-60W light bulb and a 1N4007 diode in between the cathode and G1 (the diode cathode facing towards G1, so it gets only positive half-cycles), heat them up slowly to 8-9V, and turn on the power. Nice red-blue fireworks inside the gun, and most tubes revived. To Trinitrons, I used 25-40W bulb, for other tubes with beefier cathodes, I mostly used 60W a bulb.
In fact, this method killed less tube for me than my current B&K 490B tester... The three cycles is does is too much and each cycle is too long. I started to get much better results after I started to stop the rejuvenation before the 2nd cycle started. It has a 25mA and a 50mA rejuvenation current setting, I want to modify it so it will have a 12.5mA option as well. I haven't tried to rejuvenate Trinirons with this tester yet, but I would start with 12.5mA, knowing how many beefier tubes this tester killed even at 25mA.
shango , save that safty glass c.r.t. goo to make some (deck la tay) cream for the ladies . let them rub some of that on there chest and see the age lines just disappear right before there eyes. lol
He'll make his own batch for the ladies.
@@johnnytacokleinschmidt515 i am sure the ladies will love a nice fresh batch of shango's two ball compound for there (DECK LA TAY) care.
I wonder why the red gun is always the one that shows more signs of wear, even on "new" in-line gun crts