I found the biggest disadvantage of a tool swap system to be the different Z-heights between each tool. Until you casually added the end-stop at the top... Nice work!
I don't want to be the guy who always complain on something, but the tool Z-offset adjustment really could have been implemented in the replaceable plates. Similar way of how quick replaceable tool holders work on a lathe (called Italian tool holder here). This way you could set the machine home zero to some sensible height, then you could adjust all your tools individually to zero by mechanical means. By the way I started designing this kind of system a year before, but I abandoned it because other important projects came forward... I planned a connector in, instead of pogo pins tho...
@@filipegervasio1956 I don't have BL Touch on mine as I believe that it is not needed in a proper system. You still have to mechanically adjust the Z-offset inside the tool, be it a toolchanged or fixed kind so the nozzle touches the bed when the BLTouch triggers. But if you have an otherwise good (flat) bed, and a stable enough frame then it will be just a "mobile Z endswitch". A killer idea would be an automatic tool offset measurement, I mean, something that measures the nozzle tip and calibrates it for you (this thing exists for CNC milling machines). It would really save time when just replacing nozzles, and in this case when automatically changing tools.
I'm kinda surprised they haven't added a digital serial# IC to the plates, so it could auto-detect the tool attached. Tiny ID IC's are really cheap and clock out a code that can be read by an MCU (e.g. with the available GPIO on many boards). The rest would just be adding a check to the firmware start so it can auto load the appropriate settings/offsets. I guess an end user could add it to the screw terminals, would require 1 GPIO, power, and gnd.
I was also wondering why nobody added a one-wire EEPROM yet. Could be the game changer to use the system without the need of g-code macros. I see this at our makerspace. After a reboot the settings for the buildplate (textured/flat PEI) are reset, no one cares to push the button before printing, even if they flipped the flex plate themself. Seems like I need to write an OctoPrint Plugin for that... Using an EEPROM would allow the system to check which adapter is installed and set the necessary options accordingly.
Great review and adapter plates for it! Also very good idea to use macros on Duet for changing settings. 👏 ..I was waiting for the soldering tips for inserts, just ordered a set 🤘😎
I would love to have some heat insert soldering iron tips for TS100/Piecil style Soldering Irons. Those would probably sell well considering I cant get them anywhere.
I remember Lulzbot having a tool head system where you release one screw and bada-bing, you can swap for a dual extruder or a high-flow extruder. If this works like it says on the tin, you can install it on an Ender 3 and still save a lot of money compared to a TAZ.
This, combined with a module equipped with an E3D Revo hotend, would be a really good single-machine, multiple purposes setup that takes a minimal space.
Stopped the video and immediately went to your store to check out those soldering tips. Haven't found need for inserts on my own designs but have used regular nuts a couple times, and those tips would be great! If I weren't... Broke...
Great review - what would be a very handy enhancement would be to use a pogo pin to read serial data off a serial memory chip on the tool to get the ID# of the tool to automatically run the correct setup macro.
Long time watcher and subscriber and finally was able to order your inserts and solder adapters. Looking forward to getting these. They are going to make my prints so much more functional. Thanks!
Thanks for spending so much time getting this product working to give us a review. As a non-tinkerer, I'd be more likely to buy this if it were already integrated into a printer and I could buy fully assembled tools.
Nice review! The use of pogo pins with a strongly latching system seems like an excellent idea. As you mentioned, not for everyone, but for those who like to test and tinker and try new things, it makes swapping parts much easier and more pleasant. At the very least, being able to swap to a new print-head when on a deadline, and you have a bad clog might be reason enough for some people.
I've been looking into a tool changing system for my ender 3 and this is a great option. My idea is to have a laser engraver and cnc for electronics pcb and now that you mentioned the vinyl cutter is a great simple idea. Space is in short supply for me and having one machine do multiple tasks would be a better solution instead of multiple machines. And as the cost of this system is very close to a complete 3d printer as you mentioned it makes deciding on priorities and needs very important
Nice work as always Stefan! 👍🏽👍🏽 I was waiting for such a review… to decide that I don’t want this mod 😆 The loss of build space, the diminishing returns and the high cost are what brings me to this conclusion. As you said this isn’t for everyone, and even an avid modder like myself cannot find a proper justification for this. And this is coming from one who spent hundreds of $$$ on modding an Ender 5 in every possible way possible, including CoreXY conversion…
More competition hit the market for my tool swapping system, and they get better and better, and more and more expensive. My tool swapping system (I print them myself) costs me with electric terminals around 10 USD plus some 4-5 USD per individual tool terminals, swap time for ready fed with filament tools is about 2 mintues, I have being using mine for 3 years now on both machines (I have a heavilly modified gantry sling bed and a heavilly modified Core XY, both 350x350x400 mm printable cube capacity), interchanging tools sometimes 2 or 3 times a day, I run on the same machine 3mm filament and 1.75 mm filament swapping two different heads, I also use PLA printehead (PTFE tube in thorat down to the nozzle) and non PLA printhead (Full metal thorat for high temp filaments) on the same machine, no G code add-ons needed, no height change problems per individual tool, all my tools nozzle are at the same perfect height due to my calibration mount add-on tool. Just unplug the first tool, plug in the second tool, load the gcode sliced and hit print. So yes they hit the market before me, and expensive, but I trust that selling my version as a printable file STL bunch of parts for let say 10 USD might still be appealing. Soon to put the portal online to make this available to the open source community. Your thoughts?
the real problema for me was the price... today I'm using the BTT Hermit Crab + klipper/mainsail and just saving diff config files and activating accordingly
That zoom on the Nylon Edge was CSI Style xD. One thing came to my mind when you printed the Flex-Stefan, if i print exeptional high parts i always do it so that the more stable axe is in line with the moving print bed - in that case both legs should be in line with it. I mean like you would stand yourself in a stop-and-go Train or Bus.
I have a CR6-SE that is proving nearly impossible to resurrect after the original board burned, with various parts not working properly it looks like I'm going to have rebuild a lot of the electrical. If I do have to go through all that I'll definitely look into using this.
That kind of wire connector requires crimped ferrules to avoid issues. Note that all ender 3 need the motherboard wiring to be changed to ferrules too or at some point connectors will burn, and fan wiring to be changed, as by default it is wired in common with the parts cooling fan ... meaning you will kill your motherboard printing anything without 80% parts cooling
I do think this is a good design, and maybe when Wam Bam have recovered their development costs they are in a better position to lower the price a little to make it more attractive to hobbiest users who maybe just want to have a couple of cheap hot ends with to make cleaning and unclogging easier,, or different things like vinyl cutters or pen holders.Other designs I have seen seem more targetted at print farms and professional userrs, which means they are perhaps more robust, but they are going to be inherently expensive because of this.
My use would be to switch between a Hot-End and laser engraving / Dremel with flexible hose (CNC) engraver. But also interested in looking for 3D printed setups for tool-swapping and a re-purposed D-SUB connector(s) (230v /5amp/pin rated). Running a Ender 3 PRO. (already customizing it after the first 5 prints, all the years of waiting for my own printer after using one at work: one i can customize to my own desires)
Would love to see how fast you could print with a without the tool system. If the added weight and overhang makes a difference. And would it fit a coreXY system?
Being CoreXY wouldn't change anything in how it works, unless you mean the mounting plate needing or not an adapter. If you're on the speedboat race gang then definitely not the tool of choice, but would be curious as well to see the impact, weight is easy to check but stiffness is interesting to know, it's pretty good plastic but still plastic after all.
This would be really cool if you could attach multiple heads that could move somewhat independently (not perfect as you do have to worry about parts crashing), with some sort of sensor to auto adjust parameters better, custom heads that have multiple tools in them, and or wireless communication instead of cables so cable less of hassle
I already have two M4 screws attaching the toolhead to the carriage that are easy to undo from the back and don't eat up space... i'd rather have something i can place atop the motor to manage the cable, to unplug/plug easily. And a bed-size cutting mat!
Can you review about mahor xyz pellet extruder, from mounting in different kind of printers and programming to printing? I like to buy more mahor, thank you cnc kitchen i like all your videos
Stefan, Great video, but while showing them many times in your video, you made no mention (or link in the description to MyMiniFactory) to my "MUTANT V2 Workstation Stand and Mounts" where you showcase all the hotend, extruders, and other tools sitting proud on your turntables. Also the MUTANT Workstation Stand is great to hold your MUTANT mobile plate and extruder/hotend while you work on wiring it up or performing maintenance. I would greatly appreciate it if you could at least link to my design on MyMiniFactory in your description..
I'm super sorry, this wasn't intentional and I missed it yesterday when I put the description together. Have been adding it now and here's the link to the Workstation stand as well: www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-mutant-workstation-mounts-149200
Aaaand of course the LE tips are sold out already. Not that they would have fit my soldering iron anyway... 😅 Interesting system, but there's probably still quite a bit of room for improvement. And it also sounds like a rather niche product to me.
Hey Stefan, super cool video! Do you maybe have more information on how to get the pellet extruder running? Also is an adapter needed to put the pellet extruder on the mobile plate? If so could you link the file? Or can it directly be screwed onto the mobile plate?
Please tell me you're going to do a more in-depth video on the Pellet extruder? I can't find much info on it (and your link goes to the Omniadrop instead) I love the idea of a pellet extruder on a hobby sized printer.
This is a niche low-volume product so it'll naturally be relatively expensive, since the human cost can't be ammortized through volume or automation, and they don't benefit from economies of scale.
@@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart i mean i get all that and i'm not trying to knock on the product at all. it's more the fact that the intended market for this product seems to be home consumer, and at that price point you are alienating a lot of the home and hobbyist consumers.
I would love to see a super fast direct drive build utilizing hybrid stepping motors particularly neodymium! Lightweight(ish) and quiet! Maybe perfect for a Voron build? What do y’all think?
Passt auf Lötkolben, die T18 oder M900 Spitzen verwenden (unter Anderem Hakko, Lonovo und ein Haufen billige China Lötkolben). Schau Dir am besten die Bilder im Store an.
The idea is cool, but I would have used just a common connector (pinheader or D-Sub) for which there are readily available contacts. I mean, some mechanical fixture of holding a stock IDC or something pinheader and it's also stock receptacle side. Less weight and less contact points than wire-terminal-pcb-pogo-pcb-terminal-wire. I'd like to mention that when someone uses thermocouple on the hotend, and also uses chamber heating (which can vary greatly the environmental temperature this connection has to work in), it is a good idea to verify the temperature measurement error, if any. (due to cold-joint temperature variations)
@@gabiold A thermocouple would be greatly hampered by any in-between connection indeed, the whole matching cable and it's length is part of how it works. Better would be to have the thermocouple "driver" (or how do you call it?) on the toolhead itself and then run it's data lines through the mount.
@@Kalvinjj Ideally, in proper industrial automation one have to use a special cable, one made from the same material as the TC itself. And connectors also. This way the cold joint compensation has to be done only at the receiver side and the length and where the cable goes through does not disturb the measurement.
@@gabiold Yes, exactly. Hence I think in that situation the receiver should be on the removable tool head and then it just transmits data out that isn't affected. Temperature near the tool head and thus the receiver could be something to be mindful about (as is usual for a thermocouple), but then again if that's a problem, the plastic structure would be as well.
I wonder how easy it would be to put a ceramic extruder on one of those plates? I know the Stoneflower3d Ceramic extruder can fit on a delta machine, but how would it work with the drop-in system?
I got a idea for this but i am not sure if there is ernough pins... My idea is that each tool is a dd with abl and a small storage device with the data on it.. so when you plug it in a small little python programm sends gcodes to the klipper firmware
Hmm not sure how ultimaker does that, i dont know much about ultimaker... I have a question for you cnckitchen how many pins are empty when you have a dd Setup with abl?
Thanks for the great tips on the firmware side of things as well, I have tool changing on my machine and always wondered how I could do something like using a Volcano on the machine with a big nozzle while keeping another smaller nozzle and hotend for more precise stuff, but didn't know how to configure it properly. Mine uses a completely custom system, using DuPont headers mounted with long pins on the other side (female DuPont on the machine, long headers on the tool), made this for the 3 main functions: 3D printing, laser engraving and light duty CNC engraver/router (tho since my machine uses lead screws I would bet it's got a decent performance at the engraving, gotta do it one day I got the time...). Was pretty damn convenient when experimenting with paint extrusion with a positive cavity pump (which the machine itself printed!).
the vinyl cutter and laser options are tempting for sure. Great review. Anyone know if it would attach to a prusa mk3s+ okay? Could maybe handle tool tip z height with just another live z offset steel plate setting.
Was eyeballing the CAN version of the hermit crab myself, but then realized both options lock me to an ecosystem I’m not sure I want to be in. That, and the loss of Y-build area (even though minor)
@@CNCKitchen hell yeah! It'd be cool to print Ultem with these, as the pellets are super cheap vs the filament. I always wanted to buy one of these for an idea I have for a 500$~(minus pellet extruder) voron 0 sized Ultem printer that theoretically goes up to 150c chamber That'd be too expensive for me to try tho :D
I've been looking for some good inserts to use in a project, and didn't like the look of the ones I found on Amazon, so I've ordered a couple sets. Couldn't order the solder tips, however, as they don't fit my station (Weller WESD51). Might want to look into whether or not it's worth supporting that format.
Aaaaah I thought I finally had found a somewhat local retailer for the heated inserts the Voron parts use but looks like the one you sell are not the M3x5x4 they recommend but M3x5.7x4 :(
These inserts are optimised for torque out and pull out strength... i expect that Voron uses inserts purely to improve servicing, so you don't end up with chewed up threads or finicky inserted nuts, so you might as well just pick the cheapest ones.
@@CNCKitchen I wonder if there is some sort of connector out there that you insert a ribbon in to one side and then it just has connector terminals on the other side?
Sounds fun but there's soooo many variables that can go wrong ... and the cost isn't that attractive either. I'd see this being a potential option for a very expensive printer, but if you have a €170 Ender 3 Pro and then €100+ worth of kit to swap heads not to mention paying a small fortune for the different heads ... yikes. And that's without the work involved to get it working, the tweaking, the firmware, etc. etc.
I would like to see a easier and cheaper solution. We all have 3D printers, why not design and print our own quick changer. 2 screws and 2 dowel pins and done.
I think it's interesting but I feel like Nylon is a bad choice for ensuring rigidity. Also the issues with all the layers of adapters and such adds a lot of extra mass and flex that is bad for ensuring good printing. I think this needs some sort of V3 to reduce the number of adapters stacking and some steel/aluminum/carbon fiber models. Honestly, it might be convenient for some things but I definitely don't think your reviews of nozzles should use it just because it adds more variables to the print quality.
The fiber-reinforced Nylon is an Industry standard and it's seriously stiff but lightweight. I think metals would for once increase the price and secondly add a significant amount of weight with less gain in stiffness.
ah, but the REAL trick, can I put one on my BIG 5x10ft CNC and make it do all those things? cuz making a massive cnc do 3d printing and laser cutting as WELL as cnc cutting this beastie could be very helpful... something tells me the massive watercooled spindle it uses probably wouldn't like to be mounted to that tiny plastic plate...lol.
I found the biggest disadvantage of a tool swap system to be the different Z-heights between each tool. Until you casually added the end-stop at the top... Nice work!
Piezo/fsr as sensor would help with that
I don't want to be the guy who always complain on something, but the tool Z-offset adjustment really could have been implemented in the replaceable plates. Similar way of how quick replaceable tool holders work on a lathe (called Italian tool holder here).
This way you could set the machine home zero to some sensible height, then you could adjust all your tools individually to zero by mechanical means.
By the way I started designing this kind of system a year before, but I abandoned it because other important projects came forward... I planned a connector in, instead of pogo pins tho...
I use biqu's hermit crab tool changer each with a bl touch, a bit expensive yes, but with macros on Reprap firmware the z-offset is not a problem :)
@@filipegervasio1956 I don't have BL Touch on mine as I believe that it is not needed in a proper system. You still have to mechanically adjust the Z-offset inside the tool, be it a toolchanged or fixed kind so the nozzle touches the bed when the BLTouch triggers.
But if you have an otherwise good (flat) bed, and a stable enough frame then it will be just a "mobile Z endswitch".
A killer idea would be an automatic tool offset measurement, I mean, something that measures the nozzle tip and calibrates it for you (this thing exists for CNC milling machines). It would really save time when just replacing nozzles, and in this case when automatically changing tools.
@proper printing when will you make a new video again? I loved your mods of your CR-10 S5! :)
Would love a video on that pellet extruder, looks fascinating.
Yeah that looks interesting. The hopper was so small, I wonder how much print time you get before having to refill
@@anonony9081 Most pellet extruders have a system to automatically drop more pellets into the hopper
Please please pellet extruder reviee
Just looked it up, at $600 I'd rather have a couple ender 3s over one of those.
I'm kinda surprised they haven't added a digital serial# IC to the plates, so it could auto-detect the tool attached. Tiny ID IC's are really cheap and clock out a code that can be read by an MCU (e.g. with the available GPIO on many boards). The rest would just be adding a check to the firmware start so it can auto load the appropriate settings/offsets.
I guess an end user could add it to the screw terminals, would require 1 GPIO, power, and gnd.
I was also wondering why nobody added a one-wire EEPROM yet. Could be the game changer to use the system without the need of g-code macros.
I see this at our makerspace. After a reboot the settings for the buildplate (textured/flat PEI) are reset, no one cares to push the button before printing, even if they flipped the flex plate themself. Seems like I need to write an OctoPrint Plugin for that...
Using an EEPROM would allow the system to check which adapter is installed and set the necessary options accordingly.
Custom menu items and macros in Marlin help here
@@christophkiefer doesn't help if the users are too lazy ;)
I love the Universal Pellet Extruder from Mahor. We need more details about that V4 and a full review.
I hope to finally have a platform which I can use to properly work with it!
Please more reviee and tesr prints
@@CNCKitchen hi, any news on this, it would be really fun to see a full video about it :)
Great review and adapter plates for it! Also very good idea to use macros on Duet for changing settings. 👏
..I was waiting for the soldering tips for inserts, just ordered a set 🤘😎
Thanks man!
tell your brother to upload a new video, its been a month! xD
I would love to have some heat insert soldering iron tips for TS100/Piecil style Soldering Irons. Those would probably sell well considering I cant get them anywhere.
We'll look into that!
@@thaphreak There's a pinned comment?
Dat satisfying click! I'm sold 15 seconds in.
I remember Lulzbot having a tool head system where you release one screw and bada-bing, you can swap for a dual extruder or a high-flow extruder. If this works like it says on the tin, you can install it on an Ender 3 and still save a lot of money compared to a TAZ.
This, combined with a module equipped with an E3D Revo hotend, would be a really good single-machine, multiple purposes setup that takes a minimal space.
Congrats on your store! I immediately bought some products to support your awesome contributions to the 3D print community.
Thanks! Highly appreciated!
Das ist PERFEKT!
Stopped the video and immediately went to your store to check out those soldering tips. Haven't found need for inserts on my own designs but have used regular nuts a couple times, and those tips would be great!
If I weren't... Broke...
Great review - what would be a very handy enhancement would be to use a pogo pin to read serial data off a serial memory chip on the tool to get the ID# of the tool to automatically run the correct setup macro.
Good idea! Ultimaker does that is a very similar fashion.
I would love if you could do a dedicated review of that Mahor extruder! We’re thinking about getting one for our Gigabot.
i bought it a few months ago cause it has enough wiring ports/pins for 2 stepper motors etc, so you could do dual extrusion etc on a swap
Long time watcher and subscriber and finally was able to order your inserts and solder adapters. Looking forward to getting these. They are going to make my prints so much more functional. Thanks!
Awesome, thank you!
Aww, I got excited when you said you wanted to use the Sidewinder! Kickass printer.
Aw, I got excited when you said you wanted to use the Sidewinder! Kickass printer.
wow. I am amazed. I don't know if I will ever get to the point were I would need it but it still looks great.
Thanks for spending so much time getting this product working to give us a review. As a non-tinkerer, I'd be more likely to buy this if it were already integrated into a printer and I could buy fully assembled tools.
I think it could be pretty useful. The ability to change from bowden to direct on the fly is appealing.
nice video.the solutions of Hemera are not far enough you can use volcano hotend or linear rail. Just an idea, the tool swap for me is very amazing
Nice review! The use of pogo pins with a strongly latching system seems like an excellent idea. As you mentioned, not for everyone, but for those who like to test and tinker and try new things, it makes swapping parts much easier and more pleasant. At the very least, being able to swap to a new print-head when on a deadline, and you have a bad clog might be reason enough for some people.
Excellent product to give new life to old or cheap printers.
It may have its downsides but that is so flipping cool!
God damn it, just started designing a machine like this. Amazing video as always
I've been looking into a tool changing system for my ender 3 and this is a great option. My idea is to have a laser engraver and cnc for electronics pcb and now that you mentioned the vinyl cutter is a great simple idea. Space is in short supply for me and having one machine do multiple tasks would be a better solution instead of multiple machines. And as the cost of this system is very close to a complete 3d printer as you mentioned it makes deciding on priorities and needs very important
Loved this review! We have a mutant v2 as well and I definitely like it. Those Macro shots are INSANE! Nice work!
Nice work as always Stefan! 👍🏽👍🏽
I was waiting for such a review… to decide that I don’t want this mod 😆
The loss of build space, the diminishing returns and the high cost are what brings me to this conclusion.
As you said this isn’t for everyone, and even an avid modder like myself cannot find a proper justification for this. And this is coming from one who spent hundreds of $$$ on modding an Ender 5 in every possible way possible, including CoreXY conversion…
+1
Great work as always
Thanks for sharing your hard work with all of us :-)
More competition hit the market for my tool swapping system, and they get better and better, and more and more expensive.
My tool swapping system (I print them myself) costs me with electric terminals around 10 USD plus some 4-5 USD per individual tool terminals, swap time for ready fed with filament tools is about 2 mintues, I have being using mine for 3 years now on both machines (I have a heavilly modified gantry sling bed and a heavilly modified Core XY, both 350x350x400 mm printable cube capacity), interchanging tools sometimes 2 or 3 times a day, I run on the same machine 3mm filament and 1.75 mm filament swapping two different heads, I also use PLA printehead (PTFE tube in thorat down to the nozzle) and non PLA printhead (Full metal thorat for high temp filaments) on the same machine, no G code add-ons needed, no height change problems per individual tool, all my tools nozzle are at the same perfect height due to my calibration mount add-on tool. Just unplug the first tool, plug in the second tool, load the gcode sliced and hit print.
So yes they hit the market before me, and expensive, but I trust that selling my version as a printable file STL bunch of parts for let say 10 USD might still be appealing. Soon to put the portal online to make this available to the open source community.
Your thoughts?
Unfortunately, the Limited Edition soldering tips are already SOLD OUT! Get the UNLIMITED tips and print your own case: geni.us/LESolderingTips
I think the Ts100/pinecil tips need to have an integrated heater..
But I would be interested in heat set tips for the pinecil as well!
I would also appreciate soldering tips compatible with Weller ET style tips. I guess this is another field with a thousand standards :D
I have an xchange system on my ender 3 that I absolutely love. I have a hardened all metal hotend, a volcano .6 one, and a dual extrusion one
the real problema for me was the price... today I'm using the BTT Hermit Crab + klipper/mainsail and just saving diff config files and activating accordingly
It is but I do understand that this isn't a mass market product which shows in it's price.
That zoom on the Nylon Edge was CSI Style xD.
One thing came to my mind when you printed the Flex-Stefan, if i print exeptional high parts i always do it so that the more stable axe is in line with the moving print bed - in that case both legs should be in line with it. I mean like you would stand yourself in a stop-and-go Train or Bus.
Enhance!
... and, good point!
I have a CR6-SE that is proving nearly impossible to resurrect after the original board burned, with various parts not working properly it looks like I'm going to have rebuild a lot of the electrical. If I do have to go through all that I'll definitely look into using this.
That kind of wire connector requires crimped ferrules to avoid issues. Note that all ender 3 need the motherboard wiring to be changed to ferrules too or at some point connectors will burn, and fan wiring to be changed, as by default it is wired in common with the parts cooling fan ... meaning you will kill your motherboard printing anything without 80% parts cooling
I do think this is a good design, and maybe when Wam Bam have recovered their development costs they are in a better position to lower the price a little to make it more attractive to hobbiest users who maybe just want to have a couple of cheap hot ends with to make cleaning and unclogging easier,, or different things like vinyl cutters or pen holders.Other designs I have seen seem more targetted at print farms and professional userrs, which means they are perhaps more robust, but they are going to be inherently expensive because of this.
My use would be to switch between a Hot-End and laser engraving / Dremel with flexible hose (CNC) engraver.
But also interested in looking for 3D printed setups for tool-swapping and a re-purposed D-SUB connector(s) (230v /5amp/pin rated).
Running a Ender 3 PRO. (already customizing it after the first 5 prints, all the years of waiting for my own printer after using one at work: one i can customize to my own desires)
I could use this in a small print farm for large fast prints with a pellet extruder, and high quality prints with a Biqu H2 V2
Please make a detailed video about the 3D filament extruder you made for recycling PLA!!
Missed out on getting a sign case, still ordered the soldering tips.
They are still going to be as useful and you can print you own case 😉
Would love to see how fast you could print with a without the tool system. If the added weight and overhang makes a difference. And would it fit a coreXY system?
Being CoreXY wouldn't change anything in how it works, unless you mean the mounting plate needing or not an adapter.
If you're on the speedboat race gang then definitely not the tool of choice, but would be curious as well to see the impact, weight is easy to check but stiffness is interesting to know, it's pretty good plastic but still plastic after all.
This would be really cool if you could attach multiple heads that could move somewhat independently (not perfect as you do have to worry about parts crashing), with some sort of sensor to auto adjust parameters better, custom heads that have multiple tools in them, and or wireless communication instead of cables so cable less of hassle
I already have two M4 screws attaching the toolhead to the carriage that are easy to undo from the back and don't eat up space... i'd rather have something i can place atop the motor to manage the cable, to unplug/plug easily.
And a bed-size cutting mat!
Always get a buzz from seeing my designs turn up in videos. That Hemera part cooling duct has been incredibly popular.
Great work there! Actually forgot to put the link in the description but will do that now!
“Wham bam, thank you mam.” 😉
Can you review about mahor xyz pellet extruder, from mounting in different kind of printers and programming to printing? I like to buy more mahor, thank you cnc kitchen i like all your videos
Stefan, Great video, but while showing them many times in your video, you made no mention (or link in the description to MyMiniFactory) to my "MUTANT V2 Workstation Stand and Mounts" where you showcase all the hotend, extruders, and other tools sitting proud on your turntables. Also the MUTANT Workstation Stand is great to hold your MUTANT mobile plate and extruder/hotend while you work on wiring it up or performing maintenance. I would greatly appreciate it if you could at least link to my design on MyMiniFactory in your description..
I'm super sorry, this wasn't intentional and I missed it yesterday when I put the description together. Have been adding it now and here's the link to the Workstation stand as well: www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-mutant-workstation-mounts-149200
@@CNCKitchen Thanks very much!
Great video as always. Congratulations!
Aaaand of course the LE tips are sold out already. Not that they would have fit my soldering iron anyway... 😅
Interesting system, but there's probably still quite a bit of room for improvement. And it also sounds like a rather niche product to me.
Hey Stefan, super cool video! Do you maybe have more information on how to get the pellet extruder running? Also is an adapter needed to put the pellet extruder on the mobile plate? If so could you link the file? Or can it directly be screwed onto the mobile plate?
Thanks, amazing Video quality
Hello! Where did you get pellet extruder?
Please tell me you're going to do a more in-depth video on the Pellet extruder? I can't find much info on it (and your link goes to the Omniadrop instead)
I love the idea of a pellet extruder on a hobby sized printer.
I probably will! Sorry for the bad link - just changed it. Unfortunately most of the information on the Mahor extruder is in Spanish.
Very cool idea!
It can be handy in certain applications!
if you guys could make the threaded insert tips for the TS100 interface, that'd be great for my PineCil as well :P
such a cool product, it's just so incredibly expensive, for some plastic and pogo pins.
This is a niche low-volume product so it'll naturally be relatively expensive, since the human cost can't be ammortized through volume or automation, and they don't benefit from economies of scale.
@@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart i mean i get all that and i'm not trying to knock on the product at all.
it's more the fact that the intended market for this product seems to be home consumer, and at that price point you are alienating a lot of the home and hobbyist consumers.
this is awesome👍
Really looking forward to your review of the phaetus rapido hotend !
On thé ender 3 ans 3 pro can move foward de Y aluminium profile unscrew 2 of 4 screw on thé bottom of profiles
Good point!
You should sell the Voron standard M3x5x4 threaded insert in the store! :)
Agreed, the Voron inserts would sell well.
DO A FULL VIDEO ON THE MAHOR PELLET EXTRUDER PLEASE, THANK
Does pellet extruder mahor print asa, abs, nylon, carbon fiber, and etc?
Hanzhen harmonic drive gear , over 30 years experience , robot joint , strain wave reducer
Cool store of yours. got me some parts :)
I need one for experiments.
personally i would have liked to see a version withe few more low power connection for optional added functionality.
I would love to see a super fast direct drive build utilizing hybrid stepping motors particularly neodymium! Lightweight(ish) and quiet! Maybe perfect for a Voron build? What do y’all think?
Love your videos!
Für welche Lötkolben sind die Lötspitzen?
Passt auf Lötkolben, die T18 oder M900 Spitzen verwenden (unter Anderem Hakko, Lonovo und ein Haufen billige China Lötkolben). Schau Dir am besten die Bilder im Store an.
i literally just bought off-brand threaded inserts last night before this video came out.
oh well. odd coincidence though
Sorry to hear that. Maybe check back once you used yours up😉
@@CNCKitchen haha. It's like a 1000 pack. I better get to designing!
have you / would you do a review of the mahor pellet extruder? Ive been looking at for months but reviews are very rare
I finally have the platform to properly work with it and hope to produce some content.
Please use ferrules with screw terminals. Using them like you show in the video, on a vibrating machine, is a nightmare waiting to happen.
The idea is cool, but I would have used just a common connector (pinheader or D-Sub) for which there are readily available contacts. I mean, some mechanical fixture of holding a stock IDC or something pinheader and it's also stock receptacle side.
Less weight and less contact points than wire-terminal-pcb-pogo-pcb-terminal-wire.
I'd like to mention that when someone uses thermocouple on the hotend, and also uses chamber heating (which can vary greatly the environmental temperature this connection has to work in), it is a good idea to verify the temperature measurement error, if any.
(due to cold-joint temperature variations)
@@gabiold A thermocouple would be greatly hampered by any in-between connection indeed, the whole matching cable and it's length is part of how it works.
Better would be to have the thermocouple "driver" (or how do you call it?) on the toolhead itself and then run it's data lines through the mount.
@@Kalvinjj Ideally, in proper industrial automation one have to use a special cable, one made from the same material as the TC itself. And connectors also. This way the cold joint compensation has to be done only at the receiver side and the length and where the cable goes through does not disturb the measurement.
@@gabiold Yes, exactly. Hence I think in that situation the receiver should be on the removable tool head and then it just transmits data out that isn't affected.
Temperature near the tool head and thus the receiver could be something to be mindful about (as is usual for a thermocouple), but then again if that's a problem, the plastic structure would be as well.
I wonder how easy it would be to put a ceramic extruder on one of those plates? I know the Stoneflower3d Ceramic extruder can fit on a delta machine, but how would it work with the drop-in system?
We have mounted a Wasp ceramic extruder and made some of the coolest porcelain prints!
Can you please review the Mahor Pellet Extruder? There aren't really any reviews available, and it is to expensive to purchase just to try it out.
Where do you get them screwdriver kits from?
I got a idea for this but i am not sure if there is ernough pins... My idea is that each tool is a dd with abl and a small storage device with the data on it.. so when you plug it in a small little python programm sends gcodes to the klipper firmware
A bit like what Ultimaker is doing with their Printcores.
Hmm not sure how ultimaker does that, i dont know much about ultimaker... I have a question for you cnckitchen how many pins are empty when you have a dd Setup with abl?
MAHOR V4 REVIEEEEEEEEW COMING UP???!? PLS?!!11!1!11!!!!!???
Wavering whether to buy...
Thanks for the great tips on the firmware side of things as well, I have tool changing on my machine and always wondered how I could do something like using a Volcano on the machine with a big nozzle while keeping another smaller nozzle and hotend for more precise stuff, but didn't know how to configure it properly.
Mine uses a completely custom system, using DuPont headers mounted with long pins on the other side (female DuPont on the machine, long headers on the tool), made this for the 3 main functions: 3D printing, laser engraving and light duty CNC engraver/router (tho since my machine uses lead screws I would bet it's got a decent performance at the engraving, gotta do it one day I got the time...). Was pretty damn convenient when experimenting with paint extrusion with a positive cavity pump (which the machine itself printed!).
any plans on a Phaetus Rapido review?
hi, two years later how it works?
Thanks for adding the paid promotion flag.
Necessary by law in Germany.
the vinyl cutter and laser options are tempting for sure. Great review. Anyone know if it would attach to a prusa mk3s+ okay? Could maybe handle tool tip z height with just another live z offset steel plate setting.
This is nice but i think the hermit crab with CAN bus and metal plates is a better deal
Was eyeballing the CAN version of the hermit crab myself, but then realized both options lock me to an ecosystem I’m not sure I want to be in. That, and the loss of Y-build area (even though minor)
Do you have a video on your pellet extruder?!
Not yet - interested?
@@CNCKitchen hell yeah!
It'd be cool to print Ultem with these, as the pellets are super cheap vs the filament. I always wanted to buy one of these for an idea I have for a 500$~(minus pellet extruder) voron 0 sized Ultem printer that theoretically goes up to 150c chamber
That'd be too expensive for me to try tho :D
@@CNCKitchen btw I did see a pellet extruder capable of retracting too, it was cool!
I've been looking for some good inserts to use in a project, and didn't like the look of the ones I found on Amazon, so I've ordered a couple sets. Couldn't order the solder tips, however, as they don't fit my station (Weller WESD51). Might want to look into whether or not it's worth supporting that format.
We are taking a look at it but you can get temperature controlled soldering irons where our tips fit for less than $20.
Aaaaah I thought I finally had found a somewhat local retailer for the heated inserts the Voron parts use but looks like the one you sell are not the M3x5x4 they recommend but M3x5.7x4 :(
Our short inserts M3x3x4 should probably do the job as well.
@@CNCKitchen Yes, the M3x3x4 should work, but suspect Voron spec M3x5x4 inserts would sell quite well.
These inserts are optimised for torque out and pull out strength... i expect that Voron uses inserts purely to improve servicing, so you don't end up with chewed up threads or finicky inserted nuts, so you might as well just pick the cheapest ones.
so, can this hold zero after you uninstall then reinstall? how good is it?
When tested the Mutant V2 was capable of repeatable Z location within less than 0.01mm.
@@jamestongue6056 who tested it?
Its ironic that the Sidewinder X1 was not suitable because that 6020 extrusion would be the most stable for something like this xD
It definitely is. I thought about changing the wiring from ribbon cable to wiring wiring harness but that would seriously be a pity!
@@CNCKitchen I wonder if there is some sort of connector out there that you insert a ribbon in to one side and then it just has connector terminals on the other side?
Sounds fun but there's soooo many variables that can go wrong ... and the cost isn't that attractive either. I'd see this being a potential option for a very expensive printer, but if you have a €170 Ender 3 Pro and then €100+ worth of kit to swap heads not to mention paying a small fortune for the different heads ... yikes. And that's without the work involved to get it working, the tweaking, the firmware, etc. etc.
Totally agreed.
Hello Stefan! i noticed you're using Reprap firmware, have you tried input shaping on the duet?
I have tried it on my Cetus when it was still in beta and didn't have a lot of success. I really want to try it on a CoreXY at some point.
that’s amazing! are you planning to do a rapido review in the future?
Yes, I am.
@@CNCKitchen :D
I wonder if it could be installed on a ender 5
Of course it can, have it on mine.
I would like to see a easier and cheaper solution.
We all have 3D printers, why not design and print our own quick changer.
2 screws and 2 dowel pins and done.
Missing the "Paid Promotion" flag for the video.
Does anyone know if there is a way to put a bl-touch on this
I think it's interesting but I feel like Nylon is a bad choice for ensuring rigidity. Also the issues with all the layers of adapters and such adds a lot of extra mass and flex that is bad for ensuring good printing. I think this needs some sort of V3 to reduce the number of adapters stacking and some steel/aluminum/carbon fiber models.
Honestly, it might be convenient for some things but I definitely don't think your reviews of nozzles should use it just because it adds more variables to the print quality.
The fiber-reinforced Nylon is an Industry standard and it's seriously stiff but lightweight. I think metals would for once increase the price and secondly add a significant amount of weight with less gain in stiffness.
please. someone to provide me with a tutorial for the friware or the program to handle the cut plotter. on the ender 3 thanks
ah, but the REAL trick, can I put one on my BIG 5x10ft CNC and make it do all those things? cuz making a massive cnc do 3d printing and laser cutting as WELL as cnc cutting this beastie could be very helpful...
something tells me the massive watercooled spindle it uses probably wouldn't like to be mounted to that tiny plastic plate...lol.