Hi, God damn, I love your post! It was awosome. New Mobula6 looked damn good! By the way, your recorded video was pretty good without much noise or break up with analogue. Can you tell me what goggles and reciever are you using? I am using skyzone o4o pro and stock reciver for my mini whoops but there is much noise and break-up. Thank you bro!
Never locktight a motor screw, Just buy spare screws. I lose mine alot, you can buy like 1000 pieces of them for about $5, When you land nice and flat you can hear the metal screws click, there taking alot of the impact. M1.4 x 4mm works, you can spend more money for titanium to save on weight. Make sure they aren't countersunk tho. Countersunk screws would start the 4mm measurement from the top of the head. I made that mistake recently.
Just use the trimm Funktion. Disarm first than full throttel and right stick for trimming out. Lets say your drone fly backwards than you use pich forward and so on. 1 sec of stick deflection is about 1 point of trimming. Happy flying everybody. PS i thing JB has a video for calibration!!!
I use a post level to set my drone on for calibration. Generally they’re taller than 6 inches which allows for the cord to point down. I also get a physical indication, in the level, that the craft is actually on a flat surface.
You gotta be careful with lactate, it is plastics. When you say "Loctite all screws", someone might accidentally Loctite the canopy screws. The best practice is to check for loose screws periodically especially after big crashes.
I know it seems counterintuitive, but if you turn down your VTX power indoors, you can actually improve your signal because reflected signals can cause interference, especially a higher power levels.
my mobula sux even tho it flys better than meteor65 the camera has a weird white balance make it hard to see from shade to sun the wobbles makes everything looks like u fly on mushrooms and on top of that a have static from motor noize to make it even harder to see, also sometimes after light bumb on the wall i get failsafe error and it disarms it self, to me seems like happymodel is not doing the best work on quality control
BT2.0 lipos fit easily in the A30 connectors. You didn't need to de-solder and put on a the BT2.0 connector there
Nice video, btw analog in the office looks really nice quality
Nice vid bro.
4:45 - you can fit BT2.0 plug into A30 - it goes in smooth so no need to solder/resolder.
Thanks for the info!
Im new to ELRS and this is exactly what I needed to see to get mine setup! thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Daaaamn bro! Awesome video!! Love how detailed you are!!!
i was so focused on your video that i was filling my cup on the side it spilled everywhere 😂
😅
Hi, God damn, I love your post! It was awosome. New Mobula6 looked damn good! By the way, your recorded video was pretty good without much noise or break up with analogue. Can you tell me what goggles and reciever are you using? I am using skyzone o4o pro and stock reciver for my mini whoops but there is much noise and break-up. Thank you bro!
I am using the HD Zero headset with the TBS Fusion analog video receiver module. Its a good combo!
Never locktight a motor screw, Just buy spare screws. I lose mine alot, you can buy like 1000 pieces of them for about $5, When you land nice and flat you can hear the metal screws click, there taking alot of the impact.
M1.4 x 4mm works, you can spend more money for titanium to save on weight. Make sure they aren't countersunk tho.
Countersunk screws would start the 4mm measurement from the top of the head. I made that mistake recently.
RIP 3/4 motors of my first build. Screws ripped off locktite to the motor
Good info. I haven't had an issue with lock tight on my drones before. But better safe than sorry. Thanks for the advice.
@@CG-RC if you have dexterous hands & allocate the correct amount it bet it works.
Just use the trimm Funktion. Disarm first than full throttel and right stick for trimming out. Lets say your drone fly backwards than you use pich forward and so on. 1 sec of stick deflection is about 1 point of trimming. Happy flying everybody. PS i thing JB has a video for calibration!!!
I use a post level to set my drone on for calibration. Generally they’re taller than 6 inches which allows for the cord to point down. I also get a physical indication, in the level, that the craft is actually on a flat surface.
You gotta be careful with lactate, it is plastics. When you say "Loctite all screws", someone might accidentally Loctite the canopy screws. The best practice is to check for loose screws periodically especially after big crashes.
very cool
I know it seems counterintuitive, but if you turn down your VTX power indoors, you can actually improve your signal because reflected signals can cause interference, especially a higher power levels.
Thats the Eco
you dont need to change that plug
it holds bt2.0 in tight. you want it.
Cool, I didn't know that. I guess I should have tried it first. lol. Thanks for the feed back!
Wobble wobble
my mobula sux even tho it flys better than meteor65 the camera has a weird white balance make it hard to see from shade to sun the wobbles makes everything looks like u fly on mushrooms and on top of that a have static from motor noize to make it even harder to see, also sometimes after light bumb on the wall i get failsafe error and it disarms it self, to me seems like happymodel is not doing the best work on quality control
My analog 2024 mob 6 lost video feed in 2 packs. By far the worst experience I've had in FPV so far.
Find a way to fix it?
May as well not add music
I am curious, why do you say that? Also, which section? Just trying to figure out how to make better videos. Thank!
@@CG-RC 16:20 is rough. Sounds like white noise over a drum beat with a drunk person screaming xD
@@smika710 LOL, fair.
@@CG-RC 😂